Indholdsfortegnelse for April 2016 i delicious

EASTER TRADITIONS VARY in every household, but one thing remains more or less the same: an abundance of chocolate or at least delicious food eaten with family. Despite many chefs taking it off the menu at venues around the country lately, we’re still big fans here at delicious. (How on earth could chocolate ever go out of style?) This month it all starts with Phoebe Wood’s Wicked chocolate feature (p 74), with the added bonus of a Black Forest cake reinvented; Valli Little reworks Easter buns (p 110), and Jamie Oliver does his best pancakes ever (p 66). It’s not all sweet talking though – Sydney chef Brent Savage weaves his magic wand over vegetables (p 96), Matt Wilkinson experiments with vanilla (p 118), Shannon Harley has healthy one-pot wonders…

TWO CHEFS WITH A REPUTATION for getting their hands dirty join forces in regional NSW as delicious. and Foxtel’s LifeStyle FOOD channel celebrate the upcoming fourth season of River Cottage Australia , and the news that host Paul West (pictured left, with James Viles far left) is joining the delicious. Produce Awards as a state judge, with a seasonal lunch in the Southern Highlands. West will jump in the kitchen at Biota Dining with delicious. Regional Chef of the Year 2015 James Viles for an afternoon of celebration featuring local ingredients and a nose-to-tail attitude. Both chefs have serious pedigree and a penchant for foraging, hunting and growing their own, so expect a refined, but natural approach with a menu featuring wild greens from the region, native meats such as…

CORIANDER Even though coriander is native to Southern Europe, its use is probably more associated with Latin and Asian preparations, as it is the seeds, not the leaves, that are preferred by Europeans. In India, coriander is eaten extensively, with ground seeds making up part of the ubiquitous spice mix garam masala, and the leaves used as garnish. Coriander may be an acquired taste, with some claiming it can taste ‘soapy’ with an unpleasant smell. But those who love it use it with abandon, covering dishes with a storm of leaves and grinding the roots for curry pastes. CAULIFLOWER Best known as a creamy white brassica (there are also purple and green varieties) in the same family as broccoli and cabbage, cauliflower has often been eaten boiled – still great…

AUTUMN DROPS We all know that summer comes with whites, thirst-slaking drinks that quench our dry throats and match our love of outdoor activities. In winter, we work our way through big, bold reds in front of fireplaces. Spring sees young, fresh whites and frisky, crisp reds, barely through fermentation but bursting with new season appeal. So what of autumn? Easter time is synonymous with chocolate, but what’s often forgotten while we’re ripping the heads off chocolate bunnies is that it’s also one of the best times of year to be drinking fermented things. I think of it as a period for B-side wines and lesser known varieties. It’s a season for medium-bodied reds, whites with texture, wines with a little maturity and maybe even a complex-flavoured beer or two.…

EVEN THOUGH NO ONE has invented a new chord for years, the charts are full of new music from Taylor Swift, Calvin Harris and Chvrches. Chefs are far luckier because the world is full of ingredients to discover, both new and those largely unknown outside of where they grow. In the last days of El Bulli, Ferran Adria was importing roses from Ecuador whose petals tasted like globe artichokes, making dishes with pine needles, and serving a single succulent oysterleaf with no more dressing than a couple of dew-drop pearls of vinegar. At the time all were unusual and unique ideas. Now however, whether you are eating in San Francisco or San Sebastian, Copenhagen or Cape Town, Melbourne or Manchester, you’ll find a dizzying selection of ‘new’ leaves hitting the…

“Everyone needs a fail-proof, sexy chocolate cake in their repertoire and this no-bake recipe means no surprises, in a good way – adios cracked, burnt or sunken sponge.” S’MORE PIE SERVES 6-8 This is my take on the classic US bonfire dessert of melted marshmallows sandwiched between cookies. 11/4 cups (185g) self-raising flour, sifted 1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar 1/3 cup (35g) cocoa, plus extra to dust 1/2 firmly packed cup (125g) brown sugar 1 egg 85g unsalted butter, melted, cooled 1/2 cup (125ml) milk 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 100g dark chocolate, roughly chopped MARSHMALLOW TOPPING 2 cups (440g) caster sugar 8 eggwhites 80g white marshmallows, chopped Preheat oven to 160°C. Combine the flour, caster sugar, cocoa and1/4 cup (60g) brown sugar in a bowl. Combine egg, butter, milk…

