Indholdsfortegnelse for April 2018 i Bon Appetit

When Rogers Gray Italian Country Cookbook was published in 1995, it launched a food moment, the ripples of which are being felt to this day. The seductively elemental Italian recipes from Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray—untrained chefs who started London’s River Cafe 30 years ago—sent me and countless others scrambling for ingredients like Tuscan kale and salt-packed anchovies. Many a dinner party was built around their pumpkin risotto, and many were foiled by a failed Chocolate Nemesis cake. While the dishes at the fabled restaurant were flawless, the published recipes were…rather loosey-goosey. This stunningly designed edition corrects that, as the recipes have been tested and updated. Like the restaurant, they feel as vital as ever.…

You Can Now Get Real-Deal Pastrami You’d think you could find anything in Vegas, but until recently a sandwich from the deli gods wasn’t one of them. That’s why the arrival of L.A.’s Canter’s Deli is music to our bellies. There are two new locations to choose from, and they’re doing something they don’t even do at the original: hand-slicing the meats, which they import weekly from a secret Brooklyn supplier. —NIKITA RICHARDSON A BARTENDER’S GUIDE TO GETTING OFF THE STRIP Any local will tell you: No visit is complete without venturing off the Strip. Mariena Mercer Boarini, who runs the cocktail program at The Cosmopolitan, gives us her itinerary. —ASHLEY MASON Eat: Paid in Full “You don’t expect it to have so much character because it’s in a strip…

Editor in Chief, Bon Appétit REMEMBER BACK IN COLLEGE, when you were trying to write a paper, and every ten minutes you’d get up and take a peek inside your fridge to just, you know, see what was going on in there? Well, as editors at Bon Appétit, we do the same thing. Except our fridge is called the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen. And I can’t think of a better place to not get my work done. Of course, plenty of people in the kitchen do actual work—namely, the brand’s team of food editors, photographers, and stylists. But for folks like me, a sit-in-front-of-your-computer-all-day editor, dipping into the 650-square-foot space on the 35th floor of the World Trade Center is never not a treat. On any given afternoon, I’ll spot…

H-Town Strong BY SOME MEASURES, Houston is now America’s most diverse city—which also makes it one of the country’s most exciting places to eat. Here, Viet-Cajun crawfish and pho have clinched a place in the modern culinary canon alongside Tex-Mex and barbecue; even better, you can conquer it all in a long weekend. And as the city rebuilds itself in the aftermath of Hurricane Harvey, the restaurant scene continues to become more and more vibrant. Chefs and bartenders are crafting delicious cocktails, getting us excited about brunch (spaghetti sandwich!), and shucking plump Gulf oysters. So dig in to our favorites—and don’t forget to pack your stretchy pants. Hang with the Chefs How do you pick out the industry folks at Nancy’s Hustle, a buzzy new neighborhood bistro in East Downtown?…

WE DON’T COOK LIKE WE USED TO. Our pantries, our techniques, and our cravings take us on new culinary adventures. It’s hard to pin down the exact moment we noticed things had changed. Was it the first time we saw kimchi in the refrigerator case of a mainstream supermarket? We knew something was up when whole grains were making guest appearances in our pancakes, meaty main courses were made solely out of vegetables, and tahini showed up in our desserts. Suddenly everyone was brown butter–basting steaks like it was a perfectly normal weeknight-dinner thing to do. We started throwing seedy sprinkles onto salads and making extra cooked grains to use in quick stir-fries, soups, and bowls. We went from putting an egg on it to putting toast under it. Our…

Makes 1 Spritz 101 Combine 2 oz. liqueur and 3 oz. sparkling wine in an ice-filled glass. + Top with a splash of soda and stir gently to combine. + Garnish optional but highly recommended. a Cynar Spritz Cynar and Prosecco + Grapefruit soda + 2x1" strip of grapefruit zest b Spiced Cherry Spritz Amaro and Lambrusco + Cherry soda + Maraschino cherry c Pimm’s Spritz Pimm’s No. 1 and Prosecco + Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray soda + Sprig of celery leaves d d Campari Spritz Campari and sparkling rosé + Lemon soda + Lemon wheel e Aperol Spritz Aperol and Prosecco + Club soda + 3 green olives f Ginger Spritz Lillet and cava + Ginger beer + Thin slice fresh ginger…

