Indholdsfortegnelse for September 2024 i delicious

Koji & miso sausage rolls, p 78  Yulli’s Brews Karaoke Kingu  Japanese Rice Lager ($7). “Beer and sausage rolls make sense, one in each hand; the dry, lightly bitter lager helps the umami tang of koji and miso get light in the sun.” Broad bean goat’s curd tart, p 51  Yalumba GEN Organic  Chardonnay 2022 ($22) “Chardonnay and goat’s cheese go like bacon and eggs; the tangy cheese matched to the wine’s stone fruits and spice works a treat here.” Passionfruit pie, p 101 Mobius Moreau Apple Pie Liqueur ($65) “Yes, this really tastes like apple pie, with warm baking spices that layer more complexity on this amazing dessert.”…

RECIPE NOTE: “This really shines with native flavours, but if any are tricky to find, more accessible alternatives can do the trick. Try finely shredded makrut lime leaf in place of Geraldton wax; 2 tsp fennel seeds for the anise myrtle; and the zest of 1 lemon in place of the lemon myrtle.” As a proud Bundjalung woman, chef, restaurateur and native food enthusiast, my direction in life is guided by Country and our ancestors. From my earliest memories of harvesting yugari (pipis) and collecting yuli (karkalla) on the beaches of Bundjalung Country alongside my nan, mum and aunties, my future has been shaped by the generosity and wisdom of our elders. Through working in restaurants, eventually opening my own and becoming the first female First Nations recipient of an…

Gather round, pull up a beanbag and let me tell you a story. Once upon a time in Australia, the best restaurants were Mod Oz. It was the cuisine of a country blossoming into a bold new world all its own. The fusion food of Neil Perry and Cheong Liew and Japanese twists on local ingredients by Tetsuya Wakuda would see these chefs recognised as some of the world’s best.Fashion then turned towards the modernism of El Bulli and The Fat Duck, then again towards unique native ingredients. It was fusion of sorts, but this time of local flavours blended with classical techniques. The excitement of this peaked with Noma’s Sydney residency, and the likes of Ben Shewry at Attica and the late Jock Zonfrillo at Orana. It was modern…

There’s a new local in town, and it’s abounding with all that’s rich and rare from our golden soils. The Waratah, in Sydney’s Darlinghurst, pays tribute to the best of Australian flavours, with a focus on native ingredients and quality locally sourced produce, from prime cuts of Margra lamb gently lifted with wattleseed to Sydney rock oysters tinged with rosella mignonette. The drinks menu is similarly provincial, with each season bringing the focus to a different wine region, and seasonal cocktails infused with everything from strawberry gum to Davidson plum. “The Waratah is our love letter to all that makes Australia unique,” says owner Cynthia Litster. “Our public bar on street level is our homage to the warmth and colloquialism of Australian pubs; across both levels there is a golden…

It’s a glorious day in Mudgee at the end of Reconciliation Week when the second annual Saltbush Gathering sits down to lunch at Tinja Farm. The long table looks out over a silvery field of old man saltbush – one of many crops planted here by Yuin man and CEO of the National Indigenous Culinary Institute Nathan Lovett, in his partnership with Kim Currie and David Lowe at their organic and biodynamic farm, home to the acclaimed Lowe Family Wine Co. and Zin House restaurant. The trio connected in 2021 when Lovett was looking for land to expand his native foods business Naway Yila Buradja (Today Brings Tomorrow) into regenerative farming; Saltbush Gathering emerged as a result. “It’s a great way to let people in on this unique collaboration with…

“Take all the things you love about the biscuit and make it a cake! Just so there’s more coconut-scented carbohydrate real estate to sink your teeth into. The frosting is a fluffy version of a royal icing, with freeze-dried raspberries to pink it up. Use rosewater to make it even more exotic, and not the Iced VoVo of your fore-bakers.” It’s not that Natalie Paull doesn’t find savoury food nostalgic – a chicken soup or ragu, “Can comfort like a family recipe for chocolate cake,” she says. “But where sweet pulls ahead is because sweet things are a special effort in the kitchen, a rare treat associated with celebrating a birthday or special moment. And sugar comforts the soul like no other ingredient.” Paull drew on a lifetime of sensory…

DOUBLE DUTY “This model has two baskets, so you can roast meat in one and vegies in the other, make surf and turf, or cook two versions of the same dish – one as spicy as you like and one plain for the kids.”Lucy Nunes, Food Director INTO THE BREW “For coffee lovers looking to replicate cafe-quality beverages at home, the Rivelia stands out for its comprehensive feature set and user-friendly design.”Dominic Smith, Food Editor TOTALLY CHILL “Whether you’re throwing a backyard bash or just want to keep your drinks chilled, this machine churns out ice cubes like nobody’s business.”Phoebe Hird, Studio Assistant + SCAN TO SEE THE VIDEOS AND WATCH HOW WE PUT THESE APPLIANCES TO WORK: delicious.com.au…

