Indholdsfortegnelse for May_2016 i Decanter

France and California enjoy wine export boom FRANCE Wine exports from France and the US hit record levels in 2015, with the former boosted by double-digit growth for international Champagne revenues. According to French wine and spirits exporters association FEVS, French wine exports reached nearly €7.93bn last year, 0.8% above the previous record year, 2012, when figures are adjusted for inflation. FEVS director general Pierre Genest attributed the growth to the success of Champagne exports, which rose 12.1% to nearly €2.7bn, with volumes up nearly 5%. Exports of still French wine fell in volume terms for the third year ina row, declining 5.2%, but the weak euro and a ‘rebound’ in China helped to boost revenues, Genest said. Bordeaux and Burgundy recorded slight falls in exports by volume, but both…

Andrew Jefford ‘Understanding wine means wrestling with flavour and texture’ WINE IS A noisy subject. Its unique synthesis of sensorial, emotional and intellectual attractions stimulates a multitude of conversations. Most of these, though, skirt the subject; the taste of wine itself is rarely discussed. But what about tasting notes? In reality, they don’t tackle taste head on, from zero knowledge. They’re a set of conventional and stylised remarks, often reliant on allusive metaphors, penned by an insider elite to justify critical assessments of wines (usually scores) to other insiders. They almost always assume some knowledge of the sensual identity of the wine in question. They’re a sensorial share-tipping service, if you like. Understanding the taste of wine means wrestling with aroma, flavour and texture. The last two matter most because…

Stephen Brook ‘Modern vinification results in fresher, better balanced wines’ NO TRIP TO Valpolicella is complete without a visit to Masi’s Sandro Boscaini, who has for decades kept the flame of authentic Amarone della Valpolicella burning. For Masi, Amarone – made from air-dried grapes – has always been a rarity, with each vineyard yielding just over 1,000 cases. These are powerful, profoundly fruity, expensive and long-lived wines, and in stark contrast to basic, jug-wine Valpolicella. Amarone became fashionable in the 1990s as volumes soared to more than 1.5 million bottles. (Today it is closer to 18 million). Once it represented a tiny proportion of Valpolicella production. Now it accounts for about 40%. Boscaini, who likes to be known as Mr Amarone, worries, rightly, that this noble wine is being degraded.…

Italy’s top 10 terroirs The interplay between grape variety, geology and microclimates contribute to the production of wines that speak clearly of a specific place. Ian D’Agata selects his star vineyard sites across Italy and recommends 20 unique wines to try Illustration: jontyclark.com FOR THE MOST part Italy is nirvana for wine terroiristes; the country has always been associated with myriad specific terroirs linked to unique wines. In ancient Roman times, many wines were distinguished by their place of growth on a slope or hill: hence, Gauranum (top), Faustianum (middle) and Falernum (foot). Importance of site has continued into modern times: in Friuli, the best Picolit wines have always been associated with four specific places, not the whole region (as the hapless modern DOCG would have you believe); in Campania,…

Wines to try Tenute Silvio Nardi had a great vintage in 2010. All three of its Brunellos from that year shine, putting the estate right up there with the leading producers of the denomination. Tenute Silvio Nardi, Vigneto Poggio Doria, Brunello di Montalcino 2010 95/100 NA/UK www.tenutenardi.com Complex nose with a mix of wild herbs, bilberry and touches of graphite and camphor. Intense palate, firm yet sinuous with an infinite progression and wild berries to finish. Terroir Brunello. Drink 2016-2030 Alcohol 14.5% Tenute Silvio Nardi, Vigneto Manachiara, Brunello di Montalcino 2010 92 £41.67 L’Assemblage Open and broad on the nose with blackberry fruit and iris on an earthy-leafy background. Big, rich opening with great volume and soft tannins, deep finish. Drink 2017-2030 Alc 14.5% Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino…

Brook’s best: 12 top Roero wines Angelo Negro e Figli, Sudisfà Riserva 2011 93/100 £29.22 Exel Lean but fragrant and elegant raspberry nose. Medium-bodied but quiite concentrated, with firm tannins to give it grip. Robust but not heavy, chewy and textured, wih good acidity and persistence. Drink 2017-2024 Alcohol 14.5% Malabaila, Castelletto Riserva 2010 93 £24 Vini Italiani Very ripe nose, yet elegant and pure. Medium-bodied yet concentrated with fine-grained tannins and good acidity. Elegant and persistent, with drive and finesse. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 14% Almondo, Giovanni Almondo Riserva 2011 91 N/A UK www.giovannialmondo.com Lush, opulent raspberry nose. Suave and concentrated, rounded and forward, displaying bold but ripe tannins. Long spicy finish. Drink 2017-2024 Alc 14% Cascina Ca’ Rossa, Mompissano Riserva 2011 91 N/A UK www.cascinacarossa.com Perfumed red-fruits nose. Silky…

