Roasted squash feels like a quintessentially autumnal side and, in keeping with the mood of the season, can feel a bit sleepy. But with fresh ginger and chile, this platter of glossy miso-glazed mixed squash is bright and alive, a riot of textures and flavors. The frizzled-scallion topping—a nod to Cantonese steamed fish, which often arrives at the table covered with great tufts of the stuff—suffuses the whole dish with a complex oniony perfume. Even on a table full of the holiday’s greatest hits, this is a certified crowd-pleaser. —Shilpa Uskokovic
½ medium butternut squash (1½–2 lb.), peeled, seeds removed, cut crosswise2" thick1 medium acorn squash (about 1½ lb.), scrubbed, halved, seeds removed, cut into 2"-thick wedges1 small delicata squash (about 1 lb.), scrubbed, cut into 2"-thick rings½ cup extra-virgin…
