Indholdsfortegnelse for Aug-2018 i Decanter

Around the wine world Pinot Noir grapes could be allowed for pink Prosecco Members of the Prosecco DOC Consorzio have backed a proposal to devise rules for making rosé by permitting red wine in the blend. Currently Prosecco DOC wines can be produced with a maximum of 15% Pinot Noir, on the condition that it is used solely for white wine production. If the proposal is given final approval, winemakers would be allowed to mix the signature Prosecco grape, Glera, with Pinot Noir to create Prosecco rosé within the DOC. This move acknowledges two of the fastest-growing trends of the wine world, especially in the key UK market. ‘Today is the right time to produce Prosecco rosé,’ said Stefano Zanette, president of Prosecco DOC. ‘Pinot Noir is a noble grape…

Letter of the month The Bordeaux blend will adapt ELIN MCCOY’S ARTICLE on climate change (Bordeaux guide, July 2018) referred to shifting the mix of grapes and introducing ‘new’ ones. I see this as a cause for hope rather than trepidation. Bordeaux has an advantage over Burgundy in that it has always been made as a blend. This is key to its success in maintaining both quality and supply, despite extreme weather and disease. I welcome the chance to return to grapes that were traditionally used (such as Malbec and Carménère) but fell out of use following phylloxera. Bordeaux winemakers have always been flexible and adapted to the changing terroir around them. I look forward to the champion Cabernet-Malbec-Petit Verdot wines of 2030! Edmund Brandt, London…

What I’ve been drinking this month I adore Napa Cabernet, but the chance to drink it comes all too seldom. A recent bottle of Mount Veeder Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 was gorgeous on opening (black cherry and incense, soft-textured but textured nonetheless, with great finesse and purity) but even better on day two: always a good sign in a young red. The air helped it to fill out and deepen, as if it had spent the night pumping light weights on a bench press. It’s high-grown (that finesse of tone) but truly Napa in its overall sweetness and allure.…

Jura at a glance Area under vine 1,950ha Production 11 million bottles Wineries 230 Soils Different types of marl (blue, grey, red, black) on limestone strata dating from the Jurassic era (150 million years ago) Vineyard altitude 200m-400m Climate Continental Average rainfall 1,200mm Average sunshine hours 1,800 Main grapes White Chardonnay 43%, Savagnin 23% Red Poulsard 14%, Trousseau 11%, Pinot Noir 7%, others 2% Appellations Arbois, Château-Chalon, L’Etoile, Côtes du Jura, Crémant du Jura, Macvin du Jura, Marc du Jura Wine styles Dry white, red, rosé, sparkling, vin jaune, vin de paille…

Anson’s view: tasting the Château d’Esclans range Château d’Esclans, Garrus, Côtes de Provence 2016 97 £58 (ib)-£85 From Vineyards Direct, Jeroboams, Lay & Wheeler At Château d’Esclans, they have absolutely perfected the art of delivering depth and intensity with the gentlest of encouragements. Where Les Clans majors on restrained elegance, Garrus delivers wonderfully succulent fresh summer fruits, with touches of citrus rind and rose petal, all balanced with perfectlly judged acidity to add finesse. With an amazingly long finish, this dances along the palate and is mouthwateringly engaging. From old-vine Grenache and Rolle, 90% free-run juice, optical sorting, with 10 months in new and one-year-old 600-litre oak barrels, with lees stirring. Drink 2018-2024 Alcohol 13% Château d’Esclans, Les Clans, Côtes de Provence 2016 96 £31 From Vineyards Direct One of…

Tuscany: know your vintages Brunello di Montalcino 2013 4/5 Cool year with rain throughout. Most will be approachable soon after release, while the best demonstrate elegance, grace and perfume, with mid-term drinking potential of 10-15 years. Chianti Classico 2015 5/5 High summer temperatures with little rainfall – luscious, fully ripe wines with plenty of structure and concentration. Cellar the very best for a couple of decades. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2015 5/5 Hot and sunny conditions giving lower yields of small but ripe berries. Quality not uniform, but the best wines are perfumed and concentrated with firm tannins, drinking between eight and 10 years.…