Woolf’s pick from Le Marche La Staffa, Rincrocca, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2013 96 POA Armit, Exel Wines From an organic estate, this has pure, fresh aromas of green melon and pear. Delicate herbal and vegetal hints add complexity. Wonderful lift, with lots of concentration and a long, fine finish. Enjoyable now but probably much more to give in time. Drink 2016-2023 Alc 13.5% Cambrugiano, Belisario, Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva 2012 95 £20 Eclectic Tastes, Exel Wines, Liberty Wines, Made in Sicily, Slurp, The Fine Wine Co, Wild Wines, Wine Bear, Wine Works A perfect example of Matelica’s refinement and precision, this has hints of angelica, honey and almond on the nose, with poised, restrained peach fruit. It lasts and lasts, with a saline tang to keep the finish…

Southern Rhône 2014 This pleasant vintage offers fresh and drinkable wines of moderate alcohol – accurate expressions of their terroir. John Livingstone-Learmonth shares his top picks and urges readers not to overlook them in their enthusiasm for the 2015s Photograph: Mike Prior. With thanks to Justerini & Brooks (www.justerinis.com), Vine Trail (www.vinetrail.co.uk), The Wine Society (www.thewinesociety.com) and H2Vin (www.h2vin.co.uk) for the loan of the bottles ‘Right away enjoyment levels are high; these are what the French call digeste – easy to drink’ IN SHARP CONTRAST to the full orchestra charge of the 2015s, in the Rhône, 2014 is a wandering minstrel, a tuneful vintage. As such, its easy pleasures risk being forgotten as the media spotlight swings firmly onto the more recent year’s wines. Enjoyment levels in the ’14s are…

The art of preserving treasured old vines attacked by Esca fungi With grapevine trunk diseases increasingly taking their toll on the world’s vineyards – estimates suggest at least 10% are affected – Marco Simonit and Pierpaolo Sirch have refined an ancient method, described by Pliny, of surgically operating on infected vines to prevent them from dying. The trunk’s wood may become spongy or soft when attacked by Esca fungi, but not the roots or rootstock. Mini-chainsaws are used to cut away the spoiled areas in the same way that a dentist drills a cavity ( 1 ). Operators remove the infected parts without touching the sap channels. Photographs: Carla Capalbo(3) Usually, the exposed wood heals in the sun and air and the plant regenerates and bears fruit ( 2 ).…

Valpolicella Ripasso Highly Recommended 90–94pts Aldegheri, Sant’Ambrogio, Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2013 Decanter average score: 91/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Michael Garner 94 Peter McCombie MW 90 Emily O’Hare 90 £16 Le Nascette Ripe and fragrant with dark berry fruit aromas and notes of tarragon. Quite full and robust with pepper, spice and dark fruit flavours. Great balance and length, ending on a bitter chocolate note. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 14% Villabella, Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2014 91 MG 90 PM 92 EOH 90 £15 Piccola Cellar Meaty and full with dried prune and cranberry aromas. Juicy, robust and dark fruit in the mouth, with earthy spice notes and lively acidity. Has quite a firm backbone; long and built to last. Drink 2016-2024 Alc 14% Corte Sant’Alda, Campi Magri, Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore…

My top three Michael Garner • Aldegheri, Sant’Ambrogio, Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2013 A family-run winery which champions the use of the neglected Dindarella grape. Aromas of cranberries and bitter chocolate. 94 Drink 2016-2025 • Speri, Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2013 One of the area’s most reliable producers now certified organic from the 2015 vintage. This wine has fruit characters which are developing well and taking on a sapid, leafy note. 90 Drink 2016-2022 • Scriani, Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2014 Smaller producer based in Fumane which aims for an authentic, terroir-driven style. A great effort in a difficult vintage – the wine shows fragrance and depth. Slightly austere for now, but should develop well. 88 Drink 2016-2024…

Outstanding 95–97pts Cortes de Cima, Reserva, Alentejano 2011 Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Sarah Ahmed 95 Joanna Locke MW 95 Nick Oakley 95 £55.60 (2009) Prestige Wines Portugal Since planting their first vineyards in Vidigueira in 1991, the Jorgensens have pushed varietal boundaries. Late ripeners Syrah and Petit Verdot thrive in a dry, sunny climate whose growing season is extended by the tempering Atlantic influence. Made only in top years, this rich, powerful, flagship red pairs them with Aragonez and Touriga Nacional. Lavished with new French oak, it is a winning match for lovers of bold, generous, wines with, in 2011, the oomph and balance to go some distance yet. Sarah Ahmed Savoury, intense, tobacco-edged blackcurrant and berry fruits, balsamic, fine tannins. Rich, but lovely balance and length.…

