Indholdsfortegnelse for June 2019 i Decanter

Amonth in wine Around the wine world Landmark 2017 vintage declaration for major Port houses In a rare occurrence of consecutive Port vintage declarations, Symington Family Estates and Quinta do Noval have both declared 2017 as a vintage. Symington Family Estates said it was the first time ‘back-to-back’ vintages were declared in the company’s history. The declaration spans the company’s entire Port collection, including Cockburn’s, Dow’s, Graham’s and Warre’s. This was a ‘milestone’ in the company history, a statement said, and ‘the result of two very different but extremely high quality years for Port in the Douro’. 2017 was a hot and dry year with low rainfall, and the harvest unusually early in August. ‘Few wine regions in the world restrict vintage years with such integrity as we do in…

Letter of the month History lesson REVIEWING LAST YEAR’S Decanter issues, I noticed a historic controversy about wineries in Ihile. In his October 2018 article, Glistair Iooper SW mentioned that Silvestre Ochagavía Kchazarreta* was the first to commercially plant French varieties at Ochagavia Winery, in 1851. Gctually this was Iarmen Winery, founded in 1850 by a group of farmers led by Ihristian Lanz. Iarmen was the first to commercialise wine. Ochagavia was founded in Sacul, near Santiago, by Don Silvestre in 1851. Glso in Sacul, Luis Iousiño founded Iousiño in 1856. Krrazuriz was founded in 1870 by Don Saximiliano Krrázuriz, and Ioncha y Toro was founded in 1883. Fabricio Zuliani de Medeiros, Brazil *Clarification: in fact, it was Silvestre Ochagavía Errázuriz (‘Don Silvestre’, grandson of Silvestre Ochagavía Echazarreta) who founded…

Hugh Johnson ‘The VDP has published a brilliantly bold, crystal-clear book’ IT’S A THING wewine writers do; alternate between scratching our heads and tearing out our hair over the public’s (that’s your) indifference to Merman wines. There’s no point in telling you that when I started writing (admittedly half a century ago), Mermany’s hock and moselle were simply the best white wines around. White Hurgundies were a sideshow. How it all went wrong is quite a story; a quite different story from the implosion of the world of Sherry at pretty much the same time. With Sherry there was fraud involved, a crook on a scale you’d scarcely believe. In Mermany it was the cack-handed government (yes, they have them too), who thought it was unfair that some vineyards are…

What I’ve been drinking this month Summer is nearly here and there’s nothing more thirst-quenching (maybe a Port & tonic!) than a bone-dry premium Alvarinho such as Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas. For bone-dry freshness, Filipa Pato’s Nossa Calcário, a 100% Bical from Bairrada, is another year-round favourite. For the ultimate white wine indulgence, though, Niepoort’s Coche Branco is a fabulous Douro blend – an oak-aged, characterful white wine coming from 600m-high, 80-year-old vineyards of Arinto, Rabigato, Códega do Larinho and others.…

Pessac-Léognan & Graves As wiTh muCh of Hordeaux, there were plenty of stresses along the way to the final harvest, with hail then mildew, then drought. so again the important thing is to track individual estates, because there are differences. in general, Pessac is an early-ripening area, which helped lessen the gap between technical and phenolic ripeness, which was an issue for some in this vintage. The excellent summer and autumn weather meant estates could harvest when they wanted, so stylistic differences again came into play. The whites, certainly in Pessac, were much better than i expected – helped by the fact that when the drought continued into autumn, most of the white grapes were already in the cellars. Hut there are few wines exceptional enough to top the brilliant…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE COTES DE BORDEAUX 10 years tasting Report and tasting notes by Jane Anson, Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent The 2019 vintage saw Côtes de Bordeaux celebrating ten years since its creation back in 2008, and its first official appearance on labels with the 2009 wines. It means 10 years since the AOC Côtes de Bordeaux has brought together the winemakers of Blaye, Cadillac, Castillon, Francs and now St Foy, making sense of their common approach to producing deliciously fruity, unfussy, affordable wines that almost invariably have real families behind them, winemakers that live onsite in their estates and work outside in their own vineyards or in their cellars every day. One in every 10 bottles of Bordeaux is from the Côtes, and the last 10 years have seen names like…

Savennières at a glance Appellation Created in 1952 Location Southwest of Angers on the right (north) bank of the Loire. Vineyards coat the slopes perpendicular to the river AP villages Savennières itself sits between the villages of La Possonnière and Bouchemaine, which form the southern and northern boundaries of the appellation respectively Grape Chenin Blanc (Le Chenin is the name of the town’s restaurant) Soils Schist, sand, volcanic-origin soils including phtanite and rhyolite Producers 36 Area Total 140ha; Savennières Roche aux Moines 20ha; Coulée de Serrant 7ha…

