Indholdsfortegnelse for August 2018 i Bon Appetit

LIVE A LITTLE Does the idea of sucking from a twisty straw make you cringe? “Steer into the skid and embrace it,” says Owen Thomson of D.C.’s Archipelago. “Ninety-nine percent of the time people will look at your drink with jealousy. People usually see someone’s flashy bowl on fire and say, ‘I don’t even need the menu—just give me that.’” CONSULT THE PROFESSIONALS These drinks can be deceptively alcoholic. “Ask about ABV [alcohol by volume],” says Chris Elford of Navy Strength in Seattle. “Some people are trying to get their swerve on; some just want to enjoy the night.” LOOK BUT DON’T TOUCH “I have to tell people not to touch or drink the dry ice, which seems like common sense, but all of my bartenders have to say it,”…

Chicken Cobb Salad 4 SERVINGS 6 large eggs, room temperature4 oz. bacon (about 4 slices)2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard1 tsp. sugar¼ cup extra-virgin olive oilKosher salt, freshly ground pepper8 cups coarsely torn frisée1½ rotisserie chicken, meat pulled from bones and shredded (about 2 cups)2 large beefsteak and/or heirloom tomatoes,2 cut into wedges1 ripe avocado, quartered Bring 8 cups water to a boil in a large saucepan. Gently lower eggs into water and boil 7 minutes for medium-set yolks. Immediately transfer eggs to a medium bowl of ice water and chill until cold, about 5 minutes. Peel eggs under running water; set aside. Place bacon in a dry medium skillet and set over medium-low heat. Cook, turning occasionally, until brown and crisp, 8–10 minutes. Transfer…

Ricotta Panna Cotta with Nectarines and Honey 6 SERVINGS 1 envelope unflavored powdered gelatin (about 2. tsp.)Extra-virgin olive oil (for pan and drizzling)2 cups whole-milk fresh ricotta⅓ cup powdered sugar½ tsp. vanilla extract½ tsp. kosher salt1½ cups half-and-half, divided2 large or 3 medium nectarines,1 cut into ½"-thick wedgesHoney (for drizzling) Pour ¼ cup cold water into a small saucepan and sprinkle gelatin evenly over; let sit 10 minutes to soften. Meanwhile, coat a 9"-diameter pie or cake pan with a thin film of oil; set aside. Combine ricotta, powdered sugar, vanilla, salt, and 1 cup half-and-half in a food processor. When gelatin is softened, add remaining ½ cup half-and-half to saucepan and set over low heat. Cook, stirring with a heatproof spatula, until gelatin is completely dissolved (do not let…

Cold Roast Lamb with Marinated Eggplant 8–10 SERVINGS Pop the garlic-and-rosemary-rubbed leg of lamb and the eggplant spears into the oven together and they’ll be done at the same time. 8 garlic cloves3 Tbsp. coarsely chopped rosemary1 Tbsp. cumin seeds2 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling1 5–6-lb. boneless leg of lamb, tied12 small Italian eggplants (5–6 lb.)Freshly ground black pepper12 shallots, peeledMaster Vegetable Marinade (see recipe)1½ cups parsley leaves with tender stemsFlaky sea saltLemony Yogurt Sauce and/or Grilled Serrano Salsa Verde (see recipes on p.62) Pulse garlic, rosemary, cumin seeds, and 2 Tbsp. kosher salt in a food processor until finely chopped. Pour in ¼ cup oil and pulse again until a paste forms. Place lamb on a rimmed baking sheet and…

Hug Your Farmer I try to be friendly with the vendors—a little bit goes a long way. Engage with them, ask questions. There’s a farmer I chat with about tomatoes. I told him I grow this variety he hadn’t heard of, so one day I brought them by. I was in. But that’s like the fifth date. Start small and build from there. Eventually, if they know you’ll be expecting corn, they’ll set some aside. When they’re sold out, you’ll still have yours because of those little gestures. —BRAD LEONE Like at a breakfast buffet or when choosing a spouse, always do a lap before committing to anything. It’s Not Just About Produce More and more I find that there are really good meat and fish stands selling stuff that’s…

Rice Noodles al Pomodoro with Chili Oil 4 SERVINGS The mere inclusion of chili oil and rice noodles completely upends the typical Italian flavor profile. Kosher salt12 oz. wide rice noodles¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced1 Fresno chile or red jalapeño, thinly sliced2 large sprigs basil, plus torn leaves for serving3 pints cherry tomatoes, halved if largeChili oil and toasted sesame seeds (for serving) Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Remove from heat; add noodles. Let sit, stirring occasionally, until al dente, about 4 minutes (time may vary by brand). Drain and rinse under cold running water. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium. Cook garlic, stirring often, until softened and golden, about 3 minutes. Add chile and basil sprigs;…

