Indholdsfortegnelse for July 2022 i Decanter

SUSY ATKINS is a widely published and awarded wine writer and presenter, wine editor of Delicious magazine and weekly drinks columnist for The Telegraph online, as well as author of 11 books on wine and drinks. susyatkins.co.uk JONATHAN CRISTALDI is a California-based writer on wine, spirits and beer. He is editor-atlarge for both The Somm Journal and The Tasting Panel magazine, also contributing to various other titles including Food & Wine ALDO FIORDELLI is a widely published journalist, wine writer and author, and a DWWA judge. He qualified as a sommelier in 2003, and in March 2022 received a special award from Tuscany’s Consorzio Cortona Vini ELIZABETH GABAY MW is a specialist in rosé and the wines of southern France. Author of Rosé, Understanding the Pink Wine Revolution (Infinite Ideas,…

LETTER OF THE MONTH Note perfect Chris Losh’s recent article on crafting the perfect tasting note (June 2022 issue) got me thinking about my first ever lesson in wine, where I was told: ‘Wine is subjective, like music or art. I can’t tell you what you like, you can’t tell me what I like, but a structure can help us to recognise common faults.’ Tasting notes in my opinion have to wear a number of hats, be factual, enthusiastic, inviting, educational and, most importantly for me, not pretentious – especially as we look to invite the next generation of wine drinkers to the party. With that in mind I think there is room for both a structured approach and subjectivity, and they can be great bedfellows in creating the perfect…

The subject of ageing rosé elicits passionate debate. For many, ‘aged rosé’ or rosé de garde, still means rosé with only two to three years of age; but with the increase in quality inherent in wines of this type that have a capacity to age, these rosés are still youthful. The big question is: ‘How do rosés continue to age?’ What are their secondary and tertiary profile evolutions as they shift from fresh fruit to other flavours? ‘Rosé should be drunk young and fresh’ is the prevailing mantra of producers and critics, who cite its simplicity and fun-loving style as one of the many reasons for the rosé boom. Vintage charts and extra wine knowledge are not required. In southern France, rosé regarded as good for the season has meant…

1 1 Arkenstone, Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley 2019 92 £75 (ib) Four Corners Organically farmed, the 94% Sauvignon Blanc and 6% Semillon components were blended after 11 months’ ageing on lees in a combination of concrete eggs and new and used French oak, then aged for an additional 18 months before release. Very aromatic, showing pithy grapefruit, pear and flint along with garrigue-like wild herbal characters. The same flavours are concentrated on the medium-bodied, sinewy palate, framed by good acid grip. Drink 2022-2028 Alcohol 14.8% Arkenstone, NVD Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2018 98 £75 (ib) Four Corners This 100% Cabernet is sourced from vines in Pritchard Hill, Howell Mountain and Calistoga. Aged 22 months in 75% new French oak, it delivers heady aromas of cinnamon-dusted black cherry…

T hemost enduring of classic cocktails, the Martini is simple to make and infinitely customisable. But how do you create the very best one possible? We asked the top mixologists in London’s Martini business – Agostino Perrone and Giorgio Bargiani of The Connaught Bar, Alessandro Palazzi of Dukes Bar and Brian Silva of Rules. Here are their thoughts… THE SPIRIT: VODKA VS GIN None of our bartenders would badmouth the Vodka Martini. And yet, all name gin as their go-to spirit base, because it has so much more flavour. It seems their customers agree: both Palazzi and the Connaught duo say 70% of the Martinis they sell are made with gin. Silva’s numbers are similar, though the Boston native notes an exception: ‘American customers seem to prefer vodka.’ As for…

ACCOMMODATION Hôtel Cour du Corbeau, Strasbourg Very close to the cathedral in a setting that dates back to the 16th century, this fourstar hotel combines Middle Ages charm with modern amenities. Visiting friends give rave reviews. cour-corbeau.com Hôtel Léonor, Strasbourg Opened last year, enjoy casually chic (and comfortable) rooms in what was a central police station in Strasbourg. The elegant façade is a historical monument. Dine at the hotel restaurant, managed by the team from the exceptional two-star Michelin La Fourchette des Ducs (right). leonor-hotel.com Les Haras, Strasbourg Conveniently close to the Petite France quarter, it used to be the 18th-century National Stud Farm and Equestrian Academy, but now impresses with stylish rooms and gorgeous design. Dine at its brasserie, where I often have business lunches for quality and price.…

