Indholdsfortegnelse for October 2016 i Bon Appetit

If someone tells you they’ve got a great pasta recipe, ignore them. Making a great bowl of pasta isn’t about directions or measurements. It’s about feel. I should know. I’ve had to learn this lesson again and again over the past 25 years. I used to buy pasta cookbooks, turn to the recipes with the pretty photos, and try to cook them. The problem was, I never really learned how to make those dishes. I was just following instructions. And if you follow a recipe to a T, you stop trusting yourself—you only trust the recipe. But then something happened: I met my wife. When we first started dating, she worked at Babbo, Mario Batali’s celebrated restaurant in New York’s Greenwich Village. Simone wasn’t in the kitchen; she was the…

THE PRO ANA SORTUN Oleana / Cambridge, MA TO LAYPEOPLE, nuts mean trail mix for a midday slump or peanut butter on toast. When chefs look at nuts, they see wonder ingredients that can be turned into misos, mustards, and more. At L’Oca d’Oro in Austin, they’re putting pistachio butter on carrots. There’s nut milk atop clams at NYC’s Wildair. The pine nut brittle on burrata at Wright & Company in Detroit is among the many nutty textural toppers we’ve seen. One of the most transformative applications comes from chef Ana Sortun’s kitchen at Oleana, where blanched almonds go into a blender with water and oil and come out as a luscious sauce. “The almonds’ oil makes it smooth and creamy,” Sortun says. Because the nuts aren’t toasted, the sauce…

THERE WAS A SOLID stretch of years when our kids were very, very into Halloween. At any moment, no matter the month, they’d know what they wanted to dress up as the next year. As soon as the last Butterfinger was down the hatch, our girls, now 12 and 14, would start plotting whether to be Hermione or a vampire cheerleader or Little Orphan Annie. Over the years their enthusiasm has tempered slightly, but that doesn’t mean their parents have moved on. We still hang the old ghost by the front door and plant the flashing eyeballs in the bushes. On the day itself, we take the afternoon off to help apply fake blood and green hairspray—and to prep for our annual Halloween Launch Party. It’s a fuss-free dinner, a…

Stir-Fried Kohlrabi Cook 4 oz. slab or thick-cut bacon, cut into small pieces, in a large skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until bacon begins to brown, 5–7 minutes; transfer to a bowl. Increase heat to medium-high and cook 1 lb. medium kohlrabies, peeled, cut into ⅓"-thick wedges, in skillet, tossing occasionally, until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add 6 scallions, white and palegreen parts only, cut into 1" pieces, and 3 thinly sliced garlic cloves and cook, tossing, until scallions are soft and garlic is golden, about 3 minutes. Add 6 cups coarsely torn kohlrabi greens and 3 Tbsp. water and cook, tossing, until greens are tender, about 2 minutes. Add bacon and 1 Tbsp. soy sauce. Season with salt and pepper. 4 servings WHAT DOES IT TASTE LIKE?…

FOR THE ADDRESSES OF THE SPOTS IN THIS STORY, SEE SOURCEBOOK ON PAGE 122. Visiting New Orleans and not devouring as many of the city’s beloved po’boys as humanly possible is, well, like not visiting at all. Locals across all demographics celebrate the massive submarine sandwiches as one of the standard-bearers of the city’s belly-busting cuisine. You’re as likely to see construction workers downing meatball po’boys at Parran’s in Metairie as you are to see suited-up lawyers tucking into roast beef at Mike Serio’s in the Central Business District—although you’d be hard pressed to find them agreeing on the best bread, the most satisfying filling, or the appropriate hot sauce. (Answer: They’re all good.) Here’s where to find superlative examples of the species in its native habitat. Bet you can’t…

THE CARNITAS, frizzled a deep brown from braising in fat, have fibers that splay open as I chew. The pinto beans are earthy and soft, the pico de gallo a dense hash. The fresh avocado option, essential here at La Taqueria in San Francisco’s Mission District, unifies everything in a buttery medium where the line between flavor and texture is indistinct, irrelevant. I’m still sweaty after a four-block jog from the nearest parking spot on a Saturday night, but I don’t care because the burrito my friends have waiting is as good as it’s always been, since my first time here three decades ago. I can even look past the evil eye of the woman peeved about my friends hogging a table. To find a seat at perennially jammed La…

