Indholdsfortegnelse for March 2017 i delicious

LIFE JUST SEEMS TO get faster. Which is both exciting, and not! Food, like everything else, has to keep up, but the meaning of ‘fast food’ has changed vastly. A few decades ago, families ate together, with device-free time to prepare the evening meal. There was less opportunity to be creative and dinner was different from today’s experimental affairs. Meat and three veg in our house in 1984 was a very different-looking plate to Phoebe Wood’s 2017 take on it (p 48). Our annual ‘Fast Food’ issue provides inspiration for the busy cook who wants eating well to be easy and speedy. Given we have access to more and better produce, and understand it needs minimal intervention, this needn’t be complicated. Try thinking (and freezing) ahead with Valli Little’s feature…

WE’RE LAUNCHING OUR Take Two Chefs collaboration series in Sydney with a match-up of two of the biggest talents in Australian cooking. Joining fiery My Kitchen Rules star Colin Fassnidge in the kitchen of his 4Fourteen restaurant is his great mate Darren Robertson, part of the Three Blue Ducks collective that’s cooking up a storm in Sydney and Byron Bay. This is a pairing you definitely don’t want to miss out on. Book a place for this cracking double act and, as well as a meal to remember, you’ll be among the first to check out Fassnidge’s newly renovated Surry Hills fine-diner. Beyond the gorgeous setting, our two chefs will be serving up four amazing courses – Darren is kicking the night off with a dish of raw fish, buttermilk…

CELERY If you can get past its reputation as ‘the dieter’s friend’ (eating celery is said to burn more kilojoules than it contains, according to hopeful slimmers and some contentious studies), crunchy celery has myriad culinary uses. It’s excellent braised and served with duck, or added to soups, stews and stir-fries. Never discard the leaves or pale inner stems – the leaves can be added to salads and the tender stems are a perfect accompaniment to cured meats and hard cheeses. And for a quick snack, nothing beats a crisp stick filled with peanut butter (or cottage cheese, for a lighter option). MUSSELS Affordable, delicious and easy to prepare, mussels have worked hard to shrug off their reputation as ‘the poor man’s oyster’. Almost all mussels sold in Australia are…

THE BEST eating experiences have a funny way of leaving an indelible mark on you. It’s that wonderful fondness of feasts past that are often as much about the moment as the feast itself. I grew up in Sydney’s wild western suburbs where our mullets flowed with the hot breeze while we tiptoed over tarmac to save the soles of our feet. As summer breathed heavily on our backs, the triple treat of Neapolitan ice cream in crisp cones cooled our rosy cheeks. It’s when I fell in love with vanilla ice cream, and my sister and I began the eternal spoon fight for the chocolate and strawberry glory. When I first look at the menu at Otis Dining Hall, the house-made Neapolitan ice cream brings a big smile to…

“GIN AND TONIC IS the world’s best mixed drink and anyone who challenges that idea I will take down in a play fight.” So says Harriet Leigh, of Archie Rose distillery and bar in Sydney. “Gin is a thrilling spirit, able to pick up so much detail from its ingredients, and Australian gin is on the rise,” she adds. Right now, Australian gin couldn’t be in a more exciting place, with the spirit’s kaleidoscopic nature never so apparent. “Australian gin seems to really have blown up,” says Mikey Nicolian, manager of Continental Deli Bar and Bistro in Sydney, famous, among other things, for its canned, pre-mixed gin Mar-tinny. “While it can be hit and miss, it is amazing seeing the rapid increase in quality and diversity,” adds Nicolian. Nicolian is…

“THE PHRASE ‘MEAT AND THREE VEG’ IS LIKE MUSIC TO MY EARS, UNLIKE DURING MY CHILDHOOD YEARS! BACK THEN, THIS STYLE OF COOKING MEANT TRADITION – NOW IT’S ALL ABOUT SEASONAL, NUTRITIOUS BUT ALSO DELICIOUS DINNERS THAT DON’T TAKE HOURS TO PREPARE.” CHORIZO SAUSAGES WITH PUMPKIN & POTATO MASH SERVES 4 400g butternut pumpkin, peeled, chopped 1kg King Edward potatoes, peeled 2 tbs milk 40g unsalted butter 4 fresh chorizo sausages 1 bunch English spinach, trimmed 2 tbs capers in brine, drained, chopped 1 cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped Juice of 1 lemon 1/ 3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil Smoked paprika (pimenton) and micro parsley, to serve Place pumpkin in a microwave-safe bowl and microwave on high for 12 minutes or until tender. (Alternatively, steam for…

