Indholdsfortegnelse for Jan-2019 i Decanter

A month in wine Around the wine world Research highlights potential for UK vineyard expansion Researchers have identified 33,700ha of ‘prime’ UK land suitable for vineyards, many in Kent, Sussex and East Anglia, and most of which are yet to be planted. According to the research team at the University of East Anglia, writing in the Journal of Land Use Science, the study was aimed at improving the UK wine sector’s breadth, resilience and productivity in the face of climate change driving up growing season temperatures. ‘Many existing vineyards are sub-optimally located,’ the study warned. It also highlighted that the amount of land under vine in England and Wales has risen by 246%, to 2,500ha, since 2004. While the study demonstrated global warming’s possible advantages for more northerly growers, it…

Letter of the month Hungary beyond Tokaji CAROLINE GILBY’S RECENT travel guide to Tokaj excelled. However, there is far more to Hungary. For example, there is a wonderful range of Furmint, Olaszrizling and Hárslevelű wines – many of which, like the wines of Sancerre, are terroir-driven, especially in the Balaton region. Hungary is the 17th-largest wine producer in the world, and yet good Hungarian wine is hard to obtain beyond its borders. Lack of knowledge and appreciation in the UK makes it hard for producers to gain a foothold, so their best market is at home. Wine estates often use leading-edge, sustainable techniques and employ young, passionate talent. The result is that Hungarian wine is enjoying a golden renaissance in its motherland. Although some major UK supermarkets now sell Hungarian…

SWEET & FORTIFIED Top 20 sweet & fortified wines for Christmas It’s the ideal time to break out those delightful liquid treats. Andy Howard MW picks 20 of his favourites, arguing that we should all make more of the opportunity to discover the true quality they offer – with or without food ONE OF THE world’s great wine mysteries is why so few people drink sweet and fortified wines on a regular basis. If I am visiting a producer, I’m always keen to see whether they produce wines of this style, though it may take a bit of cajoling for an amazing, delicious bottle to be proffered. It’s a pity, as they often represent the ‘jewels in the crown’ of a particular producer, providing a clear insight into their philosophy,…

THE JUDGES Jane Anson Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent, Anson lives in the region and is an accredited wine teacher at the Ecole du Vin in Bordeaux. Her book titles include Bordeaux Legends, a history of the 1855 first growth estates (Abrams 2013), and Wine Revolution (Quarto 2017). She also writes a weekly column for DecanterChina.com. James Lawther MW A contributing editor to Decanter and Regional co-Chair for Languedoc-Roussillon at the Decanter World Wine Awards, Lawther is an independent wine writer, lecturer and tour guide based in Bordeaux. A Master of Wine since 1993, he has been writing about Languedoc-Roussillon for the last 20 years. Ronan Sayburn MS Sayburn is CEO at the Court of Master Sommeliers Europe, head of wines at private members’ club 67 Pall Mall, and runs his own…

PROSECCO: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES 2017 Spring frosts followed by high temperatures in summer. Volumes down on normal but quality of white grapes was good. 2016 Rain in the spring reduced some yields, but with consistent weather during the rest of the growing season, quality of white grapes was generally high. 2015 A dry spring followed by hot weather in July/August. Whites are less aromatic and intense. Older vintages Prosecco is rarely a wine to keep. Unless Cartizze level, or from a top producer, these should have been drunk by now. Non-Vintage Ready to drink, enjoy while youthful and fresh.…

PROSECCO CONEGLIANO VALDOBBIADENE OUTSTANDING 95–97pts Ca’ di Rajo, Superiore Extra Dry Millesimato 2017 Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Fabio Giavedoni 95 Andy Howard MW 95 Alessandra Piubello 94 £19 Anthony Byrne Established in 1931, Ca’ di Rajo is located in the Piave river valley. The estate stays true to a local system of vine-training now known as Bellussera, which has its roots in the 19th century. Permanent branches (or cordons) are trained in a distinctive fan shape that results in a characteristic rhombus-shaped vineyard design. Extreme care is taken in the vineyard, with grapes harvested by hand at the end of the growing season. As well as a number of Prosecco bottlings, the winery also produces serious red wine under the Raboso del Piave DOC. Fabio Giavedoni This…

EXPERTS CHOICE South American Riesling Plantings and production levels may yet be small, but Riesling has found a home in Chile, Argentina and Uruguay. Patricio Tapia recommends 12 of the best examples For most wine lovers there’s no natural association between Riesling and South America. For Riesling fans, the go-to places are Germany or Austria – or if they are forced to travel to the New World, perhaps Australia or New Zealand. South America can be the source of very good wines, but Riesling doesn’t generally spring to mind when thinking of this part of the world. This is perhaps to be expected. In total, there are barely more than 500ha of Riesling in Argentina, Chile and Uruguay combined. The variety is thought to have arrived in those areas towards…

