Indholdsfortegnelse for November/December/January/February 2022 i Cuisine at home

Sheet pan (aka baking sheet) cooking doesn’t require any fancy equipment. Your trusty baking sheet is all you need to create quick and flavorful meals. But if you’re wondering what you should look for in a good baking sheet, be sure to check out pages 28–29 for our review of several top-rated sheet pans and the key features we do and don’t recommend. >> Our recipes start with a half sheet pan, about 18 × 13 inches. This size works well in most ovens and can accommodate several ingredients. >> Choose a heavy-duty gauge thick aluminum or aluminized steel pan with 1-inch sides. >> We recommend avoiding dark metal pans as they brown baked goods too fast.…

Japanese Pancakes We used Hulisen 3(w) × 1¾(h)-inch round cake rings. You can also use English muffin rings, but the pancakes won’t be as tall and impressive looking. Makes 8 pancakes Total time: 40 minutes WHISK: 3/4 cup all-purpose flour 5 Tbsp. granulated sugar, divided 1 tsp. baking powder 1/2 tsp. kosher salt 1/2 cup whole milk 3 egg yolks 1 tsp. almond extract BEAT: 5 egg whites, cold 1/2 tsp. cream of tartar Vegetable oil Water Butter 1 recipe Caramel Buttermilk Syrup or Blueberry-Orange Syrup with maple, page 32 Whisk together flour, 2 Tbsp. sugar, baking powder, and salt in a bowl. Whisk together milk, egg yolks, and almond extract in a bowl, then whisk in flour mixture until incorporated. Chill batter, uncovered, while making meringue. Beat egg whites,…

When SWEATING, the goal is to cook the vegetables, most often mirepoix, stirring often, in a small amount of fat over fairly low heat with the pot covered. Trapped steam from the vegetables slowly softens them without browning (which could alter the dish’s flavor and color). To DEGLAZE, add a small amount of liquid (water, broth, wine, vinegar, etc.) to the pot and simmer until it’s nearly evaporated. This technique allows you to scrape up any caramelized bits of meat or vegetables stuck on the bottom of the pot (aka fond), creating a flavor foundation for your recipe. PURÉEING is primarily called for in soup recipes when you want a silky-smooth texture, to add body, and to help thicken without the addition of flour. The key is very soft vegetables…

OFFSET SPATULA The bent blades of these spatulas are handy for spreading batter, icing, and transferring decorated and delicate cookies. They come in a variety of sizes. BENCH KNIFE The sturdy blade of this “knife” is terrific for flipping dough as it’s rolled out, making clean, straight cuts when portioning, removing bars from pans, and for scraping work surfaces clean. CANDY THERMOMETER A budget candy thermometer works fine, but be sure it clips onto the side of your pot. And choose one that specifies it’s for candy-making (or for jelly or deep frying) so it withstands higher temps. ROLLING PIN An essential kitchen tool used to evenly flatten pie, pastry, and cookie doughs. Choose a rolling pin that rolls effortlessly and isn’t too heavy. COOLING RACKS Cooling is an essential…

THE BUZZ | WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE HOLIDAY COOKIE? Holidays are meant for turning your kitchen into a full-on bakery. And since we love holiday cookies, we thought we’d share our must-have cookies and memories for the season. Share your favorite holiday cookie and memory with us on Facebook or Instagram by using #thebestholidaycookies and don’t forget to tag us @cuisineathome. HOW SWEET IT IS: Holiday Cookies With my maternal grandfather hailing from England and my mom coming from Canada, classic, buttery shortbread cookies have been a part of my holiday traditions my entire life. I distinctly remember leaving plates of cookies for Santa, piled high with shortbreads adorning the top (my grandad ALWAYS squirreled them away!). And as soon as I was old enough, I helped my mom make them,…

Whether it’s a chicken dinner or cookies, baking sheets are indispensable in any kitchen. In the Cuisine Test Kitchens they get workouts every day. This issue we’re looking at what you should consider when purchasing a baking sheet, aka a sheet pan. The criteria for review were highly-rated half sheet pan sets (about 18×13 inches) with two pieces — the pan, plus usually, but not always, a cooling rack or silicone pan liner — and if the qualities of the pan justify the price. First consideration is the material; aluminum and aluminized steel are the best for quick heating. The drawback with aluminum pans is that dishwasher detergents are damaging to the finish. Nonstick pans use various materials for their surfaces, but they are easiest to clean, without a doubt.…