SOUTH AFRICA Taking root Efforts to seek out and preserve old-vine Chenin Blanc are currently reaping rewards for South Africa’s winemakers. Tim Atkin MW finds out how one of the country’s oldest varieties has become its newest source of world-class wines Photograph: Tim Atkin ‘As people have become aware of these heritage vineyards, they’ve stopped pulling them out’ THE CAPE WINELANDS are some of the most beautiful in the world, all craggy peaks, sweeping vistas and cobalt blue skies. By these dramatic, almost cinematic standards, the Mev (Mrs) Kirsten vineyard is something of a disappointment. Situated in the Jonkershoek Valley, close to the untidy urban sprawl of Stellenbosch, it has none of the grandeur of some of South Africa’s greatest crus. And yet this 0.7ha parcel of Chenin Blanc is…

Top-value red Burgundy: Howard’s Côte de Nuits alternatives Joliet, Fixin 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière 2013 94 £45 Berry Bros & Rudd Fixin’s leading cru: a very refined and serious example of Côte de Nuits Pinot: richness, velvet tannins, finesse, classic aromas. Intriguing notes of spice evident from 25% new oak (and a further 24 months of ageing) which is seamlessly integrated. Drinking very well now but will age for many years. Drink 2019-2026 Alcohol 13.5% René Bouvier, Longeroies Marsannay 2015 94 £32 Tanners The fleshiness of the vintage shines through, with ripe, sweet red fruits and a pronounced floral note. Hard not to like now but, with fine tannin structure, crisp acidity and restrained oak, it has excellent ageing potential. Drink 2019-2025 Alc 13% Taupenot-Merme, Morey-St-Denis 2014 94…

STEVEN SPURRIER’S fine wine world Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Man of the Year reflects on his lengthy and varied career in wine on the publication of his new book: Wine – A Way of Life ‘Looking back over a lifetime, I am still totally in love with it all’ A COUPLE OF years ago, my eight-year-old grandson asked, ‘Grandpa, why are you famous?’ And all I needed to do was to show him a copy of George Taber’s book Judgement of Paris – California vs France and the historic 1976 tasting that revolutionized wine. I’d always thought of writing a slim volume to tell the grandchildren about my life, and bit by bit it grew into something bigger. However, Wine – A Way of Life remains a…

The judges Elizabeth Gabay MW A Master of Wine since 1998, Gabay moved to southeast France in 2002. She is a widely published journalist, writer, educator, speaker and wine judge, and is Provence specialist for the Wine Scholar Guild. Her book Rosé, Understanding the Pink Wine Revolution was published in January 2018 (Infinite Ideas). My top three • Château Fabre Cordon, Printemps d’Amandine, Corbières, Languedoc 2015 Soft, mellow, oxidised bitter orange fruit, but with vibrant, fresh acidity. Notes of Twiglets and orange – perfect with strong cheese. Nothing like a simple young red fruit rosé, but I love it. 95 Drink 2018-2019 • Mas des Dames, Diva Rosé, Languedoc 2016 Salmon pink. Dried fruit, rich and ripe. Chewy, mouthwatering acidity, a really serious rosé. Good weight and balance. Wild red…

PANEL TASTING Greek reds With a renewed focus on indigenous varieties and a move away from heavy oak, Greece is now producing a diverse range of accessible reds. Nico Manessis reports Map: Maggie Nelson THE LANDSCAPE OF Greece is mostly mountainous, its vineyards consisting of small plots scattered across the slopes. This means high-altitude viticulture, with sites ranging from 150m to 750m above sea level. There’s also an abundance of indigenous vines, with over 150 red grapes – most of them hard to pronounce. One name to look out for is Agiorgitiko, which makes accessible, warm-fruited wines with a distinctive black cherry character. Produced in a range of styles from young and fruity to more structured, it’s the backbone of vineyards in Nemea in the Peloponnese. Also in the Peloponnese,…

