Indholdsfortegnelse for October 2020 i Decanter

Letters Your letters Enraged or inspired by what you’ve read? Email editor@decanter.com, or write to: The Editor, Decanter, 1st Floor, 161 Marsh Wall, London E14 9AP, UK Corkage, another view I write in response to the recent letters on the subject of BYO and restaurant wine prices. No one seems to be putting the restaurateur’s viewpoint. I have worked in the trade all my working life, and have bought, sold and audited for all types of restaurant business. I now sell wine into the trade, and advise customers on their selling prices and therefore mark-up. The ‘outrageous’ mark-up mentioned last month by Mr G Sharp is very easily explained. Running a restaurant is a very costly business, taking into account mortgage or rent, insurance, staffing costs, the cost of goods…

WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTH Scents of crushed limes… but I forgot to look for fruits on the palate, so overwhelming was the oily, stony texture, the salty tang, the width and breadth in the mouth, the overall poise and panache. This was Riesling – secondarily. First and foremost it was a Schlossberg, the 2015, from the Blanck cousins. Certainly the best bottle drunk in our house over the last month, and (as so often) an Alsace wine whose grandeur makes you wonder why folk fuss so over Burgundy at twice the price.…

DECANTER WORLD WINE AWARDS CHILE & ARGENTINA: THE RISE OF PINOT NOIR DWWA 2020 Regional Chairs Peter Richards MW and Paz Levinson look to Chile and Argentina for ever-improving quality and a continuous exploration of terroir. Where red varieties such as Malbec, Carmenère and Cabernet Sauvignon thrive, there is still room for discovery, and Pinot Noir is just coming into its own. As results for the 2020 Decanter World Wine Awards near – due on 22 September on Decanter.com and in the January 2021 issue – a look back at the 2019 results highlights Pinot Noir’s improving quality and continued potential PETER RICHARDS MW REGIONAL CHAIR FOR CHILE ‘Chile is undoubtedly one of the most dynamic and exciting wine scenes on the planet right now. It’s almost impossible to keep pace…

The interview SUSANA BALBO The pioneering winemaker has forged an outstanding career in Argentina, helping to put its wines onto an international stage and even extending her influence into politics and female empowerment. Sorrel Moseley-Williams meets the Queen of Torrontés When she graduated as Argentina’s first female oenologist, Susana Balbo set the tone for the trailblazing career that followed. The last four decades have witnessed her propel the industry forward as a three-times president of Wines of Argentina, consult for the biggest names in the business, and build her own eponymous bodega. One of the country’s most respected winemakers, she says: ‘I’m the architect of my own life.’ Winemaking hasn’t been her only focus. In 2015, Balbo neatly sidestepped into politics, tackling territory far removed from barrel tasting at her…

12 to try: South America’s top whites 1 Errazuriz, Las Pizarras Chardonnay, Aconcagua Costa, Chile 2018 97 £55-£63.99 Berry Bros & Rudd, Cru, Exel, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, IG Wines, Lay & Wheeler, Richard Dawes, Stannary Wine, Vagabond World-class Chardonnay made not far from the Pacific coast using fruit sourced from small plots grown on slate (‘las pizarras’ in Spanish). The wine combines exuberance of fruit including white peaches and star fruit, with hazelnuts, praline, dried fruits, toast and sweet spices. Beautifully balanced palate with a sophisticated, creamy texture and underlying tension. Persistent finish of well-judged oak and wonderful savoury complexity. Drink 2020-2030 Alcohol 13% Catena, Adrianna Vineyard White Stones Chardonnay, Gualtallary, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2018 96 £66.80-£80 (2017) Albany Vintners, BI Wine & Spirits, Cru, Exel, Harrods,…

