Indholdsfortegnelse for April 2023 i Country Style

RECENTLY, I had the pleasure of visiting Pavilion Dining at Pialligo Estate, just outside Canberra in the ACT. The restaurant, the food, the service and the wine were all spot-on. An impressive lunch indeed, but the enduring memory was of touring the onsite farm with executive chef Mark Glenn. It is expansive, some 22 hectares on the flat beside the Molonglo River, which curls around the property, with an olive grove, orchard and large market garden. This month, I saw another impressive farm supplying another restaurant – this time the iconic Lake House in Daylesford, Vic. Larissa Wolf-Tasker showed me around the rows of chemical-free vegetables, vines and olive trees at Dairy Flat Farm in the hamlet of Musk, which supplies Lake House and is also owned by the Wolf-Taskers.…

A MONTH IN THE COUNTRY WESTERN AUSTRALIA Other Horizons, until Apr 23 Fremantle Arts Centre hosts this powerful visual narrative about the paths that lead people to the land Down Under. From the stark reality of slavery to colonialism, migration and First Nations spirituality, it’s a thought-provoking study. Other Horizons celebrates three talents: South Sudanese artist Atong Atem; Gunditjmara and Djabwurrung photographer and artist Hayley Millar Baker; and Australian South Sea artist Jasmine Togo-Brisby. Gain insight into Australian history from new angles. fac.org.au QUEENSLAND Gladstone Harbour Festival, April 6-9 Gladstone’s Marina Parklands will come alive this Easter weekend with stage shows, free kids’ activities, markets and carnival rides, along with a festival run, orchid show, and patchwork display. On Thursday, Family Fun Night will include an appearance by Gladstone Ports…

WHEN YOU GROW UP in Mudgee, as I did, you don’t just know about Spencer Cocoa; you have a pantry packed with its chocolate for gifts, special occasions, or – in my case – a daily delight. In 2010, Luke Spencer, 47, the company founder and owner, traded gum trees for cocoa trees and set off on an adventure to the South Pacific island of Vanuatu that would change his life. After studying viticulture at Charles Sturt University in Wagga Wagga, NSW, in the early 2000s, Luke was offered a job among the grapevines in Mudgee, and planned to stay for a year or two. But 20 years, a family, and a small business later, he says things don’t always work out as you expect. “I thought I’d move on…

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FRENCH ANTIQUE URNS overflow with billowy garden roses and blousy dahlias, while footed vases spill over with frilly, fragrant sweet peas and elegant foxgloves. This is the work of Helen Leighton, a floral designer who blends traditional cut flowers with Australian native botanicals. Set beside the Kalgan River near Albany on the southern tip of Western Australia, Riverdale Farm is a 40-hectare property where, for almost 18 years, Helen has been growing and designing with the changing palette of the seasons. “I consciously capture the wild and romantic spirit of our garden for my design work,” Helen says. “The seasons are a never-ending source of inspiration.” Gardening has been a lifelong passion for Helen. Starting her working life as a midwife, then managing the busyness of life with young children,…

GOURMET GARDEN FOOD SET ON THE BANKS of the Molonglo River, a 15-minute drive from Canberra, is the fifth-generation, family-owned farm Pialligo Estate. Tucked among the vineyards you’ll find an olive grove, orchard, market garden, award-winning Smokehouse and a hatted restaurant, Pavilion Dining. Here, you can delight in organic produce transformed into exquisite meals. After years of training as a chef at some of Australia’s most prestigious restaurants, Mark Glenn has found a change of pace as executive chef at Pialligo Estate. “I spent quite a few years working for Dinner by Heston [in London] and after that, I became head chef of Cumulus Inc [in Melbourne],” he says. Working at Pialligo Estate has given Mark access to the magic ingredient he believes sets the restaurant apart: its 22-hectare farm.…

