Indholdsfortegnelse for July 2020 i Decanter

Bordeaux Left Bank 2017 in bottle: Anson’s top-scorers Starting with reds, wines are listed in descending score order, then alphabetically by producer; price guides shown are approximate, at time of writing. Wines are widely available across the market: for availability, please consult your usual specialist merchants Red 1 Château Latour, Pauillac 1CC 98 It’s fairly unusual in 2017 to find the bright blue-violet reflections around the rim of the wine that you find in years like 2010 and 2016, but it is here in abundance. Still extremely young, knitted, closed up and holding tight to its cassis and bilberry fruits at this point. This was the first year when Latour was working fully organically, although not certified until 2019. This is a big-framed Latour and will need at least a…

A taste of Château Lafleur: Anson’s pick 1 Château Lafleur 2016 100 £835-£1,075 (ib) Armit, Cru, Fine & Rare, Justerini & Brooks , L’Assemblage, Lay & Wheeler, My Wine Cellar, Roberson A long way from being ready to go – I would suggest at least another six years – but it is going to be worth the wait for this wine. I’ve tasted it now on several separate occasions, and every time been blown away by its purity, succulence and precision. Blackberries, blackcurrants, liquorice, rosemary, aniseed and tight grilled tannins, all offset by violet aromatics. Serious, powerful, sets its own pace. Drink 2026-2045 Alcohol 14.3% Château Lafleur 2000 100 £1,300-£1,566 (ib) Armit, BI Wines & Spirits, Crump Richmond Shaw, Fine & Rare, Grand Vin, My Wine Cellar, Seckford Wines, VinQuinn…

MOUTON ROTHSCHILD Planted area 83ha red, 5ha white Planted to Reds 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot Second wine Le Petit Mouton Established 15th century Owners Philippe Sereys de Rothschild, Julien de Beaumarchais de Rothschild, Camille Sereys de Rothschild (fifth generation since Nathaniel de Rothschild bought the estate in 1853). Director, Philippe Dhalluin; technical director, Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy; consultant, Eric Boissenot Commercial strategy En primeur…

Brook’s dozen: St-Julien at its best 1 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2CC, 2016 97 £116.67 (ib)-£201.67 Averys, Bushby Fine Wines, Christopher Keiller, Cult Wine, Grand Vin, Millésima, Montrachet, Nickolls & Perks Bruno Borie and technical director Emmanuel Bonneau crafted this exquisite wine together in 2016. The nose is ripe but still stern, with oaky blackcurrant and blackberry. Very concentrated, but also velvety and succulent, it shows admirable tension, muscle and depth. Very youthful and chewy, but not extracted – and it retains that quintessential St-Julien finesse. Drink 2025-2050 Alcohol 13.6% 2 Château Léoville Las Cases, 2CC 2015 96 £123.33 (ib)-£196.67 Cadman, Cult Wine, Davy’s, Farr Vintners, Goedhuis & Co, Millésima, Montrachet, My Wine Cellar, Nemo Wine Cellars Las Cases at its imperious best, a Cabernet-based wine vinified in old oak vats then…

A taste of the Boissenot magic 1 Château Capbern, St-Estèphe 2016 92 £17.50 (ib)-£32 Cru, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, Four Walls, Millésima, Montrachet Exudes joy and precision, with a rich, generous nose of dark, ripe fruit and a juicy but fine aspect to the palate. The tannins are well honed and a bright acidity gives lift, freshness and length on the finish. Aged for 18 months in 60% new oak barrels; includes 2% Petit Verdot. Same ownership as Calon-Ségur, where Eric Boissenot also consults. Drink 2023-2035 Alcohol 14% 2 Château Fourcas Hosten, Listrac-Médoc 2016 90 £14 (ib) Cru Since 2006 there’s been huge investment from new owners at this property, with Eric Boissenot a strong influence on decisions. This is every bit a poised and elegant wine, with a…

AT A GLANCE: CARMENERE, MALBEC & PETIT VERDOT Carmenère Total plantings 56ha Flavour profile Green bean if underripe; spice, exotic notes Characteristics Late-ripening, irregular production, low acidity, light but fine tannins Application Blends Malbec Total plantings 1,791ha Flavour profile Fruity (dark fruit), floral Characteristics Productive, good colour and acidity, zesty fruit, structured Application Single variety, blends Petit Verdot Total plantings 1,093ha Flavour profile Dark fruit, floral (violet), spice, pepper Characteristics Late-ripening, productive, deep colour, tannic power/ structure, good acidity Application Blends, single variety…