4 servings The Smash Gently smash 5 mini seedless or Persian cucumbers or 1 small English hothouse cucumber with a rolling pin or the back of a heavy knife just to break open. Tear into irregular 2" pieces and place in a medium bowl; season lightly with salt. Let sit at least 5 minutes and up to 1 hour. Drain cucumbers; discard liquid. a Za’atar + Feta Cook 2 lightly crushed garlic cloves and ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, turning garlic once, until golden brown 5–7 minutes. Add 2 Tbsp. za’atar or 1 Tbsp. dried mint and 1 Tbsp. sesame seeds and ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes and remove from heat. Let cool until just warm, then stir in 2 Tbsp. fresh…

2–4 servings a Cauliflower Rice Coarsely chop 1 small or ½ large head of cauliflower. Working in 2 batches, pulse in a food processor until about the size of a grain of rice. Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Cook half of cauliflower, tossing often, until golden in spots and crisp-tender, about 3 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a medium bowl. Wipe out skillet and repeat with remaining cauliflower and another 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil. Let cool slightly. b Cauliflower Steaks Preheat oven to 400°. Remove the toughest outer leaves from 1 medium head of cauliflower (leave tender ones) and trim stem. Rest cauliflower on stem and cut in half from top to bottom, creating 2 lobes with stem attached.…

2 servings 1 1¾"-thick bone-in rib eye (about 1½ lb.)Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper2 tsp. vegetable oil3 Tbsp. unsalted butter2 sprigs rosemary2 garlic cloves, crushedFlaky sea salt 1. Season steak generously with kosher salt and pepper and let sit at room temperature 1 hour. 2. Heat a dry large skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high, then add oil. As soon as oil is smoking, cook steak, turning every 2 minutes or so, until a deep brown crust forms and the internal temperature is a few degrees below your favored doneness (120°–125° for medium-rare), 8–10 minutes. 3. Add butter, rosemary, and garlic to skillet, tilt pan toward you so that butter pools on one side, and use a large spoon to continually baste steak with butter. Continue until butter is no…

4 servings 1 large egg½ cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)½ tsp. ground cumin¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes¼ tsp. ground turmeric¼ cup finely chopped parsley, plus 1 cup parsley leaves with tender stems2 Tbsp. plus ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil1½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more2 garlic cloves, divided1 lb. ground lamb2 cups mint leaves3 Tbsp. golden raisins Plain whole-milk Greek yogurt (for serving) 1. Place a rack in upper third of oven; preheat to 425°. Combine egg, panko, cumin, red pepper flakes, turmeric, finely chopped parsley, 2 Tbsp. oil, and 1½ tsp. salt in a large bowl. Finely grate 1 garlic clove into bowl. Add lamb and mix with your hands until evenly distributed. 2. Gently roll lamb mixture into 1½"-diameter balls (about the size of a golf ball; you should…

4 servings ¾ cup whole wheat flour½ cup all-purpose flour2 Tbsp. sugar1 tsp. baking powder1 tsp. baking soda1 tsp. kosher salt1 large egg1½ cups buttermilk2 cups mixed cooked whole grains (such as barley, farro, rye, spelt, kamut, and/or quinoa)Melted unsalted butter (for pan)Room-temperature butter, fresh blackberries, and pure maple syrup (for serving) 1. Whisk whole wheat and all-purpose flours, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Whisk egg and buttermilk in a medium bowl just to incorporate. Using a few swift strokes, whisk egg mixture into dry ingredients just to combine. Stir grains into batter (you can pulse the grains in a food processor first if you prefer them in smaller pieces). 2. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Lightly brush with butter. Add half…

5 Things to Eat, Drink & Read This Month Lately bakeries seem less like pit stops—a place to grab a scone on the way to the office—and more like destinations. People are traveling across town to try the crazy matcha croissants that are taking over the internet, or the culty morning buns that’ll make you forget you decided to go gluten-free. So why should you hit up a new-school bakery right now? Keep reading. We’ve Totally Taken the Insta-bait If you ’gram it, they will come. At least that seems to be the philosophy behind the surge in ultraphotogenic sweets you’re seeing, from jet-black doughnuts to Technicolor croissants. Just because a rainbow bagel photographs well doesn’t mean we want to eat it, but when the sweets taste as good as…

