Indholdsfortegnelse for October/November 2020 i Discover Britain

Like Munro bagging – the competitive activity of climbing peaks above 3,000 feet – castle bagging comes into its own in Scotland. Less strenuous than the former, but far more scholastic, clan rivalries add a further layer of intrigue to many of the country’s already fascinating heritage buildings and landmarks. In particular, its centuries-old cornucopia of castles are tapestries of time, which when unpicked, unravel the secrets and stories of kings and queens, war and peace, and reconciliation and revenge. Be warned: castle bagging can be addictive, especially in Aberdeenshire in the northeast. Here, there are more than 260 castles, stately homes and ruins – more per acre than anywhere else in the UK – earning the area the moniker “Scotland’s Castle Country”. VisitScotland has now established Scotland’s Castle Trail…

There is only one real way to experience the full scope and beauty of the Cotswolds and that is on the open road. While many other places might class “bad transport links” as a disadvantage, it is precisely this lack of easy access that has left this designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty dotted with villages seemingly lost in a wonderful time warp. Though the possibilities for driving are endless, the so-called Romantic Road is a great way to navigate many of the quaintest spots – and at a little over 60 miles, one can either complete the circuit in a day or enjoy a more leisurely jaunt. The Romantic Road begins in the Gloucestershire spa town of Cheltenham, famed for its horse-racing festival and the perfect place to pick…

To frequenters of London’s Belgravia, the name of Thomas Cubitt will doubtless be familiar – albeit for the fact that he shares it with an upmarket pub, from which revellers spill out onto the streets into the shadow of the area’s signature stucco-fronted edifices. The connection is apposite; as a Victorian master builder, Cubitt was heavily involved in the creation of this achingly smart district of the British capital and, indeed, those very houses. Though he may be gratified to know that his name lives on in such a convivial manner, Cubitt was, in fact, much more than an inspirer of good quality watering holes in fancy parts of town. Rather, he was a towering and trailblazing figure on the ever-industrious Victorian landscape. Indeed, Queen Victoria herself, upon learning of…

The story of Bath is believed to have begun some 10,000 years ago, as rainwater first seeped a mile and a half underground. The water then rose up through the earth bringing natural minerals with it, as three natural hot springs developed in the area. Notice quickly spread of the thermal water’s healing powers, which nourished the skin and aided muscular relief – as well as plenty more dubious claims to cures too. Legend has it that the city was founded in 863 BC by Prince Bladud, a leper forced to live in exile from his kingdom. Bathing in the waters soothed his inflamed skin so he established the beginnings of a settlement to celebrate his return. It wasn’t until the arrival of the invading Romans in 43 AD that…

All the answers No one can ever say the readers of Discover Britain aren’t friendly and helpful. I’ve had six responses to my question about the RAF airfield in East Anglia. RAF Coningsby, Old Warden and IWM Duxford were suggested, so Molly and I will try to see them on our planned trip next year. Thanks to everyone who took such an interest in my question. Charles M Cowan, Kentucky, USA Old haunts I really liked the striking cover picture on issue 217. However, on closer inspection, I noticed a man below the column appears to be dematerialising! I trust this wasn’t a promotional photograph for a supernatural tour of London? Neal Chamberlain, via email Well spotted, Neal. We think the photo’s long exposure caused the ghostly figure. We hope…

Four miles west of Yeovil in Somerset lies the village of Montacute. It is quaint and pretty, largely built from caramel-coloured stone, with a population of fewer than 1,000 people. It’s hard to believe that this was once a bustling thoroughfare – and, as such the perfect choice for a wealthy, self-made man to build his dream home. Sir Edward Phelips employed local architect William Arnold to build Montacute House. It was completed in 1601, right on the main road so that as many people as possible would be able to catch a glimpse of this feat of Elizabethan Renaissance architecture with its Gothic influences. The scale of the E-shaped building, as well as its walls of glass, turrets, obelisks and statues of influential figures including King Arthur, remains impressive…