ST-EMILION & POMEROL: THE FACTS St-Emilion Area under vine 5,300ha Bottles per year 30 million Number of producers 678 Soils Limestone, clay, sand Permitted grapes 79% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon; Malbec, Carmenère, Petit Verdot Price per hectare €200,000 to €2.6million (2017) Pomerol Area under vine 800ha Bottles per year 4.2 million Number of producers 135 Soils Clay, gravel, sand Permitted grapes 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon; Petit Verdot, Malbec Price/ha €1.5million (2017)…

THE JUDGES Jane Anson Anson is a Decanter contributing editor and the DWWA Regional Chair for Bordeaux. She lives in the region and has written books including Inside Bordeaux (£60, BB&R Press, April 2020), an in-depth study of the region, and Bordeaux Legends (Abrams 2013), a history of the 1855 first growth wines. Andy Howard MW Howard is a Decanter contributing editor and Decanter World Wine Awards judge. Having become a Master of Wine in 2011, he now runs his own consultancy business, Vinetrades Ltd, which focuses on education, investment and wine sourcing. Howard was formerly a wine buyer in the UK retail sector for 30 years. Tim Triptree MW Triptree has been a judge at DWWA since 2017. He is the international director of wine and spirits at Christie’s,…

Wine storage at a glance How does it work? Most major wine merchants offer storage. As a price guide for those choosing to go private, London City Bond’s Vinothèque charges £11.16 annually per 12-bottle case, or £75 ex-VAT minimum for accounts ‘holding 80 bottles or less’. Why it matters Temperature and humidity-controlled storage affects price. Buyers also ‘ascribe more value’ to proven authenticity and provenance, according to Jamie Ritchie at Sotheby’s. ‘There’s a premium [at auction] for full cases,’ he adds. Think about costs when buying Put simply: ‘Price appreciation [on wine] has to go faster than rental costs’, explains Max Lalondrelle, fine wine purchasing director and Bordeaux buyer at Berry Bros & Rudd.…

WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTH There are some great Pinot Noirs in British Columbia – but the white-wine cousins prosper here, too. Clos du Soleil, Middle Bench Pinot Blanc 2018, with its floral scents and pristine, stone-fresh flavours, was one of the best ‘value’ wines I tasted in the Okanagan. Phantom Creek, Pinot Gris 2017, meanwhile, made with consultative help from Olivier Humbrecht MW, was succulent, weighty and low-acid, with quince and marmalade flavours: a delicious contrast to the ‘Grigio’ style of most Okanagan Pinot Gris (the most widely planted white variety in the valley).…

WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTH I’d stashed a few bottles of the Lioco, Hanzell Vineyard Chardonnay 2014 from Sonoma Valley in the cellar and decided to check in on them. These are the oldest continuously producing Chardonnay vines in California, and Lioco was the only other winery Hanzell sold this fruit to, with the 2014 vintage marking the end of the contract. It’s a brawny, powerful iteration of these old vines, with aromas of baked apples, cereal and raisins. The palate is rich, forward and creamy but balanced, like an old-school California Chardonnay but done very well.…

Vintage verdicts Map: Maggie Nelson 2017 A very hot and dry summer, though some beneficial rain fell by early September. An early harvest of concentrated Barbaresco wines. Excellent overall, but some may be too extracted. Rating: 5/5 2016 A warm autumn fully ripened the grapes, which remained healthy. A superb year, giving structured and harmonious Barolos that will age well. Rating: 5/5 2015 Overall, this vintage delivered excellent and approachable wines, and the Barbaresco riservas, while more structured, may not give more pleasure than the regular bottlings. Rating: 5/5 2014 A rainy summer resulted in a problematic vintage, although growers who did not panic made some excellent wines. With very few exceptions, though, not an obvious vintage for Barolo riservas. Rating: 4/5…

Evans’ picks: Spanish whites to age 1 Rafael Palacios, As Sortes Godello, Valdeorras, Galicia 2017 95 £44-£51.50 Handford, Hedonism, Noble Green, NY Wines of Cambridge, The Good Wine Shop, Q Wines Work by Rafael Palacios since 2004 on his plots or sortes – traditionally inherited by growers by lot – has blossomed to a model pyramid of quality. The As Sortes sits in the middle, which could suggest moderation, however it’s anything but moderate. This Godello is succulent, intense, exceptionally powerful and very long lived. Hold out for big brother Sorte O Soro if you can find it and afford it, but this is also a super-satisfactory choice. Drink 2021-2030 Alcohol 14% 2 Remelluri, Blanco, Rioja 2016 94 £59.99-£71.10 AG Wines, Hedonism A modern classic: a nine-variety white Rioja blend…