THAI CURRIES conjure that cartoon image of steam coming out of your ears, but that’s fantasy. In reality, Thai curries are assertive but they aren’t overwhelming. Curry pastes are complex mixtures with dozens of fresh or dried chiles, herbs, and spices; most all native to Southeast Asia. Making your own curry pastes would be quite satisfying but a bit time and cost prohibitive. Fortunately, there are commercial blends found at grocery stores, and even better ones that make it worth visiting an Asian market. Plus, while you’re there, you can pick up authentic ingredients like bird chiles, Makrut lime leaves, and spicy Thai basil. Thai curries usually have a coconut milk base and typically involve a technique of either boiling or frying coconut milk or coconut cream (the solid fat…

TODAY’S DUTCH OVEN MODELS are designed for slow cooking both on top of the stove and in the oven. The contained heat creates gently simmering liquid that’s perfect for long, slow braising and roasting. HOW DOES IT WORK? Each method produces a different result: On the stovetop, the heat pushes up from below, causing condensation and self-basting; the liquid level remains nearly constant from start to finish. In the oven, the surrounding heat encourages the reduction of liquid, which intensifies the flavor. TEST KITCHEN NOTE Some lids have spikes on the underside. They’re designed to help direct condensation down to self-baste the food, but we didn’t find them to be an advantage. ANATOMY OF A DUTCH OVEN MATERIAL Dutch ovens can be made of cast iron, enameled cast iron, various…

There’s nothing like a rolled roast to cause everyone’s jaw to drop when it’s brought to the dinner table. With a little prep work, this scrumptious roast is easier than you might think. And the Red Wine Au Jus is the perfect finishing touch. This showstopping meal deserves a round of applause. Rolled Rib-Eye Roast with herb filling Butterflying your roast is easier than it sounds, but if you feel that it’s too intimidating, you can ask your butcher to butterfly it for you. Makes 8–10 servings Total time: 45 minutes + chilling & roasting 1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 cup finely chopped shallots 1 Tbsp. minced rosemary 1 Tbsp. minced garlic 1 cup finely chopped parsley 1 Tbsp. sherry vinegar Salt and black pepper to taste 1 boneless rib-eye…

Vanilla Chiffon Cake “I Can’t Cake My Eyes Off You” Due to the height of this cake, the top may brown quickly. If this happens, cover the cake with foil to prevent the top from burning. Makes 12 servings Total time: 1 1/2 hours + cooling 12 egg whites, at room temperature 1 tsp. cream of tartar 1½ cups superfine sugar 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract 1¼ cups all-purpose flour 5 cups heavy cream 1 tsp. vanilla bean paste 31/3 cups strawberries, halved and tops removed Confectioners’ sugar, sifted Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Do not grease your angel food cake pan! Beat egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment on medium speed until soft peaks form. Gradually add…

Shake (or stir) up some classic sippers this winter. We’ve narrowed it down to a couple you’ve likely heard of — cosmo and martini — along with two you may not be as familiar with — Sazerac and sidecar. With four to choose from, let’s get this party started! Cosmo with cranberry-pomegranate juice Makes 1 cocktail Total time: 5 minutes 11/2 oz. vodka 3/4 oz. triple sec 1/2 oz. lime juice 1/2 oz.cranberry-pomegranate or cranberry juice Orange or lime twist Combine vodka, triple sec, lime juice, and cranberry-pomegranate juice in an ice-filled cocktail shaker, shake vigorously until outside of shaker is very cold, about 20 seconds. Strain cocktail into a chilled glass and garnish with an orange twist. Per cocktail: 221 cal; 0g total fat (0g sat); 0mg chol; 95mg…

The stages vary for the three types of tea. Black tea uses the most steps, then oolong, then green. 1 | WITHERING Leaves are spread out on racks to dry so they become soft and pliable. For green tea, instead of withering, the leaves are steamed to kill any enzymes that could start fermentation. They’re then rolled and fired. 2 | ROLLING Next, leaves are rolled by machine or by hand (the very best teas). This breaks the leaf’s cells so enzymes can contact the air and ferment. 3 | FERMENTING For fermentation (oxidation), the leaves are spread out on slabs of cement, glass, or tile in a moist environment, between 72° and 82° as chemical reactions occur that affect taste. This can take…

