Indholdsfortegnelse for March 2018 i Bon Appetit

We’re living in a golden age of regional pizza. Distinct favorites are breaking out of their local confines— now you can get lacy-edged Detroit pies in Nashville, charred New Haven look-alikes in Denver, and autentico Roman pies in Chicago. It’s glorious— and overwhelming. So we’ve cataloged a cross section of the current pizza universe and suggested standout examples all over the country for you to do some...research. NEW HAVEN APIZZA ▪The Style Pilgrims once had to trek to Sally’s or Frank Pepe’s in Connecticut for coal-fired char and chewy oblong pies. No longer. The gospel of the thin, dry pizza continues to spread, and with it, the vernacular apizza, a vestige of Neapolitan dialect. ▪Mootz or No Mootz? Mozzarella is a topping to be requested. ▪Hot Spot White Pie, Denver…

Salted Caramel– Chocolate Tart 8 SERVINGS You can use a 9" or 10" tart pan, but the layers will be thinner in the larger pan. We also found that Morton kosher salt won’t dissolve completely in the caramel filling, so use Diamond Crystal for the best results. CRUST ⅓ cup unsweetened cocoa powder2 Tbsp. sugar½ tsp. Diamond Crystal kosher salt1⅔ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for surface¾ cup (1½ sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces1 large egg yolk3 Tbsp. chilled milk or water FILLING 1½ cups sugar⅛ tsp. cream of tartar6 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces⅓ cup heavy cream1 tsp. Diamond Crystal kosher salt GANACHE 4 oz. semisweet chocolate (do not go above 70% cacao), finely chopped½ cup heavy cream2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces Flaky…

Miso Pesto with Ramen Noodles 2 SERVINGS 4 cups baby spinach2 cups cilantro leaves with tender stems1 Tbsp. white miso1 garlic clove½ cup grapeseed or sunflower oil1 tsp. toasted sesame oil1 tsp. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt2 5-oz. packages fresh ramen noodles1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces Toasted sesame seeds (for serving) Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Meanwhile, purée spinach, cilantro, miso, garlic, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, and lemon juice in a blender until mixture is smooth and very green. Season with salt and pour pesto into a medium bowl. Cook noodles according to package directions. Drain and add to bowl with pesto. Add butter and toss until butter is melted and noodles are coated in sauce. Divide noodles among bowls and top with…

1 A New Apron in Town I’m not a butcher, and I’m tired of wearing aprons that make me look like one. For years it felt like every “cool” apron was made with thick fabrics and leather straps and cut with linebackers’ proportions in mind. But now labels are crafting a style that’s almost more dress than apron, and as someone who spends her days working in the BA Test Kitchen, it couldn’t have happened quickly enough. Sometimes called Japanese-style, they’re made of a soft, flowy fabric (typically linen) and cut in a cross-back pattern to facilitate freedom of movement. Lest you think it’s the kitchen equivalent of a Snuggie, though, it’s clean and stylish enough that people may think it’s actually part of your outfit (really, it happens to…

“Being half black and half Iranian, I’d like to think that I hit the cultural food jackpot.” What’s a typical Shahidi family meal? “Being half black and half Iranian, I’d like to think that I hit the cultural food jackpot. Growing up we ate a lot of chicken kebab and my baba— which means dad in Farsi— always kept a vegetable garden, so we also ate a lot of fresh salads. There’s no such thing as a bad meal in our house.” What’s in the garden? “Basil, carrots, rosemary, mint, snap peas, and avocado. One time we even grew corn! But tomatoes are definitely our biggest crop. We used to grow so many that I would show up to playdates with bags of them for my friends’ parents.” You must…

Almond and Raisin Agrodolce Place ¼ cup coarsely chopped golden raisins in a small bowl and pour ¼ cup white wine vinegar over (it should cover raisins completely). Let sit, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes so raisins can soften. Meanwhile, combine ⅓cup extra-virgin olive oil and ¼ cup coarsely chopped skin-on almonds in a small skillet. Set over medium hea and cook, stirring occasionally, until flesh is golden brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and let cool. Mix raisins, 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced, rinsed, patted dry, ½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest, and ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes into almonds; season with kosher salt. Let sit 10 minutes. Toss in ½ cup parsley leaves with tender stems just before serving. DO AHEAD: Agrodolce (without…

