Indholdsfortegnelse for May 2022 i Bon Appetit

OUR MAY ISSUE is a particularly interesting one for us at Bon Appétit. We want, as always, to bring you recipes that will expand your cooking repertoire and deliver inspiration for your weeknight and weekend meals. But we also want to explore the important topics surrounding the food we eat, like sustainability, which we approach in a number of ways this month. We contemplate the future of food in two thought-provoking articles, “The Plates of the Future” (page 48) and “Can Sushi Survive?” (page 64). We also highlight ingredients that are wonderful to cook with yet don’t tax the environment, such as mushrooms, which food director Chris Morocco has transformed into five delicious and economical recipes, including a creamy ragù and a miso-mushroom risotto in “A ’Shroom of One’s Own”…

WHEN I MET MY PARTNER, the running joke was that he’d only eat a burger if he could FaceTime the cow first—nothing but sustainably and ethically produced animal products could lure him out of his mostly vegetarianism. I’ve since adopted a version of that mentality myself: A lot of what I make at home is accidentally vegan because I’m particular about the kinds of meat, dairy, and eggs I buy and how often I use them. While this kind of conscious cooking can get a bad rap for focusing more on which foods to avoid than what to celebrate, the flavor-packed plant-based dishes here are centered around versatile pantry staples with low ecological impacts (like most grains and beans) that you can feel good about using abundantly. Spiced Creamy White…

SAN FRANCISCO Refettorio San Francisco was started in 2020 with Farming Hope, an org centered on culinary job training for socially and economically disadvantaged locals. MÉRIDA, MEXICO Opened in 2020 as a collaboration with nonprofit Fundación Palace, Refettorio Mérida is centrally located in the capital of Yucatán, sharing its culinary traditions and flavors for those living in precarious conditions. MODENA, ITALY Refettorio Modena was established in Bottura’s beloved hometown in 2016 with the help of Fondazione Auxilium, and later transitioned to support Caritas Modena. HARLEM, NEW YORK Housed in Manhattan’s historic Emanuel AME Church, Refettorio Harlem (launched in 2020) is led in conjunction with career training program Hospitality Pathways. “A MEAL CAN BE A TRANSFORMATIVE MOMENT…AROUND COMMUNAL TABLES, WE BEGIN BUILDING TRUST AND COMMUNITY.”…

IF YOU CAN EAT AT NOMA, René Redzepi’s pioneering Danish restaurant that’s among the best in the world, you should—it’s worth the hype. But that’s a pretty sizable if. At about $450 per person, excluding drinks, the price can be prohibitive. And good luck securing a reservation—tables are released three times a year through its online ticketing system and are gone like the wind. Plus, Noma shutters in between its three “seasons,” so no dice if your trip to Copenhagen is booked during a closure. The good news is that Noma’s gravitational pull has drawn promising chefs from around the world to Copenhagen like moths to a three-Michelin-star flame. Whether it’s the abundance of bike lanes, the universal health care, or the daylight-filled summers, many members of Noma’s extended family…

IT WAS THE KIND OF SEAFOOD PLACE decorated with old fishing nets studded with starfish that hadn’t made it out in time, plus a couple of battered life jackets lying around suggesting that maybe the sailors hadn’t either. There was a general feel of algae. I was trying to decide if this was the worst date I’d ever been on. A week earlier David and I, who knew each other by sight only (through mutual friends) had run into each other in a bookstore. You know how it is when you don’t like someone even though you’ve never actually spoken? That was us. We managed a half-hearted hello, then eyed each other’s armload of books. No overlap. As we chatted I began to think that maybe I’d misjudged him. He…

1 A VISUAL GUIDE TO SEAWEEDS OF THE WORLD Most of the ocean’s finest veg can be broken down into three categories: red, green, and brown. If you can’t see the difference, that’s because the color isn’t necessarily determined by the leaves. Below are some of the most familiar (and tasty) types: BROWN Alaria Esculenta Grown in the northern Atlantic (and also called badderlocks, dabberlocks, and winged kelp), it has a chicken-y taste. Dasima/Haidai/Kombu An important source of umami, this kelp is a reliable flavor enhancer for Japanese, Korean, Chinese, and Indigenous dishes. GREEN Sea Lettuce Delicate in texture but intensely ocean-y in flavor, these blades are a favorite of the Ohlone people on the California coast. Sea Grapes Across Filipino, Okinawan, and Vietnamese cuisines, this roe-like seaweed is usually…

Sustainability Picks Dropps Dishwasher Detergent Pods $25 for 64; dropps.com This detergent has been an effortless but effective product swap in my sustainability journey. The shipping materials, packaging, and detergent casings are all plastic-free, which helps me happily reduce my plastic footprint. —Shilpa Uskokovic GoodWood Large Cutting Board $115; goodwoodnola.com GoodWood recycles wood scraps from its fabrication and furniture projects to make home goods like this stunner of a cutting board. Each board’s pattern is unique thanks to multihued stripes of maple, cherry, and walnut. —MacKenzie Chung Fegan Ditto Piquette Spritz $32 for eight; drinkditto.com I like tart, fizzy drinks, and I really like that this park-hang-friendly piquette is made using leftover grapes from winemaking. Flavored with raspberry, lemon, and anise and with a cool 5% ABV, it’s a refreshing…

IN LATE 2017 three Willamette Valley wine professionals—Jesús Guillén, Sofia Torres McKay, and Miguel Lopez—began dreaming up a continuing education program for Latino vineyard workers. Guillén had moved from Chihuahua, Mexico, to Oregon in 2002 and fallen in love with the lush wine-growing region. Even though he was a trained computer engineer, Guillén started picking grapes at White Rose Estate, where his father was the vineyard manager, and soon got the winemaking bug. He went to tastings, read up on the craft, and began assisting in the White Rose cellar. Realizing Guillén had a sharp palate, owner Greg Sanders made him assistant winemaker, cellarmaster, and then, in 2008, head winemaker. Three of Guillén’s first vintages earned more than 90 points from The Wine Advocate, classifying them as “outstanding.” Guillén’s ascent…

Between food service, home cooking, and farming, the United States wastes 108 billion pounds of food each year. Ismail Samad wants to change that. “In restaurants you’re never letting anything go to waste,” says the East Cleveland–based chef, activist, and entrepreneur. Using an ingredient in its entirety is economical—and part of the art of cooking, he says. In 2013 Samad co-opened The Gleanery, a restaurant in Putney, Vermont, that prioritizes less-than-perfect and surplus produce. There he learned to push ingredients to their limits, keeping as much as possible on the plate and out of the landfill. As cofounder of the nonprofit Loiter, he now consults on zero-waste strategies and other projects. Samad thinks reducing food waste is the single most approachable way to make our home kitchens more sustainable. “All…

CHEF JAY HUANG will never forget the day he took unagi off the menu at Lucky Robot Japanese Kitchen in Austin. “Several customers lashed out at us. They told me they’d never eat here again,” he says. “But it was a step we had to take.” Huang had been searching for ways to source his sushi fish more sustainably instead of relying on whatever his large restaurant supplier imported. But unlike organic, the term sustainable has an elusiveness that prompts a dizzying number of questions, notably when it comes to seafood: Is the fish wild-caught or farmed? Does it come from nearby or oceans away? Is it even the same species the menu says it is? Through careful questioning, Huang was able to find better alternatives for some species, but…