Indholdsfortegnelse for February 2019 i Bon Appetit

Daniela Soto-Innes reimagines Mexican cuisine…Turmeric by the people, for the people… How to handle that 4 p.m. snack craving…Folk is the all-day café with heart…Yardy pushes restaurant culture out of its box…The Native American entrepreneur who’s preserving wellness’s past and future… The spirit we’re gonna go ahead and call healthy…A designer moving past midcentury monotony… Fast-casual restaurants go to the source…CBD caramel…Your skin should eat well too…Clothing to dye for (organically, of course)… A natural wine worth talking about…The illustrator changing the way we see women…Cook like Cortney Burns, the chef who doesn’t cook like anyone else ON THE COVER Photograph by Danielle Levitt. Food styling by Frances Boswell. Wardrobe by Doria Santlofer. Hair and makeup by Timothy Aylward.…

THINK BACK TO early December, when your heart was full of optimism as you pictured all the festive treats you’d bake this winter. Cinnamon buns every morning. Apple galettes every night. Won’t we be warm and cozy! Well, guess what: Winter is here, and the enthusiasm that inspired you to lug your stand mixer down from the top of the fridge has been replaced with a closetful of long underwear and a heart full of despair. But despair not, because a trip to the tropics is just around the corner, baby. That’s right: hyper un-local (but very much in-season) tropical fruit is here to delight your dinner-party guests and save you all from your seasonal affective disorders. Slices of tangy pineapple, spears of ripe mango, and rounds of neon-pink “what-is-that?”…

French Onion Dip Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a small skillet over medium. Cook 1 finely chopped medium onion, 2 finely grated garlic cloves, and 2 thyme sprigs, stirring occasionally, until onion is deep golden brown and very soft, 35–40 minutes; don’t rush it. Discard thyme and let cool. Mix caramelized onion, 1 thinly sliced small shallot, 1 cup sour cream, ¼ cup finely chopped chives, and 1 Tbsp. lemon juice in a medium bowl; season with salt and pepper. Let sit 30 minutes. Top with more sliced chives. Do ahead: Dip can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Makes about 1½ cups Creamy Kimchi Dip Squeeze 2 cups kimchi over a small bowl to release excess liquid; discard liquid. Finely chop kimchi. Cut 8 oz.…

ENTERTAINING MADE EASY 1 MAKE THE FOOD IN ADVANCE Take the stress away from the big day by prepping and cooking ahead of time. 2 SET UP A DRINK STATION A well-placed cocktail cart keeps guests out of the kitchen and relieves the host of bartending duties. 3 DIM THE LIGHTS Ambience is everything. Candles, lanterns and low lighting make for an enchanting autumn evening. VISIT HOMEDEPOT.COM FOR MORE INSPIRATION.…

Brussels Sprout Tacos with Spicy Peanut Butter 4 SERVINGS Cooked and raw brussels sprouts are matched with a rich umami dressing and a spicy nutty sauce in this surprising but winning taco. 2 Tbsp. Aleppo-style pepper or 1 Tbsp. crushed red pepper flakes¾ cup unsalted, roasted peanuts plus ¼ cup crushed Kosher salt1 lb. brussels sprouts, preferably small ones, trimmed, divided1 cup vegetable oil¼ cup Salty-Sour Vinaigrette (see recipe, p. 58)8 6" corn tortillas¼ cup finely chopped white onion Sliced avocado, sliced serrano chiles, cilantro leaves with tender stems, flaky sea salt, lime wedges (for serving) Purée red pepper and ¾ cup whole peanuts in a food processor until a smooth butter forms, about 2 minutes. Season with kosher salt and scrape into a small bowl. Very thinly slice one-fourth of…

Hazelnut Granola and Chia Pudding Bowls GRANOLA AND CHIA PUDDING 3 cups old-fashioned oats½ cup coarsely chopped skin-on hazelnuts or pecans½ cup skin-on almonds½ cup unsweetened coconut flakes¼ cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)¼ cup raw sunflower seeds1 Tbsp. ground cinnamon½ tsp. kosher salt½ cup honey¼ cup virgin coconut oil1 tsp. vanilla extract½ tsp. flaky sea salt3 cups brewed rooibos tea, cooled¾ cup chia seeds ASSEMBLY 4 cups plain Greek yogurt2 tsp. honey½ tsp. vanilla extract4 Tbsp. apricot jamChia seeds (for serving; optional) GRANOLA AND CHIA PUDDING Preheat oven to 300°. Toss oats, hazelnuts, almonds, coconut flakes, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, cinnamon, and kosher salt in a large bowl. Heat honey, oil, and vanilla in a small saucepan over medium-low, whisking until melted and combined, about 2 minutes. Pour over oat…