John Stimpfig ‘At £180 a pop, this is Italy’s most expensive rosé by a mile’ THIS AUTUMN, I was able to tick off another item from my fine wine bucket list. For years, I had wanted to visit the mountainous vineyards of Trento DOC, tucked away in the southern Dolomites above the broadening Adige Valley. Finally, I was presented with the perfect opportunity – an invitation to taste Ferrari’s brand new Trentodoc rosé fizz. The company was created in Trento by visionary founder Giulio Ferrari back in 1902. Very quickly, it established itself as an outstanding sparkling wine producer, specialising in Chardonnay. Since 1952, the house has been owned and impeccably run by three generations of the local Lunelli family. Under their care, Ferrari has quietly grown its plantings of…

In brief ■ UK wine duty rose in line with inflation on 29 October 2018, but Chancellor Phillip Hammond froze duty on beer, spirits and cider. The Wine & Spirit Trade Association (WSTA) called the move ‘grossly unfair’, saying that an effective 3.1% rise in wine duty would cost the industry an extra £90 million. ■ Prince Robert of Luxembourg, fourth generation owner of Château Haut-Brion, has become the 12th member of Primum Familiae Vini (PFV), a collective that brings together some of the world’s ‘leading wine families’. Other members include Joseph Drouhin, Familia Torres, Pol Roger, Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Vega Sicilia, Antinori and Symington Estates. Prince Robert said he was ‘truly honoured and thrilled’. ■ California winery Qupé has been sold to Vintage Wine Estates by Terroir Life…

Andrew Jefford ‘Vintages and their sunshine are everything in Bordeaux’ WINE AS LIQUID sunshine? The idea appeals, especially in the pit of a high-latitude winter. How, though, might we ‘taste’ sunshine? Isn’t it just a fancy way of describing the warming effect of alcohol on the tongue? We don’t talk about ‘liquid sunshine’ in a glass of chilled vodka or Trappist ale, nor in Sancerre or Chablis, though alcohol is present in each; ‘liquid sunshine’ tends to mean red wine served after dusk in firelit rooms by candlelight. Blood-like wine, in other words; wine to warm artery and vein. The comfort of this notion is psychological and metaphorical. It’s a way of mentally appropriating the ease of summer amid the rigours of winter – or respite amid difficulties of all…

The most exciting wines of 2018 Decanter’s experts from around the world named the bottles under £60 that impressed them most this year. After tasting a selection of the nominated wines, our judges compiled the ultimate top 50, across all styles. Tina Gellie reports UNLIKE OTHER END-OF-YEAR summations that compile the highest-scoring or ‘best-ever’ bottles, Decanter’s annual round-up of Most Exciting Wines of the Year is exactly that: wines that really made an impression for their ability to stand out from the crowd, whether that be through quirkiness or classicism. ‘It was a deliciously diverse array of wines – all different, all memorable,’ enthused Sarah Jane Evans MW. Oz Clarke was equally ‘thrilled’ by the line-up. ‘Each glass forced me to realign my tastebuds and refocus my expectations. So many…

Interview Thomas Duroux Since his arrival at Château Palmer in 2004, this instinctive winemaker has converted the Margaux estate to biodynamics and created a second wine. He tells Jane Anson about his quest for quality LOOKING A LITTLE exhausted when we meet, Thomas Duroux is in the middle of the 2018 harvest – but I don’t think it’s the physical work that’s tiring him out. Rather it’s the psychological hit of suffering an extremely low yield when much of Bordeaux is celebrating its good fortune, and as a result being called on to justify his decision to take this most illustrious of Margaux wines into biodynamic farming. Unquestionably, in my book at least, Palmer is making its greatest stretch of wines in living memory right now, easily going toe-to-toe with…

Kick’s picks: a taste of Switzerland 1 Les Fils de René Favre, Grande Année St-Pierre Chamoson Grand Cru Petite Arvine, Valais 2014 92 £20 Ann et Vin, Bottle Apostle, Chez Vin Otley, Reserve Wines, Theatre of Wine Photograph: Lewine Studio The Montrachet of Petite Arvine, produced from one of the greatest Swiss terroirs, Chamoson, which is a steep terraced single vineyard of schist and marble. Fermented in French oak and aged for 18 months, it is smooth and complex with peaches, sea salt and smoke. Drink 2019-2030 Alcohol 14% 2 Château Maison Blanche, Yvorne Grand Cru Savagnin Blanc, Chablais, Vaud 2016 91 £28 Alpine Wines Known for its excellent Chasselas, Château Maison Blanche also produces a moreish and complex Savagnin Blanc. Aromatic with gorgeous notes of truffle, yellow plums and…