Crémant from France A great value alternative to Champagne, crémants offer characterful regional sparkle from all over France. Sue Style recommends her favourite bottles WITHOUT THE DEEP pockets required to drink grande marque or grower Champagne, I’m always on the lookout for well-made sparkling wine from other regions of France. There are, of course, many Champagnes available at relatively modest prices. They find a market because there’s something magical about the brand, but they can be deeply disappointing. Decent crémant is often a far better bet. It comes from all around France, from Alsace in the northeast down through the Jura and Burgundy, into Savoie and Die, across to Limoux sheltering beneath the Pyrenees and back up into the Loire Valley. (Bordeaux also does crémant, but I’ve yet to find…

YOUR TOKAJ ADDRESS BOOK ACCOMMODATION Andrássy Rezidencia Wine & Spa The only five-star hotel in the region, with a beautiful pool and spa, set in the manor house of the Andrássy family. www.andrassyrezidencia.hu Barta Stay in a period-furnished suite in the 17th-century mansion or in the more casual guesthouse. Organic wines are made by the talented Vivien Ujvári. www.bartapince.com Gróf Degenfeld A romantic castle hotel with elegantly appointed rooms and an outdoor pool. Stroll to the 18th-century Theresa Chapel or book a winery tour. www.grofdegenfeld.com Hotel Botrytis A new luxury boutique hotel in Mád with just four rooms and two suites, that’s perfectly located to explore this important wine village. www.hotelbotrytis.com RESTAURANTS Elso " Mádi Borház és Bisztró A useful stop for freshly cooked breakfast, coffee or very good informal…

Exclusive Ornellaia artist labels raise funds for V&A Based on Liv-ex pricing at 31 May 2018 Sotheby’s auction of limited-edition Ornellaia wines from the 2015 vintage, featuring label designs by South African artist William Kentridge, raised a total of £123,000 for London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. The sale at the museum in May marked the 30th anniversary of the SuperTuscan’s first vintage release, with Kentridge being commissioned to interpret the character ‘Il Carisma’ (charisma) for the 2015 vintage. The highest-grossing of the nine lots was a salmanazar bottle, plus overnight stay at Ornellaia for six guests, including a vertical tasting and dinner at a Michelin-starred restaurant in Bolgheri, which was bought by an Austrian collector for £50,000.…

John Stimpf ig ‘I was utterly transfixed by the 2016s’ aromatic expression’ JULY AND AUGUST in the northern hemisphere are when Decanter readers’ fancies rightly turn to refreshing fizz, cool rosés and crisp whites, which is why we have devoted much of this issue to these classic summer styles. So why am I using my column to talk about vintage Port, in the midst of a UK heatwave (at least, at the time of writing)? The answer is the declaration of the stupendously good 2016 Ports this spring (see Marketwatch, p104). I tasted them on a sweltering afternoon in London and was utterly transfixed by their aromatic expression, freshness, balance, vivacity, charm and finesse – not descriptors which normally attach themselves to vintage Port. Since then, the offers have quietly…

In brief ■ Fine wine collector and alleged fraudster Hardy Rodenstock died in May at the age of 76 after a long illness, according to reports in the German press. Rodenstock will largely be remembered for the controversial ‘Jefferson bottles’. Doubts around their provenance led to a legal battle, though Rodenstock maintained their authenticity. ■ The 38th Auction Napa Valley raised $13.6m for local community charities, with some lots sold at over $1m. The auction was chaired by the fourth-generation Mondavi sisters. The top lot, raising $1.4m, included imperials of Opus One and tickets to a ball at the Palace of Versailles. ■ Family-owned Champagne house Billecart-Salmon has launched a new cuvée to celebrate its 200th anniversary. It is a blend of wines from the 2000, 2003, 2008 and 2012…