My top three Nick Oakley • Herdade do Peso, Colheita, Alentejo 2012 Mature cedar and cigar box aromas starting to develop, but full of ripe blueberry fruit and a note of garrigue, oak notes and tannins. Good acidity and fine, lingering aromas and aftertaste. Very stylish; made my heart skip a beat. 97 Drink 2016-2020 • João M Barbosa, Lapa dos Gaivões Escolha, Alentejano 2011 Aromas of graphite, blueberry and cigar box , with a brick rim developing. Ripe, dense fruit with good tannins still showing grippiness and starting to form brambly aromas of broom and lavender. 96 Drink 2016-2021 • Terra d’Alter, Reserva, Alentjano 2013 This is a big wine, yet elegant; an iron fist in a velvet glove. Packed with dense graphite, plum and mineral flavours. Spice and…

Expert summary: Sarah Ahmed Strong results reflect a sophisticated grasp of terroir and grapes – this region has areas of excellence with leaner soils and topographical features that moderate heat ‘The panel’s descriptions point to wines of great concentration and power, the best rich yet balanced’ THIS WAS AN impressive outing for Alentejo with five Outstanding wines (all Vinho Regional Alentejano) and compelling consistency. The panel recommended 83% of the entries from varied vintages, sub-regions and varietal blends; more than 40% were Highly Recommended. High praise indeed for a region whose calling card is good-value, smooth, fruity wines. Focusing on wines at £7.99 plus, this tasting attracted entries from top names who showed how much more this vast area offers. The panel’s descriptions point to wines of great character, concentration…

UK stockists Where to find the wines featured in Decanter this month A&B Vintners, Kent (www.abvintners.co.uk) ABS Wine Agencies, Lincs (www.abswineagencies.co.uk) Adnams, Suffolk (www.adnams.co.uk) AG Wines, London (www.agwines.com) AL Kaye Wines (www.alkwines.co.uk) Alexander Hadleigh, Southampton (www.ahadleigh-wine.com) Alfie Fiandaca, London (020 8752 1222) Alivini, London (020 8880 2526) Alliance Wine, Ayrshire (www.alliancewine.co.uk) Amazon (www.amazon.co.uk) AP Harvey, Coventry (www.ap-harvey-wines.co.uk) Armit Wines, London W11 (www.armit.co.uk) Astrum Wine Cellars, Surrey (www.astrumwinecellars.com) Auswineonline, London (www.auswineonline.co.uk) Averys, Bristol (www.averys.com) Bacco Wine, Edinburgh (www.bacco-wine.co.uk) Bancroft, London SE1 (www.bancroftwines.com) Barrica Wines, Lancashire (www.barricawines.co.uk) Bat & Bottle, Oakham (www.batwine.co.uk) Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (www.bbr.com) Bibendum PLB, London NW1 (www.bibendum-wine.co.uk) Big Red Wine Co, Suffolk (www.bigredwine.co.uk) Booths, Preston (www.booths.co.uk) Borough Wines (www.boroughwines.com) Bottle Apostle, London (www.bottleapostle.com) Boutinot Wines, Cheshire (www.boutinot.com) Bray Valley Wines (www.brayvalleywines.co.uk) British Airways Wine Club…

Your Cinque Terre address book Hotels La Torretta, Manarola Ten stylish Mediterranean and oriental rooms, each with a fabulous view and a different layout due to the original tower-house architecture. Guests can use the panoramic terraces and open-air jacuzzi. www.torrettas.com Porto Roca, Monterosso Most of the rooms at this peaceful bougainvillea-clad villa have antiques from the owner’s collection and sea views. Facilities include a restaurant and a wonderful seawater infinity pool. www.portoroca.it Buranco, Monterosso This wine estate also makes olive oil and limoncino and is open daily for tastings. Accommodation is in three apartments with fully equipped kitchens, and breakfast is on an appealing wood and stone veranda overlooking the vines. www.burancocinqueterre.it Edi, Riomaggiore Much Cinque Terre accommodation is in self-catering apartments such as these around Riomaggiore. Most have terraces;…

Grape varieties with Julia Harding MW Verdelho Until recently, Verdelho was the official name in Portugal’s Dão region for the variety known as Gouveio in the Douro or Godello in Galicia. However, the ‘real’ Verdelho (unrelated to Spanish Verdejo) is the one that has been cultivated on the Portuguese island of Madeira since the 17th century, although it is not known if it originated there or on the mainland. Until phylloxera invaded in 1872, Verdelho constituted about two-thirds of the island’s vineyards, but today there are only about 50ha, compared with 100ha or so on the mainland. The variety gives its name to a medium-dry style of Madeira. It is also grown in the Azores and the Alentejo and there’s a little in Savennières (Loire), California, Mendoza, South Africa and…

