Indholdsfortegnelse for January 2018 i Decanter

In brief n China’s leader, Xi Jinping, served Chinese wines to President Donald Trump during a formal dinner in Beijing. Trump has declared himself teetotal, but other US and Chinese delegates enjoyed Great Wall’s Chateau SunGod wines including The Chief Winemaker’s Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2009. n Lab tests confirmed that a bottle of Macallan 1878 Scotch whisky, dubbed the world’s most expensive Scotch, is a fake — but not before a Chinese tourist paid £7,700 for a single dram at a hotel in St Moritz. Analysis at Oxford University showed that the liquid was only around 45 years old. n Luxury fashion house Chanel has confirmed it has bought Château Berliquet, a St-Emilion grand cru classé. The property joins Chanel’s growing Bordeaux wine estate portfolio, which also includes nearby Château…

Andrew Jefford ‘The wines didn’t open the door to the magical kingdom of Burgundy bliss’ BACK IN JULY 2017, I wrote that ‘my first ever truly successful red Burgundy purchase’ was Pierre Labet’s Beaune 1er Cru Coucherias 2012 (bought for €34 a bottle). Richard Jefferys of Weymouth expressed some surprise about this (‘Letters’, September 2017 issue), and wondered if I might like to explain myself. Fair enough, sir. Here’s the unvarnished truth about my Burgundy-buying, red and white. Preamble: I haven’t been able to buy as much Burgundy as I would like, and would hope, indeed, that Mr Jefferys is well ahead of Mr Jefford in the buying stakes. If this is a fault, I plead guilty. In 1995, I bought some of Dauvissat’s Chablis 1er Cru La Forest 1991…

What I’ve been drinking this month Before wildfires descended on northern California wine country, I was in Napa. Ashes & Diamonds is a fascinating new project and its Vineyard 1 Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 is winemaker Steve Matthiasson’s recreation of a typical Napa Cab from the 1960s. It’s super savoury and herbal, with a long finish, and only 12.6% alcohol. The grapes come from the historic Rutherford vineyard George III and, in keeping with wines of the era, it was aged in a mix of French and American oak. It’s a fitting red to drink to the region’s recovery.…

Frey family estates and wines • Château La Lagune Haut-Médoc, third growth, 80ha • Paul Jaboulet Aîné In the Rhône: 120ha across Côte-Rôtie, St-Joseph, Hermitage including La Chapelle, Crozes-Hermitage, Cornas, Châteauneufdu-Pape, Côtes du Rhône • Château de Corton-André 7ha of vines in Burgundy across Corton, Savigny, Pommard, Volnay and Meursault • Champagne Billecart-Salmon 45% of shares; 100ha of vines from which grapes are sold to Billecart • Valais, Switzerland 1,200m2 of vines Frey's first vintage in Burgundy will be 2015, Switzerland 2017…

SOUTH AFRICA Swartland at a glance History Swartland means ‘black country’, a name given by the colonising Dutch because of the indigenous vegetation here, which is characteristically dark in some seasons; largely a grain-producing area, vineyards have also been cultivated here since the early 18th century Capital Malmesbury, about 65km north of Cape Town, is the district capital and has a population of about 36,000 Area in production (2016) 10,274ha under vine; Swartland makes up 10.7% of South Africa’s vineyard area (SAWIS) Red grapes Most widely planted is Shiraz White grapes Most widely planted is Chenin Blanc Viticulture On the whole, hot-climate viticulture with an average summer daytime temperature of 24ºC and average annual rainfall of about 500mm…

José Pizarro Cook book author, TV presenter and chef-proprietor of four London Spanish restaurants including José and Pizarro Photograph: Emma Lee Christmas for me has to be spent with my mum and the rest of my family. It’s the only thing I had to promise them when I left Spain. For me it’s not a religious matter, just a time when we need to be together. My mum has always been ‘the boss’ when it comes to Christmas lunch, but I like to cook with her now. There’s one dish we can’t leave off the menu – baby goat stew with fried potatoes. My other special dish is my colleague Josep Carbonell’s twist on turrón, his turrón mousse – everyone loves it. When it comes to wine, our Christmas cellar…