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LANGUEDOC My top 30: Languedoc whites France’s far south is home to an abundance of traditional grape varieties, intriguing blends and alternative wine styles that will add a real point of difference to your summer white wine selection. With her new book on the region out now, Rosemary George MW picks 30 of the best to try TRADITIONALLY THE LANGUEDOC is a region of red wines. With the exception of Clairette du Languedoc, all the region’s early appellations concentrated on red and tended to ignore white wine. St-Chinian and Faugères were appellations for red wine in 1982, whereas their white counterparts were not created until 2005. In the extensive Coteaux du Languedoc, Picpoul de Pinet was recognised as a small pocket of white wine, and indeed became an appellation in…

JURA Jura: six names to watch Domaine André et Mireille Tissot Stéphane Tissot is a leading player in the Jura. He has revolutionised the family domaine and expanded it from 20ha to 50ha. Winemaking decisions include the use of native yeast, limited use of sulphites and recent experiments with amphorae. A transition to organic cultivation was the natural direction following the adoption of native yeast, and biodynamics the next progression with certification from 2009. The range of terroirs explains the multiple bottlings, which include nine different Chardonnays. Domaine Daniel Dugois Daniel Dugois created his 10ha property in the 1970s and used to sell grapes before bottling his own wines. It’s now in the hands of his son, Philippe, who took over in 2013 following viticultural studies and vintage experience in…

The Decanter interview Sacha Lichine Always a man on a mission, this son of Bordeaux broke free of familial ties and went on to establish a new benchmark for quality in rosé wines in the southeast of France. Jane Anson reports after her latest visit to Château d’Esclans in Provence Jane Anson is a Decanter contributing editor, Bordeaux correspondent and author of the book Bordeaux Legends Photograph: Sergi Alexander/Getty ‘Freshly arrived in Provence, he set about creating the world’s most expensive rosé’ THE SOUTH OF France is littered with people who have made it, cashed in and checked out. Which makes Sacha Lichine something of an anomaly. He didn’t buy the ochre-coloured Château d’Esclans having made a fortune in real estate, or supermarkets, or fashion, or…

Vintage report Tuscan new releases A highly rated 2015 vintage for Chianti Classico and Vino Nobile, but more variable results among the 2013 Brunellos. Having tasted the latest releases, Michaela Morris selects the best wines to try and to keep Photograph: Mike Prior. With thanks to Tannico (www.tannico.co.uk) for the loan of the bottles ‘With leaner fruit and less texture in 2013, the Brunellos have nowhere to hide’ MID-FEBRUARY EACH YEAR signals the start of Tuscany’s anteprimi (en primeur) tastings for the new releases of the region’s famous reds. More than 1,500 wines were on show this year, including cask samples of the 2017 vintage as well as current releases including the 2013 Brunello di Montalcinos and the 2012 riservas; Chianti Classico riservas and gran seleziones from 2013, 2014 and…

SOUTH AFRICA Atkin’s pick: best South African old-vine Chenin Alheit Vineyards, Magnetic North Mountain Makstok, Citrusdal Mountain 2016 97 £64 St Andrews Wine Co, WoodWinters This remarkable Chenin comes from blocks 10 and 13 of Basi van Lill’s West Coast farm. Aged in older wood, it has bracing acidity and minerality, with aromas of hay and spring blossom segueing into a chiselled, appley, stony palate with leesy complexity and an undertone of vanilla spice. Drink 2018-2026 Alcohol 14% Sadie Family, Mev Kirsten, Stellenbosch 2015 97 £99.99 AG Wines This suburban vineyard may not be as remote as some of Eben Sadie’s plots, but it still produces a very special wine. Made without skin contact since 2012 – and fresher as a result – it’s tangy, saline and piercingly fresh. A…

