Indholdsfortegnelse for Issue 4 2024 i CROWN Malaysia

With the festive season upon us, there’s plenty to celebrate—and plenty of reasons to do so with great panache. This year’s finest releases have finally arrived in stores, perfectly timed for gifting season. Whether you’re shopping for yourself, a loved one, or a business associate, the options are as exceptional as they are diverse. And lucky for you, CROWN is here to guide you through the highlights. First up, Rolex—a brand that needs no introduction. Our Singapore Editor-At-Large Darren Ho has put together an insightful piece on why this horological giant continues to reign supreme. Then, there’s Cartier, headlining our cover with a feature on its sleek, slim designs that prove less is often more. Blancpain keeps it timeless with elegant seasonal releases, as Breitling honours Malaysia with a coveted…

My goal was to create a sporty, classy watch, and the Nautilus definitely served as inspiration. I’ve always wanted to design a square watch, and I thought, “How can I create something as strong as the Nautilus, but in a square shape?” In the beginning, I didn’t see it clearly, but as we worked through the designs, I realised the key was to keep it slim. I’m not a fan of thick watches, and I wanted this one to be thin and elegant, like the original Nautilus, which I still enjoy wearing. The new watch had to feel like a sister to the Nautilus but with its own identity. Achieving that balance wasn’t easy. I knew it had to have its own strength and DNA—something that would stand apart. For…

Seiko fans, this one’s for you! The brand’s latest boutique at The Exchange TRX is a sleek mix of contemporary design, with neutral tones like beige and chocolate brown, glass and steel showcases, and warm, inviting lighting. Inside, you’ll find the full range of Seiko collections—from Astron to 5 Sports, Presage to Prospex—along with unique collaborations with renowned personalities and institutions. Plus, if you’re after limited editions, you’re in luck. If it’s available in Malaysia, chances are, they’ve got it. And of course, each piece highlights Seiko’s signature craftsmanship.…

Jacob & Co just raised the bar yet again with its latest addition to the Astronomia collection. If you thought you’d seen it all, think again—this piece is another jaw-dropping twist on the brand’s cosmic creativity. The Astronomia Régulateur isn't just a timepiece; it’s a mechanical marvel designed to mesmerise. Cosmic Twist While you will still find the signature orbiting planets and rotating arms, the Régulateur offers a bold reimagining of the traditional regulator complication. The dial layout features three separate sub-dials: hours at the top, minutes in the centre, and seconds at the bottom—each on its own independent, rotating axis. This design is a statement of precision, as the dials operate autonomously, requiring substantial power to maintain their complex functionality. But the real intrigue lies in the way the…

In recent years, the watch industry has seen a surge of independent spirit, driven by the rise of microbrands and start-ups. Emerging from both Switzerland and far beyond, these smaller players have injected new life into the world of horology, giving watch enthusiasts a front-row seat to what many call a second renaissance of mechanical watches. Norway’s Best-Kept Watch Secret One of the freshest faces in this landscape is Micromilspec, a relatively new but intriguing Norwegian brand that until recently, has flown under the radar. Founded in Oslo in 2019, it is led by CEO Henrik Rye. Although its catalogue remains modest, each watch is made-to-order, embodying a commitment to both quality and exclusivity. As its full name—’Micro Military Specifications’—suggests, Micromilspec primarily caters to military and aviation professionals, combining Nordic…

Just a year ago, Elie Bernheim and his cousin Jeremie unveiled a brand new neoclassic watch, the Millesime. With its tonal sector-style dial, small seconds display, slim bezel, and Bauhaus-style design principles, the Millesime won the Challenge Watch Prize at GPHG 2023. It was the turnaround the brand needed. The two Bernheims are the third generation of the family that founded Raymond Weil and are so far making all the right moves. The Millesime’s form is based on the Freelancer, Raymond Weil’s core line, but with refined details. Its success invigorated the brand – since then, it’s released new versions in the 39.5mm size with a central seconds model and a rose gold PVD version. A year on, Raymond Weil is building on the initial success of the Millesime with…

Earlier this year, as Rolex unveiled the latest version of the Perpetual 1908, collectors and watch enthusiasts were delighted to see a traditional craft applied to the dial. Engine turning, better known as guillochage, is something more frequently associated with traditional high watchmaking. Released in a polished platinum case and fluted bezel that practically gleams, the rice-grain motif on the ice blue dial of the 1908 creates sparkles and flares of light in the day. Even with no gemsetting, the watch shines like one. From its earliest days, Rolex has espoused a design philosophy that’s elegant yet utilitarian. Its dial designs have typically focused on legibility as well as perpetual style. The dial is more than just the face of a watch; it expresses the qualities that a watchmaker respects.…

For nearly two decades, big watches ruled the roost. Anything under 40mm seemed small, and horology enthusiasts gravitated towards bold, oversized models. But over the last few years, there’s been a renewed interest in smaller, refined designs, and Cartier, ever the trendsetter, has embraced this shift with a stunning collection of mini models that offer a modern twist on iconic designs. Mini Tank Louis Cartier Cartier introduced the Tank in 1917 after Louis Cartier—the grandson of founder Louis-François and heir to the maison—was inspired by Renault’s military tanks rolling through Paris during World War I. Hence, the original design featured a square dial with parallel brancards on either side, mimicking the rollers of the tank. In 1922, Cartier refined this design further with the Tank Louis Cartier, elongating the dial…