Pour one out for the Age of Serious Cocktails. Elegant coupes have given way to gaudy scorpion bowls, bartenders are ditching speakeasy-style suspenders in favor of awesomely ostentatious Hawaiian shirts, and drinks are less likely to be infused with essence of fir than with a glug of Coco López. And we say: Can I get another mai tai? Join us at the new tropical restaurants and bars bringing happiness back to happy hour.…

Bob’s Clam Hut in Kittery, ME, does a strong hustle every summer, feeding Route 1 travelers all the fried goods they’ve driven so far for. The Hut is staffed mainly by students riding high on the spirit of summer break and lobster rolls. We spoke to Parker Sikora, Colby College student and model employee, on what life is like behind the counter. • What were you looking for in a summer job? I joined the team in May 2015. I reached out to a friend who was working at Bob’s already. She was actually my prom date her senior year. I said, “Why do you go back to this place every summer?” And she was like, “Come find out.” • How do you deal with the seafood smell? There’s a…

I believe a wise man once asked, “Still or sparkling?” And the rest of us flittered our fingernails against the table and replied, “Ooh, sparkling!” Now look where we are. There are more varieties of sparkling water than there are elements in the periodic table. Twitter wars have erupted over the best brands to consume. Taste-offs have been held in kitchens and offices across America. Bubble size, receptacle design, types of fruit flavorings and how to say them in French: All of this matters now, in ways that only future historians will be able to explain. But if 2017 was all about LaCroix and Topo Chico, 2018 will go down as the year we moved far, far beyond the binary. We’re talking small-batch, artisanally flavored, hyper-regional H2Os hailing from every…

Grilled Pork Chops with Plums, Halloumi, and Lemon 4 SERVINGS 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more1 tsp. honey4 bone-in pork rib chops (about 1" thick), patted dryKosher salt, freshly ground pepper4 ripe medium red or black plums (about 1 lb.), halved1 lemon, halved, seeds removed8 oz. Halloumi cheese,1 sliced into ½"-thick planks2 Tbsp. torn oregano leavesAleppo-style pepper or crushed red pepper flakes (for serving) Prepare a grill for medium-high heat; oil grate.2 Combine honey and 2 Tbsp. oil in a large resealable plastic bag. Season pork chops generously with salt and pepper and add to bag. Seal, pressing out air, and massage chops to coat. Place plums, lemon, and Halloumi on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with 2 Tbsp. oil; toss to coat. Season plums and lemon…

1 – IRON AGE Cook 2 husked medium ears of corn and 1 poblano chile in a dry medium cast-iron skillet over high heat, turning occasionally, until corn is charred in spots and chile is blistered all over, 10–14 minutes. 2 – HOT SHAVE Move corn and chile to a cutting board and let cool for a minute or two. Lay corn flat and slice along one side to shave off kernels; Repeat, rotating cob, until all kernels have been cut off. Discard cobs. 3 – DO THE MASH Transfer corn to a medium bowl and crush with a potato masher or wooden spoon to help corn release starch and juices, which will help to thicken the salsa slightly. (Also a good way to get out a little aggression.) 4…

Watermelon with Lime Dressing and Peanuts 4 SERVINGS To achieve those super-relaxed not-quite-a-cube irregular watermelon shapes, see our slicing tips in Prep School, p.98. 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice1 Tbsp. fish sauce1½ tsp. sugar2 sprigs basil, plus leaves for serving½ 6-lb. baby seedless watermelon, rind removed, flesh cut into irregular bite-size pieces (about 6 cups)¼ cup salted, dry-roasted peanuts2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oilFlaky sea salt Stir lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, and 1 Tbsp. water in a large bowl until sugar is dissolved. Lightly crush 2 basil sprigs by scrunching up in your hand and add to dressing along with watermelon; toss gently until coated. Transfer watermelon salad to a platter, leaving basil sprigs behind. Top with peanuts and basil leaves, drizzle with oil, and season with salt. Peaches and…

Spicy Steak Salad Wraps 4 SERVINGS Corn nuts are lovable for many reasons, but their primary role here is to add salt, crunch, and sweet toasty flavors to each bite. Corn chips, Fritos, or even kettle-style potato chips would be excellent understudies should the need for a different option arise. 2 garlic cloves, finely grated1¼ tsp. sugar3 Tbsp. adobo (from a can of chipotles in adobo), divided3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, divided3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided1 lb. skirt steak, cut crosswise into 3 equal pieces¾ tsp. kosher salt, plus moreFreshly ground black pepper¾ cup plain Greek yogurt2 small or 1 large head of iceberg lettuce, leaves separated, covered, chilled6 radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced, covered, chilledCilantro leaves with tender stems and lime wedges (for serving)½ cup lightly crushed corn nuts…

