Indholdsfortegnelse for July 2019 i Decanter

Anson’s top 40 wines These wines are the top scorers in their appellations from a tasting of 67 Bordeaux 2009s hosted by UK merchant BI Fine Wines & Spirits in London, in February. For full tasting notes of all the 2009s tasted, see Decanter.com/premium Médoc PERFECT SCORE Château Margaux, Margaux 1er Cru Classé 100 Still extremely young, retaining its power and impact for another five or 10 years. Smooth silky tannins, great vibrancy and concentration of blackberries and cassis, and a latent generosity and confidence that builds through the palate, with violet and peony florals that come through on the finish hinting at more to come. Tingling minerality and a pulse of electricity. Up with the best ever from the estate. In the meantime, drink the 2009 Pavillon (93…

BORDEAUX & FOOD We all know that red Bordeaux is a perfect partner for roast lamb or beef, but what if you want to stretch your culinary horizons further? ‘I’m keen on pairing white Bordeaux, particularly those with Semillon, with pork in a creamy sauce,’ says Arnaud Pasdeloup, head sommelier at Chez Bruce. ‘They have the weight and power to cope with the dish, while cutting through the richness.’ Lighter white Bordeaux with a high proportion of Sauvignon Blanc are good partners for Asian seafood salads and stir-fries perfumed with coriander and lemongrass – flavours that often find an echo in the wines. ‘Chicken with barley miso goes well with Bordeaux with a bit of age,’ says Jeandre du Toit, sommelier at Zuma Dubai. ‘The umami and sweetness works with…

Producer profile Château Montrose A series of dedicated individuals have brought innovation and visionary thinking to this St-Estèphe property during its 200-year history, and today its green credentials are setting a new standard in Bordeaux. Elin McCoy finds out more Photograph: Nigel Blythe/Cephas AN GCDHCABN IH 18 Dune 2015, 1,600 guests at Fa Fête de Fa Fleur streamed out from dinner in Château Gontrose’s 11m-high barrel cellar to watch blue and silver fireworks shoot up into the sky like sparkling fountains. Nhe lavish finale to the Pinexpo wine show felt like a celebration for the latest chapter in this Mt-Estèphe second growth’s 200-year story. Nhe new era began in 2006, when billionaires Gartin Bouygues and his brother Ilivier purchased Gontrose for €140m and began pouring in more millions on a…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Finding Bordeaux AOC gems in challenging vintages 2017 may not be in the same category as top red Bordeaux vintages like 2005, 2010, 2015 or 2016, but one can find excellent values. A terrible late April frost wiped out at least 40% of the potential crop: the lowest quantity of red Bordeaux produced since 1991. The frost damage was so widespread that the government allocated funds to help estates that had been especially hard hit. Public spending helped pay for new vine plantings to replace those destroyed by frost, for example. But for properties that were able to make wine, many 2017 reds are ripe, bright and smooth, as the tasting notes show. International wine consultant and harvest observer Bill Blatch said it best: many have an “underlying…

Top of the rot: Lawther’s pick of Sauternes & Barsac 1 Château Climens, Barsac 1CC 2009 97 £74.95-£115 Armit, Bottle Apostle, Christopher Piper, Field & Fawcett, Frazier’s, Jeroboams, JN Wine, Lay & Wheeler, Montrachet, The Sampler, Waitrose Cellar Rich and opulent, but the Barsac terroir keeps it reined in. Exotic fruit notes, baked apple and confit fruit. Pure, velvety and unctuous but with a bite of citrus zest freshness coming in behind. Biodynamic estate. Drink 2019-2050 Alcohol 13.5% 2 Château d’Yquem, Sauternes 1CCS 2014 96 £121 (ib)-£168.33/37.5cl Crump Richmond Shaw, Farr Vintners, Justerini & Brooks, Millésima, Montrachet, Nemo Wine Cellars Lively, pure and fresh aromas, pear and citrus notes. So rich and concentrated on the palate but with a flare of acidity that provides tension and draws the wine out…

John Stimpfig ‘There’s no doubt that 2008 in Champagne is genuinely superlative’ IS THK 2008 vintage in Ihampagne the greatest ever? 2002 might have something to say about it, but there’s no doubt that ’08 is genuinely superlative. In recent months, I’ve tasted latest-release 2008 offerings from the likes of Gmour de Deutz, Hillecart-Salmon, Hollinger’s La Mrande Gnnée, Iristal, Dom Pérignon and Pol Roger’s Iuvée Sir Winston Ihurchill. Gll are utterly mesmerising. To my palate, they possess so many positives: freshness, charm, purity of fruit, complexity, salinity, precision, balance and length. They are also seductively approachable now. Kqually, there’s little doubt that the 2008s will develop and broaden with style and grace. The vintage itself started somewhat inauspiciously. ‘We had spring frosts, followed by hail. July was cold and rainy,…

