Indholdsfortegnelse for August 2021 i Bon Appetit

Grill and Go WITH RECIPES FOR grilled scallops, chicken, and veggies, we’ve labeled this the grilling issue. But we could have easily called it the inspiration issue. Here at Bon Appétit, we’re inspired to travel again, so we turned to food people (chefs, shop owners, and cookbook authors) for advice on planning food-focused getaways. Where, we asked them, do they take guests to eat and sightsee when showing off their respective hometowns? I don’t know about you, but after an intense 2020, I want to keep my weekend bag packed so I can explore every destination in this package (page 70), whether it’s just a short flight away like New Orleans and Charleston or 12 hours ahead, like Singapore, with its UNESCO-protected hawker culture. (Okay, I’d need more than a…

4 SERVINGS 3 Tbsp. oyster sauce1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar1 tsp. toasted sesame oil4 skinless, boneless chicken thighs (about 1 lb.), cut into 1“ piecesKosher salt2 Tbsp. cornstarch4 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided½ small red onion, sliced4 garlic cloves, sliced1 1“ piece ginger, peeled, finely chopped½ tsp. (or more) Aleppo-style pepper or other mild chile flakes3 ears of corn, kernels cut from cobs Steamed rice and cilantro leaves with tender stems (for serving) 1. Stir together oyster sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, and 2 Tbsp. water in a small bowl. Set aside. 2. Place chicken in a medium bowl. Season with salt and sprinkle with cornstarch; toss lightly to coat. Heat 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large wellseasoned wok or nonstick skillet over medium-high. Cook chicken, tossing occasionally, until golden brown…

4 SERVINGS 4 5–6-oz. cod or other flaky whitefish filletsKosher salt2 Tbsp. cornstarch or all-purpose flour6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced4 Tbsp. unsalted butter1 tsp. toasted sesame oil1 1" piece ginger, peeled, finely chopped2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1. Pat fish dry with paper towels; season with salt. Sprinkle one side with an even layer of cornstarch; brush off excess. Heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Lay fish, cornstarch side down, in skillet and cook, shaking pan occasionally, until golden, crisp, and opaque around the edges, 6–8 minutes. Turn fish over and cook just until fillets are cooked through and flake easily with a fork, 1–2 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, place scallions in a medium heatproof bowl. Combine butter, sesame oil,…

The 101 What Are They? Cherries are stone fruit, in season during early summer in Washington and California and late summer in Michigan. BUYING Look for shiny, plump cherries on the bigger side, without blemishes or bruises. Don’t worry about whether the stem is intact—that doesn’t affect how good the cherry will be. STORING Eat them ASAP and keep them on the counter; they’ll get mealy in the fridge. Sour cherries have 36 hours (they’re sensitive, okay?); sweet cherries have 3 to 4 days. SWEET AND SOUR There are hundreds of varieties of sweet cherries, from Bing to Rainier, though it’s hard to tell the difference in a taste test. But there’s a big difference between sweet and sour (also known as tart) cherries: SWEET CHERRIES are for snacking, contain…

SALT MAKES EVERYTHING BETTER, from toast with jam to chocolate chip cookies to watermelon (trust us!). So why aren’t we looking beyond the margarita rim and salting our cocktails? “Salt in drinks is underrated,” says Nahiel Nazzal, bar director and partner of San Francisco’s Pearl 6101. “It adds balance, opens your palate, and makes you want to take another sip.” Nazzal loves stirring a pinch into classics like Negronis as well as drinks with sweeter notes, like this strawberry daiquiri, which relies on an easy fruit-infused simple syrup and just a sprinkle of salt. Just like with that chocolate chip cookie, you won’t even know the salt’s there—but you’ll be glad to have it. Salted Strawberry Daiquiri SYRUP Bring 8 oz. strawberries, hulled, halved, quartered if large, and 2 cups…

STRAWBERRY HALVA SHORTCAKES P. 48 BLUEBERRY AND PEACH GRAHAM GALETTE P. 48 Strawberry-Halva Shortcakes 8 SERVINGS Studded with chunks of sesame halva and bittersweet chocolate, these biscuits are delicious enough to eat all on their own, but when layered with cream and strawberries, they really shine. If fruit with chocolate isn’t your cup of tea, feel free to omit the latter. BISCUITS 1 large egg¼ cup buttermilk1 tsp. vanilla extract¼ cup heavy cream, plus more for brushing1¾ cups (219 g) all-purpose flour½ cup (50 g) granulated sugar2½ tsp. baking powder½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt¼ tsp. baking soda6 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces4 oz. sesame halva, broken into ½"–1" pieces3 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped Sanding sugar (for sprinkling) ASSEMBLY 1½ lb. fresh strawberries, hulled, quartered2…