Hammer highlights • Hart Davis Hart, Chicago, 23 February: 12 bottles of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, La Tâche 1990 sold for $53,775 (high estimate: $45,000); 12 bottles of DRC, assorted 1990 sold for $53,775 (high e: $55,000); one jeroboam of DRC, Romanée-Conti 1998 sold for $47,800 (high e: $60,000); four bottles of DRC, Romanée-Conti 2000 sold for $47,800 (high e: $60,000); 12 bottles of DRC, assorted 1990 sold for $45,410 (high e: $55,000); 12 bottles of Pétrus 1982 sold for $41,825 (high e: $38,000); four bottles of Henri Jayer, Cros Parantoux, Vosne-Romanée 1985 sold for $41,825 (high e: $42,000). • Sotheby’s, London, 24 February: three bottles of DRC, Romanée-Conti 1976 sold for £14,688 (high e: £16,000); 11 bottles of Pétrus 1995 sold for £12,338 (high e: £13,000); 12 bottles of…

John Stimpfig ‘Chile didn’t know how to exploit its natural resources. It does now’ IN CHILE RECENTLY, there were many occasions when I felt I was just one step behind Pedro Parra, the country’s top terroir consultant. Wherever I went, it seemed Parra had just been there – and elusively moved on. This wasn’t my imagination because the evidence of his trademark handiwork was there to see – oblong-shaped pits or trenches roughly four feet across and six feet deep. It was as though Parra had left a trail for me to follow. He began carving them out just over a decade ago. And now these calicatas are everywhere, from Elqui in the north to Bio Bio in the south. There must be thousands of them peppering Chile’s most exciting…

Around the wine world Disease and vine age threaten Burgundy shortage FRANCE The wines of Burgundy could become even rarer in future as a result of vine disease, and of smaller harvests from ageing vineyards, says a report from the region’s wine council. Demand for Burgundy remains strong, with prices for the most sought-after wines at an all-time high, and is likely to strengthen further should crops be reduced as a result of vine age and disease. Burgundy vineyards have ‘aged and the yields reduced significantly since 2000 in response to a range of factors’, said Corinne Trarieux, from regional wine council the BIVB’s Technical Centre. Degenerative vine diseases, such as esca or fanleaf, affect almost 14% of vineyards, ultimately killing many vines – with more than 100,000ha of vines…

Letter of the month Broaden your Pinot Noir horizons AS A DIE-HARD Pinot Noir lover, I find it fascinating that nine of the 11 top-rated wines in your ‘Best Pinot Noirs outside Burgundy’ tasting (April 2016 issue) hail from the New World. When Burgundy remains the benchmark for so many winemakers working with this fickle grape, why is it that the most successful examples outside France are made hundreds – even thousands – of miles away? And the two Old World wines could hardly enjoy a lower profile. How many of us have tasted a Swiss Pinot? German Spätburgunder is slowly building a reputation, but is still rarely seen in the wine aisles. Surely more Old World winemakers could rise to the challenge and produce Pinot Noir to rival Burgundy?…

What I’ve been drinking this month I’ve been enjoying the natural wines of the pioneering Tuscan organic producer Fattoria La Vialla and appreciating the industriousness upon which their direct-sales approach is based. The sparkling Le Chiffon 2014 is cloudy and sediment-laden, yet not deviant in flavour: texturally rich and alive with fruit flavours. The cloudy Barricato Bianco 2013 (Vernaccia, presumably) was impressive, too: structured and hauntingly aromatic, with gentle, caressing acidity. They probed my comfort zone – and expanded my horizons.…

What I’ve been drinking this month I deviated from a brief holiday in Malta to try some of the island’s wines. Inexpensive bottles from the largest producers such as Marsovin and Meridiana were sound and good value, but hardly exceptional. More impressive was the range from boutique winery San Niklaw. In the south of the island, surgeon John Cauchi makes about 10,000 bottles of four wines. The Vermentino 2013 was fruity and vibrant, but my favourite wine was the Sangiovese 2010, still taut and youthful. Who would expect Sangiovese to succeed near the African coast?…

The kings of Burgundy The days when négociants held sway over the highs and lows of market pricing may be over, but they still wield enormous power over the quality of millions of bottles of Burgundy made each year, says Bill Nanson ‘Fifty per cent of Burgundy bottles are négoce bottles – more than 90 million bottles’ worth’ THE NAMES OF Burgundy’s largest négociants, or maisons as they prefer to be known, have changed very little in recent years, but by necessity much has changed in the way they operate. They are faced with a reduced pipeline of grapes as old suppliers ‘go it alone’ and, of course, due to consecutive low-yielding vintages. These tendencies are straining their old, market-making positions, where merchants were known to balance out the highs…