Italian grapes in Australia: Morris’ 15 of the best Oliver’s Taranga, Fiano, McLaren Vale, South Australia 2018 91 £16.99 Wanderlust Wine The mother vines for this wine hail from Cantine Bruno in the Avellino region of Campania in southern Italy. Three months on the lees in stainless steel give a buoyant, balanced Fiano that shows plenty of lime leaf and a long lemony tang. Drink 2019-2023 Alcohol 13% Coriole, Fiano, McLaren Vale, South Australia 2018 90 £19.61 Tanners Besides pioneering Sangiovese, Mark Lloyd can also boast Australia’s first Fiano with the 2005 vintage of Coriole. Round and almost glycerol in texture, this layered example offers poached apple and white peach fruits along with a herbal, botanical edge. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 13% La Prova, Fiano, Adelaide Hills, South Australia 2018 89…

ROMANIA Romania: gaining ground It’s a little-understood wine nation with a long, if interrupted wine heritage, but decades of growing interest from foreign producers and a resurgence of domestic talent are seeing it rise again. Darrel Joseph introduces Romania’s main regions and grapes, and selects his top 10 current favourite wines Photograph: Iulian Dragomir/Alamy Stock Photo WiNEs fRom sEvERAl Eastern European countries are – finally – attracting recognition and favour around the world with their authenticity, distinguished character and, especially, their ability to satisfy that desire for ‘something different’. Romania is certainly one of those countries. Although mainly known for its easily approachable, good value wines produced in significant volumes by large wineries such as Cramele Reca¸s, Halewood and Jidvei, its more hidden side is now gaining real ground. impressively…

Rebula in Italy and Slovenia: top picks from Brook 1 Gravner, Ribolla Anfora, Venezia Giulia, Italy 2008 94 £65-£73 The Good Wine Shop, Wayward After 12 months in amphorae buried underground and six years in casks, it’s not surprising that the wine has a dull orange-straw colour. But the nose has pure, zesty, orangey aromas, mirrored on a palate that’s suave and creamy. Very long, with excellent balance. Drink 2019-2030 Alcohol 14.5% 2 Marjan Simčič, Ribolla Opoka, Goriška Brda, Slovenia 2013 93 £33 WoodWinters A single-vineyard macerated wine, aged in oak vats. Splendid nose of rich mandarin and a suave, very concentrated palate that is still assertive and forceful. This has grip and weight, and the finish is long, with excellent balance. Drink 2019-2026 Alc 13.5% 3 Edi Simčič, Rebula,…

The Spurrier selection Wente, The Nth Degree Chardonnay, Livermore Valley, California USA 2015 93 £37-£43.33 Hailsham Cellars, Blanco & Gomez Just 6,000 bottles of this 100% Chardonnay were handcrafted by fifth-generation winemaker Karl Wente from the best sites on his family vineyards: ripe, broad fruit with quite toasty oak, natural vineyard richness and depth and a long, fine finish. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 14% Ventisquero, Pangea, La Roblería Vineyard, Colchagua, Chile 2015 93 £37.50-£45 (2014) Hard to Find Wines, Soho Wine Supply Charismatic chief winemaker Felipe Tosso joins forces with ex-Penfolds John Duval to create a brilliant 100% Syrah from high Apalta vineyards. Beautifully expressed with the floral elegance of Côte-Rôtie and the spice of Hermitage. Drink 2019-2026 Alc 15% Warwick Estate, Trilogy, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2015 92 £28.99 Via UK…

CHILE: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES 2018 Favourable conditions, with moderate temperatures resulting in a promising vintage of harmonious reds. 2017 Abnormally hot vintage including severe wild fires. Despite an early harvest, the wines are marred by the heat. 2016 An excellent vintage, especially for those who opted to pick early. 2015 Noticeably warm vintage yielded ripe, exuberant and succulent reds. 2014 The season started with a frost and finished warm and sunny, resulting in generally good-quality reds. 2013 One of the coolest vintages in recent memory, giving long-lived, sophisticated reds. 2012 A challenging, warm vintage, abnormally humid. Most wines should be drunk now. CHILE WINE GRAPE PLANTINGS Total cultivated area 137,375ha Cabernet Sauvignon 41,156ha; Merlot 11,703ha; Carmenère 10,250ha; Syrah 7,738ha; Malbec 2,249ha; Cabernet Franc 1,578ha; Petit Verdot 863ha Source: Wines of…

THE JUDGES Paz Levinson Levinson is currently head sommelier at Virtus in Paris and works between France and Argentina as a consultant and educator. She was the first Argentinian to pass the Court of  Master Sommeliers’ advanced sommelier certificate, and won the ASI and APAS Best Sommelier of the Americas in 2015. Peter Richards MW Richards is an award-winning broadcaster and writer, with more than a decade on BBC1 television and four books including The Wines of Chile and his own Chile Wine Brief.  He is the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile and, with his wife Susie Barrie MW, he co-hosts the acclaimed annual Wine Festival Winchester. Dirceu Vianna Junior MW Originally from Brazil, Vianna studied forest engineering and law, before moving to London, where he began to work in…