The Rice It’s important to seek out rice imported from Thailand for proper results. If you spot “Sanpatong” on the package, that’s even better, as it refers to a high-quality variety from San Pa Tong District in Chiang Mai. Brands to look for: Three Horses, Three Rings, or Three Ladies. The Equipment A heatproof sieve set over a saucepan of boiling water mimics the traditional setup, in which the rice is steamed in a cone-shaped bamboo basket that sits atop a metal pot. The Serving Method No utensils here! Pinch off a bit of rice and knead it lightly with your fingertips. Then use your bite-size morsel of rice as a “spoon” to soak up any dish at the table that’s saucy or brothy.…

If the idea of cheese over an open fire sounds bizarre, it simply means you’re not choosing the right kind. A good grilling cheese will char but not ooze through the grates. Here are three to try. Paneer This creamy non-aged Indian cheese is made from curdled buffalo or cow’s milk and doesn’t melt, so it holds up on the grill. Use it as a medium for all kinds of marinades, wet or dry. Our favorite brand is Sach—ethically sourced and extra rich ($8 for 6 oz.; sachfoods.com). Halloumi Salty, semihard, and unripened, Cyprus’s most famous dairy export is made with a blend of goat and sheep milks, and its high melting point means no mess. Serve it on a bun with your favorite toppings a la our Seared Squash…

I don’t eat big breakfasts, but I love to kick-start my morning with coffee and whatever pastry catches my eye at the Orange Couch. From there I’d head to The National WW II Museum for an education in global history. For lunch we’re zipping over to Parkway Bakery & Tavern for po’boys (the restaurant calls them poor boys). I love a good po’boy, and nobody does it like NOLA. I crave roast beef, catfish, or oyster, but no matter what, I ask for it dressed (with mayo, lettuce, and tomatoes). Then it’s over to Crescent Park for unparalleled views of the Mississippi River before stopping for wine at Bacchanal. Dinner’s gotta be Paladar 511. Anyone who knows me knows I love Italian food, and everything here is so flavorful. After…

If we’re hanging with friends from out of town, we’d meet them at the train with breakfast sandwiches from Kitty’s. Then we’d take them to the Hudson Farmers Market (open only on Saturdays) to say hello to our shop vendors, like Sparrowbush Farm, a bakery that makes fresh breads with organic grains it grows and mills. Then we’d check out cool stores on Warren Street: Batterby House, a charming kitchen shop, and Red Chair, which is stocked with beautiful French antiques. At this point it’s time for coffee so we’d get cappuccinos at Supernatural Coffee. For a late lunch it’s Cafe Mutton—chef Shaina Loew-Banayan serves unpretentious food, like country pâté sandwiches. Then we’d get in the car and take our friends to historic site Olana for the most incredible view…

SHOPPING LIST SHOP TOUR p. 22 12" SISAL BOWL, $60; hiddengemny.com BENT CANDLES, $25 for two; hiddengemny.com EVIL EYE PLATE, $125; hiddengemny.com HAND-DYED TEA TOWELS, $24 each; hiddengemny.com LINEN APRON, $85; hiddengemny.com RESIN CHARCUTERIE BOARD, $145; hiddengemny.com THE ONE-SHEET p. 26 OXO QUICK-RELEASE MULTI-CHERRY PITTER, $20; crateandbarrel.com QUESTIONABLE ETIQUETTE p. 33 24-CAN-SIZE SPORTSMAN, AO COOLERS, $70; amazon.com FIRED UP FOR THAI pp. 54–61 FLAVORS OF THE SOUTHEAST ASIAN GRILL: CLASSIC RECIPES FOR SEAFOOD AND MEATS COOKED OVER CHARCOAL, $28; bookshop.org BASICALLY pp. 81–84 BIANCO DINAPOLI WHOLE PEELED ORGANIC TOMATOES, $38 for four; shopbianco.com VICTORINOX 4-INCH SWISS CLASSIC PARING KNIFE WITH SERRATED EDGE, $10; amazon.com TRAVEL PLANNER SHOP TOUR p. 22 HIDDEN GEM 47 Jobs Lane, Ste. B, Southampton, NY; 631-259-3494; hiddengemny.com PERSON OF INTEREST p. 28 FLOWER & FLOUR 322…

