Indholdsfortegnelse for October 2019 i Bon Appetit

PRESENTED BY TRAVEL WRITER ERIC STOEN IS no stranger to New Orleans. He's married to a local, which makes the city an in-law of sorts. But this time, he stayed at Hotel Peter and Paul, a renovated church, convent, rectory, and schoolhouse. Today the space nods to its religious background with artwork and decor, but overall, it's a cozy and eclectic mixture of New Orleans' past, present, and future. "It's the little things;' Eric said. "Art from local artists, local antiques, and curated guides to New Orleans in the room:' Much of the decor at Hotel Peter and Paul is bespoke, and meant to pay homage to the space's history. 'Tm not a religious person, but it was cool to see all the little details that reflect the history of…

In the aperitivo Hall of Fame, Campari is number one. But recently I’ve been stoked on all of the American-made liqueurs I’m seeing everywhere, which sport more intense bitterness and unique fruity and vegetal notes. I use these aperitivi in the same way I use the Italian stuff. For a nuanced spritz I go for Don Ciccio & Figli Ambrosia ($35). Made with gentian root and Seville orange, St. George Spirits’ Bruto Americano ($30) makes a pleasingly bitter Negroni. For a sipper that’s perfect with just an ice cube? That’s Forthave Spirits’ Red Aperitivo ($36). I recommend starting with whatever’s available in your region. You know, how the Italians do it.…

1 cup raw walnuts or pecans10 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature, divided4 small or 3 large baking apples (such as Pink Lady), peeled, halved, cored½ cup (packed) light brown sugar, divided1 cup all-purpose flour1 tsp. kosher salt1 tsp. baking soda½ tsp. baking powder¼ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg1½ tsp. ground cinnamon, plus more for serving½ cup granulated sugar2 large eggs, room temperature1 tsp. vanilla extract½ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt, room temperature Lightly sweetened, softly whipped cream (for serving) Place a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°. Spread out walnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and toast, tossing once, until golden brown, 10–12 minutes. Let cool. Meanwhile, heat a 10" ovenproof skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium. Add 2 Tbsp. butter and swirl to coat; arrange apple halves…

1. Place racks in middle and upper third of oven; preheat to 325°. Heat a large, deep ovenproof skillet over medium-high. Pour in ¼ cup oil; add sausage and break up into small pieces. Cook, undisturbed, until browned underneath, about 4 minutes. Stir a few times; cook, undisturbed, until cooked through, about 3 minutes. 2. Add garlic, chopped sage, and red pepper flakes to sausage and cook, stirring, until garlic is golden, about 2 minutes. Mix in half-and-half and simmer until thickened slightly, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low. Stirring constantly, gradually add two-thirds of the cheese a little at a time, letting it melt before adding more. Cook, stirring, until sauce is smooth and thick, about 3 minutes; season with salt. Remove from heat. 3. Meanwhile, cook pasta…

1. Heat 3 Tbsp. oil in a large saucepan over medium. Add onion and season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion and garlic are very tender and just beginning to brown around the edges, about 5 minutes. Add rosemary and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add chickpeas and tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes are slightly thickened, 6–8 minutes. 2. Add pasta and 4 cups water to saucepan. Increase heat to medium-high, bring to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally to prevent pasta from sticking, until pasta is al dente, 13–16 minutes, depending on shape. Stir in parsley and 3 Tbsp. Parmesan; season with salt. Pluck out…

Pictured clockwise from the top: shaved zucchini salad with squash blossoms, vinaigrette, lemon juice, and olive oil; fresh figs; aged provolone with honey; sparkling Moscato; paccheri with cockles, squid, and mussels in tomato sauce. bon appetit RECOMMENDED Marvel at the Amalfi Coast during your Essence of Italy Tour, where a scenic drive to a local cheese tasting is just the beginning. Stroll through charming towns, make homemade pasta, and finish your journey with local wine. Explore Italy with Princess Cruises' Essence of Italy (NAP-305) at PRINCESS.COM/BONAPPETIT or call our experts at 1-800-PRINCESS. you could be doing this… Sample the many delights of Rome, from homemade gelato to supplì. … and this Indulge in award-winning meals from such renowned chefs as Curtis Stone and Angelo Auriana. Princess Cruises brings you exclusive…