Made with partially dried grapes (usually Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella) in Veneto, Amarone della Valpolicella is one of Italy’s most famous styles of wine. Appassimento is the method of drying out the grapes, which are then slowly pressed and slowly fermented. The grapes are spread on racks (often wooden) in specially designed lofts or storage rooms, and dried until at least 1 December following the vintage, then fermented to a minimum of 14% alcohol. ‘Amarone spends a minimum of two years in wood, though it can remain there for up to nine or 10 years in rare cases,’ says Michael Garner, Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chair for northern Italy. ‘Barrels vary from French and Slavonian oak through to chestnut, cherry and even acacia,’ he says. Not only does the…

The key thing that makes the regenerative approach different from other forms of sustainable viticulture, such as organics and biodynamics, is its emphasis on not tilling vineyard soil. Tilling is widely practised in organic vineyards, but leaving soil untilled can have numerous advantages, including increased biodiversity (which creates a more stable ecosystem); soil that is less compacted; better water retention; healthier underground networks of mycorrhizal fungi that circulate water and nutrients; and, potentially, more carbon capture in the soil. Mimi Casteel (pictured) founded her Oregon vineyard Hope Well with the conviction that a ‘no-till’ approach to viticulture not only repairs ecosystems by reversing damage to soils and restoring natural cycles, but also avoids releasing organic carbon stored in the soil. ‘Tilling the soil interrupts interactions between microorganisms, which means that…

Sarah Jane Evans MW is an awarded journalist, author and broadcaster, and a DWWA Co-Chair. Author of The Wines of Northern Spain (Infinite Ideas, 2018), she is also chair of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino Christine Parkinson is co-founder of Brimful Drinks, developing products in the no- & low-alcohol sector. She was formerly at Michelin-starred Hakkasan Group for over 18 years as a buyer, latterly as its group head of wine. Numerous career awards include The Caterer’s Wine & Spirits Ambassador Catey in 2018 David Williams is a regular contributor to Decanter on all things Spanish. He is wine correspondent for The Observer, deputy editor of The World of Fine Wine, and a columnist for trade magazine The Wine Merchant…

Alistair Cooper MW is a wine consultant, writer, broadcaster and educator with a particular focus on South America. President of the Cata d’Or wine awards in Chile, he is also consultant wine buyer for United Cellars in Sydney Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is a wine writer, consultant, educator and broadcaster. Moving to the UK in 1989, he spent much of his career as wine director for some of the UK’s most prominent wine distributors, and in 2008 he became the first South American male to obtain the Master of Wine title David Williams is a regular contributor to Decanter on all things Spanish. He is also wine correspondent for The Observer, deputy editor of The World of Fine Wine, and a columnist for trade magazine The Wine Merchant…

How did you get here? I joined Cert Octavian, as it was known then, in 2009 as financial director. This was while the world was coming to terms with the financial crisis of 2008. After turning the business around, I was offered the opportunity to take on Octavian, when the general logistics business of Cert Octavian was sold off to enable us to focus on the fine wine industry. What’s the best thing about your job? I enjoy dealing with an industry that is evolving so quickly, with no set parameters! Over the past 10 years the value of wine, and the potential of wine as an investment, has increased rapidly, with expectations growing in tandem. I also enjoy getting to know so many interesting and informed wine lovers, and…

1 STANDOUT Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol 97 £120-£161 (ib) Christopher Keiller, Crump Richmond Shaw, Grand Vin, Lay & Wheeler, Montrachet A blooming bouquet backed by a splendid core of multi-faceted fruit give this real class, which Left Bank wines often lacked in 2012. The highest proportion of Merlot (87%) since the 1985 vintage, which thirdgeneration owner Alexandre Thienpont described as a ‘glass of perfume’. Still improving. Drink 2025-2035 Alcohol 14% STANDOUT Château Cheval Blanc, St-Emilion 1GCCA 96 £350 (ib)-£645 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Harvey Nichols, Jeroboams, Millésima, Montrachet, Sterling Fine Wines, Wineye A beautifully balanced claret with a fragrant silky texture, fine backbone and length on the palate, promising a long life. Not a ‘big’ wine but a delicious one with class. Made in the spanking new…

