Indholdsfortegnelse for Issue 1 2025 i CROWN Malaysia

Bangkok is a prime destination for luxury watch collectors, and Patek Philippe is taking note. The brand has unveiled a major expansion of its Bangkok Service Centre, doubling its floor space to 889 square metres. Nestled on the ninth floor of Gaysorn Tower, the centre is one of only eight Patek-owned service facilities worldwide, a testament to the city’s thriving market for high-end timepieces. This expansion is all about elevating after-sales service for collectors who want to keep their Pateks in pristine condition for generations to come. Whether it’s routine maintenance, intricate restorations, or repairs on vintage and modern pieces, the centre is fully equipped to handle it all. High-complication timepieces are still sent to Geneva for specialist care, but everything else stays in the hands of 11 highly trained…

An industry veteran recently opined. “The watch industry is slow to pick up evolutions in consumer trends,” As a result, rapidly evolving consumer trends and the hefty impact of popularity in social media algorithms have created a mainstream look in fine watchmaking. It has also led to a reverse pushback, with some brands simply doubling down on their identity for better or worse. These watchmaking trends that are shaping up are not all positive, but by and large, they are likely to remain. The trend of microbrands sourcing and assembling watches in China remains strong, with no signs of slowing – evident in the success of several Singapore-founded brands. Though quality varies, companies like Atelier Wen have proven that strict quality control can yield high craftsmanship. This has undoubtedly caught…

It’s a big year for Vacheron Constantin. At the start of the year, it introduced its latest Les Cabinotiers creations featuring incredible wood marquetry and enamelling work on two sets of timepieces. Right after that, it marked the start of its celebrations for its 270th anniversary. The first release has us sold (and our credit card limits extended and on hold). It’s, of course, the 222, which will be permanently in the brand’s offering as part of its Historiques series. The Ref. 222 was, of course, Vacheron Constantin’s take on the integrated bracelet timepiece, a luxury sports watch trend that had taken over the run of the 1970s and 1980s. It was introduced in 1977 on the brand’s 222nd anniversary, hence its reference. Its designer, Jorg Hysek, is also very…

The mystery watch has a long tradition in watchmaking, dating back to nearly 190 years ago. Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, a French magician and clockmaker, came up with the first such device in 1839. Using optical tricks to hide the moving components of a clock, he made it look as if the hands moved freely without support. Mystery clocks have come a long way since, but they still have a particular mesmerising charm by offering a different experience of timekeeping. Creating a different experience of time is the rationale behind Parmigiani Fleurier’s “Objets d’Art” collection. The series, which is typically presented on his birthday, combines artistically stunning timepieces with a finely developed chiming complication. It celebrates founder Michel Parmigiani’s love of repeater complications, as well as the idea of going beyond just…

At the end of last year, we pointed out that artistic dials appear to be on the rise across all segments of the industry, from Patek Philippe to Timex (there’s a quartz-powered Q with stone dials, amazingly). It’s quite remarkable, but it also makes perfect sense, as everyone today is seeking something unique that shows their personality on their wrists. However, to demonstrate that the top tiers of watch maisons still stand strong in this field, Piaget released a very limited release of just eight Altiplano watches in January. Guided by Stéphanie Sivrière, head of Piaget’s Design Studio, designer Constanza Candamil came up with the idea of fusing enamelling and gem-setting in a seamless whole. The Altiplano, which is Spanish for plateau, has always been one of the most elegant…

We’ve covered Awake’s Son Mài lacquered dials on silver leaf gilding before, and the combination of the two is absolutely riveting. They give a natural and irregular texture to the dial treatment, along with vivid and provocative colours not always seen together. While Awake isn’t precisely known for its fine watchmaking or artistic expertise in the industry, the style of this craft is thoughtful and elegant, with an emphasis on the craft itself rather than any gimmicky design elements added to the watch. (It’s also the third French watch brand in this feature, which surprises us. Have we sleepwalked into a French watchmaking renaissance?). Artistic dials with serious craft are rarely accessible to most collectors, with the exception of anOrdain or Seiko Presage. There are not many options that are…

Leaning into experiential watchmaking with levitating tourbillons Vanguart wants you to push it real good. The young avant-garde boutique watchmaker has only launched two models so far, but both the Black Hole and Orb Tourbillons are glorious creations. The manual-winding Black Hole Tourbillon and newly-released Orb Tourbillon (which we hope to catch a glimpse of in April) infuse techno-organic design into the wristwatch. Textures, colours, and visible movement are integrated, making watchmaking more interactive and experiential. The concentric display of the Black Hole Tourbillon, for example, with its central levitating flying tourbillon, is like high-tech timekeeping roulette, with a digital display and easy controls. And the Orb Tourbillon has a fully exposed movement, a secret spinning gem-set rotor that’s on the dial, and a foolproof operation: pushers to swap out…

