Indholdsfortegnelse for Nov-2018 i Decanter

In brief ■ A new Welsh and English whisky trail has been launched by the Wine & Spirit Trade Association (WSTA), which has mapped 19 distillers across the two British nations. A continuing craft spirits boom means there are now 315 distilleries in the UK – more than double the number recorded five years ago, according to WSTA chief executive Miles Beale. ■ Hedonism Wines in Mayfair has sold a rare imperial three-quarter gallon bottle of Massougnes 1805 Cognac for more than £200,000. It was originally acquired 20 years ago from Marie-Antoinette des Allées, Comtesse de la Bourdelière, whose family owned the former Cognac-producing estate. ■ English wine producer Chapel Down has announced plans to create the UK’s ‘largest vineyard’ in an effort to satisfy anticipated demand over the next…

Letter of the month Climate change crusaders THE WINE INDUSTRY’S ‘greater commitment to mitigating climate change’ (‘A Month in Wine’, September 2018) is commendable, but I wonder if it could play a further and possibly more important role. There are a handful of politicians in critical decision-making positions who still view climate change as some sort of conspiracy theory or hoax. Could the wine industry play a crucial role in convincing these last bastions of denial that this is really happening? Producers around the globe are in possession of a plethora of data spanning decades, detailing temperatures, residual sugar, rainfall, harvest conditions, alcohol levels, phenolic ripeness… the list goes on. I can’t think of any industry, agricultural or otherwise, which could be a better barometer of our changing climate than…

BEST BUY RED BURGUNDY Value red Burgundy You can easily spend a small fortune on a bottle of Côte d’Or Pinot Noir if you so desire – but you don’t have to. Tim Atkin MW was impressed with the quality of these 32 best buys TO LISTEN TO some people, good value red Burgundy is an oxymoron, right up there with friendly fire, jumbo shrimps and Hell’s Angels. It all depends on what you mean by value, of course. If you’re in search of a £5.99 bottle of Gevrey-Chambertin – the unicorn of the wine world – you are almost certain to be disappointed. But that doesn’t mean that all Burgundy is second mortgage material. The very top wines are indeed expensive, stratospherically so in some cases, but Burgundy also…

RIOJA Rioja renegades In this most famous of Spanish wine regions, the agenda has traditionally been set by the big players. But some are breaking ranks in search of self-expression. Sarah Jane Evans MW selects the 10 most influential free spirits of Rioja Photographs: Tim Atkin MW RIOJA, SPAIN’S MOST famous wine region, is surely too classical and altogether too famous to have renegades. Yet depending on how you define the term, Rioja certainly does have its fair share. ‘A person who deserts and betrays an organisation, country or set of principles’ sounds a rather harsh descriptor of those producers who choose to follow their own path along the winding banks of the river Ebro. Yet the departure of Juan Carlos López de Lacalle from the Denominación at the end…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Tikveš Winery A beacon of Balkan excellence Kratošija, Vranec and Republic of Macedonia are not names usually associated with world-class wines – until now. Tikveš Winery’s superb 2015 Barovo single-vineyard red picked up a well-deserved platinum medal and 97 points at Decanter World Wine Awards 2018. Caroline Gilby MW went to take a look at the fascinating story behind this gorgeous wine. The tale of Tikveš Barovo is of passionate people and a stunning landscape at the crossroads of east and west. Grape-growing has a long history in this region, with Neolithic evidence of grape remains, while both Philip of Macedon and his son Alexander the Great were renowned drinkers of the local wine and Romans traded wine from this region. Tikveš itself was the first winery of…

Cental Otago: six names to know Rippon The Mills family, owners of a sheep station on the poor schist soils of Wanaka, were pioneers of Central Otago viticulture. What began with a few rows of vines in 1975, led to the first commercial vintage in 1989. Their 1990 vintage, made by a young Rudi Bauer (now Quartz Reef), lured the Dicey brothers of Ceres Wines and Blair Walter, winemaker at Felton Road, to Central Otago. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically. Older Rippon vintages are spectacular. Ceres Wines This is the family project of Matt and James Dicey, who until recently were winemaker and viticulturist, respectively, for Mt Difficulty, where they’d worked since the 1990s. Here they’re able to focus on single sites in Bannockburn and have dialled extraction and oak…

