Indholdsfortegnelse for December 2018-January 2019 i Bon Appetit

INGREDIENTS: 2 Slices Rye Bread3 tbsp. Secret Sauce7 oz. Carnegie Deli Pastrami1 oz. Salami2½ oz. Coleslaw1 Half-Sour Pickle To make your very own sandwich named after the comedienne who’s truly earned it, start off with two slices of freshly baked rye bread. Spread one side with our secret sauce. (SPOILER ALERT: It’s Thousand Island dressing!) Pile on a heap of thinly sliced, genuine Carnegie Deli pastrami. Then, add a little Midge Maisel spice with a few slices of salami. Next, add a layer of house-made coleslaw. And just before you top it off with that last piece of rye, lather on another layer of the secret stuff. Okay, now you can add the bread. But remember, no sandwich worth its salt is complete without a pickle! In this case throw…

I’m that diner who inspects every glass, plate, and piece of cutlery. When I saw these Tableware’s Not Dead steak knives from maker Roland Lannier at NYC’s Contra, I knew I had to have them. Their slick shape looks modern yet classic. Their straight-edge blades (yes, the more curved side is the dull side) make a clean slice, not a ragged tear. I’ll be gifting them to my friends in need of some oomph in the tableware department. Then they’ll be ready to host a dinner party that will pass any picky guests’ inspections. Myself, of course, included.…

I was a carpenter before I was a cook, and I still have a woodworking business. I know quality woodwork when I see it, and too many people don’t have the good stuff. That’s why I give beautiful handmade pieces from artisans I respect. Like this walnut serving bowl from designer Scott Alexander of Warren, PA, and these spoons from Jack Gerard and Genevieve Barrere of Four Leaf Wood Shop in Ojai, CA. Go ahead and slide them into the center of a table to serve a gorgeous salad. My friends get to enjoy great craftsmanship, I get satisfaction knowing they’re using the good stuff, and we all get to support small businesses. Everybody wins!…

The holidays can feel like that person you meet on Tinder who whips you into a frenzy of parties and dinners, then drops you at the end of the month like last year’s news. Prepare for the post-holiday slump by stocking up on self-care gifts for you and your crew. Whether you’re shopping for the person who “doesn’t have time for a skin care routine” (give exfoliating and protecting serums like Herbivore Prism or Marie Veronique Vitamins C+E+Ferulic) or the friend voted most likely to run off and join a coven (the Shaffali Ash + Sage Mask clears skin like sorcery), these gifts will treat you right all through winter.…

I’ll take an extra half hour of sleep over breakfast any day. But just because I skip the a.m. eggs doesn’t mean I go without—I just flip the script and make them for dinner. I’ll add chickpeas to a frittata or stuff a wrap with hardboiled egg slices, sausage, pickles, and herbs. Because why choose between getting your egg fix and sleeping in when you can have both? Egg and Merguez Wraps It’s a wrap griddled in sausage fat until the outside is crispy and warm. Need we say more? 4 SERVINGS 8 large eggs1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice1 garlic clove, finely grated Kosher salt2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil1 lb. merguez sausage, casings removed4 lavash or large flour tortillas½ small red onion, halved, thinly sliced4…

Trends come and go in the bagel world (ahem, rainbow). But Hatch-chile schmears and custom-built wood-fired ovens? They might be here to stay. The bagel has become the latest DIY project among chefs, and they’re giving it a fresh—but not too fresh—look that’s winning over bagel purists across the country.…

The Food JP blends French (brown butter) and Korean (doenjang, fermented bean paste) staples for jjim, Atomix’s steamed fish course. The sauce is poured over a round of silky halibut. The Plate JP’s cousin Youme Oh crafted this jade-hued ceramic bowl by hand to mimic traditional Korean wares. For the rest of the plates, the Parks tapped South Korean artisans. The Spoon Ellia stumbled upon these handmade copper spoons at an old-school ceramics shop in Seoul. The Chopsticks Inspired by Japanese restaurants where you pick your sake cup, Atomix lets diners choose a pair of chopsticks from Ellia’s personal collection to use during the meal. The Menu Each dish on the tasting menu comes with one of these cards. The front side features a South Korean artist’s drawing inspired by…

Choose smart cookies Sturdy, firm cookies (think shortbread and biscotti), and hefty, thick cookies (like snickerdoodles) can withstand a bumpy ride. Avoid thin shattering types (bye, florentines). Group like with like The moisture level of soft cookies will make crisp cookies go soggy. Pack the two types in separate airtight containers before putting them in a larger box. Fill ’er up The worst thing is for a cookie to rattle in the box. Stuff empty space with scrap material (see p.71 for our tips on start-to-finish packing), then do a jiggle test to make sure you don’t hear any knocking. Drop a hint Tell the lucky recipients that they will be receiving a package: That might be the difference between your gift sitting out in the rain and finding a…

