Indholdsfortegnelse for February 2018 i Decanter

An aperitif for anytime Currently enjoying a revival thanks to cocktail culture, Vermouth di Torino has fought to establish its quality credentials. Michaela Morris reports IT’S JUST BEFORE noon and Roberto Bava, CEO of Giulio Cocchi and president of the newly formed Vermouth di Torino Institute, fixes me a drink. He pours equal parts vermouth and soda over ice, topping it with a twist of lemon. ‘The bubbles help bring out the aromas,’ says Bava of this concoction, known in Italy as a vermuttino. Nuances of rhubarb, ginger, liquorice and citrus emerge one by one, none dominating, and an inherent bitterness is curbed by integrated sweetness. I realise I’m suddenly hungry, just as Bava offers some Parmigiano-Reggiano. ‘Vermouth is wine,’ he continues. ‘It goes with chocolate and cheese.’ The umami…

MY PERFECT DAY IN RIPARBELLA MORNING Wake up to birdsong at Casone Ugolino (see p106). Then take a leisurely half-hour drive down the Via Vecchia Aurelia as far as Cecina before branching off on the Strada Comunale di Montescudaio. Climb up into the hills through the town of Riparbella to biodynamic boutique winery Duemani (www.duemani.eu). Be swept away by the expanse of Cabernet Franc while sipping fine yet fresh wines in the just-opened airy tasting room. LUNCH Stone-clad walls and wooden-beamed ceilings greet travellers to Trattoria del Papero (www.trattoriadelpapero.it), in Riparbella. Expect traditional country cooking, made to generations-old recipes. The wine list features local names such as La Regola and Tenuta di Canneto (try the white Sangiovese), plus Bolgheri stalwarts like Guado al Tasso’s Il Bruciato and Le Macchiole’s Paleo.…

BAROLO Morris’ Barolo picks: crus and blends GB Burlotto, Monvigliero 2013 99 £150-£215 Asset, Brunswick Fine Wines & Spirits, Fine & Rare Monvigliero has only recently been hailed as one of Barolo’s finest crus, offering elegance over brawn. In this bottling, stems are included and the cap is submerged for two months. Winemaker Fabio Alessandria calls it an infusion rather than an extraction. It is impossible not to be moved by this utterly lovely, fascinating wine, redolent of cherry, lavender blossom, orange peel and aromatic herbs. The extraordinary lightness of being is almost Pinot Noir-like. Drink 2022-2045 Alcohol 14% Brovia, Vigna Ca’ Mia, Brea 2013 97 £77.60 Asset, Cru World Wine Entirely owned by the Brovia family, the Brea cru is in Serralunga d’Alba. The oldest vines (more than 60…

A food wine, for all palates – western and oriental, Italian and Chinese... Chianti Classico from Fattoria della Aiola is a perfect food wine. Its freshness, light tannins and rich bouquet render it good for pairing with an impressive variety of foods. You can start with traditional Tuscan appetizers, for example, crostini topped with chicken livers, and continue with different kinds of grilled meat, including the king of the Tuscan gastronomy – the Florentine T-bone steak, fantastically succulent and a perfect match for the Chianti Classico Riserva. A Chianti Classico 2014 goes very well with a meat sauce pasta or even pizza, why not? Italian food is no problem, but breaking stereotypes can also bring delicious results – Indian and especially Chinese traditional dishes “marry” harmoniously with Fattoria della Aiola…

Speller’s picks: 10 great Italian Pinot Noirs to try Franz Haas, Pònkler Pinot Noir, Alto Adige 2012 94 £124.99 Liberty Just mid-ruby with orange tinges. Complex red fruit with a hint of beetroot and white pepper. Compact, youthful and with gorgeous, long tannins and just a shimmer of oak. Needs much more time. Drink 2019-2026 Alcohol 14% Podere della Civettaja, Pinot Nero, Tuscany 2014 94 N/A UK +39 339 709 8418 Gorgeous, fragrant, sweet raspberry with a cool, iron edge and hints of garden herbs. Fresh, ripe and well defined raspberry fruit palate with masterfully handled tannins. Finely balanced. Already irresistible, but will age. Drink 2019-2026 Alc 13% Santa Felicità, Cuna, Tuscany 2011 94 £25 Carlo Lotti Just mid-ruby in colour, with a distinct and beautiful nose of ripe and…

Alessandra Piubello’s Top Wines Bergaglio Nicola, Minaia, Gavi DOCG, Piedmont Italy 2016 91 £14 Enotria & Coe Fresh hints of citrus fruit, hawthorn followed by sea and cliff aromas. Pulpy and spirited to the palate, the length demonstrates incisiveness. Pronounced flavour and juicy drink. Drink 2017- 2023 Alcohol 12.5% Broglia, La Meirana, Gavi DOCG, Piedmont, Italy 2016 88 £16 Berkmann Winecellar A classic interpreted with skill and measure, conceived to give soft and elegant pleasantness. Suitable for an international public, its finesse and caressing approach makes it good to enjoy. Drink 2017-2023 Alc 13.5% La Ghibellina, Mainin, Gavi DOCG, Piedmont, Italy 2016 87 £18 Winery Classic Slow olfactory opening, outlining a subtle and delicate profile. The tasty contrast of the steadfast and full structure and the sharp mineral freshness of…

Gibb’s selection: fashionable fizz to try Ferghettina, Riserva 33 Pas Dosé 2009 94 £37.50-£40 Toscanaccio, WoodWinters The 33 in the name refers to this being a blend of three cuvées – Extra Brut, Milledi and Satèn – each making up a third of the final wine. Dry and savoury; richly aromatic and developed, giving complex almond and baked apple. Mouthfilling and vivacious. Drink 2018-2020 Alcohol 12% Ferghettina, Extra Brut 2011 93 £28-£32 Ake & Humphris, Camber Wines, WoodWinters Having spent nearly six years on lees, this 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Nero blend is mellow and suave, leaving you feeling relaxed. Full and round with great density, it offers up savoury, nutty and creamy flavours. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 12% Ca' del Bosco, Annamaria Clementi 2007 92 £100 FortyFive10° Named after the…