A taste of Thymiopoulos: Evans’ picks 1 Thymiopoulos, Atma White, Naoussa, Macedonia 2019 90 £10.99-£12.99 Jeroboams, Roberson, The General Wine Co, VInoteca Original, summery blend of a direct press of Xinomavro (that’s to say, a blanc de noir) with about one-third of the white Malagousia. The wines are made separately and blended later. Xinomavro gives the aromatic, exotic Malagousia the crunchiness it lacks. Altogether very appealing. There’s a mouthwatering acidity, with a savoury, mineral texture to add interest. Drink 2020-2022 Alcohol 12% 2 Thymiopoulos, Rosé de Xinomavro, Naoussa, Macedonia 2018 92 £15 Theatre of Wine, Wine & Greene Spends one night on skins before ferment, plus a few months in 500-litre barrels. The effect is texture and complexity, with no overt oak character. A salmon-copper coloured rosé: one of the…

Curtis picks his Cramant top 10 1 Diebolt-Vallois, Fleur de Passion Brut 2010 96 £75 (ib)-£93.43 Cru World Wine, Crump Richmond Shaw, Fine & Rare, Seckford Wines Lemon peel and wet chalk notes grow to include ripe apricot, flowers, marzipan and spice. Although the wine never loses its elegance, it shows impressive intensity and concentration and has the substance to linger almost indefinitely. It is from the oldest vines of the domaine, particularly the lieu-dit Les Buzons, fermented in cask without malolactic fermentation, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. One of the greats, this will age for decades to come. Drink 2020-2050 Alcohol 12.5% 2 Larmandier-Bernier, Vielle Vigne du Levant Grand Cru Extra Brut 2011 95 £78 AdVINture, Millésima This masterful Champagne comes from the superb Bourron du Levant vineyard, whose…

Kamen: a life in film Robert Mark Kamen’s screenwriting career spans some 40 years. He was highly successful from the outset, with most of his scripts, unusually, actually becoming films. Talking about the first phase of his career, the early 1980s, he says: ‘I wrote small, meaningful dramas.’ Taps (1981) was followed by Split Image (1982) and then The Karate Kid (1984), which quickly attained pop culture immortality. Two sequels then followed in 1986 and 1989. The second phase was the late 1980s and early 1990s, when Kamen moved into big action films, jokingly describing himself as ‘a script assassin’ for Warner Bros, hired to fix problematic screenplays. They include Under Siege (1992), The Fugitive (1993), The Devil’s Own and The Devil’s Advocate (both 1997). During the same timeframe, he…

Panel tasting TOP-TIER ITALIAN SPARKLING WINES There is a lot of fizzy wine made and drunk in Italy, but for the best quality, bottle-fermented styles, four regions across the north dominate. Michael Garner outlines the history and the key factors Bubbles – bollicine! Italians can’t get enough of them: any excuse will do to open a bottle of fizz. Despite a long-standing tradition of producing sparkling wine in Italy, until relatively recently consumers were probably more familiar with the frizzante (lightly sparkling) styles represented by Lambrusco and Prosecco. Nowadays, more and more spumante (fully sparkling) wine is made by the ‘metodo classico’ (traditional method, refermented in the bottle), even though, rather ironically, the Charmat or tank method used by many frizzante producers was pioneered by an Italian, Federico Martinotti, at…

Readers’ queries Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge Drinkable wine finds? Could you offer some advice about a case of wine I was given maybe 10 years ago? The box says Baron de Ley, and there are two reds: Club Privado, Rioja 2006 and Museum Real Reserva 2003. The white is Cosecha Blanco, Rioja 2008. Are they are still drinkable? Isabel Crilley, by email Sarah Jane Evans MW replies: What a pleasant surprise to find a box like this! I spoke to the UK agents for Baron de Ley, Kingsland Drinks. They said: ‘Both of the reds should be pretty good if the corks are still intact. The Club Privado Rioja will likely be showing more wood…

Market watch All the important fine wine investment news, compiled by Chris Mercer Online auctions take centre stage Online auctions have become a central theme of the fine wine market in recent months, and major auction houses have reported strong interest from buyers. A Zachys auction of New York restaurant wines, in aid of hospitality workers, was 100% sold in early May. ‘People are home shopping,’ said Charles Antin, Zachys’ creative director. Online specialist iDealwine runs four auctions per month and reported higher selling prices throughout April. ‘Even Bordeaux prices increased, whereas prices were stagnating for a couple of months [before that],’ said Alix Rodarie, its international development director. Sotheby’s said its Vine to Online auction between 13 and 26 April fetched nearly US$822,000 (£668,000), exceeding its…