FORBIDDEN FRUIT “I always crave french fries because we were never allowed to eat them growing up.” Growing up in Kenya, Lupita Nyong’o was accustomed to a packed dinner table. “My parents had six children, so sharing a meal with a lot of people comes naturally to me,” says the actress, who stars in Queen of Katwe, out now. It’s no surprise that she approaches entertaining with ease. “My dinner parties usually spring up out of nowhere,” she says. “I might be having coffee with a friend in the afternoon, and all of a sudden we’re throwing a big feast that night.” Though the vibe is low-key, Nyong’o’s get-togethers have a few house rules: The guest count is capped at eight (“a good number because people can join in the…

Drakes Bay (CA) “Bitter tears of sorrow.” Kumamoto (CA, WA) “Scintillating, like the flashes of light sparking off the dark bay.” Golden Nugget (CA) “Graphite and cream. Artichokes in butter. Foie gras.” Colville Bay (Canada) “Potato chips in clam dip.” 1 LEARN TO DESCRIBE THE FLAVOR OF AN OYSTER like author and bivalve savant Rowan Jacobsen in The Essential Oyster ($35) 2 GET TO KNOW JEF FREY GARTEN , Ina Garten’s lovable husband and the subject of her most recent cookbook, Cooking for Jeffrey ($35): Q. If you wrote a book called Cooking for Ina, what would be the best recipe? A. “Order takeout from Townline BBQ. (All delicious!) Call, wait for doorbell, share with Ina.” 3 OPEN A JAR OF TAHINI. REPEAT. No fewer than 12 recipes call for it in Soframiz ($35),…

THE MENU SPICED AND STEAMED COUSCOUS BRAISED CHICKEN WITH CHICKPEAS CHERMOULA MARINATED ONIONS SEMOLINA CAKE WITH ORANGES GIN AND MINT TEA COCKTAIL “Do you want to come over for couscous?” This is probably not how most people would entice friends over for dinner, which might explain why the reaction I usually get is somewhere between silence and “Uh, sure?” But eventually my friends come over. They smell the aroma of cumin and coriander, and they lift a heaping spoonful of couscous from the bowl. It’s not clumpy or dry; each individual grain is visible. Soon the couscous melds with the juices from the braised chicken tagine, and people change their tune I’ll admit, the way I make couscous is not “instant”—it’s not even fast. I prepare it the way I…

FROM P. 16 KOMBU AS YOU ARE WHAT IS SHIO KOMBU? It’s sheets of kelp that have been simmered in a combination of soy sauce, sake and/or mirin, and sugar before being shredded, which gives it an intensely concentrated sweetsalty-umami flavor. Find it at Asian grocery stores or search Japanese Shio Kombu (Salted Kelp) on amazon.com ($14 for 33 g). WHAT’S THE FUSS? If you enjoy the hunt for unusual ingredients, tracking down Japanese shio kombu is totally worth it. We first got turned on to it when we tried Bar Goto’s celery bar snack, but we ended up calling for easier-tofind furikake in the recipe we published. That said, we’ve been getting a lot of mileage out of this incredible seaweed ever since we got it into the Test Kitchen.…

Pork rinds with beer barbecue sauce and the rye and honey Fool’s Gold cocktail at Billy Sunday in Chicago. IT USED TO BE THAT IF YOU WERE EATING IN A BAR, you took what you were given: a bowl of Chex Mix, a bag of Utz hanging by the Jim Beam, or one of those eggs bobbing in brine like a lab specimen. It also sent a signal that your food-to-alcohol equilibrium had tipped too far in one direction and that you were willing to ingest handfuls of starch and salt in an attempt to right the scale. Eating in a bar was a small act of desperation. All that’s changed now. Our drinks got better, our bartenders got better, and our snacks have finally followed suit. It seems a…

