Indholdsfortegnelse for February 2022 i Bon Appetit

IF YOU LIVE ANYWHERE NEAR Washington, D.C., the Beltway—also known as Interstate 495, the highway that encircles the nation’s capital—is synonymous with traffic jams and gridlock. If you don’t live near the D.C. metro area, the Beltway is a metaphor for a whole different kind of gridlock and political unpleasantness. But this 64-mile stretch of asphalt does have one very special thing going for it: a whole network of suburban communities in Maryland and Virginia that are as diverse as they are delicious to explore. Truly, to travel the Beltway is to sample the flavors of the world. Cheesy, crisp-edged pupusas, lamb-fragrant hand-cut noodle soups, fiery Korean-fried chicken wings, and aromatic jollof rice, all on one tank of gas. Who says driving in circles has to be a bad thing?…

CARAMEL SAUCE makes everything better—ice cream, popcorn, and even…fish? Seafood may not have been where your mind wandered, but associate food editor Kendra Vaculin swears the turmeric-packed caramel on page 22 is the ultimate condiment for coating a fillet of flaky cod or any other whitefish. “Those fish are so delicate and plain, they really want some kind of high-octane sauce to punch them up,” Vaculin says. This sticky, savory-sweet dressing is a harmonious marriage of soy sauce, sugar, and a heap of ground turmeric. “Use your best turmeric,” Vaculin says, citing BA-beloved brands like Spicewalla, Diaspora Co., and Burlap & Barrel. “You’ll really taste every last bit of it.”…

4 SERVINGS 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil2 large shallots, thinly sliced1 10-oz. package frozen spinach, thawed, drained1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour Kosher salt¾ cup heavy cream, divided1 15-oz. can chickpeas, rinsed¼ cup harissa paste (preferably New York Shuk)½ cup giardiniera, coarsely chopped, or sliced pickled cherry peppers¼ cup sliced pickled cherry peppers½ cup store-bought fried shallotsWarm flatbread and lemon wedges (for serving) 1. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium. Cook shallots, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add spinach, flour, and a large pinch of salt; cook, stirring constantly, until flour is well combined, about 1 minute. Add ½ cup cream and ½ cup water and cook, stirring occasionally, until spinach is thick and creamy, about 4 minutes. Taste creamed spinach and season with more salt if…

THE LAST THING I ate as a husband—and arguably, as a man—was a fried tilapia. The fish had been caught from a skiff on the shore of Lake Victoria and only an hour or two later dredged in flour, fried to a golden crisp in a vat of vegetable oil over a wood fire, and served to me with lime and piri-piri sauce. I could still taste the green flavor of algae in the flaky white flesh. My senses all registered that I had before me a truly excellent meal, but I ate it glumly across from my then wife, Olive, who picked at a matching fish. We sat on plastic chairs at a wood table banged together with pegs. It was the rainy season: low skies reflected in the…

What happens when a baker from Louisville and a chef from Lima get together? IT STARTED WITH A PAELLA PAN that sat barely used in Danielle Bell’s Brooklyn apartment. For their first dinner party, they made paella. Valencia style, Pablo Osorio had suggested, with rabbit and snails. From Kentucky, where bunnies occasionally hopped through the backyard, Danielle wasn’t a fan of eating rabbits. But she liked the quiet chef from Peru, so they spent the day tracking down ingredients. Even as a teenager, Danielle would invite friends to get dressed up and come over for meals. Pablo is more private: no stranger to cooking for others, but not the type to host a party on his own. Eager to impress each other, they invited a handful of her friends over…

STEP-BYS TEPS TIPS & TRICKS 1 The Cocktail Has Come a Looong Way Historians have a lot of ideas about how the cocktail originated. The general consensus, however, is that it was created sometime around the turn of the 18th century. (Fun fact: The name itself may have something to do with nubs of ginger and horses’ rear ends.) Back then, cocktails consisted of little more than booze, sugar, bitters, and water. These days the world of alcoholic mixed drinks is as exciting as it is diverse—hot, cold, frozen! bubbly, bitter, fruity, creamy!—and you could go a lifetime without sipping the same one twice. 2 The Fridge Is Your Friend High-proof spirits like whiskey, gin, and vodka can sit on your bar indefinitely with no ill effects. But wine-based and…

I realized I couldn’t live without this countertop juicer when I was working in a restaurant making gallons of lemon mayo from scratch every single day. It’s still my go-to because it stands up to all the cooking I do for dinner parties, events, and meals at home. The wide mouth and levered design get the most juice from any citrus, and a strainer filters out seeds and pulp. Even pomegranates don’t stand a chance against this thing.…