1 YOU DON’T HAVE TO GO IT ALONE The key to hosting without ripping your hair out? Help. If you’re providing the space, spread around some of the work and expenses. Select coconspirators, hatch a detailed plan of who will make and buy what, then relay - race your way to party of the year. 2 TIMING IS EVERYTHING The most wonderful time of the year is also the busiest. Pick a date three weeks out and carefully consider what message your time range sends: 11 A.M. – 3 P.M. “We’re having a party! Then we’re at tending two others immediately after.” 2 P.M. – 6 P.M. “If you thought our party was scheduled around our baby… you were correct.” 6 P.M. – 9 P.M. “Sure, we know how to…

Cake for Coping Since the Line hotel opened in D.C., we’ve given ourselves full permission to lie in bed shoveling our faces full of room-service cakes from pastry legend Pichet Ong of Brothers and Sisters. It’s called self-care; look it up. Beer of the Year We just want to say thank you to Suarez Family Brewery of Hudson, NY, for refusing to get on the hopped-up IPA, ABV-overload bandwagon and instead sticking to pilsners and unfiltered lagers we can actually drink all day. Wish We Were There Why does it feel as if everyone spent this summer in Portugal, drunk on porto tónicos, dragging head-on prawns through butter at linen-covered tables by the sea, while the rest of us dragged our thumbs down Instagram longingly? Revenge of the Curds Once…

ASTROPHYSICIST NEIL DEGRASSE TYSON is as passionate about French toast as he is about the cosmos. The host of StarTalk on National Geographic Channel once made his family’s recipe over a campfire in a Scottish meadow for 20 people while studying the “astronomical alignments in uncharted stone monuments similar to Stonehenge.” Casual. His secrets? Using Vietnamese cinnamon, crisping it in oil, and topping it with butter and the best deep amber New York maple syrup he can find. It’s so good that “I don’t order French toast,” he says. “The only French toast I eat is my own French toast.” THE VITALS Hometown The Bronx Number of books written 15 Ph.D. from Columbia University, in astrophysics Favorite fast-food burger Shake Shack Go-to hot sauce Cholula Star Trek or Star Wars?…

Party Corner SHOULD WEDIM the lights a smidge more? And what about ice—do we have enough ice? No, of course not, we can never have too much ice. And wait, who chose this playlist? When it comes to throwing a party, my wife, Simone, and I can be a bit…particular. Especially during the holidays, when expectations climb and everyone’s calendar jams up with competing engagements. But there is nothing I enjoy more than a good holiday party: the glistening ham (yes, there must be a ham), the punch bowl (the primary cause of your next-morning hangover), the twinkling tree (says the nice Jewish boy), and Nat King Cole or Frank Sinatra on the speakers (you really can’t go wrong with either). It all starts with the guest list. Which, invariably,…

All this time that I’ve known and loved Maldon salt—the crunchy, diamond-shaped flecks from the southeastern coast of England without which no casually fanned steak would be complete—I’d never imagined it was sold by the bucket—3.3-pound bucket to be precise. I could tell you that I purchased this bucket because it was economical, or because the salt stays fresher in a sealed container than in a box I’m too lazy to ever fully close. But the real reason I did it is because without the satisfaction that comes from that ever-so-fragile crunch of flaky sea salt, my food is incomplete. And nothing scares me more than shaking that crinkly bag inside the little Maldon box and realizing, Oh no, I’m out.…

We’ve all gotten our fair share of mugs reminding us to live, laugh, love, or cure the Mondays. And if you’re like me, you’ve politely accepted them while writhing a little inside. So why am I giving my friends mugs this year? Simple. These ceramic beauties fit my Platonic ideal of what a mug should be: visually intriguing, easy to hold, and free of faux-motivation. They’re sculpted with care, embellished with pretty dips and dyes, and accented with playful handles—all of which make them much more comforting than a cupside aphorism.…

A boozy gift all but guarantees a quality drink when you visit. Right now I’m into the sippable La Gritona Reposado Tequila. I can’t bring myself to throw away the recycled-green-glass bottle, so it now doubles as a container for water. Speaking of beautiful vessels, the day after I first drank natural wines from the Mark Thomas MT Series decanter at Frenchette in NYC, I got one for myself. And after a bartender friend introduced me to Colorado-made Leopold Bros. Aperitivo—like a less sweet Campari with only natural colors—I’ve been searching for more cocktails to use it in. For that, there’s the revised and updated edition of The Joy of Mixology, easily one of the greatest books on the subject.…

