Indholdsfortegnelse for November/December 2021 i Cook's Illustrated

My sister and I grabbed a flimsy saucepan from the rental cottage kitchen, hustled across the sandy street to the beach, and made a beeline for the tide pools. We raked handfuls of periwinkles into the pan, topped them off with fresh ocean water, and rushed back up the beach to the cottage. Periwinkles, a type of small snail, are ubiquitous along Maine’s rocky coast, where they anchor themselves near the shoreline. My sister and I would normally ignore them in favor of poking and prodding more interesting sea life—green crabs lurking in rockweed, young lobsters no bigger than cigarette lighters, and hat-like limpets cemented to the rocks—but our dad had told us all about how our grandfather had loved to eat the little periwinkles. We were eager to taste…

ROASTED OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL WITH MUSTARD BUTTER SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 55 MINUTES You’ll need an oyster knife and a large serving platter for this recipe. Using oysters that are 2½ to 3 inches long ensures that they will cook evenly. Placing the oysters on crumpled foil prevents them from tipping. 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley, divided1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard24 oysters, 2½ to 3 inches long, well scrubbedLemon wedges 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Stir butter, 2 tablespoons parsley, and mustard in bowl until well combined. Gently crumple and uncrumple two 24-inch lengths of aluminum foil. Place 1 piece in 18 by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet and second piece on large serving platter; cover…

An oyster’s environment greatly impacts its flavor and appearance—but there are some inherent traits that distinguish the five species commercially cultivated in North America. EASTERN oysters, found along the coast from New England to the Gulf of Mexico, taste clean and briny. Hardy, they thrive in chilly, muddy waters, a sight that shocked the European settlers who first encountered them at Chesapeake Bay. At the time, Europeans were accustomed to the more delicate EUROPEAN FLAT, a shallow-shelled species native to its eponymous continent. Because European flats (also called Belons) contain high amounts of iodine and trace metals, they have a strong coppery flavor that some find off-putting; Pliny the Elder, however, was a fan, calling them “a most exquisite dish.” Those intrigued but intimidated by that species’ flavor should turn…

A Cleaner Way to Bottle Used Frying Oil Returning cooled frying oil to its original bottle makes for easy storage or disposal, but the process can get messy. Alex Barunas of Boston, Mass., has found that a funnel and a toothpick make an efficient system: He simply slides the toothpick between the rim of the bottle and the funnel. This creates a gap that provides extra airflow, allowing the oil to flow through the funnel more quickly and smoothly. Stockpile Bread for Stuffing In the months leading up to the holidays, Mary Cusack of Bloomington, Ind., cubes up all her household’s left-over heels of bread and slightly stale rolls, places them in a zipper-lock bag, and freezes them. That way, when it comes time to make her Thanksgiving stuffing, she…

“More than any other food, oysters taste like the place they come from.”–Rowan Jacobsen, author and oyster expert STUNNINGLY DIVERSE Like wine grapes, each oyster possesses certain inherent shape and flavor characteristics as well as innumerable delightful nuances determined by exactly where and how it’s been farmed. Even bivalves of the same species raised in neighboring bays can look and taste distinctly different. ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY Everything oysters need to grow occurs naturally in their habitat, which sets them apart from other seafood cultivated via aquaculture. Plus, oysters are filter feeders that strain out excess nitrogen and micro-particles as they pump water through their bodies, purifying the habitat for marine life around them. SAFE TO EAT Nearly 98 percent of oysters we eat come from aquaculture, an industry that’s scrupulously regulated by federal and…

Leeks need a new PR campaign, and I might be just the person for the job. The sweetest, gentlest allium is best known to American audiences as a soup ingredient—but its quiet character also permits it to play a leading role without being overpowering. Case in point: France’s leeks vinaigrette, which is simply silky leeks overlaid with a veil of mustardy dressing. Mellow yet piquant, leeks vinaigrette can accompany chicken or fish, but the dish also works well as a main course with some additions, accompanied by a hunk of bread and a glass of wine. It comes together quickly: Trim and wash the leeks, simmer or steam them until they’re softened, and drizzle them with vinaigrette. Eat them warm or let them sit for hours; they’ll only get tastier…

“Gaman” is a Japanese term of Buddhist origin that means enduring difficult circumstances with patience, perseverance, and dignity. In fact, gaman is considered to be one of the forces that sustained Japan’s recovery from the devastating 2011 earthquake and tsunami. The concept touches almost every aspect of Japanese culture: Preschoolers are introduced to it when they learn to share and take turns, and it seems unlikely that Tokyo’s Shinjuku train station, which serves 3.5 million passengers per day, could function without it. Gaman has a role in cooking as well. In our recipe, we practice gaman by leaving the chicken undisturbed in the hot skillet for several minutes, resisting the urge to peek at the underside of the meat until the edges of each piece turn solid white, an indication…

I’ve long been a plant-forward cook at home, but when I opened a café called the Farmer’s Hand in the Corktown neighborhood of Detroit in 2016, I brought that sensibility to my work as well. Determined to support the local farming community at every turn, I let the seasons dictate the menu and drew a loyal following of vegan and non-vegan diners alike who showed up for items such as quinoa burgers and avocado toast with beet hummus. The mousse was so light that it was like spooning up clouds of chocolate. So when Cook’s Illustrated approached me to develop a vegan chocolate mousse that anyone would love, it felt right in my wheelhouse, and I knew it would be a fun challenge. Dairy and eggs are core to the…