STEVEN SPURRIER’S fine wine world Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Man of the Year hand-picks fine wines for drinking now and recommends others to lay down, all priced from £25 upwards From the cellar Dinner for Sarah Kemp at Brooks’s A ‘save the date’ note for 26 September last year from Christopher Burr MW, to join him and his wife for a dinner in honour of Decanter’s recently retired managing director Sarah Kemp, was written in stone. Wines were provided by the guests, which included Sarah’s husband Brian St Pierre and son Patrick, 16. I brought my own Bride Valley, Blanc de Blancs 2014, which Lafite’s Christophe Salin said reminded him of Champagnes from the grand cru village of Cramant where he was born. With the pan-fried foie…

PANEL TASTING The results With its yearly variations and food-matching potential, vintage Champagne offers fizz lovers real insight into the region’s true character, as Christelle Guibert reports  CHAMPAGNE IS THE world’s most iconic beverage, mostly consumed during festive periods, at celebrations or simply as an indulgent drink. But given the choice of styles (NV, vintage, deluxe cuvée, library, recently disgorged...), buying Champagne can be a minefield. ‘A lot of the wines have gastronomic potential, because of their extra weight and acidity’ Simon Field MW During a wide-ranging discussion, Simon Field MW noted that ‘this tasting proves there is vintage variation, but to what extent is the consumer going to buy into that when they can buy deluxe cuvées or complex NVs?’ Xavier Rousset MS argued: ‘When buying a vintage…

PANEL TASTING The results The 20 Year Old tawnies trumped their younger counterparts in this tasting, offering impressive consistency in both quality and style, reports Amy Wislocki  IT HAS TO be said that our expert tasters were biased towards the 20 Year Old tawnies from the start. ‘They are the apogee of the tawny Port pyramid for me,’ said Richard Mayson. ‘You still get the freshness of youth, but also the complexity that comes with age.’ ‘20 years is the sweet spot… there’s still fruit there, but all the benefits of the oxidative style too’ Rod Smith MW Rod Smith MW agreed: ‘20 years is the sweet spot because there’s still fruit there, but you have all the benefits of the oxidative style too. Plus, they’re great value! Whenever…

EXPERT’S CHOICE A new taste of Turkey There’s been a real boom in the quality of wines made from across diverse regions and varieties over the past 20 years, says Isa Bal MS, who picks out his best buys TURKEY IS FULL of surprises for wine lovers, offering much more than simple, cheap wines to wash down your kebabs and meze dishes while on a beach holiday. Although Turkey is the sixth largest grape-growing country in the world, with a documented vinous history of 7,000 years, commercial winemaking is still a very small industry dominated by the handful of wineries that are both willing and financially able to navigate the country’s heavily regulated alcohol laws. Increasing numbers of women are also involved, from production to marketing, which is to be…

Owen Bargreen My Seattle With its stunning skyline, fascinating cultural history and obsession with fine food and drink, plus a naturally beautiful setting, Seattle is one of the most rewarding cities in the US to discover, says Owen Bargreen DUBBED THE EMERALD City for its vibrant greenery, the natural beauty of Seattle leaves both visitors and residents spellbound. After growing up in the area, I only really began to appreciate Seattle while living further south in San Diego, studying for my doctorate in clinical psychology. Those visits back home, welcomed by the bright green of parks and surrounding mountains, made me certain that I would soon return and settle. Originally a port city with an emphasis on logging, Seattle grew into a thriving aerospace hub, and now a booming tech…

