Indholdsfortegnelse for September 2018 i Bon Appetit

I’m not always in the mood for booze, but that doesn’t mean I just want…water. Enter gazoz, a refreshing drink made with sparkling water, fruit syrup, and fresh herbs. Think of it as a nonalcoholic spritzer that uses seasonal (and often trendy) ingredients like lemon verbena (spotted at Studio at the Freehand in NYC), Concord grape and thyme (Golda in Brooklyn), or quince and fennel (Bala Baya in London). Gazoz isn’t a new creation—it was popular in Israel in the 1950’s—but it’s a natural menu addition as all-day restaurants and Middle Eastern–influenced spots continue to open in droves. You know how cold-pressed juice had its moment in 2013? I’m hoping we’re on the verge of The Year of Gazoz. Especially if that means I get to have a craft cocktail…

• At Frenchette you serve natural wines exclusively. Why? Contemporary French food pops more with these wines because of the high acidity, low alcohol, and not-so-grippy tannins. The wine doesn’t overtake the food; it’s refreshing. It brightens the dishes and cuts through the richness. • Your wine list is very international. What are you most excited about now? The wines coming out of Catalonia, and Spain in general. They are really pushing back against the Americanization of wine from the ’80s and ’90s, making it in a more traditional way and forgoing highly extracted vanilla-scented wines for fresher, more energetic flavors. They’re taking a lot of risks. • What country are we overlooking? Georgia. Their wines can be intimidating because they have such a range of names we have no…

In the past, if a restaurant had great branding, I might buy a T-shirt. These days I find myself standing outside after a meal, holding a sticker, a hat, a magnet, and a tote bag, asking myself, “Should I run back in to grab another matchbook?” When did restaurant design get so compelling? Not sure, but I do know that most of my favorite swag comes from one place: Office of Brothers, the Atlanta design agency founded by Alvin Diec and Travis Ekmark. Their quirky illustrations and scripted typefaces have a casual elegance as satisfying as the food served by their clients, which include Asheville’s Buxton Hall Barbecue (a BA Hot 10 alum), Atlanta’s Golden Eagle, and Rose Foods of Portland, Maine. You might think that Office of Brothers has…

Cold Udon with Grapefruit Ponzu Heat broiler. Squeeze 1 halved grapefruit and 1 halved lemon into a fine-mesh sieve set over a large bowl; discard pulp (you should have a little more than ½ cup juice). Add 1 red chile (such as Fresno), seeds removed, finely chopped, one 2" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated, ⅓ cup unseasoned rice vinegar, 3 Tbsp. soy sauce, and 1 tsp. sugar and mix well. Cover ponzu and chill. Toss 2 pints cherry tomatoes, 1 finely grated garlic clove, 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, and a pinch of salt on a rimmed baking sheet. Broil until tomatoes are soft and charred in spots, 10–12 minutes. Let cool. Cook 18 oz. frozen udon noodles according to package directions. Drain and rinse under cold water. Transfer to…

“I skip the mandoline and just use a sharp knife to quickly turn raw kohlrabi into elegant slices.”—ANNA STOCKWELL, SENIOR FOOD EDITOR Crispy Fish with Brown Butter Sauce and Kohlrabi Salad 4 SERVINGS 1 tsp. honey¼ cup plus 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more2 small kohlrabi, peeled, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise1 large green apple, cut into quarters lengthwise, thinly sliced lengthwise½ red onion, thinly sliced4 5–6-oz. skin-on Chilean sea bass or salmon filletsFreshly ground black pepper½ cup coarsely chopped blanched hazelnuts6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into piecesLemon wedges (for serving) Whisk honey, ¼ cup lemon juice, 2 Tbsp. oil, and 1 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Add kohlrabi, apple, and onion and toss to coat. Let sit while you…