Livingstone-Learmonth’s top southern Rhônes Wines are listed within their appellations from north to south, then by score, then alphabetically by producer. They are red unless specified. Vinsobres Domaine Jaume, Altitude 420 90/10 £4.58 (in bond) The Wine Society Oaky nose with streamlined fruit. Stylish, free-flowing palate, making a polished and well-sustained wine with lively tannins. Good value. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 14% Domaine Vallot, Le Coriançon 90 £15.99 The Winery Gentle blackberry and mixed herbs nose. Wavy fruit palate with, crisp tannins and good length: a fine spark of clarity. Drink 2017-2023 Alc 14% Rasteau Domaine Grand Nicolet, Vieilles Vignes 93 £15.95 Winegrowers Direct Coulis-style, layered fruit aromas. Generous wine with inner strength, balance and depth. Top Rasteau! Drink 2016-2024 Alc 15% Domaine Combe Julière, Tradition 90 POA Hallgarten Druitt Sunny,…

Can you taste the earth move? Trimbach, Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling, Alsace, France 2009 93/100 £38.86 AG Wines, Berry Bros & Rudd Riesling seems to mirror terroir better than many grapes. This famous cuvée from the Geisberg and Osterberg grands crus on Ribeauvillé’s fault line exudes freshness, minerality and structure, even in this hot vintage. Drink 2016-2028 Alcohol 12.5% Craggy Range, Te Muna Road Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough, New Zealand 2014 90 £15-£20 Exel Wines, Hennings, The New Zealand Cellar, The New Zealand House of Wine A fault line runs through this vineyard in Martinborough. It has classic aromas of lemongrass and crushed herbs, but has more depth, verve and complexity than most New Zealand Sauvignons. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13% Rhys Vineyards, Alpine Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains, California, USA…

Spurrier’s World Decanter’s globetrotting consultant editor gives us a round-up of recent tastings, his views on current issues in the wine world and top bottles to drink or keep ‘What the Paris tasting did was to create a template whereby unknown wines of quality could go up against the recognised benchmarks’ Naples Winter Wine Festival My invitation to attend the Naples (Florida) Winter Wine Festival came 18 months ago, with the request that I create a lot for its annual auction. Over 11 years the auction has raised $146,000,000 (£103m) for the Naples Children & Education Foundation, which is dedicated to improving the lives of at-risk and underprivileged children. Wine is a fine vehicle for raising money, bringing people together here in a shared sense of conviviality and commitment over…

The results A solid tasting that showed the merits of this food-friendly and original wine style, while also highlighting a few points for producers to consider. Tina Gellie reports NO WINE SCORED more than 91 points, which on paper may look disappointing, but the results were what our tasters expected for a ‘confusing, yet approachable and popular wine style’. Emily O’Hare explained: ‘It’s hard to know what to expect with Ripasso. If you are simply looking for a well-made medium- to full-bodied red, then a lot of these wines tick the box. But for me, I want to taste that refermentation character – something more interesting, with freshness and complexity but also weight and lift. In many instances in this tasting that was like asking for the moon on a…

My top three Peter McCombie MW • Ca’ La Bionda, Malavoglia, Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2012 This traditionally styled Ripasso from Marano offers herbs and leafy notes, overlaid with spiced raisins. It’s rich and weighty, yet balanced with a long, dry finish. 93 Drink 2016-2022 • Le Salette, I Progni, Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2013 From Fumane, I Progni shows youthful dark fruit, with herbal, peppery spice nuances. The palate has fresh acidity and a spicy tail. 92 Drink 2016-2022 • Nicolis, Seccal, Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2012 I liked the Ripasso character of this single-vineyard wine, expressed as grandma’s pot pourri and hints of raisins without submerging red cherry characters. In the mouth there is freshness, bringing old-school austerity. 91 Drink 2016-2025…

The results Regionally typical, rich blends excited our judges, who enthused about cool, peppery Syrah combined with other key varieties. John Stimpfig reports THIS WAS A unanimously enjoyable and positive tasting. ‘It was impressive to see so many quality wines from the Alentejo,’ said Joanna Locke MW. Nick Oakley was equally effusive. ‘The quality was surprisingly high.’ What delighted Sarah Ahmed was ‘seeing some really good Alentejo character with that typical richness. Across the board, this was a strong showing; there was a lot to get excited about.’ This red wine region is almost entirely made up of blends, but our tasters were very taken with how the key varieties performed. Syrah caught the eye of Oakley. ‘It has a unique style in Alentejo, leaning more to cool northern Rhône…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Herdade do Peso, Colheita, Alentejo 2012 94 SA 93 JL 92 NO 97 £12.99 The Wine Library Mature cigar-box aromas and full of ripe blueberry and raspberry, which are well integrated with high-quality creamy oak. With smooth, ripe tannins, this wine is stylish, lingering on the palate, and leaves notes of lavender and tar. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14.5% Herdade dos Grous, Moon Harvested, Alentejo 2014 93 SA 92 JL 94 NO 92 £22.90-£30 Carruthers & Kent, Marta Vine, Prestige Wines Portugal A savoury, black olive and leather nose and palate with pepper and spice and ripe black cherry. A garrigue character with dried herbal nuances to its blackberry in creamy oak and big soft tannins. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 14% Monte da Ravasqueira, Reserva, Alentejano 2013 93 SA…

