Indholdsfortegnelse for November 2018 i Bon Appetit

I AM GOING TO propose something radical: Next time you’re having people over, resist the lure of the premade-antipasti bar—you know, the trough of dried-herb-smothered olives glistening beneath a sneeze guard at your grocery store. Instead, pull out some semi-homemade vibes and MIY (marinate it yourself). First, pick the thing you’re going to marinate: a classic like canned butter beans or olives or jarred artichoke hearts, a cheese like feta or goat, or a simple roasted veg (peppers, mushrooms). Warm a generous amount of olive oil—enough that whatever you’re marinating can swim in it—in a small pot over low heat and add aromatics like crushed garlic, dried chiles, or citrus peels. Let it simmer a few minutes, just enough to infuse the oil. Remove from heat, let cool slightly, and…

THIS IS THE PART when I’m supposed to recommend easy-drinking Pinot Noir or Gamay because it’s Thanksgiving. But this year I’m not. With wine you can veer from tradition a bit more easily than the time you snuck jalapeño into the cornbread stuffing and Aunt Annette nearly had an aneurysm. So let me introduce you to the Thanksgiving wine of 2018: Poulsard. Poulsard (sometimes spelled Ploussard) is a lesser-known but totally delicious red wine from France’s Jura region. For years the grape was mostly used for blends because its light body and pale color weren’t as “powerful” as other French red varieties, the equivalent of always being seated at the kids’ table because your politics aren’t “strong” enough for the grown-ups’. It’s cloudy garnet in color, echoing the crimson cranberry…

Boot Café Set in an old shoe-repair shop in the Marais, this spot is all about outdoor seating and espresso. Caoua This “coffee stop” alongside Canal Saint-Martin goes full-bore on le brunch (avocado toast, six-minute eggs). Great coffee too! Cravan With a picturesque breakfast and correct coffee drinks, this gorgeous café is our antidote to too much cool. Télescope Paris’ OG third-wave coffee bar in the 1st is still going strong, with pour-overs made with rare Scandinavian beans. Ten Belles This minuscule café in the 10th is as serious about coffee as it is about food and—amen—bread.…

THERE’S ALWAYS been a story to tell at Hotel Clermont. According to Atlanta lore, Al Capone once hid out in a room, and punk rocker GG Allin may or may not have died in another. In the basement sits the Clermont Lounge, Atlanta’s first and longest-operating strip club. Formerly a swank dinner-and-a-show destination known as the Gypsy Room, it remains today a gritty but historic stronghold, where cash is king and cameras forbidden. Anthony Bourdain visited regularly to see dancer Blondie crush cans with her, ahem, cans. Mumford & Sons got kicked out. Morgan Freeman didn’t. The hotel upstairs eventually fell into disrepair, and health inspectors shut it down in 2009. But nearly a decade later, Hotel Clermont has renovated and reopened with a rooftop bar and a French-American brasserie…

THANKSGIVING BEGINS LONG BEFORE THE TURKEY IS ON THE TABLE. It starts when we’re menu mapping, when we’re grocery shopping, and when we’re picking the kitchen playlist to motivate us while we stare down a truckload of brussels and multiple bags of cranberries. It starts days before The Day, and it’s the cooking—in a family-crammed kitchen with limited oven space—that makes the final feast so worthwhile. For the pure joy of it, and to prove our point, we harnessed the team power of Bon Appétit and our friends and family to cook every dish from this epic dinner together in a house in upstate New York. In true Thanksgiving fashion, the refrigerator overflowed and the cooler came in from the garage as backup; every inch of counter space (plus the…

MY THANKSGIVING bears very little resemblance to the scene you’ll find on the cover of a glossy food magazine. There’s no hulking turkey at the center of the table. No undulations of snowy mashed potatoes. No assorted vegetables studded with bacon. There is, however, always cranberry sauce. Around the time we moved from one suburb of Dallas to another when I was nine years old, my family’s Indian vegetarian Thanksgiving tradition was born. Our new house came with a nice dining room, and my parents purchased a long extendable table with wings. This seemed like cause enough to invite our large contingent of relatives over for Thanksgiving dinner. My mom grew up near New Delhi, so she had few preconceived notions about what Thanksgiving was supposed to look like. She…