The 101 BUYING Sugaring season runs from early February to late March, but bottles are available year-round. We strongly recommend 100 percent maple syrup. It’s expensive, but that’s because it takes 40 gallons(!) of sap to make one gallon of syrup. STORAGE To protect against fermentation and molding, keep open bottles in the fridge for up to a year. For indefinite storage, stow syrup in the freezer (it’s too sugary to solidify). Sugar Swap To substitute maple syrup for sugar in a recipe, follow these rules from Baking with Less Sugar by Joanne Chang: 1 CUP SYRUP = 1 CUP SUGAR. BUT… • Decrease the amount of liquid by 3 Tbsp. for each cup of syrup used. • If baking, reduce your oven temp by 25° to prevent burning (since…

How did you get into the bagel-making business? JACKIE: “My mom started making bagels at home—out of necessity. We couldn’t find bagel shops in Atlanta like we had when we were living in New York.” DEANNA: “I started offering them to my neighbors, and I realized that bagels were something people [who moved here] missed. So we started wholesale baking.” What made you end up opening a shop? JH: “That was the dream. We envisioned the bagel shop of my childhood, with the staff in T-shirts and more of a deli atmosphere. The idea adapted over the countless hours we spent standing at our table rolling out bagels. It’s weird to put it this way, but we wanted to be Russ & Daughters when we grew up.” What’s the response…

WHEN I WAS growing up in Spain, food was not plentiful, so nothing went to waste. Refrigerators were small and always seemed to be empty—especially at the end of the month when my father was waiting for the next paycheck. It’s funny, I never remember the dishes we ate at the beginning of the month. I only remember the leftovers, when we had to get creative. My father made this dish called migas: stale bread, garlic, and olive oil. You will say, “Really? You were eating sautéed breadcrumbs?” But I think that’s what ignited my passion for cooking early on. THE BIGGEST LESSON I learned in Puerto Rico after Hurricane Maria is also the simplest: When you find yourself up against a challenge, just start moving. If you try to…

No trip to Rome is complete without an assortment of authentic supplì. This warm, fried rice ball comes in a multitude of flavors, from classic to carbonara. Whether it’s at the beginning, middle, or end of your cruise, savor them all when you set out on a Princess Cruises Shore Excursion of Rome. To get you prepped and ready, here are a few of our favorite pairings. Explore Rome with Princess Cruises' Eating Italy Foodie Walking Tour (ROM-340) at PRINCESS.COM/BONAPPETIT or call our experts at 1-800-PRINCESS bon appetit RECOMMENDED During the Eating Italy Foodie Walking Tour, don’t miss Franchi Delicatessen, where, among supplì, you’ll find fresh burrata from Puglia, truffles, and caviar. When in Rome, right?…

Precut parchment paper sheets You’ll be grateful not to have to cut from that pesky roll. Parchment half-sheets, set of 100, $23; kingarthurflour.com Uncoated (or natural) aluminum baking sheets Get two to take full advantage of your oven racks, and remember to cool them between batches. Nordic Ware Naturals Aluminum half sheet, $14; amazon.com Cookie scoop Make an army of same-size cookies, no weighing or measuring necessary. Good Grips medium cookie scoop, $14; oxo.com Rolling pin A wine bottle works in a pinch, but get yourself a real pin. French pins, which are basically big sticks, offer the best maneuverability and control. French tapered rolling pin, $12; jkadams.com…

Slow Roast Beef 8 SERVINGS Serving the beef with store-bought rolls that have been reheated, brushed with butter, and sprinkled with flaky salt might not be the same as homemade, but they will impress nonetheless. 1 4-lb. New York strip roast, preferably prime, untied Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper6 garlic cloves, finely grated3 Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided½ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt½ cup sour cream2 Tbsp. prepared horseradish½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest Warm rolls and cornichons (for serving) Lightly score fat cap of roast, spacing cuts about ¾" apart, with a sharp knife, being careful not to slice into the flesh. Season roast generously on all sides with salt and pepper. Mix garlic, rosemary, and 3 Tbsp. oil in a small bowl and rub all…