DECANTER PROMOTION Cantine San Marzano Interpreters of the Puglian Renaissance Cantine San Marzano epitomises a unique manner of interpreting wine in Puglia, which finds its roots in two main values: respect for tradition and modernity. Respect for a tradition that has age-old origins and still comes to life to this day in the eyes, hands and labour of our vine growers. Modernity for a notion of wine that focuses on the outside world and conviviality, that is always open to new languages and new worlds, and is characterised by a clear stylistic choice, made of clean and elegant tastes. Cantine San Marzano concentrates its efforts on the conservation and meticulous management of old bush vines and has become a synonym for Primitivo across the world and an expression of the…

CHIANTI CLASSICO Gran Selezione revisited Four years on from the first release of Chianti Classico’s top-tier Gran Selezione wines, Monty Waldin assesses the ongoing debate around the classification ‘Gran Selezione can be made only from grapes grown on the property whose name appears on the label’ Giovanni Manetti of the respected Fontodi winery IN FEBRUARY 2014 the first wines labelled under Chianti Classico’s newly created top-level tier of Gran Selezione were released, from the 2010 vintage. Gran Selezione’s introduction was controversial, to say the least, given that no fewer than 19 different iterations of red Tuscan wines bearing the word ‘Chianti’ already existed. The onus, one might think, was on Chianti Classico’s Gran Selezione – funded partly by the wine-growers, but mainly by EU subsidies – to demonstrate…

Prosecco from Collalto A thousand years of history, a thousand years of viticultural passion The Collalto dynasty has been lords of the hills of Prosecco, generation after generation, since 958 AD, over a thousand years ago. Viticulture and winemaking has always been at the heart of this historical association. A passion for winemaking and dedication to the task have meant that this family-run business has a special expertise in the making of Prosecco that has enabled them to ensure the historical continuity of their lands and their identity as producers of premium wines. The heir, or rather heiress, to this unique historic patrimony is Princess Isabella Collalto de Croÿ who has personally taken charge of the vineyards and winery that she inherited from her father in 2007 and now runs…

Vintage guide 2016 A fresh vintage that rewarded careful work in the vineyard, especially at harvest. Elegant and pleasant wines, very drinkable. 2015 A good vintage, with a little rain to refresh a hot summer. Excellent white wines and good reds. Keep. 2014 Winter was cold with average rain, spring was good and summer was hot. Rain in the final phase of ripening reduced the juice concentration. So not a good year for the riservas. Drink soon. 2013 Cold winter without much rain, but abundant rain in spring made up for this. A very hot summer resulted in another great year for the riserva wines. Keep. 2012 A good vintage for some, albeit a little rainy but hot during summer; it was necessary to thin bunches. Good wines. Keep for…

A taste of modern Puglia: Woolf’s 10 wines to try Angiuli Donato, Maccone Spumante Metodo Ancestrale Brut NV 92 £19.60 Tannico 100% Maruggio. Basically a col fondo, with a natural second fermentation in the bottle. Concentrated apricot fruit, with hints of melon and fresh herbs. Thrillingly complex, toasty and lively. Drink 2018-2021 Alcohol 12.5% Morella, Mezzogiorno Bianco 2016 91 £19.75 Berry Bros & Rudd Fiano picked early and fermented spontaneously in a cement egg. Ripe honeydew melon with a hint of almond. Bone-dry on the finish – not something to take for granted with this variety. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 12.5% Cantine Carpentiere, Pietra dei Lupa Nero di Troia, Castel del Monte 2014 95 £16 (2011) Worth Bros This boasts a very pretty, floral nose with subtle red berry fruit and…

BEST CO-OPS Working together Italy’s cooperative wineries may lack the glamour of its single estates, but they offer a wealth of riches for savvy wine lovers. Simon Reilly highlights the names you need to know Photograph: Franco Cogoli/4Corners Images FOR THOSE FREQUENTING the trendy wine bars of east London and Paris searching for their next Instagram post of the latest small-batch, sulphur-free, wax-sealed natural wine made by a bearded winemaker in a shed in the Jura, Italian cooperatives may hold little interest. For the rest of us, there is real value and quality to be enjoyed. Italy’s cooperative movement, or cantina sociale , is as strong as in any wine-growing country in Europe. Producing more than 60% of Italy’s wines, co-ops represent a vital part of the national wine industry…

In brief Pessac-Léognan cru classé Château de Fieuzal will not release any wine from the Bordeaux 2017 harvest, because severe frost damaged too much of its crop. Icy weather during spring affected almost all of its 75ha vineyard. After 35 years at the helm, Baron Eric de Rothschild, 77, is to step down as chairman of Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite). His daughter, Saskia de Rothschild, will take over the role from April 2018. In addition, the group’s president and CEO, Christophe Salin, is stepping down in March 2018 and will hand over to Jean-Guillaume Prats. Warren Winiarski, winemaker and founder of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, has been inducted into California’s Hall of Fame, where he joins the likes of movie director Steven Spielberg and NFL quarterback Jim Plunkett. A…

Andrew Jefford ‘We tasted, against “control” magnums buried alongside the casks’ IT WAS LIKE a funeral – in reverse. A curious crowd stood around the giant pit. Below us, picks were flying. First one remnant appeared in the earth, then another. A mechanical digger was drafted in, to excavate delicately around the remains before trowels and shovels did the fine work. After two hours, they were hoisted out, one by one, and laid out on a cart. The smartphones flashed; the throng gawped. Relax: this is not a murder enquiry (though gentle handling and infinite reverence was still required). What had been excavated were three barriques, filled to the brim with Brouilly 2015 and Côte de Brouilly 2015, and they’d spent the last 18 months buried two metres deep ‘in…