Hooke’s top 10 from the Adelaide Hills Daosa, Blanc de Blancs, Piccadilly Valley 2012 93 N/A UK www.terreaterre.com.au A powerful, oak-tinged wine which has spent five years on lees following fermentation and ageing in seasoned foudre. Coconutty, toasty Chardonnay fruit aromas with creamy lees influences. Crisp and very dry to taste thanks to low dosage, it’s refined and long with refreshing acidity to finish. Drink 2018-2022 Alcohol 12.5% Deviation Road, Loftia Vintage Brut 2015 93 £24.99 (2012) Berkmann A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. The colour is light rose-gold and it has aromas of toffee apple, meringue and smoky vanilla. Open-knit and full palate with apple and yeast-developed flavours. The acidity is fresh and crisp, cleansing the finish and aftertaste. A wine of superb purity. Drink 2018-2022…

The red wines of Asolo The Asolo Prosecco production zone is part of a larger DOC known as Asolo Montello; within this appellation, wines are labelled as Montello-Colli Asolani DOC, while there are also some red wines that can be labelled as Montello DOCG. (A small amount of white is made here, but the most accomplished still wines are the reds.) There are two basic styles, one made from an indigenous variety known as Recantina, and the second, Bordeaux blends. Planted here since the 1870s, Recantina has flavours of red cherry and plum, with moderate tannins and healthy acidity; some versions recall a cru Beaujolais in their exuberance, while others are more northern Rhône-like in their density. The best examples are from Ida Agnoletti, Pat del Colmèl and Giusti’s Augusto,…

RETAILER AWARDS Decanter Retailer Awards 2018 The Decanter Retailer Awards goes from strength to strength, defying challenging retail conditions to grow considerably over the past few years, just like the successful retailers themselves. ‘It’s an annual privilege to witness all the brilliant endeavour in UK wine retail,’ comments chairman Peter Richards MW. ‘The aim of the competition, though, is always constant: to raise a glass to all those who make that glass so delightful in the first place.’ The judging panel Peter Richards MW is chairman of the Decanter Retailer Awards, an awarded writer and broadcaster Fiona Beckett is a contributing editor for Decanter and a wine correspondent for The Guardian Andy Howard MW is a regular Decanter contributor, DWWA judge and runs wine consultancy Vinetrades Peter Ranscombe is a…

The judges Stephen Brook Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and is Regional Chair for Piedmont at the Decanter World Wine Awards. He is a widely published wine writer and educator, and has authored more than 40 books, largely in the fields of wine and travel, for which he has won numerous awards. My top three ■ Ettore Germano, Cerretta Serralunga is packed with good producers, and Sergio Germano is among them (terrific Riesling too). This wine dazzled here. Aged in 700-litre barrels, it’s a compromise between traditional and modern styles and none the worse for it. 98 Drink 2019-2031 ■ Marcarini, Brunate Marcarini’s Baroli from La Morra are first-rate. Unswervingly traditional, given a long fermentation and then at least two years in large casks, often…

Panel tasting The summary A solid performance, if not exciting. Although these wines didn’t quite live up to our judges’ high expectations, there is good value to be found, says Tim Atkin MW EVEN PROFESSIONAL, PALATE-HARDENED tasters look forward to some events more than others. It’s no exaggeration to say that the panel approached this range of Stellenbosch Cabernets with lip-smacking excitement. The reason: the 2015 vintage, widely touted as the greatest red wine harvest since 2009, was heavily represented, with 33 of the 64 Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet-dominated wines on show. Greg Sherwood MW and I had tasted a number of these wines sighted in the Cape and were convinced we were in for a treat. For some reason, it didn’t quite work out that way. It may have…

