Indholdsfortegnelse for May 2018 i Bon Appetit

I USED TO BE A LINE COOK AT A TWO MICHELIN-STAR RESTAURANT IN LOS ANGELES. In the kitchen, everything had to be perfect and in its proper place. You’d open the drawers and all of the mise en place was labeled, everything had a home. So much thought and care was being put into producing this beautiful food, but the people making it (myself included) looked pretty shoddy. I quickly realized, because we didn’t feel good in our uniforms, we didn’t have pride in the food we were making. I wanted to fix that. When you wear a clean outfit you feel confident in, you hold your head up higher. I wanted to make aprons that gave people the same empowered feeling. I wanted people to feel awesome. I thought…

There are some places I travel, like, say, the woods or my hometown, where stopping into a hip local café isn’t really an option. Which brings me to the collapsible pour-over. A few years ago I bought one to take on camping trips, and my coffee game has never been the same. Now this lightweight gadget is an essential in my suitcase, whether I’m driving to upstate New York for the weekend or going on a cruise with my family. For the same amount of space as a few extra pairs of socks, I can fit paper filters, a small bag of coffee, and a pint-size grinder. I only need access to hot water to have a café-quality cup in my room. Another plus: Refills are basically free.…

MENU Peaches and Shaved Fennel Salad Breakfast Calzone Marinated Beans with Ricotta Salata Torta Pasqualina Make Breakfast an Occasion Peaches and Shaved Fennel Salad with Red Pepper 8 SERVINGS There’s no reason to make this savory fruit salad unless the peaches you have are worth celebrating or you can get your hands on some superb nectarines. 5 large peaches (about 2 lb. total), cut into ½"-thick wedges 3 Tbsp. Chardonnay vinegar or white wine vinegar, divided Kosher salt 1 small fennel bulb, halved, very thinly sliced on a mandoline, plus coarsely chopped fennel fronds 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Extra-virgin olive oil (for drizzling) Aleppo-style or other mild red pepper flakes (for serving) Toss peaches in a large bowl with 2 Tbsp. vinegar and pinch of salt to coat. Arrange peaches…

MENU Sea Bream Crudo Tomatoes and Haricots Verts Handmade Malfatti Grilled Turbot Tiramisù with Cookies Long. Lazy. Lunch. Sea Bream Crudo with Lemon and Olives 8 SERVINGS Sea bream, common in the Mediterranean, has lean flesh with a light, delicate flavor. If you can’t find it, porgy or snapper are suitable subs. 2 plum tomatoes, halved crosswise Kosher salt ½ lemon 1½ lb. highest-quality sea bream, skin, bones, and blood lines removed 1½ cups arugula ⅓ cup Nicoise olives ½ small red onion, very thinly sliced ½ cup fresh lemon juice Extra-virgin olive oil (for drizzling) Flaky sea salt Grate tomatoes on a box grater until all the flesh is grated and there is just skin left; discard skin. Transfer tomato pulp to a small bowl and season lightly with kosher…

MENU Beef Sliders Grain Salad with Tomatoes Shrimp Empanadas Italian Sundaes with Nutella You Don ’ t Have to Eat at the Table Grain Salad with Tomatoes and Cucumbers 8 SERVINGS We call for semi-pearled grains because they cook more quickly and have a roughened-up texture that helps them soak up the dressing. Browning them first deepens their flavor. 2 cups semi-pearled farro or spelt Kosher salt ⅓ cup pine nuts 3 medium Persian cucumbers, peeled, cut into." pieces 3 medium tomatoes, thinly sliced 1 pint Sun Gold and/or cherry tomatoes, halved crosswise 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced Juice of 1 lemon (or more) ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar Freshly ground black pepper 2 cups torn basil leaves Preheat oven to 350°. Cook farro…

MENU Romano Beans with Mustard Vinaigrette Arugula with Italian Plums Paccheri with Shellfish Grilled Red Mullet Grilled Bistecca Brioche au Rhum Grilled Red Mullet with Charred Onions and Pine Nuts 8 SERVINGS The textured sweet-and-sour condiment (agrodolce) would also be excellent spooned over vegetables or chicken or tossed with cooked grains. ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more⅓ cup pine nuts4 small onions, unpeeled¼ cup drained capers¼ cup raisins¼ cup red wine vinegar Kosher salt8 whole red mullets or 4 red snappers, scales removed, cleaned1 cup parsley leaves with tender stemsAleppo-style or other mild red pepper flakes and lemon wedges (for serving) Preheat oven to 350° and prepare a grill for medium-high heat. Clean grate well with a brush; oil grate. Toast pine nuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once,…

