Indholdsfortegnelse for Spring 2023 i Fashion Quarterly

In this, our Beauty Issue, we share our favourite products, procedures and industry people across almost 40 beauty-full pages. Want to know what lip liner make-up artist to the stars Kiekie Stanners uses or the locally made foundation Zambesi founder and designer Elisabeth Findlay favours? Turn to ‘Gotta Have It’ on page 128. How about the best inventions of 2023 (‘Finger On The Pulse’, page 138) or the two new treatments we’ve tried and tested (face-sculpting massage on page 136 and lip-contour tattooing on page 141)? We’ve got it all right here. Of course, I’m under no illusion that beauty is only about stuff and things. It’s the feeling you get when you see the first buds of spring blossom to pink and you know warmer weather is coming, the…

Model and filmmaker Lilian Sumner and fashion designer Katy Close have recently launched Vespertine, a sultry collection of blouses with a vintage rock ’n’ roll edge. On a recent Google Meet call, they spoke excitedly about their event at London restaurant The Tent (At the End of the Universe), which is known for its upstairs room that mimics the nights sky. A DJ played while guests sipped Vespertine 75s, a play on the French 75 cocktail, in the downstairs bar. Both women wore blouses from the collection — Sumner an androgynous silk leopard print intended to also be worn by men looking to make a statement, and Close a diaphanous, high-neck georgette one in baby blue, with voluminous sleeves and a floaty pussy bow that she left undone. It was…

I began working with Lancôme six-and-a-half years ago, starting in an artistry role before discovering my passion for all things education. My favourite part of my current role as Australia’s national educator for the brand is that every week is different. I also love the opportunity it gives me to travel and connect with Lancôme’s beauty advisors throughout the country. My mum played a huge role in my love of make-up and skincare. I initially became interested in it through her passion for the creativity that comes along with it — that’s why I always wanted to be a make-up artist. One of my first and favourite memories is of my mum doing my make-up for me. She used the same lipstick on my eyelids, cheeks and lips, which actually…

This is where it all starts,” says Olga Newman, lightly tapping my feet. It’s my third session with the founder of Tāmaki Makaurau/Auckland facial sculpting clinic Face Up, and although we’re supposed to be working on my visage, she’s at the other end of my body, having made her way down while pressing on targeted lymphatic-drainage points. “Your face starts at your feet,” she explains. Later, she proves her point by showing me a diagram depicting the human body’s fascia connective tissues, which surround and attach muscles, organs and everything else, from the back of the heel, up the back of your legs, up your back and neck, and over the top of your forehead. I’d heard a lot about Newman. Influencers have been praising her results and unique sculptural…

Besides bimonthly highlights and the occasional employment of tanning drops, I’ve never committed to making any marked enhancements to my appearance. My mother, a beautiful olive-toned brunette, produced two daughters — one who shared her dark features, and one who did not. My pigment deprivation never concerned me growing up, but as I began to experiment with lipstick, it became increasingly clear to me — and confirmed by the deft hands of a Bobbi Brown make-up artist under the fluorescent lights of a department store — that I have virtually no natural lip line to follow, so I recently began entertaining the idea of lip contouring. A far cry from the lip tattooing of the ’90s and early-2000s, today’s procedures promise a naturally flushed result that lasts 18 to 24…

Dr Iona Weir is just one of those amazing overachievers. After being introduced to the world of science at an early age, the high-flying Kiwi has gone on to a career that’s as jaw-droppingly impressive as it is ripe with potential. Dr Weir gained her PhD from the Cancer Research labs of the University of Auckland through being the first to discover that the fundamental cellular process of apoptosis (programmed cell death) in plants could be reversed. She later went on to apply this to human cancer and immune cells. As she explored the connections between cell signalling, gut health and immunology, she saw how these inner processes could have a remarkable effect on the outside of the body too — on the skin. CELL BIOLOGIST TO SKINCARE CELEBRITY If…

On the bandwagon If we learned anything from watching Gossip Girl, it’s that you can never underestimate the power of a good headband. Having recently made their way back en vogue, they’ve been popping up in some pretty major collections, including that of Christian Dior, who featured them in their FW23 show. As well as adding a pinch of pizzazz your look, they serve a practical purpose as a pulled-together way to pull back your hair when you don’t want to put it right up. Right now, we’re coveting this ‘Prom Queen’ creation ($680) from local label Claudia Li. Meticulously hand-beaded, it’ll make you feel refined day or night. Shower power Finding your perfect combination of products that do everything you need them to is easier said than done, but…