CHATEAU FIGEAC 1949 St-Emilion 1GCC, Bordeaux, France A legend because… Long regarded as an archetypal Bordeaux, with a beguiling bouquet that has evolved over decades, plus remarkable distinction and length. 1945, 1947 and 1949 were all great vintages in Bordeaux – and in retrospect were great bargains at the time. It seems appropriate to focus on 1949, as this was the favourite wine of the late owner Thierry Manoncourt, and the first vintage under his sole control. He relished the wine’s freshness and perfectly ripe Cabernet Sauvignon fruit. Looking back After time in a prisoner of war camp followed by studies in agronomy, Manoncourt returned to the family property in 1947. His studies gave him a level of technical expertise that was relatively uncommon in St-Emilion after the difficult war…

LATOUR Planted area 92ha, red wine only Planted to 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 2% split between Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc Second wine Les Forts de Latour; third wine Pauillac de Latour Established 14th century Owner Artémis Domaines, owned by François Pinault and his son François-Henri Pinault. CEO & president, Frédéric Engerer; technical director, Hélène Génin; consultants, Vincent Masson for biodynamics, Eric Boissenot for winemaking Commercial strategy No en primeur after the 2011 vintage, but sells mature wine through the Place de Bordeaux…

St-Julien: the classed growths SECOND GROWTHS Ducru-Beaucaillou Owned since 1941 by the Borie family, who are Bordeaux merchants, Ducru has been making delectable wines for many years, blending opulence and vibrancy. Gruaud-Larose Most of the 82ha vineyard surrounds the château on a well-drained gravel plateau. Some clay in the soil probably explains the wine’s richness and generosity. Léoville Barton Still inhabited by the Barton family, who bought it in 1826. A benchmark for classic St-Julien, with no excesses but impeccable balance, as well as weight. Léoville Las Cases The Delons have long believed this wine is of first-growth quality, and in some vintages it’s hard to disagree. Weighty, voluptuous and very long-lived. Léoville Poyferré Late harvesting and ample new oak result in a sumptuous and seductive style. Moulin Riche comes…

Bordeaux under £20 MY TOP 20: BORDEAUX REDS UNDER £20 Château-bottled, own-label, second wines, brands... It’s great to have the choice, but the options can be confusing when it comes to lower-priced claret. We asked Andy Howard MW to survey the market and select his top 20 reds at this price level for quality and value Bordeaux continues to be the most influential wine-producing area in the world. The region remains the driving force behind the world’s fine wine market – its significance shown by the fact that 50% of the Liv-Ex Fine Wine 1,000 come from Bordeaux. Although famous for its classed growth châteaux, Bordeaux is a great source of classically styled red wines. A strong run of good vintages, increased investment in vineyards plus improved winemaking techniques have…

Lawther’s pick: Bordeaux with a different accent 1 Château Tire Pé, Les Malbecs, Bordeaux 2016 91 £25 Ancestrel Wines There’s a lovely floral freshness and verticality about this wine. It has a deep colour and aromatic spectrum that includes chalky, menthol, liquorice and floral notes. There’s a touch of violet on the palate, which is long, linear and fresh thanks to the vibrant acidity. The tannins are firm but fine and it gains in volume with aeration, finishing again on a chalky note. Aged in 600-litre demi-muids and amphorae. Organic. Drink 2020-2026 Alcohol 13.5% 2 Château de Pressac, St-Emilion GCC 2016 90 £20.83 (ib) Crump Richmond Shaw This is a heavily Merlot-Cabernet blend, but it also contains 2% each of Carmenère and Malbec. An interesting, lifted nose with raisined fruit,…

ST-EMILION & POMEROL: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES 2019 Heatwaves in June and July saw some blockages, with a cooler August and a mainly dry September, though rain came at the end of the month. A good year with some exceptional wines. 2018 As with 2016, rain marked the early part of the year, followed by a long, hot summer that saw many brilliant wines, but alcohol levels climbing high. 2017 The big story of 2017 was the frost at the end of April that reduced the crop, particularly on the Right Bank, but it was not the easiest vintage anyway because of rain in early September. There were some great wines made, but lighter-framed than usual. 2016 Heavy rains in the first part of the year, followed by a beautifully warm,…