In brief ■ Château Palmer is using a ‘music box’ to help Merlot vines grow, according to CEO Thomas Duroux. By emitting ‘carefully calibrated vibration waves’, Duroux said the box could benefit flowering and growth, or even control diseases such as mildew. Based on Joel Sternheimer’s theory linking music notes to plant protein synthesis, the experiment is in its second growing season of a three-year trial. ■ Fresh research has examined potential links between young sommeliers’ olfactory training and improving brain health. Twenty-five sommelier students outperformed the control group of 29 people at identifying a range of wine aromas within about two months of beginning their training, according to a study led by Dr Johannes Frasnelli PhD of Quebec University. ■ Tuscan wine cooperative Cantine Leonardo da Vinci has invested…

Letter of the month What happens in Vegas… RKGDITM SGRISG FITKTTI’S ‘Sy Las Vegas’ (April 2019) I was reminded of an enjoyable visit many years ago to the city of excess. Sy wife and I decided to dine at Picasso in the Hellagio – the wine list was extensive and, after deciding on food, I was pounced upon by the sommelier. Heing wary of US wines, I asked his advice and he came up with a number of choices, brought samples for each course and we chatted throughout the night. Hy the end of the evening I had a real appreciation of what US wine could offer and thanked the sommelier. He told me how difficult it was in Las Vegas, with customers rarely asking his advice and high-rollers ordering…

SPANISH WHITES Explore Spain’s undiscovered whites The source of many well-loved reds, Spain’s wide diversity of terroirs and innovative winemaking mean there is also great quality to be found among its modern white wine styles. Sarah Jane Evans MW introduces five of the best varieties to try and recommends three excellent examples of each to taste SPAIN’S RED WINES are a safe bet on any wine list – sometimes just too safe, when the same denominations keep appearing and there is so much more to be enjoyed. There’s more to life than Tempranillo and its synonyms. When it comes to whites, the story is the same. There is so much more to Spain’s whites than the too-often seen Piura (Macabeo) from Lioja and Perdejo from Lueda. In the following pages…

ALSACE RIESLING Alsace: top Riesling terroirs The varied grands crus of Alsace produce sublime Rieslings – if you know where to look. Stephen Brook takes you on a tour of the best sites from south to north and recommends some stellar bottles to buy STANDING IN ONE of Alsace’s 51 grands crus, the owner nodded towards his parcel and explained: ‘As you can see, the soil here is granite,’ before adding unhelpfully, ‘but of course it’s a different granite from the hill behind it.’ That’s the problem with Alsace. Its grand cru system is admirably based on terroir, but Alsace simply has too many of them. Burgundy, the model for the Alsace system, is relatively uniform: limestone soils and east-facing sites, with the mid-slopes offering the best and most consistent…

McCoy’s pick: a taste of the Kutch range 1 Kutch, Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, USA 2016 90 £42.68-£44 Justerini & Brooks, Swig I don’t like this Sonoma Coast Chardonnay quite as much as Kutch’s first foray into a white, from the Santa Cruz Mountains. This one, 100% Bohan Vineyard fruit, is powerful and intensely lemony, almost like a lemon-drop candy. Drink 2019-2024 Alcohol 12.5% 2 Kutch, Falstaff Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, USA 2017 95 £37.08 (ib) Farr Vintners This vineyard 13km from the Pacific near Freestone lies just under the fog line where the climate is colder than Burgundy, and its Pinot is always the last one Kutch picks. The wine is dark, rich and super appetising, with lots of exotic Asian spices and an earthy, savoury, almost meaty personality.…

THIS MONTH’S PANEL TASTINGS Value Douro reds & New Zealand oak-influenced Sauvignon Blanc Steven Spurrier’s fine wine world Our consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame Award recipient picks fine wines to drink now and to lay down, all priced at £25 and above Weekday wines By Tina Gellie Want something more adventurous in your midweek wine selection but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? We’ve found 25 exciting wines to try for under £25 Value Douro reds 76 wines tasted The pick of the £8-£20 sector, revealing the quality and value available from Portugal’s key fine wine region New Zealand oak-influenced Sauvignon Blanc 53 wines tasted High scores for these less-familiar, more food-friendly styles that showed ‘harmony, texture and complexity’ Expert’s Choice: Croatia & Slovenia By Caroline…

Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s associate editor Tina Gellie has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK for £25 or less Marks & Spencer, Rosado Cava, Catalonia, Spain 89 £7 Marks & Spencer From Freixenet’s Castell Blanch winery, this sweetly red fruited Garnacha-Trepat blend is a perfect party fizz, offering great value compared with the Prestige and Vintage Cavas. It shows nice leesy notes from 2016 and 2017 base wine and the 8.9g/L dosage is balanced by fresh acidity. Alcohol 12% Bruno Cormerais, Vieilles Vignes, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie, Loire, France 2015 91 £12.95 Lea & Sandeman From old vines, this shows characterful lees-aged complexity,…