DECANTER PROMOTION MARQUÉS DE RISCAL Impeccable contemporary quality founded on old know-how roots ‘This is not something that we are doing just now, it’s something we have always done: making quality wines’ Founded in the mid-18th Century, Marqués de Riscal is steeped in tradition, being one of the proudest and oldest wineries in Spain, yet it has never rested on its laurels, always keeping an eagle eye on the future; an outlook arguably exemplified no better than its stunning, Frank Gehry-designed winery - a ground-breaker of its time – and it is also being responsible, in 1995, for the introduction of the very first grape-sorting table in Rioja. ‘For Marqués de Riscal, the vine is one of the main keys in achieving unique, fine quality wines with a high degree…

The Gravner difference: six of the best to try Gravner, Riserva Ribolla, Collio 1998 96 £200 (150cl) Christopher Keiller, Raeburn Only 500 bottles produced from some of the oldest vines, magnums only, bottled in 2010. Some botrytis notes and a beautiful vinous nose, a touch of coffee and meat stock. The sublime texture and limpid clarity of the wine is just stunning. Drink 2018-2025 Alcohol 13.5% Gravner, Ribolla, Venezia Giulia 2007 94 £52 Fine & Rare, Hedonism, Raeburn Immediately involving, with a slightly purer, less botrytised character than the 2008. Complex phenolic characters with apricot and orange, marmalade-like quality of bittersweetness. Wrapped in more complex earth and salt flavours and spices too. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 13.5% Gravner, Breg Bianco, Venezia Giulia 2008 93 £52 Hedonism, Raeburn Glowing amber/gold colour. So…

DECANTER PROMOTION MARTINI Masters of Spumante Asti and Prosecco to make you sit up Imagine you’re standing in a winery. Around you on all sides rise steep hills covered in vines, and the vineyards are divided into small parcels patched on to the slopes. This is a region, you might infer, of small-scale growers devoted to their craft, and of a winemaker who buys their best grapes and uses the best of modern technology to express their heritage. The winery is at Santo Stefano Belbo, and it belongs to Martini & Rossi. Martini is the number one global Italian sparkling wine brand, sold in 100 countries worldwide, but its roots are here, in the vineyards. Martini’s Asti DOCG comes from this pale soil and bright sunshine; its Prosecco is made…

30 great New World buys under £30 We asked Peter Richards MW to scour the New World regions and pick out the best value wines he’s come across of late. The resulting selection reveals some of the most intriguing, exciting and mould-breaking winemaking in the world today  WHAT DEFINES ‘NEW World’? And what do we as wine lovers want and expect of it? These two questions merit pondering because the answers aren’t obvious and they challenge a fair few preconceptions. ‘If the New World can be characterised by an emotion, it is surely an exhilarating sense of discovery’ Peter Richards MW Of course, on one level, the New World is all those territories outside Europe. But what about China, home to some of the most ancient civilisations on earth? The…

STEVEN SPURRIER’S fine wine world Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Man of the Year hand-picks fine wines for drinking now and recommends others to lay down, all priced from £25 upwards From the cellar Rocca di Montegrossi, Vin Santo A vertical tasting of Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi’s Vin Santo del Chianti Classico from his first 1995 vintage to the recent 2007 has left a long-lasting impression. He inherited the vin santo tradition from his mother and has perfected it by creating a well-ventilated drying room where bunches of grapes are hung on rails, allowing botrytis to develop – essential to give the wine complex aromas as well as the glycerine that brings softness and roundness to the palate. After Christmas, when the grapes have lost up to 70% of their…

PANEL TASTING New Zealand Chardonnay It’s all a question of balance, says Rebecca Gibb MW. Chardonnay may have been out of the NZ spotlight of late, but the wines are enjoying a revival of interest Map: Maggie Nelson FOR A HEADY decade, Chardonnay was the darling of the New Zealand wine industry. The prolific German cross Müller-Thurgau was finally toppled from the top spot in 1993, following a government-sponsored vine-pull scheme encouraging growers to uproot such overproductive undesirables, and Chardonnay became the country’s most-planted variety. It held Sauvignon Blanc at bay until as late as 2003, when New Zealand was engulfed by a flood of green yet tropical wines. Sauvignon Blanc has continued to be the cause of all the chatter (good and bad), while Chardonnay producers have quietly been…

EXPERT’S CHOICE A modern taste of Georgia Its ancient qvevri winemaking traditions are now inspiring producers the world over. Simon Woolf selects the best of both traditional and new in the former Soviet state JANCIS ROBINSON MW once coined the phrase ‘the new Old World’ to describe emerging wine nations in Europe and Eurasia. None fits this definition better than the republic of Georgia. Boasting one of the world’s oldest winemaking cultures, Georgia only recently modernised and resuscitated an industry brought to its knees after the break-up of the USSR. A clutch of private companies established in the late 1990s now dominate production. Their focus tends towards squeaky-clean, modern styles from the more popular indigenous grape varieties, plus the semi-sweet bottlings so adored by Russian customers. While the grape varieties…

MY PERFECT DAY IN VALLE DE GUADALUPE MORNING After ‘the best breakfast in the world’ at La Cocina de Doña Esthela*, visit the hip Hacienda La Lomita (www.lomita.mx). Winemaker Gustavo González applies Napa know-how to his old-vine Grenache Págano; he also heads biodynamic sister winery Finca La Carrodilla. Afterwards, stop by Torres Alegre y Familia (Calle No/52, Ejido el Porvenir), a family-run garagiste winery that experiments with 60-year-old vines. Victor Torres Alegre was the first Mexican to take an oenology PhD. LUNCH Refuel at Familia Samarin (Calle Principal 276), an authentic Russian diner dating to 1905 that turns out fine borscht and chipotle almonds – a nod to the valley’s migrant past; also drop by its tiny wine museum and local produce store. Or, dine al fresco at Malva*; experimental…