TILLY’S TABLE FOOD HAS ALWAYS PLAYED a starring role in my life: the thinking about it, the making of it, and the eating of it takes up most of my waking hours. I can blame (or rather, thank) my parents for this, for they have always prioritised food. For as long as I can remember, they have grown fruit trees, kept chickens, and cultivated a vegetable patch that I could never hope to rival. As a kid, I took this as the norm – but the older I get, and now having children of my own, I appreciate what a brilliant start it was. Mum made her own jam, Dad kept bees, and our bread, cakes and pastries were mostly homemade. It wasn’t fancy food, but it was good food…

MARJORIE TAYLOR AND KENDALL SMITH FRANCHINI COOKS AND ENTREPRENEURS, 60 AND 41 RESPECTIVELY Marjorie and Kendall run their cooking school, The Cook’s Atelier, in the small town of Beaune in the French countryside. Marjorie resides in town with her partner, while Kendall lives with her husband Laurent, 44, and their children – Luc, 11, Manon, nine, and Lou, four – (plus Rousseau the golden retriever, cats Pia, Jack and Coco, and six hens) in a stone house in the woods. What do you love about living in the country? Marjorie: Beaune is a small town, but the best part is it is surrounded by vineyards and quaint wine villages. I get my ‘dose’ of country when I visit Kendall and Laurent. Kendall: I love living in the country because we’re…

FIELD GUIDE HOME BARISTA Create delicious lattes, cappuccinos, long blacks and macchiatos at home with Breville’s ingenious The Barista Touch Impress. harveynorman.com.au MAKING MEMORIES Remember your favourite dress as a child? Aunty Em’s exquisite frocks will delight the special little girl in your life. auntyem.com.au TOP PERFORMANCE Elevate your cooking repertoire with Ilve’s luxurious Nostalgie Series oven. Its sleek, brushed metal accents exude refinement. ilve.com.au TOUCH THE RAINBOW Fabulous Sock by Skein Sisters is a four-ply yarn in Australian merino and nylon, delicately hand-dyed in more than 60 hues. skeinsisters.com.au SITTING PRETTY The Cristo Bar Chair brings a bistro ambience to your kitchen, with its fresh, modern design suited to all interior styles. ozdesignfurniture.com.au CHIC COMFORT PJ Miller’s stripy cotton shirt dress is ideal for sunny social events, or paired…

KRISTINA SOLJO Photographer Kristina’s love for the country stems from her childhood in the Blue Mountains. She shot this month’s Beauty story on page 134. “I live on a 10-hectare property in Yarramundi, at the base of the Blue Mountains,” says Kristina, 40, of the home she shares with her partner Alex, son River, and kelpie, Tex. “I love the space, the ability to grow our own food, and being close to nature.” While she has travelled the world as a photographer for more than 20 years, there’s no place like home. “I don’t need much in life: I’m happy with fresh air, mountains, and my family,” she says. “I now focus on photographing lifestyle and interiors. I get to collaborate with people who inspire me while still being out…

STILL LOVE Hanging a still-life food painting, like this gorgeous work, Enso by Matilda Michell, in your kitchen or dining room not only nods to the form’s long history (it dates back to the ancient Egyptians in the 15th century BCE) but also puts you in the mood to feast. Visit michaelreidsouthernhighlands.com.au pretty in pattern Stylist Aimee Jones’s lovely Clementine & Co napkins were inspired by the Victorian-era hobby of flower-pressing and vintage printed china. Visit clementineandco.com.au HEART OF OAK Cabinet-maker Jay Jun handcrafts modern furniture to your specifications, and also sources and restores antiques like this beautiful English oak sideboard, perfect for storing dinnerware, napkins and tablecloths. This one has already gone to a lucky customer, but view Jay’s newest finds at: jandfurniture.com.au COOK’S CHOICE Italian brand Smeg blends…

PEOPLE TENTERFIELD NSW ROW UPON ROW of bobble-headed, mauve garlic crops lead to native bush at Rose Hawkins’ and Steve Scott’s certified organic farm in Tenterfield in northern New South Wales. Sitting on Tenterfield Creek, where the Bundjalung people are the original custodians of the land, the farm was established by Dick and Dora Rochford in the 1980s. “Dick is famous in Australia for growing garlic,” Rose says. “The farm was certified organic 35 years ago, at the start of organic farming’s popularity in Australia.” Dick experimented with garlic varieties and found that the Oriental Purple and Russian (also known as Elephant Garlic) took easily to the region’s sandy loam and temperate climate. Since buying the property in early 2018, Rose, 63, and Steve, 60, have continued to grow and…