PANEL TASTING The verdict Portugal’s indigenous varieties offer a flavour experience like no other, and this great-value selection is the ideal way to discover what makes the wines tick, says Sarah Ahmed The majority of wines from this tasting hailed from 2017 and 2016 – years that were ‘generally declared’, which is to say outstanding for vintage Port. In the past, this might have meant slim pickings for Douro table wines, especially the ‘back of the queue’ value reds. However, the Douro Valley now has no shortage of vineyards earmarked or planted expressly for wine (as opposed to Port). In this solid tasting line-up, 34 of the top 46 reds (86pts+) came from 2017 or 2016, reinforcing the fruit and tannin quality of these vintages. Typicity was impressive. As fellow…

PANEL TASTING HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 90–94pts Quinta do Portal, Colheita 2016 93 SA 95 BM 93 NO 90 £16.45 ABS Wine Agencies, Alexander Wines, Ex Cellar Juicy and bright-fruited, with a satisfying concentration of blueberry and raspberry fruit. Perfumed, elegant and well put-together. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 13.5% Quinta Nova, Pomares 2017 92 SA 92 BM 94 NO 90 £10 Slurp Highly drinkable and mellow, with supple tannins enveloping a fine concentration of cherry and plum fruit. Not a big wine, but a good early drinker. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13.5% Quinta Nova, Unoaked 2017 92 SA 90 BM 91 NO 94 £12 Slurp A classic Douro profile: rich and generous blueberry fruit accompanied by a firm tannic structure and balancing acidity. Has the potential to improve. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 14% Quinta Nova,…

NZ SAUVIGNON BLANC: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES 2018 Hottest summer on record, leading to early ripening. Coastal regions affected by ex-tropical cylones in February, delaying harvest and elevating botrytis pressure. Ripe Sauvignon. 2017 Difficult season with a cool start and poor summer. Wet, warm and cloudy autumn created botrytis pressure. Early picked crops were the most successful. 2016 Record crop. Warm, often humid. Harvest period was dry and sunny. Excellent whites and highly attractive reds. 2015 Dry and warm. Small, low yielding crop after early frost and cool flowering. Ripe, perfumed and fully flavoured wines. 2014 Record early vintage. Dry and warm summer with little disease pressure. Excellent wines across the board. 2013 Touted as the vintage of a lifetime with a warm, incredibly dry summer and autumn. Ripe, concentrated wines…

NEW ZEALAND OAKED SAUVIGNON BLANC OUTSTANDING 95–97pts Cloudy Bay, Te Koko, Marlborough 2015 Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Rebecca Gibb MW 94 Roger Jones 96 Philip Tuck MW 95 £33.95-£49.90 Exel, JN Wine, Roberson, The NZ Cellar, WoodWinters Cloudy Bay was established in 1985 by David Hohnen, who had previously founded Margaret River’s Cape Mentelle in 1970. Sauvignon Blanc was the first wine produced by the winery and it quickly became instrumental in gaining New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc a worldwide reputation for quality. Having cemented its status as an iconic brand, the estate was bought by Louis Vuitton-Moët Hennessy in 2003 and is Greywacke, Wild, Marlborough 2016 95 RG 95 RJ 95 PT 94 £21.95-£28 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Carruthers & Kent, Exel, Oddbins, Roberson, The NZ Cellar, Vin…

MY BARCELONA My Barcelona In one of the world’s great capital cities, bursting with life and limitless options for food, drink and culture, it’s best to have the advice of a local expert. David Williams picks 10 of his top spots David Williams THE GREAT DILEMMA of the city-break visitor: we all want to get off the beaten track, but in doing so we beat out new tracks. In our search for the ‘real’ or ‘authentic’, we play our part in changing the very character of neighbourhoods that made us want to visit them in the first place. This paradox is felt particularly keenly in Barcelona. Over the past 10 years the Catalan capital has struggled with the problem of balancing mass tourism (and the income it brings) with the…

Tasting notes decoded Gooseberries A traditional fruit of the English garden or hedgerow, hairy-skinned gooseberries are genetically related to currants, though they are at the most sour-tasting end of the spectrum. In the wine lexicon they belong in the ‘green fruit’ category, alongside green apple, pear and grape. These are generally less sweet than red, black or stone fruits, displaying a primarily tart character instead. Written by Laura Seal Gooseberry is typically found in aromatic white wines – it’s a useful descriptor for tart tastes and floral/tangy scents. Sauvignon Blancs may have gooseberry notes, particularly those made in cool-climate regions such as Marlborough in New Zealand or France’s Loire Valley. ‘Cat’s pee on a gooseberry bush’ is commonly cited in describing the smell of Sauvignon Blanc. Gooseberry notes do not…

WINE LISTS World’s finest Bordeaux wine lists It’s not hard to find Bordeaux on a wine list, but it’s far more challenging to locate restaurants that offer a good selection of red and white options, with bottles from a wide range of châteaux to suit every budget. Natasha Hughes MW goes in search for the world’s best IF YOU’RE READING this, there’s a good chance that you’re partial to the occasional bottle of Bordeaux. It’s also pretty much a dead cert that, as a Bordeaux lover, you’ve been to restaurants and found the wine list disappointingly short on bottles from your favourite region. Those with a taste for the very best wines – and the wallet to afford them – have always found fertile hunting grounds in the weighty, leather-bound…