READERS’ QUERIES Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge Email: editor@decanter.com. Post: The Editor, Decanter, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London SE1 0SU, UK What is struck match? I’ve recently seen ‘struck match’ used in tasting notes, in a positive sense. I understood it to be a fault in wine. Can you tell me what it is and how it differs from reduction? Tim Seo, France Andy Howard MW replies: The term ‘struck match’ is often found in descriptions of white wines, and most commonly those made from the Chardonnay grape. This style is often associated with some great white Burgundy domaines such as Coche-Dury and Leflaive, but can also be enjoyed at a more accessible price point – in Shaw…

Tasting notes decoded Jammy The term jammy is usually applied to red wines that are low in acidity but high in alcohol, such as Zinfandel or Shiraz. It describes ripened or cooked fruit, in which the pungency and sweetness is intensified compared to fresh fruit flavours. Jammy is associated with red fruits such as strawberries and raspberries, as well as darker fruits such as blackcurrants and blackberries — essentially fruits you can imagine making into jam. As a fault, it can express poor growing conditions in which the vines are overexposed to heat and sunlight. This causes the grapes to ripen too quickly, and the resultant wines can develop a cloying fruit sweetness with a flabby mouthfeel. New York-based wine writer Robert Haynes-Peterson notes that Pinot Noir wines are most…

Market watch Burgundy demand soaring The region’s appeal continues apace, with cult domaines still the auction stars. But affording them will be even harder following the frost-hit 2016 vintage Compiled by Laura Seal EXPERTS BELIEVE THE ‘relentless rise’ of Burgundy shows no signs of abating, but lower yields in 2016 (see p18) could make it even harder for investors to acquire the most renowned names. ‘While 2016 was dominated by a long-awaited bounce in Bordeaux sales, the star of 2017 was undoubtedly Burgundy,’ said Liv-ex director, Justin Gibbs. Burgundy’s share of trade on the Liv-ex platform rose from 8% in 2016 to 12.5% in 2017. Predictably, fine-wine heavyweight Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) leads the way, consistently among the top lots in wine auctions worldwide. Sotheby’s auctions in New York,…

Fine wine price watch Below are the most recent merchant case prices (equivalent 12 x 750ml bottles) for wines that are actively traded among a global network of merchants on Liv-ex, the fine wine market. Liv-ex records transactions between its merchant members in the UK, US, Asia and Europe. All prices are in GBP and exclude sales tax. The numbers in red indicate those prices which have changed since last month. The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The majority of the index consists of Bordeaux wines – a reflection of the overall market – although wines from Burgundy, the Rhône, Champagne and Italy are also included.…

Morris picks her five favourite vermouths Carpano, Antica Formula Vermouth 96 £14-£21/37.5cl-£39 Harvey Nichols, Master of Malt, Ocado, Theatre of Wine A sweet, rich vermouth infused with vanilla, this is sumptuously textured and offers enticing notes of raisin, macerated orange, tea, carob and nutmeg. Finishes with balancing bitterness and fennel. Alcohol 16.5% Cocchi, Dopo Teatro Amaro, Vermouth di Torino 95 £28-£29 Master of Malt, Twenty One A higher proportion of bittering cinchona is offset by additional sugar for a deftly balanced vermouth. Flavours of rhubarb, sarsaparilla and cherry bark lead to a minty, peppery finish. Alc 16% Pio Cesare, Vermouth di Torino 95 £39.99 Cambridge Wine, Davy’s, Handford, Portland Wine Co, The Whisky Exchange Chardonnay, Moscato Bianco macerated with more than 25 botanicals and sweetened with burnt sugar. Candied orange,…

WHERE TO STAY, EAT AND SHOP ACCOMMODATION Podere Castellaccio A selection of beautifully appointed suites and apartments nestled in woodland, with verdant views as far as the Mediterranean at this promising winery. www.podereilcastellaccio.it Casone Ugolino A former tobacco factory now turned into comfortable accommodation, on-site eateries and a wine museum. www.casoneugolino.com Villa Le Luci Sumptuous and stylish, this bed and breakfast is the perfect getaway, on the edge of Castagneto Carducci. www.villaleluci.it Relais Le Fornacelle Contemporary Tuscan country-style apartments with an enticing pool for a hot Bolgheri summer’s day. www.relaislefornacelle.com Tombolo Talasso Resort Opt for the gourmet and relax package at this high-end spa resort by the sea – or just pamper yourself with a spa day. www.tombolotalasso.it Ceralti Unwind at Ceralti wine estate with spacious apartments (and even a…

Morris’ Barolo picks: crus and blends continued... E Pira & Figli, Chiara Boschis, Via Nuova 2013 95 £49.40-£65 Asset, Christopher Keiller, Crump Richmond Shaw, Exel, Fine & Rare, GP Brands, Handford , Lay & Wheeler Previously a single cru, as of 2009 Via Nuova is a blend of vineyards. The wine spends two years in a mix of French oak botti and barriques (20% Oddero, Vigna Rionda Riserva 2007 94 N/A UK www.odero.it Vignarionda MGA is a rounded hill with compact grey marl and layers of sandstone. It is truly among Barolo’s greatest crus. As it can be austere and unrelenting in its youth, Oddero ages theirs for 10 years before release. The sunny and hot 2007 vintage gives a fairly forward, fleshy version with savoury leather, tobacco, pressed flowers,…