AT 8:30 IN THE MORNING on January 3, 2018, I was standing in a high school classroom—a room I once took Spanish in—staring at four freshman, four sophomores, four juniors, and four seniors. It was my first day of a monthlong trip to Atlanta, the longest stint I’d spent back home since the summer of 2006. Launching into a monologue about what this creative writing class was all about, I was thrilled by the sheer amount of knowledge I had to give to these 16 lucky children. This rules… for them, I thought. Twelve minutes later I was through all my material. It was 8:42. The class ended at 10:15. By 10:30 I was back in my car, questioning many of my decisions: asking to teach a year earlier, re-asking via…

STEP - BY STEPS TIPS & TRICKS 1. How Does an Oven Work Anyway? You know how to use an oven: Turn a dial, put the food in, take it out when it’s cooked. But even a rudimentary understanding of its mechanics will make you a better cook. At its essence your oven is a simple machine, an insulated metal box with a heating element positioned (usually) at the bottom. When you turn it on, the floor gets extremely hot, and that heat reflects off the other five sides and onto the food. Every oven will have some hot spots—these are almost always in the far corners—but certain areas are going to be better for specific things. Does your oven have a fan? That would be a convection fan, which…

A PERSONAL, PASSIONATE Wish List FROM BA STAFFERS Go Big or Go Home Real talk: Most mortars and pestles may as well be decorations. Because if you’re the kind of ambitious home cook who actually fantasizes about fragrant, lovingly pounded curry pastes and Alice Waters–approved aiolis, you’re going to need something a whole lot bigger than that dinky marble pill crusher gathering dust on your counter. And this 12-inch ceramic workhorse from Korin is The One. It’s sturdy yet lightweight with grooved interior walls for efficient grinding, and it’s capacious enough that you won’t send peppercorns flying all over the kitchen when you use it. And if you don’t end up using it as often as you think, it makes a pretty fruit bowl too.…

Everyone’s got their coffee obsession. Me, I’m all about Blue Bottle and Hario’s cold brew maker. Super easy to use (essential for a simpleton like me) and super chic looking (essential for someone as finicky as me). Makes two good-size glasses of cold brew, which is what it takes to get me going each morning. My friend Roo gave it to me when he and his family came to stay with us. It’s perfect, in that my wife prefers pour-over, so she’s got her contraption and now I’ve got mine.…

Stocking stuffers are inevitably lame, unless you absolutely need a pair of cat-print socks. There’s only one I will be enthusiastically giving this year: tinned fish. No, not the watery gray tuna I grew up with. I’m talking about José Gourmet’s highly designed, highly tasty Portuguese conservas. The company makes more than 15 varieties, all using local ingredients and wild-caught seafood. Plus, it obeys the very important stocking stuffer rule of “no wrapping paper necessary”: Each is labeled with an Instagram-worthy illustration. (Sardineas-airplane is a personal favorite.) It’s a snack in a stocking! Which is a lot better than a sock in a stocking.…

I’m not sure when my jumpsuit fixation started, but I know who to blame: senior associate food editor Molly Baz, who owns as many of these pajama-chic suits as normal people do pairs of socks. I’m especially fond of the looser-fitting variety, which let me move freely in the kitchen as I stretch to get things off shelves and bend to use the oven. Pants with waistbands: It’s been real.…

NO SHADE to a gallon of punch, but nobody has ever gotten a crippling hangover from perfectly poached shrimp dipped in a delightfully sassy cocktail sauce. Now I’m not suggesting you replace booze with shrimp at your next party—because, uh, that would be insane—but I am suggesting that you make a giant platter of beautiful shrimp cocktail the centerpiece at your next holiday soiree. It has an elegant retro campiness that suggests, “Wow, this very sophisticated and festive person throws amazing parties.” And imagine for a second being so confident in the deliciousness of one snack that it was all you served. In this fantasy fete, you will poach jumbo unpeeled shrimp in a large pot of gently boiling salted water until bright pink (3–4 minutes). Once cooled in an…

HATCH CHILE SCHMEAR Boichik Bagels, Berkeley, CA Purple cornmeal–crusted bagels tame the pungent chile spread. WHITEFISH CREAM CHEESE Freedman’s, Los Angeles Whitefish goes luxe thanks to a sprinkle of wild-caught paddlefish caviar. NECTARINE CREAM CHEESE Call Your Mother, Washington, D.C. This bagel combo takes sweet and savory to a whole new level. SHERRY-SOAKED RAISIN SCHMEAR The Purple House, North Yarmouth, ME Bonus: There’s also fragrant ras-el-hanout infused in the raisins. HOT TAKE: A Bagel Is Not a Sandwich “I am all for bagel innovation: a dusting of za’atar instead of sesame seeds; boiling in beer; tie-dye it for all I care. But turkey and lettuce on top of it? Those belong on a little thing called bread.” —JULIA KRAMER…