As well as its bags and accessories, Roanne Jacobson’s luxury label Saben is loved for its highly covetable collaborations, like the latest with Blunt umbrellas, a collection sold in Saben’s three beautiful boutiques in Tāmaki Makaurau/Auckland and stocked in several multi-brand stores throughout Aotearoa and Australia. Jacobson celebrated Saben’s 20th anniversary last year, so it’s been a while since it all started in her parents’ garage while she held down a full-time retail sales job at Jane Daniels. Jacobson, who’d completed a degree in fine arts before beginning her retail role, would buy pieces of leather and take them to a seamstress. “I realised early on that I could design, but I couldn’t sew, so I spent my time learning how to move units,” she says. “Never underestimate the value…

It’s a privilege to bring more of an extensive collection of Ligne Roset pieces, including furniture, upholstery, lighting, rugs and accessories to the New Zealand market. The brand was looking to expand its presence in New Zealand with an exclusive Auckland showroom and my partner, managing director Matt Dickson, and I were the successful applicants vying to do just that. Given the company has strong family ties, it’s nice to carry on that tradition with us having a young family ourselves. Ligne Roset’s iconic ‘Togo’ sofa is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, so there’s an amplified level of excitement around this particular design. Two limited-edition fabrics have been made available for the sofa, chair and footstool for a short time only. Reinterpreting a work by artist Heather Chontos, La…

THE PRIZEWINNER The Wren, The Wren ANNE ENRIGHT Described as contemporary meditation on love in all its forms, The Wren, The Wren unpacks a generational saga between a mother and daughter, tracing what we inherit — genetics, trauma, wonder — and what we leave behind. As daughter Nell ventures out to discover the world, she learns how hard her family history is to escape, while her absence leaves her mum Carmel to face a lifetime of turmoil. THE POETIC SHORT STORIES Te Awa o Kupu VAUGHAN RAPATAHANA Te Awa o Kupu presents an exquisite collection of poetry and stories by 80-plus contemporary Māori writers that delves into an array of thought-provoking themes, conveying compassion, curiosity and the full spectrum of human emotion. Along with its companion Ngā Kupu Wero, edited…

Were it not for the breathtaking yet recognisable view of Lake Hāwea to our right, the scenery as we approach The Lindis Group’s Mt Isthmus Villa could be mistaken for the Scottish Highlands. Serrated, snow-capped hills are splattered and slashed by light from the setting sun. A flock of sheep has escaped through an open gate and is nervously running away from our slowly moving car. There’s a sense of remoteness here, of rural isolation, despite being a mere 15 minutes from Wānaka and a couple of kilometres from the nearest town. Although the surroundings lend themselves to rugged outdoor pursuits (all of which can be arranged by the villa’s staff — hiking, trail running, kayaking, fishing), the accommodation is an entirely comfort-driven affair that places the emphasis on relaxation.…

Lochie Stonehouse MAKE-UP ARTIST Little Lochie, for a young, queer boy in Christchurch, you’re so insecure, but so brave. You’re beginning to express yourself through make-up in ways that aren’t conventional but feel right to you. Your first foundation, Maybelline Dream Matte Mousse, is three shades too dark, and the poorly blended line following your jaw can be seen from across the street. Your mother’s kohl eye pencil isn’t working for you either, yet you’re not quite sure why. I’m sorry you weren’t afforded guidance — you’re so headstrong, you probably wouldn’t accept it anyway. Learning to understand beauty doesn’t come with knowledge but from self-acceptance. It’s a long road that begins with trial and error through curiosity and exploration. Stay brave! Your tenacity will set you on the right…

It’s an uncharacteristically sunny winter’s day in Tāmaki Makaurau/Auckland when FQ talks to Rory William Docherty. Amid the chaotic rush that is the lead-up to New Zealand Fashion Week and what will be his first-ever solo show, the designer has graciously reserved an hour of his time to sit down and chat via video link. He dials in from his beautifully curated living room filled with chic furnishings and towering house plants bathed in natural light — an environment that mirrors the attention to detail that pervades his collections. The conversation immediately turns to Fashion Week, which at the time of our interview is a mere six weeks away. “It’s a juggling act,” says Docherty. “We’re in the midst of sampling the collection for Fashion Week while trying to finish…

The concept of motion versus action was introduced to me when I read James Clear’s Atomic Habits. It suggests that when we implement a new habit or phase out an existing one, the steps we take fall into one of these two categories. Although both are necessary, it’s easy to stay in motion without taking any action. For example, when I wrote this article, I researched multiple angles for addressing sustainability in the beauty industry to discern which ones would add the most value to you, the reader. I browsed the internet for local and international brands that use organic ingredients or recyclable packaging or employ ethical practices, and spent time thinking about how to write it all up. This was my motion, and however productive it made me feel,…

