Indholdsfortegnelse for February 2018 i Bon Appetit

a ADAPTOGENS Herbal ingredients (such as maca, ashwagandha, and rhodiola rosea) that purportedly help your body bounce back from stress and fatigue. You can down ’em in pill form or take them in your smoothie or coffee. Sun Potion and Moon Juice brands are the big names in the game. AYURVEDA The Cliffs Notes version: India’s holistic practice of natural healing that believes we become balanced when we’re mentally, physically, and spiritually at one with the universe. It deeply informs so many of today’s healthyish practices, from yoga to mindfulness to clean eating. Consider us 5,000 years late to the party. b BLISS BALLS Energy balls rebranded. BREATHWORK Altering your natural breathing patterns to achieve relaxation. It’s what you’re supposed to be doing during yoga when you’re wondering where the…

1–CUT DOWN TO SIZE Bring 3 Tbsp. kosher salt and 6 quarts water to a boil in a large pot. Slice 4 oz. guanciale, pancetta, or slab bacon into 1x¼" strips (they should be bite-size pieces). 2–WHISK AWAY Finely grate 2 oz. Parmesan and set aside one-quarter for later. Whisk remaining cheese, 4 large egg yolks, 2 large eggs, and lots of freshly ground pepper in a medium bowl until smooth. 3–ALL ABOUT THE CRISP Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium. Cook guanciale, stirring just until crisp, 7–10 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and pour off all but 3 Tbsp. fat. Set aside for now. 4–NOODLE AROUND Cook 1 lb. bucatini in pot of boiling water, stirring occasionally, 2 minutes shy of…

I’D NEVER THOUGHT much about cruise ships until last year, when I noticed that wellness had become a serious focus for an industry better known for all-you-can-eat buffets. As the editor of Bon Appétit’s sister brand Healthyish, I spend a lot of time thinking about the lifestyle these cruise lines promise—filled with vegan grain bowls and therapeutic massages—but embarrassingly little time actually living it. In other words: I’m stressed. And the idea of spending a week on a floating health spa started sounding pretty good. So last fall I boarded Oceania’s Riviera with my boyfriend, José, and about 1,200 other passengers for a Mediterranean “wellness tour”—the cruise line’s collaboration with the health-resort company Canyon Ranch. I decided to keep a journal along the way so I could remember what true…

Remember when all that talk of heart health made your daily Beaujolais seem virtuous? Then you obviously approve of the wellness trend hitting our favorite restaurants’ cocktail lists. Whether it’s a grass-green matcha colada or some turmeric-ginger–spiked rum, now we’re fighting inflammation and oxidation with every sip. If only they’d invent one with a built-in hangover cure. VICIA ST. LOUIS Vodka with orange and yogurt whey ALMA MINNEAPOLIS Carrot mimosa BOTANICA LOS ANGELES Gin, lime, and arugula LITTLE OCTOPUS NASHVILLE Fermented lime soda with tequila ROUGE TOMATE NYC Granola-infused rum with chia seeds P.Y.T. LOS ANGELES Gin, carrot, and kombucha TUSK PORTLAND, OR Vodka, beets, almond, and yogurt QUAINTRELLE PORTLAND, OR Gin, sea beans, and lemon oil QUIOTE CHICAGO Celery shrub with mezcal…

Why Is Everyone Jetting to Portugal? This seasoned traveler will make you want to book your ticket too “We stayed in the prettiest hotel, the São Lourenço do Barrocal, on a former olive-farming estate in Monsaraz. You can ride bikes and horses through the olive groves, and you can see a medieval castle high on a hilltop from your room’s window. Ride your bike to the top, tour the castle, and wander the cobblestone streets. Be sure to get an espresso and a little pastry at Casa Tial, a gourmet grocery store that also sells beautiful olive oils and sardines.” —JULIE O ’ROURKE, OWNER OF RUDY JUDE CLOTHING LINE, AS TOLD TO ALIZA ABARBANEL Retreats We’d Actually Go On If you thought wellness escapes were just nonstop yoga with 30…

THERE ARE FEW THINGS I’LL LEAVE MY SEAT FOR WHEN THE SUPER BOWL IS ON—this is an evening when couch space is guarded with one’s life. But a bowl of chili is one of them. Not just any chili, though. I’m talking about a monumental pot of deeply flavorful, perfectly spiced beef, ready to be piled generously with everything from Fritos to chopped red onion to sour cream to avocado. While I’m up, I’m assembling my bowl swiftly, grabbing a piece of cornbread and a healthy serving of hot honey butter, snagging another beer, spinning and juking to avoid hungry friends barreling toward the stovetop. The game might be on the TV, but as real Super Bowl party champions can attest, athletics matter in the trip to and from the…

all-day breakfast used to make me think of greasy diner hangover fare. But these days some of my favorite restaurants are redefining the most important meal of the day and serving it morning, noon, and night—with no under-salted, soggy home fries in sight. Take the Turkish eggs at L.A.’s airy market-café Botanica: two poached gems, olive-oil-toasted focaccia, and savory yogurt all buried under a cloud of lemony salad greens. I had it for breakfast and would’ve had it again for lunch. Or consider the arctic char tostada at sleek Mexican-inspired Atla in NYC, which tastes just as good with a smoky mezcal cocktail as a house-made coconut milk latte. Across the country, jammy eggs, thick-cut toast, and alt-grain waffles dot menus no matter the hour. This style of eating inspires…