IKUEI ARAKANE Ikuei Arakane (Kin San) is the chef behind popular restaurants in Melbourne and Hobart. CRISP GLAZED SALMON WITH TOMATO & WITLOF SALAD SERVES 4 80g Kewpie Mayonnaise 2 tbs wholegrain mustard 1 tbs white (shiro) miso paste 2 tsp mirin 2 tsp soy sauce 4 x 150g salmon fillets (skin on), pin-boned 1/4 cup (35g) plain flour Salt flakes, to scatter 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 2 baby cos lettuce, leaves separated 6 small heirloom tomatoes, sliced 1 witlof (Belgian endive), leaves separated Lemon wedges and micro shiso, to serve Preheat grill to high. Combine Kewpie Mayonnaise, mustard, miso paste, mirin and soy sauce in a bowl. Set aside. Place the salmon on a plate and dust with flour to coat, then scatter with salt flakes. Heat…

THE PINBONE TEAM AREN’T one to settle for too long. After their eponymous Sydney restaurant closed in 2015, chefs Mike Eggert and Jemma Whiteman took up residence at 10 William Street to cook up a pasta frenzy. Now, after some time and deliberation, they’re onto their next project. “We were looking in the country to do a sort of serious regional restaurant. Looking for cafe spaces in more obscure locations. Looking for places to do a hot dog shop. There were all sorts of things we were happy to do, and then this came up,” says Mike, gesturing to the room behind him – plastic chairs, a peach and red paint job, plastic bowls and chopsticks, and a Japanese awning. “This” is Good Luck Pinbone. A (mostly) Chinese restaurant on…

“MAKE THESE AHEAD TO ENJOY FOR A QUICK MEAL OR SNACK – JUST SKIP THE TOPPINGS AND FREEZE COOKED POP TARTS FOR UP TO THREE MONTHS. TO REHEAT, SIMPLY POP THEM IN A TOASTER FOR 3-4 MINUTES UNTIL WARMED THROUGH. EASY!” LUNCH BOX CHICKEN POP TARTS MAKES 10 1 tbs olive oil 3 baby (Dutch) carrots, chopped 1 red onion, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 fresh bay leaves 1 cup (250ml) chicken stock 1 cooked chicken breast, coarsely shredded 3 tsp arrowroot 4 kale leaves, stalks discarded, leaves torn CARROT-TOP PASTRY 1 cup (150g) plain flour 11/2 cups (160g) wholemeal plain flour 250g cold unsalted butter, chopped 2 cups firmly packed baby carrot leaves and stems, chopped For pastry, place all ingredients in a food processor…

“THE ISLAND IS CRAWLING WITH A BEGUILING MIX OF SALTY SAILORS, CHEFS, HOLIDAYMAKERS AND CELEBRITIES.” HAMILTON ISLAND REALLY DOES have it all. As one of the 74 tropical islands in the Whitsunday group, it sits just south of the brilliant white sands of Whitehaven Beach, with proximity to the Great Barrier Reef, palm trees by the dozen, wonderful weather, vibrant bars, and restaurants brimming with great seafood and exotic fruits. For weary families looking for a tropical escape, the direct flights, plethora of pools, bushwalks and slow buggies instead of cars make it one of the country’s best holiday spots. Then, for a privileged few, there’s qualia, which sits in a league of its own. With spacious pavilions positioned across the hillside of the island’s northernmost tip, whale watching from…

