Indholdsfortegnelse for February 2021 i Bon Appetit

IT WOULD BE DRAMATIC to say I hate February, but sometimes in the dead of winter, dramatics are necessary. February (here in New York, at least) is dreary, cold, dark. It’s cancel-plans weather, wearthe-same-sweatpants-every-day weather. Needless to say, it’s not a month that inspires great creativity in me. But this year, on the heels of a very long stretch of canceling plans and wearing the same sweatpants, I’m trying to stay positive and reframe how I feel about it. Which is why I love this month’s Healthyish issue so much. It’s bright and fun, and it makes me want to get out of my comfort zone and try some new things. Take the “Feel Good Food Plan” (page 44), for which we asked the mega-talented DeVonn Francis to develop eight…

“I’m kind of a salad boy all year round,” says DeVonn Francis, chef, entrepreneur, and the brains behind these eight new recipes. “Especially in January, when I’m indoors a lot, I want to feel really good about what’s going on in my kitchen.” That doesn’t mean only salads, he goes on to explain, just balanced veg-forward meals—like the shrimp and cabbage curry at right—that get everything he needs and wants into one dish. Francis, who is also the founder of Yardy, a food and events company in NYC, gets a lot of cooking inspiration from his upbringing. That influence shows up in his dishes’ Caribbean inflections as well as his emphasis on resourcefulness (his mom fed three kids and a husband while working full-time). “The basis of all these recipes…

STEP-BY-STEPS TIPS & TRICKS Tofu Does It All Silken or super-firm. Blocks or sheets or knots. Baked or fried or braised. There are countless types of tofu (and even more ways to eat it), so we asked some soy experts for their best shopping and cooking tips 1 THERE’S A TOFU FOR THAT If you gravitate toward extra-firm tofu for searing or frying or softer varieties for stewing and slurping, expand your horizons: There’s a tofu for every application. Here are my two rules of thumb: Tofu is a flavor sponge—the softer it is, the more it will take on seasonings. And like jeans sizing, tofu texture varies by brand—“firm” can seem like “extra-firm” depending on the maker, so shop and cook often to find a favorite. — ANDREA NGUYEN,…

A WINTER SQUASH is the cozy sweater of the vegetable world, but peeling one can be a cumbersome job—which is why we often skip the process entirely by using varieties with edible skins. You can make Molly Baz’s cheesy squash gratin (p.12) with virtually any winter squash, but choosing types you don’t need to peel, such as colorful delicata or sturdy acorn, keeps prep to a minimum. Mix and match a few different varieties to make the finished dish pop. Cheesy Winter Squash Gratin Whether you use a mix of squash or just one kind, slice the pieces all the same size so they cook evenly RECIPE BY MOLLY BAZ 4–6 SERVINGS 5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided, plus more for pan3½ lb. delicata and/or acorn squash, halved, seeds removed, cut…

Equipment I bought a Schwinn IC3 stationary bike on sale at Dick’s Sporting Goods. Then I picked up some pandemic-surge-priced eight-pound dumbbells. I stacked up stolen sweat towels from the country’s finest Hampton Inns. Dented Bluetooth speaker, yoga mat…check. Instead of the steam room, I steam up my shower. Instead of the locker-room gossip, I think about what’s for lunch and where my life is headed. I named a spider on the stairwell Dan (sorry, Dan). Workouts YouTube, Aaptiv, and the Cindy Crawford workout tape from 1992 where she does crunches in jean cutoffs. But I decided that any movement counts as “going to the gym” now, and switching it up keeps things from getting boring in these very repetitive times. I like walking a loop around the neighborhood, checking…

WE ARE A FAMILY that never closes the bathroom door. The habit started back when my spouse and I began dating—I resented anything getting in the way of our running conversation. Thirteen years and two children later, it’s for practical reasons: Someone might fall into the toilet or squeeze a tube of toothpaste onto the floor. During the pandemic, my family’s world is our house. My husband works in our garage. My daughter attends kindergarten on an iPad next to her bed while I work in the guest room. But the door is always open, my neck craned as I half-listen for panicky cries: “My screen is frozen!” In an attempt to give each other uninterrupted time, my spouse and I split the weekdays. On a recent Thursday (my day…