expert’s choice English still wines Although currently best known for its sparkling wines, there’s huge potential for the production of still wines in the UK, says Susie Barrie MW – as these bottle show IF THE EXTRAORDINARY weather of 2018 in the British Isles proved anything, it is to expect the unexpected. That said, according to Dr Alistair Nesbitt of Climate Wine Consulting, the average growing season temperature in the UK is steadily rising. If this trend continues, it isn’t just sparkling wine that the country’s winemakers should be focusing on. Still wines can and should form a credible part of future planning. Although the UK’s reputation as a producer of world-class wines has understandably been founded on fizz, still wines are now deservedly beginning to share the limelight. As…

YOUR PASO ROBLES ADDRESS BOOK ACCOMMODATION Allegretto Vineyard Resort Just outside downtown Paso Robles, this Tuscan-inspired resort offers a range of amenities including a spa, fitness centre and restaurant, with a tasting room for its estate wines. www.allegrettovineyardresort. Paso Robles Inn A reincarnation of the Paso Robles Hotel, this landmark offers a romantic setting adorned with gardens and ponds. Opening in early 2019 is The Piccolo, its luxurious new downtown addition, boasting a rooftop bar. www.pasoroblesinn.com Refugio Paso Robles Spanish-style guesthouse with two chic suites. Husband-and-wife duo Casey Biggs and Brigit Binns, a cookbook author, offer cookery classes in their open kitchen space. www.refugiopasorobles.com SummerWood Inn Nestled within SummerWood Winery’s vineyard, this contemporary farmhouse offers guests a luxurious wine-country refuge, with elevated cuisine showcasing local ingredients. www.summerwoodwine.com Tinker Tin Trailer…

John Stimpfig ‘Drinking wine with others becomes a profound activity’ THIS MORNING, I switched on my radio and heard the depressing headline news that another major study (published in The Lancet and looking at drinkers in 195 countries over 26 years), has concluded that there are ‘no safe levels for drinking alcohol’. This clearly can’t be dismissed; but is it the whole story? Not according to Oxford University evolutionary psychologist, Professor Robin Dunbar. In contrast to The Lancet report, Dunbar firmly believes that responsible, social drinking is a positive boon for both individuals and society. ‘Primate social groups rely on “bondedness” to maintain social coherence,’ he explains. ‘And for humans, this is where a shared bottle of red wine plays a powerful role. It could be the secret of a…

Amonth in wine Around the wine world Decanter welcomes former Wine Society CEO as MD Robin McMillan, formerly CEO of The Wine Society, began his new role as Decanter’s managing director on 10 September. McMillan will ensure the continued strong performance of the 43-year-old wine brand, as well as accelerating its international growth across key business areas such as Decanter magazine, online Decanter Premium, events and awards. McMillan spent six years as CEO of The Wine Society in the UK, during which time membership grew by more than 25,000 to stand at 140,000, the society said. Prior to joining The Wine Society, McMillan had been chief operating officer at Berry Bros & Rudd, one of the UK’s oldest wine merchants. ‘Having worked with two iconic British wine brands over the…

Andrew Jefford ‘Drinks companies cannot afford to ignore the cannabis trend’ CANNABIS IS COMING, and wine producers know it. If you are Canadian, Spanish, Dutch, Georgian or Uruguayan, you can consume recreational cannabis; so can people in nine US states and in Washington DC. Cannabis may remain illegal elsewhere, but personal recreational use is often decriminalised. We’ll see rapid legislative changes regarding cannabis over the next 50 years. Constellation Brands, the owner of Robert Mondavi, Nobilo, Kim Crawford and other wine brands, has just upped its investment in Canadian cannabis producer Canopy Growth, giving itself the option on a controlling stake in three years. Most recreational cannabis users still smoke the stuff, but it can also be vaped and ingested. Cannabis drinks of various sorts may become the leading medium…