Ahmed’s 10 of the best from McLaren Vale 1 Zerella, La Gita Fiano 2018 91 £12.50-£16.90 (2017) Jaded Palates, Tilley’s Hand-harvested from Peters Creek Vineyard in Kangarilla, at 330m, a portion of grapes for this fresh, unoaked Fiano was whole-bunch pressed. A lively, citrussy example of this Campanian variety. White pepper, fennel, celery salt and orange zest on a grapefruity, mouthwatering palate. Nice intensity, with a saline edge to the finish. Drink 2020-2022 Alcohol 13.5% Bekkers, Syrah 2017 96 £56.67 (ib) Atlas Fine Wine A complex, balanced blend using about 20% whole bunches from Beautiful View vineyard (69%) on shallow, grey-brown sandy loam over calcrete at about 105m and Clarendon vineyard on red clay loam over siltstone, clay and gravel at about 125m. Svelte, spicy blackberry and raspberry, hints of…

New releases & older gems: Luczy’s verdict 1 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Aveta Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley 2018 91 £24.80-£29.50 (2017) Exel, Great Wines Direct, My Somm, The Great Wine Co, Vinvm Sourced from sites in Oak Knoll, Calistoga and an area northeast of Napa itself called Wooden Valley. It’s a quintessential Napa Sauvignon Blanc, with grapefruit pith, mango and papaya aromas and an oily, supple palate with a fresh, grassy and tropical finish. It was fermented and aged for six months in 70% French oak, some acacia barrels and the balance in stainless steel. Drink 2020-2028 Alcohol 14% Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Karia Chardonnay, Napa Valley 2018 90 £32.50-£40.50 AG Wines, Exel, Great Wines Direct, The Fine Wine Co, Vinvm Ripe yellow fruits and toasty, nutty, oak-driven aromas from…

Lambert’s pick: top South African Semillon Gris 1 Alheit Vineyards, La Colline Semillon, Franschhoek 2018 96 £55-£68.68 Handford, Lay & Wheeler, Noble Grape, The Good Wine Shop, The Solent Cellar, Vin Cognito In the interplanted La Colline vineyard, planted in 1936, the majority of Semillon grapes are the classic gold-skinned, but there are also green, pink and gris varieties too, harvested together before whole-bunch pressing. The 2018 (with 12% Semillon Gris) has a bit more power than its predecessors; Chris Alheit says this is because 20% of the crop comes from the shallow soils at the vineyard’s highest point. Aromas of white citrus, hay and ginger blossom, a more savoury bay leaf edge and orange-peel sweetness. Deeply concentrated palate, generous mouthfeel displaying orange, white peach and apple. The power is…

Rum RUM COCKTAILS TO MAKE AT HOME Keen to make your own Mojitos, Daiquiris and more besides? Laura Foster shows you how to use this complex and versatile spirit in an array of delicious mixed drinks When it comes to spirits trends, rum’s star is on the rise. Consumer knowledge and appreciation of this hugely complex spirit has grown, and so too has the number of quality expressions and brands that are now available to buy. One thing that has stood in rum’s way previously is its diversity. It is perhaps the most complicated of all spirits categories, thanks to its myriad flavours, styles and producing countries, each with their own rules and regulations; not to mention the fact that it can be made from molasses or sugarcane juice, and…

SOUTH AMERICAN SYRAH: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES (based on Chile as the main region) 2019 Heatwaves and water shortages meant lower yields and an earlier harvest than in 2018. Powerful and concentrated wines. Coastal areas seem to have fared best. (Argentina’s third good, warm vintage in a row.) 2018 A potentially outstanding vintage and a welcome boost after two difficult years. A cooler, later year after 2017 with a generous yield and excellent potential for elegant, expressive wines. (Argentina: warm days and cool nights gave bright, exuberant wines.) 2017 Torrid heat and forest fires beset one of the earliest, lowest-yielding vintages of modern times. Beware smoke taint. (Argentina: warm year, expressive styles.) 2016 Torrential autumn rain hit a slow-maturing vintage, yet those few who harvested early and focused on elegance escaped…