Rock Creek Park The park’s 1,754 acres wind through the northwest quadrant of the city, with tons of trails and historical sites to explore Kenilworth Park & Aquatic Gardens This peaceful refuge on the eastern edge of D.C. is beautiful year-round but especially so in July when the lotuses are in bloom. Winkler Botanical Preserve Located southwest of the city, this verdant 44-acre oasis offers easy strolling, babbling streams, and a waterfall. Wheaton Regional Park Featuring a miniature train and a 107-year-old wood carousel, this is the spot to reward car-cranky kids.…

4 SERVINGS 4 limes½ cup (packed) brown sugar3 Tbsp. soy sauce1 Tbsp. ground turmeric¼ tsp. cayenne pepper Kosher salt4 5–6-oz. cod or other flaky whitefish fillets2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Cooked jasmine rice, thinly sliced white onion, mint leaves, and cilantro leaves with tender stems (for serving) 1. Slice 3 limes in half and squeeze through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl (you should have about 5 Tbsp. juice); discard seeds. Cut remaining lime into wedges and set aside for serving. 2. Whisk lime juice, brown sugar, soy sauce, turmeric, cayenne, and a pinch of salt in a small saucepan to combine. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low. Cook, swirling pan occasionally to keep mixture from bubbling up, until thickened, about 8 minutes. Let caramel cool…

4 SERVINGS 4 garlic cloves, divided Zest and juice of 1 small lemon4 Tbsp. plus ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided3½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2 tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided Freshly ground black pepper6 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs1 medium delicata squash6 oz. Halloumi cheese, cut into1" cubes2 tsp. ground cumin4 shallots, thinly sliced1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard1 Tbsp. pure maple syrup1 bunch kale, ribs and stems removed, leaves chopped 1. Place a rack in upper third of oven; preheat to 425°. Finely grate half of garlic into a large bowl. Mix in lemon zest, 3 Tbsp. oil, 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1. tsp. Morton kosher salt; season with pepper. Pat chicken dry and place in bowl, turning and rubbing to evenly coat. 2. Cut squash in half lengthwise; scoop…

The beginning of a new year has always been one of my favorite times to cook. After the chaotic crush of holiday parties, cookie swaps, and too much pét-nat, I look forward to truly relaxing in the kitchen again. I’m ready, to borrow a phrase we use often around here, to “cook how I want to feel.” This kind of cooking is driven by intuition rather than any notion of what I should or shouldn’t eat. I gravitate toward cruciferous vegetables, but instead of ricing cauliflower, which reminds me of bird food, I’m lightly battering it and tossing it in a sticky-sweet sauce (this page). The tofu noodles with chili crisp on page 46 sates my craving for a bowl of dan dan noodles just without the meat. And because…

Center Stage “Islands are getting boring,” Roberts says. Rather than matching the cabinetry, she mixes it up with designs sheathed entirely in stone, like the marble one at fashion designer Ulla Johnson’s Brooklyn brownstone. (“I like a big block of something,” Roberts notes.) Other islands have been detailed to look like furniture, with meticulous joinery in the woodwork. For a kitchen on the North Fork of Long Island, she added eight inches to the legs of a vintage farm table to make it counter height. Room With a View When laying out your kitchen, Roberts advises, “always think about what you want to be looking at.” A sink by the window, for instance, makes washing dishes a scenic experience, whereas a sink on an island allows for interactions with family…

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4 SERVINGS 4 5-oz. packages fresh ramen noodles or four 3-oz. packages dried ramen noodles1 Tbsp. vegetable oil1 2" piece ginger, scrubbed, thinly sliced3 lb. clams (such as littleneck or Manila; about 36), scrubbed3 red Thai chiles, thinly sliced3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced1 cup dry rice wine (such as michiu or sake)¼ cup black or toasted sesame oil2 Tbsp. oyster sauce2 cups Thai basil leaves or4 scallions, thinly sliced 1. Cook noodles in a large pot of boiling water (unsalted), stirring occasionally, according to package directions. Drain noodles, reserving 2 cups noodle cooking liquid; divide among bowls. 2. Meanwhile, heat vegetable oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium. Cook ginger, stirring often, until fragrant and lightly browned on both sides, about 4 minutes. 3. Increase…

“I’M LIKE EVERYBODY ELSE”, says ConAgra CEO Mike Harper as he walks into a private airplane hangar. “I lead a busy life.” In the 1989 commercial Harper tells the camera that after he had a heart attack he couldn’t find “healthy food that was really great-tasting.” So he invented Healthy Choice. Cut to a glamour shot of the low-fat, low-sodium, low-cholesterol frozen dinners: a sectioned oval tray with gravy-covered sirloin tips, a side of baby carrots, potatoes, and a fruit-topped dessert. By the end of the spot, Harper is piloting his little blue propeller plane off the runway. In the three years following that ad, Healthy Choice would rake in $1 billion in sales. And it was hardly alone. Lean Cuisine, Diet Coke, Crystal Light, Bud Light: Diet food became…