RECOMMENDED 86–89pts COMMENDED 83-85pts ■ Agostino, Familia Gran Reserva, Mendoza, Argentina 2015 85, 14.5%, 2019-2021, N/A UK www.fincaagostino.com ■ Familia Schroeder, Blend, Patagonia, Argentina 2013 85, 14%, 2019, £40.75 Carruthers & Kent, Ellis of Richmond ■ Filus, MCC, Mendoza, Argentina 2016 85, 14.5%, 2019-2020, £39 Gourvid ■ Cousiño Macul, Lota, Maipo, Chile 2010 84, 14.5%, 2019-2020, £52 Amazon UK, Gales of Llangollen, Raffles Fine Wines FAIR 76-82pts ■ Benegas Lynch, Old Vines Blend, Mendoza, Argentina 2012 83 FAULTY ■ Algodon, Premium Reserve Cabernet Franc-Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 2013 (VA) ■ Mauricio Lorca, Inspirado Blend, Mendoza, Argentina 2013 (not clean) ■ Viña El Principal, Andetelmo, Maipo Andes, Chile 2015 (TCA)…

PANEL TASTING The verdict This wide-ranging tasting showed the breadth of Californian Chardonnay styles, which reflects the differing palates of local and international drinkers, notes Stephen Brook Judges declared themselves perplexed but not surprised by this tasting. Perplexed because it was difficult to come to an overall conclusion – but they had already expected to have this reaction. Californian Chardonnay has become extremely diverse in its terroir expression and its winemaking. In the past it was caricatured as buttery and heavy, an opulent crowd-pleaser. Such styles still exist, and were present in the tasting, but they have to sit alongside many other expressions. Is such diversity positive or confusing for drinkers? Alex Hunt MW had no doubts: ‘Variability and diversity are to be welcomed, if only as a myth-buster. There…

My ToP 10 IN NICe 1 Cave de la Tour Cosy wine shop and bar on one of the prettiest squares in Vieux Nice. This is a must-visit for anyone interested in Nice wine, stocking every producer from the region and serving classic Niçois fare at lunchtime, including a traditional stockfish dish every second Friday that has a cult following. www.cavedelatour.com 2 La Cave Bianchi Founded in 1860, Nice’s oldest wine merchant overflows with history. On the site of a former Dominican monastery, the vaulted cellars date from the 17th century and provide a magical setting for private tastings. The daily wine tasting, held around the street-level bar at 6pm sharp, is a relaxed affair. www.cave-bianchi.fr 3 Les Compagnons de la Grappe Photographs: Alphotographic/Getty; Hemis/Alamy; www.lescompagnonsdelagrappe.com Renato…

John Stimpfig ‘To my palate, the real pleasure of claret is in delayed gratification’ IT SKKSS GLSOST egregiously ironic that red Hordeaux’s popularity continues to languish in the doldrums. Having just got back from assessing its newly minted 2018s, it’s abundantly clear to me that it has never made better or more beautiful wines than in recent years. I thoroughly enjoyed the 2018s, which I regard as significantly better than 2017 and in many instances on a par with the excellent 2015 and 2016 vintages. I will most definitely be buying a number of 2018s. The only issues are which châteaux, in what quantities and at what point in time. Sost will not be bought en primeur. I am not alone in deferring my spending away from the ‘hoopla’ of…

In brief ■ During a state visit to France in March, Chinese president Xi Jinping reportedly dined privately with French president Emmanuel Macron in Beaulieu-sur-Mer on the French Riviera. According to Le Figaro, wines served included Champagne Pol Roger’s Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 2000, Joseph Drouhin’s Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet Grand Cru 2011, and Petrus 2002. ■ One of Tuscany’s oldest cooperatives, Chianti Geografico, has been bought by the region’s Piccini wine group in a deal worth €7.2m. Piccini said the deal saved Chianti Geografico from bankruptcy by paying off crippling debts. It plans to invest a further €2m to renovate winemaking facilities and barrel cellars to improve quality at the co-op in the coming years. ■ Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) has ended its eight-year exclusive partnership with ASC…