Peach-Aperol Spritz Cut 1 lb. ripe peaches or nectarines into wedges. Transfer to a large pitcher and muddle to crush slightly. Slice 1 orange and 1 lemon and add to pitcher. Pour in 2 oz. Aperol and ½ oz. Averna amaro, then add one 750-ml bottle chilled sparkling rosé and stir gently to combine. Divide among glasses. 6 servings…

MAKES 4 2 medium summer squashKosher salt1 6–8-oz. package Halloumi cheese2–3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil1 garlic clove, finely grated¼ cup sliced pickled jalapenos, plus 1 Tbsp. pickle juice1 tsp. honeyFreshly ground black pepper4 hamburger buns⅓ cup basil leaves 1. Trim ends from squash. Cut crosswise into 3"-long cylinders; cut cylinders lengthwise into ¼"-thick planks. Spread out on a kitchen towel and sprinkle lightly with salt. Let sit 10 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, slice Halloumi into ½"-thick slabs roughly the width of the buns (about 3" squares). 3. Whisk garlic, pickle juice, honey, and a small pinch of salt in a small bowl; season generously with pepper. Set dressing aside. 4. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Pat squash dry. Working in 2 batches, cook squash in…

“Our brother, Jari Willock, cuts these charcuterie boards from mahogany. Then we pour resin and ink on top, using a hair dryer to get a foamy ocean effect.”RESIN CHARCUTERIE BOARDS $145 This tie-dyeing technique traces back to Antigua, where people create bright costumes for Carnival with powdered dyes over ice. “It’s messy but worth it!” says Tanya.HAND-DYED TEA TOWELS $24…

MY MOM RAISED ME as though I didn’t have a disability. I was born with a clubfoot and had surgery at eight months, but she didn’t want the focus to be on my limitations. I grew up doing ballet, gymnastics, basketball, volleyball. I was recruited from standing volleyball to sitting volleyball when I was 12, left for the 2012 Paralympic Games at 16, and have been playing with the U.S. team ever since. I STARTED BAKING right after the 2016 Paralympic Games. I asked myself, What do I want to do when this is over? Growing up, I thought my sister was the artist and I was the athlete—that’s the box I put myself in. I started experimenting with cookie decorating to find my creative side. MY HUSBAND AND I…

The Patties These are a 50-50 blend of tocino, pork belly cured in annatto and garlic, and longanisa, a type of sausage found across the Philippines. Smashing the patties enhances the slightly sweet flavor both meats are prized for—something Cunanan learned as a burger joint line cook in his 20s. The Bun Cunanan and Dungca couldn’t do brioche (too sweet for the patties) or typically soft potato buns (too gummy after soaking up the patty juices). Their business partner, Arturo Mei, recommended the sturdy, savory potato buns from Ottenberg’s Bakers in Baltimore. Just right. The Pineapple “In my experience, if you’re a Pacific Islander, say from Guam, the Philippines, or Hawaii, you always want pork with pineapple,” Cunanan says. Sliced thinner than the canned stuff and quickly charred on the…

No Bad Seeds These fragile fruits are super thin-skinned, so one bad berry can ruin the whole bunch. Remove any that are already bruised, slimy, or spoiled. But don’t waste the squished sweeties! Save them for smoothies. Spa Treatment Wash berries as soon as you get them home, instead of just before you plan to use them. A quick bath in diluted white vinegar (3 cups water to 2 Tbsp. vinegar) will kill any existing mold spores or bacteria on your fruit. Rinse thoroughly to remove any lingering vinegar taste and dry gently to avoid bruising. We Need Space Crowded berries get smushed easily. Let them breathe by storing them in a wide, flat container lined with paper towels. Cover with a loose-fitting lid to let excess moisture (which breeds…

CHEESY CHARRED GREEN BEANS P. 67 YOGURT-MARINATED MUSHROOMS WITH FLATBREAD P. 68 Being a vegetarian at a carnivore-centered cookout can be tough (especially if your memory is tainted by the soggy skewered tomatoes and dried-out portobellos those meat eaters are always throwing in beside the burgers). But here, at this cookout, vegetables aren’t an afterthought—they’re the main event. So we make the most of them, prioritizing what’s in season and souping it up with grillable cheese, homemade flatbread, and a battery of über-flavorful sauces. Grilled Cauliflower and Broccoli With Lentils 4 SERVINGS Large seasoned cauliflower and broccoli steaks are charred on the grill until crisp on the outside and tender on the inside, then topped with a bright and minty chutney dressing. You can also swap in other cruciferous veg like…