“I HAD TO CONVINCE A LOT OF PEOPLE TO GO VEGO, BUT WE’VE ALWAYS BEEN KNOWN FOR DOING REALLY GOOD VEGETABLE DISHES AT OUR RESTAURANTS (INCLUDING YELLOW, BENTLEY RESTAURANT + BAR AND MONOPOLE), AND IT’S SOMETHING I’M REALLY PASSIONATE ABOUT. AT YELLOW, WE’VE BEEN WORKING ON FERMENTATION, JUICES AND MAKING OUR OWN CURDS.” FENNEL-INFUSED BUTTERMILK WITH BABY RADISHES SERVES 6 Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. 1/4 cup (40g) fennel seeds 1 star anise 300ml buttermilk 1 bunch baby breakfast radishes or small red radishes, stems intact Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle Preheat oven to 160°C. Roast fennel seeds and star anise on a small baking tray for 5 minutes or until fragrant. Reserve 1 tsp roasted fennel seeds and place remaining fennel seeds and star anise in a…

BEING A CHEF IS EXTREMELY HARD WORK , but it has taken me to many countries and introduced me to many an amazing person. Recently, on a visit to see the plantations and production of Heilala Vanilla and coconut oil on the island of Vava’u in Tonga, I had to pinch myself and think how lucky I was, such was the level of inspiration. I’ve been using the Ross and Boggiss families’ Heilala Vanilla beans and paste for a good ten years now and know them well. John Ross ‘the old man’, (he’s in his 70s, but if we had to run a marathon together I’d lose), started the business back in 2002 after a cyclone devastated the island. Some 13 years on, he has created a community of farmers…

MACAKIZI HOTEL IS A WATERFRONT oasis and one of my favourite places in the world for a European summer escape, a chic hideaway discovered by chance many years ago. It’s beckoned me back ever since, as much for its food as its dramatic setting. Situated on the tip of Turkbuku, a small bay village on the southwest coast of the Bodrum peninsula, this is Turkey at its most stylish and contemporary best. There’s a delicious intimacy to this family-run place. Staff are friendly and attentive and I always feel like I have joined a big family beach vacation. Cyclamen bougainvillea cascades in a wave of magenta down the hillside and over the rooftop terraces of each whitewashed pavilion. Expansive wooden decks over the water welcome sunbathers and lounge lizards, serving…

GROW YOUR OWN » dig, sow, pick, cook Our gardening experts get down and dirty to dig up their top tips on sowing seeds, what to grow right now, and how to impress at the table with heirloom vegetables. MEET YOUR MATCHA RECIPES, TIPS AND HOW-TOS ON 2016’S CULT INGREDIENT – THAT DELICIOUS GREEN TEA POWDER CALLED MATCHA. ALE OF A TIME From the best boutique beers to Australia’s first beer trail, we line up the bottles and schooners to uncover the country’s best amber drops. 5500 + recipes from your favourite chefs, including Jamie Oliver, Bill Granger, Maggie Beer, Matt Moran, Colin Fassnidge and, of course, the delicious. team. FOLLOW US @deliciousAUS Download our App for Cook Mode & bonus content…

PICK OF THE CROP THE 2016 DELICIOUS . PRODUCE AWARDS, in partnership with Miele, is heating up with Quay and Bennelong chef Peter Gilmore, and Melbourne’s Andrew McConnell joining our prestigious national judging panel including exisiting judges Maggie Beer, Matt Moran, Shannon Bennett, Guillaume Brahimi, Alla Wolf-Tasker and Christine Manfield, who together have unearthed and recognised some of Australia’s best produce over the last decade. “After hosting the Produce Awards at Bennelong last year, I am thrilled to join the national judges for 2016. I’m going to be looking for innovation, thinking outside the box and a commitment to quality,” says Gilmore, the 2015 Maggie Beer award winner for oustanding contribution to Australian food. McConnell, the chef behind renowned award-winning Melbourne restaurants Supernormal, Cutler & Co, Cumulus…