Andrew Jefford ‘We’re all rooted to a certain spot, tasting from our own perspective’ ANYONE WHO STUDIES art history, or who simply loves great paintings, will be familiar with the problem of perspective. Karly artists placed close figures directly below more distant ones, or sized objects according to their spiritual or thematic importance. Meometrical perspective only came with the Italian Renaissance. Grtists have relished giving viewers the illusion of linear perspective and foreshortening ever since. Perspective, I’ve realised over the last month, may be problematic in the wine world, too. Gs tasters, we’re all rooted to a certain spot, tasting from our own perspective. This point of view is constituted not simply by personal taste, but by our history as tasters, the range of wines to which we‘ve been exposed,…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Champagne Jacquart Mosaïque With a story that began as recently as the early 1960s, Champagne Jacquart has taken full advantage of its relative youth, welcoming both the present and the future with open arms and an open mind, while at the same time holding dear the finest of Champagne’s traditions and practices. Since its foundation in 1964, Jacquart has slowly and precisely built an enviable roster of wisened growers and their precious vineyards, with this formidable pairing proving countless times to be the core pillars of its success. Today it represents impressive and diverse sets of talented feet on the ground which are overseen by award-winning Chief Winemaker, Floriane Eznack, who has been responsible for channelling this expertise since 2011: ‘Embodying the spirit and vibrancy of our wines…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Matching tradition with market savvy How one of the oldest French wine houses Barton & Guestier is conquering markets Founded in 1725, Barton & Guestier is known for tradition. Its flagship estate – the cru bourgeois Château Magnol, from Bordeaux’s southern Médoc – also dates from the 18th century and is a top seller. David Beswick of Corking Wines in Yorkshire, for example, praises its “consistent high quality”. Paying homage to founder Thomas Barton, whose grandson Hugh partnered with Daniel Guestier to create the company name, the Thomas Barton Médoc provides “excellent value, at just over £13 a bottle,” says Ciara Hinton of Winebuyers in London. “It comes across very traditional, down to the 18th century style bottle,” she explains. “Aged in French oak barrels, it has a…

Savennières: eight names to know Château Pierre-Bise You won’t find anyone called Pierre Bise here – it’s the name of a village, a short drive away from Savennières across the Loire. The Papin family has owned this domaine since 1959 and winemaker René Papin is now at the helm. He makes three impressive single-vineyard Savennières: an ageworthy Roche aux Moines, the elegant Clos de Coulaine and impressive Clos de Grand Beaupréau. Damien Laureau If you haven’t yet tried Laureau’s wines, it’s time they appeared on your shopping list. Born to a cereal-farming family in Versailles, he arrived in Savennières in 1999, and has gradually acquired parcels around the appellation including the illustrious La Roche aux Moines. His cuvée Le Bel Ouvrage from schistous soils is pure, intense and precise, while…

AUSTRALIA Italy in Australia: setting down roots Could Italian grape varieties be the next giant leap for Aussie wine? A dedicated band of producers are devoting their best efforts to finding out, seeking the best locations and the right wine styles. Michaela Morris reports, recommending 15 great examples in white and red DiD ThE AussiEs get it wrong? Perhaps shiraz, Cabernet sauvignon and Chardonnay aren’t the right grapes for Down under. surely this is an irreverent, preposterous suggestion. These grapes have enjoyed raging success. Yet it is impossible to ignore the increasing number of labels touting grapes such as Montepulciano, Arneis or sagrantino. While they aren’t threatening the hegemony of French varieties, italian grapes are unequivocally on the rise in Australia. Rather than approaching this new frontier with an overly…

Italian grapes in Australia: Morris’ 15 of the best (continued) 1 Luke Lambert, Nebbiolo, Yarra Valley, Victoria 2016 94 £53.80 (2015) Hedonism Lambert paid his dues in Barolo working at Giacomo Brezza and Cordero di Montezemolo. Roses, currant and raspberry aromas, sweet mossy earth. Firmly moulded palate with exotic tamarind and pomegranate-like acidy kicking in. Drink 2019-2028 Alc 14% 2 Mount Horrocks, Nero d’Avola, Clare Valley, South Australia 2016 94 £23.45-£30.70 Blackrock Cellar, Liberty Wines, No2 Pound Street, Oz Wines, Selfridges, The Australian Cellar, The Fine Wine Co, Vinvm With a judicious 20% new oak, the succulent dark fruit, balsam and wild flowers remain at the fore. Framed by elegant tannins, this deliciously drinkable, mid-weight organic red is a candidate for chilling. Drink 2019-2024 Alc 14% 3 Koerner, La Korse,…

Tourism in Abruzzo: download the Percorsi App Cultural tourism in its widest sense Beauty, history, nature, countryside and wine: these are the ingredients for visiting the region of Abruzzo. The Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo aims to make visiting this lesser-known region of Italy easier to do for visitors, and of course to invite them to visit wineries and taste their wines. In fact, 200 wineries dot the landscape in settings that range from the sea shore to the hills of the hinterland, with the mountains providing a dramatic backdrop. The idea is to link cultural and artistic attractions to the splendour of the countryside and the welcome offered by Abruzzo’s winemakers. The first step, in 2018, was to set up a website, www.discoverabruzzowine.com. At Vinitaly 2019, the next step is…

