Indholdsfortegnelse for June-July 2018 i Bon Appetit

My parents bought their place in upstate New York in 1987, and I wasn’t happy about it. As an 18-year-old, the last thing I wanted to do was come home from college to D.C. and immediately head to a country house hundreds of miles away (with my parents no less!). Funny how times change. Over the next 25 years, the house became a quick escape from New York City, where I moved after graduating; a permanent home for my parents when they relocated to East Chatham in 2007; and the place where I learned to love to grill. While up there on weekends, we’d spend our days doing this and that—tooling around nearby Hudson, running errands, maybe some yard work. But basically it was all just killing time until I…

1 KUROBUTA FRENCHED PORK CHOP Kurobuta heritage pigs are grown for flavor, and the breed’s high quantity of fat promises a juicy finish. ($17, approx. 5 oz.; snakeriverfarms.com) 2 LAMB LOIN CHOPS Heritage Foods is an online butcher known for heirloom breeds: Think Red Wattle prosciutto or these mildly gamey Dorset Horn chops. ($120 for eight chops, approx. 8 oz. each; heritagefoodsusa.com) 3 AKAUSHI BEEF RIBEYE This deeply marbled beef is a breed of Japanese Wagyu cattle by way of Texas. ($50, approx. 14 oz.; heartbrandbeef.com) 4 SKIRT STEAK Belcampo provides in-depth info about how its grass-fed animals are raised and processed. ($25, approx. 2.3 lb.; belcampo.goldbely.com) 5 WAGYU MERLOT STEAK Cook this tender grass-fed, grain finished cut from the calf muscle like a flank steak. ($16, approx. 20 oz.;…

Niçoise Toast Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Gently lower in 4 large eggs with a slotted spoon; cook 8 minutes. Transfer to a bowl of ice water; let cool. Peel eggs. Toss 1 lb. tomatoes, cut into 1" pieces, 1 thinly sliced medium shallot, juice from 1 lemon, a pinch of sugar, and a pinch of kosher salt in a medium bowl. Whisk 1 finely grated garlic clove, ½ cup mayonnaise, 1½ tsp. red wine vinegar, and ½ tsp. hot smoked Spanish paprika in a small bowl; season with kosher salt. Heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a large skillet over medium. Cook 2 slices sourdough bread until deeply browned on bottom side, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a platter; sprinkle fried side with kosher salt.…

Hanger Steak with Charred Scallion Sauce 4 SERVINGS ½ cup crushed or coarsely chopped walnuts1 small garlic clove9 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided1 1½-lb. hanger steak, cut into 4 pieces, center membrane removedKosher salt, freshly ground pepper¾ tsp. Aleppo-style pepper, plus more for serving12 scallions5 tsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar1 Tbsp. chopped cornichons1 Tbsp. chopped drained capers1 Tbsp. whole grain mustard¾ tsp. chopped thymePinch of sugarFlaky sea salt Preheat oven to 350°. Toast walnuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown, 8–10 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl. Finely grate garlic over warm walnuts and toss with 6 Tbsp. oil. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Season steaks with kosher salt and black pepper; sprinkle all over with Aleppo-style pepper. Rub with 2 Tbsp.…

Dull rental-kitchen knives, cheap cookware, and musty spices can derail the best-laid vacation meal plans. Think of this checklist as your insurance policy, and bring the key equipment, tools, and pantry staples from home that will make cooking enjoyable when you’re away. Pack up everything between a big plastic storage bin and a tote that can double as a market bag. THE CHECKLIST EQUIPMENT □ CAST-IRON SKILLET □ NONSTICK SKILLET □ 2 RIMMED BAKING SHEETS □ BLENDER □ CUTTING BOARD □ AIRTIGHT CONTAINERS TOOLS □ KNIVES □ WOODEN SPOONS □ THIN METAL SPATULA □ SLOTTED SPOON □ WHISK □ PEPPER MILL □ CITRUS JUICER □ FINE-MESH SIEVE □ MICROPLANE ZESTER □ DIGITAL THERMOMETER □ PAIR OF TONGS □ WINE KEY □ CAN OPENER □ DISH TOWELS PANTRY □ YOUR TOP…

Pork Shoulder Steaks with Grilled Mustard Greens 4 SERVINGS Like a rib eye, pork shoulder has lots of intramuscular fat, and like strip steak, it has satisfying chew. Slicing it thickly and grilling it swiftly maximizes the enjoyment of both. PORK 2 Tbsp. fennel seeds1 Tbsp. yellow mustard seeds1½ tsp. black peppercorns1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes1 tsp. ground cinnamon4 ¾"-thick boneless pork shoulder (Boston butt) steaks (about 2 lb.) or pork blade chopsKosher salt GREENS AND ASSEMBLY Vegetable oil (for grill)1 lemon, halved2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling2 garlic cloves2 bunches mustard greens, leaves torn into large piecesKosher salt, freshly ground pepper½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakesFlaky sea salt SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A spice mill or a mortar and pestle PORK Toast fennel and mustard seeds in a…