WHAT DREAMS MAY COME Late American naturalist and philosopher Henry David Thoreau wrote, “The world is but a canvas to our imagination.” We suggest applying that idea to your hair and make-up, allowing you to play all kinds of parts.…

Embodyme’s belief is simple: true beauty comes from caring for ourselves as a whole. Learning to prioritise yourself, free from guilt, is an absolute necessity to thrive in our modern world. Embodyme seeks to elevate body care to self-care and self-care to daily rituals to empower women to look, feel and be the best version of themselves. It’s more than just body care — it’s a reminder for women to prioritise self-care, reconnect with their body and mind, and enhance their overall wellbeing. We’re all about the body from the neck down. Women love caring for their face but often neglect the rest, yet caring for our body is such a powerful wellbeing opportunity as it provides us with a moment to reset and reconnect, focus our attention inward and…

RAAIE OF SUNSCREEN Late summer 2023 saw the release of a third carefully formulated skincare product by New Zealand brand Raaie — Raaie Sun Milk Drops SPF50+ ($110), a broad-spectrum mineral sunscreen that sinks in effortlessly without leaving the white cast that often comes with mineral sunblocks. Three years of development have resulted in a lightweight, silky-smooth, invisible SPF that protects the skin from sun damage and creates a glowing base for make-up. GOLDEN GLOBES Those with combination and oily skin were finally able to get in on the ampule action in February, when Elizabeth Arden launched its new lightweight ceramide capsules, Elizabeth Arden Advanced Light Ceramide Capsules ($169). The single-use spheres contain just the right amount of liquid gold to strengthen and nourish the skin barrier without feeling too…

I joined Hermès almost 10 years ago now, in March 2014, then on January 1, 2016, I was appointed director of creation and olfactory heritage. Since 1951, a succession of great perfumers have contributed to the Hermès story. I consider myself to be today’s heir of a legacy and values that I’ll pass on tomorrow. For a time, I am one of the facets of this wonderful house, and I’ve enjoyed every single day, every moment and every launch. My [first] encounter with fragrance came through my studies in organic chemistry and my first professional experience at [Swiss fragrance and flavour company] Firmenich. [The company’s master perfumer] Alberto Morillas, whom I saw from my office window, was instrumental in my decision. He asked two young women to smell his trial…

Last year, I absentmindedly felt a breast lump and before I knew it, I was sitting in a room in one of a dozen or so La-Z-Boys with chemotherapy infusing up my arm and seeping into every last bit of tissue, in case some cancer was hiding in there as well. My surgeon had met with me very early on to talk me through the order of business. One of the first things he said was, “You will lose your hair”. He was kindly, and very matter of fact. I’d had a really expensive dye job about a week or two beforehand. After picturing the money going down the drain along with my hair, I have to say that at the time, faced with the prospect of income loss, the…

1 / PLAY YOUR OWN GAME “I got that advice from a successful entrepreneur, and it stuck,” says Feitelberg. “There are many external factors that we can’t control, doubt that creeps in… and this mantra shifts my focus from all that noise back to me and my choices and ideas. This experience is as much an internal process as it is external.” 2 / CREATE A PATHWAY Set a deadline for your ‘leap’, then work backwards to identify the milestones that need to be achieved to meet it. It might not work perfectly, but it creates direction, intent and action. 3 / SECURE THE FINANCES There are no easy answers for how to do this, whether you’re saving, making your main job your side hustle so you can keep earning,…

A TENDER TOUCH Picture the peaceful feel of early spring mornings, when the air is clear and the colours outside are dimly lit and almost nostalgic in their muted beauty. Now imagine bringing that soothing, optimistic energy into your home with a Resene paint scheme that champions nature-inspired shades such as Resene Blondee, Resene Maverick, Resene Tranquil and Resene Tusk. BLANK CANVAS This sartorial scene (left) shows how whites and gentle greys can set the stage for bright flourishes. White with a hint of grey, Resene Sea Fog rolls two into one, which you could pair with a pretty pop like that of Resene Tonys Pink.…