Travel NEW YORK FOR BORDEAUX LOVERS Whether you prefer an inexpensive claret by the glass or a mature bottle of the region's finest, you won’t be disappointed with NYC's Bordeaux offering. City resident Vicki Denig highlights 10 destinations, from long-standing institutions to hip new wine bars, that every visitor should know about New York City is home to one of the greatest wine scenes in the world. No matter where you are in the Big Apple, an extensive and globally curated wine list is never more than a few steps away. New York dwellers and short-term visitors alike love to drink wine, and from swanky rooftop bars to classic New York steakhouses to quaint backyard garden bars in Brooklyn, finding a venue that matches your mood is not a difficult…

Letter of the month A winemaker’s lot Your May 2020 issue covered trade fears around Brexit, the undoubted impact of Covid-19, the inexorability of climate change (no German eiswein this year), cancelled wine shows and restrictive practices such as those which have sought to exclude Chablis domaines from the Burgundy appellation. Yet despite all this, the vignerons toil on in the fields, bearing all weathers, the vagaries of the market and everything that nature or man’s caprices throw at them. As we grapple with the uncertainty of the post-pandemic era, let us, as we pull that cork, spare an extra thought for the winemaker, for whom living with such uncertainty is just another to add to those many other uncertainties which are already a daily part…

Elin McCoy ‘Even when we can’t cross borders or continents, wine lets us travel’ Photograph: Monty Waldin This spring, as the coronavirus pandemic swamped the world, sales of wine in America skyrocketed. In April, San Francisco-based online retailer Wine.com was shipping 50,000 bottles a day. One theory had it that people were buying to make sure they had enough wine on hand if things got even worse. As we all sheltered in place, friends far and near set up online ‘happy hours’, where we were able to sip our favourite wines together and philosophise via Zoom or FaceTime or Skype. Every night, my husband and I gravitated towards comforting bottles that reminded us of life before lockdown – a sojourn in St-Emilion, dinner in a ristorante in Piedmont, our first…

Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? The Decanter team has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK priced at £25 or less Recommended by: James Button, Tina Gellie, Georgie Hindle, Julie Sheppard, Amy Wislocki and Sylvia Wu Giusti, Asolo Prosecco Superiore Brut, Veneto, Italy NV 89 £16.30 London Wine Deliveries From the slopes of Montello on red-clay soils, this Prosecco Asolo Superiore offers crisp pear and apple flavours with a touch of wild tarragon. Its 7g/L of residual sugar is barely noticeable, but helps to round off the corners and makes this a lovely aperitif pick. JB Alcohol 11.5% Isaac Cantalapiedra, Lirondo, Castilla y León, Spain 2018 91 O…

Apstein’s take: the alternative Burgundies ST-BRIS Profile Fruity and minerally; great value; weekday wine More interesting than Varietal Sauvignon Blanc Food pairing Seafood, though its mineral-infused edginess also allows it to balance more substantial fare, such as roast pork or Asian-spiced dishes COTEAUX BOURGUIGNON BLANC Profile Fruity and zesty; great value; weekday wine More interesting than Comparably priced New World Chardonnay Food pairing Seafood, chicken in a cream sauce COTEAUX BOURGUIGNON ROUGE & PASSE-TOUT-GRAINS Profile Fruity and savoury; great value; weekday wine More interesting than Comparably priced New World Pinot Noir Food pairing Quintessential roast chicken wine…

50 of the top new Piedmont reds Stephen Brook tasted the great majority of these wines blind in January 2020 at the Nebbiolo Prima event in Alba, while others were tasted (non-blind) at the Grandi Langhe event that followed immediately after, also in Alba. Others were tasted later in London at importers’ tastings. Unfortunately, at least one major tasting this year had to be cancelled because of Covid-19, so it was not possible to assess some wines from top producers. And, as always, many estates choose not to pour their wines at tasting events. Wines are listed within their DOCG and age categories, then by score, then alphabetically by producer. The final alcohols on some wines were not yet determined at time of tasting, and many UK allocations have still…

Producer profile THYMIOPOULOS Committed to organic and biodynamic farming, and working with indigenous grapes, Apostolos Thymiopoulous is one of the winemakers steering Greek wines towards an innovative future and global recognition. Sarah Jane Evans MW meets the charismatic master of Xinomavro at his home in northern Greece The car screeches to a halt by an isolated, dusty roundabout to pick us up and we race off to the vineyards. But what vineyards! A hillside in the shadow of snowcapped Mount Olympus, in full sun, with a fresh breeze and a breathtaking view of the Aegean sea sparkling in the distance. There’s a glorious sensation of good health, appropriate for a producer who follows organic and biodynamic practices, and whose main problems in the vineyard are wild boars, greedy birds and,…