We’re the black sheep of Jewish delis. Because we’re not really a deli. We don’t do stuff by the pound, we have liquor, and we’re open a little later. Other modern delis have popped up, but a lot of them were just changing the deli aesthetic, going light and bright—minimalist design with subway tile. They weren’t looking at the food and saying, “Where can we innovate? Where can we bring this idea of Jewish food to another level?” That’s where we got excited. We didn’t want the food to become sentimental or nostalgic. I grew up going to delis with my grandfather in Toronto. Sour pickles are staples of Jewish cooking, but I find them boring. Thus, the half-sour salad was born. It’s avocado, fennel, and green goddess dressing. Our…

“I wanted to do a chopped salad, but I asked myself, How does this work with the ethos of our restaurant? My idea was: Keep the essence of the chopped salad—the chickpeas, the salami, the cheese, the dressing—but have everything else rotate around whatever’s growing locally.”—DAVID NAYFELD, CHEF Che Fico Chopped Salad 4 SERVINGS The dressing and assembled ingredients alone make this salad a star. But the extra effort of cooking the vegetables is worth it we promise! VEGETABLES 1 small kabocha or acorn squash (2–3 lb.)2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice4 tsp. honey3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper8 oz. brussels sprouts, trimmed, halved2 Tbsp. unsalted butter2 sprigs thyme1 sprig rosemary1 garlic clove, lightly crushed2 Tbsp. white balsamic vinegar VINAIGRETTE ¼ cup red wine vinegar1 Tbsp.…

While eating our way across the country in search of the best new restaurants (see page 69), we picked up a few new obsessions, from ultra-refreshing shaved ice to giant cuts of meat to skin-contact wines. These are the dishes, drinks, and ingredients we got hooked on this year If a restaurant’s not decked out in crazy wallpaper, would you even notice it? Read on for more of our favorite patterns, like this one from Che Fico (page 100) in San Francisco.…

It’s not that we’re over ice cream (we’re not monsters). It’s just that there’s another frozen dessert in town—all over town, really. Shaved ice (or shave ice, depending on who you talk to) is showing up across the country, from powdery Japanese-style kakigōri to layered, paper-thin sheets of Taiwanese bao bing. There are renditions that stay close to tradition and others that riff (take, for example, the local Tcho chocolate you can sprinkle on top of your shaved snow at Powder in San Francisco). There’s the stacked-high Filipino halo-halo with fresh fruit, evaporated milk, ice cream, and other toppings like sweetened beans. There are New Orleans sno-balls—like a snow cone but fluffier—far outside NOLA. No matter the kind, we know one thing for sure: We’re not exactly missing the mint…

1 BREAD Akabori plans to make his own Japanese milk bread in the future, but for now he relies on Andersen Bakery’s cottony white loaf. He uses an electric knife for even slices and leaves the bread untoasted. “You have the crispy pork and crunchy cabbage, so you need soft bread to give it some balance,” he says. 2 MEAT Chefs are giving crazy-expensive Wagyu beef the katsu treatment, but Akabori prefers pork loin for quick cooking (and our wallets thank him). He marinates tender Duroc in soy sauce, smashed garlic, mirin, and toasted black peppercorns. 3 COATING Crunch is elusive with any sandwich and hot katsu can get soggy fast. But Akabori has a secret weapon: two kinds of breading. He rips and fries Andersen bread scraps and combines…

In online dream interpretation circles, the symbol of steak is a bit of a duh: It represents dominance, power, and your brutish animal instincts. Consider that the next time you feast on a large-format meat, something we devoured at a handful of new restaurants this year. Majordomo, David Chang’s bumpin’ Los Angeles debut, offers a whole short rib that’s outgrown a plate and arrives on a cutting board with three protruding bones like the dental work of a saber-toothed tiger. Maydan in D.C. presents a lamb shoulder with a giant knife pierced through the center, the sword in the stone. Have at it, beasties. (No, really: The recipe is on page 83.) At Cote, a smash-hit Korean steakhouse in New York, you can eyeball the gangster 1 10-day-aged porterhouse via…