The 2017 vintage in Bordeaux was a challenge for winemakers, posing multiple problems throughout the year including frost, drought and untimely rainfall, but it had the added misfortune of falling in the middle of a long run of great vintages. At that time, 2017 was overshadowed by the two preceding years and the three subsequent ones. Almost five years on, all the tasters found much to enjoy from the 2017s of the classified estates of the Left Bank, and were pleasantly surprised at the quality and drinkability on show. ‘Considering how complicated the vintage was, the results are much more positive than expected,’ said Vincenzo Arnese. Andy Howard MW agreed, emphasising the ‘typicity and classicism’ on show. ‘So many couldn’t be anything but Bordeaux wines,’ Howard said. ‘Perhaps one or…

1 Domaine La Grande Bauquière, Moment Singulier, Côtes de Provence 2021 93 POA Alliance Wine New oak on the nose almost dominates the aromas, but exotic flower notes peek round the edges. Charmingly juicy white peach, lychees and creamy (reflecting the chalky limestone of Ste-Victoire) and sweet nutty new oak up front, with some hidden depth of dark berry and cherry fruit developing on the palate. Beautiful structure, with some gentle tannins and lime acidity. A serious gastronomic wine with ageing potential. Drink 2022-2028 Alcohol 13% 2 Moulin-La-Viguerie, La Combe des Rieu, Tavel, Rhône 2020 93 £29-£29.50 (2019) Natty Boy Wines, Salusbury Winestore Even with a good amount of white grape varieties in the blend, this wine is full of juicy raspberries, cherries and strawberries, with supple, intense black tannins and…

Barolo 2018 1 1 Giacomo Conterno, Francia, Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo 2018 98 One of the greatest crus of Serralunga, this shines for its deep mineral aroma with liquorice root, rhubarb, strawberry and macerated flowers. The attack is fleshy and tense, with long, lifted acidity pushing earthy strawberry and watermelon fruits. The tannins are ripe and velvety with the dustiness of Nebbiolo yet sweetness on the finish. It will go for at least a couple of decades. Drink 2022-2040 Alcohol 14.5% 2 2 GB Burlotto, Monvigliero, Verduno, Barolo 97 £706.67-£729 (ib) Crop & Vine, Cru, Ideal Wine Co, VinQuinn Burlotto’s Monvigliero is an extremely detailed wine and shines for its elegance. After a slightly funky aroma at first, it opens up to reveal cinnamon, burnt orange zest, parma violets and earthy…

The terroir-driven, expressive and mouthwatering nature of Riesling make this grape variety a common favourite among wine experts. Precise, with a breadth of quality and style, Riesling wines continue to excite the Decanter World Wine Awards judges, and not just those from classic regions such as Germany’s Mosel or Wachau in Austria. At the 2021 competition, top results ranged from San Antonio in Chile to Moravia, Czech Republic. And, with Gold medal winners retasted a minimum of three times – the Platinum & 50 Best in Show even more – results from DWWA offer a definitive guide to outstanding quality across the globe. While great Riesling styles range from sparkling to sweet, find here a selection of the top-scoring dry to medium-dry Riesling wines awarded across eight countries, with some…

With culinary inspiration dating back to 1935, our restaurant brand Madhu’s specialises in South Asian cuisine with an East African influence. It’s thanks to the secret recipes handed down across eight decades that we have become caterers for royalty, dignitaries and Asian weddings – and that our original Southall location has been named Best Indian Restaurant multiple times by Pat Chapman’s Cobra Good Curry Guide. Over the past few years I’ve been working on creative combinations to find the perfect wine and Champagne pairings for the specific spices in our recipes. Historically, wines were matched to French cuisine, and so it could be said that pairing wine with Indian spices is almost uncharted territory. We have dedicated countless hours to wine-pairing sessions to find the perfect combinations for the differing…

AUSTRIAN BEAUTIES SYLVIA WU The organisation of the ‘stay-at-home’ edition of the annual Austrian tasting has been impressive two years in a row. Samples arrived in miniature bottles, this time neatly packed in a 6x8 grid, showcasing four wines from each producer chosen by the taster, and masterclasses were available to attend online. My highlights this year include the 2020 vintage of Bründlmayer’s Grüner Veltliner Ried Berg Vogelsang (£38 Millésima) for its elegant, saline stone fruits with the flare of acacia perfume. From the same vintage, the Riesling Ried Zöbinger Heiligenstein (£30 The Wine Reserve) enchants with its floral, zesty fruits and skilful interplay between razor-sharp acidity and residual sugar. The citrus and jasmine nose of Allram’s Riesling Ried Heiligenstein 1ÖTW 2020 (allram.at) is immediately intoxicating, while acacia and peach-skin…

