The martini renaissance
JAMES BOND’S favourite cocktail (vermouth with gin or vodka, in his case shaken and with a twist) is threatening to dethrone the perennially popular Aperol spritz as the drink of the summer. In the era of the microtrend, the martini—whether maximalist, mini or savoury—has become a mirror of the establishment that serves it. At Isaac McHale’s Bar Valette, London E2, the concoction is blended with absinthe, maraschino or orange bitters. At Café François, SE1, and the Covent Garden Hotel, WC2, it comes with fries at a happy-hour discount of £10 and £14, respectively.
The martini at Claridge’s, W1, is, fittingly, a classic: ice-cold liquor with a hint of vermouth, as if it’s flirted with the glass, but not yet become intimately acquainted with it. Some more seasoned…