Organizations and restaurants dedicated to hiring folks with what would typically be seen as barriers to employment, like refugee status, a criminal record, or a history of addiction or homelessness, are popping up across the country. “Consumers care a lot more about what is going on in the kitchens,” says Kerry Brodie, the founder of Emma’s Torch, a new Brooklyn restaurant that provides culinary education and job placement for recently resettled refugees. “The types of values that a restaurant supports are in some ways more important than what’s on their menu.” We chatted with employees of four of these restaurants to hear their stories. “I love challenges, but coming to America was hard. In Vietnam I worked with children in nonprofit organizations. When I got to New York, I had…

“Put fresh corncobs to use! They’re full of flavorful ‘milk’ that amps up risotto, chowder, or muffin batter.”—MOLLY BAZ, SENIOR ASSOCIATE FOOD EDITOR Pan-Seared Scallops with Chorizo and Corn 4 SERVINGS 3 ears of corn, husked3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided2 oz. smoked Spanish chorizo, finely chopped12 scallions, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced½–1 serrano chile (depending on heat), finely chopped¾ tsp. kosher salt, plus more1 cup buttermilk⅓ cup chopped cilantro12 large sea scallops (about 1 lb.), side muscle removed, patted dry2 Tbsp. unsalted butter1 lime, halvedLime wedges (for serving) Cut kernels from corncobs and place in a medium bowl. Using the back of a chef’s knife, scrape milk from cobs into the bowl; discard cobs. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium saucepan…

1―BIG RED Place 2 lb. perfectly ripe large tomatoes (about 3) on a cutting board. Cut around the cores to remove, then cut flesh into roughly ½" pieces. (A serrated knife is ideal for this.) Transfer to a medium bowl. 2―MARINATION NATION Add 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar, a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes, and ½ tsp. kosher salt to bowl and toss well; let marinate 15–20 minutes so everything can get nice and juicy. 3―BREAD WINNER Cut four ¾"-thick slices of bread from the center of a country-style loaf (day-old makes the best toast because it’s slightly dried out). Heat a dry grill pan, griddle, or large cast-iron skillet over medium-high. 4―SO TOASTED Grill bread in hot pan in a single layer, turning…

When it comes to making Thai food, Sirichai Sreparplarn doesn’t compromise. “The only way to tone down the heat is to dilute it,” he says, “which I refuse to do.” Walk into Ugly Baby on a Saturday night and you’ll find his tiny restaurant packed with diners sweating and crying (literally) from the profusion of chiles found in each dish. But the atmosphere is pure fun. “I believe heat is like a drug,” Sreparplarn says with a sly smile. “It’s painful, but you want more, more, more.” Here, he gives us the six keys to mastering the art of Thai heat. 1 Curry Paste Is the Foundation of Everything “It’s my belief that curry paste is the key to Thai cooking. It is the base of almost all my dishes.…

The Noodle Soup That Started It All I was born in a refugee camp in Thailand after my parents fled the genocide in Cambodia in the 1970s. I was two years old when I came to the States. But even though I had never been to Cambodia, I was still connected to the country because of the stories I heard growing up. I always had this longing to go—well, I want to say go “back” to Cambodia since it felt so familiar to me. The first time I went back, I had just dropped out of nursing school after realizing it wasn’t for me. I was 23 or 24. It was so trippy. Everywhere I went I was like, Wow, these are all the foods I grew up eating. This…

WHY I LOVE IT “Yes, it serves just one dish. Yes, there are only a few counter seats. But after one bite of the profoundly flavorful niku udon—made with the silkiest homemade noodles I’ve ever slurped—it won’t matter. You’ll tell all your friends about it, and then they’ll tell their friends and…wait…let’s keep this between us. Cool?”—ANDREW KNOWLTON…

