Indholdsfortegnelse for December 2016 i CROWN Malaysia

Ong Weisheng Stylist Formerly an in-house stylist for a high-society magazine, Weisheng brings eight years of experience to his freelance work. Fond of constructing mini sets for his shoots, Weisheng believes in tailoring his style to suit the subject matter; an approach evident in his evocative watch and jewellery spreads. Brian Jones Writer Brian is a freelance writer and editor who was born in the outskirts of Washington, D.C. and currently based in the outskirts of Seoul. Along with writing on all things horological, he’s been known to pen pieces on men’s fashion, sports and popular culture. When he’s not writing, he can be found travelling the continent, fumbling in his attempts to speak the local tongues. Charmian Leong Writer After seven years of full-time employment, four of them spent…

“Aye!” Melissa Kong In a previous life, I wrote food reviews and some of the chefs I met were vehemently against the use of social media. They hated the idea of diners whipping out their phones to Instagram the umami out of every single dish, only tucking in after the food had been perfectly filtered and blasted out to hundreds of followers online. In their opinion, social media robbed diners of the opportunity to fully appreciate the food right in front of them. You don’t get that problem in haute horlogerie, though. On the contrary, SOCIAL MEDIA ACTUALLY OPENS THE DOOR to a greater appreciation of fine watchmaking and levels the playing field for aficionados. Look at it this way — before the advent of social media, the only people…

“The whole idea about high-end watchmaking is to stretch the limits and challenge what has been done before,” says Gregory Dourde, HYT’s new CEO. “The tourbillon has been around for 200 years. What major new innovations have we seen since? The quartz movement? It’s time we buck up.” Although he had just taken over from previous CEO Vincent Perriard in April, Dourde is more than familiar with the progressive watch marque, having previously helmed Preciflex, the sister company that provides the technological platform on which HYT builds its watches. Founded in 2012 on the same day, both Preciflex and HYT have, in short order, established themselves as flagbearers for modern and avant-garde horological flights of fancy. Core to their ambitions is, of course, the revolutionary liquid-based time-telling system that currently…

When the Swatch Sistem51 debuted two years ago, the S$209 plastic-clad, machine assembled mechanical watch induced hysteria among watch lovers on a scale unseen since, well, the introduction of the very first Swatch watches back in 1983. During the initial months of its launch, the Sistem51 flew off the shelves as collectors bought multiple units in every available execution (There were four colours). Yours truly took the opportunity to snare a couple on a fortuitous work trip to Swatch’s home ground in Switzerland, eager to get my hands on the curious new mechanical marvel as the watches were yet unavailable in Singapore. And what we got for approximately the price of a Michelin-starred meal for two in Singapore was quite a horological milestone: an inexpensive, Swiss-made automatic watch that had…

PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA “TIMELESS WHITE” Forget about looking after it for the next generation—this is a watch you’ll want to keep for yourself. Like, till-the-end-of-time forever. That’s why it’s called ‘Timeless White’. Okay, maybe we’re stretching it a little there but the classic elegance of this timepiece in white and rose gold (with diamonds, of course) is just a picture of sheer perfection we think hits the mark every time. VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS SMALL NUMBER When you can choose any timepiece you desire, why not turn to the oldest and one of the most prestigious watch manufactures? This Vacheron Constantin piece has a stunning blue dial, framed by a ring of diamonds, and is paired with the brand’s signature half-Maltese cross and bracelet with polished and satin-brushed links. BREGUET PERLES…

A sure way to rile up a watchmaker is to ask him where he puts the battery in a mechanical movement. We recommend that you make your intentions known – immediately and clearly, too – that it was meant as a joke, and that you do so at your own peril. But really, watchmakers are much more humorous than one imagines them to be. The question of how a mechanical watch gets powered up, however, is a serious one. Without power, a watch simply can’t run and tell the time. And as with all matters horological, it is the details that fascinate. With a mechanical watch’s power reserve, questions of how they are being generated, stored, dispensed, for what purposes, for how long and how consistently, are constantly being reviewed…

FRANCK MULLER Vanguard Cobra The Vanguard Cobra is a sensorial treat that practically demands to be experienced first-hand. Milled from a solid block of 18K rose gold or stainless steel, its Cintrée Curvex case has been adorned with a realistic three-dimensional cobra scale motif that would require some resolve to keep one’s hands off of it. This tactile effect is extended to its rubber strap with leather overlay, and its dial, which is understandably protected by a sapphire crystal. Available with a self- or manual-winding movement, both with 42-hour power reserve, it also comes in an automatic chronograph version with a 48-hour power reserve. H. MOSER & CIE. Swiss Alp Watch Let’s face it, none of the new-fangled smartwatches would qualify as an heirloom piece. No, not even rose gold…