EVERYDAY CLARET My favourite everyday claret What do wine insiders reach for when they want a good-value red Bordeaux? Clinton Cawood asks wine writers, buyers and sommeliers for their personal recommendations Oliver Sharp Purchasing, BI Wines and Spirits Château Marsau, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux 2015 £12.50 (ib)-£19.17 BI, Laithwaite’s, Lay & Wheeler, Millésima, Montrachet ‘Sarsau boasts arguably the best terroir in the Iôtes de Francs. Nhis is produced entirely from Serlot that’s developing some good vine age (average about 30 years), and which is allowed to flourish without too much new oak influence. It’s not trying to be grand, but just a truly delicious, drinkable Light Bank-style claret.’ Jan Konetzki Director of wine, Ten Trinity Square Private Club Château du Champ des Treilles, Grand Vin, Ste-Foy-Bordeaux 2015 £19.95-£21.50 The Good…

Château Montrose: a timeline 1778 Etienne Théodore Dumoulin purchases Château Calon Ségur, which includes land that becomes Montrose 1824 Dumoulin’s son sells Calon Ségur, but keeps Montrose 1855 Montrose ranked second growth in the 1855 classification 1866 Dumoulin’s children sell to businessman Matthieu Dollfus 1887 Jean-Jules Hostein, co-owner of Château Cos d’Estournel, buys the estate 1896 Montrose passes to Hostein’s son-in-law, Louis Victor Charmolüe 1942 RAF flyer mistakenly bombs the vineyards, destroying large sections 1984 Introduction of the second wine, La Dame de Montrose 2006 Martin and Olivier Bouygues purchase the estate and hire Jean-Bernard Delmas 2007 Renovation and replanting of the property begins 2010 Montrose purchases 22ha of neighbour Château Phélan Ségur’s vines, which were formerly part of Montrose in the 19th century. A third wine, Le St-Estèphe de…

DRY WHITE My top 20 dry white Bordeaux Made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes, dry white Bordeaux ticks many boxes for wine lovers, with satisfying styles ranging from drink-it-now fresh to barrel-fermented keepers. Andy Howard MW selects his 20 favourite bottles IfNEH NBE ‘JIIL relation’ when considering the Hordeaux wines, the region’s dry whites are certainly on the up. Miven Hordeaux’s red wine dominance today, it is hard to believe that until the 1950s this was a white wine region. Entre-Deux-Gers, and the Memillon grape, dominated with vast quantities of lacklustre whites produced using traditional winemaking methods. Nhe devastating frost of 1956 changed everything, with large areas replanted to red varieties and a new approach to the market. Hack in 1990, while I was discussing the market for white…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Pioneers and trailblazers Meet the innovators who put Washington State wines on the map The second largest wine producer in the US, Washington State is storming onto the world’s stage. With 970 wineries, 23,472ha of vineyards and 14 distinct growing regions, Washington has come a long way in a short period of time. Pioneering wineries blazed a trail for the region to be successful by making remarkable wines of quality even from the first commercial plantings in the 1960s. Today the region is growing at a breakneck pace, with one new winery opening every single week, on average. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay and Riesling dominate close to 80% of the region’s plantings, but there’s still plenty of room for experimentation. In fact, the region is only about…

Andrew Jefford ‘Koshu remains a rare bird, even on eclectic British wine-shop shelves’ G PLKGSURK POSTPOTKD can be a pleasure intensified. I finally reached Japan the week before I write this column, after dreaming of the place for decades. The cherries were in flower. Their clouds of white, exploding like magicians’ handkerchiefs, lit spotless Tokyo by day and night alike. G notice in the island park near where I stayed (Hama-rikyu Mardens) implored visitors who had come to see the blossoms ‘TOT to party or make noise in the garden. Let’s be considerate to others.’ I held my breath in wonder. In Yamanashi Prefecture, the wild cherries punctuated the leafless woods on the mountain edges: pink clouds in sombre dusk sky. Understanding the intricacy of Japanese culture is not for…

ALSACE RIESLING Brook’s pick: the best of Alsace Grand Cru Riesling Wines are ordered, as in the main text, south-to-north according to the location of each grand cru, and then by point scores 1 Zind-Humbrecht, Rangen Grand Cru Clos St Urbain 2015 95 £65.88-£71.50 Goedhuis & Co, H2Vin The apple and apricot fruit nose is now becoming more reserved, but the palate remains evidently rich and weighty, with great power and concentration that’s almost burly. Yet it’s also very mineral and full of extract, which gives some welcome austerity and restraint, and has a very long finish. Biodynamic. Drink 2020-2040 Alcohol 13.3% Schoffit, Rangen Grand Cru Clos St Théobald 2016 93 £30 Savage Selection Exceptionally lush, smoky nose, packed with stone fruits and mandarin aromas. The attack is lean, precise…