“There’s something very calming and nourishing about cooking for one. It’s like a little gift to yourself.”—ANDY BARAGHANI Spicy Creamy Chickpeas with Runny Eggs and Prosciutto 2 SERVINGS 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced1 sprig rosemary (optional)1 15-oz. can chickpeas, rinsed1 Tbsp. tomato paste1 tsp. sweet smoked paprika1 cup heavy cream Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper2 large eggs4 thin slices of prosciutto Flaky sea salt (optional) Flatbread (for serving) Heat oil in a medium skillet over medium. Cook garlic and rosemary (if using), tossing, until garlic is golden brown and rosemary crisps up slightly but isn’t browned, about 30 seconds for rosemary and 2 minutes for garlic. Transfer rosemary to a plate. Add chickpeas, tomato paste, and paprika to skillet and cook, stirring often, until coated, about…

FROM P. 68 LOBSTER LESSONS Removing lobster meat from the tail shell is easier than it sounds and requires no special tools. —CLAIRE SAFFITZ 1. Place tail between your palms, interlacing fingers around the rounded side of the shell with the underside facing you. 2. Starting at the larger end of the tail, squeeze palms together until you feel the shell crack; repeat, working your way to the other end. 3. Rest tail on cutting board, inside facing you. Grip inner edges of shell with thumbs and open tail like a book. Gently pull out the meat. FROM P. 63 KEY MOMENT: S C O R I N G BOLOGNA Our take on a beloved Southern sandwich doesn’t call for much more than rye bread, iceberg lettuce, and slices of golden bologna. Set…

It used to be all about the swoosh—a swipe of sauce on a plate that lent restaurant dishes a dramatic look. But now you’ve probably noticed chefs’ newest method for presenting a photo-ready finish: flavored dusts blanketing the plate, from spirulina showered across salads to pulverized dried mint shrouding desserts. We talked to the pros about how you can make it snow at home. The Technique For small patches of color, simply use your thumb and forefinger to get precise sprinkles. For a full coat? Gently tap a fine-mesh sieve as you move around the plate. The Powders EFFORTLESS Use naturally powdery ingredients like nutritional yeast (great on charred veggies), bee pollen (try it on smoothie bowls and desserts), or, of course, the classics: powdered sugar and cocoa powder. Spice…

IT’S SUNNY SOMEWHERE And right now that somewhere is Hello, Sailor, the bright new spot in Cornelius, NC, from the owners of Kindred. The aesthetic is Southern fish camp (1960s family fish restaurants) meets midcentury-modern Palm Springs, with rattan chairs, pale stone walls, and a cacti motif. “I thought it would be fun to have it feel like a year-round vacation from your day,” says co-owner Katy Kindred. We couldn’t agree more. —MERYL ROTHSTEIN How to Make Any Salad Awesome Whoever called this month dreary (oh, was that us?) clearly isn’t using pink radicchio (a.k.a. radicchio la rosa del veneto). It’s brightening up the menu at NYC’s Flora Bar and can turn your own salads into showstoppers too. Find it at specialty grocers like Eataly or farmers’ markets. —M.R. A…

Hot Honey Chicken with Fried Bread and Bitter Greens 2 SERVINGS 1 garlic clove, finely grated2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided4 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs Kosher salt¼ cup honey1 small red chile, thinly sliced into rounds2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil2 ½"-thick slices of bread2 small endive, leaves separated Preheat oven to 450°. Mix garlic and 1 Tbsp. lemon juice in a medium bowl to combine. Pat chicken thighs dry with paper towels and place in bowl. Season with salt and toss to coat. Let chicken marinate at room temperature at least 20 minutes and up to 1 hour. Meanwhile, bring honey and chile to a bare simmer in a small skillet over medium-low. Let hot honey cool. Drizzle oil into a large heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, and place chicken…