We received a whopping 149 samples for this marathon tasting, illustrating just how competitive this sector of the Malbec market is. Having recently taken part in the impressive premium Malbec tasting for Decanter, I was keen to assess the value proposition at the more affordable end of the market. Disappointingly I was left underwhelmed and somewhat confused as to the direction that producers are pursuing at the grass roots level. Stylistic uncertainty seems to be the key issue, as well as inconsistency. At the premium end we had seen a refreshing move away from over-extraction and over-oaking towards an emphasis on purity and expression of place. Yet here we saw too many clumsy wines, with winemakers favouring style over substance. David Williams made an interesting observation: ‘In Spain, the focus…

91 Domaine de l’Idylle, Pétille Idylle Brut, Crémant de Savoie, France NV £18.95 Yapp Bros From Savoie in southeast France, the use of varieties native to the region, such as Jacquère and Altesse, gives a creamy, distinctive wine, with bruised apple, lemon and biscuit character and delicious apricot croissant complexity. NE Alcohol 12.5% 91 Roger Goulart, Gran Reserva Brut, Cava, Catalonia, Spain 2015 V £16.99 Luvians Part of the Rioja-based CVNE stable, this blend of Xarel.lo, Macabeo and Parellada was aged for 48 months. Lovely depth to the creamy palate: pineapple, ripe lemon, stone fruit, nuts, toastiness, crème patissière. Tiny, persistent bubbles. JS Alc 12% 92 Domaine André Vatan, Les Perriers Sancerre, Loire, France 2020 £19.95 Yapp Bros Try and drink just one glass of this Loire Valley Sauvignon…

GRAHAM’S AND WARRE’S SPECIAL EDITIONS Special editions of Graham’s and Warre’s Vintage Ports will be released by Symington Family Estates to mark the houses’ 200th and 350th anniversaries respectively. Three thousand bottles of Graham’s 2020 Bicentenary Edition 2020 Vintage Port and 2,400 bottles of Warre’s 2020 Vinhas Velhas 350th Anniversary Edition will be available ‘en primeur’ from mid-June. RARE BURGUNDY Christie’s will auction Henri Jayer wines cellared by King’s College, Cambridge on 8 June. Featuring 45 lots, the auction also features wines from Jayer’s nephew, Emmanuel Rouget. ‘This collection is sure to resonate with collectors the world over,’ said Noah May, head of Christie’s wine and spirits department. PETRUS 2021 Most Bordeaux en primeur wines are usually out by July, but UK merchant Corney & Barrow will run its Petrus 2021…

When I first visited Bordeaux, the sleepy landscape of turreted stone châteaux and vineyards seemed timeless, with traditions so well established you felt they would go on forever. But new energy in this famous wine region is visible and audible: bees buzz and sheep graze in organic vineyards; brand-new cellars brim with sustainable features and wine fermenting in trendy amphorae; unusual grapes are gaining attention; and the number of women in key roles keeps growing. Yoga among the vines is surely coming. Change is Bordeaux’s new constant, and innovative winemakers and château owners across every appellation are helping to upend the status quo. Who are they? They’re the younger generation, which has travelled widely and sees the challenges of climate change. They’re newcomers from elsewhere, bringing new ideas to estates…

T heart of mastering a job you never expected to have has been played out twice over at Château Léoville Poyferré, the family-owned and -run property situated in the north of the Médoc’s St-Julien appellation. It is one of five second-growth classified estates in the commune, three of those sharing, perhaps confusingly, the Léoville name: Châteaux Léoville Las Cases, Léoville Barton and Léoville Poyferré. What unites the estates, apart from a shared property in the case of Las Cases and Poyferré, is also what sets them apart – each the result of family inheritances and property divisions of the original Léoville vineyard (see ‘history’ box, right). One of the most fascinating parts of the Léoville Poyferré story – and there are many – is that the current, and previous, general…

World consumption of wine crept up by 0.7% last year to 236 million hectolitres (23.6bn litres), the first rise in four years, showed estimates from the OIV (International Organisation of Vine & Wine). The US drinks the most wine overall, while Portugal tops the list on a litres per person basis. Yet OIV director general Pau Roca warned that inflation and supply chain bottlenecks were increasing the wine trade’s costs. ‘The price of containers has multiplied by a factor of 20,’ he said. Charles Heidsieck has said it is sending some of its Champagnes to the US by sailing boat to mark 200 years since the birth of its namesake founder on 17 June. Charles-Camille Heidsieck sailed across the Atlantic in 1852 to help convert Americans to Champagne, earning the…