The Decanter interview ROBERT MARK KAMEN His early move into Hollywood screenwriting seemed almost effortless, and it enabled him to buy his eponymous Sonoma estate on impulse in the 1980s. Elin McCoy meets the man behind The Karate Kid and Taken, to reveal why he believes making wine is his real destiny At Kamen Estate’s tasting room in downtown Sonoma, Hollywood screenwriter and vintner Robert Mark Kamen, 72, is padding around in flip flops, cargo shorts and a bright blue T-shirt emblazoned with the greeting ‘Hola!’ In his left ear is an earring, at his right is a mobile phone. He’s short and slight; his uncombed hair is now grey. Quotes from his famous screenplays – ‘Never open the package’ (The Transporter) and ‘I will find…

McCoy rates Kamen’s latest releases 1 Kamen Estate, Viognier, Moon Mountain District, Sonoma County 2018 92 N/A UK www.kamenwines.com A lot of California Viogniers lack acidity. Not this one. It’s fragrant and zingy, with gorgeous aromas of mint and apricot, and an elegance that reminds me of a Condrieu, plus it’s less unctuous than previous vintages I’ve tasted. There’s not much of it, because Kamen grows the grapes so he can ferment the skins with his Syrah, and there’s none from 2017 because of the fires. Drink 2020-2025 Alcohol 15.1% Kamen Estate, Sauvignon Blanc, Moon Mountain District, Sonoma County 2017 91 N/A UK www.kamenwines.com The very warm growing season in 2017 served up a round, lush, fleshy style of Sauvignon Blanc, but this very pale-coloured wine still has freshness and…

THE VERDICT Our judges enjoyed the quality and consistency of these excellent sparkling wines from around Italy, though there was a measure of frustration at a lack of availability, as James Button explains The wines tasted were sent in from as far north as Trentino-Alto Adige, and as far south as Sicily. Despite the words ‘metodo classico’ evoking images of the classic Champagne varieties, just under one third of the wines were made using indigenous grapes, such as Aglianico, Bombino Bianco, Glera, Susumaniello and Turbiana. The fact that nearly half of the wines achieved scores of 90 points and above was a fantastic result for such a varied collection. ‘I was very pleasantly surprised by the diversity of style and quality across a number of regions,’ Anthony Rose bagan. ‘Mostly,…

TASTING NOTES DECODED Written by Laura Seal Apricot Apricot is in the same spectrum as other stone fruits, such as peach, indicating a certain ripeness in the grapes. It relates to white wines – although not when they’re as ripe as in hot-climate wines, where the fruit descriptors become tropical, like mango. Apricot is often linked with the grape Viognier, found in both the Rhône and the New World. Richer styles of Albariño, from Spain, can also display an apricot nose. Apricot aromas – in either fresh or dried forms, the latter being sweeter and more intense – are also found in sweet wines like Sauternes, and fortifieds, as in tawny Port. Dried apricot is not just restricted to sweet wines though, and is found in dry whites or orange…

Decanter fine wine price watch Below are the most recent merchant case prices (equivalent 12 x 750ml bottles) for wines that are actively traded among a global network of merchants on Liv-ex, the fine wine market. Liv-ex records transactions between its merchant members in the UK, US, Asia and Europe. All prices are in GBP and exclude sales tax. The numbers in green indicate those prices which have increased since last month, whilst the numbers in red have decreased. THE LIV-EX 100 INDEX Index level at end of April 2020 298.46|-0.3% The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The majority of the index consists of Bordeaux wines…

How they fared: Bordeaux’s top Left Bank communes in 2017 St-Estèphe Some of my most consistent re-scores were here – bearing in mind I was re-tasting the classified wines – and it’s definitely an area I would recommend looking at in the 2017 vintage. There is still austerity and a cool character in the fruit, and the alcohols are in general far lower than you will find in the St-Estèphe 2018 wines, but these are well-built, carefully constructed wines with lots to enjoy. Pauillac There are many excellent successes in this appellation, and it is almost certainly where I would suggest you look if intending to buy ‘blind’. Don’t expect blockbusters though – you will find dark autumnal fruits and firm tannins, but acidities can be higher, which can emphasise…

Château Lafleur: a timeline 15th century First records of a Lafleur plot within Domaine de Gay Mid-19th century Village of La Fleur recorded, with a farmhouse that grew vines Photographs: Alexandra Lebon 1872 Henri Greloud (the owner of nearby Château Le Gay and great-great-grandfather of Jacques Guinaudeau) purchased a small plot of vines from a Monsieur Bernier 1915 André Robin, nephew of Greloud, becomes owner 1946 Marie and Thérèse Robin inherit the estate from their father André 1982 Moueix family begins looking after the property 1985 Jacques Guinaudeau begins renting the vines after the death of his great-aunt Thérèse Robin, taking over from the Moueix family 1987 First vintage Les Pensées de Lafleur (no Lafleur made) 1999 Soil study shows 13 different soil types on the Château Lafleur estate 2001…

