Indholdsfortegnelse for November 2024 i Chicago magazine

MY YOUNGER SON AND NAMESAKE, TERRANCE, TURNS 21 NEXT summer, and I’m already thinking about where to take him for his first drink. But in putting together this issue of Chicago, I realized there was another rite of passage, a distinctly local one, he hadn’t yet completed. So one evening in late September, I drove him to Johnnie’s Beef in Elmwood Park, five minutes from our house. I urged him to go with Peter Sagal’s recommended order (page 61): wet, sweet and hot. He agreed, which surprised me. After all, this is a young man who eats his hot dogs not just sans ketchup, like any true Chicagoan, but entirely condiment-free. At one of the metal tables outside, under the fluorescent lights, he bit into his first Italian beef. He…

The expression that has come to symbolize Chicago’s once-insular machine politics dates back to 1948, when an idealistic University of Chicago law student named Abner Mikva decided to get involved in his community. Mikva walked into his neighborhood ward office to volunteer for the campaigns of Adlai Stevenson, who was running for governor, and Paul Douglas, a candidate for senator. “Who sent you?” asked the committeeman, Timothy O’Sullivan, removing the cigar from his mouth. “Nobody,” Mikva replied. “We don’t want nobody nobody sent,” the committeeman said. Then he added, “We ain’t got no jobs.” “I don’t want a job,” Mikva said. “We don’t want nobody that don’t want a job. Where are you from, anyway?” “University of Chicago.” “We don’t want nobody from the University of Chicago.” Mikva eventually became…

FOR PHOTOGRAPHER MARK Ballogg, a visit to the studio of the octogenarian sculptor Richard Hunt turned into a six-year-long exploration. Hunt, who died last December, was one of Chicago’s best-known artists thanks to his distinctive abstract metal sculptures that found public homes in cities around the globe. “I was just absolutely mesmerized,” Ballogg says of that 2017 peek inside Hunt’s Lincoln Park workshop, filled with stacks of scrap metal in various stages of transformation. “And I thought, If I could go into other artists’ studios, I could really represent Chicago’s artist community.” That impulse eventually took the shape of Making Space, Ballogg’s 2023 self-published photo book featuring 93 studios and quotes from many of the artists about how they approach their work. The book is now the basis of a…

FOR MORE THAN TWO YEARS, Jake Potashnick has documented his thoughts on food on the popular TikTok account @notyetachef, where his perspective has been that of a hardworking cook hungry for knowledge. More than 85,000 followers have joined him in restaurant kitchens, on dining travels from San Sebastián to Zanzibar, and in his home, where he shows off his toys — like a Pacojet that can slice an ice block so finely it becomes ice cream. Whatever the subject, Potashnick is direct, friendly, and more than a little cocky; he never hesitates to spout off with an opinion. His pithy videos have delved into topics as diverse as Thomas Keller’s famous Oysters and Pearls dish or why a minor character on The Bear was based on Charlie Trotter. He has…

FOR THE HOLIDAY HOST WITH A million to-dos on their list, here’s a back-pocket recipe from sister restaurants Le Bouchon and Obélix: a quiche that’s grand enough to make out-of-town houseguests feel special, thanks to a velvety custard enriched with Délice de Bourgogne cheese, but demands very little from the baker except a bit of foresight. Make it, chill it, and over the next day or two warm up individual slices as needed, whether for an on-the-fly brunch or a late-night snack to cap off festivities that last into the wee hours. OBÉLIX AND LE BOUCHON’S DÉLICE DE BOURGOGNE QUICHE Makes 1 quiche Active time 10 minutes Total time 13 hours 1½ cups heavy cream ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. whole milk 4 large eggs 1½ tsp. kosher salt ½…

1 Jay Leno Wolfs Down Mr. Beef on Late Night The sandwich debuted on the national stage in 1989, when Jay Leno appeared as a guest on Late Night With David Letterman. The show was shooting in Chicago that week, and to celebrate/terrorize the host, Leno brought a bulging bag from Mr. Beef to the couch. He proceeded to chow down on beef after beef through 20 minutes of banter with the host. 2 Kobayashi Eats Five Al’s Italian Beefs in 95 Seconds From the POV of any sandwich, perhaps the highest honor you could receive is to be hastily slammed by Takeru Kobayashi. The competitive eater, who won six Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Contests, housed five Italian beefs atop the Tribune Tower in 95 seconds in 2012. That was…