My top three Sarah Ahmed • Mouchão, Alentejo 2010 The original Alicante Bouschet. Modern-style reds tend to be dense, but Mouchão has a terroir-driven approach. Savoury, intense and persistent, it has this estate’s signature eucalyptus lift. 96 Drink 2016-2025 • José Maria da Fonseca, Ripanço Private Selection, Alentejano 2014 This revivalist of ancient Roman traditions is now using a ripanço table to manually de-stem grapes. It has produced a creamy red with blackberry and plum fruit. 93 Drink 2016-2022 • Susana Esteban, Aventura, Alentejano 2014 Esteban’s unoaked, junior red puts fruit and freshness centre-stage. Delicate and drinkable, it’s an example of new-wave red winemaking, but old-vine freshness shines through. 92 Drink 2016-2021…

Barbera d’Asti and Nizza The ever-popular Barbera grape is grown in many regions of Italy, but is most at home in Piedmont. Ian D’Agata zooms in even further to pick 18 great examples ‘The only disappointing thing about Barbera d’Asti is that many wine lovers and experts are not aware of its high quality’ BARBERA IS ONE of Italy’s most popular wine grapes, grown not just in Piedmont but in many regions of Italy, including Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, Lazio and Campania. In fact, Barbera is the sixth most-planted grape variety in Italy. However, it is undoubtedly in Piedmont where the grape performs best, and wines such as Barbera d’Alba, Barbera d’Asti, Barbera del Monferrato and Barbera dei Colli Tortonesi are much sought-after. To put Barbera’s popularity in perspective, consider that 33%…

Daniel Boulud My Lyon The lively local bars and restaurants of this vital trade centre are the best spots to enjoy regional culinary specialities that match the wines of nearby Burgundy, Rhône and Bugey ‘Growing up in a farm outside the city, I first experienced Lyon while going with my father to the market every Saturday’ LYON HAS BEEN an important area for wine lovers for centuries, because of its geographic proximity to so many regions that produce excellent wines – Burgundy (including Beaujolais and Mâconnais), northern Rhône and Bugey. The Rhône and Saône rivers that bisect the city made Lyon a key trade centre as well, linking Burgundy to Marseilles. Lyon was always an industrial city with an affluent society that could spend on dining. This helped earn food…

In brief Shutov venue plans wine sales The new restaurant venture from Leonid Shutov – the man behind London’s Bob Bob Ricard venue – will include a rolling programme of instant wine auctions. The as yet unnamed restaurant, planned for the Leadenhall Building, will have 180 covers plus private dining options, and will relay live wine auctions via display screens throughout the restaurant. It is expected to open in 2017. Graham’s to mark Queen’s 90th Graham’s Port and Berry Bros & Rudd will collaborate on a limited-edition Port to mark the 90th birthday of HM The Queen. Details were yet to be released at the time of writing, but Graham’s said it had been ‘meticulously selected’ from wines in Graham’s cellars. The companies previously worked together on a single-harvest Tawny…

Isole e Olena, Cepparello 1982 Tuscany, Italy A legend because… First produced in 1980, Cepparello was one of the original SuperTuscans. Unlike most of the others, it was made entirely from Sangiovese (although a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon was added in a very few vintages). Paolo de Marchi, owner and winemaker of the Isole e Olena estate, was not opposed to international varieties, and became known for his single-varietal Chardonnay, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon bottlings, but he also wanted to demonstrate the potential of pure Sangiovese at a time when the Chianti Classico regulations required the inclusion of other grape varieties. Looking back In the 1980s Chianti Classico producers were supposed to include (white) Trebbiano grapes in the blend, although many growers, including De Marchi, simply ignored the requirement. From…

In brief Cairanne has been awarded cru status – the 17th Côtes du Rhône appellation to do so, and the first in six years, following the promotion of Rasteau in 2010. From the 2016 vintage, wines can be labelled as Cairanne AC, without the need to add ‘Côtes du Rhône-Villages’. A historic part of Burgundy is set to be revived with the backing of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti co-owner Aubert de Villaine. The new wine from the enclave on the outskirts of Dijon, Crémant de Talant, takes its name from a commune where 150ha of vines were planted in 1209. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti topped the annual Sotheby’s Wine Ranking for the third successive year in 2015, selling more than US$10m of wine across Sotheby’s auction and retail operations. Burgundy…

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Jane Anson ‘These vines have never been treated, but are resistant to diseases’ THE WEATHER IN Bordeaux on Wednesday 23 September 2015 was radiantly warm and sunny, one of a crop of perfect autumn days that marked out a month with just 35.4mm of rainfall in the city centre, a full 52% less than the 10-year average. The crowd in Place de la Victoire was taking advantage of the heat. Besides the iconic archway leading to rue Ste-Catherine, the longest pedestrianised street in Europe, place de la Victoire is also the site of a bronze and red marble column designed to honour viticulture and winemaking. A group of students was sitting at its base, sharing a bottle of wine. I didn’t stop to ask if they were aware of the…