Vida Valiente is much more than just another winery for Napa winemaker Sam Kaplan. Over the past 20 years, Kaplan has become the shepherd of a growing number of blue-chip Napa wineries, including Arkenstone, Memento Mori and Vangone. His newest project is a joint philanthropic venture with his wife Nancy, along with Memento Mori co-owner Hayes Drumwright and his wife Susana Cueva Drumwright. Both the Kaplans and Drumwrights are aware that part of their individual successes can be attributed to generous mentors – people who gave them an inch, as well as the resources, to turn it into a mile. Which is why the spotlight at Vida Valiente (Spanish for ‘valiant/brave life’) is on charitable giving. Launched in conjunction with California’s Stanford University, the Vida Valiente Foundation provides money and…

Kraken launches limited-edition rum in tie-up with PADI Aware The Kraken Rum has launched a second bottle in its limited-edition Unknown Deep series. Kraken Black Spiced Rum Limited Edition Deep Sea Bioluminescence (Alc 40%) boasts an eye-catching deep blue pearlescent coating on its embossed label and is presented in a black metal ‘diver’s cage’, complete with ‘scratch marks’. Inside the bottle you’ll find a sweet and velvety Caribbean rum with a hit of balancing spice. Layers of toffee, black treacle, Garibaldi biscuits, dried fruit – sultanas, raisins – plus fresher citrus notes and lots of dark spice on the long finish. Kraken has pledged £1 from every sale of the new bottle to marine conservation charity PADI Aware, which empowers scuba divers to remove marine debris from the sea floor…

AGEING: OLD V NEW WORLD I read the articles on Bordeaux 2019 and South American challenger blends (April issue) with interest, but was left with a burning question. The drinking windows for the South American wines were generally no more than 10 years or so, whereas many of the 2019 clarets had drinking windows of 20+ years. Even sub-£50 Bordeaux wines were expected to outlast their South American counterparts at more than double the price. Is it something intrinsic in the wine styles that gives Bordeaux a greater capacity to age? Or is there still a prejudice that New World wines aren’t built for the long haul? Daniel Carter-Clout, London Amanda Barnes, author of The South America Wine Guide, replies: Great question. It’s a combination of prejudice, habit and modesty…

In the realm of white grapes, many consider Riesling as having no peer, with its racy acidity and tangy fruit attracting legions of disciples. Then there’s its innate dexterity, which lies behind wines that run the gamut of styles, from bone dry through to sublimely sweet; Riesling can even turn its hand to fizz. Native to Sicily, the wonderful Carricante may not possess such pliability, yet you don’t need to look too hard to find a number of parallels. Here, too, you find green apple and citrus fruit to the fore – not only the lemon and lime so often associated with Riesling, but also shades of orange and grapefruit. Don’t be surprised if you also detect high-wire acidity and slatey minerals (sound familiar?) facing off against this wall of citrus,…

Choose Godello and you can’t go wrong. That was our verdict from a most enjoyable tasting. From the top-left corner of Spain – Galicia and Bierzo – comes a white grape variety that retains a distinction wherever it grows. It’s as comfortable with oak as without. It covers the gamut of citrus flavours, but additionally can show layers of honey and apricots, as well as potentially offering a mineral or saline finish. If Godello hasn’t been on your top five white wine list, include it now. Albariño, so well established in Rías Baixas, has come to be understood as the Galician white. This, Decanter’s first standalone tasting of Godello, proved there is strong competition in the fine wine stakes. While there were fewer entries (see below) than we would have…

Doña Paula, Estate, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2021 Alistair Cooper MW 94 Dirceu Vianna Junior MW 94 David Williams 90 £12.99 All About Wine, Great Wines Direct, Simply Wines Direct, Strictly Wine Vicacious, perfumed, crushed dark fruits, violets, spice. Vibrant, fresh, concentrated. Drink 2022-2030 Alcohol 14.5% Domaine Bousquet, Reserve, Tupungato, Mendoza 2020 AC 92 DV 93 DW 90 £14.50-£14.95 Davy’s, Vintage Roots Classy and seductive aromas of vibrant and juicy blue fruit, bilberry and fragrant notes of violets and lavender. Sophisticated structure on the palate, wonderfully refreshing finish. Drink 2022-2026 Alc 14.5% Amalaya, Calchaquí Valley, Salta 2020 AC 90 DV 90 DW 90 £11.99 Liberty Wines Ripe nose of cassis, blackberry, liquorice, dried herbs and sweet spices. Juicy palate, mouthfilling, dense and plush. Round tannins. Drink 2022-2026 Alc 14% Antucura, Barrandica,…