■ Ever since Sheila Rashid made her first overalls in 2016, the self-taught designer has gotten attention for her denim-centric streetwear. Now she’s making a play for a new vibe: country club chic. “I’ve always loved tennis and the whole culture surrounding it,” the Little Village resident says. Her SR Open collection features an assortment of polos, button-up crop tops, pleated skirts, suit jackets, and tees — with Rashid’s twists, like leaving a skirt edge rough-hewn and emblazoning a photo of Serena Williams on a hoodie. Tennis season may be over, but the collection is winter ready: “Everything is meant to be layered.” sheilarashid.com…

IF THE NAME OF OUR NEW PHOTO DIRECtor, Jaclyn Rivas, sounds familiar, it may be because you’ve seen it in our pages. As a contributor to the magazine, she most recently shot images for “The 50 Best Restaurants” in the August issue. Though she’s been a professional photographer for more than a decade and was photo editor at Time Out Chicago, her love of the art form took time to develop. A lifelong resident of Pilsen whose family has roots in Mexico, she enrolled in a photography course her second year of community college — and initially hated it. But her first big class assignment changed that: “I saw my photos and was like, Oh my God, this is what I should be doing.” She went on to get her…

1 There are no state-wide offices up for election this year, but the Nov. 5 ballot does have a non-binding referendum on whether Illinois insurance plans that cover pregnancy should also cover fertility treatments. 2 Is Bob Fioretti the bad penny of Chicago politics? After being drawn out of his City Council seat and losing races for mayor and Cook County Board president, he turned Republican to run for Cook County state’s attorney. 3 Hey, snowbirds! On Nov. 10, Amtrak launches the Floridian, a direct train from Chicago to Miami. Enjoy it while it lasts. The line is temporary, combining two others during Amtrak’s three-year rehab of its East River tunnels in New York City. 4 The Illinois legislature assembles for its veto session Nov. 12. Likely to be addressed:…

AFTER CHICAGO Public Media bought the Sun-Times in early 2022 and merged it with National Public Radio affiliate WBEZ, the future looked bright for what had become the largest nonprofit local newsroom in the country. But since then, things have turned stormy. This year has seen layoffs, deep cuts to WBEZ’s vaunted podcast unit, and the discontinuation of the urban alternative station Vocalo. And while the Sun-Times says it has grown its digital audience, WBEZ’s ratings have sunk from No. 2 in the market three years ago to No. 17 today. Trying to right the ship is Melissa Bell, who took over as CEO in September. The digital media vet, who cofounded the explanatory journalism website Vox and was publisher of New York–based Vox Media until 2023, still sees promise…

> THE BEETLE BAR AND GRILL “A late-night venue that’s vintage-y, with nice decorations and a pool table. They have a big menu and a great cocktail list. I love the blueberry aviation.” 2532 W. Chicago Ave. > FLYING SAUCER “I have breakfast there with friends. I get the corned beef hash skillet. My husband loves the vegan breakfast burrito. Very sassy service — that’s one of my favorite things about it.” 1123 N. California Ave. > KOMODA “It’s this lovely little gift shop, woman owned, with all kinds of neat knickknacks, candles, gadgets, cards, and whatnot. It’s a go-to spot for people if a party or birthday is coming up.” 2448 W. Chicago Ave. > HUMBOLDT PARK LAGOON “I love walking around, seeing the beautiful willow trees, and just…

1 PEAK ARTISTRY The new exhibition Reimagine: Himalayan Art Now at Wrightwood 659 presents contemporary works by more than two wd dozen artists from Tibet, Nepal, and other countries in South Asia. Nov. 8–Feb. 15. wrightwood659.org 2 SHADES OF GAY With its two acts originally written nearly a decade apart, in 1981 and 1990, William Finn’s quirky queer musical Falsettos provides a kind of real-time portrait of the early AIDS crisis. Nov. 8–Dec. 8. courttheatre.org 3 PAINT BY THE NUMBERS Is painting a dying art form? The MCA exhibition The Living End: Painting and Other Technologies, 1970–2020 argues that it has simply evolved to incorporate new methods and media. Nov. 9–Mar. 23. mcachicago.org 4 BLADE RAPPER Touring behind his ninth studio album, this summer’s Samurai, West Side icon Lupe Fiasco makes…

Revolution Brewing DOUBLE BARREL V.S.O.R. RYEWINE Start lining up now for the first canned release of this flavor bomb of a rye wine that’s blended from beers aged in bourbon and rye barrels. 2323 N. Milwaukee Ave., Logan Square; 3340 N. Kedzie Ave., Avondale Is/Was Brewing TREE TIPPER SAISON The latest from Mike Schallau’s saison-focused brewery pulls in autumnal flavors: It’s made with spruce tips steeped in local honey, which allows fruity and floral notes to emerge. 5121 N. Ravenswood Ave., Ravenswood Hop Butcher for the World ANNIVERSARY BLEND 2024 The brewery is marking the second anniversary of its takeover of Half Acre’s Lincoln Avenue space with a barrel-aged stout. “We pull four or five barrels from our barre-laging stash, get a blend together, and make a big to-do out…