By 9:04 a.m. I’m meeting over a bowl of chili-turmeric broth with oat-milk foam (yes, that’s a thing) at De Maria in New York’s Soho. Around us there are post-yoga friend dates and laptoppers and a few more two-tops over which hover word bubbles filled with “concept” and “brand.” Pretty much everyone stops to photograph their food on the colorful tabletops before taking a bite. By 10:30 a.m., I’m taking another meeting for a project with my food consultancy, this time at the light-filled breakfast-lunch-dinner spot L’estudio. I sip a matcha latte served in a ceramic cup that was made in the studio next door and nibble on a slice of zucchini-walnut bread. (I’m describing a real morning in my life, by the way— I couldn’t make this up.) Afterward,…

When I was growing up, molcajetes were just around. They’re these heavy, imposing tools made of volcanic rock, and I thought, Oh, grandmas use those, but I can’t. Then I met my partner, Alec Morrison, and we spent a month together in the Yucatan. Seeing women work their molcajetes so skillfully fascinated me. They’ve been in continuous use across Mesoamerican cultures for thousands of years—using them is a bit of an art form. I have a small one that I bought on that trip, and then I added four more over time. I use my larger ones for making salsa and my smaller ones for making chili paste or cracking spices. The rough texture releases ingredients’ oils, which is why blender salsa will never taste as good as if it…

Between sports practices and study groups, my two teenage daughters are now busier than their parents, putting the premium for quick-to-make, easy-to-love dinners at an all-time high. That’s how this Roast Chicken and Carrots with Mustard and Thyme became one of our MVPs. Place a rack in the highest position in oven; preheat to 450°. Place ¾ cup panko in a small bowl. Mash 4 Tbsp. room-temperature unsalted butter, ¼ cup Dijon mustard, and 2 Tbsp. thyme leaves in another small bowl with a fork. Pat 8 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs dry and place on a rimmed baking sheet; season both sides with salt and pepper. Smear butter mixture all over skin side of thighs and, working with 1 piece at a time, firmly press chicken, skin side down, into…

MY KIDS DON’T THINK I’M A VERY GOOD COOK. I might be a food editor, but they question the judgment and skills of anyone who tries to serve them anything other than pasta with butter and cheese. Rather than turn mealtimes into battlegrounds, I’ve adopted a much more effective tactic: subterfuge. I make small healthyish tweaks to their favorite dishes and hope that they’ll be too hungry to notice. I slip in whole wheat pasta, roast potato “fries,” and hide vegetables inside their penne. In those moments when I find myself coaxing peas into tubular pasta, I long for a dish we could all just agree on and eat as a family. I think I may have found just that. Start by cooking 1 lb. medium shells in boiling salted water…

Before working at a food magazine or a restaurant, I gained a deep love of food from my family. As a kid I was introduced to the bright flavors of my parents’ home country of Iran. I remember watching my mother steep saffron until the water turned the color of the sun or how she would put a mound of herbs on the table for us to nibble on. But it wasn’t until the last five years that I reconnected with my culinary roots in earnest. I’ve deepened my knowledge of the flavors I grew up with through fellow cooks and travel abroad. And though I love what might be referred to as “traditional” Middle Eastern foods, I’ve never wanted to replicate those dishes. Instead I’ve used them to cultivate…

TRAVEL PLANNER STARTERS pp. 15–23 ABCV 38 E. 19th St., NYC; 212-475-5829; abchome.com/dine/abcv ALMA 528 University Ave. SE, Minneapolis; 612-379-4909; almampls.com BOTANICA 1620 Silver Lake Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-522-6106; botanicarestaurant.com GÜERO 200 NE 28th Ave., Portland, OR; 503-887-9258; gueropdx.com LITTLE OCTOPUS 505 12th Ave. S., Nashville; 615-454-3946; littleoctopusnashville.com P.Y.T. 400 S. Main St., Los Angeles; 213-687-7015; pytlosangeles.com QUAINTRELLE 3936 N. Mississippi Ave., Portland, OR; 503-200-5787; quaintrelle.co QUIOTE 2456 N. California Ave., Chicago; 312-878-8571; quiotechicago.com ROUGE TOMATE 126 W. 18th St., NYC; 646-395-3978; rougetomatechelsea.com SÃO LOURENÇO DO BARROCAL 7200-177 Mousaraz, Portugal; +351-266-247-140; barrocal.pt TUSK 2448 E. Burnside St., Portland, OR; 503-894-8082; tuskpdx.com VICIA 4260 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis; 314-553-9239; viciarestaurant.com CRUISE GUIDE: HEALTHYISH EDITION pp. 42–50 CANYON RANCH SPA CLUB For information, go to canyonranch.com CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE For information,…