Wakefield’s green credentials Wakefield is 100% family-owned by the founding Taylor family, and is very much estate-based in the dry, warm Clare Valley – factors that no doubt have helped the family in its quest to become as environmentally sensitive as possible. Committed to sustainable practices, it claims to take all available measures to prevent or eliminate as far as possible the production of waste or pollution. A key part of the strategy is the adoption of an environmental management system (EMS) and a strategic plan. The company received ISO certification for its EMS in 2009; behind this is a risk management program providing a framework for ongoing improvements. It addresses the core risks of water consumption, waste, noise and air emissions, energy, storage and soil management. The company also…

Mourbys’ five top Santorini wineries to visit Estate Argyros After 100 years of trading from an old canava in Episkopi Gonia, Argyros built a modern winery with an architecturally striking visitor centre. Out in the dusty fields there are vines that date back to the 1850s, some of the oldest on the island. The fourth generation of the family now produces three Assyrtikos, an Aidani, a full-bodied red from the Mavrotragano grape and three Vinsantos. • Tastings start at €15 (£12.90); www.estateargyros.com • To buy: Estate Argyros, Assyrtiko, Santorini 2016 (see p84) or the entry-level Atlantis line (see p89). Gaia Gaia produces 130,000 bottles a year of white wines on Santorini, while its reds come from secondary vineyards in the Peloponnese. In 1994, the company set up this winery on…

STEVEN SPURRIER’S fine wine world Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame Award recipient picks fine wines to drink now and others to lay down, all priced from £25 upwards FROM THE CELLAR Petrolo, Galatrona 2006 From a hilly estate in the Colli Aretini, the southeastern part of the Chianti Classico region that was delimited in 1716 by Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici as one of Tuscany’s best four wine-producing zones. Luca Sanjust produces wines with great vigour and depth that repay long ageing. His Torrione cuvée, named after the tower standing on top of Roman foundations (the only other one remaining in Tuscany being at Castello di Argiano near Montalcino), is a Sangiovese-Merlot-Cabernet blend, while his Campo Lusso is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the flagship…

THE JUDGES Sarah Ahmed Ahmed is an awarded wine writer, educator and judge specialising in Portugal and Australia. As well as publishing her own site, thewinedetective. co.uk, she has contributed to Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book, Jancis Robinson MW’s The Oxford Companion to Wine and The World Atlas of Wine. Beatriz Machado Machado is wine director at award-winning luxury wine hotel The Yeatman, in Porto, where she has been responsible for developing a 1,300 reference wine cellar – the world’s most comprehensive collection of Portuguese table wines and Ports. She graduated in viticulture and enology at UC Davis in California. Nick Oakley Oakley is the founding director of Oakley Wine Agencies, one of the UK’s leading specialist importers of Portuguese and northwest Spanish wines, which today counts most major supermarket…

PANEL TASTING The verdict With quality on display across the board, this tasting proved that New Zealand’s oaked styles of Sauvignon Blanc deserve attention. Rebecca Gibb MW shares the highlights Famed for its distinctive rainbow of flavours and its succulent acidity, Marlborough is the home of New Zealand Sauvignon, representing 89% of the country’s plantings, and its dominance was reflected in this tasting, accounting for three-quarters of entries. While New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has made its name in its pure, fruit-filled expression, there have long been barrel-influenced examples since Hunters wowed the crowds at the 1986 Sunday Times Wine Club with its Fumé Blanc. However, oaked examples have remained a sideshow in the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc story. This tasting showed that the sideshow should be brought on to the…

PANEL TASTING HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 90–94pts Auntsfield, South Oaks Barrel Fermented, Southern Valleys, Marlborough 2016 93 RG 93 RJ 94 PT 91 £25.49 New Generation Firm and structured yet with great precision, revealing a citrus-laden style enriched by notes of tropical fruit and nicely integrated, nutty oak. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 13.5% Blind River, Awatere Valley, Marlborough 2018 92 RG 89 RJ 95 PT 93 £11.99 Majestic Classic gooseberry aromas on the nose welcome a vibrant yet rounded palate, which is enlivened by a flush of fresh acidity and well-judged oak. This is still very youthful. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 13% McElhinney, Cause & Effect Barrique Fermented, Marlborough 2017 92 RG 93 RJ 89 PT 95 £12.99-£17.49 Naked Wines Hugely aromatic, chewy and crisp, with notes of struck match over snow pea and…

MY PERFECT DAY IN THE COTE DES BLANCS MORNING After stocking up during breakfast at Magna Quies*, drive for less than half an hour to reach Vertus, at the south of the Côte des Blancs. Visit Duval-Leroy* for a tour of its expansive winery, including a tasting overlooking the thousands of casks stored in a warehouse of Indiana Jones proportions. From there, meander north – via the back roads if you’re feeling adventurous – taking in more of the villages in the area such as Oger, with vineyards controlled by Piper-Heidsieck and Roederer, and Avize, boasting the renowned winemaking school Avize Viti Campus (www.avizeviticampus.fr). Photographs:Champagne/Alamy;FrancoisNascimbeni-Stringer/Getty;www. royalchampagne.com;www.le25bis.com LUNCH & AFTERNOON From Avize, drive less than 20km north to the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa*, which has some of the Champagne region’s…