Tasting notes decoded Vanilla Vanilla is one of the most common descriptors used in wine tasting notes. Its sweet, spicy tones (usually aromas, not flavours) can be found in reds or whites. Vanilla notes are tertiary – usually generated during a wine’s ageing process in oak barrels. Sarah Jane Evans MW, noted Spanish wine expert, Decanter contributor and DWWA co-Chair, explains the science: ‘Vanilla, or vanillin, is an aldehyde that is a component of the oak. It is more marked in American oak than French oak, and in younger barrels rather than older.’ The way a barrel is toasted can also have an impact: ‘Lighter levels bring aromas of vanilla and fresh wood to the fore,’ says Decanter’s US and Burgundy expert William Kelley. Reds from Rioja frequently smell of…

Market watch Two-speed Bordeaux 2015 Post-release, Bordeaux 2015 prices have remained broadly static, yet the best-reviewed communes and estates have made early gains on the market Compiled by Laura Seal Photograph: François Poincet All figures from Liv-ex 14/11/17, unless otherwise stated. EARLY DATA SUGGESTS a handful of the most sought-after Bordeaux 2015 wines have significantly increased in price since en primeur, but most have barely moved. Bordeaux 2015 was heralded at the time as the best vintage since 2010, though ultimately it did not generally attain that level (see Expert’s Choice, p104). Right Bank estates across Pomerol and St-Emilion, plus Margaux in southern Médoc, have been highlighted for particular praise by Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent Jane Anson. At en primeur, 2015 releases were polarised by early caution, followed by a later…

John Stimpfig ‘I am dazzled by the sheer complexity of these age-defying wines’ CURIOUSLY, THE OLDER I get, the more I seem to enjoy and appreciate younger, primary fruit flavours. That’s not to say that I don’t like a gorgeously mature claret or Rioja. But perhaps the age element in wine holds less interest now than when I was first starting out. One exception is great vintage Champagne, especially those cuvées which are really built to last. Time and again, I am dazzled by the sheer complexity of these age-defying wines. What I love most is their interplay of texture, taste and freshness. I have long contended that far too much fizz is consumed with indecent haste. I was most recently reminded of this at an awe-inspiring dinner marking the…

What I’ve been drinking this month Since we’re on a Burgundy riff, I got sent (as a sample) a bottle of the Antonin Guyon, Chambolle-Musigny Clos du Village Monopole 2013 , acclaimed a coup de coeur (heart-throb) wine by the French press. The scents were a little muddled, but the palate was indeed juicy, fresh, singing: top-quality cherry fruit with some of the village’s nobility and grace to it. Little deep-level structure, though: that’s what always proves so elusive in village red wines.…

WINES OF 2017 The most exciting wines of 2017 Decanter experts around the world named the five bottles under £55 that had impressed them most this year. After tasting and rating the 173 nominated wines, assessing them on harmony, complexity and wow factor, our panel of three judges compiled the ultimate top 75 across all styles. Christelle Guibert sums up the results ‘Such a fantastic array – these are the wines the Decanter experts love and believe in’Oz Clarke TO FINISH THE year in style, our ‘stellar buys of the year’ is back by popular demand. The equivalent tasting last year was so memorable we decided to follow the same format, asking our contributors, DWWA Regional Chairs and the Decanter editorial team to share with us the wines they have…

Viñedos Singulares explained Viñedo Singular wine • Note the difference – not single vineyard, but singular vineyard • Demonstrable boundaries and ownership for minimum 10 years • Vineyard more than 35 years old • Can be several plots or vineyards together if they are connected • Yield at least 20% below the regional requirement • Well-balanced vineyards with limited vigour • Hand harvesting • Respect for the environment • Traceability • Quality assessment both initially and before sale • ‘Excellent’ rating Village wine • The winery must be in the same village as the vineyard • Producers may include up to 15% of non-village fruit from neighbouring vineyards outside the village boundary • Name to appear on the front label at the same type size as ‘Rioja’ • Village wine…