We begin at Babas. Grab coffee, pastries, and enjoy a little pick-me-up on the outdoor patio. Then head out for a bike ride. We’ll usually take King Street all the way down to the Battery and get lost in the streets. Next we hit up 167 Raw for lunch, a pretty clutch move. (To avoid long waits, do a late lunch around 3 p.m. or go on slower days, Tuesdays or Wednesdays.) Start out with drinks, order ceviche and a dozen oysters, and it’ll feel like something’s building. It’s like how your California friends leave the airport and head straight to In-N-Out. 167’s the same for us, just infinitely more bougie. Make sure to go to House of Nomad, an eclectic home goods store nearby. Miles got his mom some…

Los Angeles is so huge that it is impossible to tackle in one day. I live north of downtown, which is central to all my favorites. With just a few freeways, you (or your rideshare driver) can navigate from Miracle Mile to San Marino to get to all of them. I’d start at République, which has exceptional pastries, or I’ll head to All Day Baby, a great dinerinspired restaurant, for the fantastic wedge salad (the dressing is made with labneh!) and hot crab sandwich, which has a smoked-jalapeño mayo that plays so well with the sliced green tomatoes. A beautiful place to walk all that off is on a scenic route through The Huntington in San Marino. After that, it’s time for lunch, which means a thousand-layer pancake at Joy,…

AT THE COUNTER of the roti prata stall, I watch as a hawker smashes, folds, and turns stretchy dough into flatbread. Working quickly, he flips the roti prata, golden brown and flaky soft, onto a plate and hands it to me with hot curry for dipping. Another hawker “pulls” me a cup of teh tarik, pouring a stream of milky black tea between two vessels until frothy, which I sip as I walk by lines for stalls selling prawn noodles, mutton biryani, and curry puffs. This is Tekka Market & Food Centre in Singapore, one of the country’s most wellknown hawker centers, or food markets that are “vibrant communal spaces where Sinagporeans from all walks of life gather to dine and bond,” says Yeo Kirk Siang of the country’s National…

4 SERVINGS 3 oil-packed anchovy fillets1 small garlic clove⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice1 Tbsp. mayonnaise1 tsp. Dijon mustard2 Tbsp. finely grated Parmesan, plus shaved for serving Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper1½ lb. mixed tomatoes, sliced, quartered, or halved½ cup basil leaves 1. Purée anchovies, garlic, oil, lemon juice, mayonnaise, mustard, and 2 Tbsp. Parmesan in a blender until smooth. Season dressing with salt and pepper. (Or, finely chop anchovies and garlic and whisk together dressing in a medium bowl.) 2. Arrange tomatoes on a large plate; drizzle dressing over. Top with basil and shaved Parmesan; season generously with pepper.…

4 SERVINGS Kosher salt12 oz. dried wide rice noodles3 Tbsp. gochujang (Korean hot pepper paste)1 Tbsp. white or yellow miso6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided1½ lb. medium eggplant, preferably Japanese, sliced ¾" thick6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced1 1" piece ginger, peeled, finely chopped2 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste2 Tbsp. unsalted butter3 scallions, thinly sliced¼ cup chopped salted dry-roasted peanuts 1. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a simmer. Remove pot from heat and stir in noodles. Let soak, stirring often, until very al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup noodle cooking liquid. Rinse noodles under cold running water. 2. Mix gochujang and miso in a small bowl, gradually adding 1½ cups warm water, until smooth. 3. Meanwhile, heat 3 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high.…

ACROSS 1 Breakfast restaurant that briefly changed its last letter to a B 5 Desmond who received a Global Champion Against Hunger award from the U.N. 9 Bad malady for a food reviewer 12 Smoked salmon style 13 Kitchen shears sound 14 Yule ___ 15 As ___ on TV (like Ginsu knives and Gotham Steel pans) 16 Baker’s standby whose last word is jargon for money 18 Lose integrity, as a tortilla 20 Cookies that come in Carrot Cake and Chocolate Peanut Butter Pie varieties 21 Slaw vegetable whose last word is slang for money 26 Brand that makes BA’s favorite cherry pitter 27 Nonedible nest eggs 28 Crispy part of pan-fried salmon 32 Grape ___ (Hanna-Barbera cartoon animal) 33 Like sampling wild mushrooms 35 “I was 32 when I…