EVERYONE WANTS TO be a little more chill—which is probably why there’s a bottle of CBD knocking around in your nightstand right now. The nonpsychoactive cannabis compound with legalish status nationwide has made the jump from high-minded supplement shelves to local coffee shops, but we prefer to infuse our own food to control dosage and balance out that, ahem, herbal flavor. We asked chef Andrea Drummer, whose dinner parties with Elevation VIP Cooperative are the hottest seat in L.A., for her blissed-out CBD caramel sauce recipe. Drizzle as desired. —ALIZA ABARBANEL CBD Caramel Sauce Evenly spread 1 cup sugar in a medium saucepan and cook, undisturbed, over medium heat, until melting and turning golden brown around the edges. Using a heatproof rubber spatula, stir melted sugar into unmelted sugar, then…

EARLY ON I REALLY THOUGHT IT was all just going to be about grain bowls and green juice. I was on a work trip to Las Vegas, of all places, sitting poolside at one of those ginormous resort/casinos, where servers always seem to magically appear bearing baskets of nachos and pool-safe aluminum bottles of light beer. This was April 2016. Bon Appétit’s then publisher, Pam Drucker Mann, asked if I thought we could launch a site inspired by our annual start-the-year-fresh Healthyish issue. Absolutely. That was my short, honest answer. Seemingly everyone I knew at the time, especially my mostly millennial staff, was cramming in yoga classes before or after work, swilling kombucha, downloading meditation apps, yet still finding time to go out every night (hence the ish). Who needed…

Mind the Grind I collect mortars and pestles ($38 for 8" granite set; grocerythai.com). I have 14 so far, from Iran, Italy, Thailand, and more. I won’t use anything else to make pestos or crush whole spices. When Life Gives You Whole Lemons… I can’t stop making this whole-lemon dressing that uses the skin, pith, and flesh. It shines splashed in salads and drizzled over fish and chicken. Get the recipe at bonappetit.com/lemondressing. Quench in a Pinch If I could afford it, I would use the Biologique Recherche Masque VIP 02 ($146; shoprescuespa.com) every day. It’s my savior when I need an ultra-hydrating pick-me-up but can’t escape to the spa. Souped-Up Soy Sauce I love this white tamari from Nitto Jozo ($14; toirokitchen.com) because it’s slightly sweeter and less overpowering…

Each of the recipes in this section: Takes under 45 minutes Has 10 ingredients or fewer (not including salt, pepper, and extra-virgin olive oil) Requires no special gadgets or appliances How did I become one of those people who does a new year, new you challenge? It was an accident. Three years ago, as the editor of Epicurious, I decided to cook three meals a day, every day, in January. I tracked my progress (okay, humblebragged) on Instagram using the hashtag #COOK90. And before I knew it, more than 150,000 people were cooking along with me. Now the COOK90 challenge is a book (COOK90: The 30-Day Plan for Faster, Healthier, Happier Meals) filled with tricks, meal plans, and time-saving recipes like these. Lemony Salmon and Spiced Chickpeas Everything’s better in…

As coffee shops extend their hours and expand their offerings to serve wine, beer, and cocktails, our favorite place to start the day has become the best place to end it SOME MIGHT SAY I spend too much time in coffee shops. And others might argue I spend too much time in bars. Whether or not they’re right, I’m happy to say I’m cutting that number in half. Why? How? Not because I’ll be drinking fewer cortados or saisons, but because local beers, natural wines, and dialed-in cocktails are cropping up all over coffee shop menus. Now the espresso joints I already love are turning into my preferred spots to grab a drink at night. A commitment to quality booze mirrors the devotion to single-origin beans sold at third-wave coffee…

Editorial Assistant ALIZA ABARBANEL on How to Eat Bavel’s Shawarma Diners brave L.A. traffic for the hummus at Bavel, chefs Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis’ new hot spot. But it’s the slow-roasted lamb neck shawarma, an imposing on-the-bone cut, that steals the show and has mystified all—until now. 1. Get your head in the game. Locate your napkin and size up the fleet of condiments. 2. Prepare to get messy. The meat is so tender that you can use just the laffa bread to nudge the meat off the bone and into your mouth. 3. Go freestyle. Add tahini, pickles, and amba sauce made with fermented mango and habanero. 4. Bat cleanup. Sop up those pools of juice. Fight your tablemates for the last bite. There’s no judgment in love…

THE FIRST TIME Sana Javeri Kadri tried a turmeric latte in the U.S., it was the summer of 2016, and she spotted it on the menu at a San Francisco café. “It was disgusting,” she recalls.”They used way too much turmeric.” “I dismissed the turmeric trend as silly,” she says now, sitting in the living room of her house in Oakland, surrounded by clear encyclopedia-size bags of the vibrantly hued spice. But soon enough turmeric was at countless coffee shops and in the pages of food magazines, praised as a miracle spice for its nutritional benefits. “I realized that, clearly, something was happening,” she says. Javeri Kadri, a 25-year-old Mumbai native with bouncy blackish-brown curls and a bubbly voice, is the founder of spice company Diaspora Co. Her house, which…