Best of the Frey estates: Rhône & Bordeaux Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Le Chevalier de Sterimberg Blanc, Hermitage, Rhône 2014 94 £29.17 (ib) Farr Vintners A Marsanne/ Roussanne blend that floats above the palate, tightly stitched but elegant; will age very well. Fleshy stone fruit and honeysuckle with clear minerality; rich and expressive but not straying out of the lines. Drink 2018-2030 Alcohol 13.5% Paul Jaboulet Aîné, La Chapelle, Hermitage, Rhône 2013 97 £155-£160 (ib) BI, Fine & Rare, Harvey Nichols Hermitage Hill is about the only place on the Rhône’s Left Bank where you find granite along with the classic galet stones. The two terroirs together account for the stunning power of this wine, reflective of the fact that the Jaboulet style is to blend from all their plots. The…

SOUTH AFRICA Swartland: six names to watch David & Nadia David Sadie (viticulture and oenology) and Nadia Sadie (soil science and viticulture) met while studying at the University of Stellenbosch and married in 2009. No relation to Eben of The Sadie Family Wines, they have quickly established themselves among the Swartland’s premier producers. About half the grapes they work with come from the Paardebosch farm (where the winery is based) and the rest is sourced from other Swartland vineyards. Intellego If you’re a natural wine fan, then seek out the wines of Jurgen Gouws. He worked with the maverick Craig Hawkins at Lammershoek before that important Swartland property was sold in 2014, and also boasts harvest experiences at Domaine Stéphane Ogier in Côte-Rôtie in 2010 and at Domaine Matassa in…

34 UNDER £35 Festive buys With even more recommendations this month and a higher price limit for the special occasion, Decanter’s tastings director Christelle Guibert has picked out 34 exciting wines to try over the festive season. All are UK-available and perfect for drinking now Gusbourne, Berry Bros & Rudd English Sparkling Brut, Kent, England, UK 2013 90 £25.95 Berry Bros & Rudd This own-label, made by one of England’s best estates, is the perfect aperitif for kick-starting festivities, with its citrus, apple and white fruit aromas. Mainly Chardonnay, it has spent 18 months on lees, adding a nice creamy mouthfeel, with lemon on the finish. Alc 12% Dopff & Irion, Château de Riquewihr Riesling, Grand Cru Schoenenbourg, Alsace, France 2011 92 £18.80 Tanners A generous wine showing honey, tropical…

The judges Michael Edwards Edwards originally trained in law. In 1968, he joined UK merchant Laytons, and in 2010 he won the Louis Roederer International Wine Book of the Year award for The Finest Wines of Champagne. In 2014, Edwards was made a Confrère of St-Vincent de Vertus, the first non-Champenois to be admitted to this order. He blogs at www.michaelbulles.blogspot.co.uk Simon Field MW Field joined Berry Bros & Rudd in 1998, having spent several years as a chartered accountant in the City of London. In addition to buying the Spanish and fortified ranges, he is also responsible for Champagne, Languedoc-Roussillon, the Rhône and the Loire. He gained his Master of Wine qualification in 2002. Xavier Rousset MS Rousset owns Blandford Comptoir and is part-owner of Cabotte and Greenwich Kitchen,…

The judges Richard Mayson Mayson is the DWWA Regional Chair for Port & Madeira, as well as a winemaker in the Alentejo, and author of The Wines and Vineyards of Portugal, Port and the Douro and Madeira. In 1999, he was made a Cavaleiro of the Confraria do Vinho do Porto in recognition of his services to the Port wine trade, and he also runs his own website at www.richardmayson.com Rod Smith MW Smith is a wine educator, marketer and salesman, based in the south of France, and the founder and director of the Riviera Wine Academy. He started his wine career in 1987 at Oddbins in the UK and later worked for Seagram and Mentzendorff as well as Vins Sans Frontières in Nice. He became a Master of Wine…

