Indholdsfortegnelse for June/July 2020 i CROWN Malaysia

By the time you read this, countries around the world should hopefully be easing their lockdown restrictions brought on by the COVID-19 pandemic. During the months of prolonged disruption, many activities involving mass gatherings were cancelled, including all the major watch fairs. But the show must go on, and indeed it did. With the help of technology, the launch of this year’s novelties was conducted via webinars. The silver lining is many brands have taken the opportunity to create new platforms to engage us in more interesting ways, as we admire the new pieces virtually. And if you like what you see on screen, chances are, you will love the real thing when you hold it in your hands. So far, from what has been previewed, I must say it…

Lord forbid if the resilient Swiss watch marques are going to let a close-to-global lockdown stand in the way of their annual watch showcase. Watches & Wonders 2020, the Genevabased exposition that was rebranded from the longstanding SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie), was slated to be take place as a physical exhibition in April 2020. However, the welldocumented ravages of the worldwide health pandemic had made it logistically impossible – and not to mention, ethically wrong – to stage any sort of global exhibition, whether small scale or large. Challenges did not just come in tangible forms like grounded flights, banning of mass gatherings and social distancing. They also came in the form of moods and sentiments. Is it the right time to celebrate watches and watchmaking? What’s…

Proudly old-school, Patek Philippe evokes a sepia-tinged world where deals are sealed on the strength of a handshake, and lovers’ sentiments are best expressed in handwritten letters. And indeed, the 181-year-old company conducts itself in a manner that befits the most beloved traditions of the watch trade. Its chairman and president, Philippe and Thierry Stern, still personally examine each minute repeater before its leaves the factory; relations with customers, retailers and staff are carefully cultivated and valued above all business dealings; and its timepieces are conceived and crafted with heart and deep respect for tradition. Yet, even as all of the above are true, Patek Philippe is no horological granddaddy who is set in its ways and blind to progress and evolution. Quite the contrary, the company has always sought…

As our lifestyles change, so do our ideas about what makes for an appropriate dress watch. And it’s safe to say that elegant pieces now command as much wrist time as sportier makes, regardless of the occassion. Maurice Lacroix appears to have anticipated this trend, as evidenced by the introduction of the Aikon collection in 2016. Launched with the European market in mind, the models were initially equipped with quartz movements because a more mature market mentality is thought not to mind such a technicality. The Aikon collection, however, proved to be such a success in Europe that Maurice Lacroix decided to bring it to Asia—with an automatic movement this time around. Needless to say, it was a repeat performance. “I never expected it to be so successful, to be…

Longines never forgets its past. This is why we are known and recognised throughout the world. We have remained reliable, timeless and constant regardless of what was going on in the outside world. In 2020, we will continue on this path with strong confidence in our products, partners, marketing strategy and local teams the world over. And we are paying close attention to the unfolding situation of the COVID-19 outbreak. Our main concern is to guarantee the welfare of our colleagues and partners. Opportunities will always be there. Greater China (China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Macau) is still our strongest market. For the future, we want to consolidate our presence in there, while focusing on the domestic clientele in Europe and accelerating our growth in the United States and Japan with…

Since the first automobiles were created in the 1800s, men have had a unique and irreplaceable relationship with these complex machines that offered more than just transportation. From mere necessities, cars evolved to become status symbols, companions and the pride and joy of the modern man. While one’s first vehicle might have been a rickety second-hand make that gets you from place to place, successive acquisitions would probably change, along with one’s wealth. Regardless, there will always be that dream car—the unicorn—that sits in the consciousness of boys and men alike; the supercar they aspire to one day unlock at the push of a button in their hand. But what does that have to do with watches, you ask? Plenty, if petrolheads and watch lovers are to be believed. Built…

We will not be the first watch buffs, nor the last, to wonder why Rolex just doesn’t feel compelled to make high-complication timepieces. After all, given its fully verticalised in-house production facilities that can conceive mechanically advanced movement components – ranging from the state-of-the-art Chronergy escapement, to the Parachrom hairspring – surely Rolex could have created some insane tourbillons or perpetual calendars that would’ve easily left other brands in the dust? But no. For reasons best known to Rolex itself, the world’s largest watch brand has almost exclusively only focused on rolling out innovations and wristwatches that improve the basics principles of timekeeping – precision, robustness, and energy efficiency. And in this steadfast journey, Rolex has produced the most beloved and coveted horological icons of our time. Creations like the…