Longines has just added a new name to its family of Ambassadors of Elegance, and it’s a big one—Henry Cavill. CEO Matthias Breschan made the announcement, calling the British actor a perfect fit for the brand’s refined image. Cavill hardly needs an introduction. From playing Charles Brandon in The Tudors to donning Superman’s cape in Man of Steel and its sequels, he’s been a fixture on both the big and small screens. He’s also starred in The Man from U.N.C.L.E., Mission: Impossible—Fallout, Enola Holmes, and The Witcher, with even more projects in the pipeline. Off-screen, Cavill embodies the classic English gentleman—polished, understated, and effortlessly charming. It’s a natural pairing with Longines, a brand built on timeless sophistication. A match made in horological heaven!…

There has been a boom in artistic watchmaking across every segment of watchmaking. Microbrands, major watchmakers, independents, and avant-garde labels are all experimenting with artistic expression in their own way. Naturally, the leaders in this segment are raising the bar even higher - Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers atelier has introduced the Le Temps Divin (‘Divine Time’ in French) that presents time through the lens of East Asian culture. To express the idea of seasonal or cyclical time, they have chosen the Four Symbols, also known as the Four Gods or Guardians, across various Asian cultures and presented them using wood marquetry. Each is a marvel, and the entire collection offers one of the finest examples of wood marquetry work we have ever seen. In total, 150 types of wood were…

The LVMH Watch Week has become a regular programme that almost kickstarts the industry. Right after the event and the announcement of the LVMH Watch Prize, the industry is heading to its next goal post: Watches and Wonders Geneva. It seems almost prophetic that the LA fires led to the sudden cancellation of the event, as the industry faces a stress test with retail shrinking and watch pricing continuing to rise.…

The Louis Vuitton atelier in Geneva, essentially composed of the three companies it acquired to produce movements (La Fabrique du Temps), cases (La Fabrique des Bôitiers), and handcrafts (La Fabrique des Arts), has really found its sweet spot in the last couple of years, delivering whimsical and genteel complications with a soupçon of artistry and a refined case design. The Tambour has never looked better, with a drum barrel-inspired form defined by precise lines and geometries. The Convergence is its latest series, which displays the passing of time with a delicate touch. The guichet or window opening case features two arcs at the top of the dial that reveal discs telling the time, slowly moving counterclockwise as the minutes and hours pass. In rose gold and platinum, the ultra-thin models…

Zenith, the trailblazing brand under the LVMH Group, took centre stage at LVMH Watch Week 2025. True to form, it continued a tradition of captivating fans with three dazzling novelties across two iconic collections. Zenith Chronomaster Sport Rainbow A true icon within the Zenith family, the Chronomaster Sport stands as one of the most recognised advanced sports watches. First launched in 1969, it has evolved with each new iteration, seamlessly integrating cutting-edge materials with enhanced precision to stay relevant in today’s competitive watchmaking landscape. The latest model is not for the faint-hearted. Its bold personality perfectly mirrors that of its wearer. The most striking feature is the vibrant bezel, which showcases 10 shades of sapphire set in white gold, with a diamond separating each one. The black-lacquered dial elevates the…

Bvlgari and MB&F have joined forces once again, this time reimagining the iconic Serpenti in an audacious new form. Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani’s love for industrial aesthetics led him to Bvlgari, while Maximilian Büsser’s childhood fascination with superheroes and sci-fi shaped his futuristic approach to horology. Yet, the two share a deep appreciation for automotive design, particularly the sleek lines of classic cars. Now, in 2025, they reunite to unveil the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti—a radical reinterpretation of the Serpenti collection, first introduced in 1948. While its shape nods to the serpent, this version is entirely distinct: futuristic, daring, and unexpectedly elegant. Coincidentally, the timing aligns with the Chinese Zodiac’s Year of the Snake. Engineering Challenges And Breakthroughs Designed for a gentleman with presence, the watch’s serpent-head-shaped case measures 53mm x…

It’s rare that we see innovation in watchmaking coming from the bottom up, but this is an era of unusual moments. Microbrands, which we traditionally know as brands that are startups, crowdfunded, or work on small-batch production using OEM components, have been pushing standards of watchmaking forward. One area in which they have surprised many is the use of artistic crafts for watchmaking. The most common use of an artistic technique is probably lacquering, and that has become even more accessible today. But 2024 saw stone dials appearing on Timex Qs, which surprised, nay, shocked, many in the industry. Since then, there have been even more unexpected additions to inventive dials. Here are a few that we think have great potential to disrupt.…