I’m hard-pressed to think of a recipe more versatile than a frittata. It’s perfect any time of day and delicious hot or at room temperature, plus it makes a meal out of your farmers’ market haul (and any leftovers you have languishing in the fridge). Our stovetop method provides plenty of visual cues every step of the way and delivers tender, golden results. 1 - BACON IS BEST Cook 1 Tbsp. olive oil and 3 oz. chopped bacon in a medium nonstick skillet over medium-low, stirring, until crisp, 5–8 minutes. Add 1 chopped medium onion; cook, stirring, until translucent, 5 minutes. 2 - COVER AND COOK Add 6 oz. new potatoes or baby Yukon Gold potatoes, sliced into ¼"-thick rounds, and toss to coat. Cover skillet with a lid (or…

THE GUIDE pp. 13–38 BAR 63 Rolandstrasse 19, Zurich; +41-44-241-7583; bar63.ch B. PATISSERIE 2821 California St., San Francisco; 415-440-1700; bpatisserie.com COFFEE Grüngasse 4., Zurich; coffeezurich.com CRAFTSMAN AND WOLVES For locations, go to craftsman-wolves.com GAMPER RESTAURANT Nietengasse 1, Zurich; +41-44-221-1177; gamper-restaurant.ch LE JULES VERNE Eiffel Tower, 2nd. Fl.; Paris; +33-1-4555-6144; lejulesverne-paris.com TARTINE BAKERY & CAFE 600 Guerrero St., San Francisco; 415-487-2600; tartinebakery.com THE SEASON pp. 43–52 KACHKA 720 SE Grand Ave., Portland, OR; 503-235-0059; kachkapdx.com LORING PLACE 21 W. Eighth St., NYC; 212-388-1831; loringplacenyc.com MILTON’S 3025 Fourth Ave., Saint Paul, VA; 276-738-3041 VIOLET BAKERY 47 Wilton Way, London; +44-20-7275-8360; violetcakes.com THE WILLOWS INN 2579 W. Shore Dr., Lummi Island, WA; 360-758-2620; willows-inn.com THE FEED pp. 66–68 LULA CAFE 2537 N. Kedzie Blvd., Chicago; 773-489-9554; lulacafe.com MARISOL at the MCA 205 E.…

Rules of the Road When we go on vacation, we bring back more than souvenirs. We return with a bit of wisdom. We learn that there’s nothing wrong with planning a trip around croissants (see page 28). Or that, as you’ll see here, some of our favorite sightseeing happens in the grocery store (page 30). So what else has our staff learned through the years? Keep reading. 1 DON’T LEAVE THE FRIDGE TOTALLY BARE Passport, check. 3.4-oz bottles, check. Hunk of Parm in the fridge—wait, what? While I’m packing for vacation, I’m already planning dinner for the night I get home. That way, even if everything in my fridge has wilted while I was away, even if I land after my take-out spots have closed, I can still make cacio…

Finally: Spring! Candy-like sugar snap peas piled high in a fresh raw salad. Ramps battered and fried into light and airy fritters. The produce this time of year is so fresh and pristine, we’d jump on a plane for it. But where to go? We ask chefs who actually travel for the good stuff. OH, SNAP PEA! “In 2012 I had dinner at the Willows Inn on Lummi Island, Washington. Afterward, chef Blaine Wetzel snuck us into the gardens late at night, and we started walking around with a flashlight and tasting things. I had the most incredible sugar snap peas I’ve ever eaten, with the most tender and sweet blossoms.” —DAN KLUGER, Loring Place, NYC SUGAR SNAP PEA SALAD Whisk ¾ cup buttermilk, 3 Tbsp. plain whole-milk Greek yogurt,…

Photos of Airbnb listings never show me what I really need to see: what’s inside those kitchen cabinets. And nothing sets me off like dull knives, scratched nonstick cookware, and a lack of basic utensils. I don’t leave anything to chance when I plan to cook on vacation. My knife roll goes where I do, although it rarely contains more than one knife. Instead, I pack it full of the cooking tools that make or break my stay, like small silicone spatulas for scrambled eggs, a Microplane, wooden cooking spoons, and a fish spatula for everything else. Packed tightly in a knife roll, my tools take up as little room as possible.…