DECANTER PROMOTION BARBERA D’ASTI AND FRIENDS Red and white native varieties from the Monferrato region in Piedmont Barbera d’Asti DOCG is the leading red wine from 169 towns in the provinces of Asti and Alessandria in north-east Italy’s Piedmont region. The Barbera grape has thrived in these sub-Alpine conditions for centuries. The surrounding cities of Milan and Turin, and the important port of Genoa on the Mediterranean coast have made this Italy’s most prosperous area economically, and this prosperity in turn provided local winegrowers with a ready market, and encouraged them to invest in Barbera’s potential. Barbera became known locally as “the people’s wine”. Winemakers who make Barbera love it too, because it is easy to work with in both vineyard and winery. As a wine, Barbera’s key characteristics are…

Garner’s picks: best food-friendly Amarones to seek out Villa Spinosa, Guglielmi di Jago, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007 95 N/A UK www.villaspinosa.it Classic, traditionally styled Amarone that reveals ethereal perfumes of dried fruits and developing tertiary notes, even a hint of incense. Fleshy and earthy on the palate, which has great freshness and a long, gentle finish defined by notes of woodsmoke and black pepper. This is a blend from two vineyards lying on either side of the Monte Masua ridge. Drink 2018-2030 Alcohol 16% Rubinelli Vajol, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2011 93 £44.99 Wimbledon Wine Cellars Sleek, stylish and balanced Amarone; scented with great freshness and succulent fruit characters. From south-facing slopes surrounding the winery in San Pietro in Cariano and made in a drier, food-friendly style. A hugely…

Chianti by numbers Chianti is made up of eight regions: Chianti, Chianti Colli Aretini, Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Colli Senesi, Chianti Colline Pisane, Chianti Montalbano, Chianti Montespertoli and Chianti Rùfina, each of which has a riserva category – so that’s 16 possible names to differentiate between on your wine label already – plus a single Chianti Superiore category (17), plus three types of Chianti Classico: normale, Riserva and now Gran Selezione (20). The 71,800ha of the Chianti Classico zone covers nine towns: the entire territories of Castellina in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, Greve in Chianti and Radda in Chianti and parts of the territories of Barberino Val d’Elsa, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Poggibonsi, San Casciano Val di Pesa and Tavarnelle Val di Pesa.…

Hulme’s dream dozen Aglianico wines Photograph: Antonio Capone/4Corners Images Feudi di San Gregorio, Serpico, Irpinia, Taurasi 2009 96 £40.93-£45 (2010) Dulwich Vintners, Wineman Grapes come from the ancient Dal Re vineyard with vines aged between 120 and 180 years. Vividly impressive – the powerful Aglianico is tamed by a sophisticated structure. A nervy, vibrant and edgy style. Drink 2019-2030 Alcohol 14% Mastroberardino, Naturalis Historia, Taurasi 2007 96 £42.95 Eurowines Mastroberardino’s flagship, single-vineyard wine from 40-year-old-plus vines and Aglianico at its sophisticated best. Roast coffee beans, smoky bonfire and nuanced, floral, violet aromas announce its distinctively volcanic personality. Saturated dark fruits, long and enticing. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 13.5% Quintodecimo, Vigna Quintodecimo, Taurasi Riserva 2012 96 £101.09 Justerini & Brooks There is a brightness and clarity to the aromas and flavours of…

DECANTER PROMOTION Torre Mora One of Etna’s finest estates Torre Mora is one of the specialist estates belonging to Tenute Piccini, a Tuscan company owned by the eponymous family that has been committed to the wine industry for four generations and which is today one of the most distinctive, dynamic and innovative in Italy. Mount Etna is Europe’s largest active volcano, in almost in a constant state of activity. The volcanic soil, the influence of the sea, the predominance of ungrafted old vines and the alberello bush vine training system create the perfect terroir for unique wines. Inspired by his passion for terroir driven wines, Mario Piccini decided to invest in Torre Mora boutique winery to craft high quality wines. Watchwords are elegance rather than power, big barrel botti rather…

John Stimpfig ‘Some producers had gone overboard on reductive techniques’ THIS MONTH’S PANEL tasting of New Zealand Chardonnay (see p87) served up some tellingly critical comments. Somewhat unusually though, there were no negative comments whatsoever about high alcohol levels or too much oak. So what did our experts take exception to? Well, quite a lot. Too many wines lacked varietal character and tasted more like Riesling or aged Sauvignon. Rebecca Gibb MW also felt that some producers had gone overboard on reductive winemaking techniques. In addition, our experts agreed that a number of the Chardonnays they were tasting either ‘lacked ripeness’ or were ‘overly citrus’. If this sounds a bit like déjà vu, let me refer you back to our December 2017 issue panel tasting, in which cool-climate Australian Chardonnay…

Vintage preview Burgundy 2016 Devastating frost made its mark on this vintage, slashing yields and resulting in uneven quality. But the best examples are still worth buying, says William Kelley, especially premiers and grands crus reds, and value wines from Côte Chalonnaise Photograph: Mike Prior. With thanks to Hedonism Wines (www.hedonism.co.uk), The Wine Society (www.thewinesociety.com) and Hatch Mansfield (www.hatchmansfield.com) for the loan of the bottles ‘Generalising about a vintage is always a challenge, but in 2016 it is close to impossible’ ALONG THE COTE d’Or, no one could recall anything like it. Burgundy is no stranger to frost, but the night of 26-27 April was unique, striking not just the low-lying regional and village appellations, but many celebrated grands and premiers crus upslope. Vineyards that normally escape unscathed were razed.…