Behind every project is a vision. With Indu, that vision belongs to Dr. Sam Prince, the ambitious owner responsible for the concept behind the unique Sydney CBD restaurant. Having established a successful chain of Mexican eateries, Zambrero, while still at medical school, he followed it up by aiming to revolutionise Mexican dining with his concept restaurants Mejico, first opened in Sydney in 2013. Now, he has his eyes set on India and Sri Lanka. It’s an area he’s passionate about, due both to his Sri Lankan heritage, and his time spent conducting aid work in the region. He credits this last experience with inspiring Indu. “A few doctors and I were working in rural communities in Sri Lanka and India, and the villagers would express their gratitude with these great…

1. Country Road ‘Wyett’ large cube in gold, $30, countryroad.com.au. 2. KitchenAid Platinum Stand Mixer in toffee, $899, kitchenaid.com.au. 3. La Mer ‘Genaissance’ serum $820 for 30ml, cremedelamer.com.au. 4. Dinosaur Designs small resin ball bowl in ‘dark horn’, $66, dinosaurdesigns.com.au. 5. Dinosaur Designs ‘Pebble’ pendant in brass, $130, dinosaurdesigns.com.au. 6. Dinosaur Designs large resin ‘Modern Tribal’ platter in tortoiseshell, $295, dinosaurdesigns.com.au. 7. The Nail Lab nail polish in ‘Rita’ and ‘Foxy’ (left to right), $15, thenaillab.com.au. 8. Uashmama small metallic bag in gold brown, $24, uashmama.com.au. 9. Redecker copper scourer, $15 (set of 2), from The Collector Store, (02) 9699 7740. 10. Quail Ceramics animal face ‘Hare’ egg cup, $25, brewtownnewtown.com. 11. Quail Ceramics ‘Hare’ toast rack, $45, brewtownnewtown.com. 12. Brewtown Newtown ‘Metropolis’ coffee beans, $17 (250g), brewtownnewtown.com. 13. Tom…

JOCK ZONFRILLO IS a hard man to catch. The quick-witted chef, restaurateur, TV host and owner of award-winning Adelaide restaurant Orana finds it difficult to sit still. If he’s not manning the pans, he’s traversing our big brown land to connect with indigenous communities in search of the answer to a question that’s often raised, but mostly swept under the rug. What is truly Australian cuisine? How do the native ingredients endemic to our island home explain our culinary culture within the context of real history – not just the last two centuries? That’s right. Native ingredients. Indeed the large fact of its failure to gain traction in the 80s and 90s was that no one knew what they were doing with things like lemon myrtle, quandongs and Geraldton wax.…

I LOVE GETTING festive, and as with most festive occasions, food plays a huge part. Making mince pies at Christmas, decorating gingerbread houses with the kids – you name it, I’m there. Easter, though, has always been my true favourite. There is nothing quite so comforting and sumptuous as a fresh hot cross bun with lashings of butter. In fact, according to food writer Elizabeth David, in 1592 Queen Elizabeth I restricted London bakeries from making hot cross buns except on Good Friday, Christmas or for burials – declaring they were too special to be eaten on any other day! I wholeheartedly agree. If you have a sourdough starter you can use it to make hot cross buns, but the recipe below is a substitution for those who don’t keep…

