THE MAHAKALI RIVER, ALSO COLLOQUIALLY REFERRED TO AS THE KALI RIVER, DEFINES THE BORDER BETWEEN WESTERN NEPAL AND NORTHERN INDIA. A BROAD, CREAMY-GREEN RIPARIAN GEM, THE RIVER IS NOT ONLY HOME TO A THRIVING POPULATION OF THE PRIZED GAMEFISH GOLDEN MAHSEER, BUT IS ALSO THE FOCUS OF A 1996 TREATY BETWEEN THE TWO COUNTRIES. THE TREATY OUTLINES THE PANCHESHWAR PROJECT, A JOINT INDIA-NEPAL VISION TO CONSTRUCT THE WORLD’S HIGHEST DAM, WHICH WOULD TOWER AT 311 METERS. CONSTRUCTION HAS ALREADY BEGUN, AND WHEN COMPLETE, WILL DISPLACE 30,000 VILLAGERS AND 62 TERRACED FARMING COMMUNITIES IN INDIA ALONE. THESE HAMLETS JOINED A HINDU TEMPLE NEAR THEIR NEW HOME 1,000 FEET UNDERWATER.
The Sarayu River winds through miles of verdant forest, terraced farms, and steep canyon walls, as it courses through India on its…