Indholdsfortegnelse for September 2023 i Bon Appetit

Q: I was particularly drawn to this month’s beautiful story about wild Alaskan salmon, “Flavors of the Wild,” page 48. I’ve always wanted to travel to the 49th state—and salmon is always a crowd-pleaser. One detail in the story that caught my attention was that Claire Neaton, one of the Salmon Sisters, is quoted as saying that frozen fish is actually the freshest kind you can buy. I’d love for you to expand! Food director Chris Morocco says: Seafood is a very nuanced category of food products and in a lot of ways defies generalizations like these—there are just so many different sourcing and processing methods to take into account. Labels like “fresh” and “frozen” don’t always tell the full story. Much of the seafood that gets sold as fresh…

“An often had I heard apple a day keeps the doctor away.” How those words as a child, usually after school when I was begging for a Popsicle? Not that I had anything against fresh fruit, I just preferred nearly any other kind—cherries, peaches, plums. Even though I admired the rich crimson contours of a Red Delicious, the resounding crack! of that first bite, something was off. After eating one I’d feel slightly out of sorts, a vague unease. That didn’t stop me from devouring one of my mother’s signature desserts: Apple Brown Betty. In our family kitchen in Akron, Ohio, I was permitted to watch but not touch since the household budget was tight and ingredients were too precious to allow for mistakes. In this laboratory of hissing pressure…

CHICKEN CUTLETS WITH BURST-TOMATO SAUCE Jammy and fragrant with garlic and ginger, this versatile savory compote is a brilliant way to use up a surplus of cherry tomatoes. You’ll find yourself spooning any leftovers on everything from pork chops to your favorite grain 4 SERVINGS ¼ cup plus 6 Tbsp. (or more) extra-virgin olive oil, divided2 tsp. fennel seeds2 tsp. mustard seeds¼ cup all-purpose flour4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, patted dryKosher salt, freshly ground pepper1½ lb. cherry tomatoes3 garlic cloves, finely grated1 2"-piece ginger, peeled, finely grated1 Tbsp. red wine vinegarCilantro leaves with tender stems (for serving) 1. Heat ¼ cup oil in a small saucepan over medium-high. Add fennel seeds and mustard seeds; cook, swirling pan, until fragrant and oil around seeds is sizzling, about 1 minute. Transfer spiced…

When it comes to faucets, Tupker opts for British throwbacks—no touchless sensor, no pull-down nozzle. Her go-tos are Barber Wilsons’ classic bridge versions. barberwilsons.com Tupker’s weakness? A beautiful wood plate rack. “I can’t resist,” she professes of Cosmo Fry’s unique architecturally inspired designs from Cutter Brooks. cutterbrooks.com A linear Ann-Morris pot rack over the stove keeps cooking tools accessible. Although, she says, “I tend to not like one in the middle of a room where it blocks the view.” annmorrislighting.com…

START WITH A RINSE Washing rice removes starch, preventing mushiness and resulting in fluffier cooked grains. To rinse: Put your rice in a bowl and cover it with cool water. Stir until the water gets cloudy. Drain the water. Repeat until the water remains clear. MEASURE IT OUT For a perfect pilaf, 1 cup of long-grain white rice, like jasmine or basmati, to 1½ cups of water is exactly right for stovetop cooking. Now is not the time to eyeball it; just measure and enjoy your tender rice and peace of mind. USE THE RIGHT POT Rice will just about triple in size as it cooks, so it needs enough space to expand in order to cook properly. A too-small pot will result in over- or undercooked rice every time.…

You could be forgiven for losing steam after making noodles from scratch. When you’re not in the mood to whip up a whole other recipe, here’s a sauce that comes together in two minutes flat, with no prep and just one measuring spoon. And it’s equally delicious topping homemade sujebi as it is stirred into instant ramen. TWO-MINUTE ANY NOODLE SAUCE Stir 2 Tbsp. soy sauce, 2 Tbsp. tahini, 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, and 1 Tbsp. pure maple syrup in a medium bowl to combine. Add sambal oelek to taste. Cook 6–8 oz. fresh or dried noodles of choice in a large pot of boiling water until tender. Drain noodles and transfer to bowl with sauce; toss until noodles are evenly coated.  2–4 servings MIX IT UP… Instead of…