Sitting pretty in the heart of Grasse on the French Riviera in the South of France is a pink monolith. The two-storey building is all but hidden from the road, but as we proceed down the driveway of Lancôme’s Domaine de la Rose estate, we spot it — the newly renovated Rose House. Despite its spectacularly modern appearance, it almost looks as if it’s always been here amid the lush green fields devoted to producing perfume plants. On this Ecocert-certified 10-acre estate, jasmine, iris, tuberose and the region’s iconic Centifolia rose grows, the latter for use in Lancôme’s ultra-luxe Absolue skincare. Today, it’s all on show, and guests handpicked from around the world are wandering around, many in awe of what they’re seeing and taking as many photos and videos…

Model: Matea Atia at 62 Management. Hair and make-up: Rae Sacha.…

In an industry in which accessories often play second fiddle to clothing, there’s a crew of local creatives causing a stir with their burgeoning brands. Well-chosen extras elevate outfits from good to great, so FQ spoke to two Kiwi talents whose accoutrements could be just what your wardrobe’s after. BLOOM BLOOM POW Launching a label was something Viarni Bright had always dreamed of, but her new label Flora ultimately came about due to her desire for a unique accessory to wear to a friend’s wedding. Using hemp cord she braided by hand and glass beads sourced online from a supplier in Turkey, she crafted a belt that would become the blueprint for her brand. Prompted by the interest she received from people at the event, Bright started making belts for…

Slide into spring Start off the season on the right foot with the SS24 collection from local footwear brand Bronwyn. Created for forward-thinking folks leading multifaceted lives, each shoe style expresses a minimalistic aesthetic through timeless and thoughtful design. Saying goodbye to their beloved boots for another year, for spring and summer Bronwyn lets us embrace warmer weather in an assortment of slip-on slides and strappy sandals. Although you can’t go wrong with classic black and tan, our eyes are trained on these hot-right-now pink ‘Dusty’ slides ($340). Make spaces For their third collection of the year, Open Spaces, Silk Laundry has taken a journey into the abstract with a series of unique prints, bold colours and refined silhouettes. Juxtaposing slinkier pieces such as their signature ’90s slips and halter…

We live in a world in which artificial intelligence and machine learning is everywhere. At times, it can be unnerving, but it can also be used to our advantage. Take your skin, for example. So much of what we know about it is based on how we feel and what we see, but what about beneath the surface? Lancôme’s skin-analysis tool Skin Screen helps to answer that question by harnessing cutting-edge technology into a revolutionary beauty-counter experience. Using AI, tri-polar light technology and computer vision algorithms, it measures 12 key clinical skin parameters, including texture, redness, brown spots, visible and clogged pores, wrinkles and fine lines, firmness, hydration and UV effects, as well as three related to the eye area. Combining scientific authority and technological expertise, it allows you to…

Emma Lewisham Co-founder/CEO of Emma Lewisham @emmalewisham “EMMA LEWISHAM SKINCARE IS AT THE CORE OF MY BEAUTY BAG, ALONGSIDE LUXURIOUS MAKE-UP PRODUCTS THAT GIVE ME A POLISHED FINISH.” Liz Hyun Make-up artist @liz_hyun “I CARRY VERSATILE PRODUCTS THAT CAN ACHIEVE MY MAKE-UP LOOK IN THE SHORTEST AMOUNT OF TIME POSSIBLE — AND I’M TALKING FIVE TO 10 MINUTES, TOPS! I GIVE MY SKIN ROUTINE MORE LOVE IN THE PM.” Maggie Hewitt Founder/creative director of Maggie Marilyn @maggiemarilyn “I HATE MY SKIN FEELING WEIGHED DOWN, SO I KEEP PRODUCTS TO A MINIMUM, AND INSTEAD TAKE CARE OF MYSELF HOLISTICALLY, SO SKINCARE AND MAKE-UP CAN BE A GESTURE OF SELF-LOVE, RATHER THAN THE BE ALL AND END ALL.” Kiekie Stanners Make-up artist @kiekies__ “MY EVERYDAY BEAUTY BAG CONTAINS PRODUCTS I CAN APPLY…

It’s renowned for its immaculately crafted and heritage-rich writing instruments, as well as its watches and leathergoods, and Montblanc has also been turning heads with its fragrances, which are as elegant as they are vibrant. Sure, the robust Legend has become a massive hit with men, and the subtle yet confident vibe of Presence and the floral and ethereal Lady Emblem have secured the luxury German brand a firm place in the realm of scent, but it’s the always-on-holiday mood of Signature crafted in 2020 by perfumers Guillaume Flavigny and Natalie Gracia-Cetto that has made Montblanc one to follow closely whenever it announces a new perfume for women. Following the success of Signature, it’s recently done just that, unveiling Signature Absolue. Described as sparkling and radiant, its ingredients makes it…

