Indholdsfortegnelse for June 2017 i Bon Appetit

Q: “The way the chef at The Dabney in Washington, D.C., uses a woodburning hearth to cook his dishes is so inspiring. Short of building one of my own, any ideas on how I can create these flavors with my grill?” —MARK TELLES, Houston A: “Try charring whole marinated vegetables. It balances out the acidity but still keeps the veg crisp.” —MICHAEL GALLINA, executive chef and co-owner, Vicia, St. Louis “Slowly cook mushrooms on the grill to give soups and rice dishes a little earthiness. A handful imparts so much depth and a straight-fromthe- fire essence to the entire bowl.” —CHRIS COLEMAN, chef, Stoke, Charlotte, NC “Spoon ricotta into a cast-iron pan, cover it with a lid, and ‘bake’ it on the grill over medium heat. The gooey cheese takes…

We can’t say a grill was on our hotel-amenity wish list—until we found Camp Comfort, a B&B just outside San Antonio with a summer camp vibe. The place offers two onsite fire pits and a specialorder barbecue kit that includes charcoals, filet mignons from local Alamo Meat Market, foil-wrapped potatoes, and the fixings for a Caesar salad. 5 Ways to Use Grilled Pineapple Slice and serve with grilled pork or fish Cut into chunks and toss with salt and lime juice for a smoky fruit salad Muddle and use as the base for a sweetsavory cocktail Dice and mix with chopped cilantro and chiles for salsa Purée and spoon over vanilla ice cream or good Greek yogurt…

I first came across the PK Grill maybe five years ago. I started seeing it at hardware stores, and I just bought one. Now it’s the one I tel l everyone to get: My general manager has one at his house, and so does my chef de cuisine. It’s compact and can be moved around easily. And it’ll last forever because it’s cast aluminum—it doesn’t rust. It’s a grill you can give to your grandkids when you die because it won’t ever die. John Lewis is the pitmasterowner of Lewis Barbecue in Charleston, SC. The PK Grill and Smoker, $370; pkgrills.com…

On a frigid weekend escape to Chicago, I found my new summer drink when a bartender at Scofflaw told me he was adding a bit of something called Chareau to my gin cocktail. Technically Chareau is a light, clear liqueur that can be sipped straight. But, I learned, it really excels as a bonus ingredient in cocktails. Pour an ounce or two into your vodka soda or margarita, and watch it transform it into something magically more refreshing. It’s like your cocktail took a spa trip, with hints of watermelon and cucumber. That clean flavor is backed up by the California liqueur’s main ingredient: aloe vera, something I knew I needed in my summer arsenal (I’m pale!), just not in my liquor cabinet. ($30 for 375 ml; astorwines.com)…

EVERY SUNDAY NIGHT, my wife and I take our son, Marlon, to the sushi spot down the block from our apartment. But he never gets sushi. Instead, he always asks the waitress for his usual: “Cranberry juice on the rocks and chicken katsu, please.” I can’t knock him—I tend to order the same thing: a tender, juicy chicken cutlet enrobed in a crisp golden jacket of panko breadcrumbs. A mound of nicely cooked sushi rice, bright green pickles, and a bowl of addictive Japanese-style barbecue sauce round out the meal. I have no idea how to replicate those pickles at home, but I’ve managed to nail the katsu. Here’s how I do it. I start with 1½ pounds chicken cutlets, each pounded to about ? inch thick. I season them…

COOK’S NOTES 1Looking for a more intense flavor? Try this with funky red miso. 2Get your smash on with other vegetables like sugar snaps, radishes, or small summer squash. 3This dressing will keep for weeks in the fridge; try it as a marinade for roasted fish or as a finisher for grilled vegetables. Green Beans and Cucumbers with Miso Dressing 4 SERVINGS 3 Persian cucumbers or ½ English hothouse cucumber Kosher salt 1 lb. green beans, trimmed 1 1½" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 1 serrano or Fresno chile, finely grated 1 garlic clove, finely grated ⅓ cup unseasoned rice vinegar ⅓ cup unseasoned rice vinegar ¼ cup white miso1 ¼ cup olive oil ½ tsp. toasted sesame oil Toasted sesame seeds and sliced scallions (for serving) Lightly smash cucumbers2…