Struffoli’s Greek roots are well-documented. Not only did Hellenic sailors settle the port city that would eventually become Naples but also the Italian sweet bears an unmistakable resemblance to loukoumades, Greece’s spherical, honey-drenched fritters, and etymologically stems from the Greek word “stróngylos,” meaning “round.” It was cloistered nuns in southern Italian convents, however, that popularized and established it as a Neapolitan Christmas sweet. For centuries, convents all over the region (and other parts of the world) were confectionery hubs, where entrepreneurial nuns baked and sold intricate pastries such as cannoli, paper-thin layered sfogliatelle, and minni di virgini (domed, cherry-topped cakes said to resemble “virgins’ breasts”) as a way to support themselves, passing them to customers through the abbey’s grilled windows. Struffoli became a traditional Christmas gift that nuns bestowed upon…

If turkey breast is your holiday centerpiece this year, I’ve got a proposition for you: Trade the roasted turkey crown and brown gravy for the prettiest, most flavor-packed piece of white-meat poultry you’ve ever tasted. I’m talking about turkey porchetta, or turchetta, a preparation that takes its name, shape, and seasonings from the iconic Italian pork roast called porchetta. To make the pork version, home cooks usually slather a boneless loin with a garlicky herb and spice paste; wrap it with the fatty, skin-on belly; and roast the pork low and slow until the skin browns and crisps and the meat is ultratender. Borrowing the approach for turkey breast has become a popular way to deliver bold flavor and an impressive presentation with a typically mild-mannered roast, and it actually…

1. Fold dish towel several times into thin, tight roll. Grip towel in fist of hand that will be holding oyster, wrapping 1 end over your thumb and tucking it between your thumb and forefinger. 2. Using your towel-protected thumb, hold oyster in place with hinge facing away from thumb. Insert tip of oyster knife into hinge of oyster. 3. Work tip of knife into hinge using twisting motion. When shells begin to separate, twist knife to pop hinge. 4. Run knife along top shell, scraping abductor muscle from shell to release oyster. Slide knife under oyster to scrape abductor muscle from bottom shell.…

Years ago, when my family and I were living in Paris, we would spend our spring vacations in the French Alps. The skiing was magnificent, and so was the food. In fact, I’m still haunted (in the best way possible) by memories of tartiflette, the luscious gratin of tender potatoes, crisp-chewy poitrine fumée (smoked bacon), white wine, and cream, generously topped with nutty, milky Reblochon cheese. My sons and I would tuck into individual crocks, still bubbling from the heat of the oven and dolloped with tangy crème fraîche, for lunch most days at a slopeside restaurant in Courchevel. I would sip a cold, crisp Chablis, and the boys, chocolat chaud, as we took in the glittering Mont Blanc. A Promotional Provenance I always figured that this dish dated back…

Jellied cranberry sauce—indented by the ridges of the can from which it slithers—is my secret Thanksgiving love. It’s not the flavor that keeps drawing me back, since the overt, one-note sweetness dominates the fruity tang. I’m more captivated by its physical qualities: the alluring smoothness, the playful jiggle, and the way the semitranslucent ruby gel catches the light. This year I set out to create a DIY version with those attributes and more. I’d be in full control of the sugar, and the sky would be the limit in terms of flavoring and molding options. I started by adding a modest amount of granulated sugar along with a little salt to a saucepan filled with 12 ounces of fresh cranberries. I poured in 3 cups of water, simmered the mixture…

The discovery that an ethereal foam can be created by simply whipping the viscous liquid from a can of peas wasn’t made by a food scientist chick-or even a professional chef. Instead, credit goes to an American software engineer named Goose Wohlt. In 2015, inspired by the experiments other scrappy vegan home cooks had shared online, Wohlt successfully turned the whipped cooking water into meringue. He promptly dubbed bed the liquid faba” (“aqua” is Latin for “water”; “faba,” “aqua-“bean”) and began posting about its properties on Facebook. The magic is in the viscous liquid’s proteins and soluble fiber, which, when beaten, link together er to trap air bubbles and form a foam, just as egg whites do. Word spread like wildfire, and soon ans around the globe were using it…

THINNER LONG PASTAS such as spaghetti and capellini (aka angel hair) pair well with smooth, light pasta sauces such as marinara or pomodoro or oily, smooth sauces such as pesto. Large pieces of meat don’t cling very well to these pastas, but thinly sliced vegetables tend to get pleasantly tangled in their midst, making them great for springtime pastas with fresh, tender produce. LONG, FLAT NOODLES such as tagliatelle and pappardelle go well with dairy-thickened sauces or ragus such as Bolognese, which cling to and get trapped in the folds. Also try them with lighter sauces such as pesto or simply oil, herbs, and lemon, which deliciously coat the noodles. SMALL, NONEXTRUDED PASTAS such as farfalle, which are shaped like butterflies, or orecchiette, which are shaped like small cups or “little ears,” do…

Set Up a Veggie Prep Station To prep vegetables for a produce-heavy dish or meal, gathering and organizing your tools beforehand can make the task a lot more pleasant and efficient. –L.L. What is it? These days, electric waffle makers abound—but I love the old-school charm of a stovetop waffle maker. This 1940s cast-iron model from Norway is used to make one of the country’s signature breakfast treats. When opened, the griddle displays a design composed of five heart-shaped segments. The waffle can be served whole, in a 6-inch flower shape; or broken into individual 3-inch hearts for a more romantic presentation. Though the waffle maker weighs in at about 8 pounds, it’s simple to use. While I heated each side of the waffle maker on my gas stovetop, I…