CHLOE ZARA HAIR The business founded by hairstylist Chloe Zara Munro — to fulfil her dream of creating a clean, effective range focused on building the overall health of the scalp and hair for locks that look and feel amazing — is loved for her cool-girl touch and for being free of parabens, sulphates and silicones. We’re forever obsessed with the Chloe Zara Hair & Body Perfume Oil ($110) which is formulated with botanical ingredients to nourish, protect, seal split ends, reduce frizz and impart a glossy finish. Plus, it smells amazing. ABEL Created by former winemaker Frances Shoemack, this brand came about through Frances’ own search for a genuinely beautiful, all-natural perfume amid a sea of petrochemical-based alternatives that are kind to neither people nor the planet. A decade…

Max out When you think ‘pink’, it’s usually with cheeks and lips in mind, but these days you can wear the hue of the moment just about anywhere. For eyes, we’re into these babies by Mecca Max: the velvety, high-pigment Single Shadow in Flossy ($11) and the creamy matte pastel Zoom Flex Fluid Liquid Shadow in Petal Pink ($25). Lush blush Good news for existing and soon-to-be fans of Armani’s Luminous Silk foundation ($119): the range has expanded to include Armani Luminous Silk Glow blush ($93). Gliding onto your skin with the requisite silky texture, it brings a natural glow to the cheeks in seven shades that span from pink, to coral to red and even beige and plum, meaning all skin tones should be suitably serviced. Sexy minx For…

We’re all feeling it. The cost of everything has gone up and our pay cheques aren’t stretching as far as they used to. It sucks, yet despite money being tight, we still want to look and feel our best. We might not be able to afford as many handbags or holidays as we’d like, but there is one affordable luxury item women globally turn to in order to feel good — lipstick. During the pandemic, lipstick sales, and the beauty industry in general, didn’t do fantastically well. We were all stuck at home in lockdown, and when we did venture out, it was with masks camouflaging our faces. Fast forward to today and the economic environment is in a different place again. Inflation is super high, mortgage rates have doubled…

When lauded Italian ceramist Paola Paronetto was asked to create six special gift boxes for Veuve Clicquot’s signature cuvée, La Grande Dame 2015, she had a clear vision to convey feelings and ideas using her distinctive ‘paper clay’ material (a combination of clay and paper pulp) and shades from her personal palette. The resulting packaging reflects her light, dynamic and peaceful aesthetic, plus she also created a limited-release sculptural work called Giganti Bottiglie, which takes the form of three giant standing bottles that can be ordered in customers’ choice of hues. Here she tells us more about this playful project. I was surprised but happy to be contacted by Veuve Clicquot to champion Madame Clicquot with this beautiful collaboration, reinventing the packaging for their prestige cuvée, La Grande Dame 2015.…

We set out late on a Sunday afternoon, driving off into the sunset, leaving our partners to look after our kids. It was a great escape from the usual bath/book/bed routine, with 24 hours to do whatever we liked without someone nagging at us to do something for them. It was FQ’s commercial director Vanessa Bathfield (aka my work wife) and my first away trip together, and unlike the lengthy to-do lists we face daily at work and home, in this case we had just one goal — to explore Kemureti/Cambridge. Located in the Waikato’s Waipā district, Kemureti/Cambridge is filled with tree-lined streets and heritage buildings, many dating back to the Victorian and Edwardian eras. It’s got charm in spades. When we arrived and took a walk down the main…

If I had to choose the thing I like most about the Range Rover Velar, it’d be its looks. The streamlined silhouette is so sleek and powerful, and that feel follows you into the cabin and behind the steering wheel — you feel sleek, you feel powerful. I took this SUV for a test drive on a trip to Te Matau-a-Māui/Hawke’s Bay and marvelled at its intuitive nature. I cruised around Ahuriri/Napier in electric mode, then as the grid of streets gave way to countryside, I switched to a mix of petrol and electric power. Even when using petrol, the engine was quieter than I could have imagined. This feel follows you into the cabin — you feel sleek, you feel powerful. The Range Rover Velar plug-in hybrid effortlessly plugs…

Our Beauty Issue’s last love letter to spring is a glorious iteration of classic Dior scent J’adore. New fragrance Dior L’Or de J’adore has been created by master perfumer Francis Kurkdjian to be a soft, sensual, smooth variation of the luxurious, feminine original. In the signature amphora bottle, but adorned with a new necklace, it disrupts the floral aspect of its predecessor to shine fresh light on its loveliness, deliberately overdosing and zooming in on its floral bouquet to form an adoring, streamlined, contemporary caress.…