Antipasto Salad 4 SERVINGS Long sweet peppers show up at farmers’ markets during the peak of the season and may be sold as long sweet yellow, sweet banana, Hungarian Sweet, or Cubanelle. You can substitute two medium red, orange, or yellow bell peppers (don’t use the green ones). 1 garlic clove, finely grated⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil¼ cup red wine vinegar½ tsp. crushed dried oreganoPinch of crushed red pepper flakes3 Italian long sweet peppers, thinly sliced into rounds1 small red onion, thinly sliced, rinsed1 14-oz. can artichoke hearts, drained, patted dry, halved1 8-oz. ball fresh mozzarella, torn into pieces4 oz. salami, preferably fennel, thinly slicedKosher salt, freshly ground pepper1 lemon2 cups basil leaves Mix garlic, oil, vinegar, oregano, and red pepper flakes in a large bowl. Add sweet peppers, onion,…

FROM P. 73 THAT’S RAD The world of radishes expands way beyond those round red ones you always see at the grocery store. Hit the farmers’ market and you’re likely to find an explosive array of green, purple, and white varieties, each with its own personality and flavor. Here’s our mini guide to a few types you might encounter on the way. —CHRISTINA CHAEY A. GREEN MEAT This variety from northern China is like a regular daikon but smaller and denser with Kermit-green flesh. B. DAIKON These mild long white radishes are available at many Asian markets and are especially good for pickling. C. PURPLE DAIKON The psychedelic deep violet and white colors make this a pretty addition to any shaved salad or crudités platter. D. FRENCH BREAKFAST Treat these…

Let’s get this out of the way: Mandy Moore does own a Crock-Pot, but unlike you she did not throw it out the window after the popular slow cooker became television’s unlikeliest villain on the second season of Moore’s hit TV show This Is Us. But since summer in SoCal isn’t what you’d call ideal chicken chili weather, Moore is perfectly happy to seek her no-fuss meals elsewhere. “A piece of salmon from the farmers’ market, a little bit of olive oil, salt and pepper, put it in a pan—the minimum amount of work,” says the Golden Globe nominee and star of this month’s sci-fi thriller The Darkest Minds. “I prefer sockeye if possible, but I’ll do a big piece of king salmon too. I’m not picky, but quality is…

BURNING QUESTION Does This Shirt Make Me Look Like Tom Selleck? “Pick your Hawaiian shirt like you would your favorite pair of jeans. Tight or baggy? Vibrant or faded? I prefer mine loose-fitting with a wrinkled collar, good color, and a bold print, soft and worn-in as if I stole it off Magnum P.I.’s back. For the Pool Burger squad, we source an array of old and new Hawaiian shirts. Big ups to Two Palms out of Honolulu!” —RYAN SMITH, CREATIVE DIRECTOR, McGUIRE MOORMAN HOSPITALITY, AUSTIN BUY THIS RUM “The thing I love about Plantation Pineapple Stiggins’ Fancy Rum ($35) is that you get a nice pineapple flavor, but it’s not overly sweet or artificial. I’ll use it in place of white or aged rum in a daiquiri or swap…

THE 360 It’s not often that your fashion friends and arthritic grandfather get obsessed with the same thing, but suddenly everyone we know is talking up CBD, a.k.a. cannabidiol. The chemical component found in marijuana and hemp is non-psychoactive—in other words, it won’t get you high—but still delivers the relaxing sensation that pot is known for. And that’s why it’s showing up, oh, everywhere, from face serums to organic chocolates. CBD, MEET FDA Cannabis has long been used for treatment, from 19th-century tales of Queen Victoria using CBD-rich tinctures for cramps to a controversial 2012 case in which a five-year-old was treated for seizures with CBD oil. FAST-FORWARD TO TODAY The Food and Drug Administration unanimously voted to recommend approval of Epidiolex in April—the first-ever prescription CBD medicine, which would…

Skillet Cod, Clams, and Corn with Parsley 4 SERVINGS 1. lb. skinless cod fillet, cut into 4 pieces, patted dryKosher salt, freshly ground pepper⅓ cup all-purpose flour4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided1 large shallot, finely chopped⅓ cup dry white wine12 littleneck clams, scrubbed2 medium ears of corn, kernels cut from cobs (1–1. cups)3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces¼ cup chopped parsley Lemon wedges (for serving) Season cod all over with salt and pepper. Sprinkle flour over a large plate and, working one at a time, press side of fillet where skin used to be into flour to thoroughly coat.1 Tap off excess and set on a platter, flour side up. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick skillet with a tight-fitting lid over medium. Cook cod, floured side…