A Baker’s Year North Carolina baker Tara Jensen achieved Instagram fame first for her artful pie crusts and masterful breads, then for her raw post-breakup posts. This fearlessly honest book is part diary, part artisanal-baking manual. In short, it’s 2018 gold. Fresh India British writer Meera Sodha’s debut cookbook, Made in India, was an instant classic. Her vegetarian sequel is just as dog-earable, with recipes like Sri Lankan dal with coconut and lime kale and shredded brussels sprout thoran. Superiority Burger Cookbook BA columnist Brooks Headley not only runs the best vegetarian burger joint in NYC, his punk ethos and deadpan humor make for some of the best cookbook reading of all time. Burnt broccoli salad forever! Japan: The Cookbook An essential and approachable guide to the country’s cooking by…

RECIPES TIPS MENU IDEAS A BA KITCHEN PRIMER Iron Works Some of my most memorable meals began in my Lodge cast-iron skillet. The first roast chicken I ever mastered. Tall cinnamon rolls slick with icing. The giant kimchi pancakes I fried for a New Year’s Eve party. I’m far from the only obsessive around; our test kitchen manager Brad Leone will happily engage in an hour-long debate on the merits of seasoning your pan with flaxseed oil versus lard (he’s Team Flaxseed). Chefs love cast iron’s durability and its ability to evenly retain heat. And a new wave of makers are fueling the revival with truly beautiful skillets, like the ones on page 30. But we admit cast iron comes with questions (and maybe a touch of anxiety): How do…

MY GOAL FOR ENTERTAINING FRIENDS AND FAMILY—whether at home or the restaurant—is for everyone around me to feel comfortable and free to be themselves. Building the foundation for a happy and healthy life starts with our surroundings, and how we live within them. A clean space is a happy space. I love the idea of entertaining at home, but we find ourselves more often hosting meals at Jack’s Wife Freda. We enjoy restaurants, the comforting combination of good food and good people. Breaking bread, drinking, and laughing—that’s the center of life. But the comforts of the restaurants aren’t limited to food: there’s something in the detailed coziness, along with the energy of the staff and our guests, that make the place what it is. Jack and Freda were my husband’s…

If You Want Wine… Public Services Wine & Whisky At Public Services, Sommelier Justin Vann keeps it weird in a good way with a huge selection of natural wines you’d be hard-pressed to find elsewhere in town, plus dozens of sherries and Madeiras by the glass. If You Want Cocktails… Tongue - Cut Sparrow To find this speakeasy, look for the plain door in the back room of the Pastry War, a boisterous mezcal bar that’s worth its own visit. Behind the secret door and upstairs, dark wood and jazz standards mix with classic cocktails (try the rum-filled Swizzle). If You Want Beer… Conservatory Conservatory is the city’s first food hall. You can choose from more than 60 beers on tap, many from local breweries such as Saint Arnold, 8th…

4 servings 1 small garlic clove, finely grated1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt3 Tbsp. tahini2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzlingKosher salt, freshly ground pepper4 heads of Little Gem lettuce, halved lengthwise, or 2 heads of romaine, quartered lengthwise3 Tbsp. white wine vinegar1½ cups torn mixed tender herbs (such as basil, dill, tarragon and/or parsley)¼ cup mixed toasted seeds (such as sesame, poppy, hemp, and/or sunflower)¼ cup sliced chivesAleppo-style pepperFlaky sea salt 1. Whisk garlic, yogurt, tahini, lemon juice, and 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium bowl until incorporated and smooth. Season dressing with kosher salt and lots of black pepper (it should look speckled). 2. Toss lettuce and vinegar in a large bowl; season with kosher salt. Add mixed herbs and give it…

4 servings 12 oz. spaghetti or other long pastaKosher salt4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling3 oil-packed anchovy fillets (optional; see sidebar)¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes1 cup finely grated Parmesan, plus more for serving4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into piecesFreshly ground black pepper⅓ cup finely chopped parsley1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until very al dente, about 3 minutes less than package directions. 2. Meanwhile, cook garlic and ¼ cup oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until garlic is golden, about 4 minutes. Add anchovies (if using) and red pepper flakes and cook, smashing anchovies with a wooden spoon to break…