How would you like your news briefs? How about we start with not-so-good and end with something positive to close 2016 on a high note? First up, the latest round of financial reports from the luxury conglomerates don’t make for very happy reading, with the Swatch Group and Richemont Group posting unfavourable returns. Richemont Group, in particular, is taking tough measures to solve its woes, the most noteworthy being the abolishment of the group CEO role. Moving forward, brand CEOs will report directly to Johann Rupert, the group’s chairman. Next, some moderately good news. The downward trend for luxury watch retail can probably be attributed to market cycles. Today, we are seeing the effects of the cooling of the Russian and Chinese buying surge, which has been on a good…

From October 28 to 31 December, watch lovers in Malaysia will be treated to ‘An Exquisite Showcase of 100 Complications’ courtesy of Sincere Fine Watches at their flagship boutique in Suria KLCC. As its name suggests, 100 complications worth over RM100 million from 22 different watch brands will be on display, and visitors can expect an astounding spread that spans tourbillons to minute repeaters—with each expressing a unique take on technically inspired haute horlogerie, as well as demonstrating a high level of artisanship and ingenuity. Vice-chairman and managing director of Sincere Watch, Kingston Chu, shares his thoughts on the exhibition. Sincere held the 100 Tourbillons Exhibition in 2014, which was so successful that the company is organising 100 Complications this year. Can you give us a sense of how successful…

I set up my atelier in 1981. It was a really bad period to start but I was driven by passion – the opportunity to restore rare and valuable timepieces – and the fact I needed to survive. There weren’t enough jobs going around as it was during the time of the quartz crisis, but I still had to eat. I certainly wasn’t thinking about being successful at that time. The circumstances didn’t permit it. But I believed in my work, my craft and my sense of self. I believed that someday, it would pay off. I just didn’t know when. When Roger Dubuis the company grew to such an extent that a manufacture was being built, I was absolutely floored. I remember thinking, “This is really huge and beyond…

Asia’s premier luxury watch retailer The Hour Glass is showing no signs of letting up, enthralling watch collectors by opening not one, but two boutiques of the two biggest watch brands on the planet. Rolex and Patek Philippe, two marques at the apex of the horological pyramid find themselves neighbours at The Gardens Mall at Mid Valley City. The opening of the two boutiques side-by-side is described as a veritable milestone of The Hour Glass’ 35 years in the watch trade, and a sure sign of the company’s clout and continued efforts to enliven Malaysia’s luxury retail scene. The event was graced by Teh Soon Kheng, general manager of The Hour Glass, Antony Barragry, CEO of Mid Valley City, and Elizabeth Tan, director of leasing of The Gardens Mall.…

Fans of MIDO would know that its timepieces are inspired by some of the most iconic landmarks in the world. With that, the brand recently headed to Hong Kong to open the #BeInspiredByArchitecture exhibition—held from 25 to 28 August 2016—a showcase of paper sculptures by Canadian-based Hong Kong artist, Yee, in the shape of famous buildings and structures like Big Ben, the Eiffel Tower, and Sydney’s Harbour Bridge. The first stop in the exhibition’s world tour, Hong Kong is filled with iconic monuments that could possibly inspire future MIDO watch collections. Officiated by MIDO president, Franz Linder, MIDO HK’s vice president, Sam Ng, theatre star Joey Leung and actress Bernice Liu, the exhibition comprised four different sections, including one featuring a mini movie made in Hong Kong, starring Joey Leung…

THE CHARMING BIRD This is the big one, isn’t it? What we have here is a completely three-dimensional, singing and spinning bird. Inside a wristwatch. Placed within the safety of a sapphire crystal dome, the bird is free to open its beak to chirp, flap its wings and dance at the push of a button. In its debut version, the spectacular movement was exposed for all to admire. This year’s model features a hand-engraved and painted mother-of-pearl dial depicting the Swiss countryside. BIRD REPEATER GENEVA An automaton wristwatch to rival The Charming Bird, The Bird Repeater is an all-out display of the best artisanal and technical crafts Jaquet Droz has to offer. At the heart of the watch is a minute repeater complication, technically one of the hardest movements to…