Nanson’s top 24 négociant buys Bouchard Père et Fils, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 2013 98/100 £178.33 Millésima Overtly fresh aroma and a clear mineral character, with no obvious reduction. In the mouth this is on a massive scale: full of complexity and displaying a beautiful energy. A mineral wine but with brilliant clarity and even some tannin too. Drink 2016-2040 Alcohol 13% Louis Latour, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2013 96 £113.33 Forth Wines/Inverarity Morton, Millésima Slightly compressed aromas but the base and mid-range notes reveal a compellingly beautiful, complex wine. But what scale we have on the palate: super-complex; every part of your mouth active! The finish comes with small waves of reprise. A beautiful thing that you can either sniff or drink, ideally both. Drink 2016-2040 Alc 13.5% Domaine du Pavillon…

The Decanter interview Cathy Corison Despite changing fashions, the first lady of Napa Cabernet has always been steadfastly focused on restrained, balanced wines. She tells William Kelley about her remarkable 40-year career and ‘the wine inside me that wanted to get out’ Photograph: Jim Wilson/New York Times/Redux/Eyevine WHEN CATHY CORISON packed all her possessions into her Volkswagen Beetle and moved to Napa in 1975, the valley was a very different place. Back then, she recalls, Napa was ‘rural, poor and depressed: just scratching its way out of Prohibition’. But it was also ‘a time of amazing energy’, as new wineries opened their doors and began to reach a global audience. Only a year later, Steven Spurrier’s Judgement of Paris tasting of 1976 would prove that California’s…

Pruning: why getting it right matters Two Italian agronomists have transformed the way many of the world’s top wineries prune their vines. Their pioneering approach has been adopted by estates as prestigious and diverse as Champagne Louis Roederer, Angelo Gaja and a series of top Bordeaux châteaux. Carla Capalbo reaches for the secateurs WE’RE SO USED to seeing vines in vineyards standing rigidly to attention that it’s easy to forget the vine (Vitis vinifera) is not a tree but a rapacious climbing plant whose tendency is to cling to any support it can find. As with clematis, fine tendrils keep the vine off the ground, protecting it from wind damage. Where a vine grows undisturbed, it climbs up trees, its leaves and berries reaching for the light. ‘The vine naturally…

Steven recommends... (for full details of UK stockists, see p109) Domaine Stéphane Aladame, Crémant de Bourgogne Extra Brut, France 2013 90 £18.99 widely available via UK agent Liberty Wines A blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Aligoté with a dosage of only 3%. The fresh florality, white summer fruits and vivacity make this a perfect aperitif. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 12% Jules Taylor Wines, Gruner Veltliner, Marlborough, New Zealand 2014 91 £16.95 Harvey Nichols, Vagabond Still rare in Marlborough, Gruner Veltliner is gaining traction. This example is clear and clean with white pepper spice and a lovely texture that’s crisper than most Austrian versions. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13% Domaine Skouras, Moscofilero, Peloponnese, Nemea, Greece 2015 90 £9.95 (2014) Berry Bros & Rudd Founded in 1986 by Dijon-trained George Skouras, these high-altitude…

The judges Michael Garner Garner has worked in the wine business for more than 30 years and has specialised in Italian wine for more than 25 of them. He is the co-author of Barolo: Tar and Roses, is a regular contributor to Decanter, and has taught for the Wine & Spirit Education Trust. Peter McCombie MW New Zealand-born, UK-resident McCombie works as a writer and is a wine list consultant for a number of restaurants and hotels. He is a speaker and wine educator who also judges wine around the world. Emily O’Hare O’Hare lives in Florence and is studying to become an Italian Ambassador of Wine at the Vinitaly International Academy. Formerly wine buyer/ head sommelier at London’s River CafŽ, she also worked the 2014 harvest in Italy. She…

My top three Emily O’Hare • Corte Sant’Alda, Campi Magri, Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2013 From her biodynamically farmed estate, Marinella Camerani produces wines that exude freshness and vitality. This wine has a delightful cherry flavour, intensified by the 24 months spent in cherrywood barrels. 92 Drink 2016-2022 • Monte del Fra’, Lena di Mezzo, Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2013 Monte del Fra is a family-run business, with a production of one million bottles, but there is dedication to quality. This wine from Fumane shows Corvina’s violet perfume and some fine tannins. 92 Drink 2016-2020 • Begali Lorenzo, La Cengia, Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2013 I felt I understood the quote which describes the style as ‘the marriage of a king and a commoner’. This wine is powerful and playful –…