The Chokers sure know how to throw a party. Sydney interior designer Caroline Choker and her brothers all have hospitality, and the Mediterranean, in their blood. “Our dad [a food wholesaler and importer] is Lebanese, so we grew up around a table, talking, eating and sharing Mediterranean food. The more, the better,” says Caroline. Her brother Ramzey Choker is co-owner and director of Sydney’s The Grounds of Alexandria, and her company, Acme & Co, designed the space. The Grounds quickly became a part of the fabric of inner-Sydney life when it opened in 2012, and the queues remain. It’s endlessly busy for a reason: it was created to make you feel welcome. On the site of the old Four’N Twenty pies warehouse in Alexandria, the industrial space is a precinct…

“SUPER GREENS AREN’T JUST FOR SMOOTHIES. TURN NOURISHING VEG INTO A RICH, CREAMY SOUP LOADED WITH PLANT-BASED IRON AND VITAMINS A & C, AND WITH AN EXTRA BOOST THANKS TO THE ADDITION OF CHICKPEAS.” SUPER GREENS SOUP WITH TRUFFLE OIL SERVES 6 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, chopped 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, stalks chopped, leaves reserved 1 zucchini, thinly sliced 1 fennel bulb, roughly chopped 2 celery stalks, finely chopped 1 head broccoli, stalk chopped, separated into florets 1 bay leaf 2L (8 cups) vegetable stock 400g can chickpeas, drained 300g baby spinach leaves Juice of 1 lemon Thick Greek-style yoghurt and truffle oil, to serve Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, parsley…

The traveller’s holy grail is finding that last slice of paradise, somewhere untouched, where the local people still live by ancient culture and tradition. The isolated, mountainous region of Ha Giang, in northern Vietnam, is one such place, where you’ll be well-rewarded for stepping off the beaten track away from the frenetic chaos of scooters and crowds that dominate much of Vietnam – and you won’t have to sacrifice good local food for the serenity, either. VILLA WITH A VIEW Pan Hou Village (Lang Giang, Xa Thong Nguyen, Ha Giang) is situated in a remote valley in the Song Chay mountains and is one of the region’s gems, whether you are using it as a base for trekking, or a ‘lost valley’-style retreat where you can skive off and escape…

1. Christian Louboutin ‘Triloubi’ small chain bag, $2215, (02) 8355 5282. 2. Royal Doulton ‘Sommelier Stemware’ flutes, $99.95 (box of 4), royaldoulton.com.au. 3. Laurent-Perrier ‘Alexandra Grande Cuvee Rose 2004’, $399, (02) 9337 1765. 4. Eight And Bob ‘Original’ eau de toilette, $260 (100ml), brewtownnewtown.com. 5. Mont Blanc ‘Meisterstuck Solitaire Blue Hour LeGrand Rollerball’ pen, $1350, montblanc.com. 6. Creme de la Mer ‘The Perfecting Treatment’ complexion treatment, $320 (50ml), cremedelamer.com.au. 7. Yves Saint Laurent blush in ‘Heroine’, $75, davidjones.com.au. 8. Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Volupte Shine lipstick in ‘Rose Bergamasque’, $57, davidjones.com.au. 9. Hourglass ‘Modernist’ eyeshadow palette, $85, mecca.com.au. 10. The Daily Edited double cardholder, $59.95, thedailyedited.com. 11. Bottega Veneta necklace in silver and zirconia stones, $2710, bottegaveneta.com. 12. The Daily Edited leather pouch, $89.95, thedailyedited.com. 13. Established ‘Curtiss’ sunglasses in…

An industrial slum, then a student hot spot, followed by Sydney’s most exciting suburb. That’s a brief history of Chippendale, the tiny precinct tucked between four main roads and Central station, just south of the CBD. For someone who watched (at least the back end of) this development over almost ten years – with nights spent clambering over couches at The Clare and hitting up Purple Sneakers parties in the Abercrombie Hotel – this change has been astounding. Students and creative types took advantage of cheap housing and turned the area into a cultural and creative hub where galleries exhibited local work, restaurants popped up in buildings scheduled for demolition and community gardens covered nature strips in back streets off City Road. But the spectre of the old Carlton United…