Poderi Campopian - “Lunante” Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore DOP The name of the wine “Lunante” derives from the Italian word “luna”, which in English literally means “moon” and refers to the fact that grapes are harvested only at night to maintain their freshness. After being destemmed and crushed, the grapes are fermented and gently pressed and the resulting wine is then passed over the skins of grapes used for Amarone. Maturation is in oak barrels for 12 to 18 months. With a deep ruby red color, the character of this wine is already obvious from its looks. On the nose, there’s a fruity bouquet of ripe red fruit with notes of licorice and hints of spices. On the palate it is full-bodied, with pronounced fruity aromas and velvety tannins that…

Evans’ pick: renegade Rioja wines López de Heredia, Matador Parreno, Rioja 2001 99 N/A UK www.lopezdeheredia.com Glorious, and impossible to fault. The aromas are all mature Rioja, while the palate reveals an elegant, memorable tapestry of fruit. Vivid and fresh, polished and utterly refined. Presents a different and alluring facet of López de Heredia. Drink 2018-2045 Alcohol N/A Bodegas Bhilar, Phinca La Revilla Sexto Año, Rioja 2011 94 POA Bibendum Wine Fascinating: a contemporary homage to a Rioja classic. Single vineyard, biodynamic viticulture; foot-trodden and aged for six years in oak barricas. No hint of fruit. Complex with dried herbs and flowers, citrus, very fine texture. Drink 2018-2024 Alc 14% Artadi, Viñas de Gain, Alava 2015 93 £21.95-£24.75 Gauntleys of Nottingham, Jeroboams Just Tempranillo, organic viticulture, a blend of village…

Vintage report California Cabernet 2015 A surprisingly uniform vintage across the region, with smaller volumes but exceptional quality. Linda Murphy selects the best wines to buy Photograph: Mike Prior. With thanks to Hedonism Wines (www. hedonism.co.uk) & Top Selection Wines & Spirits (www.topselection.co.uk) for the loan of the bottles ‘While it’s not a year for accountants, winemakers are both giddy and relieved at the quality and concentration of their wines’ NEARLY 650KM SEPARATE California’s northernmost quality Cabernet Sauvignon region, Lake County, and Santa Barbara County’s Happy Canyon appellation in the far south. What are the chances of near-mirror vintage conditions throughout a state that is larger and more diverse than many countries? Well, in 2015 that chance was nearly 100%, with the vast majority of producers using very similar words…

Hooke’s top 10 from the Adelaide Hills (continued) Geoff Hardy, K1 Gruner Veltliner 2017 92 £17 Chapel Down’s Great Minds Drink Alike The aromas of pepper and green herbs are attractive and authentically Gruner. White pepper sprinkled on cucumber. Tangy and fresh, crisp and alive on the tongue, if a fraction straightforward. A deliciously refreshing and appetising dry white. Drink 2018-2023 Alc 12% Hahndorf Hill, Gru Gruner Veltliner 2017 92 £23.99-£25.99 Connolly’s, Ex-Cellar, Gorey Wine Cellars, Hailsham Cellars, Just in Cases, Oz Wines, The Oxford Wine Co, The Salusbury Wine Store With its light greenish yellow colour and fresh, lifted but discreet aroma evoking fresh herbs with lemon and floral notes, this is full of character yet simultaneously restrained and delicate. The taste is finely textured and crisp, with a…

Hyland’s pick of Asolo Prosecco Bele Casel, Colfòndo 2014 92 N/A UK www.belecasel.com Aromas very similar to an Italian blonde beer, with notes of lemon rind and a hint of brown sugar. Rich mid-palate, lengthy finish, good acidity, great complexity; very much in the style of a natural wine, this has evolved beautifully. Drink 2018-2023 Alcohol 11% Ida Agnoletti, Selva N. 55 NV 91 N/A UK www.idaagnoletti.it Aromas of magnolia, lemon rind, cereal grain and sunflower oil. Very good persistence and acidity on the palate, with wonderful complexity; off-dry. Proof that a frizzante can offer notable quality and character. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 11.5% Pat del Colmèl, Superiore Extra Dry NV 90 N/A UK www.patdelcolmel.it Aromas of dried apricot, gum leaves, ginger and lilacs. Beautiful freshness and clarity, with a lightly…