Expert’s choice SOUTH AMERICAN CABERNET FRANC Planted across Argentina, Chile and Uruguay, Cabernet Franc is revealing a distinctive New World identity – particularly when planted at altitude. Alejandro Iglesias recommends top bottles to try An essential ingredient in many great wines, Cabernet Franc never quite seems to have received its due in the Loire Valley, Bordeaux or Tuscany – an injustice that winemakers in Argentina, Chile and Uruguay are looking to put right. Even though just 3,000ha are under vine, South America has been doing a lot more to improve its reputation than many Old World producers. In the warm, dry conditions found in South American vineyards, Cabernet Franc ripens better, with fewer pyrazines (which give a leafy, green pepper character) and gentler tannins. In Argentina, there is already talk…

TASTING NOTES DECODED Photographs: Dmitriy Sechin/Alamy Stock Photo; Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Written by Laura Seal Hay Hay can be found as a dried herbaceous or vegetative aroma in wine, in the same range as notes of straw, tobacco or tea. It’s usually expressed in less fruit-forward white wines, and possibly alongside herbs and sweet floral aromas of honey or blossom. Hay can be a secondary aroma associated with yeast influences from wines rested on the lees, or those that have undergone bâtonnage (lees-stirring). This is commonly associated with some Champagnes. As an indication of development in the bottle, hay can also appear as a tertiary aroma, typically in mature white Burgundies, along with other aromas such as lanolin, oatmeal or mushroom. The smell of mouldy hay can…

On the radar: September releases All figures based on Liv-ex data up to 31 July 2020 unless otherwise stated. September has become a key month for fine wine releases via the Place de Bordeaux, and the 2017 vintages of SuperTuscan Masseto and California’s Opus One were among the offers being prepared by merchants at the time of writing. Opus One has released new vintages via the Place to non-US customers since 2004. Argentina’s Catena Zapata also planned to launch the 2017 vintages of Nicolás Catena Zapata, its flagship Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec blend, along with its Adrianna Vineyard, Mundus Bacillus Terrae Malbec. Within Bordeaux, Châteaux Latour and Palmer planned to offer more of their 2009 and 2010 vintages respectively.…

Letter of the month Cru bourgeois brain ache I’m a self-confessed Bordeaux lover, so eagerly tucked into the cru bourgeois article in your September issue. To me, the category has always been a signpost towards a good claret that mostly doesn’t enter the price bracket of the cru classé brigade. A good buy. Previous classifications left me – and I imagine most of us – ignoring the suffixes that follow the cru bourgeois status and just enjoying the wine. Thank goodness things have been cleared up with the 2020 classification! So... just to clarify: cru bourgeois can be exceptionnel, supérieur or just straightforward cru bourgeois. But won’t include the top cru bourgeois wines (Potensac, for instance) that most of us might recognise – always wise to…

Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? The Decanter team has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK priced at £20 or less Recommended by: James Button, Tina Gellie, Georgie Hindle, Julie Sheppard, Amy Wislocki and Sylvia Wu Mirabeau, La Folie, Vin de France, Southeast France 91 £14.99 Waitrose A delicate sparkling made by the Charmat method (the same as Prosecco) to retain fresh red fruit flavours alongside zesty citrus. Made from Cinsault, Syrah, Grenache and Colombard grown in Provence and the Luberon, it has crisp acidity and a satisfyingly long finish. A great aperitif. GH Alcohol 11.5% Yangarra, Estate Roussanne, McLaren Vale, South Australia 2018 91…

McLaren Vale: 10 names to know APHELION Since founding Aphelion Wine Co in 2015, Rob Mack and Louise Rhodes have put old-vine McLaren Vale Grenache from Blewitt Springs under the microscope, using different techniques (whole bunch, whole berry, maceration on skins) to thrilling effect. With an uncommon lightness of touch, the range (including a Mataro, Sagrantino, GSM and Chenin) has great precision and flair. BEKKERS Experienced viticulturist Toby Bekkers and his French winemaker wife Emmanuelle established their eponymous boutique label in 2010. Meticulously sourced and sorted grapes give unashamedly high-end and exceptionally accomplished reds (and Emmanuelle’s Chablis). Parcels are skilfully blended with intensity not density in mind, elegantly harnessing the region’s generous fruit. BONDAR André and Selina Bondar established their label in 2012, acquiring the highly regarded Rayner vineyard in…