TRAVEL PLANNER STARTERS pp. 11–34 BALA BAYA Arch 25, Old Union Yard Arches, 229 Union St., London; +44-20-8001-7015; balabaya.co.uk BAR ARBOLADA 637 W. Main St., Oklahoma City; 405-601-8659; facebook.com/bararbolada BAVEL 500 Mateo St., Los Angeles; 213-232-4966; baveldtla.com BONSAI KAKIGŌRI 265 Canal St., NYC; 646-308-1244; bonsaikakigori.com CAFÉ DU PAYS 233 Cardinal Medeiros Ave., Cambridge, MA; 617-314-7297; cafedupays.com CANARD 734 E. Burnside St., Portland, OR; 971-279-2356; canardpdx.com CHE FICO 838 Divisadero St., San Francisco; 415-416-6959; chefico.com COSA BUONA 2100 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; 213-908-5211; cosabuona.com COTE 16 W. 22nd St., NYC; 212-401-7986; cotenyc.com COURIER COFFEE ROASTERS 923 SW Oak St., Portland, OR; 503-545-6444; couriercoffeeroasters.com DESSERT CAFE MOMO 5525 Monkland Ave., Montreal; 514-567-5099; dessertcafemomo.com DETROIT STREET FILLING STATION 300 Detroit St., Ann Arbor, MI; 734-224-2161; thelunchrooma2.com DV8 KITCHEN 867 S. Broadway, Ste.…

“I’m the chef. But really I’m a connector, a liaison, a platform. I want each pop-up to hold space for a family member I’ve learned from.”—ANYA PETERS, FOUNDER OF KIT AN’ KIN The pop-up used to be the resourceful chef’s restaurant—a means for young cooks to sidestep the hurdles associated with a brick-and-mortar and prove themselves to the public. But in 2018 pop-ups aren’t merely a precursor; they’re the format of choice for a generation of chefs with broader ambitions. Whether at a pop-up by Danny Newberg (who dropped out of the NYC fine-dining scene to host dinners under the name Joint Venture) or the I-Collective (a community of indigenous chefs and activists who collaborate on events), some of the most compelling meals we had this year were as ephemeral…

QUALITY OVER QUANTITY Good news for the indecisive: By-the-glass wine lists are becoming more concise and curated, as at L’Oursin in Seattle and Elle in Washington, D.C. And what do shorter lists mean? That’s right: fresher pours. Decant? Yes, You Can (and Should!) If you think decanters are antiquated glass sculptures made for collecting dust, then come to Los Angeles. Pop by Cosa Buona, where your natural Syrah will be decanted into an unpretentious beaker. Or Bavel, where wine comes in a handmade jug from Lebanon. Decanters are cool again, and I couldn’t be happier. These babies will aerate your natural wine and help blow off volatile acidity, notes of reduction, or signs of secondary fermentation, taking a bottle from seemingly flawed to downright fantastic. SKIN-CONTACT IS THE NEW ORANGE…

The real MVP of 2018? The trusty mandoline. (Sorry, James Harden.) Everywhere we dined, we saw dish after dish finished in the same mesmerizing way: with cascading coins of thinly shaved something—radishes, beets, you name it. It’s a thing, and we’re into it—not only because shingling satisfies those OCD urges for order (maybe that’s just me) but also because it’s a smart solution for ambitious chefs low on staff and time. Here, chef Jonathan Yao of Kato in Los Angeles explains why. Yao’s favored mandoline? The Benriner. From $24; amazon.com…

There’s a common misperception that springtime, with its variety of tender green shoots, stalks, and pods, is the cook’s season. In fact, there’s no more delicious time to cook than in the weeks-long window between summer and fall. When I go to the farmers’ market here in NYC just after Labor Day, my eyes widen and my jaw slackens. It’s an embarrassment of riches: long tables spilling over with fist-size peaches and plums, fragrant melons, gleaming eggplants and tomatoes, and every type of apple and squash. This is when I—and many other BA staffers—get the most excited to fill up my bags with produce, haul it all back to my kitchen, and start cooking. The recipes we’ve developed this month will inspire you to do just that. Whether you’re making…