Secondary grapes THE ‘SALT AND PEPPER’ GRAPES While Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot will rule Bordeaux for the foreseeable, producers are rediscovering the value of the traditional secondary varieties, used as seasoning to add complexity and to adapt in an age of global warming. James Lawther MW reports Photograph: Andia/Alamy Stock Photo Bordeaux may be a Merlot-Cabernet-centric region, but a smattering of other red varieties subsist alongside. Look at the figures: Merlot accounts for 66% of the region’s red plantings, Cabernet Sauvignon 22% and Cabernet Franc 9%, leaving a meagre 3% of ‘other red varieties’. For these read: Carmenère, Malbec and Petit Verdot. While not exactly household names – though still officially authorised and very much part of the region’s DNA – these three secondary varieties are belatedly stirring…

Panel tasting THE VERDICT This was an impressive and rarely seen tasting line-up that showcased the balance, restraint and drinkability of many of the best wines from the Right Bank 2015 vintage, as Georgie Hindle reports This was a great tasting,’ opened Jane Anson. ‘I was really impressed with the level. I was expecting it to be good, but I’m happy we weren’t disappointed.’ Despite not having such high hopes initially – thinking the 2015s would be ‘out of balance’ or ‘excessive and overly alcoholic’ – fellow judges Tim Triptree MW and Andy Howard MW agreed. ‘The quality of the 2015s really surprised me. With some exceptions, they are well balanced, with ripe fruit and very easy to drink,’ said Triptree. Howard also found them ‘balanced with restraint’. He addded:…

In brief Stay up to date with the latest wine news on Decanter.com, or follow us on Facebook or Twitter @Decanter ■ All revenue from the Decanter Retailer Awards 2020 will go to The Drinks Trust in support of the UK drinks industry. Formerly The Benevolent, The Drinks Trust has organised a Covid-19 emergency fund and wellness initiative to aid individuals from on-trade, off-trade and distribution companies who lost their income and employment as a result of the Covid-19 crisis. ■ China’s ambassador to Australia has hinted at a possible boycott of Australian goods in retaliation to calls for a review into the origins of Covid-19. Cheng Jingye told the Australian Financial Review that Chinese consumers may question ‘Why should we drink Australian wine? Eat Australian beef?’ Australia’s foreign minister…

Andrew Jefford ‘Wine helps places celebrate themselves and sing out their uniqueness’ Handsome city, Vancouver. The rivers, bays and creeks massage blue fingers into the urban fabric. Cars bead the bridges, sea-planes skim the bays and container ships slide off into the Pacific beneath a gallery of snow-dusted mountains. I made the city’s acquaintance earlier this year, in the drenching late-winter rainy season. We didn’t mind the weather: it was Wine Festival time. France was this year’s toast, and my duties included two speeches and two tasting seminars, the second of which was a ‘terroir tour’ of France. It occurred to me, as I was preparing for the Festival, that what we call terroir is the result of a long wine-creating conversation between human beings and the place in which…

Letter from a sommelier Matthew Luczy ‘The Covid-19 pandemic is altering the very framework of the hospitality industry’ I am a sommelier based in Los Angeles, California. Of the core group of people I interact with on a daily basis, and whom I consider my closest friends, 90% have filed for unemployment. I know this is the same for sommeliers in most other cities in the US, UK and across the world. As anyone who has worked in the restaurant industry can attest, our social and work lives are inextricably linked. Service, connection and giving to others propel us through life and feed our mental wellbeing. An entire industry based on these values now finds itself completely shut down. While this near-complete severing of social interactions is something far from…

Orange wines AMBER CHAMPIONS: TOP 30 ORANGE WINES Though divisive, orange wine is a style that’s finally gaining real popularity among winemakers and drinkers alike. Simon J Woolf endeavours to put any remaining scepticism to rest, explaining the traditions behind the technique and recommending 30 of his favourite skin-contact discoveries Five years is a long time in wine. When I first wrote at length about orange wines in Decanter, in 2015, many wine pundits still viewed the style with suspicion – if not downright derision. It felt slightly bleeding edge, even if these wines had been appearing on our shelves for more than a decade. Now, in 2020, the fourth wine colour has elbowed its way into the hearts and minds of exponentially more adventurous drinkers around the globe, with…