And three historic wines... 3 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Fay Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District 1990 96 N/A UK www.stagsleapwinecellars.com An all-time classic Napa Valley Cabernet, perfectly encapsulating both the elegance of the Stags Leap District AVA and this era of the Napa Valley, between the postphylloxera replantings of the 1980s and the overripeness that often came with the late ’90s. Good bricking in the glass, with a beaming nose of crushed concrete, fresh rain and oiled leather. Red fruits and dried tobacco infuse the pure, svelte palate. Wonderful now but has another decade or more ahead. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 13.5% Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, SLV Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District 1990 96 N/A UK www.stagsleapwinecellars.com The difference between the Fay and SLV sites only emerges fully with bottle age.…

Spirits Distilled by Decanter A new guide to the latest trends in spirits and cocktails. Edited by Julie Sheppard Fanfare for royal gin release Buckingham Palace has launched its first-ever gin. A London dry style, it’s infused with botanicals from the palace gardens, including lemon verbena, bay leaves, hawthorn berries and mulberry leaves. The planting of mulberry trees became popular in England during the reign of James I and today 40 different species of mulberry can be found in the palace gardens. Profits from sales of the gin go to The Royal Collection Trust, a charity that funds conservation of the Royal Collection of art works, held in trust by the royal family for the nation. Buckingham Palace Gin (42%) has citrus aromas backed by spice and…

Mixing rum cocktails: top tips Ice Often an afterthought for most people, ice is actually a foundation block for drinks that is important to get right. Make sure you properly fill glasses with ice – the idea that this will overly dilute a drink is a fallacy. Also try to keep your ice properly chilled and dry – don’t throw in wet, watery cubes that have been sitting in an ice bucket for hours, for instance. Lime juice There are two golden rules when it comes to lime juice: make sure you only use freshly squeezed juice (my favoured tool for quick squeezing is a Mexican elbow – everyone should have one); and taste it – some will be more sour than others – so you can adjust your recipe…

Panel tasting THE VERDICT With wines from Chile, Argentina and Brazil earning top scores, there is quality and consistency in South American Syrah – though still potential for the category to grow, too, reports Julie Sheppard Chile dominated this South American tasting, accounting for 70% of the wines tasted. While Argentina has the most Syrah vines planted, there were only 18 Argentinian wines submitted. Nonetheless, the results showed the potential of Syrah across the continent, with Outstanding wines from Argentina, Brazil and Chile. Alistair Cooper MW noted: ‘When South American Syrah is good, it’s certainly as good as Australia and New Zealand.’ Dirceu Vianna Junior MW agreed. ‘A few wines right at the top could rival any wine from anywhere. But in the middle there were also a lot which…

Where to stay & eat in Serra da Mantiqueira Pousada da Pedra You can easily day-trip from São Paulo, or stay in one of the many pousadas (small, family-run inns) in the mountains or a comfy, chalet-style B&B in Campos do Jordão. Pousada da Pedra is one of the most luxe options. www. pousadadapedra.com.br Entre Vilas Stay among the vineyards in this charming wine lodge with a popular restaurant. www.entrevilas.com.br Villa Santa Maria Italian-inspired, contemporary winery restaurant that’s worth booking. Many other wineries offer local charcuterie platters or picnics. www.villasantamaria.com.br GETTING THERE It’s a three-hour drive from São Paulo, the nearest major city and home to Guarulhos International Airport.…

In brief Stay up to date with the latest wine news on Decanter.com, or follow us on Facebook or Twitter @Decanter ■ Soon-to-be-revised US dietary guidelines should cut the daily alcohol limit for men from two drinks to one, the same as for women, said the Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee. In current guidance, one drink is five US fluid ounces (150ml) of wine at 12% alcohol. California’s Wine Institute said the Committee didn’t cite enough evidence to ‘reverse decades of guidance’ on drinking in moderation. ■ Never mind oysters and caviar – pairing Champagne with a crunchy raw radish is one of life’s simple pleasures, says Didier Depond, president of the Delamotte and Salon houses, who grows them at home, having got the idea from respected oenologist and chemist, professor…