I LIVE IN A SECOND-FLOOR APARTMENT. So when I’m grilling in the backyard, I want everything in one place. Instead of going into the kitchen all the time—I hate running up and down the stairs—I started using my Weber as a stovetop. A grill can do a lot more than just, well, grill: It boils water (for steaming mussels or blanching green beans) or simmers a sauce (think blistered tomatoes with basil or brown butter). And why stop there? Roast some mushrooms in a pan with butter for a steak. With the grill-as-stovetop, you can play around, and it’s all right in front of you. HOT TIPS Use Solid Cookware Grab some sturdy cast-iron skillets and black steel pans to wilt spinach or make a quick teriyaki glaze for fish…

RULE 1 - THIN IS IN In the time it takes for a rib eye to cook, rest, and slice, you can fire up thin-cut pork chops, eat, and binge season 5 of The Americans. So, on weeknights, look for thin cuts of meat that are ready to cook right out of the fridge and need just a few minutes on the grill. Some of our favorites: Thin-cut pork blade chops Skin less , boneless chicken thighs Skirt steak Pounded lamb chops Sausage Soy-Basted Pork Chops with Corn and Poblano Salad 4 SERVINGS Psst…you don’t need to presoak or preshuck corn before grilling it. Just put the whole ears on the grate and the husks and silk will slip right off afterward. You’re welcome. ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup…

MUSTARD (SEEDS,OIL) You want the pungent brown seeds, spicier black ones, and the intensely peppery oil derived from them. KASHMIRI CHILI POWDER Revered as much for its mild spice as the vermilion shade it lends. GARAM MASALA A warming spice mix that combines clove, nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, cardamom, pepper, green coriander, and/ or cumin. CHAAT MASALA Another blend, with cumin, coriander, dried ginger, black salt, pepper, amchoor (dried mango powder), asafetida, and more. Also tasty on fresh fruit! ASAFETIDA A boldly flavored powder from a plant root, it delivers savoriness and backs up other spices. Helps digestion, too.…

FROM P. 94 NO- SLIP SHRIMP Using two skewers to secure shrimp makes them easier to flip on the grill. Here’s how to set them up. —NIKITA RICHARDSON 1. Thread one 8" skewer (soaked if bamboo) through the thickest part of the shrimp; five to six large ones should fit on one skewer. 2. Take a second skewer and thread it near the tail ends of the already skewered shrimp. Spin the skewer to make sure none are loose. 3. Adjust shrimp so that there is a bit of space in between each one. (This allows heat to circulate properly and ensures even cooking.) FROM P. 48 IT’S THE PITS Come stone fruit season, I become a farmers’ market zealot, buying as many peaches, plums, apricots, and nectarines as I can carry. After…

Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you? Email us at rsvp@bonappetit.com* STAFF PICK “WHILE THE EDIBLE GARDEN AT OLMSTED IN BROOKLYN IS A BIT BEYOND MY ABILITIES, THE GRILLED SCALLOPS WITH CREAMED CORN IS DEFINITELY SOMETHING I WOULD LOVE TO TRY AT HOME.” —JULIA KRAMER, senior projects edi tor GRILLED SCALLOPS WITH CREAMED CORN 4 SERVINGS If you’re going to go the distance gathering all the spices for this multipurpose dry rub (and you should), go ahead and triple the batch. See the sidebar, page 12, for more ways to use it. 3 dried pasilla chiles (about 1 oz. total), coarsely chopped 2 Tbsp. dried thyme 1 Tbsp. dried oregano 1 Tbsp. ground coriander 1 Tbsp. ground fennel 2 tsp. chipotle chile powder 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper…

GRILL LIKE A PITMASTER SO MUCH SOFT SERVE RETHINKING A CAMPFIRE CLASSIC HOW TO PARK THE WIENERMOBILE WHAT TO DRINK RIGHT NOW This summer we’re grilling some more creative—and oh yes, colorful— sausages. Brooklyn’s Foster Sundry bolsters meaty sausages with Pantone-friendly ingredients like kale and beets. “Outside of work, I mostly eat vegetables, so I try to make the sausages produce-heavy,” says Cara Nicoletti, the shop’s butcher. It won’t be long before a place near you does the same.…