For me, this year was about the little things. Like, one really little thing in particular: beans. Glorious beans! The humble legume has gone from staff meal staple to fastidiously sourced, lovingly cooked, proudly plated scene-stealer. I relished dense, boiled peanut–esque ayocotes ladled over sticky rice with greens at Larder in Baltimore. Big, beautiful, brothy butter beans, creamy and rich under a shower of crispy breadcrumbs at Brooklyn’s reimagined Marlow & Sons. And my favorite of all, a generous bowl of tender, delicate crowder peas lolling about in their own aromatic potlikker, served alongside a toasty wedge of proper Southern cornbread at Benne on Eagle in Asheville, NC: the Appalachian answer to Alice Waters’s infamous fruit bowl, perfect in its simplicity. Sometimes a hill of beans isn’t nothing—it’s everything.…

iT WASN’T until after my mom died that I learned her real name. She escaped Laos and changed it so the government couldn’t find her. Vieng Sai became Phaysane. When she got to Texas, she opened her own restaurant. She cooked Thai food because that’s what was familiar to Americans, but added Laotian touches—a little more fish sauce, a little more funk—to make it her own. She put love into every dish. Now I do the same. I spend time on foraging and fermentation. My boat noodles took five years to perfect, and I’m still adjusting. I make all my curry pastes from scratch. It takes a lot of labor and love, but as my mom always said, without those things, food has no soul. When I was working in…

COURSE 1 YOU NEED A DRINK… “When I was growing up here, restaurants had three drinks: water, sweet tea, and fruit tea. Our welcome cocktail (p.90) is an homage to the latter, as well as to punch’s Indian heritage. (Punch comes from the Hindi word paanch, which means ‘five’ since originally there were five ingredients.) I love fruit tea and wanted to bring it back—with bourbon.” …AND A SNACK “I’ve always associated boiled peanuts (p.89) with road trips. I ate Cajun-spiced ones from gas stations in the South and my grandma’s version for the five-hour ride from the airport to her home in Gujarat. It’s a snack that exists in America and in India. Here I toss them in chile and coriander, which is very Indian, but reminds me of…

I THiNK WE CAN ALL AgREE THAT the Wolf’s Tailor really needs to chill out. Don’t get me wrong, I am extremely into the fact that I can start my meal with a hot puffy disk of chef Kelly Whitaker’s heirloom-grain piada bread straight from the restaurant’s wood-fired oven. But don’t you think that the binchotan-fueled Japanese robata grill, the one they use to sizzle skewers—a juicy chicken meatball, or crispy-edged mortadella—to succulent perfection is kind of gilding the lily? Just a little? Another great example of way-too-muchness: the pasta program. The toothy mafaldine I had one night—made from local grains milled in-house and tangled up with morsels of grassy whey-braised Colorado lamb and tender little peas—was the single most exciting plate of pasta I ate this year. But did…

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Introducing the L.A.–based best new restaurant of 2019, where the croissants are perfect and the hype is real. p.58 In Dallas, a Laotian-American chef tells his life story with boat noodles. p.64 An incredible tasting menu where you’d least expect it (Richmond!). p.68 Try the Danish at this humble Detroit bakery. And the bread. And the cookies. And the coffee. p.70 We’d like to spend our lazy afternoons at this New Orleans church turned bar, thanks. p.76 This Malaysian café in NYC is reviving Baba-Nyonya cuisine, one nasi lemak at a time. p.80 The Nashville restaurant where dinner feels like a dinner party. p.84 Welcome to Baltimore’s natty-wine-loving, pig’s-head-butchering, good-vibes-only wine bar. p.92 The year’s best Texas-style BBQ is in…Portland, OR. p.96 The obsessive chef giving fusion a good name…

RASPBERRY-LEMON CHEESE CAKEBARS Prep Time: 15 min. Total Time: 6 hours 5 min. (incl. refrigerating) Makes: 18 servings WHAT YOU NEED 2 cups graham cracker crumbs1 cup plus2 Tbsp. sugar, divided6 Tbsp. butter, melted3 cups (12 oz.) raspberries, divided1 Tbsp. each zest and juice from1 lemon 4 pkg. (8 oz. each) PHILADELPHIA Cream Cheese, softened4 eggs MAKE IT HEAT oven to 325°F. LINE 13x9-inch pan with foil, with ends of foil extending over sides. Combine graham crumbs, 2 Tbsp. sugar and butter; press onto bottom of prepared pan. Bake 10 min. RESERVE ½ cup raspberries and 1 tsp. lemon zest for later use. BEAT cream cheese, lemon juice, remaining zest and remaining sugar in large bowl with mixer until blended. Add eggs, 1 at a time, mixing on low speed…