MY TOP 10 IN BARCELONA 1 Xurreria Trébol Photographs: Gelia/Getty; www.foodemperor.com ; Paz Domínguez Ara A perfect Barcelona day – or night out – wouldn’t be complete without a quick fix of xurros (the Catalan for churros), the long, thin fried doughnuts with or without fillings of cream or chocolate, but always best dipped into a thick, sticky cup of dark drinking chocolate. For variety and sheer fatty satisfaction, few are better than Gracia’s Xurreria Trébol. +34 932 18 36 54 2 L’Anima del Vi The original, and (competition from the excellent Bar Brutal notwithstanding) still the heartbeat of Barcelona’s natural wine scene, this El Born bar run by a Franco-Catalan couple has a brilliantly chosen list of European natural wines, to be enjoyed in a cosy wood-panelled…

Château Pichon Baron 2005 Pauillac 2CC, Bordeaux, France A legend because… Although this splendid second growth is now acknowledged as one of the top wines of the Gédoc, this was not always the case. Ontil the 1980s Jichon Baron was in poor shape and its wines were inconsistent. Nhe 19th-century château lay empty, and its owners, the Bouteiller family, lacked the resources to invest in the estate, including the vineyards, which had dwindled to around 30ha. Cn 1987, the Bouteillers sold to ARA Gillésimes, whose estates were run by Dean-Gichel Cazes, owner of Château Fynch-Bages. Muddenly there was immense investment: machine-harvesting and the use of herbicides and pesticides were halted, the château was renovated, a circular underground winery was constructed and new purchases brought the vineyards to 72ha. Kuality improved…

SIX OF THE BEST: WHERE TO LOOK FOR GREAT-VALUE BORDEAUX Bordeaux wine bar L’Univerre (www. univerre-restaurant.com) has an outstanding repertoire of local wines starting at €25 for a Canon-Fronsac 2012. In Paris, Le Petit Sommelier (www. lepetitsommelier-paris.fr) has a mighty list, but mark-ups are reasonable. At the lower end there’s a vertical of Domaine de l’A, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, with prices ranging from €79 (2013, 2014) to €125 for the highly rated 2010 vintage. Under the heading ‘Bordeaux, so un-cool it’s cool’, London’s Noble Rot Wine Bar (www.noblerot.co.uk) offers a selection of more than 50 Bordeaux, ranging upwards from £35 for a Château Beynat, Castillon 2016. Also in London, the five branches of wine bar Vinoteca (www.vinoteca.co.uk) list a well-priced, if brief, selection of Bordeaux. Go with a group…

Ronan Laborde at a glance Born 1980 in Paris Education Notre-Dame de St-Croix; graduated EDC Paris Business School with a masters in management in 2003 Career Moved to Bordeaux in 2003. Today he runs the Clinet estate, Domaines Pajzos in Tokaj, and a négociant company that produces Ronan by Clinet, a Bordeaux wine that was launched with the 2014 vintage, working with producers across Castillon, Bourg, Lussac St-Emilion and the appellation of Bordeaux, with the wines made in their new and extremely impressive winery in Pomerol Family Wife Monique Bailly, three children Hobbies Running, art, wine, cars; Monique also breeds Welsh ponies at their home in Salleboeuf…

GOOD VINTAGES What makes a good Bordeaux vintage? Vintage variation in Bordeaux is less marked than in the past, thanks to advances in winemaking – but that’s not the whole picture. Sebastian Payne MW considers the factors that help to make certain years greater than others, and asks whether the definition of a ‘good vintage’ has changed over time THE LATE DENIS Dubourdieu, former winemaker, professor of oenology at the University of Bordeaux and recipient of the Decanter Hall of Fame Award in 2016, said there were five conditions that make a perfect vintage for red Bordeaux. One and two: early, rapid flowering and fruit-set during weather that is sufficiently warm and dry to ensure pollination and predisposal towards simultaneous ripening; this gives the potential for a timely crop of…

Château Montrose: McCoy’s top picks Château Montrose, St-Estephe 2CC 2016 97 £121.67 (ib)-£221.67 Asset Wines, BI, Corkr, Farr Vintners, Grand Vin, Great Eastern Fine Wines, Millésima, Montrachet, Richard Kihl A stunning dark-fruited wine, one of the best from the vintage. Just about everything you’d want in a great Montrose: a perfumed nose of violets and blackcurrants, pure fruit with a salty mineral savour, concentration and a velvety texture, but also lift, freshness and finesse. It’s just 37% of the crop. Drink 2027-2055 Alcohol 13% Château Montrose, St-Estephe 2CC 2009 96 £183.33 (ib)-£237.60 Asset Wines, Berry Bros Exchange, Corkr, Corney & Barrow, Crump Richmond Shaw, Genesis Wines, Highbury Vintners, Lay & Wheeler, Montrachet, Paramount Vintners, Richard Kihl, Roberson, Veblen Wine, Wilkinson Vintners Dense, suave and the definition of opulent, this has…