“THE MILK IS BODY WARM, THIN YET VELVETY, AND WITH A WONDERFULLY NATURAL, ROUND SWEETNESS.” I’VE ALWAYS BEEN an amateur at sleeping. All too often the kernels of tomorrow’s ‘what ifs’ pop around my head delaying deep sleep. However, once under, it requires a car jack and wafts of frying bacon to lever this slovenly beast from slumber. As a child there was one thing that had me leaping out of bed – the screech of the milk truck coming to a halt and milk bottles clanking en route to the front porch. I’d race my sister, Milly, tripping her if need be, for first dibs of the prized creamy full fat milk in the bottleneck beneath the silver foil lid. Today, I’m standing in the milking shed of cheese…

“The flavours in this vegetarian menu are complex and delicious, so let them star by pairing wines of delicacy, purity and freshness.” Mike Bennie, drinks writer VEGETARIAN GREEN MACHINE Super greens soup with truffle oil, p 107 La Prova Bianco 2015 Quinoa with crispy kale & carrot chips, p 101 Eldridge Estate Jurassic Chardonnay 2013 Vanilla bean & black pepper parfait with grilled papaya, p 122 Chilled Sparrow and Vine In Volo Vermouth 2015 “Lamb infused with rosemary and thyme perfectly complements the light smoke and savoury aromas in pinot noir.” Jamie Marfell, Stoneleigh winemaker LONG LUNCH EASTER ROAST Tomato & vanilla compote, p 122 Stoneleigh Latitude Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Herb-roasted lamb racks, p 60 Stoneleigh Wild Valley Pinot Noir 2015 No-bake chocolate cake, p 76 Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Pinot…

CURED KINGFISH WITH PICKLED GINGER AND CRISPY HOPPER SERVES 6 1 bunch coriander, leaves picked, roots reserved 1 cup (250ml) coconut cream 400g piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced Finely grated zest and juice of 3 limes, plus extra wedges to serve 1/3 cup (80ml) coconut vinegar (from health food stores) 1 tsp coconut sugar 1 small red chilli, seeds removed, chopped 1/2 tsp cumin seeds, toasted 1/2 tsp garam masala 500g sashimi-grade kingfish, cut into 1cm-thick slices 6 Sri Lankan egg hoppers (thin, crispy Sri Lankan crepes used as edible bowls – from Sri Lankan and Indian food stores. Visit: delicious.com.au for Jamie Oliver’s recipe) Place coriander roots, coconut cream and 1/4 cup ginger in a pan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, then remove from heat and set…

I HAVE A CONFESSION: I knew next to nothing about Jason Atherton a year ago. Michelin stars. Nineteen restaurants in five countries, with another two set to open this year. Skills honed by the flaying knives and sharp tongues of Marco Pierre White, Ferran Adria and Gordon Ramsay. Wake up Huck. In the Old Dart his name is not quite as household as Marmite, but with an ever-expanding restaurant empire, he’s knocking on the doors of Ramsay, Stein, Oliver and Blumenthal as a culinary crusader of influence. Atherton is a little different though. When I visit Kensington Street Social, his first restaurant in Australia, Atherton is busy actually cooking in the open kitchen. That may sound odd, but I can count on one hand the chefs with multiple venues who…

THE MERE MENTION of the word chocolate never fails to make me weak at the knees. This makes Easter something I eagerly anticipate every year. A ridiculous amount of chocolate finds its way into my kitchen cupboards as I experiment with interesting chocolate flavour combinations to create treats for my family and friends. After a lot of testing and tasting (yes, someone has to do it), I stumbled upon a winning combination. A dark chocolate brownie with raisins soaked in cinnamon and whisky. The result is so moreish I’ll be lucky if there are any left to give away as gifts. Adding coffee to the mixture gives the brownies such a great depth of flavour, while the whisky, cinnamon and raisins balance the richness of the dark chocolate beautifully. Give…