2 servings ½ cup kimchi, plus 3 Tbsp. juice from jar4 scallions2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil2 large eggsKosher salt1 medium carrot, peeled, cut into matchsticks2 cups cooked grains (such as farro, spelt, quinoa, or barley)2 tsp. soy sauce1 tsp. toasted sesame oilCrumbled toasted nori snacks and toasted sesame seeds (for serving) 1. Squeeze kimchi over a small bowl to catch juices. Add juice from jar and set aside. Chop kimchi; set aside. Cut dark green tops from scallions and thinly slice; set aside. Thinly slice white and pale green parts and set those aside too. (Whenever you make a stir-fry, you should prep your ingredients in advance, but it doesn’t have to be a whole thing; just scoot these things into their own piles on your cutting board.) 2. Heat…

4 servings 2 oil-packed anchovy fillets (optional)1 small garlic clove, thinly sliced1 cup chopped tender herbs (such as parsley, dill, and/or basil)1 Tbsp. chopped pickles (capers, cornichons, or chile)2 Tbsp. fresh lemon or lime juice or white wine vinegar6 Tbsp. (or more) extra-virgin olive oil, dividedKosher salt, freshly ground pepper4 5–6-oz. skin-on black bass, striped bass, snapper, or salmon filletsFlaky sea salt 1. Using the side of a chef’s knife, mash anchovies (if using) and garlic on a cutting board until a coarse paste forms. Mix in a medium bowl with herbs, pickles, lemon juice, and 5 Tbsp. oil. Season green sauce with kosher salt and pepper. 2. Swirl remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick skillet to coat. Season fish generously on both sides with salt and lay,…

4 servings ½ cup raw skin-on peanuts2 Tbsp. vegetable oil4 garlic cloves, crushed1 lb. ground pork, beef, or lambKosher salt1 large shallot, thinly sliced into rings5 scallions, thinly sliced4 red or green Thai chiles, thinly sliced1 lemongrass stalk, bottom third only, tough outer layers removed, thinly sliced2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. fish sauce1 cup torn mint leaves¼ head of green cabbage, halved crosswise, leaves separatedCooked short-grain rice and lime wedges (for serving) 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Toast peanuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing halfway through, until skins are slightly darkened and nuts are golden brown, 6–8 minutes. Let cool, then coarsely chop or crush into small pieces. 2. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high until shimmering. Add garlic and cook, smashing down…

6–8 servings DOUGH 1 cup all-purpose flour⅓ cup buckwheat flour3 Tbsp. sugar1 tsp. kosher salt½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces FILLING AND ASSEMBLY All-purpose flour (for surface)1 lb. rhubarb, cut into." pieces8 oz. strawberries, hulled, halved if large1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. cornstarch⅓ cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling½ vanilla bean, halved lengthwise1 large egg, beaten to blendWhipped cream, ice cream, or creme fraiche (for serving) DOUGH 1. Whisk all-purpose and buckwheat flours, sugar, and salt in a large bowl to combine. Add butter and work into dry ingredients with your hands, mashing it into big flat pieces and smooshing it between your palms into the flour, until you have pea-and nickel-size pieces. 2. Drizzle 1/4 cup ice water over mixture and rake it in with your…

1 How we measure flour Use a large spoon to fill cup measure with flour, then use a flat edge (the top edge of a chef’s knife works), flush against the rim, to scrape excess cleanly off the top. Three things you should always have in the freezer □ UNSALTED BUTTER It won’t take on fridge odors, and you always need backup. □ PARMESAN RINDS Add to soups, tomato sauces, and pots of beans for rich salty goodness. □ RAW NUTS Toast and chop for salads, pastas, grain bowls—or deploy for making pesto. 3 To chill or not to chill? REFRIGERATE Citrus Apples Corn DON’T REFRIGERATE Tomatoes Garlic Stone fruit 4 The three cooking oils you need NEUTRAL Grapeseed, vegetable, or peanut for high-heat cooking like pan-frying cutlets, frying eggs,…

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There are four seasons. Rosé is not one of them. It is just a wine, and contrary to sidewalk chalkboard clichés, you can drink it before May and after August. And you should. There’s a spectrum of rosés beyond the light pink “summer water” style, from dark coral to damn near red, that drink well year-round. Some assume dark rosés will be sweet, but color doesn’t predict the second coming of White Zin. Rosé most often gains its color from how long it hangs out with its skins (called maceration), which can give a wine body, flavor, and tannic structure. These rosés are full enough for end-of-winter stews but have enough acidity to enjoy through heat waves. Natural wine producers have pushed darker styles, which is why you’re seeing Italian…