1 PARACHUTE HIFI What A revamp of Parachute combines casual Korean American plates with DJ sets. Why Dishes will change regularly, but note: On Wednesdays there will be bing bread! Where 3500 N. Elston Ave., Avondale 2 VOID What An Italian American bar and restaurant from a trio of industry vets Why Feel like a kid again with a tasty update to SpaghettiOs. Where 2937 N. Milwaukee Ave., Logan Square 3 MIRRA What Indian-Mexican fusion grown out of Wazwan Why We’re talking things like lamb barbacoa biryani. Where 1954 W. Armitage Ave., Bucktown 4 CASA HUMILDE CERVECERIA ARTESANAL What Mexican American beers from a sibling duo Why Their new taproom means space to try corn lagers and hazy pineapple IPAs. Where 7700 Madison St., Forest Park 5 BAR PARISETTE What A fresh take on…

1 Johnnie’s Beef There’s a reason you’ll find a line snaking around the building: Customers want to get their hands on the freshest beef dipped in the most savory jus and topped with the crispest, spiciest giardiniera in town. $6.72. 7500 W. North Ave., Elmwood Park 2 Al’s #1 Italian Beef It’s easily identifiable from the meat’s nearly shredded consistency, the chopped giardiniera, and the bright red jus. The taste is distinct, too (the exact spices are a family secret, but I get hints of clove and allspice). It’s the best Italian beef within city limits, but you must go to the original on Taylor Street to eat it at its peak. $9.25. 1079 W. Taylor St., Little Italy 3 Jay’s Beef What started as a trailer has evolved into…

86 The age of the recipe at Al’s #1 Italian Beef, the oldest beef stand in Chicago 60 Possible combinations of orders at Al’s with choices of dry, wet, or dipped; sweet peppers, hot peppers, both, or none; and cheddar, provolone, American, cheese sauce, or no cheese 1962 The year the Chicago Daily Tribune published its first Italian beef recipe. The recipe is credited to Mary Meade, a pen name used by five female food editors at the paper. 198 The combined years of experience of the eight regular employees at Mr. Beef 33 The age at which Edwin “Eddie” Boksa Jr. took over Odge’s, his family’s longtime West Town burger, beef, and hot dog stand in 2014. Boksa, who might just be the real-life inspiration for Carmy from The…

RETAIL IS MY THING,” SAYS Michelle Kohanzo. It’s both her passion (she’s a self-described clotheshorse) and her vocation. The UIC alum studied English lit but swerved into retail after graduating, spending 18 years working her way to the top of children’s goods maker the Land of Nod, now Crate & Kids. A year ago, the Barrington resident joined the Tie Bar as president. A tastemaker, Kohanzo brings her eye for design to the Chicago-based men’s accessories brand. She’s a textile queen, even beyond apparel. “I have an affinity for decorating, particularly upholstery,” she says. “I could buy upholstered chairs all day long.” JAYSON HOME 1885 N. Clybourn Ave., Lincoln Park “It’s always a treasure hunt in there.” WISH LIST • Bastille chair (1) “Can you imagine having this chair in…

■ I worked downtown at CNA Insurance for a guy who was not a nice character. It was October, and I was looking down at Grant Park. The trees are dead. I’m dead. I’m listening to him. My lips are saying, “Oh yeah, great idea,” and the balloon over my head is saying, “You unspeakable, unprintable turkey bird.” And my character, V.I. [Warshawski], came to me then. V.I. says what’s in that thought balloon, because she doesn’t care if she’s fired or what people think. ■ Philip Marlowe made me want to create a woman detective. In six of Raymond Chandler’s seven books, it’s a woman who presents herself sexually, who’s behind every wicked thing that happens. And I thought, I’m gonna turn the tables. ■ When I worked for…

JIM KELLY REMEMBERS HOW HIS 91-YEAR-OLD FATHER DIED: ALONE IN A NURSING home bathroom after a long, agonizing battle with prostate cancer. Kelly, a 77-year-old Oak Park retiree, is now dealing with the same disease himself. While his cancer is under control at the moment, if it worsens, if he’s given a terminal diagnosis and his pain can’t be relieved, he hopes Illinois lawmakers will let him choose another path. “I can’t think of any better way to die than at home surrounded by our wonderful friends and neighbors.” If a pending Illinois Senate bill is enacted, Kelly could drink a lethal drug cocktail prescribed by doctors to allow patients to die quickly, painlessly, at a time of their own choosing, as terminally ill patients in 10 states and Washington,…