I’VE MET A PARISIAN jumpsuit designer, a performance poet, and a writer who hosts a sex and culture podcast on queer brown identity (called Food 4 Thot), and I’ve only been at DeVonn Francis’s pop-up for 30 minutes. Francis, our cohost for the night, is standing at a marble kitchen counter garnishing a plate of charred okra strips and magenta pickled carrots. The tight curls of his dyed blond hair are piled high atop his head, adding another four inches to his six-foot-two frame. (Did I mention he’s basically a supermodel?) His voice is soft and gentle as he stops to chat with friends, and he’s way more zen than anyone cooking a meal for 50 should be. There’s a long table set for dinner. Well, kind of. It looks…

DESIGN EXPERTS SEEM to have the same checklist: Midcentury-modern furniture? Yup. Rose gold accents? Sure. Not Elise McMahon, the brains behind furniture and design studio LikeMindedObjects in Hudson, New York. She’s got different priorities. Just pull up a seat at a hexagonalish table at Relationships, a breezy café in Brooklyn. Or look at the marbled pillows, face-shape mirrors, and more inside the new lounge at Lil’ Deb’s Oasis in Hudson. Since opening in 2016, Lil’ Deb’s has gained a following—not just for chefs Carla Perez-Gallardo and Hannah Black’s tropical food or as a gathering place for Hudson’s queer community but because of McMahon’s fun atmosphere. “I know that furniture isn’t exactly solving world issues,” McMahon says. “But by making these interiors, I feel like I can directly affect my community.”…

BOBBY BONAPARTE AND MAX KINGERY, the duo behind the fashion line Olderbrother, could give a TED Talk on the nightmarish impact the garment industry has on the environment. But they would rather not. Instead, they quietly construct their whimsical unisex clothes from sustainably harvested fabrics like organic Japanese cotton and use vivid dyes made from almost exclusively edible pigments. In conceiving each season’s limited-run colorways, they draw inspiration from ingredients that are animating the wellness world at that particular moment—fiery-orange turmeric, golden saffron, the muted earth tones of healing mushrooms—and spend months of R&D figuring out how to best translate those hues to evocative, relatable garments that integrate seamlessly into people’s lives. “We’re not looking at a Pantone book and asking, ‘What’s pretty this season?’” Kingery explains. “Just the idea…

TRAVEL PLANNER AWAY pp. 39–47 ANDIARIO 106 W. Gay St., West Chester, PA; 484-887-0919; andiario.com BAVEL 500 Mateo St., Los Angeles; 213-232-4966; baveldtla.com CELEBRITY CRUISES For information, go to celebritycruises.com CRYSTAL CRUISES For information, go to crystalcruises.com EITHER/OR 4003 N. Williams Ave., Ste. D, Portland, OR; eitherorpdx.com FIGURE 8 COFFEE PURVEYORS 1111 Chicon St., Austin; 512-953-1061; figure8coffeepurveyors.com HOLLAND AMERICA LINE For information, go to hollandamerica.com METHODICAL COFFEE 101 N. Main St., Greenville, SC; 864-735-8407; methodicalcoffee.com NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE For information, go to ncl.com PRINCESS CRUISES For information, go to princess.com REMEDY HOUSE 429 Rhode Island St., Buffalo; 716-250-7724; facebook.com/RemedyHouseBuffalo RITA 293 Van Brunt St., Brooklyn; 347-223-4135; ritabk.com RONAN 7315 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; 323-917-5100; ronanla.com ROYAL CARIBBEAN CRUISES For information, go to royalcaribbean.com SAFTA 3330 Brighton Blvd., Denver; 720-408-2444; eatwithsafta.com…

How to buy—and make the most out of—a rice cooker, the unofficial appliance of the BA Test Kitchen I swiped right on my Zojirushi rice cooker years ago and have never looked back. The sleek machine has taken up permanent residence on my station in the Bon App Test Kitchen, a gently burbling constant at the center of a roomful of cooks in motion. Several mornings a week, the first thing I do when I get to work (well maybe the second, after brewing coffee) is make a big batch of rice or mixed whole grains for family meal, the lunch our kitchen team cooks and eats together every day. When everyone is hangry a few hours later, all we have to do is quickly reheat a leftover protein, scramble…

PARENTS LOVE TO SHARE war stories of the obviously delicious things their children refuse to eat (such as freshly baked apple pie in a flaky buttery crust, in my three-year-old daughter’s case). Then there are the foods they ask for (a “shandwich” the same child requested for lunch) only to flat-out decline moments later (“I no like shandwiches”). We joke about how impossible it is that we could create a human being who doesn’t like hot dogs or tater tots, but I would like for the sake of this story to boldly go where I don’t think enough essays about feeding kids have gone before: I want to own my children’s pickiness. Guys, I was a picky eater as a kid. I didn’t like meat. I didn’t like cooked green…