Khoa, Quynh, and Yenvy Pham learned pho from the best: their parents, the owners of legendary Seattle noodle soup shop PhỎ’ Bắc. But what kind of students have they been? When they opened PhỎ’ Bắc Súp Shop, they heeded plenty of their parents’ lessons (Mom joins a crew of cooks for a few hours each day). But definitely not all of them… Why create Súp Shop? Khoa: Vietnamese restaurants in Little Saigon aren’t really multigenerational businesses. A lot of kids didn’t want to take it on—they’re becoming lawyers and doctors. We’re thinking about that transition: What’s the next step? Yenvy: We want to preserve the cultural heritage here, to revive things. We’re lucky our parents gave us free rein because trying something innovative, like a natural wine program, is a…

WHEN I’M HOME SICK, I rarely make chicken soup. Instead, I simmer a pot of garlic broth. Consisting of just six ingredients, it comes together without me needing to make a run to the grocery store—something no one should do when they’ve got a cold. Adding some garlic toasted in olive oil to the pot transforms the simple broth into an umami liquid reminiscent of dashi. It’s so delicious, soothing, and easy to put together, it barely counts as cooking. Start by heating 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a large saucepan over medium. Add 1 head’s worth peeled cracked garlic cloves and cook, tossing them around occasionally, until they are golden brown all over, 8–10 minutes. Add 2 quarts water and bring to a simmer. While water is heating,…

1 – BUTTER UP Arrange a rack in center of oven; preheat to 425°. Brush a 9" cake pan with at least 1½" sides with 1 Tbsp. melted butter (if using salted butter, omit salt below). Line bottom with a round of parchment paper and smooth. 2 – FROM FREEZER TO OVEN Toss 20 oz. frozen sweet cherries, 2 Tbsp. sugar, 2 Tbsp. lemon juice, and 2 Tbsp. melted butter in pan. Bake until juices are syrupy and bubbling, 40–50 minutes. Let cool. Set oven to 350°. 3 – MEASURE IT OUT Whisk 2 cups all-purpose flour, 1 cup sugar, 2 tsp. baking powder, ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. baking soda in a big bowl. Add 3 large eggs, 1 cup sour cream, 5 Tbsp. melted butter, and 2…

4 servings 2 cups coarsely torn sourdough bread½ cup walnuts6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzlingKosher salt3 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar1 garlic clove, finely grated¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes2 fennel bulbs with fronds¾ cup torn mint leaves½ lemon2 oz. Parmesan, shaved 1. Preheat oven to 400°. Place bread on one side of a rimmed baking sheet and walnuts on the other side (they cook at different rates). Drizzle bread with 3 Tbsp. oil; season with salt. Toss, squeezing bread with your hands to help it absorb as much oil as possible, until evenly coated. Bake until walnuts are golden brown and croutons are deeply browned and very crisp, 8–10 minutes for walnuts, 12–15 minutes for croutons. Let cool, then coarsely chop walnuts. 2.…

2 servings ½ cup dry white wine2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced2 tsp. finely chopped oregano¾ tsp. kosher salt¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes1 bunch Tuscan kale, ribs and stems removed1 15.5-oz. can white beans (such as butter or cannellini), rinsed½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil; plus more for serving2 1"-thick slices crusty bread White wine vinegar (for serving) 1. Bring wine, garlic, oregano, salt, red pepper flakes, and ¼ cup water to a boil in a large skillet. Add kale, cover pan (a baking sheet works great if you don’t have a big lid), and cook, stirring occasionally, until greens are wilted, about 4 minutes. Mix in beans and ½ cup oil and cook, uncovered, until beans are warmed through, about 2 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, heat 2 Tbsp.…

2–4 servings 4 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper¼ cup white wine vinegar4 garlic cloves, crushed2 lemons, halved1½ tsp. honey½ tsp. Aleppo-style pepper3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1. Pat chicken thighs dry and season well with salt and black pepper. Place in a large resealable plastic bag and add vinegar. Seal bag and gently massage chicken to ensure all thighs are coated in vinegar. Chill 1 hour. 2. Preheat oven to 400°. Remove chicken thighs from bag and pat dry with paper towels. The drier the skin, the crispier it will be when cooked. 3. Place chicken thighs, skin side down, in a dry large cast-iron skillet and set over medium heat. Cook undisturbed until they easily release from the pan, about 4 minutes. Continue to cook,…