In the pink A pink AGA takes pride of place in this 1860s cottage in Maldon, Vic. “We chose Blush for a touch of romance and a subtle pop of colour,” says its owner, stylist Kirsty Davey of Otis & Otto. The cabinets, in Porter’s Paints French Green, are full of ceramics by Bridget Bodenham. Kirsty bought her copper pots in France, and the vintage K3 Picquot Ware kettle came from the UK. Closer to home, her clever husband, Grant Gillies, created the dramatic light fixture from foraged tumbleweed. Port in a storm “A freestanding oven in the space was something I felt strongly about because I knew it would become the heart of the cottage,” says Georgie Selman, owner of Port Cottage in the seaside village of Port Campbell,…

BASQUE IN GLORY One of last year’s most welcome additions to the Hunter Valley’s dining scene was Sebastian, the Spanish-influenced fine diner at Spicers Tower Lodge hotel. The restaurant is named for San Sebastian, where head chef Gianni Moretto earned his stripes; a town renowned for its Michelin-starred restaurants and rich heritage of Basque cuisine. Here, Moretto sends out impeccable dishes that are simple, seasonal and invariably excellent. Visit spicersretreats.com MIX IT UP KitchenAid’s iconic mixers have been gracing stylish kitchens since 1919, but this may be their prettiest yet. The KSM180 Design Series Stand Mixer in Blossom has a thyme-green body in a velvety finish, plus a spectacular hammered copper bowl. Visit harveynorman.com.au A VINE OLD AGE Which country has the world’s oldest vines? Yes, it’s us. Strict biosecurity…

FRESH RESOLVE I am enjoying a cup of coffee and my copy of Country Style. It is a moment of true contentment. I am sitting in our new forever home, surrounded by furnishings imbued with meaning – our antique dining set that sat (never used) in my mother’s house when I was a child, the clock my husband bought with his grandparents, the sideboard we refurbished. The excitement of unpacking has faded. However, as I read, I am inspired and excited again at the prospect of extending that contentment to every room. Sarah Anderson, Anna Bay, NSW ROUTINE JOYS I eagerly look forward to each edition of Country Style – particularly Maggie MacKellar’s column. January’s was outstanding, as Maggie’s Chores Made Easy elevated washing day to a new level.…

A DAY IN THE COUNTRY WE HAVE A NEW PUPPY arriving next week. It’s not a work dog pup, but a new companion dog. I’m feeling both excited about this new, very cute arrival and a little bit sad. It’s a changing of the guard; an acceptance that our beloved dog family is growing old. My days are edged with dogs. From the moment I let them inside in the mornings till the moment I get into bed at night, I have a dog (or several dogs) at my feet. The snoring of my black labrador, Dusty, is the background soundtrack to my life. As I type, she’s sound asleep on her sheepskin with her head resting on my foot. It’s not uncomfortable, but earthing. Ethel, The Farmer’s old corgi,…

MANSFIELD VIC PROPERTIES ON THE Delatite River in Mansfield in Victoria’s romantic high country are, unsurprisingly, hard to come by. So, the Roberts-Thomson family, third-generation cattle farmers, didn’t hesitate when a farm neighbouring their own home suddenly came up for sale a few years ago. Known as Riverfield, the 200-hectare property offered Tim and Jenee Roberts-Thomson room to expand their Angus beef grazing operation and also accommodate their three adult children – Georgia, 36, James, 33, and Madeleine, 31 – on regular weekend visits to the region. “We’ve been going to Mansfield for over 30 years,” says Madeleine, who spent her childhood learning to ride horses and attending pony club in the area on weekends. She adds that Mansfield, the traditional land of the Taungurung people, is a “unique spot…