Food in Vogue is a chronicle of the fashion authority’s long-standing fascination with culinary culture, drawing together images that have appeared in Vogue from the world’s top photographers—Irving Penn, Helmut Newton, Anton Corbijn, Annie Leibovitz, and others—as well as the journalism of food writers, including James Beard Award–winning Jeffrey Steingarten. PUBLISHED BY ABRAMS abramsbooks.com Available wherever books are sold…

Why turn the coffee shop into a bar? Wine is like coffee’s cool older cousin. The deeper we get into it, the more we learn about terroir, which helps us be more well-rounded coffee professionals. Was there also an economic reason? Totally. It’s key to expand so we’re not pigeonholed serving lattes. This guarantees more job security. What’s the response been? One of our most loyal customers is a guy who works at a nearby Starbucks. He chooses to come to a coffee shop during his breaks to drink some wine! That’s evidence that we’re redefining what a coffee shop can be.…

JACKFRUIT CHEWS by Amäzi Foods “Jackfruit is a really wonderful meat alternative, and Amazi sources theirs from a cooperative in Uganda.” COCONUT CREAM CARAMELS by Sweet Apricity “These caramels are made from coconut sugar and coconut cream. They’re chewy and rich with the perfect amount of salt.” CACAO CRUNCH BLISS BALLS by Raw “A lot of balls are either dry or oily. But these, made with coconut, cacao, dates, and chia seeds, are amazing." GRANUESLI by Victory Dance Foods “Granuesli is full of goodies like granola, but the oats are flattened like muesli. It’s great to snack on all day.” GRANOLA BUT TER by Kween “Imagine eating nut butter and cinnamon oatmeal at the same time. It’s packed with good ingredients too: gluten-free oats, flax, olive oil…” SPICY PEANUT COCONUT…

CHELSEY LUGER is giving ancestral Native American practices a 2019 reboot CHELSEY LUGER WAS working as a personal trainer when she realized that a lot of the “alternative” practices the health world was preaching were similar to things she’d grown up with as a Native American of Ojibwe and Lakota descent. But no one was talking to Native Americans about it. As a result of forced displacements and poverty, much of the Native American population has suffered from health issues like diabetes, alcoholism, and drug use. “We wanted to reclaim our power, health, and food sovereignty because holistic wellness has been part of our culture for thousands of years,” says Luger, who spent parts of her childhood on a reservation in North Dakota, surrounded by the holistic learnings of Native…

COFFEE “We got a lot of help from a friend who is a coffee roaster, but the variables were huge—where the beans are from, how they’re roasted, processed, and ground—and those all became nuances of the process and product.” HIBISCUS “You think about the tea bag, and that’s your color palette. It just felt right for a spring/summer collection. We really wanted to tell a summer story with the hibiscus—thinking about being served iced hibiscus tea at a garden party, very vibe-y.” CHAGA MUSHROOMS “We’re nowhere close to being mushroom experts, but we’re total fanboys. There is a whole category of mushrooms used for dyeing, but most of them aren’t edible. We experimented with chaga, and when it worked we were like, ‘Jackpot!’”…

1 Does Grinding Your Own Beans Really Matter? Freshly ground pepper is better than pre-ground pepper, and that same rule applies to coffee beans. The minute the beans are ground, the oils that drive the fruity, toasty, beautiful flavors start to degrade in quality. That means that pre-ground coffee leaks flavor as it sits on the grocery store shelf. For maximum flavor, aroma, and energy, which is exactly what we want first thing in the morning, buy your coffee beans whole and grind them just before you brew. 2 So…I Guess I Need a Grinder Then? You may be familiar with the blade grinder—like a tiny blender with flat blades—but what you actually want is a burr grinder, preferred by coffee aficionados for its ability to grind beans to a…

KELLY RIPA IS THE MOST revved-up, relentlessly positive person on morning TV. Her secret? Bulletproof coffee. At 5 a.m., the Live with Kelly and Ryan cohost combines the “darkest roast coffee” she and husband, actor Mark Consuelos, can find with a spoonful of Organic Valley ghee and two shots of espresso and blitzes it all in a blender until frothy. “It keeps me from being ravenous,” she explains, as she doesn’t eat anything before the cameras roll. “It’s hard to host a morning show when you’re digesting—my brain almost goes to sleep. I’ve tried eating before Live and it’s always been a disaster.” THE VITALS Hometown Stratford, NJ Years hosting Live 18 Wakes up with Madonna’s MDNA Rose Mist Favorite wellness product Jade roller Loves to snack on Dried apricots…