Expert summary: Richard Baudains Cast expectations of the exceptional aside and sample Valpolicella Ripasso as an original, reliable and enjoyable food wine without pretensions to greatness ‘On paper, 2013 was a better vintage than 2012, but in the tasting they came in equal’ THE RESULTS PRESENT a faithful picture of the state of Valpolicella Ripasso. Quality is very consistent, with most of the wines in the Recommended band and 15 Highly Recommended. But the tasters did not find any wine with that extra spark to take it into the Outstanding or Exceptional classes. This may be due either to a lack of ambition by producers or an intrinsic limitation of the wine itself. Whatever the reason, perhaps the conclusion to draw is that overly high expectations are out of place…

The judges Sarah Ahmed Ahmed, who publishes The Wine Detective, is Regional Chair for Portugal at the DWWA. A London-based wine writer, educator and judge, she won the Vintners Cup in 2003, and was named Portuguese Annual Wine Awards’ Writer of the Year 2009. In 2013, she was admitted to the rank of Cavaleiro of the Confraria do Vinho do Porto for her commitment and contribution to Port wine. Joanna Locke MW Locke joined the UK wine industry after studying French and has worked in buying, marketing and PR after starting in Harrods’ wine department. Since 2004, she has worked as a wine buyer at The Wine Society, and is responsible for buying the wines of the Loire, Portugal, South Africa and Alsace. Nick Oakley Oakley has been in the…

My top three Joanna Locke MW • Susana Esteban, Aventura, Alentejano 2014 Aventura nosed ahead of Procura to be my pick of the newcomers (Esteban is a very experienced winemaker but only started her personal Alentejo quest in 2009). No Touriga Nacional blowsiness here – this is a finely judged wine. 95 Drink 2016-2021 • José Maria da Fonseca, Montado, Alentejano 2014 Great value from one of Portugal’s household names. This stand-out wine is a cleverly made yet convincing blend enriched by a short sojourn in US oak. 94 Drink 2016-2021 • Terra d’Alter, Alfrocheiro, Alentejano 2014 With its origins in the Dão, it was no surprise that this was the only 100% Alfrocheiro wine in the tasting. This bright-fruited red refreshed the palate. 90 Drink 2016-2020…

Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s tastings director Christelle Guibert has done the hard work for you by picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines at under £20 – all UK-available * denotes supermarket and high-street wines Comte Philippe de Nazelle, Cabidos Petit Manseng Sec, Pyrenées-Atlantiques, France 2010 91 £10.95 The Wine Society This historic property came back in production in 1992 and today 9ha are planted. Made from the local Petit Manseng and vinified dry, which is rare for this grape. Fresh pineapple and honey on a full, textured palate with real focus. Alc 14.5% Mother Rock & JH Meyer, White, Swartland, South Africa 2015 91 £15.95 Indigo Wine A venture between winemaker Johan Meyer and Ben…

READERS’ QUERIES Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge Email: ask@decanter.com. Post: The Editor, Decanter , Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London SE1 0SU, UK This month’s experts Richard Mayson is the DWWA Regional Chair for Port & Madeira Pere Bonet is the president of the Cava regional regulation council Simon Woolf is an awarded wine writer specialising in natural wine Treading carefully Can robotic foot treading ever be as good as foot treading by real people? Judith Cragg, Surrey Richard Mayson replies: Judging from the quality of recent Port vintages – yes! There has been a revolution in Port wine technology over the past 20 years with the development of robotic plunging and treading. The single greatest advance was the…

Tasting notes decoded Menthol/ mint Monte dos Perdigões, Tapada do Baraõ, Colheita Seleccionada, Alentejano 2014 92 SA 95 JL90 NO 92 £12 Emilia’s Delicatessen Lovely combination of herbaceous notes and red fruits, ripe earthy raspberry with a hint of mint and creamy milk chocolate. Nice oak character with sweet, fragrant fruit emerging on the palate. Smooth with firm tannins lending balance. Drink 2016-2021 Alc 14.5% Mint, or menthol aromas can be common in varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon grown in cooler climates like Bordeaux, Chile and Coonawarra in South Australia, but can also be found in other varieties such as Aragonez and Alicante Bouschet. A mint aroma differs from a eucalypt note, which normally comes from contamination by nearby eucalypt trees. It has recently been discovered that mintiness in wine…

Collector’s corner Champagne de Venoge, Princes NV £59 Zonin UK Three cuvées taking their name from a Champagne created for the Princes of Orange in 1851. The rosé, blanc de blancs and blanc de noirs sit in price between Cordon Bleu and Louis XV. Barbadillo, Versos 1891 £8,000 Hedonism, Harvey Nichols, Berry Bros & Rudd, Selfridges This amontillado has spent 125 years in the company’s cellars – one of the oldest and rarest Sherries ever to be released. Champagne de Castelnau, Blanc de Blancs 2003 £43 Nicolas Aged on lees for 11 years, recently disgorged and a mature example of a year marked by spring frost and summer heat. Just 11,000 bottles available.…