TRY… Della Staffa “Brioso Rosato” Umbria, $32 AND… Cellario Barbera Piemonte, $18 OR… Furlani Sur Lie Rosso Trentino, $30 Red wines are not all winter sweaters—you don’t have to pack them up just because it’s summer. Sparkling reds are worth flirting with this time of year, and not just Lambrusco, which is already known to hold court around the grill. Well-chilled sparklers of Sangiovese, Barbera, and Colorino (my favorite sparkling reds come from Italy) go down easy with bright, poppy notes of cherry and cranberry but are dry enough to complement any meat you’re throwing on the grill. Less sweet than the sparkling reds of the ’70s that gave the genre a bad name (see sidebar, right), these wines are the beverage equivalent of running barefoot across the beach on…

The whole steamed artichoke is the pearl necklace of vegetables: simple yet elegant, in a Martha Stewart’s Entertaining kind of way. And restaurants are reviving the sleeper classic, offering artichoke in all its spiny glory with a rich sauce—like shrimp mayo at Mr. Donahue’s in NYC or mustardy vinaigrette at June’s All Day in Austin— for dipping alongside. We’re getting choked up just thinking about it. (Sorry.)…

Summer Squash and Basil Pasta Heat ¼ cup olive oil in a large skillet over medium. Cook 8 thinly sliced garlic cloves, stirring occasionally, until very lightly browned around edges, about 4 minutes. Add 2 lb. assorted summer squashes and zucchini, quartered lengthwise, sliced; season with salt. Cook, tossing occasionally, until squashes begin to break down and get jammy (they may start to stick to the skillet a bit, which means you are there!),12–15 minutes. Add 1 tsp. Aleppostyle pepper or ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes and toss to incorporate. Meanwhile, cook 12 oz. paccheri, ziti, or other large tube pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until very al dente. Transfer pasta to skillet with a slotted spoon; add ½ cup pasta cooking liquid. Cook…

COOK’S NOTES 1Mix it up! Smaller pieces will fall apart, while larger chunks keep their shape and provide texture. 2A few dashes of soy help that skin take on more color and add savoriness. 3All those stewy leftovers make for an excellent pasta sauce. Baked Chicken with Tomatoes and Olives 4 SERVINGS 9 garlic cloves, divided 1 tsp. Aleppo-style pepper or ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1 tsp. soy sauce 4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling 1 3.–4-lb. chicken, quartered Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 lb. tomatoes of all sizes, halved,1 quartered if large 3 sprigs thyme ⅓ cup Castelvetrano or Picholine olives, pitted 1 baguette, halved lengthwise Place a rack in top third of oven; preheat to 450¡. Finely grate 1 garlic clove into…

CUT TING BOARD AND KNIFE For letting meat rest, or tasks like slicing the kernels off a corncob. Paper towels or a kitchen towel, too. SEASONING KIT Black pepper, flaky sea salt, maybe some chile flakes. OLIVE O I L For drizzling veg before or after throwing them on the grill. TONGS AND SPATULA Long tongs are great for grilling, since they keep your hands away from the fire. Don’t forget your fish spatula if you’re cooking seafood. TRASH Take the whole can, or at least a garbage bag or a big bowl. Do you really want to carry that nest of burned corn husks back inside? Didn’t think so.…

Afternoon Siesta Combine ¾ oz. Campari, ¾ oz. tequila blanco, ¾ oz. fresh lime juice, and ½ oz. agave nectar in an ice-filled cocktail shaker. Cover and shake vigorously until the outside of shaker is very cold, about 20 seconds. Strain into a pint glass and top with 8 oz. chilled American IPA. Garnish with a lime wheel. Makes 1 Top Banana Fill a pint glass partway with ice. Add ¾ oz. fresh lime juice, ¾ oz. crème de banana (preferably Giffard), and 8 oz. chilled lager. Stir gently to combine. Garnish with a lime wedge. Makes 1 Chile-Salt Michelada Mix 1 Tbsp. kosher salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper on a small plate. Moisten the rim of a pint glass and press into chile salt to lightly coat.…

FISH Transform it into a marinade by whisking the spice into citrus juice and olive oil. REFRIED BEANS The chiles in the rub and lime zest liven up a pot of beans— a staff meal favorite. SALAD DRESSING Whisk a pinch of the smoky blend into buttermilk dressing for a ranch-inspired effect. PASTA TOPPING Mix it into coarse breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan to top mac and cheese.…