A ROSE IS a rose is a rose—but there’s nothing like an anthurium. The waxy, otherworldly flower feels straight out of a Georgia O’Keeffe painting, and it’s become a botanical barometer for measuring a restaurant’s downtown “It” factor. Floral artist Marisa Competello of MetaFlora regularly features the bloom in her architectural arrangements for New York City hot spots like Dimes, Primo’s, and Mr. Fong’s. Below, she walks us through the perks of using the socalled flamingo flower. BRING IT HOME Want a no-maintenance look that lasts? Pick up a faux anthurium bouquet from Competello’s collaboration with West Elm ($39–$79; westelm.com). ASK THE EXPERT In Living Color “I often treat anthuriums as an accent or a pop of color against a neutral background like palms. They’re like an exclamation point. I…

MY FAMILY TREATS Christmas cookie baking as part gladiatorial sport, part opera. The tradition started with my Italian-American grandmother, Erminia, who would push herself and her oven to the limit every December, waking up at 5 a.m. and baking until she had filled every old cookie tin and ancient Tupperware with hermit slices, pizzettes, spritz cookies, anise cookies, biscotti, candy cane twists, Polish rum balls…. It didn’t end until Christmas Day, or until the oven gave out (she went through three). She was a five-foot-tall sugar-dealing spitfire who pushed cookies into the hands of every friend and family member within a hundred-mile radius. The only way she would cut you off is if you forgot to give her the tins back. My grandma didn’t use tahini or disco dust, but…

Small ziptop or cellophane bags These bags separate soft cookies from crispy ones (see p.67) and serve as a protective layer between the cookies and the metal tin or cardboard box they’re nestled in. Packing material Newspaper, bubble wrap, or other soft stuff from around the house will ensure that a tin doesn’t scoot around in the package. Sturdy boxes Metal tins are pricier but more protective. Thin cardboard boxes are cheaper but flimsier. If you go the cardboard route, seek out options with plastic windows so that you can show off your handiwork. Tape and ribbon Use decorative ribbon to seal bags, clear tape to secure cardboard boxes, and patterned washi tape to decorate metal tins.…

1. Many butchers stock only frozen duck. Call ahead and pick it up two days before cooking so it can defrost. 2. Ducks are fatty, which means they can handle—and actually benefit from—a heavy hand when seasoning. 3. Wet marinades are your friend because they let you flavor the duck from the inside out.…

Elevate Your Culinary Game with Netflix, Bon Appetit, and Williams Sonoma In The Final Table, Netflix’s new global culinary competition series, acclaimed food writer and Bon Appétit editor at large Andrew Knowlton hosts as chefs from around the world master cuisines from nine different countries. Only one chef wins—but you could walk away with a little something, too. Up the ante on your own kitchen skills and enter for the chance to win 16 of Andrew’s favorite Williams Sonoma items inspired by The Final Table—from a molcajete and Dutch oven to a paella pan and pasta roller. Enter for the chance to win them all at williams-sonoma.com/finaltablegiveaway Watch The Final Table, now streaming only on Netflix WILLIAMS SONOMA CALIFORNIA Celebrate with Ferrero Rocher® Ferrero Rocher® fine chocolates are a tempting…

SHOPPING LIST MAINS OF THE DAY pp. 82–89 P. 63 CHARGER PLATE $110; jungleeny.com P. 63 AMBER JUG $100; jungleeny.com P. 65 VENEZIA PLATTER $183; jungleeny.com P. 65 BERTI KNIFE $300; match1995.com P. 65 WHITE TULIPS DESSERT PLATE BY ANNA WEATHERLEY $54; devinecorp.net P. 67 FIJI PLATTER $149; vistaalegre.com P. 69 BOLLE VASE PURPLE From $150; jungleeny.com TRAVEL PLANNER AWAY pp. 49–60 ATOMIX 104 E. 30th St., NYC; atomixnyc.com BELLE’S BAGELS 5043 York Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-208-9408; bellesbagels.com BOICHIK BAGELS 3170 College Ave., Berkeley, CA; boichikbagels.com BUTTON & CO. BAGELS 32 S. Lexington Ave., Asheville, NC; 828-630-0330 CALL YOUR MOTHER 3301 Georgia Ave. NW, Washington, D.C.; callyourmotherdeli.com EMERALD CITY BAGELS 1257A Glenwood Ave. SE, Atlanta; emeraldcitybagels.com FREEDMAN’S 2619 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; 213-568-3745; freedmansla.com METAFLORA For information, go to metafloranyc.com…