“IT’S ABOUT IMPROVING THE STANDARD OF AN ENTIRE INDUSTRY, AND THE BENEFITS ARE IN THE EATING.” I’VE ALWAYS BEEN A DREAMER. Nightmares of little Huck’s past often merged the worlds of cinema classics The Dark Crystal and Tron . Decked out in head-to-toe black Lycra (nothing much has changed) with neon stripes, I’d run through swampy scrub, shooting my laser gun at the ghastly things grabbing at me with outstretched arms. I’d wake in the most horrible sweat. When I land in Katherine, NT, it’s hotter than the devil’s armpit and sweating is top of mind. I glance at the weather app on my phone to read the seven-day forecast. Every day is 34°C, as if they’ve given up predicting. It should more accurately read, “Look mate, it’s bloody hot,…

PHOTO OF THE MONTH #makeitdelicious We set a New Year’s resolution to cook 104 new recipes. From delicious. , here’s Jamie Oliver’s epic chocolate trifle (Dec 16, p 100). #makeitdelicious @molloys_food_challenge party champ My inspirational parents celebrated their 50th wedding anniversary recently. It meant a great deal to me to cater the event, and I was excited to make the ultimate birthday cake (Nov 16, Exclusive Extract, p 57) as their anniversary cake. It was a great success and I would like to thank delicious. for the fantastic recipes and ideas, and for the cake that made my parents’ anniversary that much more special. Kylie Walters treat yo’self I am a proud owner of an annual subscription to delicious. magazine. Having a monthly issue and weekly online updates with new…

FROZEN CARAMEL SLICE SERVES 12 Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. 400g shortbread biscuits 80g unsalted butter, melted, cooled 1 cup (90g) desiccated coconut 1.5L caramel gelato or ice cream, softened 400g jar dulce de leche (from gourmet food stores) 200g dark (70%) chocolate, chopped 300ml thickened cream 1/4 cup (60ml) sunflower oil Grease the base and sides of a 5cm-deep, 20cm x 30cm lamington pan. Line with baking paper, leaving some overhanging. Place shortbread in a food processor and whiz to fine crumbs. Add the butter, coconut and a pinch of salt, and pulse to combine. Press into the base of the prepared pan, using the back of a spoon to smooth the surface. Spread over gelato, then dulce de leche. Smooth the surface, then freeze for 1 hour…

David Lovett is not Italian. Neither are his parents; nor is Beach Byron Bay – perched in front of Clarkes Beach – an Italian restaurant. But through the chef’s fascination with the cuisine, extensive travel around the country, plus over three years helming Uccello in Sydney, his menu shouts Italy. And where it doesn’t, say, in a dish of grilled prawns with crisp curry leaves and butter or in the takeaway fish and chips, he still claims allegiance. “Obviously with my background, it does certainly have an Italian bent, but it’s more about the Italian principles,” says Lovett. “For example, I get tiger prawns from Ballina, butter made by a young guy, Tom, in Ballina as well, and curry leaves that are grown up in the hills here. Those three…

MasterChef winner Elena Duggan’s flavour-packed pulled pork is all about preparing ahead and making the most of classic ingredient pairings. SURE, THIS ISSUE IS all about faster food, but sometimes a speedy midweek meal is about the preparation ahead of time, which can potentially be a little on the slow side. But it’s often the slow processes – the use of secondary cuts of meat, the thinking ahead – that provide the greatest satisfaction, most flavour and smallest hit to the budget. That’s the deal with this pulled pork and slaw recipe. It’s easy to make and keeps well, so cook it on the weekend to fill fuss-free lunch boxes or throw together easy dinners. Pork and fennel is such a classic combo, as is pork and apple. And fennel…

“CRAB TOSTADAS ARE SOMETHING YOU CAN GIVE GUESTS AS SOON AS THEY WALK IN.” “IF YOU PUT IN SOME EFFORT AROUND THE TABLE, I THINK THAT GOES A LONG WAY.” WHEN YOU OWN A fleet of food trucks, it makes sense to use one to feed your friends at a chilled-out picnic, right? So on a day off from satisfying Melbourne’s masses, Taco Truck, All Day Donuts and Beatbox Kitchen owner Raph Rashid and crew kicked back in Brunswick Park to celebrate summer with a feast of Mexican/South American-inspired fast food. “We like to hang around with like-minded people, and we were just out to have a fun, relaxed time,” says Raph. “If people are relaxed, good food will take them to another place, and that gets everything…