LONG-GRAIN WHITE: These long, slender grains are three to five times as long as they are wide. When cooked, they stay dry and separate, with a fluffy texture. And if you can’t find basmati or jasmine rice, long grain is a suitable substitute. BASMATI & JASMINE: Both of these aromatic rices are imported. Basmati comes from India and Pakistan, and has very long, separate grains that expand only lengthwise when cooked. (American-grown Texmati® rice is similar to basmati.) Most jasmine rice is grown in Thailand. It becomes soft and only slightly clingy when cooked. BROWN: To produce brown rice, only the inedible outer husk of the grain is removed. The high-fiber bran layer is not polished off like it is with white rice — it’s what gives brown rice its…

BUTTER TURKEY To cut through the richness, we recommend serving this with rice and a generous squeeze of lime. Makes 4 servings Total time: 30 minutes 1 stick unsalted butter (8Tbsp.) 11/2 cups diced onions 2 serrano chiles, seeded and minced 1 Tbsp. each minced garlic and ginger 1 tsp.each curry powder,ground cumin, and paprika 3 cups chopped cooked turkey (12 oz.) 1 can coconut milk (13.5 oz.) 1 can tomato paste (6 oz.) 2 Tbsp. chopped cilantro Salt and black pepper to taste Melt butter in a sauté pan over medium heat; add onions and cook until softened, 2–3 minutes. Add serranos, garlic, ginger, curry powder, cumin, and paprika; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add turkey; sauté until browned, 4–5 minutes. Whisk together coconut milk and tomato paste;…

FREEZE TAG I make a lot of candy, especially around the holidays, and Peanut Butter Balls are always requested. I’ve found freezing the peanut butter balls a bit will result in a nicer chocolate coating. First, refrigerate the peanut butter filling, then roll into balls, place on a wax-paper-lined cookie sheet, and freeze for one hour. Then simply remove the balls from the freezer and dip them into melted chocolate for a smooth and pretty finish. ANGIE MATHEWS SABILLASVILLE, MD WINNING TIMESAVERS ZAP IT When I need room temperature butter in a hurry it’s no problem. I place a stick of butter in the microwave on “defrost” for up to 20 seconds, turning it every 5 seconds. The butter softens to perfect consistency every time. DANIELLE FISHER JACKSONVILLE BEACH, FL…

THE SECRET’S OUT — whether you call them sheet pans or baking sheets, they aren’t just for baking cookies. The versatile vessel easily knocks out all-in-one meals with little effort on your part. And it’s one of the big reasons they’re popular for weeknight fare. The biggest issue you’ll likely have is deciding which one of these four complete dinners to make first. Chicken parm is one of those meals that’s loved by all, but can be fussy to make ... except this version that’s streamlined for weeknight ease. The classic dish gets a contemporary makeover with no pounding, some panko, and purchased marinara (there are some great options). Trust us. Quesadillas are popular for a reason. They’re not complicated and you can fill them with just about anything. But…

TOP MARKS ACROSS THE BOARD IN TESTING KP KITCHEN FEATURES | • 18×13×1-inch 18-gauge aluminum half sheet pan • 16.8×11.8×1-inch stainless steel cooling rack • Oven-safe up to 500° • Silicone feet on rack. PROS | • Best even heat • Pan won’t warp • Reinforced pan edge with steel wire • Removable silicone feet on cooling rack • Cooling rack is dishwasher safe. CONS | • Silicone feet on rack are a solution in search of a problem • Hand wash pan only. OXO KEEPS CONSUMER-FRIENDLY DETAILS IN MIND OXO FEATURES | • 17.7×13×1.4-inch half sheet pan • 13×9×1.4-inch quarter sheet pan set • PTFE, ceramic reinforced, 2 layer aluminized steel nonstick surface • Dishwasher safe. PROS | • Micro-textured pattern minimizes surface area and promotes airflow • Squared…

Steakhouse Soup with mushrooms & rosemary You’ll likely have 1–3 Tbsp. flour remaining after coating the steak. Depending how thick you like your soup, add more or less according to your preference. Makes 6 servings (10 cups) Total time: 45 minutes SEASON: 1½ lb. center-cut sirloin steak, cut into bite-sized cubes 2½ tsp. kosher salt, divided 1/2 cup all-purpose flour MELT: 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided ADD: 12 oz. cremini mushrooms, quartered 11/2 cups diced onions 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbsp. chopped rosemary DEGLAZE: 1 bottle amber lager beer (12 oz.), such as Shiner Bock 6 cups low-sodium beef broth 2 oz. blue cheese, crumbled Season steak with 1 1/2 tsp. salt; set aside for 5 minutes. Toss steak with flour, shaking off excess; reserve…