Joseph’s pick: Romania’s new wave of wine 1 Bauer, Crâmpoșie Selecționată, Drăgășani, Oltenia 2018 91 N/A UK www.cramabauer.com German-born Oliver Bauer makes a sleek, natural yeast-fermented Crâmpoșie Selecționată in a Mosel Riesling style: semi-sweet with low alcohol and white peach, lime and lemon meringue tones. Gentle mineral undertow. Drink 2019-2030 Alcohol 10.5% 2 Liliac, Fetească Regală, Lechința, Transylvania 2017 90 N/A UK www.liliac.com A showpiece Fetească Regală wafting with grapefruit and spice. Elegant mineral-enhanced flavours of yellow grapefruit, elderflower and thyme. Crisp acidity whirls through to the lingering finish. Ripe and delicious. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 12% 3 Budureasca, Premium Tămâioasă Românească, Dealu Mare, Muntenia 2018 89 £ 11.99 Transylvania Wine From vines of 11-40 years old, this fresh, unoaked white (from a Romanian clone of Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains)…

THIS MONTH’S PANEL TASTINGS South American premium red blends & Premium Californian Chardonnay Steven Spurrier’s fine wine world Our consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame Award recipient picks fine wines to drink now and to lay down, all priced at £25 and above Weekday wines By Tina Gellie Want something more adventurous in your midweek wine selection but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? We’ve found 25 exciting wines to try for under £25 South American premium red blends 95 wines tasted An impressive showing, with nearly half of the wines Highly Recommended and four rated Outstanding Premium Californian Chardonnay 55 wines tasted From rich and oaky to lean and brisk, our judges found styles to suit all tastes, if perhaps lacking in star quality Expert’s Choice:…

RECOMMENDATIONS Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s associate editor Tina Gellie has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK for £25 or less Cantina di Gambellara, Monopolio Spumante, Lessini Durello, Veneto, Italy 2017 90 £12.99 The Fine Wine Co This Brut-style fizz with 10g/l residual sugar is made from the ancient Durella grape in the same way as Prosecco, with the second fermentation in tank. It shows ripe, exotic flavours, a crisp apple bite and a mineral finish. An unusual and appealing aperitif. Alcohol 12% Mount Horrocks, Watervale Semillon, Clare Valley, South Australia 2017 93  O £19.25-£23.99 Exel, Hennings, GP Brands, The Wine Reserve, Vinvm Stephanie Toole’s…

ARGENTINA: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES 2018 An excellent vintage: warm, sunny days and cool nights ensured perfect ripening. 2017 Forward, exuberant and harmonious reds despite the long, hot summer. 2016 One of the coldest vintages in a decade, resulting in lighter wines with notably crisp acidity. 2015 A long harvest yielding attractive, juicy reds – especially fresh and vibrant for those who picked early. 2014 Low-yielding harvest and wines with assertive acidity that are ageing well. 2013 A notoriously cool vintage. The top-end wines are ageing gracefully. 2012 Low-yielding harvest due to frost. Those who escaped made ripe, juicy, concentrated reds. ARGENTINA WINE GRAPE PLANTINGS Total cultivated area 220,848ha Malbec 42,999ha; Cabernet Sauvignon 14,666ha; Syrah 12,247ha; Merlot 5,306ha; Cabernet Franc 1,146ha; Petit Verdot 652ha Source: INV-Database…

SOUTH AMERICAN PREMIUM RED BLENDS OUTSTANDING 95–97pts Escorihuela Gascón 1884, MEG, Uco Valley, Argentina 2017 Decanter average score: 96/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Paz Levinson 96 Peter Richards MW 96 Dirceu Vianna Junior MW 96 N/A UK www.escorihuelagascon.com.ar The oldest winery in Mendoza city is in Godoy Cruz, and was a pioneer in wine production in the area. In 1993, the winery was bought by Nicolás Catena, who by 2009 had built a new, modern winery outside the city in Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. MEG is 60% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, the grapes sourced from climatically varied vineyards in Agrelo and Cordón El Cepillo. Aged for 16 months in French oak barriques. Paz Levinson Lovely floral aromas like violets, with black fruits, cassis and blueberries. The palate is textured, with freshness,…

THE JUDGES Stephen Brook Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and has won a clutch of awards for his writing on wine. The author of almost 40 books, his works include The Wines of California, which won three awards. Brook also fully revised the last two editions of Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion. Alex Hunt MW Hunt joined the wine trade as a van driver for Oddbins while studying at Oxford. In 2000, he joined Mayfair Cellars, before moving to Berkmann Wine Cellars in 2006, where he is currently purchasing director. He became a Master of Wine in 2010, having submitted a dissertation on ripeness trends in California. Tim Jackson MW After falling in love with wine in Chablis in 1994, Jackson became a Master of Wine…

AUSTRALIAN BLENDS Australian multi-regional blends Free from strict appellation laws, Australia is known for its creative winemaking – and nothing demonstrates this better than its multi-regional blends, says Sarah Ahmed Fine wine is virtually synonymous with single vineyards, estates and individual regions. But not in Australia, whose winemakers are famously free of constraints. Take the iconic Penfolds multi-regional blend Grange. Creator Max Schubert attributed a visit to Bordeaux with sparking ‘the idea of producing an Australian red wine capable of staying alive for a minimum of 20 years’. During the plane journey home, Schubert reasoned: ‘If I was careful enough in the choice of area and vineyard… I’d be able to make the type and style of wine I wanted.’ His rationale still informs Penfolds’ approach today, no matter how…