STEVEN SPURRIER’S fine wine world Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Man of the Year hand-picks fine wines for drinking now and recommends others to lay down, all priced from £25 upwards FROM THE CELLAR Hommage à Jacques Perrin 1999 Marc Perrin, one of the seven members of the fifth generation to work in the Famille Perrin estates at Château de Beaucastel and across the best appellations of the southern Rhône, was at 67 Pall Mall in London to show a range of Châteauneuf-du-Pape vintages from 2016 back to 1989, which offered convincing proof that Beaucastel’s reputation as the region’s finest estate is fully deserved. The 100ha of biodynamically farmed vineyards are planted with all 13 grapes allowed – Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Vaccarèse, Counoise and Terret…

HAUT-MEDOC: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES 2016 Big, bristling tannins, great freshness, a more architectural feel than the previous year, but with many successes. Best wines are around Pauillac and St-Julien. 2015 Particularly successful in the southern Médoc (and on the Right Bank), so covering a lot of these Haut-Médoc producers. Plenty of sunshine, excellent ripeness, fruit plush and plump. 2014 Again, as this tasting shows, an above average year with some real successes in the Médoc, but uneven. 2013 Weakest recent vintage, very challenging conditions. Some producers managed to bottle fruit-forward, enjoyable wines, mainly through careful selection and sorting, but proceed carefully. 2012 Some tight tannins at first, a classic year rather than exceptional, but lovely fruit up in the Médoc, and many wines that are starting to be enjoyed. 2011…

2010 HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 90–94pts Château Cantemerle 5CC 2010 92 JA 93 JL 89 RS 94 £35.99-£65 Exel, Museum Wines, Raeburn Fine Wines Plush, dark fruit in aroma and flavour, with plenty of extract and a firm tannic base, yet smooth and slick in texture. Still a touch chewy; leave a while. Drink 2019-2029 Alc 13% Château Sénéjac CB 2010 92 JA 93 JL 91 RS 92 £24 Richard Kihl Perfumed, almost New World aromas of blueberry and blackberry jam. Lively and zesty yet wonderfully soft, with finely honed tannins and a fresh, long finish. Super-enjoyable. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13.5% Château Belle-Vue CB 2010 91 JA 93 JL 90 RS 90 £30 Crump Richmond Shaw An intense, cassis-led nose is followed by cedar wood, tobacco and leather characters on the palate.…

2014 HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 90–94pts Château Arnauld CB 2014 91 JA 92 JL 89 RS 91 N/A UK www.chateau-arnauld.fr Delivers clear grip and poise, and boasts an alluring depth of damson and blackberry fruit. The tannins are firm but not drying, and it doesn’t feel overdone. Definite potential here. Drink 2019-2033 Alc 14% Château La Lagune 3CC 2014 91 JA 93 JL 89 RS 90 £27.08/37.5cl Millésima Smoky, toasty nose. The palate is lighter-bodied but smooth and finely etched, with a touch of leafiness lending freshness. Easy to drink, with plenty to enjoy in the medium term. Drink 2019-2029 Alc 13.5% Bernard Magrez, Château La Tour Carnet 2014 90 JA 90 JL 90 RS 90 POA Crump Richmond & Shaw Elegant, appetising and almost Margauxesque, offering classic graphite nuances against a…

PANEL TASTING The verdict Producers were keen to showcase their bruts, as well as the traditional ‘extra dry’ sweeter styles, and the quality came through in the consistent scores, reports Andy Howard MW There were very few disappointments in this interesting tasting, and the anticipated consistency of Prosecco came through as 95% of wines achieved Recommended or higher. The two Italians on the panel are both writers with extensive local knowledge of Prosecco wines and producers. Alessandra Piubello was pleasantly surprised at the quality on show, commenting: ‘We don’t see so many wines like this back home.’ It was encouraging to see a good number of more highly rated wines, with one even rated Outstanding – a pretty rare beast in my experience. This is not to be dismissive of…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 90–94pts Vincenzo Toffoli, Superiore Brut Millesimato 2017 93 FG 92 AH 93 AP 93 £15.95 Davy’s Complex notes of bergamot, saffron and citrus fruits. Rich and mouthfilling with a fine mousse and persistence, and balance on the finish. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 11.5% Santa Margherita, Superiore Brut NV 92 FG 92 AH 93 AP 92 £15 Alivini Attractive sweetness on the palate, which at the same time displays drive and focus. Mineral-charged with bright lemon notes and a firm crsipness. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 11.5% Astoria, CasaVittorino Superiore Brut 2017 91 FG 93 AH 90 AP 90 £14.75-£16.25 Gerrard Seel There’s a range of fruit on show, spanning white peach, fresh mango, elderberry and candied tangerine. Richly fruited on the palate while at the same time showing great freshness. Drink…