Even after the last Ice Age finally thawed, there was no such thing as the Suffolk Coast. Back then, some 11,000 years ago, Britain didn’t taper gently into the English Channel in a smattering of shingle as it does now; instead it extended into mainland Europe via a stretch of land now known as Doggerland. While it is tempting to mourn that very tangible connection with the rest of the continent, and tidal surges remain an occasional threat in this low-lying area, we can at least thank those environmental shifts with creating one of the most varied and beautiful landscapes in England. The Suffolk Coast is at once dramatic and picturesque, desolate yet comforting, an environment with a fragile future and a rich history. Stretching between the coastal resort of…

MAIDSTONE, KENT Self-confessed “loveliest castle in the world” is home to Churchill gift The confusingly named Leeds Castle – not located in the Yorkshire city, but rather in deepest rural Kent – is home to some of Britain’s unlikeliest attractions. After all, where else could one find a castle-themed crazy golf course and a museum devoted to dog collars? At this time of year, however, it is the 500 acres of gardens and surrounding grounds that will truly hold your attention. The large lake is fed by the River Len, so the entire estate is home to interesting wildlife, from peacocks and kingfisher to great spotted woodpecker. The crowning glory is the moat that surrounds this former royal residence, where one can find the famous Black Swans. They were gifted…

“I highlight the poverty of Jack the Ripper’s victims alongside their inspiring stories of human spirit” Katie Wignall, Blue Badge Tour Guide at Look Up London The Jack the Ripper tours are some of London’s most popular. But I began to feel uncomfortable that the real lives of the women who got murdered were being lost in the high drama and violence of the story. Hallie Rubenhold’s book, The Five, gave me the confidence to start my own tour. I highlight the troubling poverty of Jack the Ripper’s victims alongside their inspiring stories of human spirit. Anna Marie Garthwaite, for example, was in her 40s when she moved to London to set up her silk design business. Amazing women like her thrived there before Jack the Ripper arrived. I grew…

QUIET LONDON The unprecedented events of 2020 have cast the world in a new light. One of the knock-on effects of the lockdown is that many city dwellers have continued to work from home even after restrictions have eased. Touristic hotspots have remained busy, yet other historic, once-bustling parts of central London can be seen almost as never before. One such place is Leadenhall Market. Previously filled throughout the day with lunching city workers or happy hour drinkers, it has briefly been quieter than at almost any time during the market’s 700-year history. For Harry Potter fans, this provides a rare chance to see the wonderful Victorian arcade that doubles as Diagon Alley in the film series. If you’ve been exploring the quieter corners of London recently, we’d love to…

The diary of Samuel Pepys has to some extent eclipsed the story of the man himself. Though he would become a naval administrator, a member of Parliament and a president of The Royal Society, it is his decade-long diary, begun at the age of 26, that is most invaluable to historians. It offers a worm’s-eye view of Restoration London that is utterly unique and typified by his first-person account of the Great Fire of London. For five days, from 2 September 1666, Pepys watched flames rage through his beloved home city from an outpost in All Hallows by the Tower church. His description of the tragedy would come to epitomise his entire life: “We saw the fire as only one entire arch of fire from this to the other side…

1 Southwold Pier If you’re yearning for a little vintage English seaside fun, look no further than Southwold Pier. Originally built in 1900 as a gantry for passengers alighting from steamships en route from London, it was rebuilt in 2001 following storm damage. At 623 feet in length, there is plenty of room for recapturing a little Victorian spirit here. For some old-timey entertainment, visit Tim Hunkin’s Under the Pier Show, an eccentric collection of homemade games and gadgets, or stroll back into town to the Electric Picture Palace, which screens films with a Wurlitzer organ interval. Scale the 19th-century lighthouse for endless views over the coast and then relax afterwards with a drink at the Sole Bay Inn or the Lord Nelson, a seafront pub decked out like a…