Zooey Deschanel has more than Hollywood on her mind. The actress and former cabaret singer is so invested in food equity and access that she and her partners are creating apps, home hydroponic systems, and more to broaden access to good food. “People make better, healthier, more joyful decisions about food when they’re more informed,” she says. But she’s never too busy to have dinner parties. Here’s who she’s hosting. You get to entertain whomever you want, real or fictional, alive or dead. Who would it be? Truman Capote, because we know from his writing what a great storyteller he was. Louis Armstrong—one of my favorite singers. He’s an incredible musician and seems like someone who would have such a joyful presence. Audrey Hepburn—I’ve always wanted to meet her. And…

6–8 SERVINGS A Brown Betty—crisp crumb topping over luscious baked fruit—is the move when you find yourself with a surplus of summer fruit and a few slices of sandwich bread about to go stale. 2 lb. ripe stone fruit (such as peaches, plums, and/or nectarines),sliced ¼"–½" thick 2 Tbsp. cornstarch or potato starch2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice⅓ cup (67 g; or more) plus¼ cup (50 g) sugar½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more5 slices white sandwich bread½ tsp. ground cardamom½ tsp. ground cinnamon5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted Preheat oven to 350°. Taste fruit for sweetness, then toss with cornstarch, lemon zest, lemon juice, ⅓ cup (67 g) sugar (or up to ½ cup/100 g if fruit is on the tart side),…

BEEF AND WHITE BEAN STEW WITH CUMIN 6 SERVINGS Libyan Jews are relative newcomers to Rome, migrating in the late 1960s, but they’ve already had a strong influence on Roman Jewish cooking. Their many contributions include meat-and-legume stews such as this one-pot holiday-ready dish of tender beef and creamy white beans in a velvety tomato sauce. 3 lb. boneless beef chuck roast, excess fat trimmed, cut into2" pieces1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more2 Tbsp. (or more) extra-virgin olive oil1 large onion, finely chopped5 garlic cloves, finely chopped1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp.Hungarian hot paprika or ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes2 tsp. ground cuminFreshly ground pepper3 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste2 15-oz. cans cannellini (white kidney) beans, rinsed1 cup tomato puréeSteamed couscous and finely chopped parsley…

Claire Neaton and Emma Teal Laukitis have been fishing for wild Alaskan salmon since before they were born. That’s thanks to their parents, who raised them on a remote homestead in the Aleutian Islands, where they also ran a small family fishing operation. The sisters, born 13 months apart, have never missed a salmon season, despite attending college on the East Coast, having children, and building their company, Salmon Sisters. “Growing up the way we did, it’s impossible not to have a strong connection to the seasons,” Neaton says. Now 33 and 32, respectively, Neaton and Laukitis have ordered their lives and their business around Alaska’s wild salmon harvest. They started Salmon Sisters when they were both in college in New England, first selling apparel for women in the fishing…

FASHION A BEVERAGE BAR Designate a side table for booze and appoint a friend the Duke of Drinks, in charge of directing guests to the bevvies (for your own sanity, do not do this yourself). Forgo the shaken cocktails and instead set out a pre-batched jug of something low in alcohol that simply needs to be poured over ice. SET IT AND FORGET IT, FOR NOW Now is not the time for stressing over silver dollar pancakes that keep you hovered over the stove. Select dishes that can be made ahead and kept on your counter (like muffins) or don’t mind hanging out for a while in your fridge (like a sturdy salad). DRAMATIZE ONE SPECIAL DISH Your friends chose to come over when they could have been lying in…