RESTAURANTS The Game Bird London By Fiona Beckett If you’ve always wished you were a member of a St James’s gentlemen’s club, yearn no more. You can have a very similar experience at the splendidly idiosyncratic The Game Bird at The Stafford. The hotel is often listed among London’s best-kept secrets – which makes it not very well kept at all. It can be reached through a back alley from Green Park and, it is rumoured, a secret passage from Clarence House, home of the late Queen Mother. The idiosyncrasies start with the tiny American Bar, festooned with model aeroplanes in homage to American and Canadian servicemen, and where you can get a very serviceable gimlet. I expected a classic clubland dining room, but in fact it’s situated in what…

MY PERFECT DAY IN HUNTER VALLEY MORNING Arrive early in Pokolbin, the heart of the wine region, and get coffee from Enzo’s café (www.enzohuntervalley.com.au), a favourite of the local winemaking community. It’s a short drive to Tyrrell’s (see main text, p114), where living history provides a backdrop for the day to follow. Close by is De Iuliis (see main text, p115), with a contemporary cellar door and more experimental wine styles. Then head to Broke for lunch, a relatively remote but pastoral parish of the lower Hunter Valley. AFTERNOON After a glass or two and a market garden al fresco lunch at Margan* winery, it’s a short drive to the progressive estate of Krinklewood (www.krinklewood.com). Rod and Pete Windrim are a father-son wine-growing operation, and the region’s leading biodynamic farmers.…

MY SEATTLE 1 The Nest Under the same ownership as Westward (see below), The Nest at The Thompson Hotel in Belltown is the place where Seattleites go to be seen. Enjoy a glass of Washington State rosé while taking in the breathtaking views of nearby Elliott Bay and Mt Rainer. www.thompsonhotels.com/hotels/ 2 RN74 Started by celebrity chef Michael Mina, this has a mind-blowing wine list and even better French cuisine, all in a convenient location in downtown Seattle. Great steak tartare, oysters and beef fillet with duck-fat fries. www.michaelmina.net/ 3 Wild Ginger One of the best wine lists in the city and delicious, Asian-influenced cuisine. Expert sommeliers will choose the perfect pairing for your black pepper scallops or seven-flavour beef. www.wildginger.net 4 Herbfarm This opulent prix-fixe restaurant in Woodinville has…

Next month in Decanter On sale 3 January Burgundy 2016 Best reds & whites Our expert guide to the new vintage releases Photograph: Frans Lemmens/Alamy Stock Photo PLUS: TASTED & RATED • Cornas, Hermitage & Côte-Rôtie 2015 • New Zealand Chardonnay ALSO... • 30 great New World buys under £30 • Discover the Carignan grape • Producer profile: Gravner For subscription offers, call: +44 (0)330 333 1113 or visit www.decantersubs.com/AYK7 Guess the producer (see p118) Billecart-Salmon: Bill (Clinton), cart, salmon…

Roederer unveils extra-aged Cristal Vinothèque Champagne Louis Roederer is to release just 400 bottles of Vinothèque 1995 – a longer-aged new expression of its luxury Cristal Champagne – along with 200 bottles of Cristal Vinothèque 1995 rosé. ‘The total number of bottles in existence of this “other” Cristal is infinitesimally small,’ said Roederer’s executive vice-president Michel Janneau. ‘But, fear not — it is not without sequel. Other vintages will follow this.’ The Vinothèque brut 1995 has been aged sur lattes for 10 years in the Roederer cellars, before being matured for a further decade under cork. Decanter’s John Stimpfig was among the first to taste the new Champagnes at Roederer’s 241st anniversary dinner in Reims. Stimpfig describes the Vinothèque brut 1995 as ‘supremely seductive and endlessly complex’, while the rosé…

Fine wine price watch Below are the most recent merchant case prices (equivalent 12 x 750ml bottles) for wines that are actively traded among a global network of merchants on Liv-ex, the fine wine market. Liv-ex records transactions between its merchant members in the UK, US, Asia and Europe. All prices are in GBP and exclude sales tax. The numbers in red indicate those prices which have changed since last month. The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The majority of the index consists of Bordeaux wines – a reflection of the overall market – although wines from Burgundy, the Rhône, Champagne and Italy are also included.…