FRANCE IT ALL STARTED WITH A French teacher at a high school in Phoenix, Arizona. “I had a really good French teacher who made moving to France seem possible,” says Kendall Smith Franchini, co-owner of The Cook’s Atelier, a culinary school she set up with her mother in the medieval town of Beaune, in the heart of Burgundy wine country. Her mother, Marjorie Taylor, says it actually all started with Kendall herself: “I blame it on Kendall because she’s a real Francophile,” she says. “Even as a child, she was always fascinated with France.” But maybe it really all started with Julia Child, the TV chef whose 1961 cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, introduced French cuisine to generations of Americans – including Marjorie. “In my mid-to-late 20s is…

WHAT IS IT THAT MAKES a ‘country’ kitchen? Do we take it literally, meaning any kitchen a certain distance from a capital city CBD, where the paved road narrows and turns into corrugations, and red dust that gathers on the windowsills? Or is it something less tangible? It’s hard to know why this little kitchen, positioned in a lovely house just outside of Adelaide, SA, has such a ‘country’ feel to it, but somehow it does. This kitchen – more than a century old and once owned by a special woman named Evelyn – feels as country as they come. Perhaps it’s the furnishings. At the heart of this little kitchen is my granny’s old table, salvaged from her homestead on the property where I grew up at the back…

MORE WORDS have been wasted on the topic of food and wine matching than any other matter of such meagre importance, with a small army of experts falling over themselves to tell us Dish A must go with Wine B, and we’re doomed if we dare try it with Wines C, D or E. I’m not one of them. I’ve always thought food and wine matching rules were like intestinal gas, Greek dinner plates, and those plastic outdoor chairs no large man should sit on. Made to be broken. One of the best things I’ve ever eaten was a dish that broke one of the fundamental culinary commandments. The late, great Tony Bilson once served a beautiful piece of Murray cod in a red wine sauce loaded with lardoons and…

MY TOWN DAYBORO QLD Amanda & Brian Wood OWNERS, WOODSIDE CERAMICS “There is a sense of mateship and generosity that permeates our township.” HOME TO SOME 7000 PEOPLE, Dayboro is a thriving township about 45 minutes’ drive north-west of Brisbane in Queensland. Framed by the lush peaks of the Glass House Mountains, and with D’Aguilar National Park and Samford Conservation Park nearby, the town offers everything from hiking and horseriding to gourmet cuisine and art galleries. Visitors can also take a leisurely stroll through the town’s main street, where they’ll find a variety of delightful cafes, restaurants and stores. One such business is Woodside Ceramics, owned by Brian and Amanda Wood. After tying the knot at Henzell’s Chapel just outside town, the newlyweds fell in love with Dayboro’s serene…

MOTHERLAND Stephanie Trethewey, Allen & Unwin, $34.99 What do you say to a woman who watches a man hurl a cat at the wall and shoot it dead – but still marries him? Did he turn out to be a great father? Sadly, no. Part of Karen’s problem was that there were no friends or family around, let alone health professionals or a community. She lived on a remote dairy farm in Tasmania. When Trethewey heard Karen’s story, she started up the Motherland podcast as a virtual village for isolated mums. Her book is based on 14 interviews. This is no peepshow because Trethewey has been there. She knows firsthand the loneliness, depression, exhaustion and boredom these rural mums face. One account comes from writer Fleur McDonald, whose 20 novels…

FROM TIME TO TIME, official interrogation demands that I declare my highest level of tertiary education and/or higher education. They want to know if I’m sufficiently qualified to apply for innovative solutions to entrenched social issues. Perhaps they’ve noticed that I’m in line for Australia’s Disability Strategy. Or that I need to apply for the Pensioner Energy Supplement. Boy, we all need that. Whatever their motives, I just enter ‘Dunedoo Home Hardware’ as my Academy of Higher Education. I discovered Dunedoo 30-odd years ago, fresh from the city, where people know everything they need to know. Which is precious little. In the bush, you need to know what you’re about… constantly. We bought a 19th-century courthouse and jail which used to offer free accommodation to those who had strayed beyond…