Taking the plunge City trader, doctor, hobbyist, lifelong dreamer: the winemaking bug can strike anyone, whether or not they have an existing connection to the industry. Anne Krebiehl MW meets career-changers and risk-takers around the world ‘It was a huge decision. You leave a job that is secure and well-paid to do something you have no track record in at all’ Ray Nadeson NOT EVERYONE IS born into a life of wine. Yet for many, making wine is living the dream. Some fulfil their dream once they have made enough money in another business: they buy land or a winery and hire a winemaker. But we sought out those who have done it the hard way, who were not exceptionally rich, who were nowhere near retirement, who turned their lives…

Brook’s pick: five to try from Cain Cain Five, Spring Mountain, Napa Valley 2013 93  N/A UK www.cainfive.com 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, supported by 22% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot. On the nose this is unsurprisingly youthful, with rich, dense black fruit aromas that are opulent without being overblown. Initially rich and silky, this also shows a good deal of spice and even tar. Despite ample ripe tannins and fair acidity that give good structure, this has a graceful character. Long finish. Drink 2020-2042 Alcohol 14.5% Cain Five, Spring Mountain, Napa Valley 2012 93 £92.60 Justerini & Brooks Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for half the blend, the supporting characters being 29% Merlot, 8% each Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec. In striking contrast to the…

25 UNDER £25 Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s tastings director Christelle Guibert has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK for £25 or less Mas de Daumas Gassac, Rosé Frizant, France 2016 90 £19.99 Buon Vino, DVine Cellars, Les Caves de Pyrene, The Grape Store Approachable delicate summer fruit aromas. Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with a dash of Petit Manseng and sourced from the domaine’s younger vines. Very refreshing dry palate with a fine and lively mousse. The perfect alternative to NV Champagne as an aperitif. Alc 11.5% Fernanda Cappello, Traminer Aromatico, Friuli Grave, Italy 2016 91 £9.95 Tanners Traminer Aromatico is better known as Gewürztraminer, so expect…

PANEL TASTING The results Nelson and Canterbury were the pick of the regions; elsewhere our panel would like to have seen more of the fruit and less of the winemaking, reports Amy Wislocki IT WAS ONE of those tastings at which our experts arrived with high expectations, and ended the day feeling a little short-changed. ‘New Zealand has a fantastic climate. The country’s top wines have shown that its producers can consistently make cool-climate Chardonnay that is classic and fine, restrained and ageworthy,’ said Rebecca Gibb MW. So why did tasters leave feeling disappointed? The main complaint seemed to centre on a lack of varietal character. ‘Before this tasting, I had a clear idea of what New Zealand Chardonnay is stylistically,’ said Roger Jones. ‘I thought of it as modern,…

YOUR BAJA CALIFORNIA ADDRESS BOOK ACCOMMODATION Adobe Guadalupe Dutch expat Tru Miller’s initial six-room project expanded to include a winery, food truck, equine breeding centre, restaurant and underground tasting room while retaining a home-away-from-home ambience. www.adobeguadalupe.com Cuatro Cuatros, El Tigre Pitch up under luxury canvas at this 13-tent glamping complex in Valle de Guadalupe’s west. Enjoy an in/out rain shower and stunning sunset vistas from the hillside bar. You can sample the maritime Sauvignon Blanc at the minimalist winery. www.cabanascuatrocuatros.com.mx Hacienda Guadalupe In the hills, 16 spacious colonial-style rooms are set among vineyards and bougainvillea overlooking the valley. Sample the Melchum Tempranillo or house brew Liebre IPA with roast lamb at the hacienda’s restaurant. The Vid y el Vino wine museum is opposite. www.haciendaguadalupe.com Hotel Coral & Marina, Ensenada A…

Wine Legends M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon, Ermitage 1991 Rhône, France A legend because… In 1988 Michel Chapoutier took control of this distinguished Rhône producer in a kind of family coup. He soon made radical changes, such as throwing out ancient chestnut barrels and moving rapidly towards biodynamic farming. Another innovation was the release of very limited luxury cuvées from top appellations, such as white and red Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, all from very old vines. Some of these wines were aged entirely in new oak. They made an immediate impression and were hailed as among the greatest wines of the Rhône Valley. Looking back This was a period of flux at Chapoutier, with Michel making his mark with great energy, not to say ruthlessness. By the late 1980s its big,…

DECANTER PROMOTION GAVI Profile of Piedmont’s premium white on the export market Located on the south-eastern edge of Piedmont, the Gavi wine-producing area lies close to the Ligurian Apennines bordering on the province of Genoa, a forty-minute drive from Genoa itself and one hour from Milan. In this so suitable corner for white wine production in an area famous for its reds (there are actually some interesting similarities between Barolo and Gavi: 11 municipalities, the same vein of soil - Serravalle marl - , single varietal - Cortese here, Nebbiolo there - and the same inclination for excellence), a rather peculiar encounter occurs. The wind, coming off the sea just thirty kilometres away, blows as far as the Apennine snows, caressing the villages, castles, hills, woods and vineyards, donating an…

ICON WINES Italian icons you’ve never heard of Some of Italy’s best wines remain firmly under the radar for wine lovers. Richard Baudains finds out why, and shines a light on names that deserve icon status WHAT EXACTLY MAKES a wine iconic is tricky to pin down, because the epithet does not denote any intrinsic quality but rather a status that may be acquired for a variety of reasons. Greatness clearly has something to do with it, but it is not exactly the same thing. For example, there are many great Barolos but few truly iconic ones, which suggests that being unique, special and different in some way plays a part in being iconic. At the same time, in the literal meaning of the word, iconic wines are a representation;…

