Indholdsfortegnelse for June/July 2021 i Bon Appetit

I WORK WITH THE MOST food-obsessed group of chefs, home cooks, journalists, and designers you’ll ever meet. They have strong opinions on everything from what constitutes a well-stocked pantry to which brand makes the best Dutch oven. Yet even we are ready to banish those Dutch ovens to the back of the cabinet, not to be seen again until the fall. We’re ready to get out and explore the great outdoors as Nicole A. Taylor implores us to do in her Juneteenth article on page 22 or to go sailing, as the hip shirt worn by the reveler on page 81 suggests. If you, like us, are balancing the impulse to be outside with the desire to transform all those colorful, seasonal fruits and vegetables overflowing at the farmers markets…

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP Belonging somewhere among jam, compote, and caramel sauce, this spoon-over-everything sweet-tart topping is made by thinning a caramel with fruit juice and vinegar rather than cream. The consistency of your final product will vary greatly depending on the nature of your fruit, like whether it’s super juicy or how much pectin it contains. Embrace the variance (and follow your instincts!)—it will taste great any which way. Mix and match the fruit and vinegar based on what sounds good to you and what you have on hand (maybe it’s plums and unseasoned rice vinegar, nectarines and sherry vinegar, or apricots and Champagne vinegar). 12 oz. ripe stone fruit (such as plums, peaches, nectarines, sour or sweet cherries, or apricots), pitted2–3 Tbsp. vinegar (such as unseasoned rice, apple cider,…

• Metal Slat Patio Folding Chairs, $35 each; target.com • Folding Cafe Table, $345; departo.co • DuraClear Tritan Double Old-Fashioned Glasses, $78 for six; williams-sonoma.com • Colorama Plate and Bowl, $22 and $16; comingsoonnewyork.com • URI Portable Table Lamp, $50; store.moma.org ALUMINUM TUMBLERS “I bought these handmade cups in Mexico as a gift for my boyfriend, but the truth is they’re mine now. They are the ideal on-the-go wine glasses. I literally keep some in my bag for impromptu park trips (along with my folded-up picnic blanket, of course). But they’re also cute enough for a real table setting. Get a mix of colors, which looks great and is helpful for remembering whose cup is whose.” $8 each; utilitariomexicano.com Christa Guerra, art director CITRONELLA CANDLE “I would use these candles even…

THE LAST MEAL I SHARED with my mother was in a capacious hospital room in Chesapeake, Virginia. It was breakfast time and the sun was a carefree soul galloping through the window like a wild horse. Having not eaten much in the 48 hours since she’d been admitted with complications of sarcoidosis, she was quite hungry. So I fed her. Spooned the applesauce. Placed in her mouth a few ice chips from the water glass she couldn’t finish (crunching ice always gratified her). That was 2017. The year my heart broke into a million jagged puzzle pieces. None of us is ever prepared for death. When a great tree falls, the birds, with no branch to perch on, scatter. Looking for a new home. In the four years since my…

SHOPPING LIST SUMMER READING LIST pp. 18–19 P. 19 ACT YOUR AGE, EVE BROWN, $16; amazon.com P. 19 ARSENIC AND ADOBO, $16; amazon.com P. 19 LIZZIE & DANTE, $27; amazon.com P. 19 A PHO LOVE STORY, $20; amazon.com P. 19 THE SEED KEEPER, $16; amazon.com P. 19 SOMEWHERE BETWEEN BITTER AND SWEET, $10; amazon.com P. 19 YOLK, $20; amazon.com HOLIDAY SPECIAL pp. 22–23 P. 22 BROOKLYN BLOOMS, brooklynblooms.com P. 22 CUISINART SNOW CONE MAKER, $80; cuisinart.com P. 22 HARLEM TOILE DE JOUY PLATTER, $45; glitterville.com P. 22 THE LAST O.G. COOKBOOK, $27; barnesandnoble.com P. 22 NIPPLE HOOP EARRINGS, $250; lorrainewestjewelry.com P. 23 BLK MKT VINTAGE, blkmktvintage.com P. 23 PASSPORT TO YOUR NATIONAL PARKS, $10; shop.americasnationalparks.org P. 23 THE PLATE SALE, theplatesale.com P. 23 UNCLE NITTY’S LEMON PEPPER, $9; unclenitty.org OUTDOOR ESSENTIALS…

MAKES ABOUT 20 There’s no summer beverage better than a puckering fruit shrub mixed with club soda (and maybe a shot of gin, vodka, or tequila) over ice. There are many ways to make a shrub, but we prefer the cold-process method in which ripe berries and sugar macerate for a day until they turn into a flavorful syrup. Mix the syrup with vinegar and you’ve got the makings of an instant party drink. You can drink the shrub right away, but it will taste even better after a week or so when the flavors have mellowed. SHRUB 12 oz. berries (such as raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, or strawberries), sliced or quartered if large1½ cups (or more) granulated sugar1 cup (or more) vinegar (such as red wine, white wine, apple cider, white…