ONE YEAR I WENT HOME and discovered where I was: benched. It was the day before Thanksgiving. I had just fetched the rolling pin and barely tied on my apron when my mother looked over her shoulder and told me—casually, like it was no big deal—that Adam, my brother-in-law, had already made the pie dough. It was resting in the freezer. “Adam is doing the pies this year,” she said. Recently, I called up my mother and asked her if she remembered this fateful moment. “I do remember,” she said. (Her voice was calm. I couldn’t believe she was admitting this.) “It was four or five years ago.” It was 11 years ago, but who’s counting? I certainly remember it like it was five minutes ago. I put the flour…

Cornbread Stuffing with Sausage and Collard Greens 10–12 SERVINGS Cubing and lightly toasting the cornbread preps it for maximum flavor absorption without compromising its sturdiness. Buttermilk Cornbread (see recipe)9 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided, plus more for pan2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil1½ lb. hot or sweet Italian sausage, casings removed1 large onion, finely chopped2 celery stalks, finely chopped6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced2 Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary1 Tbsp. kosher salt½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes2 bunches collard greens, stems and ribs removed, leaves torn or cut into 2" pieces1½ cups heavy cream2½ cups low-sodium chicken broth, divided3 large eggs, beaten to blend Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat oven to 300°. Cut cornbread into 1" cubes and divide between 2 large rimmed baking sheets. Toast, turning over halfway through, until outsides…

Umami Gravy MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS Use the turkey neck that comes with your whole bird, and make the gravy start-to-finish the same day as you apply the dry brine. No last-minute gravy panic! 1 Tbsp. (or more) vegetable oil1 turkey neck (reserved from Dry-Rubbed Roast Turkey; see recipe), patted dry1 cup chopped shiitake mushrooms1 medium onion, finely chopped A small handful of rosemary sprigs, thyme sprigs, and/or bay leaves½ cup dry white wine6 cups (or more) low-sodium chicken broth or turkey stock3 Tbsp. unsalted butter¼ cup Wondra or all-purpose flour1 tsp. soy sauce Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high. Cook turkey neck until golden brown all over, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Add mushrooms to the same saucepan and…

SHOPPING LIST THE THANKSGIVING KITCHEN pp. 70–109 P. 71 BERTI 9" CHEF’S KNIFE, $300; match1995.com P. 71 CUTTING BOARD, from $225; herriottgrace.com P. 76 ROLLING PIN, from $80; herriottgrace.com P. 78 PINK EARTHENWARE BOWL, $30; herriottgrace.com P. 88 HAND-CARVED STIRRING SPOON, $185; herriottgrace.com PP. 88–89 FOLDED RIM BOWL, $200; clamlab.com P. 90 RAW SILK SARONG, (similar) $140; youreupstate.com TRAVEL PLANNER HOME pp. 17–46 MARLOW & SONS 81 Broadway, Brooklyn; 718-384-1441; marlowandsons.com DESTINATION: PARIS pp. 49–52 BOOT CAFÉ 19 rue du Pont aux Choux; +33-6-2641-1066; facebook.com/bootcafe CAOUA COFFEE STOP 98 quai de Jemmapes; +33-6-9833-1707; facebook.com/caouacoffee CHAMBRE NOIRE 82 rue de la Folie Méricourt; facebook.com/chambrenoireparis CRAVAN 17 rue de la Fontaine; instagram.com/cravanparis DÉVIANT 39 rue des Petites Écuries; +33-1-4824-6679; vivantparis.com ÉPICERIE BREIZH CAFÉ 111 rue Vieille du Temple; +33-1-4271-3944; breizhcafe.com/en HÔTEL PROVIDENCE 90 rue René Boulanger;…

Blanket Statement Throw these Faribault Revival Stripe wool blankets ($280; faribaultmill.com) onto deck chairs to make them more comfy or around the kids’ shoulders when it gets chilly (or take them to fall sporting events, if you’re into that). Finger Figs When fresh figs are at their peak, I like to make one of the easiest finger foods in existence: halved figs, on a platter, with good olive oil, flaky salt, crushed red chiles, and lemon juice. Stir and Deliver When something is perfect, it’s worth treasuring. Chef Gray Kunz, maker of the world’s best kitchen spoon, recently released a Special Edition Spoon with a copper satin finish ($35; jbprince.com) that comes in its own box. I’m getting myself one. The Best Beans I am obsessed with the slow-cooked brothy…