Pinotage & Cranberry Sauce INGREDIENTS • 250ml Pinotage • 325g cranberry jelly • 125g dried cranberries • 2 tbsp soy sauce • 1 tbsp cornflour • 3 tbsp water • A pinch of ground nutmeg • A pinch of ground black pepper • 1 whole star anise METHOD 1. Add all of the ingredients except the cornflour and water to a small saucepan and bring to the boil. 2. Boil at high heat for 8-10 minutes until the dried cranberries are nicely rehydrated. 3. Mix the cornflour and water into a watery paste and stir into the sauce. 4. Cook until the sauce thickens and cranberries are nice and plump. Serve warm. NOTE: This sauce can be made two days before needed and stored in a refrigerator.…

Kelly J Hayes My Aspen A magnet for lovers of the outdoor high-life, this world-class ski resort in Colorado also offers year-round appeal with its food and wine culture and stunning vistas, says local resident Kelly J Hayes ‘I CAME FOR the winter but stayed for the summer.’ It’s a line longtime Aspen locals use to describe how a ski sojourn led to a lifetime of four-season splendour in the Rockies. And while it describes my initial journey to Aspen, what has kept me here for 25 years is far more than the joys of regularly skiing four of the world’s top ski mountains. Rather it’s the intoxicating assemblage of natural beauty, athletic adventure, stimulating culture, and a robust community of wine lovers that binds me. Any given day in…

Market watch Worth a second look Investor interest in second wines from top Bordeaux estates drives strong growth in prices for highest-rated vintages, Jane Anson’s analysis reveals Compiled by Chris Mercer SECOND WINES OF top Bordeaux châteaux have shown some of the highest price gains since en primeur release for the very best vintages, newly compiled figures suggest. Fresh analysis by Decanter’s Jane Anson comparing the five Bordeaux vintages of 2016, 2015, 2010, 2009 and 2005 has highlighted the potential returns on offer for buyers of second wines in top years. Liv-ex data covering many of the top Bordeaux wines and spanning those five vintages showed that the 2005 Carruades de Lafite, Le Petit Mouton and Pavillon Rouge have seen the biggest price gains since en primeur release. In pounds…

Krug launches Grande Cuvée six-pack ‘vertical’ Krug has launched a limited-edition case of Champagne containing six consecutive ‘editions’ of its multi-vintage Grande Cuvée blend, from the 161st to the 166th inclusive. Priced at about £1,299, Krug said it has released 500 of the ‘Verticale 1’ cases in the UK. Although Krug Grand Cuvée is a blend of 120 wines, generally spread across at least 10 years, Krug said that each edition was also based around a particular harvest, such as 2005 for the 161st edition and 2010 for the most recently launched 166th edition. Simon Field MW praised the 166th edition when tasting it for Decanter Premium earlier this year, awarding it 94 points.…

Fine wine price watch Below are the most recent merchant case prices (equivalent 12 x 750ml bottles) for wines that are actively traded among a global network of merchants on Liv-ex, the fine wine market. Liv-ex records transactions between its merchant members in the UK, US, Asia and Europe. All prices are in GBP and exclude sales tax. The numbers in red indicate those prices which have changed since last month. The Liv-ex 100 Index Index level at end of October 2018 313.94 | -0.73% The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The majority of the index consists of Bordeaux wines – a reflection of the overall…

What I’ve been drinking this month The best modestly priced sunshine of the week may have been that which glowed inside Château Capbern, St-Estèphe 2015: dense, pure and dramatic, though it certainly needs longer. If money is no object, that Château Margaux 2004 (right) was loveliness itself, with its intricate aromas and open-pored, creamy, whispering grace. Cheval Blanc 2011 is another charmer-in-waiting: mushroomy, savoury, its fruits perfectly pitched between the red and the black. All were served as tasting samples – which I drank, to confirm their luminous qualities.…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Champagne Jacquart Founded in the 1960s, Champagne Jacquart is something of a young buck (you’ll be lucky to find tales of winemaking craft being handed down from generation to generation here), but arguably its relative adolescence is also its core strength. There are no hard-set traditions to adhere to, merely a drive to set its own rules based on the here and now, but also keeping one eye firmly on what’s around the corner. At the helm of its philosophy is Chief Winemaker, Floriane Eznack. She previously plied her trade at Veuve Clicquot but, as with Champagne Jacquart itself, is similarly unencumbered by a winemaking heritage: ‘No one in my family is involved in the wine industry,’ states Eznack. ‘But I think I’ve always been interested in roles…