It’s a well-known fact among horology enthusiasts that Bell & Ross’ first love is the world of aviation, as evidenced by a core design DNA famously rooted in flight instrument panels. Yet, in recent years, the company has flirted with new universes through various collaborations—most notably, its partnership with the Renault F1 Team, in place since 2016, that has resulted in the well-received R.S. series. Much like its regular aeronautics-inspired offerings, Bell & Ross has adapted the latest technological advances and state-of-the-art materials used in auto racing to each annual release. “These R.S. models showcase our expertise, our DNA and are in harmony with the design scope of our partner, the Renault F1 Team,” explains Bruno Belamich, Bell & Ross’ creative director. All In Good Time This year’s R.S. timepieces…

Watch lovers who often bemoan the lack of creativity or freshness in their list of to-buys ought to consider casting their sights to Cartier. If there is one thing that the French maison has a good track record of, it is its knack for coming up with instantly identifiable timepieces. And Cartier’s hit-list is one that stretches back right to the start when the company first starting making wristwatches. The storied Santos-Dumont timepiece, which Louis Cartier, grandson of the company’s namesake founder, made for his aviator friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont, in 1904, may have cemented itself in the annals of horological history as the first wristwatch for men. But as the longevity of the Santos collection proves, the watch’s undisputed legacy wouldn’t have been as enduring, if not for its unmistakable…

Whether you are someone who just wants your watch to tell time accurately, or a collector who ventures to the farthest corners of horological academia, you’d have be acquainted with TAG Heuer at some point in your journey of watch appreciation. You’d know it every time you wind up a watch – the brand’s founder, Edouard Heuer, patented the crown-activated, keyless winding system back in 1869. Or, if you were an aficionado, you might’ve discussed the finer points of its ground-breaking innovations, such as the Mikrogrider that can measure time to 5/10,000ths of a second. Heck, even if you were more familiar with Chris Hemsworth than the Carrera, the spectre of TAG Heuer would’ve loomed large, as the brand partners many high-wattage celebrities and sports teams. And that’s just the…

From our Instagram feeds to cherished gettogethers with friends and family, nothing unites (or divides) like our obsession with food. We have even found ourselves planning whole trips dedicated to discovering new taste sensations, due in no small part to the Michelin Guide. The influential annual review also has a fan in Blancpain, which has just announced a threeyear global partnership that will celebrate haute cuisine with more than 20 annual events and guides across the world. This marks a natural progression for the Swiss watchmaker, which has served as an official timekeeper of culinary contests and reviewed world-famous restaurants in its corporate magazine, Lettres du Brassus. Even more significantly, its timepieces have also graced the wrists of celebrated chefs who have amassed more than 100 Michelin stars in total.…

Creativity is also about having fun. The Hijri Perpetual Calendar we recently launched was particularly fun to develop. It is the world’s first wristwatch that tracks the lunar months of the Islamic calendar. We are surprised that no one thought of it before. I see a lot of opportunity in the women’s market. This is especially so in the high-end segment. I think the industry is too masculine and there are many things that can be done. There is also nothing much out there in terms of complications for women. We wanted to do something fun, something positive and something mechanical with a touch of romanticism, so we made the Tonda 1950 Tourbillon Double Rainbow. We are known for our finishing. This year, we are taking our movement finishing to…

For a business that preaches the importance of the human touch and shared experiences, the watch trade now finds itself grappling with the lack of both; forced by the perils of nature and the prudence of legislation into an unprecedented slowdown. What would have been clockwork occurrences – factory operations, annual watch fairs, regional showcases, distributor orders, retail sales, media interviews, and so many more activities that keep the watch business running – are brought to a grinding halt. Even as we write, plans to resume the above are tentative. And just like how we are with our own families and friends, as members of this industry, CROWN’s instinct was to reach out to the watch brands and companies that we love and know so well. We felt the need…