THE 101 BUYING Sweet potatoes are available year-round, but the peak growing season runs from fall through early winter. Choose tubers with smooth skins, firm pointed ends, and no soft spots. STORAGE They may look tough, but sweet potatoes can bruise quite easily. Store in a cool, dry place and use within a week. If using unpeeled, just give them a scrub first. When in Doubt, Wedge Oven-roasted sweet potatoes are the no-fail side. Toss ½"-thick wedges with olive oil and salt and roast in a single layer at 425°, turning occasionally, 40–45 minutes. THEN DIP THEM IN: Mayo + Lime juice + Chopped cilantro Mayo + Sriracha + Grated garlic Mayo + Curry powder + Lemon juice Twice Is Nice For creamy insides and crispy skins, try the twice-roasted…

IN TODAY’S WORLD, THE KITCHEN is one of the most visited, explored, and enjoyed spaces in the home. It’s a reflection of your world—so why not customize it to reflect your style? The new Café Matte Collection features two gorgeous finishes: an undeniably fresh Matte White and a modern Matte Black. With a distinct line of customizable hardware options, you can create a personalized kitchen palette with a designer’s touch. Matte White offers a timeless appeal, and its soothing, relaxed texture adds warmth and light. For added drama, opt for the Matte Black, which connects natural tones for a soothing, layered look. Both feature customizable hardware that makes a statement—choose from Brushed Copper, Brushed Bronze, Brushed Black, and Brushed Stainless. Finally, high-performance appliances that suit your personal style, right down…

I COME FROM a Puerto Rican family. We grew up poor [in the Bronx, then Westchester, New York], eating rice and beans every day. But each summer for my parents’ anniversary, we dug up a pit in our yard to roast a pig. My dad would sit there turning the spit for five, six hours for lechón. ON THANKSGIVING we’d have turkey, but also pernil, roast pork shoulder. We never had a table big enough to fit everyone. Friends would just show up with random people we’d never met before. You’d make a plate, eat it off your lap, and share stories. WHEN I WAS A KID, I wanted to be a scientist. In high school I hostessed at a local Irish pub to pay my way through activities. I’d…

OUT OF ALL the dishes a chef envisions, tests, and eventually serves, how does one become a restaurant’s signature? For Longoven’s Andrew Manning, Megan Fitzroy Phelan, and Patrick Phelan, the defining menu item is the thing they’ve never been able to stop fiddling with: a savory egg custard that they’ve topped with everything from uni to summer flowers. As the team journeyed from DIY pop-up stalwarts to the owners of a new brick-and-mortar location, a version of this dish has always anchored their constantly changing restaurant. NOVEMBER 2016 1 Jasmine Rice Custard Manning wants to put a savory custard on the menu. This month he finally does, mixing jasmine-rice-steeped milk with egg yolks, steaming it, then topping with crunchy cauliflower mushrooms and Maine uni. After the chefs wrap their day…

Make - Ahead Mashed Potatoes 8 SERVINGS Yukon potatoes make for a creamier, glossier mash. 4 lb. medium Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed Kosher salt⅔–1 cup heavy cream⅔–1 cup whole milk1¼ cups (2½ sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces½ cup sour cream Freshly ground black pepper SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A potato ricer or food mill fitted with fine disk Place potatoes in a large pot and pour in cold water to cover by 1". Add a large handful of salt (water should taste briny, like the ocean) and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are very tender but not crumbly, 30–40 minutes. Drain and return potatoes to warm pot to dry (off heat). Meanwhile, heat ⅔ cup cream and ⅔ cup milk in a small saucepan over medium until…

Shingled Sweet Potatoes with Harissa 8 SERVINGS Harissa lends both a spiciness and an earthiness to this savory sweet potato dish. We promise you won’t miss the marshmallows. ⅔ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil⅔ cup plus 2 Tbsp. harissa paste2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar, divided3¼ lb. medium sweet potatoes, peeled Kosher salt3 Tbsp. raw pistachios2 tsp. sesame seeds1 tsp. fennel seeds SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A spice mill or mortar and pestle Preheat oven to 400°. Whisk ⅔ cup oil, ⅔ cup harissa, and 1 Tbsp. vinegar in a large bowl to combine. Slice sweet potatoes crosswise on a mandoline ⅛" thick. Add to bowl with harissa mixture and toss to coat; season with salt. Arrange sweet potatoes so they are standing upright in concentric circles in a 2-qt. baking dish,…