The Spurrier selection Vita Vinea, Kisi Amber Dry, Kakheti, Georgia 2016 92 £25 Fortnum & Mason Made from Kisi grapes that are grown on 70-year-old vines and fermented with wild yeasts in qvevri, followed by six months of skin contact. Floral notes with hints of orange peel, fine clarity and persistence on the palate, leading to a dry finish. This is a beautifully crafted wine. Drink 2018-2022 Alcohol 12.5% Altos Las Hormigas, Appellation Gualtallary Malbec, Uco Valley, Argentina 2014 94 £32.45-£39.99 Exel, Liberty Wines, Nickolls & Perks Italian Alberto Antonini and Chilean soil specialist Pedro Parra get the very best from this limestone vineyard at 1,300m. Dense, ripe, garrigue nose and spicy yet supple flavours combining power and finesse. Drink 2018-2028 Alc 14.5% Royal Tokaji, Nyulászó 6 Puttonyos Aszú, Tokaj,…

French rosé: know your vintages 2017 Spring frost and hail, followed by a heatwave, severely reduced quantities. Small berries and an early harvest resulted in concentrated fruit and generally good quality, although some rosés show a lack of acidity. 2016 A cool, wet spring with regional frost and hail reducing quantities. A hot summer resulted in good quality, ripe grapes, although care was needed to preserve the acid/sugar balance for rosés. 2015 A hot dry summer, particularly favourable to rosés from cooler regions. 2014 Unpredictable weather; a cooler, wet summer led to weaker, more acidic rosés. 2013 A cool, late spring and a moderately cool, wet summer led to fresher, fruitier wines. 2012 A divided vintage, with the north suffering a cool, wet harvest. A good vintage in the south.…

FRENCH ROSE BEYOND PROVENCE Outstanding 95–97pts Clos Signadore, A Mandria di Signadore, Patrimonio, Corsica 2016 Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Elizabeth Gabay MW 96 Andy Howard MW 95 Joanna Simon 94 £28 The Good Wine Shop Clos Signadore, located in the Patrimonio appellation in northern Corsica, is the brainchild of Christophe Ferrandis who, although he hails from Marseille on the mainland, has a deep-rooted connection to the island of Corsica. Having worked at Château de Pibarnon in Bandol, he decided to embark on his own project in 2001, at the age of just 26. The estate is now 14ha, with 10ha having been acquired in 2006, to add to the original 4ha, 40- to 50-year-old Nielluccio vines. The A Mandria rosé is 100% Nielluccio, aged on the lees…

PANEL TASTING The results Lesser-known native varieties stole the limelight in this tasting, but Greece’s reds will only match the quality of its whites if winemaking improves, says Nico Manessis THIS VARIED TASTING across regions and grape varieties proved to be a very mixed offering in terms of quality. While there were several highlights, there were disappointing performances from key regions and signs of below-standard viticulture and winemaking, with some dusty and tired wines that lacked energy and fruit. Perhaps not surprisingly, the top vineyard sites, often with lesser-known grapes, stole the show – and Mavrodaphne certainly made its mark. The top-scoring Parparoussis Mavrodaphne is a textbook wine, with fine aromatics, ripe fruit, silky smooth tannins and deft use of oak. It also shows brilliant balance, which is a feat…

Sarah Lane My Bologna With market-fresh meals, a new food theme park and a dynamic local wine scene, Bologna is the perfect city-break destination for gastronomes. Local resident Sarah Lane shares her favourite venues CONSIDERED ITALY’S FOODIE capital, Bologna has always had plenty of restaurants and bars, yet these days many new places are opening around the centre’s markets and porticoed streets – a reassuring commitment to quality and tradition. Wine lists are increasingly regional, and some, such as Osteria del Cappello’s (see opposite), exclusively so. Prime position on Piazza Maggiore, in the medieval centre, is occupied by a contemporary wine store, Signorvino (www.signorvino.com). One major new arrival is FICO Eataly World (www.eatalyworld.it), a smoothly run foodie park featuring 40 producers, 45 eateries offering everything from gourmet to street food,…