VEGIES ON THE grill or barbecue; it’s a hard one. How do the vegetables become heroes when they’re up against the smell of a marinated lamb chop sizzling away, that unmistakable aroma of bacon grilling on the open flame, or the scent then flavour of either prawns, octopus or squid draped over the coals? Well, the key here is that the recipes don’t try to compete; they stand on their own, using the bounty of what this season has to offer. Either as a side or a full meal, they should make you forget about the dilemma. Especially as the charring process tends to bring out a lot of natural sweetness. While overseas last year I also had lots of charred fruits, but my lasting memory is grilled strawberries with…

SUMMER MAY ALMOST BE over for another year, and with it the bounty of glorious summer fruits. But before autumn arrives, there’s one last chance to enjoy juicy, flavourful mango, pineapple, passionfruit, paw paw and more, with these South American-style desserts from Mariana Chaves, the Brazilian-born head pastry chef at Jamie’s Fifteen restaurant in London. “I especially loved the banana cake with coconut,” she says. “The flavours transported me back to my childhood.” As for Jamie, he’s recently been inspired by the fiery passion, exotic ingredients and intense flavours of South American cooking – none more so than Brazil. “For me, Brazilian culture has so much to offer,” he says. “It’s creative, colourful and expressive, and this radiates through their wonderful food.” So whether it’s Mariana’s banana cake, mango pisco…

Those seeking to master the elusive goal of a rewarding work/ life balance should head to the Northern Rivers region of NSW to see it done successfully in the flesh. Forget conjured-up stereotypes of patchouli-scented dreadlocks and surfboard-covered campervans; while aspects of the past do echo (softly), the new Northern Rivers has become a magnet for a collective of visionary creatives, entrepreneurs and moguls in search of a better (and more balanced) way to live. This latest evolutionary cycle of the Byron region retains its wholesome soul, but there’s also something savvy, dynamic and aware about what the region now has to offer, which probably explains why so many city slickers have swapped their briefcases for Birkenstocks and headed for the coast. World-class produce is everywhere, from farmers’ markets and…

“Asian at home is a big part of my cooking repertoire, especially in warmer months for keeping things fast and fresh. This menu, especially the miso pork, is both flavourful and effortless.” Hayley Incoll, creative director FAMILY DINNER Honey chicken wings, p 96 Miso pork with mushrooms, beans and Chinese broccoli, p 56 Roasted pineapple & coconut panna cotta, p 102 “We make approachable, versatile and enjoyable wines, so our lighter, brighter reds match well with vegetarian food, while our skin-contact white is the hero with the main.” Sam Berketa, AlphaBox & Dice head winemaker LIGHT LUNCH Radish salad with curd, p 90 Alpha Box & Dice Tarot Grenache 2016 Homemade pici with quick broccolini sauce, p 22 Alpha Box & Dice Golden Mullet Fury Semillon/Viognier 2014 Vegan blueberry…

CELERY, ANCHOVY, BLACK OLIVE & BRESAOLA ANTIPASTO SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR PART OF AN ANTIPASTI PLATTER Celery is always thought of as a vegetable to be used in stock or as the base of a stew and not so much an ingredient in its own right. Here, we make it the star of the show, along with just a few supporting acts in bresaola, anchovies and olives. Strip away the outer few stalks and keep them for stock, or use them in the grilled mussels dish (recipe follows). 1 seeded baguette, thinly sliced 1/ 4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil 1 tbs white balsamic vinegar 200g thinly sliced bresaola 50g parmesan, thinly shaved using a vegetable peeler 1 bunch celery, outer stalks removed, heart thinly sliced, pale…

WHATEVER HAPPENED TO BRINNER? For a few fleeting moments between 2014 and 2015, eating breakfast for dinner was not only seen as the height of hipster iconoclasm, it was embraced in high-end places, too. Before that time, it had been something that happened in trailer parks and was, quite frankly, “a bit common”, as my mother would say. Sure, you might have occasionally poured cereal down the throats of tired, hungry children after a long drive when you couldn’t be bothered to cook, but you’d never admit it. To do so would be to transgress a whole bible of unwritten lore that specifies some unique rules about breakfast, including that dishes such as eggs Benedict, French toast and ‘the full English’ can only be served at an hour well before…