“Well, why not?” That’s what chef Carrie Blease says when I ask her how whole grilled pineapple ended up on the menu at Lord Stanley, the veggie-centric San Francisco restaurant she runs with her husband and co-chef Rupert Blease. Once they got their hands on a Big Green Egg— the ceramic smoker-grill combo with a cult following among chefs and weekend warriors alike—the pair went crazy experimenting. “We would light it in the morning, when the fruit and veg order came in, and we couldn’t not try putting things on there,” Rupert recalls. Not everything (e.g., oranges) was a hit, but the pineapple stuck. “It turned out to be really versatile. It’s so warm tasting—you can use it for savory or sweet, hot or cold,” he says. After more than…

It seems like several new restaurants have seized an eternal truth: Tacos are meant to be eaten under blue skies with the sun shining on your face. From the palm tree–lined patio at Salazar in L.A. to the sunny setup at Valentina’s Tex-Mex BBQ taco truck in Austin, this year saw a surge in scenic spots for devouring your tacos al pastor. Just like that feeling you get when juicy carnitas spills onto your hands, eating tacos outdoors connects us to a primal desire to be in nature. Or at least a shaded patio with cold beers. Mando Rayo is the author of Tacos of Texas. He ate approximately 104 tacos outside last year. Three New Places to Eat Tacos Alfresco Salazar Los Angeles A year-round patio for eating classics…

ECIPES TIPS MENU IDEAS TRY THESE COMBOS COCONUT-LIME SHRIMP Rice stick noodles + Shrimp + Watercress + Cucumber + Chives + Cilantro + Peanuts + Chile + Coconut-Lime Dressing* SPICY STEAK Ramen noodles + Steak + Napa cabbage + Kohlrabi + Scallions + Cilantro + Cashews + Sichuan peppercorns + Sesame-Ginger Dressing VEG LOVERS’ SOBA Soba noodles + Tofu + Radishes + Sugar snap peas + Pea shoots + Scallions + Nori + Horseradish + Miso-Mustard Dressing* GARLICKY CHICKEN Udon noodles + Chicken + Celery + Mung bean sprouts + Daikon + Scallions + Sesame seeds + Chili oil + Garlicky Peanut Dressing* BUILD A COLD NOODLE SALAD Choose one (or more!) from each category and combine together in a large bowl 1—Noodles Cook in a large saucepan of boiling…

COOK’S NOTES 1Daikon: overlooked and underrated. Keep it tightly wrapped in the fridge and just slice off some as you need it. 2Salmon (unlike most fish) tastes great cold the next day, so I often cook extra. 3Store any extra rice uncovered in the fridge, which keeps the grains separate and makes for super-crispy fried rice. Salmon with Hot Sauce Vinaigrette and Pickled Veg 4 SERVINGS 4 5–6-oz. skin-on, boneless salmon fillets Kosher salt 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more for salmon 8 oz. daikon1, red radishes, carrots, and/or cucumbers, very thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. seasoned rice vinegar 3 Tbsp. mild hot sauce (such as Cholula) 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice Cooked rice (for serving) 1 cup cilantro leaves with tender stems ¼ cup sliced chives Preheat oven to 250¡.…

COOK’S NOTES 1Any stone fruit will work, but larger ones should be sliced. Canned pears or sour cherries are dynamite in this. 2Pricking the rolled-out pastry with a fork to control its shape during baking is called docking. 3Even if the outside of the crust looks done, dropping the oven’s temp ensures the middle will cook through. Apricot and Almond Galette SERVINGS . cup almonds, preferably blanched ⅓ cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling 1 large egg 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature . tsp. almond extract (optional) . tsp. vanilla extract Pinch of kosher salt 1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, plus more for surface 1 package frozen puff pastry, preferably all-butter, thawed 12 apricots (about 1. lb.), halved, pitted, or other stone fruit, quartered if large1 Place a rack in…

Throughout all of Baja, it’s the smaller, more boutique-y places that offer a better experience than those allinclusive resorts. No matter where you are in your journey, there’s a great spot to hang all day: Valle de Guadalupe You’ve probably seen Encuentro online, with its eco-conscious cabins perched high up in the hills of wine country. It’s basically luxury camping, though the chic mountaintop pool, wild coyotes, and insane views make up for the low frills. Todos Santos Austin hotel hero Liz Lambert just opened her first international project, Hotel San Cristóbal. It’s like a high-design, Mexican version of Melrose Place, with posh suites that surround a scene-y pool, a private beach, and a swank bar and restaurant that give you little reason to leave the premises. (If you can’t…