■ Think you have a choice this month of who to send to Springfield? You may not. Of the 24 Illinois Senate seats up for grabs, 11 are uncontested races (seven for Democratic candidates; four, Republican). And of the 118 House races, the total is 59 (35 Dems, 24 Republicans). Not surprisingly, the Democrat-only contests are largely in the Chicago area, while the Republican ones are downstate. Illinois once had an electoral system designed to prevent such regional division. Until 1982, every district sent a senator and three reps to Springfield. That ended with the Cutback Amendment, which reduced the size of the House from 177 to 118. It also quashed competition in the state’s most partisan sections. It could have been worse. Governor JB Pritzker signed a law in…

THESPIAN MATT MUELLER keeps active in multiple ways, but only one gets his spirit pumping along with his heart. “I love bikes so much,” says the year-round cyclist, who owns five. “It’s one of my great joys.” He currently spends much of his indoor time playing grown-up Ron Weasley in Harry Potter and the Cursed Child, running at the Nederlander Theatre through February 1—a 170-minute marathon of a play. Mueller’s well suited for a show about magic and families: The Evanston native’s parents are both actors, as are all three of his siblings, most of whom have Broadway credits. Quips Mueller: “I don’t think we qualify as ‘Muggle’ in any way, shape, or form.” HIGH-INTENSITY HOGWARTS TRAINING “The show is very physical, so everybody’s got to be in peak form.…

LAWRENCE LETRERO AND Raquel Quadreny have always pushed the envelope with their Ravenswood restaurant, Bayan Ko. When they opened it in 2018, they found the intersection points of Filipino and Cuban cuisines and turned those into a wholly original fusion. Their latest radical moves? Transforming the restaurant (1810 W. Montrose Ave.) into a five-course tasting menu spot and opening a casual all-day diner a few doors down (1820 W. Montrose Ave.). Letrero had long considered executing a tasting menu, even before launching Bayan Ko. “But I looked at the neighborhood and didn’t want to put that pressure on myself,” he says. He and Quadreny stuck with à la carte until this spring. That’s when a new opportunity presented itself: taking over the location that once housed Glenn’s Diner, which closed…

MY DECADES-LONG FRIENDSHIP WITH BILL ZEHME began as a professional partnership. In the fall of 1995, after discovering that the renowned profile writer had moved back to Chicago from Los Angeles, I found his address, wrote him a letter, and mailed it with some of my very best (in retrospect, very amateurish) freelance clips. I’d been reading his work since high school, in Rolling Stone and then Esquire, and I asked if he’d meet with me to impart his writerly wisdom. To my surprise and delight, he agreed. Not long after we linked up and hit it off, I began helping him streamline and organize transcripts for a memoir he was working on with Jay Leno. Eventually, that morphed into a gig as Bill’s first-ever research assistant — “legman” in…

Italian Beef Bao BiXi Beer Slagel Farms beef is braised, then dipped into jus made with roasted bone broth, onions, and Sichuan chiles. It’s topped with fermented giardiniera featuring Sichuan chiles and peanut oil. Fusion at its finest. Logan Square Italian Beef and Giardiniera Pizza Vito & Nick’s Pizzeria Shaved beef mingles with melted cheese and marinara, while hot peppers add extra crunch to the crispy thin crust. Ashburn Italian Beef Egg Roll The Egg Roll Factory Chopped beef is loaded into a flour wrapper with giardiniera, mozzarella, and American cheese before a trip to the deep fryer. The result is an oozy, spicy, beefy flavor bomb. Humboldt Park Italian Beef Tamale Santa Masa Tamaleria For this secret menu item, Danny Espinoza and Jhoana Ruiz mix roasted top round into…

We’re all going to die. On this front, there’s been little progress. But when? And how? And in what kind of physical condition will we spend our final years? ¶ These are the thoughts running through my head as I ride the elevator to the 21st floor of the Lavin building on Northwestern Medicine’s Streeterville campus. I enter the elegant but sterile waiting room of the Potocsnak Longevity Institute, where I am to undergo a series of tests to measure my “biological age,” a favorite term of longevity experts. It’s a gauge of the wear and tear our lives have wreaked on our bodies at a molecular and cellular level. After a few minutes, a research assistant comes out to lead me to an exam room in back. There, I’ll…