SOUPS, STEWS, AND CHILIES SIDE-BY-SIDE SOUPS Every cuisine has a soup tradition, so no wonder it’s one of the most revered dishes in the world. The variations on the theme are virtually endless — you could eat a different concoction every day for a year, and merely scratch the surface of the soup world. Even so, there are common threads that run through all recipes, no matter their country of origin. Here’s where the similarities lie. BROTH VS. STOCK The difference between broth and stock is slight, but in general, broth is made by simmering vegetables and meat for only a couple of hours. Stocks are made by simmering vegetables with bones of meat or fish for much longer periods of time (4–8 hours). Stock has more body than broth…

To avoid undesirable crusts, we prefer lighter-colored metal pans — especially for delicate baked goods like muffins and cakes. If you use darker-colored pans, check for doneness a few minutes before reaching the recipe’s suggested baking time. We recommend you have both baking and cookie sheets (made from heavy-gauge aluminum or aluminized steel) in your arsenal. With at least two open sides, cookie sheets let air circulate around cookies, for uniform baking. Hefty baking sheets with 1-inch sides are a must in a well-stocked kitchen. If you can only have one, go with a baking sheet. Metal baking pans and glass dishes affect baked goods differently, which is why we most often opt for metal. Metal pans bake more evenly and create less crispy edges. But, when you desire a…

Everyone needs a dose of vitamins to keep their bodies healthy and functioning. No need to stock up on supplements. All you need to do is follow a broad healthy diet to meet your daily vitamin needs since most vitamins aren’t produced by the body; they must come from food. And the best part — a variety of food items contain multiple vitamins, which makes it even easier to consume your daily needs. See what foods you should be adding to your shopping cart. VITAMIN A is important for vision and reproduction, along with bone and tissue growth. It also supports the immune system, helping to prevent and fight off infections. FIND VITAMIN A IN: Eggs, sweet potatoes, carrots, pumpkins, spinach, broccoli, cantaloupe, red peppers, and apricots. THERE ARE 8…

what is tea? All tea comes from the dried leaves of the Camellia sinensis plant; the way the leaves are processed (see page 94) determines a tea’s style. During harvesting, the top two leaves and buds of the plant are plucked, then dried (called withering), oxidized (exposed to air), and heated to stop oxidation. Black, green, and oolong teas make up the majority of all tea consumed in the world. Black tea is oxidized the longest, so it has the strongest flavor. Green tea is much milder because it’s dried for just a few hours and isn’t oxidized or heated. Oolong lies somewhere between black and green tea in terms of oxidation and flavor. Sometimes tea leaves are dried with flowers, fruit, or juices — these are known as “scented”…

Thousands of kinds of rice grow around the world. And because different varieties thrive in various climates, rice actually grows on every continent except Antarctica. The selection at the supermarket is less daunting, but choosing the best variety for your recipe can still be confusing. TYPES The big world of rice can be simplified by breaking it down into two categories: Japonica rice that sticks together, and Indica rice that’s dry and separate. The determining factor is the proportion of the starches amylopectin and amylose that each contains. Japonica rice has a large amount of amylopectin, a sticky starch typically found in medium- and short-grain rice. It gives the cooked rice a clinging, soft consistency, and the ability to absorb the flavors of other ingredients. Indica rice is high in…

RICE is easy to cook, good for you, and absorbs any flavor you toss at it. And these recipes showcase just how versatile this glorious grain can be. Risi e bisi is way more fun to say than “rice and peas,” which is what the name stands for. This classic Italian comfort food uses (you guessed it) rice and peas, but we’ve also added some pancetta and fennel to the mix. This bowl of comfort is similar to risotto, but more “soupy” and less fussy. You’ll have a hard time stopping after one bowl. Our Lemon Grass-Scented Rice Pudding isn’t your mom’s or grandma’s rice pudding. It’s every bit as rich and creamy, with cloud-like perfection, but infused with Thai flavors, and a touch of lively cilantro makes this dessert…

Why do Champagne bottles have that indentation on the bottom of the bottle? Ann Palmer, Silver Springs, TX Called a punt (aka a kick-up), they were created in the early days of Champagne making. The pressure created by the Champagne’s bubbles would often cause the hand-blown bottles to explode through the bottom (since the bottles also included a wire on the cork to keep it in place due to the pressure). Because an arch structure withstands more pressure than a flat surface, the arch base made Champagne safe to bottle. Modern glass is strong enough not to require a punt, but it’s become the fashion for sparkling (and other) wine bottles to include the dimple — giving them a certain cachet — and the bottles appear larger than they actually…