SHOPPING LIST A NEW FLAME pp. 68–73 P. 70 DINNER PLATE From $150–$380; bddw.com TRAVEL PLANNER STARTERS pp. 13–22 ACCOMPLICE 3811 Grand View Blvd., Los Angeles; 310-574-7610; accomplicebar.com BASIC KITCHEN 82 Wentworth St., Charleston, SC; 843-789-4568; basickitchen.com BELLECOUR 739 Lake Street E., Wayzata, MN; 952-444-5200; bellecourrestaurant.com CÚRATE 13 Biltmore Ave., Asheville, NC; 828-239-2946; heirloomhg.com/curate FRANKLIN BARBECUE 900 E. 11th St., Austin; 512-653-1187; franklinbarbecue.com GARLAND 14 W. Martin St., Raleigh, NC; 919-833-6886; garlandraleigh.com LORO 2115 S. Lamar Blvd., Austin; 512-916-4858; haihospitality.com/restaurants/loro SUGARFISH For locations, go to sugarfishsushi.com 2M SMOKEHOUSE 2731 S. WW White Rd., San Antonio; 210-885-9352; 2msmokehouse.com UCHI For locations, go to uchiaustin.com VALENTINA’S TEX MEX BBQ 11500 Manchaca Rd., Austin; 512-221-4248; valentinastexmexbbq.com DINNER TONIGHT pp. 28–36 ROLF AND DAUGHTERS 700 Taylor St., Nashville; 615-866-9897; rolfanddaughters.com CITY GUIDES: COPENHAGEN pp.…

What to Eat, Drink, and Grill This Month Do we need bells and whistles on a grill? No. Do we want them? After hearing chefs talk up the Kudu—yes. It has a grill grate and castiron pan on arms that swing to the side and move up or down for mega heat control. (Think ten-zone fire, not two.) Katie Button of Cúrate in Asheville, NC, loves it for paella, which needs precise temps hard to achieve on other grills. “If it’s too hot, I just move the pan up,” she says. The setup also offers extra real estate. “Cook a rib eye, swing it over to rest, start the corn, maybe sear some peaches,” says Cheetie Kumar of Garland in Raleigh, NC. “Hopefully someone inside made a salad, and you’ve…

If You Need Us, We’ll Be at Basic Kitchen Send our mail to Charleston, SC, where this cheery all-day café is providing compelling reasons to stay, well, all day. That obligatory avocado toast just tastes better with a Jittery Monkey smoothie (cold brew, bananas, coconut milk, and cacao nibs), and conversation flows as freely as the house kombucha. And after a Fiery Carrot nightcap (a vibrant mix of grapefruit, orange, and ginger), driving home is no problem. —ALIZA ABARBANEL UNEXPECTED BARTENDER ENDORSEMENT We couldn’t help but roll our eyes when we first heard about Seedlip, a new “nonalcoholic spirit.” But all its bartender fans, including Gaby Mlynarczyk of Accomplice in L.A., have made us reconsider: “If you’re not drinking, you used to be stuck with iced tea or soda. How…

RECIPES TIPS MENU IDEAS I’VE BEEN known to buy strawberries by the flat (that would be eight quarts). These little red orbs are so sweet and juicy that I’ll easily burn through a pint still warm from the sun on my way home from the farmers’ market. When I can’t possibly eat another handful, I’ll bake them into pies, blend up a cool agua fresca, or add them to savory salads. And there’s no better way to eat slightly overripe berries than macerated and spooned over vanilla ice cream. “Strawberries are like tomatoes for me; I’ll wait till they’re in season, then gorge myself like a brown bear before hibernation.”—BRAD LEONE, TEST KITCHEN MANAGER Strawberry and Watercress Salad Very thinly slice ½ medium rhubarb stalk on a diagonal, then hull…

1-BERRY NICE Measure out 2 cups blackberries from 2 pints; slice in half lengthwise. Toss in a bowl with 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice and ½ cup blackberry jam; let sit 10 minutes. (Save the rest of the berries for decorating later.) 2-CRACK THE WHIP Using an electric mixer, beat 2 cups chilled heavy cream in a large bowl, starting on low speed and increasing to high, until soft peaks form. Beat in ¼ cup powdered sugar and a pinch of salt just to combine. 3-LAY THE FOUNDATION Line a medium bowl (6-cup capacity) with plastic wrap, pressing into bottom and up sides and leaving plenty of overhang. Line the bottom of bowl with a layer of vanilla wafers (you’ll need 8 oz. total). 4-COOKIES AND CREAM Spoon about ¼…