92 Pierre Paillard, Les Terres Roses Bouzy Grand Cru Brut Rosé, Champagne, France NV £46.68 Justerini & Brooks Voluptuous, with buttery brioche, freshness sweeping in with lemon and grapefruit under cherry and almond frangipane richness, tense power. The Bouzy terroir is known for exceptional Pinot Noir, but this is majority (65%) Chardonnay. NE Alc 12.5% 93 Little Frances, Luchsinger Vineyard Semillon, Lake County, California 2016 £24.95 Yorkshire Vintners Australian winemaker Erin Pooley has crafted this in a Hunter Valley style. Held back before release, it bristles with steely acidity delivering a grassy freshness to the delicate, complex palate. Lemon butter on toast, gooseberry crumble, waxy lanolin. TG Alc 10.7% 92 Wild Air, Sauvignon Blanc, Hemel-en-Aarde, Walker Bay, South Africa 2020 £24.40-£25 Hedonism, The Sourcing Table This small-production wine is barrel…

An elite group of SuperTuscan labels have consolidated their position on the market, but trade players also see a broadening interest in Italian fine wines. Tignanello has been a standout performer for Italy on the fine wine market over the last year. ‘The scores are high for it, [and] it has quite a strong brand following,’ said Matthew O’Connell, CEO of Bordeaux Index’s LiveTrade platform and head of investment at the merchant. He believes that brand strength is an important factor for the top SuperTuscan wines on the market, namely Tignanello, Sassicaia, Ornellaia and Solaia. ‘Our trading has increased more in Sassicaia and Tignanello than in the other two,’ O’Connell said. All have sustained demand, but indices for Tignanello and Sassicaia rose in value by 31% and 26% respectively over…

JANE ANSON is an awarded wine writer, educator and judge. She was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent over many years, is the author of in-depth study Inside Bordeaux (£60, BB&R Press 2020) and founder of janeanson.com YOHAN CASTAING is a widely published journalist and wine writer, and is foundereditor of wine guide anthocyanes.fr. He grew up near St-Emilion, and has previously worked as a wine buyer and marketing consultant CHARLES CURTIS MW is a widely published journalist, author and fine wine advisor based in New York. Formerly head of wine at Christie’s in the US and Asia, he started out as a chef and travelled to Paris to train at Le Cordon Bleu COLIN HAY is the Professor of Political Economy at Sciences Po in Paris. He writes regularly on Bordeaux, La…

There are some good and charming wines, but no great wines, in 2012. This was the verdict of a producer whose honest judgements I have learned to value, when we tasted the vintage together, en primeur, in April 2013. Retasting the vintage 10 years on, I find he has been proved correct. That’s all right. We need in-between years to drink while waiting for the celebrated vintages to reach their best, especially if they cost less at the outset. Most top 2005s and many 2010s from leading châteaux are still not near their best. Most 2012s are fully ready. The problems began in 2012 in the spring, because flowering was extended in poor weather, resulting in uneven bunches of varying maturity; and as rain continued this was compounded by numerous…

S ome600 participants dined lavishly at the gorgeous First Empire-style Château Margaux to mark its 200th anniversary back in 2015: ‘A fairytale-like event for which I could almost give up any future invitations to dinner in Bordeaux,’ recalls merchant Michael Sands of Calvert Woodley Wines in Washington DC. While you might not be invited to dinner, visiting the Médoc without seeing the splendour of Château Margaux is like eating a cone without the ice cream. Château Margaux was one of only four estates selected as first growth in the 1855 Classification for the Médoc – and the only classified château that bears the name of its appellation. Its Burgundian-like finesse combined with underlying power aptly exemplifies the Margaux appellation’s refined, perfumed elegance. That comes largely from the main slow-toripen Cabernet…

Where the 1990s gave Bordeaux winemakers a number of difficult challenges, the first 10 years of the new millennium were far kinder. Looking back at the decade today, not a single vintage was a complete disaster. There were challenges, unquestionably – 2002, 2004 and 2007 all had tough moments, and 2003 was in a league of its own for sustained drought that lasted through the entire season (although it was greeted with great acclaim at the time by many). But there were also a number of standout vintages, notably 2000, 2005 and 2009, with 2001 becoming a cult classic, and 2008 an underrated star that delivered some of the best prices of the decade. Not a bad 10 years in all. These were also years of significant change in Bordeaux.…