“I’m not typically a fan of bell peppers, but when they’re stewed under chicken, I’ll eat a whole pan.”—CLAIRE SAFFITZ, SENIOR FOOD EDITOR Roast Chicken with Bell Peppers, Lemon, and Thyme 4 SERVINGS 4 large bell peppers (any color)1 large shallot, thinly sliced1 Fresno chile, thinly sliced crosswise5 sprigs thyme, dividedKosher salt, freshly ground pepper¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil1 3½–4-lb. chicken, patted dry1 lemon, halved Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 425°. Heat a large ovenproof skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high. Cook bell peppers in skillet, turning every minute or two, until blistered in several spots, about 5 minutes. (You aren’t trying to cook them, just get some color on them.) Transfer bell peppers to a cutting board and let cool slightly; reserve…

When I think of my ideal dessert, I think first of a fruit dessert, then I think of a summer fruit dessert, and, if I dare to dream, I think of a dessert that’s positively bursting with all varieties of the ripest, juiciest fruit possible. Once a year, in late summer on the cusp of early fall, when the farmers’ markets overflow with stone fruit, berries, and apples, this dream becomes a reality. Each of these three straightforward recipes—a custard tart, a lemon cake, and a baked challah number—is a canvas for the glory that is peak summer fruit. The beauty here is that you can use any combination of fruit you want. So bring home whatever looks good to you, dust off your oven, and get back in the…

There’s always a moment when it hits me. It’s usually a single bite and, boom, I fall in love with a restaurant. This time it was a forkful of homemade dan dan noodles. They were tossed with minced fermented turnip greens in a tahini-like pecan sauce, dressed with chili oil, dusted with cucumber powder, and garnished with micro purple basil. It was spicy and cooling, confounding in its simplicity, and immensely satisfying—the type of dish that follows you around for years. The taste was unexpected and complex. Whoever made it was a genius. I was halfway through a ten-course tasting menu in a 22-seat restaurant in a city I’d never set foot in before. It was Thursday, prime time, and the place was all but empty. Dried wild spinach and…

Pound 1 tsp. black peppercorns and 1 tsp. coriander seeds in a large mortar and pestle until finely ground. Trim roots from 2 lemongrass stalks and peel away tough outer layers. Thinly slice, working up each stalk until it is no longer pliant; discard remaining (about the top third). Add lemongrass and 3 Tbsp. finely chopped peeled galangal to mortar and pound to a coarse paste, 6–8 minutes. Add ¾ cup dried Thai chiles,* torn or chopped into small pieces (if you want, soak them in hot water 10–20 minutes to soften and make them easier to work with); pound until pasty, 6–8 minutes. Add 2 small Asian shallots or 1 medium shallot, coarsely chopped, 8 garlic cloves, 5 cilantro roots or 3 Tbsp. thinly sliced thick cilantro stems, and…

August 2014 After working at New York City restaurants—including Reynard, Diner, and Marlow & Sons—for a decade, Orenda and Peter Hale decide to get out of town. They dream of doing their own thing: a little café. On a whim they head to Portland, Maine, new and unfamiliar turf for both of them. Fried-Bread Panzanella with Ricotta and Herbs 4 SERVINGS Frying thick slices of bread in olive oil on only one side gives you a magical combination of crisp and soft so that the bread can soak up the tomato juices without getting soggy. 6 oz. fresh ricotta, preferably sheep’s milk6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzlingFlaky sea saltFreshly ground black pepper2 large heirloom tomatoes, cut into 1½" pieces½ small shallot, finely chopped½ small garlic clove, finely…

Anna Kendrick has found the holy grail of cocktails. Her take on the drink known as the Quarter Horse will “get you tipsy quickly but never give you a hangover,” the actress explains. “It’s the dream. I’m living the dream!” She dubs the “half Moscow Mule, half Old Fashioned” (bourbon, lime, simple syrup, ginger beer, and bitters) an ideal drink for parties because it can be all stirred together in one glass. “There’s no muddling or shaking it in a mixer. You just pour it in a glass and put some ice over it, and it tastes incredible, like a proper shaken cocktail. There are fewer dishes to do after you’re done making it,” she raves. “Sometimes it feels very chic to be using a cocktail shaker, but sometimes you’re…