Hit the farmers’ market for lettuces, fresh beans and greens, herbs, melons, berries, and a few good eggs. Round out things with bread and cheese and you’ll be freed up to throw together casual dishes, such as a giant salad or on-the-fly frittata, with little to no planning required. Come midday, when it’s hot and no one feels like cooking, opt for the lazy lunch: Whip up a garlicky aioli and serve it with a produce-heavy platter starring your market haul. Graze all afternoon. Nap. Repeat. Grand Aioli Whisk 2 large egg yolks, 1 tsp. Dijon mustard, 1 finely grated garlic clove, and a pinch of kosher salt in a medium bowl to combine. Set bowl on top of a kitchen towel laid across a small heavy pot (this setup…

Where to Drink…Coffee The light-roast coffee movement was instigated in part by Klaus Thomsen of Coffee Collective, which now has four Pinterest-ing locations, the Jægersborggade one being our favorite. Want something really different? Try the kombucha, fermented from leftover filter coffee. EVEN IF YOU HAVEN’T SCORED A RESERVATION AT Noma 2.0, Copenhagen is still one of the world’s most exciting places to eat, as chefs from René Redzepi’s stable continue to spin off into their own orbits. Though the food at these places often seems too simple—why would you travel to Scandinavia for pizza and tacos?—so much thought goes into making it that you’ll be spoiled for the basics back home. And if the city’s food and design quotient weren’t enough, then there’s the summer vibe. You can bike everywhere,…

YES, WE CAN Prime examples of the thirst-quenching beer styles you’ll be drinking this summer (see p. 86): Creature Comforts Brewing Co. Athena, Lost Nation Brewing Gose, Suarez Family Brewery Palatine Pils, and Mikkeller Brewing San Diego Windy Hill Beer and a backyard barbecue: a duo you’re probably familiar with. But if you’ve moved past burgers and dogs to healthyish seafood and new-school sides, shouldn’t you be reaching for a beer to match? Maybe it’s time to embrace some unfamiliar styles and pack your cooler with tart, fruity, refreshing brews. But remember: Drinking beer is still supposed to be fun. So if by chance someone at your cookout takes your cooler of craft brews as a cue to lecture you about hop varieties, well, that person might just get pushed…

The rub is the same as at Franklin, but this gets hit with fish sauce and chili oil. “We wanted a lightness to meter the smoke and fat,” Dumapit says. Superheroes have the Avengers. Austin has Loro. Two of the city’s most celebrated chefs—Aaron Franklin of Franklin Barbecue and Tyson Cole of Japanese-inspired Uchi (both James Beard Award winners)—have joined forces for a new smokehouse where Texas barbecue meets Asian flavors and techniques. Franklin smokes his signature brisket using a wood-burning Oyler rotisserie smoker made in Texas and stocked with post oak, which gets balanced by a pan-Asian arsenal from chef de cuisine (and Uchi alum) James Dumapit. The result is food that finds common ground but wears its influences like badges of honor, from oak-grilled marinated pork shoulder (for…

BA Q&A What did you have for breakfast today? “We traveled to Toronto and Berlin recently, so there was a time change. I stabilized myself with very austere oatmeal, which I love to make. And I liked it today even more.” How do you take it? “I add a little goat’s milk. My wife, who is French, has found the best butter in Los Angeles, actually through my friend Jonathan Gold. So I like to put a little of that in.” Is it in a gold wrapper? Bigger than a hockey puck? “Yeah, you know the exact one.” [Editor’s note: It’s Rodolphe le Meunier Beurre de Baratte.] Coffee or tea? “I gave [them both] up. And I’m so very, very happy right now.” How do you like your eggs? “You…

Shop The best thing about farmers’ market strawberries is getting to sample as you shop (just ask first!). Look for fragrant berries that are red all the way through with perky green tops. Check the bottom of the container to make sure none are crushed. Store Truthfully, the ripe ones never last around us for long. If you want to hold them a few days, arrange berries in a single layer on a baking sheet or plate, loosely cover with plastic wrap, and chill. Clean Strawberries keep longer if unwashed. Before eating, swish them around in a large bowl of cold water to release any dirt or loose leaves. Hull To cut out the bitter white center, insert a paring knife into the top of the berry at a slight…