Ginger-Cardamom Zucchini Bread MAKES ONE 9X5" LOAF Close to bread pudding in texture, this loaf cake (or is it bread? we still can’t decide) walks the blurry line between sweet and savory. STREUSEL ¾ cup (42 g) all-purpose flour2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. (30 g) dark brown sugar¼ cup (24 g) old-fashioned oats½ tsp. ground cardamom½ tsp. ground ginger½ tsp. ground turmeric¼ tsp. baking powder Pinch of kosher salt2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, cooled slightly BREAD Nonstick vegetable oil spray 2½ medium zucchini (about 1 lb.), trimmed¾ tsp. vanilla extract1½ cups (300 g) granulated sugar Zest of 1 lemon3 large eggs¾ cup grapeseed oil1¾ cups (219 g) all-purpose flour2¼ tsp. ground cardamom2¼ tsp. ground ginger2 tsp. baking powder¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher saltBlueberry jam and/or creme…

Tahini-Smothered Charred Cabbage Summer might just be my favorite season to eat cabbage, because a hot grill has the ability to transform it in a way the oven or stovetop never will. The outside gets blistered and charred while the inside steams to a toothy crisp-tenderness and every bite is perfumed with smoke. I think it’s irresistible with little more than a sprinkling of salt, but this creamy, very lemony tahini sauce takes an already craveable vegetable into extra-delicious territory. Grab a knife and fork and don’t be surprised when you finish the whole thing by yourself. —Andy Baraghani, senior food editor 4 servings 1 medium head of green cabbage (about 2 lb.)3 Tbsp. plus v cup extra-virgin olive oil; plus more for drizzling (optional)Kosher salt1 garlic clove, finely grated⅓…

MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART You can go with black or white sesame seeds for these pickles, just be aware that the black ones may tint the brine a bit. 1 lb. kirby, Persian, or English hothouse cucumbers, sliced ½" thick½ lemon, thinly sliced into rounds, seeds removed1 small green chile (such as serrano), thinly sliced1 2" piece ginger, peeled, julienned1½ cups unseasoned rice vinegar¼ cup sugar4 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2 tsp. Morton kosher salt1 Tbsp. sesame seeds SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A 1-qt. glass jar with a lid Place cucumbers in jar. Bring lemon slices, chile, ginger, vinegar, sugar, salt, sesame seeds, and 2 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan and cook, stirring, until sugar and salt are dissolved, about 1 minute. Let cool. Pour brine over cucumbers in…

A BOUQUET TO CELEBRATE Juneteenth isn’t the time for moody blooms—it’s all about vivid dahlias, gomphrena, and brunia. LaParis Phillips, owner of Brooklyn Blooms (brooklynblooms.com), understands tradition, tone, and color stories. GO FOR GOLD “Bury me in gold, bury me in gold. Just in case I’m forsaken, and I have to pay for my soul,” preaches Meridian, Mississippi, rapper Big K.R.I.T. His lyrics sway between gold watches, sweet potatoes, spirituality, and Afrofuturistic joy. I get my gold with designer Lorraine West’s big brass Nipple Hoop Earrings ($250; lorrainewestjewelry.com), a must-have adornment for special occasions and everyday pleasure. This is the year we stop shaming our families for buying trendy kitchen gadgets and let them have fun. This Snow Cone Maker ($80; cuisinart.com) crushes ice into fluffy crystals you can douse…

AT MY FIRST JOB, post-culinary school, my chef brought in whole pigs and showed me Italian seam butchery, which relies on knives—no saws—and uses the animal’s entire muscles. From the moment I held the fillet knife and made my first cuts, I was hooked. I WENT ALL IN on butchery, working my way up to become the head butcher at Fleishers in Kingston, New York. The shop was a community anchor. After it closed in March 2017, people asked me, “When are you opening your own shop?” I WAS RELUCTANT. I left restaurants because of the toxic culture. Butcher shops had better vibes, hours, and pay, but they can be intimidating. That world has a strong cisgender white maleness, and I’m trans and not white. BUT I LOVED THE CRAFT.…

Don’t worry about the bears. Get to your nearest campground, state park, or neighbor’s backyard and cook dinner under the stars. We’ll help make it as easy as possible because no one likes doing dishes in the woods. 1 GET YOUR GEAR IN ORDER Your camp kitchen setup can be as elaborate or as barebones as you want it to be, but sometimes the gear is half the fun. Buy a giant bin with a lid that can be used to fan the fire, then fill it with your tool kit, which should include… THE KITCHEN DOPP KIT Fill this space-saving bag with: a decent chef’s knife, a plastic cutting board, matches, cheap cutlery, Nalgene minis filled with olive oil and vinegar, and an all-purpose multitool like a Leatherman. Camp…