IN THANKSGIVING, as in life, there are delegators and there are doers. Delegators assign. They’ll tell you to bring the cranberry sauce, they’ll tell you when it’s time to serve the pie, and they’ll make you write place cards even though you’re all family and no one needs to be told where to sit. The doers in my family, and I count myself among them, are extreme. We say “Give me a job” like if you don’t comply we’ll fall into a pit of uselessness. This makes for quite a scene at Thanksgiving, all of us hovering over each other, going out to get extra ice when the freezer is clearly full, taking a single seltzer can out to the recycling bin so as not to burden anyone else. We…

Entertaining for the holidays is no small feat. With all the responsibilities—and food preferences galore—you’re wondering how to pull it off. But with a few entertaining tips, a thoughtfully prepared menu, and beautifully designed All-Clad pots and pans to help you on your way, you’ve got it under control. Guests will feel right at home, and you’ll rule the holidays this year. Discover more at ALL-CLAD.COM A PALATE CLEANSER Orange juice, sherry vinegar, and mustard are balanced by the natural sweetness of pears and beets in this tangy, crisp, crunchy winter slaw with red pears and pumpkin seeds, an optimal choice for a starter salad or a mid-meal refresher between flavors. THE VEGETARIAN PERSUASION Accommodating veg-only folks is easy when it comes to sides, but you want them to have a…

SOMETIMES I THINK that people are on to me when I talk up a new recipe I made for dinner. “But did your kids eat that?” “No, did they really?” “Even the toddler, Deb?” And then I have to mumble the truth, which is that the toddler wasn’t hungry because she had already eaten three raspberries and a Cheerio. I’m exaggerating, but only a little. I have two kids. My nine-year-old son, Jacob, is the easy one. He’s a pretty normal fourth-grader, which is to say he’d still choose pizza, tacos, or spaghetti over most other things (who wouldn’t?). But he’s curious enough, so my husband and I can often talk him into trying new dishes, like, without bribery. Then there’s my daughter, Anna. She’s three and she is, frankly,…

IN THE DAYS leading up to the most over-the-top meal of the year, I crave dinners that are comforting and turkey-free with little actual cooking. Start the month with these bright but cozy dishes, like nearly instant chicken soup and coconut dal, which rely on mostly veg and just a little meat—after all, you’ve got a lot of eating ahead of you. Citrus Shrimp Rice Bowls Why make a marinade and a dressing when you can make one sauce that works as both? 4 SERVINGS ½ cup fresh orange juice2 Tbsp. Sriracha1 Tbsp. honey2 tsp. soy sauce or tamari soy sauce¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. fresh lime juice 1½ lb. jumbo or large shrimp, peeled, deveinedKosher salt2 large oranges, preferably different varieties (such as…

IT USED TO BE THAT New Yorkers—especially chefs—wished they were in Paris. Now everyone opening a restaurant in Paris wants to be in Brook-LEEN. In the 10th and 11th arrondissements, young chefs are forgoing the Michelin route to start their own lo-fi, high-energy spots where open kitchens, mash-up menus, and scruffy servers are the norm. How not-stuffy are they? Many of these places are vibey natural-wine bars that happen to have creative chef-driven food. You can dip in for a five-euro glass of Gamay—imagine!—and a dish or two without strapping in for a whole “experience.” It’s that kind of effortless French chic that we can never seem to re-create after our vacation—luckily, we’ll always have Paris. La Buvette It wouldn’t be accurate to call Camille Fourmont the godmother of natural…