1. Cook anchovies, garlic, oil, and walnuts in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring often, until nuts are deep golden and garlic is just turning golden, about 5 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring often, until it turns a shade darker, about 2 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes. 2. Scrape walnut mixture, including the oil, into a food processor and add chiles, Parmesan, lemon juice, and ½ tsp. salt; pulse until a thick paste forms. Scrape pesto into a large bowl. 3. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain pasta, reserving 1½ cups pasta cooking liquid. 4. Add butter, then pasta and ½ cup pasta cooking liquid to pesto. Using tongs, toss vigorously, adding more pasta cooking liquid…

NO.1 I Want to Move to L.A. and Only Eat Birria I’m not really sure why everyone else wants to relocate to Southern California (something about the weather?), but I’m in it for the birria. On my most recent visit, I started at the new Venice location of Teddy’s Red Tacos, where I quickly learned the distinction between the Tijuana-style birria blowing up in L.A.—typically spicy slow-cooked beef—and the Jalisco-style birria I knew from my Chicago days, which was usually goat. As good as owner Teddy Vasquez’s orange-jus-stained tacos, tostadas, and quesadillas are, it was the Styrofoam cup of deeply flavorful sinus-clearing beef consommé that got me. All I need is a little Eastside bungalow, and I could spend every day hitting up the list of birria spots I’ve been…

Root Baking Co. ATLANTA This palm-size morning roll dusted with cinnamon sugar is made from Georgiagrown small-batch Catawba wheat processed in a custom 26-inch stone mill. Seylou WASHINGTON, D.C. The bakery’s 1,600-pound mill crushes local grains for baked goods and einkorn-based pizza dough. Lucinda Grain Bar SEATTLE A small (but powerful!) mill breaks down sorghum and buckwheat for a fudgy glutenfree brownie. —A.A.…

Enough with the flaky baked goods that shatter all over our clothes. This year has been all about brioche tarts, rounds of the butteriest bread pocketed with lush filling (pastry cream, lemon curd) and toppings like sliced peaches and strawberry jam. Add some streusel or make it savory—just don’t call it a Danish. —SARAH JAMPE Simon & the Whale NYC Strawberry and lime curd Hewn Bread CHICAGO Sun-dried tomato and parm The Lit tle Tart Bakeshop AT LANTA Cara Cara orange and pastry cream The Essential BIRMINGHAM, A L Blueberry and brown butter streusel…

COURSE 1 SNACK “They’re good little finger foods,” says co-chef Andrew Manning in the understatement of the year. He makes carrot mole for the pog-size nasturtium-covered tart; fries squid (and its ink) into a “churro”; and layers smoked mackerel between nori crackers for the tiniest sandwich. COURSE 2 SCALLOP The staff loved the Meyer lemon kombucha at family meal so much that Manning turned it into the base of this refreshing crudo. It’s the backdrop to yuzu-scented scallops, pickled green strawberries, fermented radishes, and purple shiso (from their garden, of course). COURSE 3 SEA URCHIN “It’s kind of a play on a Caesar salad,” Manning says—except the only thing Caesarish about it is the romaine. The plate is streaked with uni, clam-infused buttermilk dressing, and the lettuce, which has been…

IS IT POSSiBLE TO LOVE someone without really knowing them? What about a restaurant? I fell for Kopitiam in its first iteration, a hole-in-the-wall Malaysian coffee shop on the border of Chinatown. I’d duck in among the neighborhood regulars for sesame noodles or nasi lemak: a coconutty rice bowl topped with crispy-crunchy crumbles of teeny little fried anchovies dressed in a sweet-spicy sambal. And when Kopitiam’s chef, Kyo Pang, partnered with Moonlynn Tsai (formerly of the Taiwanese spot Pine & Crane in L.A.) to relocate and expand Kopitiam down the block, I immediately loved this location even more. The space is comparatively sprawling, with lots of good light coming in through the big windows facing East Broadway and a whole expanded menu of brothy, noodle-y, rice-y dishes showered with those…

THiS IS NOT THE FiRST RESTAURANT TO SERVE French classics in a cozy, warmly lit, slightly ramshackle bistro setting. But if there’s any place in the country that’s making this quintessential genre feel fresh and new and fun and youthful, it’s Baltimore’s Le Comptoir du Vin. It all starts with the delightful couple who opened it: Rosemary Liss, an artist whose residency at the Nordic Food Lab in Copenhagen involved making a quilt out of dehydrated kombucha mothers, and Will Mester, who was chef de cuisine at the restaurant that used to be in this same space, Bottega. The pair built Le Comptoir as an homage to a neighborhood restaurant in Lyon of the same name, which Mester liked so much that he convinced the chef to let him spend…