Do I really have to wait 30+ minutes after eating to swim? —TIMELY TRE NO! The risk of getting a cramp from too much salami is low. And even if you do get one while waiting for the ideal bodysurfing wave (we both know you’re out there to pee), the worst that could happen is you’re a bit uncomfortable and probably whiny. What’s a festive all-daydrinking big-batch cocktail? —ALL-DAY ANITA Adapted from a BA recipe I love: In an insulated thermos that’s at least 30 oz., pour in a chilled bottle of still rosé; add ¼ cup vermouth bianco, a sliced cucumber, and basil. Pack a can of San Pellegrino Limonata. At the beach, fill everyone’s cup with ice, ¾ with rosé sangria, and top it off with lemon soda. How…

HOT HONEY WINGS P. 44 The Wings Cooking wings low and slow in the oven before grilling is a controversial ask, but hear us out: This allows all the fat in the wings to render so it’s not dripping into the grill and causing flareups. (Bonus: This means you can prep these wings ahead of time. You’re welcome!) Once roasted in the oven, toss the wings in a hot honey glaze and finish directly on the grill over medium heat. GRILLED PINEAPPLE DRUMSTICKS P. 44 THE Drumsticks When you’re grilling this part of the leg, you end up walking a fine line: A low temp is necessary for keeping the dark meat tender, but there’s a lot of skin, which you want to crisp up. For the best of both…

Don’t Lose Your Beans Grilling produce can be tricky when it’s small and slippery (looking at you, green beans). But the key to saving your little guys from a fiery death is the same as for keeping fresh-out-of-the-oven cookies from burning: a wire rack ($10; bedbathandbeyond.com). Opt for a dedicated stainlesssteel version that can handle high heat to place directly on the grill—smaller grates mean nobody gets left behind. Veggies + Yogurt 4-Ever For a quick and easy way to pack incredible flavor and depth into your vegetables, marinate them in yogurt, an ingredient that brings its own creaminess and tang while helping spices permeate. The lactic acid will tenderize the vegetables’ top layer, and the yogurt’s clinginess means it will form a crispy exterior when cooked over flames. Opt…

Start in Logan Square at Pan Artesanal. It’s a mix of oldschool Mexican and new-school American pastries and full of creative flow. Then savor your morning cup at Four Letter Word Coffee, a beautifully designed but cozy café. For lunch, grab a sandwich or salad at West Town’s All Together Now, then head to McKinley Park for Marz Community Brewing Co. It serves some of the best beer, but stay for the doughnuts (Sundays only!) and katsu sando at Mom’s, a Japanese-inspired pop-up inside the brewery. A few miles north in Pilsen, you’ll come across murals on 16th and 18th streets and Semillas Plant Studio, which has the cutest plants, pots, and locally made curiosities. And just beyond the city in River Grove sits the classic hot dog stand, Gene…

I love starting my day with the whole family at Upcountry Farmers Market, smack in the middle of the island. All the cool stuff is out in the morning, like rambutan. We’d drive north to Makawao Town, known for paniolo—Hawaiian cowboys who live and work there—and walk around the main streets. Then let's head west. Grab some poke from Oki’s Seafood Corner, which has fish you don’t normally see like aku (skipjack tuna) and ono (wahoo), and hit up Launiupoko Beach. You’ll notice we haven’t eaten much, and that’s because we’re saving up for Papa’aina, chef Lee Anne Wong’s freaking awesome brunch spot up north. She’s got noodles and cocktails like the bourbon-forward Miso Mashed, but my favorite thing is the French toast: Hawaiian sweet bread soaked in coconut milk,…

STEP-BY STEP TIPS & TRICKS 1 Is Heirloom Hype Real? Heirloom tomatoes come from seeds that have been passed down through generations (usually at least 50 years). Unlike commercial varieties, the seeds have not been hybridized to select for particular traits (e.g., to be shelfstable and shippable) and the plants are open-pollinated (i.e., by natural forces rather than human hand) and typically low-yield. Heirloom tomatoes tend to be more flavorful for many reasons. For one, they often have thin walls, leaving more room for the seed-surrounding jelly that contains most of the savory glutamates. But it’s also important to remember that heirlooms aren’t always better (or organic or local). Breeders continue to develop varieties for taste rather than commercial viability, which means new hybrids (like the Green Zebra, invented in…