(RECIPEP. 116) Torta Pasqualina 8 SERVINGS Don’t expect your first pasqualina to look perfect. But it will taste absolutely amazing if you remember three key steps, detailed in Prep School (p. 125): Don’t sweat the crust, squeeze every drop of liquid out of the greens, and save your chard stems! DOUGH 3½ cups all-purpose flour 2 Tbsp. sugar 1½ tsp. kosher salt 1½ cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces, chilled in freezer FILLING AND ASSEMBLY 3½ lb. Swiss chard (about 5 bunches), ribs and stems removed 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 medium onions, finely chopped 10 large eggs 1½ cups whole-milk fresh ricotta, preferably box-drained, patted dry 4 oz. Parmesan, coarsely grated 1 large garlic clove, finely grated 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest ¼ tsp. freshly grated…

(RECIPE P. 117)…

(RECIPE P. 119)…

The guest list Chef and ceramist Fernando Aciar Jessica Barros The brilliant Gabriela Cámara, chef of SF’s Cala and Mexico City’s Contramar Thomas Carter, Mattos\’business partner and head of debauchery Candace Currin Makr’s Jason Gregory, the only one who knew how to drive the boat Interpol’s Daniel Kessler Unis designer Eunice Lee Susannah Liguori Flora Bar chef (and Mattos mind reader) Jake Nemmers Euni Park Zuni Café’s Hermès-loving owner Gilbert Pilgram Tartine baker Chad Robertson David M. Sullivan Chef, writer, and Speedo enthusiast David Tanis Gabe Ulla, who has probably finished writing the Estela book by now Alex Vallis BRVTVS designer Caroline Ventura…

YOU KNOW THOSE PEOPLE YOU SEE HUNCHED OVER IN THE CORNERS OF COFFEE SHOPS OR AIRPORT LOUNGES, oblivious to the world outside? I find them—and their laser focus—inspiring. Just the idea that you could write the Great American Novel (or business plan) while the cappuccino machine roars three feet from your head and a toddler angrily throws biscotti at her harried father next to you feels like a testament to the human capacity for getting things done. Those people are amazing! But I am not one of those people. I’ve always craved a more peaceful place to work. When I was eight years old, I remember marching irately to the front of my thirdgrade classroom and demanding that Mrs. Horner silence the din raging around us so I could finish…

You Can’t (Cork)screw This Up My favorite places to drink wine are invariably also places where I’m not really supposed to be drinking. Nothing makes me feel more like a truant teenager than sipping pétnat in the park, cold rosato on the beach, or Savagnin in a crowded movie theater. Which is why I keep a cheap two-step wine key stashed in almost every tote, backpack, and coat pocket. (But I keep it in a checked bag when flying.) It doesn’t have to be fancy. I buy mine in bulk online for a few bucks and distribute them liberally throughout the nooks and crannies of my life. Because having the truly inspired idea to take a good bottle on a hike—what the hell else are you supposed to do when…

THE FUNNY THING ABOUT WORKING AT A FANCY FOOD MAGAZINE IS THAT no matter how often you insist that your day to day involves a whole lot of sitting in meetings and staring at screens, your friends and family nevertheless believe that you spend all of your time jet-setting to exotic locales, schmoozing with chefs, and eating the most fabulous things from sunup to sundown. Another funny thing about working at a fancy food magazine is that sometimes, well, all of that is true. The idea was simple, if a little nutty: Rent a gigantic villa on the banks of Lake Como, invite one of the most talented chefs in the world to host his friends there for a week, and meticulously document the good times and deliciousness that ensued. Ignacio…

FROM P. 46 RAMP UP Fresh-from-the-earth ramps need a good cleaning before heading for fritters, pickles, or pasta. Here’s how to treat these wild leeks right. —CHRISTINA CHAEY 1. Remove any slippery outer layers from bulbs, trim roots, then soak in a bowl of cold water, swishing around gently to loosen any dirt. 2. Lift out the ramps and blot dry with paper towels. Avoid cramming them in a salad spinner so as not to damage the delicate leaves. 3. Cut away the leaves from the bulbs. Wrap separately in damp paper towels and store in a plastic bag in the fridge. Use within 3 days. FROM P. 118 THE OTHER LEAFY GREEN I used to think only the outermost stalks in a bunch of celery were worth eating. I was so wrong.…