Letter of the month Education is the key WANDERING THE WINE aisle of my local supermarket is a depressing experience. I’m sure fellow readers will also bemoan the lack of diversity on offer. We could criticise supermarkets for a lack of ambition; equally they could retort that they’re only supplying what consumers want. After all, all wine in the UK retailing at over £10 a bottle represents barely 2% of total volume. There is a huge missed opportunity here. Many consumers would experiment, and spend more, if they had the confidence to do so. So how do we get more consumers to drink better? I recently had the honour of becoming a Master of Wine – as a consumer, not a wine professional. My research paper examined the wine education…

Evans’ picks: great existing single-vineyard Riojas Palacios Remondo, Plácet Valtomelloso, Rioja Baja 2014 93 £20 Berry Bros & Rudd Altogether an original. 100% Viura, but nothing like traditional Viura. Carries its oak ageing very lightly to form a fine blend of almonds, white peaches and grapefruit, leading on to a long, savoury finish. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 13.5% Photograph: Heinz Hebeisen/Iberimage Viñedos de Páganos, La Nieta, Rioja Alavesa 2014 96 £76 Fine & Rare What a single vineyard ought to be about: a pure, singing expression of the variety in its place. Dark berry-fruited Tempranillo married with very fine oak – a dense, polished wine with elegant tannins. Just 1.75ha, grown at 550m. Drink 2018-2028 Alc 14.5% Artuke, La Condenada, Rioja Alavesa 2014 94 £47.50 The Sampler Only the second vintage. A…

Frey at a glance Born  Reims, Champagne, 1980 Training  Oenology degree at Institute of Oenology Bordeaux, 1999-2001 Career  Took over Château La Lagune aged 24, after an early career as a showjumper in France’s junior jumping team, and two years working with Denis Dubourdieu’s properties in Bordeaux 2001-2002 Family Daughter Elise (6). Two younger sisters: Céline works in the family property business in Switzerland; designer Delphine has a clothes line, 8Js, with her husband Nico Prost (son of Alain) Hobbies Horse-riding, skiing, mountain marathon runner, pianist…

Eedes’ pick: a Swartland mixed dozen to try AA Badenhorst, White Blend 2015 95 £23-£28 Stone Vine & Sun, Swig Includes 10 different varieties – mainly Chenin Blanc, Roussanne, Verdelho and Clairette. White and yellow fruit, dried herbs and yeasty complexity. Real drive to the palate – super concentration and lively acidity before a pithy finish. Oxidative, yet still very focused. Drink 2018-2020 Alcohol 13.8% David & Nadia, Aristargos 2016 95 £27.50 Chelsea Vintners, Noel Young, Vincisive, Vin Cognito A blend of Chenin, Viognier, Roussanne, Semillon and Clairette sourced from 12 vineyards. Aromatically expressive pear, peach and orange plus some marzipan and a little earthiness. The palate is extraordinarily layered – the flavours come in waves. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 13% Testalonga, El Bandito Cortez 2016 93 £25-£28.50 AG Wines, Exel…

CHRISTMAS WINE & FOOD Christmas with the experts From Whitstable to São Paulo, Melbourne to Montreal, Fiona Beckett grills eight top chefs and food writers for the secrets of their seasonal fare, and the wines they plan to drink with it this year ONE OF THE toughest things about Christmas catering is injecting fresh ideas without discarding favourite family traditions. So where better to seek inspiration than from a chef? We asked eight experienced cooks from around the world what they do to make their Christmas meal special. The dish their family won’t let them drop. The twist they give to a traditional classic – and the wine they’ll be serving. Photographs: Andrew Crowley/The Telegraph (opposite); Chris Laurens/Alamy Stock Photo; Chris Gramly/Getty Images Stephen Harris The Sportsman, Whitstable, Kent No1…