Beyond sugar The impression of sweetness in a wine isn’t just down to how much residual sugar and acidity it has. The following list of factors can also play a role: Oak Ageing in contact with oak can release sweet-tasting compounds into the wine. It can also impart flavours that are associated with sweetness, such as naturally occurring vanillin, or caramel or coffee flavours produced from toasting the oak over a flame. Ripeness The flavours of very ripe grapes – overripe, jammy or dried fruits – can prompt us to think of the sweetness that would usually accompany these flavours in nature, even if the wine which contains these flavours has been fermented to dryness. Alcohol Alcohol can taste sweet (as can glycerol), so a wine with a high alcohol…

STEVEN SPURRIER’S fine wine world Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Man of the Year hand-picks fine wines for drinking now and recommends others to lay down, all priced from £25 upwards From the cellar Henschke, Mt Edelstone Shiraz 1994 Johann Christian emigrated from German Silesia in 1841 to found the family vineyards from which 2018 will produce Henschke’s 151st vintage. Nearby Mount Edelstone vineyard was planted to 100% Shiraz in 1912 by Ronald Angas. It was his son Colin who first offered the grapes to fourth-generation Cyril Henschke in the early 1950s, Cyril finally acquiring the vineyard in 1974. Stephen and Prue Henschke took over in 1979 and their son Johann crosses the world as a passionately articulate brand ambassador. His presentation at Mayfair’s 28°-50° restaurant began with…

Barolo: know your vintages 2017 Hail in April, sporadic rainfall, and a long, dry summer with heat spikes. Small berries, concentrated wines that may lack perfect balance. 2016 Fine summer weather continued into September, with cool nights giving prolonged hang-time. Potentially superb. Drink 2021-2038 2015 July was hotter than 2003, but it cooled off in late August. Early-drinking vintage, resembling 2007 and 2009. Drink 2019-2030 2014 Early summer was wet with sporadic hail, but sunny days from mid-September. October weather worsened, leading to some variable quality. Drink 2018-2028 2013 Wet spring but good flowering, some mildew in a fairly cool summer. Generous crop, and a wet September gave less rich wines, but the best are perfumed, elegant. Drink 2019-2030 2012 Complicated by hailstorms, heat spikes, and sunburn, but there are…

Outstanding 95–97pts Ettore Germano, Cerretta Decanter average score: 97/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Stephen Brook 98 Michael Garner 96 Susan Hulme MW 97 £65 Astrum Under the ownership of the Germano family for five generations, this estate currently spans 18 hectares of vineyard. This Barolo is sourced from one of Serralunga d’Alba’s most important crus, Cerretta, an expansive hill facing south/southwest. While adopting modern techniques – stainless steel is much in evidence – the winemaking is rooted in tradition: fermentation is short, around 12-15 days, in open wooden fermenters and maturation is completed in a variety of barrel sizes. The Cerretta spends 24 months in 700-litre French oak barrels, 15%-20% new, and then a further 15-18 months in bottle before release. Stephen Brook Hefty nose of smoky bacon but with ample…

Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon: know your vintages 2016 A tricky year marked by hot, dry conditions and drought. Picking dates were very important, but the top wines are very good 2015 Superb wines built for long ageing. One of the Cape’s best ever vintages, with near-perfect growing conditions 2014 A cooler and wetter year that, at its best, produced elegant ‘European-style’ Cabs. Pick and choose your producer with care 2013 A very late harvest this year gave the biggest ever crop in South Africa. Generally well-balanced wines, ageing well 2012 Lack of water, especially during flowering, reduced crop levels, but quality is generally good to very good. Drinking well now 2011 A vintage of climatic fluctuations – the leading producers tended to cope best with the variable conditions…