Brook’s pick: Emilia Romagna’s versatile range of styles Cantina della Volta, DDR Lambrusco di Modena Spumante 2009 91 POA Bancroft A remarkable metodo classico Lambrusco, which is disgorged after spending 84 months on the lees. The nose is brisk, floral and stylish, with juicy raspberry fruit that’s mirrored on the palate. Bright and concentrated with a good weight of fruit. Long too, with a slightly bitter yet bracing dry finish. Drink 2018-2021 Alcohol 13% Paltrinieri, Leclisse, Lambrusco di Sorbara Frizzante 2016 90 £13.76 Tannico An exquisite Sorbara, this is light pink in colour and boasts a very fragrant nose of strawberry. On the palate it’s fresh but intense, jazzy and lifted, with finesse and persistence. A May afternoon in a bottle. Drink 2018-2019 Alc 11.5% Venturini Baldini, Rubino del Cerro,…

Waldin’s top Gran Selezione wines to try Fontodi, Vigna del Sorbo 2013 94 £49.99 Hedonism, Liberty, WoodWinters Giovanni Manetti used to add 10% Cabernet Sauvignon to this. He grubbed those vines up, leaving his flagship a pure, richly scented 100% Sangiovese with moreish, crackling depth. Organic. Drink 2018-2025 Alcohol 14.5% Isole e Olena 2010 94 £197.99 Liberty, WoodWinters Paolo de Marchi’s blend of 80% Sangiovese, 12% Cabernet Franc and 8% Syrah from a five-star vintage. Very rich, very young (still) and very layered. Open it and have one glass a night for six nights in a row to see how its wave-like depth changes over time. Drink 2018-2026 Alc 14.5% Castello di Volpaia, Il Puro 2011 92 £60 Millésima UK From a relatively cool site in Chianti Classico’s high centre,…

Waldin’s top 12 Brunello di Montalcinos Salicutti, Piaggione Riserva 2011 99 £52.60 Goedhuis & Co Sangiovese heaven. Ethereal, powerful, elegant, intense, balanced and very refreshing – a supreme expression of how grape, place and people can combine in true harmony. A perfect wine with a near-perfect score. Organic. Drink 2018-2040 Alcohol 14.5% Pian dell’Orino 2009 97 £62.59-£74.99 BI, Les Caves de Pyrene A really hot year, but no sense of baked, jammy fruit here. Smooth and intense; you really get a sense of the underlying power of southern Montalcino’s terroir. Biodynamic. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 14% Podere San Giuseppe, Stella di Campalto Riserva 2010 97 £125 Atlas Fine Wines, Fine & Rare, Handford, WoodWinters A sun-trap Sangiovese from the wilder, warmer, south side of town. Lightly coloured, powerfully perfumed and intensely,…

Six names to look out for Abbazia di Propezzano Paolo de Strasser’s wines are giving a new lease of life to Propezzano Abbey, where wine has been made since the sixth century. I love the super-modern look of the wines and even more the fact that he likes pushing the boundaries with his winemaking. Although he specialises in single-varietal wines made from indigenous grapes, be sure to try his blend of Falanghina, Pecorino, Passerina and Trebbiano fermented in amphorae. Emidio Pepe Emidio Pepe’s wines have iconic status not only in the Colline Teramane and Abruzzo but worldwide. An artisanal producer par excellence, he cultivates his grapes biodynamically and makes wines as naturally as possible, with no added yeast or sulphur. What is amazing is the ability of these wines to…

Hulme’s top Abruzzo whites and reds to try Emidio Pepe, Pecorino, Colli Aprutini 2O15 92 £114 Buon Vino Natural winemaking at its best. This evolves beautifully in the glass, revealing bruised apple, honey and Champagne-like aromas. Then come contrasting green herb and candied lemon peel flavours; round, soft and creamy texture with a long, salty finish. Flows beautifully across the palate. Drink 2018-2025 Alcohol 14% Abbazia di Propezzano, Pecorino, Colli Aprutini 2016 90 POA Swig Medium-deep lemon colour, bright aromas of white flowers and apples, bright and breezy on the palate, with juicy acidity and a long, savoury, salty finish. A very stylish wine from a producer who combines the best traditions with a modern twist. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 13.5% Strappelli, Soprano Pecorino, Colli Aprutini 2016 90 N/A UK www.cantinastrappelli.it…

EXPERT’S CHOICE Top-tier Prosecco Producers have the option to label their top Prosecco with a village of origin, but are these ‘rive’ wines always a guarantee of quality? Richard Baudains finds out SINCE 2009, PRODUCERS of Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore – the top-drawer DOCG Prosecco from the hills – have had the option of declaring the village of origin of their wines with the phrase ‘Rive di’. Every village which conforms to the basic wine-growing standards of the DOCG zone (there are 43) can claim its sub-denomination. In the highly democratic division of the area devised by the producers’ consorzio, all rive appear equal, but some might be more equal than others. Are the rive always a guarantee of top quality? And do they really reflect a special sense of…

Reilly’s dozen: best of the Italian co-ops Centopassi, Rocca di Pietra Longa Grillo, Sicily 2015 94 £16 Astrum, Bottle Apostle, Field & Fawcett, Planet of the Grapes, The 10 Cases 100% Grillo, a grape usually used to make marsala. Floral, peachy aromas and a Chablis-like minerality, finishing with an apple-tinged saline bite. It’s remarkable what altitude can do. Drink 2018-2025 Alcohol 13% Cantina Terlan, Terlaner, Alto Adige 2016 93 £17-£19.90 Widely available via UK agent Astrum Wine Cellars Always impressive and richly textured. Stone fruits and bitter orange aromas lead to a grapefruit palate and tingly, salty minerals on the Aperol Spritz-like finish. Drink 2018-2024 Alc 13.5% Cantina Bolzano, Pinot Bianco, South Tyrol, Alto Adige 2016 91 £12.05-£16.71 Mondial, Stannary St Wine Co Essence of tinned mandarin oranges. A lovely…