How do you define Australian food? It’s easy to claim a love for famous Thai dishes like tom yum or pad kra pao, or admit partiality to Italian cuisine with its fierce adherence to traditions. But closer to home, the borders become a bit fuzzy. The contentious pav, or spag bol or barbecue feel too clichéd to capture the multitudes we contain. It’s a question Matt Preston ponders in this month’s column (p 34), in which he asks if naff ‘Mod Oz’ is giving way to something more nuanced. Perhaps that nuance is the answer. Our food culture can hardly be dismissed as young; Australia’s First Nations people have an understanding of seasonality and sustainability stretching back millennia. We’re offered a taste of this by chefs like Nornie Bero (who…

CURATED BY REBECCA BUTTROSE: @rebecca_buttrose…

Pearl couscous, also known as Israeli or giant couscous, is cooked here in a stock made from the heads and shells of the prawns, making it wonderfully rich yet equally soothing. It’s a symphony of tastes and textures, blending the briny essence of the ocean with the nutty undertones of the couscous. Put the pan in the centre of your dining table, alongside something green (steamed French beans or sauteed chard or spinach), and you’ve got a real celebration. PEARL COUSCOUS WITH PRAWNS AND CLAMS SERVES 4  You’ll need a large frypan with a lid. 400g green prawns (preferably 12 extra-large prawns, but any size will work)½ cup (125ml) extra virgin olive oil5 garlic cloves, roughly chopped, plus 1 extra garlic clove, crushed1 small fennel bulb, finely chopped300g cherry tomatoes2…

Restaurants are a bit like pop stars: icons can reinvent themselves over and over, but always keep their unique identity. Take Aces: this beloved Italian diner owned by the Fantasia family left Adelaide’s Central Market after three decades for a spot outside on Gouger St, but its reinvention honours its legacy.“Aces is a lot different on the outside, but isn’t too far from what it was,” says Tom Tilbury, who recently finished up as culinary director. He created a menu that paid homage to the family pizza joint (and the family meatball recipe): “My first influence for the menu was the classic pasta house Italian vibe, but elevated.” Key to Aces’ new era is, literally, a new outlook. Balcony diners gaze out at Chinatown’s paifang archway, and order snacks and…

SARAH TODD Smoked trout & fresh trout creamy dip (p 80) “When I’m overseas, one of the things I miss the most is fresh seafood from the beautiful tropical Queensland coast. Growing up, I was fortunate to have this in my backyard, and it has always held a special place in my heart.” Sanctuary (Goa, India) @sarahtodd LUKE NGUYEN Beef and lemongrass wrapped in betel leaf (p 80) Botanic, Red Lantern, Fat Noodle (Sydney & Brisbane) Vietnam House Restaurant (Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam) @lukenguyencooks MEG TANAKA PORK & MISO SAUSAGE ROLLS MAKES 16 “First Sunday back home in Melbourne from Tokyo, I made sausage rolls for myself and the kids and their lunch for the coming week. It’s something we miss, and are excited about making. I add some…

Long before destination dining became synonymous with Australia’s food scene, there was Lake House. The legendary Victorian restaurant and hotel turns 40 this August, entering into its fourth decade as one of the country’s defining gourmet experiences. Sitting on the Lake House terrace in dappled sunlight now, watching ducks slide across Lake Daylesford, it’s hard to imagine what came before. When chef Alla and artist Allan Wolf-Tasker found the site in 1979, it was strangled with blackberries and car parts, the now-iconic ponds choked with scum. There wasn’t a single healthy tree; today’s landscape of maples, fluttering silver birch and lush perennials was planted by hand. A gum tree soaring above the pool is the same age as Alla and Allan’s daughter Larissa Wolf-Tasker – a sentinel that has grown…

What makes McLaren Vale special? McLaren Vale is a pocket of Australia that produces incredible food and wine. The natural beauty of the Vale is so unique; surrounded by the hills of Mount Lofty Ranges with views of Gulf St Vincent. Growing up here, I feel connected to McLaren Vale; now I live out of the area I still love coming back Where to stay: McLaren Vale is best experienced somewhere surrounded by vines, hills and sea views. There are some great options for this. Weemilah Luxury Retreat is idyllic. Another great option, close to wineries, is Hotel California Road at Inkwell Wines, which offers modern luxury and the perfect base from which to explore. Whatto do: For nature-based activities, there are endless opportunities, with walks in the Onkaparinga Gorge…