YOU AND YOUR FAMILY AND FRIENDS ARE PACKING up the car and going away for a week to your little rental at the beach, the lake, the woods, the country spot with a swimming hole. There’s a general store, a weekly farmers’ market, and maybe a decent butcher and fishmonger, but there’s no Whole Foods, no Trader Joe’s, and definitely no Instacart. You’ll eat out a couple of times, but mostly you came to sleep in, hang out, cook meals together, swim/hike/bike, and take at least one nap a day. Here’s the gear to bring from home, how to shop like a local upon arrival, and the recipes that let you get the most out of summer. Consider it your guide to culinary survival in the not-quite-wilderness.…

When the sun goes down and the evening breezes kick up, take the kitchen outside for a full-on fish fry. Set up your cutting board on the deck table, enlist housemates to pitch in with prep and stocking the cooler with drinks, and treat the (probably propane) grill as the heat source for these insanely satisfying fish sandwiches (or fritto misto or fried chicken). The open air comes with advantages: Gas grills can be dialed into a steady temperature for frying, there won’t be oil splatters on the cabinets or lingering fish aromas, and you’ll fall even more in love with your cast-iron skillet. Fried Fish Sandwiches with Cucumbers and Tartar Sauce 4 SERVINGS For the best results, use hake, pollock, or cod for this sandwich. 2 Tbsp. Old Bay seasoning1…

The recently opened lakeside location of one of the world’s best restaurants is bigger and more elaborate, for sure. But the most breathtaking upgrade here is the amount of sunlit kitchen and lab space created for René Redzepi’s staff. As a result, the already-exceptional crew is firing on even more cylinders. Reservations open on a rolling basis for the seasonal menus (seafood until midsummer, vegetables next, then game come fall). Try your luck, and be sure to get on the wait list for cancellations.…

Romesco Pasta Salad with Basil and Parmesan 8 SERVINGS The reason this salad holds up so well at room temperature is because you dress it twice. It absorbs the first round of dressing completely, the second addition keeps it glossy, and a fistful of walnuts and breadcrumbs means there’s always something to bite into. 1 cup raw walnuts3 oz. country-style bread, crust removed, cut into 1" pieces (about 1½ cups)4 whole roasted red peppers from a jarZest and juice of 1 lemon2 garlic cloves1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes, divided½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oilKosher salt1 lb. fusilli giganti (large spiral-shaped pasta) or medium shell pasta1 lb. mixed ripe tomatoes, cut into bite-size pieces (about 3 cups)4 oz. Parmesan, finely chopped1 cup basil leaves, torn if large Preheat oven…

Growler Usually a 32- or 64-ounce bottle with a screw-on or flip-top cap, a growler keeps draught beer fresh for up to four days and should be consumed all in one sitting, before the beer loses carbonation. Crowler If you’re thinking this just looks like a giant can, you’re 100 percent right. These 32-ounce aluminum cans are filled from a tap and capped by a special machine, keeping beer fresh for up to a few weeks. Pressurized Growler Insulated and fitted with a CO2 canister, a pressurized growler stores and pours beer like a mini keg, keeping it fresh for as long as you can make it last. Equal parts effective and impressive.…

Charred Cabbage with Goat Cheese Raita and Cucumbers 4 SERVINGS Go hard when charring the cabbage wedges—to the point you might think you did something wrong. They are dense and resilient and need a long time on the grill to soften. 1 garlic clove, smashed4 oz. fresh goat cheese1½ cups plain whole-milk Greek yogurt2 cups mint leaves, divided2 cups parsley leaves with tender stems, divided2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil,plus more for drizzling2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided Kosher salt1 medium head of purple cabbage(about 2½ lb.)3 Persian cucumbers, thinly sliced½ cup crushed Corn NutsAleppo-style pepper (for serving) Pulse garlic, goat cheese, yogurt, 1 cup mint, 1 cup parsley, 2 Tbsp. oil, and 1 Tbsp. lemon juice in a food processor until smooth and pale green. Transfer raita to a medium…

“The first ingredient in grilling is patience,” says Francis Mallmann, the Argentinian chef whose live-fire cooking style is revered by flame - obsessed chefs the world over. Whether he’s cooking a whole side of beef over burning logs on his private island in Patagonia (yes, really) or simply sizzling a side of mushrooms, the Seven Fires author has learned that the best results come when you take your time. One of his specialties: a 12-hour grilled whole pineapple, which he offers as a seasonal dessert at Los Fuegos in Miami Beach. “Every hour I’ll dip it into a pineapple syrup with cinnamon as it cooks so it gets toasted and caramelized,” he says. The end result is fruit so meltingly tender you can eat it down to the core, Mallmann’s…