MY FAVORITE BREAKFAST as a kid was a toasted English muffin with Cheez Whiz. In college I went through a six-pack of Pepsi every three days. Now I’m the acting director of New York University’s Dietetic Internship program. BACK WHEN I WAS A STUDENT in NYU’s nutrition program, my class was all rich, skinny white women. Years later not much has changed: 81 percent of registered dietitians are white. This creates an unbalanced system that lacks cultural competence. Every day, as these dietitians cry about diet culture and post expensive collagen powders on Instagram, Black people are dying because of structural racism in health care. AS I WATCH PROTESTS across the world against the devaluation of Black lives, it strikes me that this is not just true for the justice…

Roxana Jullapat is a total grain-head. After I spoke with the co-owner of L.A. bakery Friends & Family last fall, her enthusiasm for really old grains rubbed off on me like rice flour on a black apron. It wasn’t long before I was scouring my local co-op for spelt flour, sorghum flour, and multiple cornmeals. Soon I was cooking my way through her fantastic forthcoming cookbook, Mother Grains, which focuses on eight domestically grown whole grains: barley, buckwheat, corn, oat, rice, rye, sorghum, and certain species of wheat. These are widely considered “ancient grains” because they’ve remained largely unchanged over hundreds of years. The book features a mix of savory dishes and baked goods, many of which are homespun favorites enlivened with nutty-delicious whole grain flours, like blueberry muffins that…

SHOPPING LIST NO BOOZE, NO PROBLEM p.20 ATHLETIC BREWING CO. GOLDEN ALE, $13 per sixpack; athleticbrewing.com BAUHAUS BREW LABS AMBER LAGER, $13 per sixpack; bauhausbrewlabs.com BRAVUS BREWING RASPBERRY GOSE, $11 per sixpack; store.bravus.com SURREAL BREWING CREATIVES IPA, $13 per six-pack; surrealbrewing.com TWO ROOTS BREWING CO. HELLES LAGER, $12 per six-pack; tworootsbrewing.com HEALTHYISH HOME pp.22–29 P.26 DUSEN DUSEN NAPKINS SET, $42 for four; dusendusen.com P.27 ELEONOR BOSTRÖM MATCHSTICK DOG, $88; mociun.com P.27 WATCH ME CLOCK, $300; comingsoonnewyork.com EATING WITH AN EYE TOWARD THE PAST p.43 VINTAGE POSTCARDS FROM THE AFRICAN WORLD: IN THE DIGNITY OF THEIR WORK AND THE JOY OF THEIR PLAY, $25; amazon.com THE JEMIMA CODE, $40; amazon.com THE WHOLE OKRA, $21; amazon.com THE FEEL GOOD FOOD PLAN pp.44–57 P.48 CASA VERDE CANDY CANE STRIPE DINNER PLATE, $74; pomelocasa.com…

Professional organizer Faith Roberson is here to restore order in our overworked, undercleaned kitchens Just Add Turntables Revolving trays maximize space in cabinets, under the sink, and inside your fridge. Measure your shelves before buying, then rotate as needed. You’ll never lose a jar of mustard again. Go Multipurpose Keep an eye out for versatile items that free up your shelves and your budget. Use a salad spinner insert as a colander, and mason jars for storing dried goods or drinking. Relocate the Junk Drawer Move that rubber band ball into another less-trafficked room, then use the newly empty kitchen drawer to store small appliances, utensils, and spices. Use That Wall Space Install hooks on empty kitchen walls to hang pots and pans. Your most-used kitchenware will be at the…

I WAS IN SEDONA to forgive my mother. After over a decade of estrangement, this trip was the first time we would spend more than a few hours together since I was eight years old. My mother’s house had a stunning view of red rock canyons. How beautiful, I thought as I stepped out of the car. In my gut resentment gurgled, but I tried to ignore it. That resentment, I reminded myself, didn’t serve me. That was why I had found my mother’s phone number on the internet and dialed it; why I had agreed to fly here from New York. My mother showed me to the room where I would be staying. One of my half sisters—Wahida—would be arriving soon. She lived in Tucson. My half brother was…

ASK MARICELA VEGA what drives her cooking and she’ll talk about relationships. Relationships with farmers, with community, with family and ancestors and the earth itself. “Food doesn’t just magically appear,” she says. “I rely on so many to do what I do.” For the chef at Atlanta restaurant 8ARM and founder of Chicomecóatl, an organization centering Indigenous foodways, using mostly vegetables—and only when they’re local and in season—is a form of empathy. Vega’s strong farmer ties yield lush peach pound cakes in summer and crispy-cushiony squash empanadas come fall. “If you’re eating a tomato in the middle of February, someone is feeling the consequence,” she says. “To me, cooking well is about making the most of what’s here now, and not asking for more.” Of course, this philosophy is nothing…