Andrew Jefford ‘No one ever masters wine – for all our talk of terroir, it remains a mystery’ Language is a problem.’ So said black wine writer Julia Coney during a 54-minute Instagram video post recorded on 3 June, at the height of the Black Lives Matter protests which followed the murder of George Floyd in Minneapolis. She said, of course, much else: her despair at the lack of diversity in the wine world, and her anger at its patronising attitudes to black workers, was palpable. Wine, ethnically speaking, remains exclusive, not inclusive. A quick glance around the room at the average wine tasting, wine education class and wine auction will show that the audience rarely resembles the wider population. If there is such a thing as ‘the wine conscience’,…

Weekend wines Wanting to splash out a little bit more to celebrate your weekend in style? As a companion selection to our 25 wines under £20, the Decanter team has selected seven standout bottles that are sure to impress, all available in the UK and priced between £20 and £50 Recommended by: James Button, Tina Gellie, Georgie Hindle, Julie Sheppard, Amy Wislocki and Sylvia Wu The Wine Society, Jules Camuset Brut, Champagne, France 91 £23.50 The Wine Society This unusual blend of 55% Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay is made for The Wine Society by Boizel. It’s golden in the glass, with a delicate but fruit-forward character: lots of apple and yellow plum. Softly creamy, very approachable and lovely purity of fruit. AW Alc 12%…

Chilean trailblazers: Richards’ dozen 1 Vinos Baettig, Selección de Parcelas Chardonnay, Traiguén, Malleco 2018 95 £51 Fine & Rare Francisco Baettig’s new wines are taking Chilean Chardonnay and Pinot to a new level. Subtle aromatics lead into a sumptuous yet tense, ageworthy palate profile. Utterly cogent and beautifully fluent: grace and class in a flinty, gently nutty style. Very grown-up. If this wine’s too pricey, let yourself be convinced by the excellent-value 2019 Vino de Viñedo Chardonnay or Pinot Noir at about £20. You won’t regret it. Drink 2020-2030 Alcohol 12.5% 2 Garage Wine Co, Isidore Vineyard Lot #F1 Semillon, Maule 2018 91 £28 Bibendum Wine Semillon has been seriously underrated in Chile over the years, but now we’re belatedly seeing a renaissance as producers learn to prize and nurture…

White wines SOUTH AMERICAN WHITES: A NEW ERA Increasing experimentation and the exploration of new terroir means South America is now the source of an exciting and diverse array of white wines, across all price points. Dirceau Vianna Junior MW highlights the regions and producers to watch South American white wines have undergone a more radical transformation this century than in any other period in the continent’s history. Changes have been driven by numerous factors. The search for cooler spots to mitigate the effects of climate change, combined with increasing self-confidence, has led producers to explore progressively more marginal conditions, while the need to offer consumers diversity is encouraging producers to consider alternative varieties. Additionally, there has been a desire to preserve local heritage, prompting producers to explore old vineyards.…

Atkin’s pick: top six to try from Uruguay 1 Cerro del Toro, Albariño Sobre Lías, Piriápolis, Maldonado 2019 95 N/A UK @bodegacerrodeltoro If you want to make great Albarino in Uruguay, it helps if you’ve spent two years working in Galicia, as Martín Viggiano did. This suberb white is one of the best examples of the grape outside Spain, with wonderful focus, salinity and dry extract, plus notes of celery, white pepper and citrus peel. Drink 2020-2025 Alcohol 12% Bouza, Monte Vide Eu, Montevideo/ Canelones 2018 97 £39.88 Jeroboams On current form, this is Uruguay’s best red blend, a world-class cuvée of Tannat with 35% Merlot and 20% Tempranillo. Aged in 90% new oak, it’s effortlessly harmonious: top notes of violet, sweet spices and cut grass, palate of cassis, plum,…

