It’s the land of the sawn-off keel, the sawn-off bowsprit and the sawn-off shotgun. The keel because the creeks are shallow, the bowsprit because they are narrow and the gun because many longshore folk in Essex have drifted east from Bethnal Green, Bow and Bermondsey, where old habits die hard.
Coastal Essex is marked culturally by violation, historically by sea and, in more recent times, by land. From the sea, ‘the invasion coast’, as Essex was once dubbed, with the ships of Romans, Saxons and Danes turning up with conquest in mind. Boudicca torched the Roman fort at the head of the River Colne at Colchester, Vikings beheaded the Saxon leader, Brythnoth, on the River Blackwater, while flayed Danes suffered at the hands of a new cult, the Christians who,…