CLEAN THE GRILL WITH I T Scrunched-up foil makes a good backup grill brush. (See Prep School, page 110.) WRAP YOUR VEG I N I T Foil packets are a hands-off method for cooking veg (tossed in olive oil and salt) like potatoes, carrots, small eggplants, and beets, which will partially steam as they cook, keeping them soft and unburned. MAKE AN INSTANT PREP SURFACE Park food on it before or after cooking. Don’t Go to Bed Wi thout Cleaning Up No weeknight griller wants to come home to a dirty grill. After cooking, turn up the heat for 5–10 minutes to carbonize everything, then clean the grates with a wire brush or balled-up foil.…

Roasted Eggplant and Crispy Kale with Yogurt 4 SERVINGS Roasting the eggplants at a high heat will make the flesh very tender while making the skin a little crispy. 2 medium Italian eggplants (about 1. lb. total), quartered lengthwise, cut crosswise into 1" pieces . cup vegetable oil Kosher salt 1 tsp. dried mango powder (amchoor; optional) . tsp. ground cumin 6 Tuscan kale leaves, ribs and stems removed, leaves coarsely torn 1 medium Persian cucumber 1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice 1 garlic clove, finely grated 2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved Olive oil (for drizzling) Preheat oven to 450°. Toss eggplants with vegetable oil on a rimmed baking sheet; season with salt. Roast, tossing halfway through, until eggplants are charred in spots and tender,…

1 THE DABNEY Washington, D.C . Mid-Atlantic cooking gets its due thanks to chef Jeremiah Langhorne, who even grills a salad (of root vegetables) in a hand-built hearth. 2 REYNARD Brooklyn The raging heat from a Grillworks setup fuels Sean Rembold’s ingredientfocused plates at the Wythe Hotel. 3 PUBLIC HOUSE Nashville At the backyard bar of Urban Cowboy B&B, Tom Bayless dries herbs, warms olives, and perfectly browns chicken over coals— with no gas or electric appliances in sight. 4 DEAT H & TAXES Raleigh,NC Ashley Christensen’s ode to wood fire: Oysters, sweet potatoes, eggs, greens, and more all get tinged with oak smoke from the custombuilt grill. 5 CAMINO Oakland,CA A member of the Original Guard of livefire fanatics, Russell Moore has been cooking in his enormous open hearth…

TRAVEL PLANNER R.S.V.P. pp. 10–14 OLMSTED 659 Vanderbilt Ave., Brooklyn; 718-552-2610; olmstednyc.com THYME CAFE AND MARKET 1630 Ocean Park Blvd., Santa Monica, CA; 310-399- 8800; thymecafeandmarket.com ZAYTINYA 701 Ninth St. NW, Washington, D.C.; 202-638-0800; zaytinya.com STARTERS pp. 17–32 BASILISK 820 NE 27th Ave., Portland, OR; 503-234-7151; basiliskpdx.com CAMP COMFORT 601 Water St., Comfort, TX; 830-995-2356; camp-comfort.com COW TIPPING CREAMERY 4715 S. Lamar Blvd. Sunset Valley, TX; 512-904-0033; cowtippingcreamery.com EMMER & RYE 51 Rainey St., Suite 110; Austin; 512-366-5530; emmerandrye.com FOSTER SUNDRY 215 Knickerbocker Ave., Brooklyn; 718-569-8426; fostersundry.com FRESA’S 915 N. Lamar Blvd., Austin; 512-428-5077; fresaschicken.com GREEN DOT STABLES 2200 W. Lafayette Blvd., Detroit; 313-962-5588; greendotstables.com JUAN LUIS 1503 King St., Charleston, SC; 843-323-9131; workshopcharleston.com JUNE’S ALL DAY 1722 S. Congress Ave., Austin; 512-416-1722; junesallday.com LEWIS BARBECUE 464 N. Nassau St.,…

When it comes to shortcomings in the kitchen, it’s not that David Sedaris is incapable, it’s just that he doesn’t care. “When I cook something, I want to put it in the oven, and I want to take a bath,” explains the best-selling author and humorist. “Then I want to get out of the bathtub 25 minutes later, and I want it to be ready. I don’t want to stir anything.” Fortunately, Sedaris—whose new book, Theft by Finding, is a collection of his hilariously scattershot diary entries from 1977 to 2002—knows an expert: his longtime partner, Hugh Hamrick. Hamrick likes to grill in the kitchen fireplace of their home in West Sussex, England, where his specialties range from côte de boeuf to fish kebabs. And what fish makes for the…