SAUTERNES A fresh debate What determines freshness in Sauternes? Is it down to terroir? Vintage perhaps? Or maybe it’s the winemaker’s influence? James Lawther MW considers the relative impact of each of these factors MY FIRST SAUTERNES love was Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1983. I was so enamoured with its vibrancy and citrus and tropical fruit fragrance that I bought two cases for what today seems a very derisory price. Thirty-six years on and the colour may have changed to amber and the aromas become more confit, but there’s still a wonderful tangy tension. Good Sauternes may be rich in residual sugar, but an important part of its beguiling quality is the balance brought by perceived freshness. To this day I am unaware of the residual sugar content and total acidity in…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Twenty vintages of Mirto from Ramón Bilbao One idea, one philosophy, one wine Twenty years have passed since the creation of Mirto, the flagship wine of the new team which took over the helm of Bodegas Ramón Bilbao. From the outset, Mirto lined up alongside the vanguard movement which has changed the course of Rioja wine in recent years. In 1998, with the arrival of the Restoy Zamora family, owners of the famous Licor 43 brand, a new era opened up at Bodegas Ramón Bilbao. The company began as a growers’ winery, went through a transition period in the 1980s, and by the late ‘90s was making wines with a classical Rioja style. The new owners had the firm intention of changing course and appointed a young team…

INTERVIEW The Decanter interview Jamie Kutch A circuitous route it may have been, but his singular vision and determination to succeed have taken this former New York trader and ‘wine geek’ to fully fledged California winemaker, reports Elin McCoy AT A SPRAWLING Sonoma warehouse complex, I look for the secret sign, Ipal Moon, that lets me know I’ve arrived at Kutch Wines, one of the top producers of elegant, new-style California Jinot Hoir. Winemaker Damie Kutch emerges, wearing a three-day beard, quilted vest, and his trademark grin complete with dimple. His close-cropped hair is flecked with grey, but he looks younger than his 45 years. Inside, he shows off shiny fermentation tanks and stacked barrels occupying a corner of the huge, spotless custom-crush facility,…

Prosecco at its best: Morris’ top 10 1 Adami, Col Credas, Rive di Farra di Soligo Brut, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore 2017 95 £17.50-£21.25 Astrum Wine Cellars, Millésima Calcareous clay soil on an almost vertical slope soaring up to 400m. Beautifully perfumed, this is all meadow flowers and alpine streams underpinned by nectarine. Breezy and delicately persistent. Drink 2019-2021 Alcohol 11.5% 2 Nino Franco, Grave di Stecca Brut 2013 95 £23.83 Harvey Nichols, Lay & Wheeler From a single vineyard in the township of Valdobbiadene; six months on lees. Captivating marzipan, biscuit and thyme with a flinty chalkiness. Complex and ageworthy. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 12% 3 Bortolomiol, Grande Cuvée del Fondatore, Motus Vitae Brut Nature, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore 2016 94 £20.85 Tannico From a windy site in San Pietro di Barbozza.…

Hooke’s pick: a taste of Wakefield Estate 1 Wakefield, St Andrews Riesling, Clare Valley 2015 95 £20.70-£21.99 Fareham Wine Cellar, House of Townend, Oz Wines, The Australian Cellar Intense lime-flower, lemon-juice aroma, fresh and vibrant, delicate and restrained. It’s tight and dry, clean and delicate in the mouth, with a soft, seamless flow. Crisp acidity gives an appetising finish. A fine wine of great harmony. Drink 2019-2027 Alcohol 12.5% Wakefield, Estate Riesling, Clare Valley 2016 87 £12.50-£12.99 Amps, Hennings, Oz Wines, Penistone Wine Cellars, Secret Bottle Shop, The Australian Cellar, Wadebridge Wines Meadow hay, silage and lightly toasty forward-developed aromas. The palate is soft and full, round and ample. Quite overt. An open style for early drinking. The acid grips the gums a bit, and the finish is dry and…

Island white: Terry Kandylis’ top 10 Assyrtikos from Santorini 1 Karamolegos, Ancestral Vines 34 2017 96 £28-£30.49 Christopher Keiller, Eclectic Wines, Noel Young, Wine & Greene, WoodWinters 100% Assyrtiko from very old vines. On the nose it’s a volcano in a glass: crushed stones and a chalky-spicy nature reminiscent of a great Chablis, with wild flowers and citrus fruit in the background. On the palate there’s grapefruit and tangerine too, with salinity and oyster shell complexity. Phenomenal wine, truly world class: wonderful to drink now or keep. Drink 2019-2028 Alc 14% Volcanic Slopes, Pure 2015 95 £36.17 (2014) Clark Foyster 100% Assyrtiko. Gently aromatic nose with lots of ripe nectarine, peach and apricot nuances – almost tropical. Precise, taut and mineral, almost salty, and very citrusy with a green apple…