1 Charlito’s Cocina Salami Picante The spiciest of this Queens, NY–based line of Spanish salami gets its heat from a house blend of chiles. $15 for 6 oz.; charlitoscocina.com 2 Chop Sopressata Coming out of the Portland, OR, cured-meat scene, a whitepeppercorn-laced sopressata that skews both sweet and spicy. $10 for 6 oz.;chopbutchery.com 3 Creminelli Coppa The cloverubbed pork shoulder from this Salt Lake City company is fatty like prosciutto, with more nutty, complex flavors. $60 for 2 lb.; creminelli.com 4 Olympia Provisions Loukanika Celeb salumist Elias Cairo uses a family recipe for this cumin-citrus Greek number out of Portland, OR. $10 for 4.5 oz.; olympia provisions.com 5 Boccalone Brown Sugar and Fennel The brown sugar in this Bay Area–made salami leaves no sweetness, only soft caramel notes. $32 for…

You’ve heard of salsa verde. But have you heard of Fried Herb Salsa Verde? Here’s how we take it to the next level. Pour vegetable oil into a small saucepan to come 2" up sides and heat over medium. Fry 1 cup sage leaves until sizzling subsides, 15–20 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels; season with salt. Repeat process with ½ cup rosemary leaves. Place fried herbs in a medium bowl and finely crush with a wooden spoon. Mix in ½ cup finely chopped parsley and 1 finely grated garlic clove, then ½ cup olive oil and 2 tsp. red wine vinegar; season generously with salt and pepper. Let sit at least 15 minutes before serving. DO AHEAD: Salsa verde can be made 6 hours ahead. Store…

SERVE IT FORTH We love eggplant Parm warm. We love it cold. We love it next to salad or in a sub. The only way we don’t love eggplant Parm? Right out of the oven. Trying to slice into the dish while it’s molten hot creates an oozy mess, so let it rest at room temp for at least 30 minutes to firm up before serving. BA’s Best Eggplant Parmesan MARINARA ¼ cup olive oil 1 head of garlic, cloves crushed 1 large red onion, chopped 3 oil-packed anchovy fillets (optional) ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1 Tbsp. tomato paste ¼ cup dry white wine 2 28-oz. cans whole peeled tomatoes ¼ cup torn basil leaves ½ tsp. dried oregano Kosher salt EGGPLANT AND ASSEMBLY 4 lb. Italian eggplants…

THE LAMB CONES TO THE TABLE WITH ALL THE GLORY OF A CENTERPIECE THAT HAS BEEN IN THE WORKS for the better part of a day The meat went over the flames at ten that morning. Now, it might be ten at night, but no one gathered around the long table has thought to check. At the head sits Andrew Tarlow, and the 25 people helping themselves to vinegary cipollines and passing plates of greens are the chefs, managers, pastry cooks, bread bakers, and bartenders who, on any other night, make his mini-empire of neighborhood restaurants run. Tonight, in the soaring dining room of Tarlow’s Brooklyn brownstone, surrounded by half-drunk bottles and candles burning low, they’re his guests. The many successful restaurants under the Tarlow umbrella are often credited with…

TRAVEL PLANNER R.S.V.P. pp. 10–12 BAR MELUSINE 1060 E. Union St., Seattle; 206-900-8808; barmelusine.com BOEUFHAUS 1012 N. Western Ave., Chicago; 773-661-2116; boeufhaus.com/home DRIFTERS WIFE 63 Washington Ave., Portland, ME; 207-805-1336; drifterswife.com ELIZABETH STREET CAFE 1501 S. First St., Austin; 512-291-2881; elizabethstreetcafe.com THE MOMENT pp. 15–16 BAR GOTO 245 Eldridge St., NYC; 212-475-4411; bargoto.com BAR MELUSINE 1060 E. Union St., Seattle; 206-900-8808; barmelusine.com BARNACLE 4743 Ballard Ave. NW, Seattle; 206-706-3379; thebarnaclebar.com BILLY SUNDAY 3143 W. Logan Blvd., Chicago; 773-661-2485; billy-sunday.com DAMN THE WEATHER 116 First Ave. S, Seattle; 206-946-1283; damntheweather.com EDDY 95 Eddy St., Providence, RI; 401-831-3339; eddybar.com EVERSON ROYCE BAR 1936 E. Seventh St., L.A.; 213-335-6166; erbla.com FORT DEFIANCE 365 Van Brunt St., Brooklyn; 347-453-6672; fortdefiancebrooklyn.com THE LONG ISLAND BAR 110 Atlantic Ave., Brooklyn; 718-625-8908; thelongislandbar.com MONEYGUN 660 W. Lake…