CORUM – ADMIRAL’S CUP LEGEND 38 A regatta-inspired icon reinterpreted for women, the Admiral’s Cup is emblematic of Corum’s sporty persona. This 38mm steel cased version still flaunts the collection’s distinctive facetted bezel and nautical pennants, albeit with softer lines and decidedly feminine touches including a chic white dial and matching rubber strap. HARRY WINSTON – OCEAN CHRONOGRAPH AUTOMATIC 36MM Go the whole nine yards if you want to do ‘casual-luxe’. This dainty but attention-grabbing Harry Winston chronograph brings a dash of glamour to the party with its diamond-set rose gold case. The watch isn’t short on mechanical substance either, driven by an automatic chronograph movement with 40-hour power reserve. AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE CHRONOGRAPH It is amazing what a sprinkle of diamonds and a lot of gold…

FRANCK MULLER Backswing Next to the caddy, the Backswing could possibly be a golfer’s best companion on the green. Its affiliation to the sport is immediately apparent, what with the distinctive dimples of a golf ball carpeting the dial, case and strap. That said, it’s more than just a pretty face, not least because of its nifty central counter that keeps track of the number of strokes via two pushers clearly marked ‘score’ and ‘reset’. In addition, its automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve is protected against shock and vibrations by a silicon inner casing ring. Available in stainless steel or titanium. HAUTLENCE Vortex Primary For his second collaboration with Hautlence, former professional footballer Eric Cantona expresses his passion for art by dressing the Vortex timepiece in a new outfit…

A. Lange & Sohne • Lot G34, Ground Floor Suria KLCC Tel: 603 2166 2181 • Lot 2.01.07, Level 2 168 Jalan Bukit Bintang Tel: 603 2141 8418 Audemars Piguet • UG29, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL Tel: 603 2144 8639 Bedat & Co • UG32, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL Tel: 603 2141 7881 Bell & Ross • Lot 106A, Level 1 Suria KLCC Tel: 603 2164 5175 Blancpain For enquiries, please call • Cortina Watch · KLCC Tel: 603 2164 5175 • Sincere Watch · Pavilion Tel: 603 2141 8418 Breguet • LL1, Main Lobby, JW Marriott Hotel Kuala Lumpur 183 Jalan Bukit Bintang Tel: 603 2142 3788 Breitling • Lot 2.03.00, Level 2, 168 Jalan Bukit Bintang Tel: 603 2141 2571 BRM • BRM Chronographes UG21, Adorn…

“If you love something or someone, you give it due respect.”Angelo Bonati, Panerai CEO, on the foundation of the brand’s success “WE DON'T PRETEND TO KNOW EVERTHING, BUT WHAT WE KNOW, WE PASS ON.”Philippe Dufour, master watchmaker, on legacy “Remember when a watch manufacturer could just produce anything and find someone who will buy it? Those times are over.”Patrik Hoffman, Ulysse Nardin CEO, on changing customer sentiments he tourbillon has been around for 200 years. What major new innovation have we seen since? The quartz movement? It’s time we buck up.Gregory Dourde, HYT CEO, on the watch trade’s stagnant creativity “Think carefully about where you want your adventure to go.”Stephen Forsey, Greubel & Forsey co-founder, dispensing advice to young watchmakers “It is a little dangerous.”CHRISTOPHE CLARET, MASTER WATCHMAKER, on making…

When people discover what I do for a living, the conversation invariably turns into a courtroom drama where I’m withering on the witness stand facing fast and furious questions like, “Why are luxury mechanical watches so costly?” “Quartz watches are just as good right?” “How can you write about such expensive things? Do you know how many months’ salary that is?” While most times my aversion to confrontation makes me wish I could just crawl into a hole, I also find myself getting increasingly indignant and wanting very much to come to the defence of an industry I have grown to respect immensely. I won’t discuss quartz watches here because that’s another story altogether. (If you’re reading this magazine, you’re probably team mechanical anyway). But the question I get most…