The Spurrier selection Weingut Schätzel, Riesling Kabinett, Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany 2017 92 £29 Shepherd Market Wine House, The Huntsworth Wine Co, Top Selection This Riesling, from red slate soil on ultra-steep, south-facing slopes, ferments and matures in a 670-year-old cellar to produce a floral, fresh and pure vineyard wine, with just 7.5% abv, the 42g/l sugar and 11.5g/l acidity in perfect balance. Quite lovely. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 7.5% Domaine de la Source, Rouge, Bellet, Provence, France 2015 92 £27.25 Yapp Bros The Bellet vineyards cover just 70ha from a theoretical 650ha high above Nice to make it a rarity outside the local restaurant scene. This lively local Folle Noir (80%) is fleshed out with Grenache to produce a delightfully herbal, earthy red well suited to summer drinking. Drink 2019-2025 Alc…

DOURO REDS: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES 2018 Extreme weather (drought, rainfall, hail, heat) scythed production. Low yields mean the best wines will be concentrated. A growers’ year; be selective. 2017 Exceptionally dry, warm and early (picking began in August). Flavour and tannin ripeness were advanced, but acid levels remained high, resulting in inky, well-concentrated, bright-fruited wines. 2016 A wet winter and spring, hot, dry summer and welcome mid-September showers produced favourable ripening conditions. Excellent, well-structured reds with good acidity. 2015 An even year produced consistent, very balanced wines, with lovely fruit and smooth, ripe tannins. Drinking well now. 2014 Unsettled weather throughout the year and the wettest September for 80 years resulted in less concentrated, juicy wines, the best elegant. Drier, the Douro Superior fared better. 2013 Productive year. Promising until…

VALUE DOURO REDS OUTSTANDING 95–97pts Aliança Vinhos de Portugal, Foral dos Quatro Ventos 2017 Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Sarah Ahmed 95 Beatriz Machado 95 Nick Oakley 95 £9.49 Kwoff, ND John, Wild & Lees, WoodWinters Founded in 1927 in the town of Sangalhos, 88km to the south of Porto, Aliança has been part of the Bacalhôa wine group since 2007. With 600ha spread across estates in five regions from the Douro all the way down to the Alentejo, Aliança is one of Portugal’s largest producers. Maçanita 2017 95 SA 94 BM 95 NO 96 £16.50 Exel António Maçanita is known as one of the most dynamic winemakers in Portugal – after spending three years in Bordeaux, Australia and the Napa Valley, he returned to the…

PANEL TASTING New Zealand oaked Sauvignon Blanc While its claim to fame may be fresh and fruity Sauvignon, New Zealand’s winemakers are now experimenting with more varied and nuanced styles. Rebecca Gibb MW reports If you think New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc can only be fashioned in one style it’s time to taste the country’s leading variety in its increasingly varied interpretations. The fruity yet green style for which the country has become world famous is still a mainstay, but winemakers are now seeking to make Sauvignon Blanc that is less reliant on primary fruit aromas and more interesting texturally. Sauvignon Blanc producers are achieving a sophisticated, savoury alternative using a variety of methods, which include allowing wild yeast to do its job on rather cloudy juice in tank, French oak…

THE JUDGES Rebecca Gibb MW Gibb spent six years living in New Zealand, where she became a Master of Wine, graduating top of her class and winning the Madame Bollinger medal for excellence in tasting. Her first book The Wines of New Zealand was published in 2018. She also runs wine events and has a consultancy business The Drinks Project. Roger Jones Jones and his wife Sue own The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant, where he combines chef duties with a love of wine. Jones frequently travels to Australia, New Zealand and South Africa, food and wine matching; he set up The Tri Nations Wine Challenges to promote wines from these countries. Philip Tuck MW Philip Tuck MW has been in the wine trade for over 30 years, since joining…

EXPERTS CHOICE Slovenia & Croatia They may share a border and much political history, but today these are very different countries – which is reflected in their distinct and exciting wines, says Caroline Gilby MW Time is a great lens to view the landscape and culture of a country, combining both the soil and climate, but also the human factor: the people who create the wines. Slovenia has just a tiny Adriatic coastline and is otherwise surrounded by Austria and Hungary to the northeast, Italy in the northwest and Croatia to the south. It’s a jewel of a wine country, with stunningly beautiful, hilly vineyards divided into three main regions. Primorska in the west enjoys a Mediterranean climate and is particularly famous for its richly complex whites from international grapes…

YOUR COTES DES BLANCS ADDRESS BOOK ACCOMMODATION Les Grains d’Argent, Dizy Set between Epernay and Reims, this is a relative newcomer after a major refurbishment, and the contemporary but comfortable design throughout is a pleasing contrast to the rural setting it finds itself in. The food is also first-class, having recently entered the Michelin Guide. www.lesgrainsdargent.fr Magna Quies, Epernay A little grander than its Parva Domus cousin further along the Avenue de Champagne, this larger townhouse has a more modern aesthetic, with a hearty breakfast, warm hosts, and particularly inquisitive chickens wandering around in the courtyard. There’s also a fantastic view of the De Castellane tower (left). www. magnaquies-epernay.jimdo.com Parva Domus, Epernay Nestled across from Pol Roger on the Avenue de Champagne, this traditional French townhouse offers a collection of…