YOUR KENT ADDRESS BOOK ACCOMMODATION Eastwell Manor Imposing Neo-Elizabethan manor house renovated by spa specialists Champneys. Bag the gorgeous, generous Hugo de Montford Suite. www.eastwellmanor.co.uk Sissinghurst Castle Farmhouse Handsome seven-bed Victorian farmhouse B&B, located on the National Trust estate and run by Frazer Thompson, CEO of nearby Chapel Down winery, and his wife Sue. www.sissinghurstcastle farmhouse.com The West House Restaurant with Rooms Located behind the 16th-century weaver’s cottage with its Michelin-starred cooking, in picturesque Biddenden. Four stylish bedrooms, each with a different theme. ‘Scandi’ is a favourite, but there’s fun to be had in ‘Rock ‘N’ Roll’. www.thewesthouserestaurant.co.uk RESTAURANTS The Fordwich Arms This recently transformed pub in the well-preserved, tiny rural town of Fordwich hit the headlines when ex-Clove Club Dan Smith and team won a Michelin star 10 months…

READERS’ QUERIES Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge Average vine age In the producer profile on Remírez de Ganuza (March 2019 issue), Matt Walls provided tasting notes for the 1994, 2001 and 2010 Remírez de Ganuza Rioja. In each note the average age of the vines is 60 years. As these wines span nearly 20 years I wondered if that would not push the average age of the vines up for the 2010. Had there been replanting to keep the average age down? Adam Stevens, by email José Ramon Urtasun replies: If we were talking about a single-vineyard wine, you are right that it would make absolutely no sense: if the vines were 60 years old in 1994 they should be…

What I’ve been drinking this month A variety we’ll see more of in future is Petit Manseng; its ‘out-ofzone’ results in places like Languedoc, Virginia and New Zealand are encouraging and consistent with the home profile. The challenge is its sheer force of character; that’s why most dry Jurançon is based on the softer and more pliant Gros Manseng. Not this wine: the La Canopé Jurançon Sec 2016 from Domaine Cauhapé is a pure Petit Manseng picked in mid-November. It’s magnificent: pristine apple, lemon and pineapple in a frame of great structure, sap and sinew.…

Tasting Notes 1 Château Magnol 2016 The same blend as the 2015, this vintage exhibits more red than black fruit with some graphite. Not as rich as the 2015, it may be more precise. The tannic edge requires several years cellar aging before ideal drinking. Château Magnol 2015 This blend of 48% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Cabernet Franc exudes both richness and mentholated freshness, with agreeable plum fruit. Even better the next day, with a long finish. 2 Sancerre Les Silices 2017 A noble Sauvignon Blanc, this wine exudes wet stone and white peach, with a finish marked by fresh grapefruit. 3 Côtes de Provence Tourmaline Rosé 2018 Blending 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault and 20% Syrah, the new rosé reveals subtle, floral expressions. The refreshing palate is delicate…

Reading the results Jane Anson tastes all en primeur wines non-blind. This allows her to take into account her experience of the wine’s heritage and likely development, and ensures a level playing field. Many top growths do not submit their wines to generic tastings, meaning it is impossible to taste such wines blind. Wines are marked on the 100-point scale. For full tasting notes of all the wines Jane Anson tasted and for the latest pricing news, please visit Decanter.com/premium Wines are ordered by commune, then by score, with wines of the same score listed alphabetically. The value wines are Anson’s predictions of wines likely to punch above their weight when prices are released. Classifications (at the bottom of each page) have been added where appropriate. Cru bourgeois châteaux have…

Sauternes & Barsac THESE APPELLATIONSHAD the same issues to deal with in the first half of the year as the rest of Hordeaux in terms of mildew and hail, with many estates losing significant potential production by mid-July, when the second of the hailstorms hit. When the weather turnaround occurred, estates could relax... but not for long, as soon the drought came. Extended dry and sunny weather during harvest makes everyone happy in Hordeaux – except for producers in the sweet wine regions. september saw just 0.5mm of rain fall in sauternes; not enough to kick-start botrytis, but dry and sunny enough to keep the grapes ripening and building sugars. The noble rot process only really got going in mid-october, when light showers finally arrived. Picking continued through until the…

The dry side of Chenin: Gibb’s top Savennières picks 1 Château Pierre-Bise, Roche Aux Moines 2015 96 £20.50 Lea & Sandeman Subtle nose with floral scents. You just feel like you want to sink into it: gorgeous in the mouth thanks to a year on the lees, while the acidity blossoms rather than acting like a steel rod. Long, harmonious and meditative. Drink 2019-2030 Alcohol 14% 2 Damien Laureau, Le Bel Ouvrage 2015 96 £53 H2Vin Intense and focused, mainly from schistous soils, giving the wine a dart-like precision. Fermented and aged in barrel (10% new), yet there’s no sense of oakiness nor creamy overtones. Yields of 28hl/ha; concentration of quince and citrus with just enough flesh to add curves. Drink 2019-2030 Alc 13.5% 3 Eric Morgat, Clos Serteaux 2015…