“Best-in- class producers have an eye on the future.”- Gerry Harvey ON A BRILLIANTLY sunny winter’s day at Bondi Beach, surfers crested waves, tourists snapped photos and locals power-walked their way along the promenade. But inside Bondi’s iconic Icebergs Dining Room, serious business was at hand – the National Judging of the 2024 delicious. Harvey Norman Produce Awards. Hosted by culinary director Alex Prichard, 10 of Australia’s leading chefs had gathered to decide who among our most outstanding growers, makers, fishers and farmers should be named the very best in the nation. National Finalists across four categories – Dairy, Earth, Paddock and Sea – had submitted their finest produce for one last round of judging. Farmers had risen extra early to pick peak-condition produce and ship it to Sydney; one…

FROM THE SEA FROM THE DAIRY FROM THE PADDOCK FROM THE EARTH SUSTAINABILITY AWARD PRODUCER OF THE YEAR WINNER: FROM THE DAIRY Long Paddock Cheese, Vic “The craftsmanship and attention to detail is extraordinary.”– Karena Armstrong FINALISTS: NSW – Nimbin Valley Dairy Qld – Tommerup’s Dairy Farm SA – The Dairyman Barossa SA – Woodside Cheese Wrights Tas – Tongola Cheese WA – Dellendale Creamery WINNER: FROM THE EARTH  Malfroy’s Gold, NSW “The best honey in Australia.”– Josh Niland  FINALISTS: NSW – Kootingal Pecan Company Qld – Fruit Forest Farm SA – Choice Mushrooms Tas – Mr Brown & Towns Mushroom Garden Vic – Daniel’s Run Farm Vic – Morning Penni Farm WA – BLOCK 275 WINNER: FROM THE PADDOCK Moorlands Biodynamic Lamb, NSW “Next-level delicious.”– Jo Barrett FINALISTS: Qld…

Follow us on social —@deliciousaus #makeitdelicious WHAT YOU’RE LOVING… 2,118 LIKES, 948 COMMENTS Yes, you’ve had cheesecake. But have you had brown butter and sugar cheesecake? Everyone sure wanted a piece of this stunning creation by pastry chef Carina La Delfa. Find the recipe at delicious.com.au RECIPE: @lumos_bakery__ PHOTO: @bendearnley STYLING: @davidmorgan.co LETTER OF THE MONTH… I am currently stuck at home more than usual this icy Melbourne winter (compliments of a broken pelvis and shoulder), and bored carer hubby trawled through my stash of delicious. magazines. Forever indebted, delicious. team! Yotam’s spiced meatball soup from June’s cover was served up for Sunday’s dinner, and tonight he followed through with July’s chicken chowder. Both were absolute knockouts, with proud hubby even taking pics of his dishes beside the magazine recipe…

Our Digital Editor and dining expert Erina Starkey on what’s hot right now. Au revoir, a la carte. Chefs are now embracing the prix fixe menu, proving you can still have a multi-course meal without having to fork out a fortune. WHAT’S HOT: The father of the prix fixe menu, Auguste Escoffier, dared to dream of a dining experience where we didn’t deliberate over the menu, contemplate the need for extra greens or wonder whether we’d left room for dessert. Instead, he envisioned a set menu, made up of around three courses, and available for a fixed price. WHY: This style of dining has long been associated with white-clothed tables and tiny forks, but in recent times, the set menu has also become popular in less stuffy surrounds. It’s an…

A recent visit to Section28’s brand-new, purpose-built factory A in the picturesque Adelaide Hills town of Woodside filled our hearts with cheesemaker Kym Masters’ infectious passion for the craft of artisan cheesemaking. We blew frosty breath as the morning milk arrived from a local farm, chosen for its quality and excellent herd husbandry. Inside, Masters excitedly guided us through state-of-the-art cheese caves, where large wheels of cheese sat on wooden floor-to-ceiling shelves with flowing humidity chambers. Every stage of production and maturation at Section28 has been considered, including using a pump to transport curds from the vat to the make-table, ensuring the delicate curds stay intact. Genius! The Section28 range is described as ‘Alpine-style cheese’ – a reference to the method of cooked and pressed production. Masters has consciously merged…