THE FACTS ACTIVE TIME 3 HR — TOTAL TIME 3 DAYS DIFFICULTY MODERATE Shopping and planning take some work, but no step requires advanced techniques. I HAVE MADE cassoulet more times than is advisable—first in culinary school, once with a friend for a dinner party, and at least half a dozen times in the BA Test Kitchen. The famed French peasant dish of white beans, silky duck confit, and rich ragout topped with a golden breadcrumb crust can take three days and nearly half a dozen pork products to make. It’s an occasion to break out the biggest pot you own, and I can’t think of another recipe that’s more fun to share with family and friends. Our classic version takes no shortcuts and requires a little planning, but every step…

Sesame Arctic Char Donabe 4 SERVINGS The base for this dish is dashi, a type of stock used in Japanese cooking made from kombu and bonito flakes (you can find both at Asian markets and in the Asian foods section of some grocery stores). Think of it as a faster, simpler, and cleaner-tasting fish stock. 2 5x4" pieces kombu6 oz. dried soba noodles2 tsp. toasted sesame oil, plus more for drizzling1 oz. bonito flakes (about 4 cups)1 bunch scallions½ cup mirin (sweet Japanese rice wine)2 Tbsp. soy sauce Kosher salt1 1-lb. skinless arctic char fillet2 small turnips, trimmed, scrubbed, thinly sliced1 small daikon, peeled, thinly sliced6 oz. enoki mushrooms, trimmed Toasted sesame seeds (for serving) Combine kombu and 4½ cups cold water in a medium saucepan. Let sit until kombu is…

Lamb Shoulder with Citrus-Fennel Salad 8 SERVINGS Lightly scoring the fat cap across the top of the roast allows salt and flavors to penetrate even if you can’t season it a day ahead. 1 5½–6-lb. lamb shoulder (not tied) Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper6 garlic cloves, finely grated, plus2 heads, halved crosswise2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes1 tsp. finely grated orange zest, plus one 3x1" strip zest2 Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary, plus more for serving 1 cup dry white wine 6–8 mixed small oranges (such as blood, mandarin, and navel), peeled, halved, sliced or torn into small sections1 large fennel bulb with fronds, thinly sliced2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Preheat oven to 300°. Using a sharp knife, score fat across the top of lamb shoulder to create…

TRAVEL PLANNER STARTERS pp. 11–18 BONCI 161 N. Sangamon St., Chicago; 312-243-4016; bonciusa.com ELSKE 1350 W. Randolph St., Chicago; 312-733-1314; elskerestaurant.com EMMY SQUARED For locations, go to emmysquaredbk.com FLORA BAR 945 Madison Ave., NYC; 646-558-5383; florabarnyc.com HELLO, SAILOR 20210 Henderson Rd., Cornelius, NC; 704-997-5365; hellosailornc.com HERE’S LOOKING AT YOU 3901 W. Sixth St., Los Angeles; hereslookingatyoula.com KINDRED 131 N. Main St., Davidson, NC; 980-231-5000; kindreddavidson.com MARTINA PIZZERIA 198 E. 11th St., NYC; 646-747-6635; martinapizzeria.com MELFI’S 721 King St., Charleston, SC; eatatmelfis.com O4W PIZZA 3117 Main St., Duluth, GA; 678-587-5420; o4wpizza.com WHITE PIE 1702 Humboldt St., Denver; 303-862-5323; whitepiedenver.com YOUNG JONI 165 13th Ave. NE, Minneapolis; 612-345-5719; youngjoni.com CITY GUIDES: TOKYO pp. 40–46 BAR MARTHA 1-22-23 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; +81-3-3441-5055; martha-records.com/martha FAMILYMART For locations, go to family.co.jp FUGLEN 1-16-11 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku; +81-3-3481-0884;…

John Cena isn’t the type to mince words. “I‘m the most boring food guy you’re ever going to talk to,” insists the 16-time WWE champion and star of next month’s raucous comedy Blockers. Case in point: Ask him what he had for breakfast. “This morning? Four scoops of protein and four glasses of skim milk.” Which, yeah, is pretty boring. But if you’re wondering how he maintains his chiseled 250-pound physique at age 40, well, there’s part of your answer. Get him talking about what he actually likes to drink, however, and Cena perks up. “I like my coffee strong as f*#%. I do a very intense dark roast, about six ounces, and then put two to three shots of espresso on top of it.” And he likes his nightly…