WATCH THE SALT Statistics show that Australians consume too much sodium. The National Health and Medical Research Council has a suggested dietary target for adults (aged 19 and over) of 1600mg sodium (4g salt) per day and recommends staying below an upper daily intake level of 2300mg (6g salt, or 1 tsp). The latest Australian Health Survey (2011-12) results indicate most of us exceed this, with average daily intake (Australians aged two years and over) being 2404mg. And these figures do not even include salt added in cooking or sprinkled on meals at the table! HOW LOW CAN YOU GO? A good way to reduce overall sodium intake is to focus on a diet of fresh fruit, vegetables, lean meats, fish, whole grains, legumes, nuts, seeds and dairy foods. Also,…

FOR ME, MIDWEEK COOKING is about meals that are full-flavoured but simple to throw together. I get ahead by making bases that can then be stored and adapted into family meals. Curry pastes are one example, and are a great stand-by for casseroles and stir-fries (and curries, of course, where homemade always tastes so much better). Freeze in ice-cube trays, then break up and freeze in zip-lock bags for easy portioning. Having a good tomato sugo on hand is also a godsend, and is always a winner with some homemade pasta. Lately, I have been adding marinara mix from my local fishmonger and turning it into a French-style seafood stew, which is wonderfully rich. It’s an approach that makes life easy when the stresses of work and family leave you…

“WHEN WE GROW UP, WE LOSE A LITTLE OF THE MAGIC OF SWEETS AS WE TEND TO THINK DESSERTS ARE TOO GUILT-LADEN OR TOO DIFFICULT. I SAY BRING BACK THE INDULGENCE WITHOUT THE HARD WORK WITH THESE TOWERING SUNDAES AND ETON MESS MARVELS! PREPARE FOR THE MEMORY OF A BELLY FULL OF QUICK, COLOURFUL AND CREATIVE DESSERTS.” MANGO ETON MESS TRIFLES MAKES 6 INDIVIDUAL TRIFLES 700ml mango juice (we used Dewlands) 2 titanium-strength gelatine leaves Juice of 2 limes 300ml thickened cream 250g sour cream 1/3 cup (40g) pure icing sugar, sifted 100g store-bought meringue nests 2 mangoes, flesh thinly sliced 1/2 cup (75g) chopped macadamias 1/2 cup (45g) desiccated coconut Crumbled freeze-dried mango (optional – from supermarkets), to serve To make mango jelly, place half the mango…

It’s difficult to pinpoint exactly how Champagne secured its hold over the world. Perhaps it was when Louis XV’s celebrated mistress Madame de Pompadour declared it “the only wine in the world that makes every lady beautiful”. Seductive. Smooth. Effervescent. Elegant. The go-to for celebrations of every kind; the drop of choice from movie stars to royalty to Formula One drivers atop the podium. We are captivated by its glamour, its taste of success, but also the history it represents. The story behind Champagne is as compelling as the drink itself. The popular tale of the Benedictine monk Dom Pérignon accidentally discovering bubbles in the 18th century is part of the romance (although not strictly accurate; it was more a new technique of in-the-bottle fermentation). Hence, many head to Champagne’s…

foodie escape The Sunshine Coast is serving up a feast of fun between May 18 and 21, at the Noosa Food and Wine Festival. Showcasing fantastic produce and wines, plus chefs from around Australia, this is one long weekend not to miss. Visit: noosafoodandwine.com.au pork up Whether it’s sausage rolls or pork chops, PorkStar is home to all the latest tips, tricks, videos and inspiration from food industry leaders and chefs. There’s never been a better time to get some pork on your fork. Visit: porkstar.com.au dairy alternative Change up your diet with Australia’s Own Organic milk. In four plant-based varieties – soy, rice, almond and coconut – the possibilities are endless. Each variety is unsweetened, dairy-free and 100% certified organic. Visit: australiasownorganic.com.au added attraction Creamy Kewpie Roasted Sesame dressing…