Tasting notes decoded Written by Laura Seal Pomegranate Said to originate in the Middle East, the juicy seeds of pomegranates are found in drinks and sweet or savoury dishes around the world. Their tart taste can be likened to sour cherries or cranberries. Pomegranate notes can be detected in fuller-bodied rosé wines, such as Domaine des Tourelles, Rosé 2015 from Lebanon, made from a punchy blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Tempranillo, resulting in ‘an extra dimension of pomegranate-like acidity’. The robust acidity and prominent fruit in this style of rosé can make great summer barbecue pairings. Fiona Beckett recommends Charles Melton, Rose of Virginia 2015, from the Barossa Valley, for its ‘perfumed cherry and pomegranate fruit’ – a good match for lamb. Rosés aside, you can find pomegranate…

Andrew Jefford ‘Modern humans relish “dangerous” bitter flavours’ UNPLEASANTLY BITTER AND sour: that’s how new drinkers tend to find their first glass of red wine. Since most of us reach wine via soft drinks and fruit juices, we’re used to acidity: the strangeness of red wine is that it comes unaccompanied by any balancing sweetness. Semi-sweet wines provide an access route – and it’s not long before we come to appreciate ‘dry’ acidity, especially with food. Bitterness is more intriguing. In evolutionary terms, we have only recently ceased being hunter-gathering omnivores, and bitter flavours were a warning signal that plants or animal parts might contain toxins. A sensitivity to the bitterness of the anti-thyroid drug propylthiouracil or PROP was identified (by psychologist Linda Bartoshuk in 1991) as the key test…

Lawther’s picks: Jura at its characterful best Berthet-Bondet, Château-Chalon 2009 93 £47.53 The Fine Wine Co Bottled in the traditional 62cl clavelin bottle. Savagnin aged for six years under a veil of yeast. Intense, Sherry-like nose with notes of walnut and tobacco. Broad, round and generous palate, with a nutty tone then a piercing, tangy finish. Amazing length. Drink 2018-2040 Alcohol 14% André et Mireille Tissot, Les Bruyères, Arbois 2015 92 £37 Berry Bros & Rudd Chardonnay from clay-heavy marl soils, made by Stéphane Tissot. This is broad and full in style, offering tangy mandarin-citrus notes on the palate and a slightly mealy edge, balanced by good acidity throughout. Finishes on a refreshing tangy note. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 13% Jean-François Ganevat, Les Gryphées Vieilles Vignes, Côtes du Jura 2014 92…

Sacha Lichine at a glance Born 1960 in Margaux as Alexis André Serge Lichine to parents Alexis Lichine and Gisèle Edenbourgh – their second child, after his sister Alexandra Education Lycée Française, New York; Boston University (though he didn’t graduate: ‘I went to one university with one teacher, Alexis Lichine, and one pupil…me’) Career Ran Château Prieuré-Lichine from the late 1980s to 1999, working on his own after his father Alexis’ death in 1989. Bought Château d’Esclans in 2006 for €13 million Family Married to Mathilde Lichine, five children Hobbies Sailing his boat Snapper, which is moored in St-Tropez; collecting wine-related art…

VINTAGE REPORT: TUSCANY Morris’ top 50 Tuscan wines Wines are listed by denominazione, then by score, then alphabetically by producer. Prices, stockists and alcohols are given where possible. Find full tasting notes at Decanter.com/premium Brunello di Montalcino Salicutti, Piaggione 2013 96 Salicutti’s Francesco Leanza says 2013 is the latest harvest he can remember, but the result is superb. Delineated aromas of redcurrant, cherry and raspberry are joined by evocative rose and lavender. The palate brings in fennel and earth nuances, and wondrously crunchy acidity with ample yet finely textured tannins. The essence of grace. Drink 2020-2035 Alcohol 14.5% Salvioni, La Cerbaiola 2013 96 £76.67 (ib) Roberson Three plots totalling less than 4ha at an average altitude of 440m on galestro soil. In 2013, the estate only made Brunello. Flirts with…