Letter of the month Getting what you pay for AS A RETIRED wine-shop owner, I could not agree more with Elin McCoy’s column on wine as luxury brand (October 2017 issue). The thing I hated most was when a winery or distributor wanted a super-luxury price for an average-to-good wine, and when I complained replied: ‘there are only x cases’. When I said I didn’t care whether there were x or 100x cases, and that the quality should determine the price, some wineries got very upset. Here in Oregon some upstart wineries with no track record want premium prices for their wines when other established wineries are still offering their entry-level wines at half the price. Why should anyone subsidise a fabulous tasting room costing millions, if the quality is…

VINTAGE PREVIEW: BURGUNDY 2016 Kelley’s pick of 2016 The 2016s are bottled in January 2018, hence prices and alcohols are not yet set. Contact specialist merchants for allocations or to enquire about their en primeur tastings. The following 101 recommendations are a selection of top-scoring and great-value wines from more than 1,000 barrel samples tasted in October and November 2017. Access all the full notes and scores from Decanter.com/premium Chablis Domaine François Raveneau, Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru 94 Superb, bursting from the glass with complex apple blossom, tangerine, confit citrus, peach and intriguing mint. On the palate, the wine is intensely concentrated, stony and complete, with first-class cut and grip through the long, flavourful finish. Drink 2022-2035 Domaine Louis Michel, Séchet 1er Cru 93 Fabulously complex citrus…

Risk-takers and career-changers: a taste of success Hinterland, Sacrament Méthode Traditionelle, Prince Edward County, Ontario, Canada 2011 92 N/A UK www.hinterlandwine.com Yeasty hints of freshly baked brioche appear first on this lovely sparkling blend of half Pinot Noir, half Chardonnay. Honey notes play on the dry, graceful palate, supported by super-fine, creamy fizz. Provides pleasure and sophisticated refreshment. Drink 2018-2030 Alcohol 12% La Distesa, Gli Eremi, Marche, Italy 2015 93 £33 Noble Fine Liquor Notes of salty, savoury yeast blend with bruised apples on the nose of this concentrated, single-vineyard Verdicchio. The dry saltiness attains an almost soy-like spice on the palate and draws you in. This is slightly funky but oh-so earthy, visceral and moreish. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 13.5% Lethbridge, Between Five Bells, Australia 2015 92 £24 Caviste Hazelnut…

Carignan revival: Hudin’s picks from France & Spain Ferrer Bobet, Selecció Especial Vinyes Velles, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain 2013 95  £67.25 H2Vin A rich blend of red and dark cherry fruit with a touch of prune, chocolate, fresh mint, cut herbs and eucalyptus. Very fresh and vibrant fruit on the palate, plus excellent balance and energy with a lengthy finish. Drink 2018-2024 Alcohol 14.5% Vall Llach, Mas de la Rosa, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain 2015 95 N/A UK www.vallllach.com Complex nose of fresh red cherry fruit with abundant violet floral notes, fennel, garrigue and many layers of wild herbs and floating orchard blossoms. In the mouth it’s incredibly delicate and structured, revealing spicy herbal notes that leave a lengthy, light dusting of cocoa on the finish. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 16% Celler l’Encastell,…

Santa Rita – a timeline 1850 Carmen, Chile’s oldest winery, is founded 1880 Santa Rita founded in Alto Jahuel 1983 Cecilia Torres starts at Santa Rita 1987 Santa Rita acquires Viña Carmen 1989 First Casa Real vintage released 1994 Carmen produces Chile’s first organic wine 1996 Andrés Ilabaca starts at Santa Rita 1996 Carmen becomes first Chilean winery to label and sell Carmenère 2005 Sebastian Labbé joins Carmen 2014 WiSe replantation in Alto Jahuel starts 2017 More than 230ha replanted so far 2017 Torres retires; Ilabaca becomes director of technical research; Labbé (above) becomes premium winemaker; Emily Faulconer joins as Carmen winemaker 2018 The final replanting of 150ha planned 2020 First harvest of new vines expected…

The Decanter guarantee Our buying guide is here to provide you with trusted, independent, expert recommendations on what to buy, what to drink and what to cellar. Each panel tasting is judged by three experienced tasters chosen for their authority in the category of wine being rated. All wines are tasted blind and are pre-poured for judges in flights of eight to 10 wines. Our three experts taste and score their set of wines individually but then discuss their scores together at the end of each flight. Any wines on which scores are markedly different are retasted; however, judges are under no obligation to amend their scores. Judges are encouraged to look for typicity in wines, rewarding those which are true to their region. Prices are…

Decanter PANEL TASTING Northern Rhône 2015 Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage and Cornas are Syrah powerhouses, expressing themselves to their utmost in this dream vintage. Matt Walls compares and contrasts them Map: Maggie Nelson THIS TIME LAST year I asked Philippe Guigal, the kingpin of Côte-Rôtie, if he could compare 2015 to another year. He had to reach back well beyond his own winemaking experience. ‘My dad would say 1961,’ Guigal replied, ‘and he also talks about the 1945s and the 1929s.’ Northern Rhône winemakers tend to be self-effacing when describing their wines, but while tasting the 2015s from barrel, superlatives flowed across the region. It was a hot year but not baking, dry but not parched, with only the youngest vines suffering water stress. With no pressure from poor weather or rot…

The judges Melanie Brown Rebecca Gibb MW Resident in the UK for more than 10 years, Brown began her own specialist wine retailer, The New Zealand Cellar, online in 2014, setting up a wine bar and shop in Brixton soon after. Brown and Having spent six years living in New Zealand, Gibb has recently returned to her native northeast England. While in New Zealand, she became a Master of Wine, graduating top of her class and her team curate tailored NZ wine events, and she aspires to create a unique wine buying experience showcasing the ever-evolving range of New Zealand wine to UK consumers.  winning the Madame Bollinger medal for excellence in tasting. Her first book, The Wines of New Zealand, will be published in 2018 as part of the…