The judges Tim Atkin MW An award-winning writer, photographer, broadcaster and taster, Atkin became a Master of Wine in 2001. His website, timatkin.com , includes an in-depth annual report on the South African wine scene. He has been writing about the Cape since 1991 and is regarded as a leading commentators on its wines. My top three ■ KWV, The Mentors 2014 KWV now boasts one of the best viticultural and winemaking teams in the industry. Like the rest of The Mentors range, this is a high-end and small-batch. 2014 wasn’t the easiest vintage, so the quality is noteworthy. 96 Drink 2019-2024 ■ Waterford Estate 2015 Top young winemaker Mark Le Roux works with the experienced Kevin Arnold. Their Bordeaux blend includes small amounts of Merlot, Petit Verdot and…

READERS’ QUERIES Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge Mature double magnums We recently enjoyed a double magnum of 1982 Mouton, removed from the cellar and immediately decanted. It had been perfectly stored and the colour was youthful. How long would you allow this wine to breathe either in the glass or decanter to maximise its beauty? Sterling DePew, by email Jane Anson replies: Decanting older wines is tricky, because often the main argument for doing so is to remove sediment, rather than to allow the wine to open up. A wine at 30 years old can have a delicate aromatic structure that you want to preserve, rather than allow it to escape into the room; as a result, decanting for too…

Catena Zapata to debut on La Place Prices based on Liv-ex data as of 31 August 2018, unless otherwise stated. Bodega Catena Zapata in Argentina has said that flagship wines Nicolás Catena Zapata 2015 and Adrianna Vineyard, Mundus Bacillus Terrae Malbec 2015 will be sold in Europe and Asia through the Place de Bordeaux system. Catena has signed a deal with 10 Bordeaux merchants, underlining growing interest within the city’s négociant system in non-French producers. Dr Laura Catena, who manages Catena Zapata, said: ‘I have long admired the Bordeaux négociants’ commitment to distributing the greatest wines of Bordeaux to collectors all over the world.’ Other non-French wines on the Place include Italy’s Masseto, California’s Opus One and Francis Ford Coppola’s Inglenook, and Chile’s Seña.…

Decanter Wine Legends Sandeman Vintage Port 1945 Douro Valley, Portugal A legend because… With its brilliantly memorable logo of a don in a wide-brimmed hat and cape, Sandeman has long been one of the drinks industry’s most recognised brands. Quality has not always matched the dashing image, yet there were some magnificent wines produced in the first half of the 20th century. Sandeman certainly triumphed in 1945. Well-stored bottles remain vibrant and drinkable to this day. Looking back Shipping its wines to Britain since 1790, Sandeman was family-owned until 1980 when it was acquired by Seagram, and since 2001 it has been owned by Portugal’s Sogrape. The 1960s to 1980s were a tricky period, probably because of excessive production and a loss of contracts with some exceptional quintas. However, in…

Evans’ pick: renegade Riojas (continued) Gómez Cruzado, Honorable, Rioja 2014 92 £30 Millésima Honorable is the revived Gómez Cruzado’s most traditional Rioja. A classic blend of varieties from the estate’s oldest vineyards gives a dense, succulent wine, that’s bold with spice and a lift of orange zest. Drink 2018-2023 Alc 14.5% Palacios Remondo, La Montesa Crianza, Rioja 2015 92 £17.95 Christopher Keiller, Raeburn Spot-on: La Montesa is now in its right place. Ripe, polished Garnacha, with notes of herbs and spice, and a slight seasoning of Tempranillo. Long, confident, finely integrated oak, full-flavoured finish. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 14% Sierra de Toloño, La Dula, Rioja 2016 91 £37.50 Lea & Sandeman Sandra Bravo’s Garnacha vineyard is located at a chilly and windy 650m above sea level. Fermented and aged in 300-litre…