Senior Food Editor ANDY BARAGHANI Chef Alexander Hong at Sorrel in San Francisco makes the best pastas I’ve had all year. Take this cicatelli with guanciale, black truffle, and ricotta. There’s so much going on with these savory ingredients, but he makes it work. Associate Editor HILARY CADIGAN on Southern Seafood Surprises You can’t throw a spent oyster shell in Charleston, SC, without hitting a trendy seafood spot. I would know — my soon-to-be-in-laws live there. But few possess a menu as imaginative as newbie Chubby Fish. Chef James London’s dishes change often but maintain a consistent playfulness (chicken-fried cobia collar anyone?) for a meal that delights and surprises—without scaring off the in-laws. Associate Editor ALEX DELANY on The Man Behind Minneapolis’s Best Omakase At Kado no Mise in Minneapolis, the…

Cranberry-Fig Sauce MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS Figs bring a touch of sweetness to this bright, chutney-ish sauce and nicely offset the sharpness of the vinegar. 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter1 large shallot, finely chopped1 Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary1 lb. fresh (or frozen) cranberries6 oz. dried Turkish figs, coarsely chopped⅔ cup (packed) light brown sugar¼ cup balsamic vinegar½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Cook shallot and rosemary, stirring often, until shallot is starting to turn golden, about 4 minutes. Add cranberries, figs, brown sugar, vinegar, ½ tsp. salt, and red pepper flakes and increase heat to medium-high. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve sugar, and cook, stirring often and reducing heat as needed to avoid scorching, until…

“This cocktail was inspired by my love of the spritz, which I’m always trying to steer into fall. The Spanish cider is a dry, funky counterpart to the herbal amaro, and it makes for a drink that’s easy going enough to sip all day.”Senior associate food editor Molly Baz Fall Spritz MAKES 1 Set out both bottles with glasses and a bucket of ice and let guests do the rest. Just remember the ratio: one part amaro to four parts hard cider. 1.5 oz. Averna amaro6 oz. Basque-style dry hard cider (such as Isastegi Sagardo) Orange twist (for serving) Pour amaro and cider into a glass filled with ice and stir to combine; garnish with orange twist.…

Broccoli Caesar 8 SERVINGS Broccoli stems are tender and delicious, but it’s important to cut away the dried-out base and peel the tough skin of thicker ones. 2 oil-packed anchovy fillets (optional)1 garlic clove, thinly sliced¼ cup fresh lemon juice2 tsp. Dijon mustard Kosher salt1 large egg yolk or 2 Tbsp. mayonnaise½ cup extra-virgin olive oil3 Tbsp. grated Parmesan, plus more shaved for serving2 medium heads of broccoli (about 1½ lb.)¼ head of savoy or Napa cabbage Finely grated lemon zest (for serving) Freshly cracked black pepper Using the side of a chef’s knife, mash anchovies, if using, and garlic on a cutting board until a smooth paste forms. Transfer paste to a large bowl and whisk in lemon juice, mustard, and a big pinch of salt. Add egg yolk (or…

Dry-Rubbed Roast Turkey 8–10 SERVINGS Cooking the turkey on a rimmed baking sheet is great for all-over browning, but be very careful as you remove it from the oven so that the drippings don’t slosh over the sides. ½ cup Diamond Crystal or ¼ cup plus1½ tsp. Morton kosher salt1 Tbsp. light brown sugar1 12–14-lb. turkey, neck reserved for gravy, giblets discarded, patted dry12 Tbsp. (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, divided¼ cup sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar2 Tbsp. honey4 tsp. Worcestershire sauce3 sprigs rosemary3 garlic cloves, crushed2 2x1" strips orange zest Place salt and brown sugar in a medium bowl and work together with your fingers until incorporated. Place turkey on a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet. (If you don’t have this setup, place your turkey…

YOU WON’T FIND Ina Garten breaking a sweat on Thanksgiving. “I’m never stressed!” she joked at her Hamptons home after a shoot for bonappetit.com, where she’s our guest editor the week of Oct. 29. The key to her success is doing almost everything in advance, like blanching beans and assembling a butternut squash gratin from her new book, Cook Like a Pro. Her easiest Thanksgiving was when she and Jeffrey skipped the holiday entirely. “One year we decided we liked leftovers so much that I made the turkey and stuffing the day before, and we had turkey sandwiches for dinner. It was really fun.” THE VITALS Cookbooks 11 Go-to olive oil Olio Santo Must-have Thanksgiving ingredient Pumpkin Favorite spirit Maker’s Mark Secret weapon for buffet Cake stands Newest garden addition…