ABBAS ALIZADEH STEPPED OFF THE PLANE IN TEHRAN EXHAUSTED AND A BIT ANXIOUS. HE HAD BEEN TRAVELING FOR 19 HOURS, FLYING FIRST FROM O’HARE TO DOHA, QATAR, THEN ON TO IRAN. IT WAS MAY 2021, AND THE UNIVERSITY OF CHICAGO PROFESSOR, ONE OF THE WORLD’S FOREMOST EXPERTS ON PREHISTORIC AND ANCIENT IRANIAN ARCHAEOLOGY, WAS THERE TO STUDY A COLLECTION OF POTSHERDS—FRAGMENTS OF CLAY VESSELS—HOPING THAT THEY MIGHT OFFER INSIGHTS ABOUT EARLY APPRENTICE POTTERS.
At Imam Khomeini International Airport, named after the late leader of the country’s theocratic government, armed guards and customs officials are ready to detain anyone suspected of bringing illicit items into the country — alcohol, women’s or pornographic magazines, pork—or bearing a visa stamp from Iran’s perennial enemy, Israel.
Alizadeh, then 70, was, in fact, carrying contraband:…