Murphy’s top 40 California Cabernets Wines from the 2015 vintage, listed by region Napa Valley Kapcsándy Family Winery, Grand Vin, Yountville 96 N/A UK www.kapcsandywines.com Pure, focused, refined and energetic; it’s hard to believe this came from such an intense vintage. The family’s State Lane Vineyard is the source of their red grapes, and Merlot adds suppleness. Black raspberry, Asian spice, modest oak, firm acid and tannin backbone, with a juicy, racy finish, make it a joy to drink now and well into the future. Drink 2020-2032 Alcohol 14% Cardinale 94 £166-£250 (2014) Crump Richmond Shaw, Farr Vintners, Grand Vin, Millésima It’s the rare Napa Cab that drinks beautifully on release and then through a decade or more. Decandently plush and juicy, with lifted floral aromas and smooth, seamless tannins.…

Krebiehl’s pick of Central Otago Quartz Reef, Methode Traditionelle, Bendigo 2012 94 N/A UK www.quartzreef.co.nz This vintage release of 91% Chardonnay and 9% Pinot Noir spent 46 months on lees and is a picture of brilliance and freshness. Creamy apple notes on the nose turn into drive and acidic thrill on the palate, accompanied by vivid, ripe apple fruit and subtle, distinctive, lemony autolysis. This is a serious, joyous, very long and intensely fresh wine. Pure drinking pleasure. Drink 2018-2028 Alcohol 12.5% Mount Edward, Morrison Vineyard Riesling, Lowburn 2015 93 £19.95 Alliance Wine, Wine Direct Lifted purity of lime zest and Granny Smith apple spells both seriousness and refreshment. With some evolution, this is slowly hitting its stride. The palate shows crystalline acidity, which creates lots of tension between apple…

Explore sweetness in wine with Walls’ suggestions Lise et Bertrand Jousset, En Aparté Moelleux, Montlouis-sur-Loire, France 2009 96 N/A UK www.domaine-jousset.fr A new estate with old vines and biodynamic methods. Joyful aromas of pineapple, apple compote and beeswax. Medium-sweet but you barely notice; it’s so fresh, pure, featherlight and perfectly balanced. Drink 2018-2025 Alcohol 11.5% Szepsy, Betsek Tokaji Furmint, Tokaj, Hungary 2015 95 £42.99 AG Wines, Top Selection ‘Száraz’ on the label denotes a dry wine. Szepsy is the master. Floral notes, green apple and rhubarb. Cooling and calming yet electrifying on the palate. Stunning purity and finesse; this is quietly wonderful. Drink 2018-2033 Alc 13% Trimbach, Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile, Alsace, France 2010 95 £38.50-£48 Berry Bros & Rudd, Exel, Great Western Wine Unusually, the 2010 (grown organically) has…

25 UNDER £25 Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s associate editor Tina Gellie has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK for £25 or less Simonnet-Febvre, Crémant de Bourgogne Brut, Burgundy, France NV 91 £15.99 Haywood Wines, Inverarity One to One, The Drink Shop This winery has made crémants since the 1840s. Its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend shows toasty orchard fruit aromas that continue on a creamy palate with yeasty complexity and a pineapple finish. Alcohol 12% Angel Sequeiros, Quinta Gaviñeira Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain 2014 91 £15.25 Master of Malt, Top Selection Angel Sequeiros bought this estate in 1960. Today its century-old Albariño vineyards are managed…

PANEL TASTING The summary Somewhere between bashful and truculent in their early years, these 2008 Barolos are now revealing a high standard of complexity and character, says Stephen Brook THE TASTING SUGGESTED that the wines are maturing quite quickly, developing secondary aromas and gaining in weight of fruit. As Michael Garner put it: ‘They’re reaching that plateau stage where the wines will continue to evolve but more slowly. There is no rush to drink the best wines.’ The word ‘classic’ was used by all the tasters, in contrast to vintages such as 2007 or 2009 which had more opulence and were user-friendly from the outset. The 2008s needed time to shed their initial austerity, but that is true of many great Barolo vintages. Garner added: ‘2008 was relatively cool, but…