If you’ve ever grated a pound of potatoes—say, for latkes—and soaked them in water until you’re ready to fry, you may have noticed white stuff collecting at the bottom of the bowl. That, friends, is potato starch, the same kind you can buy in the baking aisle. Kneaded with water and oil, it transforms into bouncy, nearly translucent noodles. But it can also be swapped 1:1 for cornstarch in almost any recipe. Try it in a dry dredge to give fried chicken a crispy shell, or add it to doughs or batters for snappier cookies and more tender baked goods.…

Embrace the Past No matter the kitchen, Virginia Tupker lets history be her guide. “I’ve always found inspiration in historic English country houses,” the designer reflects, confessing her love for upstairs-downstairs period dramas. How can you capture that timeless spirit? First things first: Camouflage the present. Tupker conceals modern appliances behind panels, stowing smaller ones in deep drawers or—in the case of the microwave or coffee station—cabinets that sit on countertops like a hutch. Outlets are blended with the walls. (She uses Bocci’s 22 System.) And recessed lighting is avoided. At times, of course, these overhead eyesores are a necessary concession. To make them discreet, Tupker goes with the smallest rimless fixtures available, as shown—and appropriately barely visible—in this Connecticut house. Mix It Up “Kitchens tend to be the gathering…

Flake and See Wild salmon can dry out faster than the fatty farmed stuff. Aim for medium-rare: Your fish is done when it starts to flake under a fork or spatula and is slightly translucent at the center. Freeze to Please When it comes to wild salmon, buy frozen unless it’s in season (May–Oct.). The “fresh” stuff has usually been frozen and thawed before sale. Aim to eat it within a year. Stay Low No matter the method, it’s generally best to keep temps low to prevent overcooking. Back off the heat if you see white bubbles on the surface of your fish, a sign it is cooking too quickly. Skip the Thaw No time to thaw? Fillets can be cooked directly from the freezer. Just rinse under cold water…

Steamy, fluffy rice is the ultimate dinnertime staple. It’s the ideal vehicle for brothy braises, juicy roast chicken, and flaky grilled fish. But rice isn’t just a sidekick for bold, flavorful proteins and veggies; it can pack a punch all on its own. Dive into chef JJ Johnson’s cookbook The Simple Art of Rice and you’ll find a 352-page love letter to the grain, featuring recipes for everything from crispy Persian tahdig to his grand-father Poppy William’s red beans and rice. You’ll also find these savory rice pilafs, which were inspired by Johnson’s own overflowing spice cabinet and his strong desire to help folks ditch pricey and over-salted boxed rice blends. Each recipe calls for a short list of spices, dried herbs, and aromatics that add just enough flair to…

Resting wheat dough allows its gluten network to form, then relax, resulting in a flexible, bouncy texture that’s easy to shape. So how do you know when your dough is well-rested? The Goldilocks window is between 15 to 30 minutes, which is enough time for everything to settle before sour or fermented flavors start to develop. Forgot to set a timer? When your dough is just kneaded, it can be bumpy and lumpy. After resting, it’ll shape-shift into a smooth, elastic ball, ready for action.…

KITCHEN SHEARS Joyce Chen Unlimited Scissors, from $20; amazon.com Small, strong, and precise, these Joyce Chen scissors are a cult favorite among food stylists and have been popular among BA staffers for years. Don’t let their teeny size—just 6.5 inches long—fool you. They’re the best scissors for getting up close and personal with your food—think snipping your Scissor-Cut Noodles (Jian Dao Mian), p. 80, into shape. While the blades are small, the handles are roomy and can accommodate nearly any grip (for right- or left-handers), making these shears comfortable to hold and easy to maneuver. —Tiffany Hopkins DIGITAL SCALE Escali Primo Digital Scale, from $25; amazon.com Noodle doughs are simple and depend on precise ratios of flour to water. Using a scale to easily and accurately weigh those ingredients is…