1 Whole Raw Nuts Are Your Best Bet Versatility, dependability, longevity. No, that’s not our campaign slogan—it’s the reason we buy whole unroasted nuts. (The exception to our rule? Slivered and sliced almonds. No one has time for that.) First, they’re yours to chop, flavor, candy, “mylk,” and roast to your liking (preroasted nuts are never as well-toasted as we’d like). Second, they’re easier to quality-control: You can do a visual check to make sure they’re not broken, wrinkled, or misshapen. For the besttasting, freshest, highestquality nuts, shop from stores with high turnover, not the kind of place that’s had those pistachios on the shelf for a decade. 2 When Good Nuts Go Bad Nuts are pricey, which means you might be tempted to go overboard when you see a…

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A FEW WEEKS AGO I was wandering around the Bon App offices, swinging a 9-iron—my version of a fidget spinner. As is often the case, the last thing I wanted to be doing was sitting in one of those meshy Aeron chairs, staring at my laptop. So I dipped my head into Julia Kramer’s office. Julia, of course, was doing just that—glued to her computer, cup of Pret A Manger lentil soup in hand, a stack of article printouts nearby, and next to them, a teetering pile of cookbook galleys that she would “totally get to” one of these weeks. If you think the life of a restaurant critic is glamorous, you should drop in on Julia. At a time when we are all being asked to do more and…

If you’re in the habit of cooking pasta recipes from the pages of this magazine, you’ve by now memorized certain rules: Boil your noodles in well-salted water, save that pasta liquid to make the glossiest pan sauce, and always pass extra grated parm at the table. But when was the last time you thought to add a can of creamy chickpeas to orecchiette swimming in a zippy garlic-tomato broth, or blitz fresh chiles into a spicy red (yes, red!) pesto? The recipes on the following pages prove that even when it comes to the most familiar dinner of all, there’s always a new trick or two to learn. Each of the recipes in this section: Takes under 1 hour Has 10 ingredients or fewer (not including salt, pepper, and extra-virgin…

1. Using a vegetable peeler, remove two 2"- long strips of lemon zest. Thinly slice each strip lengthwise into strands; set aside for serving. Finely grate remaining zest into a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot. Cut lemon in half and squeeze juice into a small bowl to yield 2 Tbsp.; set aside. 2. Add cream to pot and cook over medium heat, whisking often, until liquid is just beginning to simmer, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low. Whisk in butter 1 Tbsp. at a time until melted and sauce is creamy. Remove from heat; cover to keep warm. 3. Meanwhile, cook pasta in another large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until very al dente, about 2 minutes less than package directions. 4. Scoop out ¾…

“WE’VE ALWAYS been looking over our shoulders at Houston,” says the first guy I meet in Dallas, his tone dramatic. “But not anymore!” And it’s true: The once flyover city (I’m allowed to say this; I was born there) is now officially A Very Good Place to Eat, thanks in large part to the strength of its many immigrant communities. No, it’s still not walkable, but how would you happen upon those perfect gas station momos if it were? (Momostop, y’all—it’s tucked inside a Texaco on the way to the airport.) Here, some of the newest spots worth touching down for. FROM NOON TiLL NigHT You’ll need a Lyft to get to Bishop Arts District, but once there, it’s smooth strolling. Ceviche Oyster Bar Start with boiled, fried, or limecured…

THERE ARE APPROXiMATELy 12 DiSHES ON THE MENU at Khao Noodle Shop, each only a few bites or spoonfuls, and none costs more than $8. So in my attempt to understand what exactly the chef and owner Donny Sirisavath was trying to do, it was easiest just to order them all. After one slurp of painstakingly handmade noodles in a savory, complex pork blood broth, the restaurant’s roots came through clearly: This is the cooking of Laos, the country the chef’s mother fled after its civil war before resettling in Texas in 1977. Sirisavath, who was born in Amarillo, grew up helping his mom in the kitchen of her Thai restaurant, learning how to make pad kee mao and wok-fried rice. Years later, after his mom died, he began hosting…

8:43 A.M. I’M AT OCHRE BAKERy, AND THE FiRST THiNg I’M EATiNg TODAy IS A DANiSH, the crumbly, deep-golden pastry barely holding on to the squiggles of still-juicy rhubarb in the center. 8:46 A.M. Watching the guy behind the counter make a cortado, I realize that this is as much a Serious Coffee Shop as it is a bakery, which makes sense given that it’s owned by Jessica Hicks and Dai Hughes, the same people behind Detroit’s muchloved Astro Coffee. I’m getting lost in the idea that I could live in Detroit and this could be my coffee shop and I could eat this Danish every morning when… 8:57 A.M. My plate of scrambled eggs shows up, but to call it a plate of scrambled eggs is kind of rude…