STAG’S LEAP WINE CELLARS: A TIMELINE 1961 Nathan Fay plants the first Cabernet Sauvignon in what would become the Stags Leap District AVA 1969 Warren Winiarski tastes the 1968 vintage of Fay’s Cabernet Sauvignon 1970 Winiarksi purchases land next door to Fay, and founds Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. The SLV vineyard is planted the same year 1973 Winiarski produces a Cabernet Sauvignon from his three-year-old vines 1976 Steven Spurrier organises the Judgement of Paris tasting at which Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon wins the red wine category 1986 Fay retires and sells his pioneering vineyard to Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. Winiarski replants it immediately 1990 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars releases its first bottling from the Fay Vineyard 2007 A partnership between Ste Michelle Wine Estates and Piero Antinori…

THREE OF THE BEST Tequilas for a Margarita (Tasted by Georgie Hindle) Ocho Blanco 2019, La Coruña, Los Altos de Jalisco, Mexico £22.95/50cl www. masterofmalt.com A single-estate tequila, and the first to state both the year it was produced and the precise plot of agave used. Each batch is thus distinctive in character, but with signature clarity, intensity and liveliness. Use in a classic Margarita. Alc 40% Calle 23 Reposado, Los Altos de Jalisco, Mexico £34.13/70cl www. masterofmalt.com Made with premium mature agave and barrel-aged with a unique natural yeast for one of the purest and freshest agave tastes around. Perfect for a Tommy’s Margarita: adds touches of warming caramel and vanilla spice. Alc 40% Tapatio 110 Blanco, Los Altos de Jalisco, Mexico £33.64/50cl www. masterofmalt.com Not for the faint-hearted,…

Panel tasting SOUTH AMERICAN SYRAH Not traditionally the first port of call for this well-loved spicy red grape, but producers across the whole continent are growing in confidence to find their own styles, as Peter Richards MW explains Syrah: the Cinderella of South America? It’s frequently overlooked in favour of more glamorous rivals –Cabernet, Carmenère or Pinot in Chile, Malbec or Cabernet Franc in Argentina, Tannat or Albariño in Uruguay. It certainly makes an appearance at the grand ball of South American wine, even taking an occasional (if brief) starring role. Yet the threat of reversion to the mundane norm as midnight looms seems ever present. It’s a shame, because Syrah has huge potential in South America. It is more forgiving in the vineyard than Pinot, yet capable of similarly…

THE JUDGES Alistair Cooper MW Having lived and worked in Chile and Argentina for various wineries, Cooper has been based in the UK since 2006. He writes for Jancis Robinson and Decanter as well as other publications. Currently president of Chile’s Catad’Or Wine Awards, he judges globally and is the global consultant buyer for United Cellars in Sydney. Dirceu Vianna Junior MW Originally from Brazil, Vianna studied forest engineering and law, before moving to London, where he began to work in the wine trade in 1990. In 2008, he became the first South American male to obtain the title of Master of Wine. He now works as a wine writer, educator, technical consultant and competition judge. Peter Richards MW The Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chair for Chile, Richards is…

Readers’ queries Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge English update With the potential effects of both Brexit and ongoing Covid-19 restrictions, what’s the situation looking like for English vineyards as we approach the 2020 harvest? Fiona Marshall, by email Julia Trustram Eve replies: In these extraordinary and strange times, in the GB wine industry, sales to the hospitality industry in particular and producers with tourism businesses have been hit quite hard. One positive is that sales through retailers and online have risen significantly; there has been great enthusiasm and support for English and Welsh wines from customers. Producers have become more active online and on social media, boosting awareness of our industry, and cellar doors are once…

Decanter WINE LEGENDS SEÑA 1997 Aconcagua, Chile A legend because… Robert Mondavi had a knack for forming distinguished joint ventures far from his native California. During his first trip to Chile in 1991, he met Eduardo Chadwick; the first vintage of their new label, Seña, was in 1995, a year before a comparable joint venture, Almaviva, was created by Concha y Toro and Mouton-Rothschild. However, the first wine from the dedicated Seña vineyard was not produced until 2001. From the beginning the wine showed a more European, indeed French influence and polish than Californian weight and brashness. Because of changes in the Mondavi wineries’ structure and ownership, Chadwick bought its 50% share in 2004. Looking back The first vintage of Errazuriz’s Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve Cabernet, arguably Chile’s first ‘icon’…