Panel tasting Highly Recommended 90–94 pts Amalia 94 SB 92 MG 97 SH 92 N/A UK www.cascinaamalia.it Impressively fresh throughout, with scented bramble and loganberry aromas welcoming a juicy palate with bright, lively fruit. Long and beautifully balanced, a really impressive effort. Drink 2019-2029 Alc 14.5% Damilano, Cannubi 94 SB 96 MG 90 SH 95 £65 Winetraders Beefy and leathery on the nose. Rich and sumptuous palate, with a fine depth of fruit and an unusually creamy texture – it’s big-framed and bold, yet voluptuous and seductive. Drink 2019-2028 Alc 14.5% Marcarini, Brunate 94 SB 96 MG 95 SH 90 POA Berry Bros & Rudd Raspberry nose with a hint of tea. Rich, suave and very concentrated, with robust yet integrated tannins that give it swagger and drive. In its…

South African Cabs: the facts Cabernet planted 10,360ha (SA total all varieties 95,545ha), divided principally between Stellenbosch (3,002ha), Paarl (2,394ha), Swartland (1,864ha), Robertson (1,272ha), Breedekloof (705ha) and Olifants River (472ha) Stellenbosch wards Banghoek, Bottelary, Devon Valley, Jonkershoek, Papegaaiberg, Polkadraai Hills and Simonsberg-Stellenbosch Principal Stellenbosch soil types Sandstone (produces more structured wines); decomposed granite (lighter, more focused wines)…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts KWV, The Mentors 2014 Decanter average score: 94/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Tim Atkin MW 96 John Hoskins MW 93 Greg Sherwood MW 93 £14.95 Perold Wine Cellars, Slurp Ripe, opulent and showy, yet lively and fresher than most, offering fine textural balance and finesse against a backdrop of finely polished tannins. Long, classy and focused. Drink 2019-2024 Alcohol 14% Waterford Estate 2015 94 TA 96 JH 92 GS 93 £30 Berry Bros & Rudd, WoodWinters Classic and refined, with appealing aromas of cassis, dried herbs and black plum on the nose. They lead to a fleshy, pure and finely textured palate. Enduring and complex, yet elegant too. Drink 2019-2025 Alc 14.5% Le Riche, Reserve 2015 93 TA 94 JH 92 GS 92 £26.95-£28.99 D Byrne & Co,…

MY PERFECT DAY IN PASO ROBLES MORNING Arise from your lavish bedroom at the Allegretto Vineyard Resort* and greet the morning with a refreshing swim in the saltwater pool, then stroll in the courtyard through the world’s first sonic labyrinth Sound Circle, emitting soothing tones of wind instruments to send you off in state of Shangri-La. Drive over to Law Estate (see p132) to taste current releases in its ultra-modern tasting room, displaying an inside-outside architectural design, with views over neighbouring hilltops. LUNCH Head north on Hidden Mountain Road to Daou (www.daouvineyards.com), where you can treat yourself to the Culinary Pairing Experience that matches Lebanese-inspired cuisine with Daou’s award-winning wines and sweeping views of the Adelaida District. After lunch, stop by Tin City* and visit Aaron Wines to taste the…

Tasting notes decoded Pomegranate Pomegranates are said to originate from the Middle East, but today their juicy seeds are found in drinks and sweet or savoury dishes around the world. Their tart taste can be compared to that of sour cherries or cranberries. Pomegranate can sometimes be expressed by fuller-bodied rosé wines, when their red fruit character combines with high acidity. Spanish rosés often display these characteristics, as with the Pyrene Rosado 2016 from Somontano – a blend of Tempranillo, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Or in this issue’s ‘Value red Burgundy’ feature (see p23), Tim Atkin MW highlights Domaine Truchetet’s Vieilles Vignes Bourgogne Rouge 2016, with its ‘intense raspberry and pomegranate fruit flavours’. You can also find pomegranate notes in red wines with vibrant acidity and a ripe red fruit…