The roots of civilisation trace back to around 3200 BC in ancient Sumer, located in the fertile crescent of what is now Iraq. This early society introduced innovations that continue to shape our lives—among them, a system of pictographs used for record-keeping and trade. These symbols evolved into cuneiform, one of the earliest forms of writing. Using reed styluses to inscribe damp clay tablets, the Sumerians created wedge-shaped symbols, which were then left to dry in the sun, transforming raw ideas into tangible records. This advancement led to the evolution of written language, enabling humans to record stories, preserve history, and express creativity—core elements of literature and documentation. Meet Enheduanna: The OG Author Yet the Sumerians contributed even more than written language. They also developed a method for tracking time,…

Bell & Ross has a fascinating side that goes beyond its well-documented obsession with aviation; its passion for grounded pursuits is very much evident too. Founded in 1994 by two friends, Carlos Rosillo and Bruno Belamich, the brand showcases a love for everything from superbikes to supercars. Belamich’s creations reflect this enthusiasm, sharing the same design language as his aviation-inspired timepieces. Time To Race The BR 03 and BR X3 collections feature racing car and motorcycle-inspired watches that impress with their futuristic designs. Last year, we were treated to the BR 03-94 Blacktrack, inspired by two-wheelers—a stunning piece and a tough act to follow. This year, Bell & Ross surprises us once more, by celebrating four-wheelers with an exciting new watch. Introducing the BR X5 Racing, a standout piece that…

Back in 1989, a California-based watchmaker named Luminox set out with a mission: to design rugged, customisable watches tough enough for military use. With models trusted by the US Coast Guard, Air Force, and even the legendary US Navy SEALs, the brand quickly earned a reputation that went global. Though its roots are American, the company chose to produce its watches in Switzerland, tapping into Swiss precision and expertise to meet the exacting standards of military applications. Over the past 35 years, Luminox has become the go-to brand for military and adventure watches that look just as good on civilians. Good To Glow Luminox’s standout feature, especially appealing to military users, is its illumination technology. Rather than relying on phosphorescent materials that need light exposure to luminesce, Luminox uses tritium…

One of my earliest exposures to high jewellery watchmaking was the Lady Kalla Flame, which introduced the Flame cut that is unique to Vacheron Constantin and officially recognised as a speciality cut. The Lady Kalla Flamme was the fourth of the series that began with the Kallista in 1979. That design was crafted by the late French painter and sculptor Raymond Moretti, carved out of a kilogram gold ingot into a geometric lattice set with 118 emerald-cut diamonds totalling 130 carats. The Kallista (Greek for ‘most beautiful’) was the most expensive watch in the world at the time, supposedly acquired by an Arab sheikh and kept at the Maison’s headquarters for safety. While Vacheron Constantin has never acknowledged this rumour, it has stated in the past that the Kallista has…

A. Lange & Sohne • Lot G34, Ground Floor Suria KLCC Tel: 603 2166 2181 • Lot 2.01.07, Level 2 Pavilion, KL Tel: 603 2141 8418 • G03L, Ground Floor, Suria KLCC, 50088 Kuala Lumpur, Tel: +603 2181 6868 Audemars Piguet • UG29, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL Tel: 603 2144 8639 Bedat & Co • UG32, Adorn Floor, Starhill Gallery, KL Tel: 603 2141 7881 Bell & Ross • Lot 3.46.00 Level 3 Pavilion KL 168 Jalan Bukit Bintang 55100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Tel: 603 9212 4456 • Lot 170-G-26,Ground Floor, Gurney Plaza, Persiaran Gurney, 10250 Penang, Malaysia. Tel: 604 202 2676 • Lot F-230A, First Floor The Gardens, Mid Valley City, Lingkaran Syed Putra, 59000 Kuala Lumpur • G.18. G/F, Plaza The Exchange TRX, Persiaran TRX, Tun Razak…

During my first month, I made it a priority to learn as much as possible about Zenith. I engaged with our collaborators and explored every corner of our Manufacture in Le Locle. The experience was truly eyeopening. While I was already aware of Zenith’s fascinating history, immersing myself in it deepened my appreciation for our legacy. One of the highlights was discovering the unique story of the El Primero movement, which has left a lasting mark on watchmaking. Even after six months, I remain inspired, and I’m thankful to our collaborators and partners for helping shape my vision for the future of Zenith. Zenith is truly one of a kind. We are steadfast in our commitment to authenticity, celebrating our savoir-faire and heritage. As the first vertically integrated Swiss watch…

My first encounter with the Breitling Navitimer was as a teenager, when a neighbour proudly showed me his model and its intricate dial. The detail that stood out most vividly was the winged logo—a symbol of something extraordinary—and the name “Breitling,” which would later become synonymous with precision craftsmanship and aviation excellence. Icon Born From Aviation First introduced in 1952, the Navitimer was designed as an essential tool for pilots and quickly became indispensable in the cockpit. What made it revolutionary was its circular slide rule, a feature invented in 1942 by Breitling’s then-technical director, Jean-Paul Girardin. This innovation allowed pilots to make complex calculations—such as fuel consumption and speed—directly on their wrist, earning the Navitimer its place as the world’s first wrist-worn computer. The design was so groundbreaking that…