“PANCAKES ARE A FAVOURITE AROUND THE WORLD, AND FOR GOOD REASON. FROM A SIMPLE BREAKFAST FOR ONE, TO A DINNER PARTY DISH FOR A CROWD, THEY MAKE FOR AN EASY MEAL THAT NEVER FAILS TO EXCITE.” BAKED CREPES WITH RICOTTA AND BROCCOLINI SERVES 6 11/3 cups (200g) ‘00’ flour 2 eggs 300ml milk 1/2 bunch basil, leaves finely chopped 11/2 tbs extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve 150g mozzarella ball 2 /3 cup (50g) finely grated parmesan, plus extra to serve Rocket leaves, to serve RICOTTA & BROCCOLINI FILLING 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 4 garlic cloves, peeled, chopped 2 bunches broccolini, trimmed, chopped 3 large zucchinis, chopped 1/2 bunch basil, leaves picked, stalks finely chopped 1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg Finely grated zest of1/2 lemon 300g…

“EGGS AND BACON, PORK AND FENNEL, SALMON AND DILL. THESE ARE ALL CLASSIC COMBOS FOR ONE REASON: THEY TASTE GREAT. ALL YOU NEED TO WORRY ABOUT IS PAIRING A GLASS OF WINE – NOW THERE’S A MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN.” bacon+egg MISO & CHILLI CARBONARA SERVES 4 21/4 cups (400g) macaroni 250g streaky bacon rashers 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil 1 tbs finely chopped thyme leaves 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tsp semi-dried chilli or dried chilli flakes, plus extra to serve 11/2 tbs miso paste 2 eggs 1/4 cup (60ml) milk 35g grated parmesan, plus extra to serve Micro coriander, to serve Cook pasta in a pan of boiling salted water according to packet instructions. Drain, reserving1/4 cup (60ml) cooking liquid. Meanwhile, place bacon and oil in a…

“IS THERE ANYTHING MORE EVOCATIVE THAN THE SMELL OF HOMEMADE BREAD STRAIGHT FROM THE OVEN? BAKING IS ONE OF THE MORE TECHNICAL FORMS OF COOKING, BUT IT CAN ALSO BE THE MOST REWARDING.” I AM ALWAYS INSPIRED by the fact that you can take a few simple raw ingredients to create a beautiful and delicious product. I’ve been experimenting with baking for several years now and find I’m learning something new each time, but that is all part of the fun. Now I can tell exactly when my yeast has activated properly, or, by a single touch, whether my first rise has been long enough, and with a gentle tap if the bread is cooked through and the crust is perfect. These sweet bakes are perfect for the Easter holidays…

8.00am SALUTE THE SUN Embrace the chilled island vibe and head to The Yoga Shack (Secret Garden Bungalows, Jungutbatu Village), an open-air studio with a quintessential Balinese thatched roof, wafting incense and a selection of daily classes on offer. If downward dog is not your thing, have a dip in the island’s turquoise waters (pictured) or take an early morning snorkel tour out to Manta Point and Crystal Bay, two sites teeming with manta rays, beautiful bright coral and tropical fish. 10:00am ECO WARRIOR As breakfast beckons, walk to nearby Bali Eco Deli (Jalan Raya Jungut Batu, Jungutbatu) for a feel-good fix of fresh juices, smoothies, homemade banana bread and fruit platters. The laidback cafe runs its own recycling program on the island: they don’t give out straws, offer a…

cereal killer How do you like your breakfast bowl – fruity, nutty or in between? Whatever your taste, the Irrewarra All Natural Handmade Granola range has you covered. For more information and serving ideas, visit : irrewarra.com.au. cold off the press Whether you’re into juice cleanses or just an OJ with brekkie kind of person, the Kuvings C7000 Whole Slow Juicer is the juicer for you. Cold-pressed technology means you can enjoy cafe-quality juices at home. Visit: kuvings.net.au. love yourself Pamper your body on the inside and out with Melrose Organic Coconut Oil. It’s not only a great alternative to butter for baking and frying, you can also use it instead of traditional moisturiser to repair dry skin. Visit: melrosehealth.com.au. chef on board SHARE restaurant, curated by Curtis Stone, has…