CHAMPAGNE Stelzer’s pick: a selection of great Champagnes Krug, Clos du Mesnil, Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 100 £750 Albany, Brunswick, Clos 19, Corkr, Goedhuis & Co, James Fine Wines, Jeroboams, Justerini & Brooks, L’Assemblage, Nickolls & Perks, The Finest Bubble, Wine Owners Exchange Singly and emphatically the greatest Champagne release of recent years. Grand malic acidity of dizzyingly heightened proportions is swept up in an immense, all-consuming tidal wave of frothing, sea-salt minerality, crashing with such structure that any mortal wine would collapse breathless in its wake. Yet herein lies the triumph of 2002, the vintage that more than any other reverberates with looming structure, yet meets it commandingly with awe-inspiring fruit presence. This sets it with a life expectancy of a century, no less. Drink 2022-2102 Alcohol 12.5%…

BURGUNDY Côte de Nuits alternatives The realities of the market now put the best Burgundy Pinot Noir beyond the reach of most wine lovers. But, argues Andy Howard MW, some great examples can still be found at relatively affordable prices. He recommends the names to look out for – and selects a dozen excellent wines to try Photographs: Mick Rock/Cephas; Mike Prior THE ANNOUNCEMENT OF the sale of world-famous grand cru Clos de Tart in November 2017 confirmed the dizzying values to which top Burgundian terroirs can now aspire. The 7.53ha vineyard was sold (it is believed) for somewhere between €250-€280 million (more than €33m per hectare). This followed the earlier, high-profile sales of Domaine des Lambrays to LVMH in 2014 for €101m, and of Bonneau du Martray in 2017…

The Decanter guarantee Our buying guide provides you with trusted, independent, expert recommendations on what to buy, drink and cellar. Each panel tasting is judged by three experienced tasters chosen for their authority in the category of wine being rated. All wines are tasted blind and are pre-poured for judges in flights of eight to 10 wines. Our experts taste and score wines individually but then discuss their scores together at the end of each flight. Any wines on which scores are markedly different are retasted; however, judges are under no obligation to amend their scores. Judges are encouraged to look for typicity in wines, rewarding those that are true to their region. When judging, experts are aware of wine price bands – under £15, £15-£30…

25 UNDER £25 Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s associate editor Tina Gellie has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK for £25 or less Gauchezco, Pinot Noir Extra Brut, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina NV 89 £15.99 Ministry of Drinks, Ocado A 100% Pinot Noir from sandy-loam vineyards in the Barrancas area of Maipú. It has 9.7g/L of residual sugar but manages to avoid being confected thanks to firm acidity. Fresh, bright red apple fruit and a creamy, strawberry yoghurt finish. Alcohol 12% Domaine Malat, On the QT Bin 9 Skin Fermented Grüner Veltliner, Kremstal, Austria 2016 91 £15.99 Waitrose Cellar For those unsure about orange wines (whites fermented…

PANEL TASTING The summary Spend the summer experimenting to find your preferred style of rosé: there’s a wealth of styles and quality at all price levels, as Elizabeth Gabay MW reports IN 2014, FRANCE produced 30% of the world’s rosé, with most coming from the south, reflected in this tasting by the high number of entries from Languedoc-Roussillon and the Rhône Valley (including some periphery Provence regions). Some 50% of all French rosé is IGP (indication géographique protégée) and about 10% Vin de France – but only about 20% of the wines shown here were IGP and only three were Vin de France, perhaps reflecting the market desire for rosé made with AP certification. All of the wines that we rated Outstanding or Highly Recommended were noticeably more concentrated, complex…