Who doesn’t love a pie? That perfect ratio of pastry to hot filling; balance in every bite. I’ve used a few Aussie staples in this recipe – like Vegemite, an icon even older than the Four’N’Twenty pie. Just a spoonful can add full-bodied flavour to any dish. I’ve also added my favourite native spices: saltbush brings saltiness and deep earthiness, and pepperberry adds a richness and a lingering touch of spiciness, with wonderful clove flavours. Rounding off this pie is an impressive game meat: wallaby. This lean cut sits on the milder end, with sweet flavour and a soft finish. Don’t worry if you’re after an old-fashioned pie flavour – wallaby is a good swap for traditional meats, and Worcestershire and stock cubes give you a real taste of old-style…

This dish brings together the heat of Korean chilli paste and the natural sweetness of nashi pear, creating a harmonious balance that is both spicy and refreshing. “Oysters are a timeless delicacy celebrated for their unique flavour. These two techniques showcase the diverse potential of oysters – a contrast in flavours and textures.” Dominic Smith FOLLOW ME: @d0minic_sm1th OYSTERS TWO WAYS: CLASSIC KILPATRICK AND MACADAMIA & LEMON BUTTER CRUMB SERVES 8-12 (AS A STARTER) 4 dozen Pacific oysters, shuckedLemon wedges, to serveRock salt, to serve CLASSIC KILPATRICK 200g slices streaky bacon, cut into matchsticks¼ cup (60ml) each Worcestershire sauce and tomato sauce2½ tbs finely chopped flat-leaf parsley1 tbs lemon juice3 tsp hot sauce (optional), or to taste½ tsp freshly ground black pepper MACADAMIA & LEMON BUTTER CRUMB 250g salted butter,…

“There are so many uses for a great sponge cake. Perfect for afternoon tea, sandwiched with cream and jam, a sponge is also the base for such classics as lamingtons, Swiss rolls and kids’ birthday cakes. There’s a reason the Country Women’s Association takes such pride in their sponges!” Sweet Seasons is offered as a referencefor sweet baking throughout the year. The recipes emulate the rhythms and seasons of our lives, from annual gluts to family celebrations and festive gatherings. We are also reflecting on the role food has played in our lives, sometimes nourishing the soul with comfort, at others offering quick sustenance or something fun to bake with our daughter. The food that we eat has enormous significance on our quality of life, as individuals and in our…

EVERY YEAR, the delicious. Harvey Norman Produce Awards continues to surprise us. Even in its 19th year, the program still manages to unearth emerging producers daring to do things differently, and recognise established producers challenging themselves to reach for ever greater levels of excellence, innovation and sustainability. Their hard work would often go unrecognised and unremarked if not for these awards, so we are eternally grateful for the support of our State and National Judges – who lend us their expertise and time – and our valued long-term partner Harvey Norman, without whom we could not run this program. The boundary-pushing producers that you will discover over the next pages are the cream of the crop, but our heartfelt congratulations also go out to all the skilled producers that made…

THANKS TO OUR STATE JUDGING HOSTS (not pictured): NSW: Jordan Toft, mimi’s; Qld: Adam Wolfers, Honto; SA: Tom Tilbury, Aces Chinatown; Tas: Christian Ryan, Aloft; Vic: Jason Staudt, Stokehouse; and WA: Blaze Young, Nieuw Ruin AND THANKS TO OUR STATE JUDGES (not pictured): Federica Andrisani, Laura Baratto, Rob Cockerill, James Cole Bowen, Clare Falzon, Ben Ing, Cameron Matthews, Jake Nicolson, Melissa Palinkas, Spencer Patrick, Ben Pollard, Kane Pollard, Alex Prichard, Andrew Russell, Christian Ryan, Alanna Sapwell-Stone, Jason Staudt, Louis Tikaram, Tom Tilbury, Jordan Toft, Lilly Trewartha, Simone Watts, Paul Wilson, Adam Wolfers, Phil Wood, Jeff Workman and Blaze Young…

“For the chimichurri, resist the urge to finely chop all the herbs. The leaves quietly perfume the oil, and then explode with flavour when you bite into them.” MATT STONE SMOKED CHRIS BOLTON FISHING WILD BARRAMUNDI RILLETTES SERVES 8 (AS A STARTER) Begin this recipe at least 1 day ahead. Rillettes is ready to be eaten straight away, but the best results will come from leaving it overnight to set. Store in an airtight container in the fridge. You’ll need a 750ml sterilised jar. 4 (200g each) barramundi fillets, skin on, skin lightly scored (we used wild line-caught from Chris Bolton Fishing)1 tbs salt flakes½tsp each black peppercorns, coriander seeds and fennel seeds, toasted, lightly crushed4 sprigs thyme3 bay leaves, roughly torn100g each uncooked rice andbrown sugar2½ tbs black tea…