Just when we thought we had Serica all figured out, the French watchmaker is throwing us for a loop with its latest release. Since its founding in 2019, the brand has amassed a cult following with its range of vintage-styled, purpose-built tool watches that run the gamut from field to diving and GMT chronometers. So, when the news hit us that the company is launching its first dress watch, we were understandably intrigued. The Serica Parade Ref. 1174 is quite the departure for the brand, possibly divisive in its form but undeniably attractive in its proposition, nonetheless. Adopting a double ellipse form, termed “Stadium” by the company, its stepped case is reminiscent of historical dress watches, but it’s, in fact, very much imbued with the modern brand’s DNA of elegance,…

Big moves in the watch world—Breguet has a new CEO, and it’s none other than Gregory Kissling. The appointment caught the industry off guard, but in the best way possible. Kissling is no newcomer to the game. He started out at Cartier before joining Omega in 2004, where he climbed the ranks from Product Manager to Head of Product Management and later became Vice-President in 2022. He’s been behind some of Omega’s biggest hits, including the Seamaster Diver 300m James Bond 60th Anniversary edition, the revival of the Calibre 321, and the Snoopy-themed ‘Mission to the Moonphase’ crossover with Swatch. Now, with two decades of experience, he’s taking the reins at Breguet—a brand celebrating its 250th anniversary this year. With his track record of innovation, watch fans have every reason…

The Chinese lunisolar calendar is a continuous format calendar, running on a 60-year cycle that starts with the zodiac sign of the Rat. Chinese diaspora and other cultures share this calendar, focusing on the zodiac cycle it tracks rather than the complete traditional calendar. Its complexity means only a handful of watchmakers have ever created mechanical watches for it. Nevertheless, the zodiac signs today are highly popular; there are friends and frenemies among the 12 creatures. While the Snake is sixth in the cycle, it has rich cultural symbolism in both the Eastern and Western hemispheres. That may be why so many brands are indulging in this year with rather mesmerising creations. Here are our favourites. BLANCPAIN Each year, Blancpain introduces a variation of the Villeret Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel that…

This year marks two important anniversaries at Rolex: it’s the 120th anniversary of the Swiss manufacture and the 80th anniversary of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust. As the very first wristwatch to present a date indication on the dial, the Datejust stands as a milestone in mechanical watchmaking. It heralded a new, modern era where the leap week calendar (developed because each Gregorian cycle has a whole number of weeks) gave way to more specificity as modern lifestyles demanded greater long-term planning in business and leisure. Presented in 1945 in an 18 ct yellow gold case with a thin fluted bezel and white dial, the Datejust introduced several innovations for the brand while simultaneously commemorating Rolex’s 40th anniversary. At its launch, the watch was sized at a rather generous 36 mm…

This year, TAG Heuer is fortifying the message that it is one of the biggest chronograph makers throughout its 165 years of history. There’s a generous drop of timing wristwatches starting with a pair of Carreras in a graduated aubergine dial colour, similar to the Monaco Chronograph released in 2022. The metallic purple sheen on a sunray brushed dial deepens into the black curved inner bezel on the Glassbox design of the Carrera. The Carrera Chronograph model FC6607 is a non-limited release with a 39mm case. The self-winding TH20-00 calibre drives the watch, with 80 hours of reserve power held in the mainspring. The skeletonised rotor with TAG Heuer’s shield logo can be seen via the caseback. A small date window shares space with the small seconds counter at the…

Anyone who is a fan of Grand Seiko, and even those who are not, would have heard of the 44GS, which is one of its icons. It defined the Grand Seiko Style when it was released. That same year, Grand Seiko also released another case design with its first automatic calibres. The 62GS shares the same Zaratsu polishing and angular construction, but where the 44GS really emphasises linear planes, the 62GS adds a gentle curvaceousness to its design. This spring, Grand Seiko has introduced three new Heritage collection watches styled in the modern 62GS look. The Ref. SBGH368J is especially significant as this is the first 62GS-style gold model that is not a limited edition. The dials of all three models have a breathtaking pattern, like irregular brushwork on a…

Some colours carry a sense of mystery, and few are as captivating as a deep, vivid blue. Inspired by the idea of a mythical blue flamingo, Tudor has brought this striking hue to the Black Bay Chrono, creating a watch that stands out with both elegance and boldness. A shade reminiscent of clear turquoise waters under a bright sky, it adds a fresh, dynamic touch to one of Tudor’s most iconic designs. Striking And Sporty The Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue” is undeniably handsome. Its domed turquoise blue dial, the star of the show, is punctuated by two sunken black sub-dials—a chrono minutes counter at three o’clock and a continuous seconds at nine o’clock. Tudor’s signature ‘Snowflake’ hands, filled with Super-LumiNova, ensure high visibility, complemented by a red arrow-tipped central…