12 servings POSOLE 1½ lb. dried large white hominy, soaked overnight2 large onions, peeled2 bay leaves6 black peppercorns3 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided4 lb. bone-in country-style pork ribs1 Tbsp. ground cumin6 garlic cloves, finely chopped CHILE PURÉE AND ASSEMBLY 2½ oz. dried New Mexico chiles2½ oz. ancho chiles1 large onion, coarsely chopped6 garlic cloves, crushed¼ cup apple cider vinegar2 tsp. light brown sugar1 tsp. kosher salt, plus moreAvocado wedges, cilantro sprigs, thinly sliced cabbage, sliced jalapeños, sliced radishes, lime wedges, sour cream, tortilla chips, and hot sauce (for serving) POSOLE 1. Drain hominy and place in a large heavy pot; add onions, bay leaves, peppercorns, 2 Tbsp. salt, and 12 cups water. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer, still covered, stirring occasionally, until hominy starts to…

6 servings ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil¼ cup harissa paste (preferably New York Shuk)1 garlic clove, grated1 lemon, halved1 2-lb. skinless center-cut salmon filletKosher saltMixed tender herbs (such as parsley, cilantro, dill, and/or chives; for serving) 1. Preheat oven to 275°. Whisk oil, harissa, and garlic in a medium bowl. Pour half of harissa oil into a 2.5-qt. baking dish and swirl to coat. Thinly slice a lemon half and remove any seeds; scatter slices in dish. 2. Season salmon on all sides with salt and place in dish. Pour remaining harissa oil over salmon, spreading evenly over flesh with a pastry brush or spoon. Roast 15 minutes. Remove from oven and baste fish with harissa oil pooled in dish. Return to oven and continue to roast until flesh flakes…

Makes one 8 ½ x 4½"loaf Nonstick vegetable oil spray White sesame seeds(for sprinkling)2 Tbsp. black sesame seeds, plus more for sprinkling1 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling1½ cups all-purpose flour1¾ tsp. baking powder1 tsp. kosher salt½ tsp. ground cardamom¼ tsp. baking soda½ cup plain whole-milk yogurt½ cup tahini2 large eggs1 tsp. vanilla extract½ cup vegetable oil1½ tsp. toasted sesame oil 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Lightly coat an 8½x4½" loaf pan with nonstick spray. Line with parchment paper, leaving overhang on long sides. Lightly coat parchment with nonstick spray. Sprinkle sides and bottom of pan with white and black sesame seeds and sugar and shake around in pan to coat; tap out excess. Finely grind 2 Tbsp. black sesame seeds in a spice mill, food processor, or blender; set aside.…

FROM P. 39 SOUR CHERRY ON TOP Most canned and jarred fruit is never as good as we want it to be (see anything with “cocktail” in the name). One shining exception: jarred sour cherries, which sub beautifully for fresh rhubarb in our Fruit Galette with Buckwheat Crust. Unlike Bing cherries, the sour variety is almost too tart to eat fresh and is best when cooked. Drain them before using in cakes and pies, or reduce in syrup over medium-low until saucy and spoon over vanilla ice cream. —EMMA WARTZMAN FROM P. 86 Buckwheat Wild Earthy buckwheat flour isn’t made from grains—it’s actually the ground seeds of a plant that counts rhubarb and sorrel as cousins. But that doesn’t stop us from adding the flour to baked goods. When baking,…

At home Liev Schreiber has a very specific dinnertime audience: sons Sasha, ten, and Kai, nine. “Most of the food I make is designed for boys,” the Ray Donovan actor explains. One of his regulars? Marinated drumsticks, a recipe he has down pat: Refrigerate with olive oil, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, black pepper, and red chile flakes, then bake at 350° until crispy. Yet he can’t quite seem to master the pot of rice he serves with them. “Sometimes the simmer time gets messed up because I’m dealing with boys,” the star of the new animated movie Isle of Dogs admits with a laugh. But it’s also an essential ingredient in another Schreiber family favorite: homemade sushi. Between YouTube tutorials and studying the masters behind the counter at BondSt restaurant…