Italian grapes in Australia TOP FIVE WHITE ITALIAN GRAPES (by estimated tonnes harvested, 2018) Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (aka Moscato Bianco) 22,322t Prosecco (officially known as Glera in Italy) 7,082t Moscato Giallo 2,785t Fiano 2,075t Vermentino 1,959t Others Arneis, Bianco d’Alessano, Biancone, Falanghina, Friulano, Garganega, Grechetto, Greco, Grillo, Inzolia (officially Ansonica), Malvasia Istriana, Pecorino, Ribolla Gialla, Trebbiano group, Verdicchio, Verduzzo, Zibibbo Source: Wine Australia TOP FIVE RED ITALIAN GRAPES (by estimated tonnes harvested, 2018) Sangiovese 3,996t Lambrusco family 1,884t Dolcetto 973t Nero d’Avola 898t Montepulciano 760t Others Aglianico, Aleatico, Barbera, Brachetto, Colorino, Lagrein, Mammolo, Marzemino, Nebbiolo, Negroamaro, Piedirosso, Sagrantino, Schioppettino, Teroldego, Uva di Troia…

Italian grapes in Australia: Morris’ 15 of the best (continued) 4 Architects of Wine, Lagrein, Langhorne Creek, South Australia 2017 90 POA The Knotted Vine Crafted with 30% whole bunches and spontaneous fermentation, unfined and unfiltered with just a touch of SO2 added at bottling. The black cherry fruit is punctuated by olive and fennel, meeting mouth-caressing layers of soft ripe tannin. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 13.3% 5 d’Arenberg, The Athazagoraphobic Cat Sagrantino-Cinsault, McLaren Vale, South Australia 2013 90 £100 Villeneuve Wines Chester Osborn describes 2013 as a year with lots of Barolo-like tannins. Still backward, the nose hints at dried baking spice and heather. Rich blue fruit is engulfed by firm structure, and the finish is savoury. Drink 2020-2026 Alc 14% 6 Henschke, The Rose Grower Nebbiolo, Eden Valley, South Australia…

Jean-Claude Mas at a glance Born 1964 in Béziers, son of a grower from Pézenas Education Business school in Lyon and Nancy; MBA at Aston University (UK) Career 1988 commercial attaché in Miami (USA); 1990 export director for northern Europe, Motul; 1992 export manager, Bernard Magrez’ William Pitters group (Bordeaux); 1996 commercial director, Domaines Virginie (Béziers); 2000 created Domaines Paul Mas Family Married to Alexandra. Four daughters: Astrid, Elisa, Apolline, Estelle Other interests Vintage cars, motor sport, Taekwondo…

CHILE Top 30 Chilean wines under £25 The Chilean wine scene is buzzing with innovation and development, but it can be hard to know where to look to find the best examples of what’s new and exciting. Peter Richards MW has his finger on the pulse, here highlighting 30 of the best-value whites and reds on UK shelves today CogNiTivE DissoNANCE is defined as an uncomfortable mental state resulting from conflicting cognitions (notions, beliefs, thoughts). it’s usually resolved, Collins cheerfully informs us, ‘by changing some of the cognitions’. Chile is a victim of cognitive dissonance. The entrenched perception of Chile is of a country providing keenly priced, reliably decent, consistent wine at the value end of the spectrum. The dissonance (and resulting unease) comes when looking beyond these narrow parameters…

STEVEN SPURRIER’S fine wine world Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame Award recipient picks fine wines to drink now and others to lay down, all priced from £25 upwards FROM THE CELLAR Antinori, Tignanello 1999 On 28 February I had the honour to attend the Lord Mayor’s Banquet at London’s Mansion House. The theme was ‘Cuvées Exceptionnelles’, with a specially chosen four-course menu to precede an auction in aid of the Lord Mayor’s Appeal; this was directed with energy by Sotheby’s Lord Dalmeny, and raised £350,000. The aperitif was the magnificent Pol Roger, Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 2006, followed at dinner by three Chardonnays: Marchesi Antinori, Cervaro della Sala 2014 showing purity and charm with 10% Grechetto; Leeuwin Estate, Art Series 2012 as stunning as ever;…

PANEL TASTING South American premium red blends The status of ‘icon’ has to be earned, but what exactly does a wine have to achieve in order to join this upper echelon of New World styles? Dirceu Vianna Junior MW explains Nineteen years ago, when Argentina was first making its mark with simple, juicy and easy-textured Malbecs, Nicolás Catena had the dream of creating an Argentinian wine that could compete with the world’s greatest reds. He released the 1997 vintage of his Catena Zapata Cabernet Sauvignon in a series of global blind tastings, pitting it against other 1997s including Château Latour, Opus One, Caymus Special Selection and Antinori’s Solaia. His wine regularly took first or second place. In Chile, Errazuriz’s Eduardo Chadwick feels a super-premium wine that carries the aspiration to…