PANEL TASTING Highly Recommended 90–94pts Château Guiot, Costières de Nîmes, Rhône 2017 93 EG 95 AH 93 JS 92 £8.99 Majestic Wild berry fruit freshness with hints of raspberry and herbs on the nose. The palate is full of sour dark cherry fruit, a delicate mineral core, followed by zesty acidity and sweetness of fruit. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 13.5% Mas des Dames, Diva Rosé, Languedoc 2016 92 EG 90 AH 92 JS 94 £17 Roberson Dried fruit, rich and ripe, fresh spice and cassis aromatics following through to layers of wild berries, sour cherries and hints of cranberries. It has length and persistence. A really serious rosé. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 13.5% Alain Gueneau, Sancerre, Loire 2016 92 EG 94 AH 93 JS 90 £22 Top Selection Redcurrant fruit notes on…

The judges Terry Kandylis After studying in Athens, Kandylis moved to the UK and has worked at The Fat Duck, The Ledbury and 67 Pall Mall private members club. He earned the title of Best Sommelier in Greece in 2015 and was the UK Sommelier of the Year in 2016. He has passed the advanced level of the Court of Master Sommeliers exam and is currently preparing for his MS Diploma. My top three • Parparoussis, Taos, Achaia, Peloponnese 2012 A truly unique red from the Western Peloponnese. Has a herbal undertone that makes you wonder if this is the Mediterranean sibling of Cabernet Franc and Mencia. 96/100 Drink 2018-2025 • Domaine Zafeirakis, Limniona, Tyrnavos, Thessaly 2015 When I first encountered this domaine, its wines were oaky and modern. This…

MY PERFECT DAY IN TOKAJ MORNING Relax in the spa before breakfast at the Andrássy Rezidencia Wine & Spa* in Tarcal. Go for a stroll and take the short but steep climb to the Blessing Jesus statue for stunning views over the Tokaj landscape; 15 minutes more will take you down to the peaceful, emerald-coloured Bányató quarry lake. On the way back, stop at Tokaj-Kikelet (www.tokajkikelet.hu) to taste Stéphanie Berecz’s gorgeously refined wines and don’t miss the vineyard selections of Hárslevelu and pristine Szamorodni. Call beforehand to arrange your visit (+36 30 636 9046). LUNCH Head to Mád village (about 15 minutes by car) and stop midway for coffee at Sárga Borház* and a short visit to Disznóko´’s stunning vineyards and winery (http://disznoko.hu). Have a light lunch at Els ´…

MY BOLOGNA 1 Mia Cantina Break a walk back from the hilltop San Luca sanctuary at this wine bar with its ever-changing selection of labels, mostly from independent Italian producers. A tapas-style menu features artisan specialities from the owners’ home regions of Sardinia and Basilicata. www.miacantina.it 2 Bio’s Kitchen Dishes that startle both the eyes and the tastebuds. Everything is certified organic and although the choice is largely vegetarian, there is seafood too, while speciality meats include local Razza Romagnola beef. www.biositalia.com 3 Mercato delle Erbe An authentic market atmosphere. Great options include Vineria alle Erbe for platters and wine or Banco 32 for a delicious seafood lunch or evening tapas. Just behind, Le Sfogline (www.lesfogline.it) also runs half-day pasta-making courses. www.mercatodelleerbe.eu 4 Cantina Bentivoglio Bologna’s premier jazz venue is…

Wine Legends Moss Wood, Cabernet Sauvignon 1975 Wilyabrup, Margaret River, Western Australia A legend because… In the late 1960s and early 1970s there was a rush to make wine in Margaret River, and a number of properties – not only Moss Wood but Vasse Felix and Cullen – were planted. Largely improvised, these early vintages received unexpected acclaim. The 1975 Moss Wood Cabernet was one of those wines, and has long been considered one of the greatest red wines produced in the region. Looking back The surge in interest in Margaret River as a wine region can be attributed to the publication in 1966 of a report by Dr John Gladstones. A botanic research scientist with an interest in viticulture, he spotted the suitability of the region for wine production.…