Cucumber and Melon Salad with Chile and Honey 4 SERVINGS ¼ cup raw pistachios1½ jalapeño or Fresno chile, thinly sliced2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar1 tsp. honey3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oilKosher salt, freshly ground pepper1 English hothouse cucumber, halved crosswise, then halved lengthwise, seeds scooped out with a spoon¼ medium ripe honeydew melon or cantaloupe, rind removed5 oz. ricotta salata (salted dry ricotta) or feta½ cup basil leaves Preheat oven to 350°. Toast pistachios on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown, 7–9 minutes. Let cool, then finely chop 2 Tbsp. pistachios. Leave remaining nuts whole; set aside. Whisk chopped pistachios, chile, vinegar, and honey in a small bowl. Gradually stream in oil, whisking constantly until emulsified; generously season dressing with salt and pepper. Using a mandoline,2 shave cucumber…

Drizzling olive oil over savory fruits like tomatoes is second nature. But put it on watermelon and people start to think you’ve lost your mind. Consider this: Olives and watermelons are both fruits, and just as vegetable-driven salads need fat to balance salt and acid, fruit salads crave the mouth-coating richness of oil to complement their sweetness and acidity. Olive oil is ideal since it brings a sharp aromatic flavor of its own that carries other savory ingredients, like nutty sharp cheeses and spicy sauces. Look for lighter, grassy oils to avoid overwhelming your fruits, but even a bold, peppery one can play nice with whatever you care to throw at it.…

THE LETTUCE Choose something sturdy that you can down in a couple of bites, whether that’s Little Gem or butter lettuce or torn collard greens or Swiss chard. Store washed leaves in the salad spinner until you’re ready to eat to keep them crisp. THE PROTEIN The only rule here is to keep it bite-size. Shrimp, cut-up bacon strips, and thinly sliced steak are staples, but any ground meat is great too. If you have time, it’s worth making a quick marinade for even more flavor. THE SAUCE If you’re making a marinade for your protein, reserve some sauce for drizzling over the finished wraps. No marinade? Whisk some yogurt or mayo with lemon juice, grated garlic, black pepper, and/or hot sauce. THE HERBS A handful of tender herbs like…

Coconut-Strawberry Ice Cream Pie 8–10 SERVINGS When a crunchy salted press-in crust and swirly fruity ice cream team up, everyone wins. It’s pie without baking and an ice cream sundae without the fuss. Success can be yours—just keep everything cold as you go. CRUST1 cup unsweetened shredded coconut6 oz. graham crackers½ cup virgin coconut oil¾ tsp. kosher saltNonstick vegetable oil spray FILLING AND ASSEMBLY2 pints coconut ice cream or gelato (not dairy-free)2 pints strawberry ice cream or gelato6 oz. strawberries, hulled, halved, quartered if large1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice1 Tbsp. sugar CRUST Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°. Toast coconut on a rimmed baking sheet until golden brown, 3–5 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes. Place graham crackers in a large resealable plastic bag, seal, and crush…

SHOPPING LIST DINNER IS A MEAL BEST SERVED COLD pp. 58–64 P. 59 VAYU PLANTER $620; lightandladder.com P. 60 CUTTING BOARD $135; hawkinsnewyork.com WRAP. EAT. REPEAT. pp. 76–82 P. 77 GRAY CERAMIC PLATTER $75; shop-generalstore.com TRAVEL PLANNER STARTERS pp. 11–26 ACACIA HOUSE 1915 Main St., St. Helena, CA; 707-963-9004; lasalcobasnapavalley.com/napa-valley-restaurants ARCHIPELAGO 1201 U St. NW, Washington, D.C.; 202-627-0794; archipelagobardc.com BOB’S CLAM HUT 315 US Route 1, Kittery, ME; 207-439-4233; bobsclamhut.com EMMY SQUARED For locations, go to emmysquared.com GRACIAS MADRE 8905 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, CA; 323-978-2170; graciasmadreweho.com HAI HAI 2121 University Ave. NE, Minneapolis; 612-223-8640; haihaimpls.com LIL’ DEB’S OASIS 747 Columbia St., Hudson, NY; 518-828-4307; lildebsoasis.com LITTLE GIANT 211 Danforth St., Portland, ME; 207-747-5045; littlegiantmaine.com LITTLE JACK’S TAVERN 710 King St., Charleston, SC; 843-531-6868; littlejackstavern.com LITTLE PEARL 921 Pennsylvania Ave.…