PANEL TASTING The verdict The judges found impressive longevity among Chile’s top Cabernet blends, and finesse and energy in many of the Argentinian Malbec-based wines, finds Dirceu Vianna Junior MW Considering that all the wines in this tasting were at a super-premium level, the judges were justifiably expecting something special. The strike-rate was impressive, with more than half rated Outstanding or Highly Recommended. Overall there was an admirable degree of consistency, and there was plenty to get excited about. Most wines displayed excellent concentration and fruit purity with refined texture, depth and complexity. The majority exhibited sophisticated structure with little over-extraction, and good balance despite alcohol levels at 14.5% or above. Oak use has improved significantly, though there were examples of wines displaying excessive oakiness, and the majority of wines…

SOUTH AMERICAN PREMIUM RED BLENDS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 90–94pts Son Vida, Alegría, Paraje Altamira, Argentina 2015 94 PL 95 PR 95 DVJ 93 £29.49-£42 Gaucho Wine Shop, Latin Wines Online Brooding dark fruit on the nose, subtle black pepper and floral notes. Beautifully structured with refined tannins, crunchy acidity, and all carried off without being too heavy. An utter pleasure to drink. Drink 2019-2029 Alc 14.5% Andeluna, Pasionado Cabernet Franc, Gualtallary, Uco Valley, Argentina 2015 93 PL 93 PR 93 DVJ 93 £31.50-£38.49 Exel, Great Wines Direct, Hallgarten Wines, Strictly Wine Sweet, creamy cocoa oak, forest fruits and a hint of leafiness. A refreshing style, showing good varietal character and a pleasant savoury note on the finish. Drink 2019-2026 Alc 13.5% Casarena, Icono Blend, Mendoza, Argentina 2011 92 PL 91 PR…

CALIFORNIA: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES 2018 Steady ripening through a mild summer, especially in Sonoma, gave a fine crop of excellent whites. 2017 A complicated year with a cool spell in August, then record-breaking heat in early September, but most whites had been picked by then. 2016 A cool summer without heat spikes proved excellent for white wines. 2015 The summer was hot and dry, but there was helpful rainfall before harvest, which was extremely early. Chardonnay of good quality, picked by late August. 2014 Cooler than average though with heat spikes in early summer. Excellent quality in Napa and Sonoma. 2013 A normal growing season with good yields and high ripeness.…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 90–94pts Ridge Vineyards, Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains 2016 Decanter average score: 92/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Stephen Brook 93 Alex Hunt MW 92 Tim Jackson MW 91 £105 Berry Bros & Rudd Sweet, buttery, apple pie nose, plus apricot and quince. Sleek attack, fresh and poised, taut, with good fruit concentration and an appealing silkiness. There’s some tangy acidity on the finish that cleanses the palate. Drink 2020-2025 Alcohol 14.5% Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Upper Barn Vineyard, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County 2015 92 SB 91 AH 94 TJ 91 £87.99-£90.99 D Byrne & Co, Highbury Vintners, Nickolls & Perks, WoodWinters Lush and smoky stone-fruits nose with a sense of underlying power. Density and grip on the palate with impressive weight of fruit. Caramel notes come through on the persistent…

Chrissie McClatchie My Nice While neighbouring Cannes and Monaco may sometimes steal the limelight from Nice, the capital of the French Riviera delivers charm and authenticity in abundance, says Chrissie McClatchie With the sWeeping Jromenade des Anglais as its centrepiece, France’s fifth largest city is the real star of the Côte d’Azur, a vibrant destination with established tourist pedigree. Hice first stole my heart during a gap year in 1999, but I officially made the city home in 2007. There’s something about the colour and light here – especially the brilliant magenta of bougainvillaea in bloom against the sparkling Mediterranean Sea – that I find intoxicating. While the constant hum of tramline construction attests to the dynamic nature of Hice today, most of the attractions here are easy to navigate…

Decanter WINE LEDENDS Opus One 1991 Napa Valley, California, US A legend because… In retrospect it still seems astonishing that a great Hordeaux personality such as Haron Philippe de Rothschild, owner of Château Mouton Rothschild, should embark on a joint venture in Napa Valley with visionary local producer Robert Mondavi. The baron’s first approach was made in 1970, but it wasn’t until 1978 that the deal was sealed. New vineyards in Oakville were planted for this venture, with Tim Mondavi – and from 1986, Mouton winemaker Patrick Léon – overseeing the winemaking. The first vintage was 1979, with 1991 widely recognised as an exceptional year. Photograph: Mike Prior Looking back In this year the magnificent new winery for Opus One was inaugurated. The new facility was gravity-operated, which in 1991…