Spanish whites for cellaring TOP 10 SPANISH WHITES FOR YOUR CELLAR Best known for its fresh young whites, Spain also produces more serious styles that need time in bottle to reveal their full potential. Sarah Jane Evans MW picks her top 10 styles from across the country that deserve a place in your cellar and will reward ageing Summertime – and that means white wine. It’s something that Spain does so well. Crisp, chilly Verdejos and Albariños, salty manzanilla Sherries, these are the mainstay of a summer lunch. Yet when the sun shines we should remember that along with these vibrant young whites, Spain makes wines worth cellaring and rediscovering after several years or more in the shade. There’s a view that Spain has two great cellar-worthy white wines: Castillo…

Thymiopoulos: go-to grapes XINOMAVRO Photograph: Aris Deliopoulos/Thymiopoulos Vineyards The name Xinomavro means ‘sour/acid black’. It’s a late-ripening variety, widely planted across northern Greece, and centred especially on Naoussa, where it is the only permitted grape variety, as it is in Amynteo. In Rapsani, it is combined equally with a blend of Stavroto and Krassato. Xinomavro needs careful management. Thymiopoulous says: ‘It’s a very productive variety, so we have to control the yields. Organic viticulture is a good answer, so lower yield means better ripeness.’ The wines are typically pale in colour with marked tannins, which can be exaggerated if there is heavy oak handling. The acidity gives the wines good cellaring potential. Xinomavro can also make good rosés. Theatre of Wine’s Daniel Illsley says: ‘The Thymiopoulous Rosé has been a…

ROBERT MARK KAMEN AT A GLANCE Born 9 October 1947 Grew up The Bronx, New York City Education BA New York University; PhD University of Pennsylvania (American Studies) Career Screenwriter and vintner First vintage of Kamen Wines 1999 Area under vine 20ha (main vineyard 14.5ha) Annual production 3,000 cases: 2,500 red, 500 white Grapes grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc Lives Moon Mountain AVA, Sonoma, California Family Daughters Ali, Jessica and Tory; life partner Evonne Sproat Hobbies Tai chi, martial arts, cycling…

Expert’s choice BEYOND ASSYRTIKO Though Assyrtiko may be Greece’s best-known grape, the country is a treasure trove of white varieties, in diverse styles. Yiannis Karakasis MW shares his pick of ‘other’ Greek dry whites From hazy tourist memories of bad retsina served in terrible glasses in tavernas, to the sensational modern-day Assyrtikos of Santorini island, Greek wine has come a long way. This is particularly felt in the country’s whites, which highlight freshness and structure, with moderate alcohol levels that rarely exceed 13.5%. There’s also an unexpected common thread – a saline aftertaste. Assyrtiko doesn’t have a monopoly on this, as a handful of other exciting white varieties have come to the fore. Savatiano and pink-skinned Roditis account for one third of the 65,000ha total Greek vineyard. These varieties, traditionally…

THE JUDGES Andrea Briccarello Briccarello is business development manager at specialist on-trade wine merchant Jascots. Formerly head sommelier and wine buyer for the Galvin restaurant group, he also worked previously as a brand manager for Bisol Prosecco, and has been a regular DWWA judge since 2010. Michael Garner Garner has worked in the wine business for 40 years, mostly specialising in the wines of Italy. He is co-owner of Italian wine specialist Tria Wines, and is a DWWA Regional Chair for northern Italy. Garner is author of Amarone and the Fine Wines of Verona, and co-author of Barolo: Tar and Roses. Anthony Rose Rose is a widely published journalist and author, a founder member of The Wine Gang, and the DWWA Regional Chair for southern Italy. He is currently working…

Your Luberon & Ventoux address book ACCOMMODATION Château de Montcaud, Sabran A short hop over the Rhône river, this new four-star hotel run by friendly Swiss couple Rolf and Andrea Bertschi has a superb restaurant and a very knowledgeable sommelier. Makes a good base if you’re including Châteauneuf-du-Pape in your trip. www.chateaudemontcaud.com Crillon le Brave This ‘scattered hotel’, which occupies historic buildings in the village of the same name, enjoys a breathtaking view of Mont Ventoux. Its refurbished rooms were designed by top French architect Charles Zana. www.crillonlebrave.com La Coquillade, Gargas An eco-friendly and luxurious resort looking out over the surrounding vineyards belonging to its own winery Aureto. Explore the area on high-quality bicycles from the on-site cycling centre. www.coquillade.fr RESTAURANTS La Figuière, Fontaine de Vaucluse Tucked away in a…

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