All was not well for Abraham-Louis Breguet in the summer of 1792. The comfy life that the mercurial watchmaker had built for himself in Paris was crumbling all around him, as the French Revolution entered into its first phase of purging the monarchy. But it wasn’t just that social upheaval was bad for business. The master watchmaker was caught in the crossfire, torn between his life’s work and profession, and his political beliefs. The struggle between the upper class and the revolutionaries saw Breguet stuck in the middle, and a break from either divide could very well cost him his life. Although Breguet’s closest clients – those who could afford his innovative and highly crafted timepieces – comprised royals and wealthy noblemen, his own political beliefs leaned very much to…

Hublot challenged commonly held notions of luxury watchmaking when it introduced its ‘Art of Fusion’ concept in 2005 with the Big Bang, a watch that combined various materials like steel, ceramic and rubber into a single timepiece. Fifteen years have passed, and that then-brash and young Big Bang is now all grown up and ready to go ‘adult’ with its first integrated bracelet. The triple-link design—consisting of a large central link flanked by two smaller lateral ones—offers the kind of robust tactility that one has come to expect of a sports bracelet. It may look pretty nondescript at first glance, but the bracelet’s design actually takes after the chronograph pushers of the first Big Bang from 2005. Here, alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces, and bevelled and chamfered links lend a…

It’s no exaggeration to say that affordable mechanical watches with avant-garde good looks are thin on the ground. Until recently, only a handful of companies did the ‘more-dash-less-cash’ combination. But the good news is the numbers are growing with those who are ready to fill that gaping mid-range category. Gorilla is one such example. Entering the fray as recently as 2016, it answers the prayers of first-time watch collectors with modern creations composed of high-tech materials that enhance their captivating aesthetics. The brainchild of Octavio Garcia and Lukas Gopp, this exciting new company’s backstory is just as interesting. Fast Track Garcia is an Italian-American born in Chicago, whose artistic inclinations started at a young age. The big fan of superhero comics, urban art and American muscle cars is a graduate…

It was Frank Sinatra who literally sang the praises of New York City, searing it into our collective consciousness with the hit, ‘New York, New York’, when he popularised the tune four decades ago. Originally from Martin Scorsese’s film of the same name, the number was sung by Liza Minnelli’s character, Francine, belting out the hopes and dreams of one determined to make it in The Big Apple. For so many, New York City is the epitome of success—a mecca for aspiring thespians and musicians. But it’s also where glitz and glamour reside, with luxe soirees and glittering events like the annual Met Gala drawing society’s finest and brightest. It is this world in which Harry Winston finds itself firmly placed. King Of Diamonds With its reputation for being ‘Jeweller…

When perusing a mechanical watch movement’s features, you’d certainly have come across the denominations ‘Hz’ (hertz) or ‘vph’ (vibrations per hour). The number of ‘Hz’ or ‘vph’ refer to the frequency of a watch, and they basically tell you how fast the movement ticks. Similar to how a clock’s pendulum sways from left to right to control its ‘tick-tock-ing’ speed, a component in the movement called the balance wheel performs the same task; except, instead of swinging from end to end, it oscillates clockwise and then anti-clockwise. The speed at which it oscillates – and regulates the beating of the watch – is referred to as the frequency. The balance wheel oscillates (or ‘vibrates’) at a fixed number of times per hour. The swing of the balance wheel from its…

A. Lange & Sohne Lot G34, Ground Floor Suria KLCC Tel: 603 2166 2181 Lot 2.01.07, Level 2 Pavilion, KL Tel: 603 2141 8418 Audemars Piguet • UG29, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL Tel: 603 2144 8639 Bedat & Co • UG32, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL Tel: 603 2141 7881 Bell & Ross • Lot 106A, Level 1 Suria KLCC Tel: 603 2164 5175 Blancpain • Lot G38, Ground Floor Suria KLCC 50088 Kuala Lumpur Tel: 603 2391 9821 Breguet • LL1, Main Lobby, JW Marriott Hotel Kuala Lumpur 183 Jalan Bukit Bintang Tel: 603 2142 3788 Breitling • Lot 2.03.00, Level 2, Pavilion, KL Tel: 603 2141 2571 BRM • BRM Chronographes UG21, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL Tel: 603 2148 1616 Cartier • Level 3, Pavilion, KL…