Tonneau The tonneau, a shape recalling a wine barrel’s profile, was introduced by Cartier in a wristwatch in 1906. Today, the shape, which is lends itself well to both modern and vintage-style designs, is a go-to for watch brands looking to imbue their creations with a touch of flamboyance. 1.FRANCK MULLER Cintree Curvex Secret Hours Offering a modernist take on the tonneau shape, Franck Muller created the Cintree Curvex case back in the 1990s, endowing the profile with more pronounced curves and contours. 2.CARTIER Tortue Perpetual Calendar The spirit of the original Tonneau still lives on in the Tortue, aka Tortoise, created in 1912. This model is a classic with an automatic perpetual calendar movement housed in a white gold case. 2.PATEK PHILIPPE Gondolo Ref. 5098R An oft-overlooked collection, the…

Will they or won’t they? At the BaselWorld watch fair in March, Patek Philippe left watch lovers scratching their heads, as the company got all coy and tight-lipped about plans to commemorate the Nautilus’ 40th anniversary. And given the long radio silence, sluggish retail sentiment and all that jazz, we all thought that it just might not happen. What little faith we had. After all, the Nautilus is but one of the most groundbreaking and iconic luxury sports watches ever. Of course, Patek Philippe had to bring it – and they did, with not one, but two limited edition models that will go a long way to ease those sleepless nights for Nautilus fans. Legend has it that the Nautilus took all of five minutes to design. The watch’s unmistakable…

“There are only two brands that have travelled to space,” says Maximilian Spitzy. “One is Omega. The other is us.” The bespectacled and amiable CEO of Fortis is keen to make a few points about provenance and lineage of the brand that he took over two years ago. Fortis’ bragging right to space travel bragging was conferred in 1994, when the brand was named official timekeeper and its Cosmonaut watches decreed as part of standard equipment for Russian aerospace travel – a partnership that endures till today. But go back a few more chapters in the horological history books, and one will find even more astounding Fortis milestones, like how it was the first company to mass produce automatic wristwatches back in 1924, or its advancement of the chronograph complication,…

BVLGARI LVCEA When you’ve attained some sort of success at the workplace, you can afford to experiment a little with your timepieces, or perhaps add a couple more to your collection. This Bulgari Lucea piece fits right into that category with its pink gold case and aubergine alligator strap complementing a mother-of-pearl dial with diamond indexes. OMEGA CONSTELLATION SMALL SECONDS Like you, it’s not just a pretty face; this ticker actually has some serious substance behind that gorgeous mother-of-pearl dial with diamond indexes. A METAS-certified timepiece, this runs on the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8704 and is anti-magnetic to 15,000 Gauss. AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK QUARTZ 33MM Like the Birkin to Hermès, the Royal Oak is Audemars Piguet’s most iconic watch. This version references the very first Royal Oak…

If you ever meet a girl who doesn’t like Harry Winston, take a long, hard look at her because she’s as rare as the Hope Diamond. Captivating the hearts of women across the globe since 1932, the esteemed jeweller (and later, horologer) is famous for its brilliant diamonds and for being the first to adorn celebrities with its rocks on the red carpet in 1944. Christened ‘King of Diamonds’, Harry Winston himself acquired many famous gemstones throughout his career and set the standard for high jewellery creations, pairing the best stones with sheer creativity. He once said, “If I could, I would attach the diamonds directly onto a woman’s skin.” It’s not surprising, then, that his eponymous company has come to be synonymous with opulent jewellery creations of the highest…

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Audemars Piguet has never been one to follow rules, as evinced by its motto, and of course, its trailblazing luxury sports watch – the Royal Oak. Originally launched in steel, it is still bucking trends today with a collection of yellow gold models at a time when prudent spending is encouraged. But if you’ve got it, why not flaunt it? And you can certainly do no worse than with the perpetual calendar model that has a stunning blue ‘Grande Tapisserie’ dial hosting a slew of indications including date, month, leap year, and moon phase. Visible through an open case back, its automatic calibre 5134 movement has a power reserve of 40 hours. CARTIER Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon Even though we cannot deny…

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph The original Royal Oak Offshore may have been intended for men, but that hasn’t stopped women from claiming it as their own. This year, Audemars Piguet gives women more reasons to clamour for the luxury sports watch with a new dial design – dubbed ‘Lady Tapisserie’ – featuring circular graining. This softens the collection’s angular appeal somewhat, without the iconic design. Available in 18K pink gold or stainless steel, its 37mm case has 32 brilliant-cut diamonds highlighting the instantly recognisable octagonal bezel, while the automatic Calibre 2385 has a power reserve of 40 hours. CARTIER Rotonde de Cartier Day/Night Retrograde Moon Phases This watch will have you looking forward to the passing of each day and month. Working on the format established by the…