The Decanter guarantee Our buying guide is here to provide you with trusted, independent, expert recommendations on what to buy, what to drink and what to cellar. Each panel tasting is judged by three experienced tasters chosen for their authority in the category of wine being rated. All wines are tasted blind and are pre-poured for judges in flights of eight to 10 wines. Our three experts taste and score their set of wines individually but then discuss their scores together at the end of each flight. Any wines on which scores are markedly different are retasted; however, judges are under no obligation to amend their scores. Judges are encouraged to look for typicity in wines, rewarding those which are true to their region. Prices are…

PANEL TASTING Vintage Champagne With consumers increasingly calling for local individuality and provenance, the market is moving in favour of these more exacting styles, says Michael Edwards Map: Maggie Nelson THE CHAMPAGNE HEARTLAND, 145km east of Paris, has treacherous weather, which brings icy winters, mercurial springs and the threat of destructive frost. Yet climate change, particularly since 2005, has often ushered in warmer, earlier harvests and higher levels of sugar in the grapes, achieving about 10% natural alcohol in the first fermentations, ideal for fine sparkling wine. Yet warming has also brought extremes, particularly in chaotic August rainfall, as in 2010, 2011 and 2017, when the prospect of a great, warm ‘continental’ vintage like 1996 was dashed by downpours for Pinots Noir and Meunier. Quality is variable from year to…

EXPERT’S CHOICE Bordeaux 2015 A generally good vintage has yielded a great choice of wines for the early- to mid-term, as well as some excellent Sauternes. Stephen Brook picks 30 great-value choices  THIS VINTAGE WAS greeted with acclaim, especially by the producers, who had few doubts that it was the best since 2010. A handful preferred their 2014s, but we will need to wait a few years to decide whether that claim may be justified. The critical response to the primeur tastings in 2016 was generally positive too, although there were some disappointments and inconsistencies. ‘At this stage it seems overoptimistic to acclaim 2015 as a truly great year’ It had, after all, been a good growing season in 2015, with a warm dry summer until August, when there was…

TRAVEL: AUSTRALIA YOUR HUNTER VALLEY ADDRESS BOOK HOTELS Crowne Plaza A world-class complex of rooms, suites and cabin-style lodgings. Try the pro 18-hole golf course, a tipple from the brewery and distillery, or relax in the luxury spa. www.crowneplazahuntervalley.com.au Kirkton Park Deluxe, resort-style accommodation set in the lee of stunning mountains and farmland, flanked by lush, English-style country gardens. Proper afternoon tea, too. www.kirktonparkhuntervalley.com.au The Convent The Hunter’s finest boutique hotel – a romantic getaway, for those seeking privacy and quiet luxury, though conveniently located in the heart of Pokolbin. www.convent.com.au RESTAURANTS Bistro Molines The best spot for lunch in the Hunter Valley, set in a charming renovated cottage, with views from the verandah over undulating vineyard and farmland. Food is hearty and French-accented. www.bistromolines.com.au Circa 1876 An icon restaurant,…

Wine Legends Clonakilla, Shiraz-Viognier 2001 Canberra District, New South Wales, Australia A legend because… The style of Shiraz that blends, and usually co-ferments with Viognier is an established, if not historically accurate, tribute to Syrah from Côte-Rôtie. Not everyone admires the style, but most would agree that no Australian winery makes a better version than Clonakilla. Most vintages through the 1990s received high critical acclaim, from show judges and wine guides, and the 2001 came to be regarded as one of Clonakilla’s most outstanding. Looking back The Kirk family arrived in Australia from Ireland in 1968, and three years later the biochemist John Kirk planted a vineyard in Murrumbateman, 40km north of Canberra. The property took its name from the family farm in Ireland’s County Clare. The first commercial wines…