Anson’s pick: a taste of Château Palmer Château Palmer, Margaux 3CC 2015 98 £272.60-£305 Farr Vintners, Georges Barbier of London (POA), Millésima, Nickolls & Perks, Top Selection (POA) 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot. Silky, ethereal, touches of cinnamon, white pepper. At this point Palmer was certified biodynamic and lowering the use of sulphur, and it’s hard not to make the link with the complex array of aromatics and flavours that are released in the glass here. There is a clear sweetness to the fruit – damson, blackberry, black cherry – along with a slate contraction in the texture. All those words used to express wine really come to life here: you feel the depth and intensity but it takes off, moving upwards through the palate and it’s…

34 FESTIVE BUYS Festive buys With even more recommendations this month and a higher price limit for the special occasion, Decanter’s associate editor Tina Gellie has picked out 34 exciting wines to try over the festive season. All are UK-available and perfect for drinking now Birichino, Pétulant Naturel Malvasia Bianco, Monterey, California, US 2016 91 £27.95 Berry Bros & Rudd A tongue-in-cheek ‘Pétulant’ Naturel: fermenting Malvasia juice is added to Malvasia wine, giving a second fermentation in bottle. Cloudy from the lees, it is an expressive, fun fizz with pretty honeysuckle notes, apricot and passion fruit. Alcohol 13% Tesco Finest, Premier Cru, Champagne, France NV 90 V £19 Tesco Decent fizz at under £20 – particularly Champagne – is always welcome at this time of year, and Tesco’s…

HAUT-MEDOC 2010 & 2014 2010 OUTSTANDING 95–97pts Château Arnauld CB 2010 Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: POA Liberty Wines Located just outside the village of Arcins between Margaux and Moulis, neighbouring both Châteaux Chasse-Spleen and Poujeaux, Arnauld and its 27ha was acquired by the Allianz Group in 2007, having previously been owned by the Theil Roger family of Poujeaux fame. The wine is typically a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, with fermentation in stainless steel then 18 months in 100% new French oak. Jane Anson 95 James Lawther MW 95 Ronan Sayburn MS 95 Jane Anson Here we get to the aromatics that we expect from a 2010 Bordeaux at this stage of its evolution: young, tight, firm, finessed, not yet open. This is excellent;…

THE JUDGES Fabio Giavedoni Friuli-born Giavedoni qualified as an AIS Sommelier before working for a long time in restaurants and wineries in Bologna. One of two contributing editors of Slow Wine Magazine, the guide to Italian wines, he has also published two books: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Un Grande Vino, and Il Piceno e il Pecorino. Andy Howard MW A Master of Wine since 2011, Howard worked as senior wine buyer at Marks & Spencer for six years to 2013. He now runs consultancy Vinetrades Ltd, which focuses on education, investment and sourcing. A frequent contributor to Decanter, key areas of expertise are Burgundy and Italy, and he has a house in southwest France. Alessandra Piubello Piubello is a journalist and writer from Verona. She reports on many aspects of Italian culture,…

Matt’s Savoury Bread Dressing INGREDIENTS • 160g white onion, finely chopped • 110g sourdough bread • 170g celery including leaves, finely chopped • 112g cooked spinach, chopped • 112g melted butter • 30g unsalted roasted cashew nuts, chopped • 6g chopped parsley • Six slices of bacon, diced • 2 tsp fresh sage • 1 tsp salt • ½ tsp ground summer savory (if available) • ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper • Turkey stock METHOD 1. A couple of days before preparing, tear the bread into rough, bite-sized chunks, and leave covered in a bowl to dry a little. 2. To prepare the dressing, fry the bacon in a large frying pan until partially done. 3. Add the onion and half the melted butter. When this is browning nicely,…

Wine Legends Szepsy, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 1999 Tokaj, Hungary A legend because… In 1989, István Szepsy became the winemaker for Royal Tokaji, one of the first foreign-investor companies to produce Tokaji after Hungary threw off Communist rule. The wines were highly acclaimed, but in 1992 Szepsy left to focus on his own label. Even during the Soviet era, he had been able to make small quantities of Tokaji, but he was keen to expand. By 1997 he had about 9ha in some of the region’s best sites. 1999 was an excellent year, and those who tasted it were dazzled. Looking back After privatisation of the vineyards in Tokaj, it was hard for the early investors to find qualified winemakers. Many of the region’s traditional production methods were no longer…