Indholdsfortegnelse for April 2016 i Getaway

ANTON CRONE Anton has a passion for Africa’s wild places and the solutions available for communities that rely on them. Having grown up in Zimbabwe, he couldn’t resist doing a walking trail from Pafuri into his old home country, where conservationists celebrate Shangaan culture (page 96). TEAGAN CUNNIFFE Teagan wouldn’t have pinned herself as a hiking enthusiast, until the Fish River Canyon changed her perception. Now you’ll find her grimacing in the face of mountains for that perfect photo. See her images of the newly opened Leopard Trail (page 72). ADRIAAN LOUW A Cape Town photographer with a well-stamped passport, Adriaan likes nothing better than being in a strange land surrounded by strange things, food and people. During a visit to Djenne in Mali, he discovered a place where time…

DE HOOP & DREAMS My partner and I enjoy Getaway magazine, and we take turns choosing our next destination from it. In 2013, we were new to Cape Town, and still adjusting when we attended the Cape Getaway Show at Lourensford. It was amazing: we are new to the outdoor lifestyle, however having everything outdoors in one show, and asking questions, looking at the many choices in camping gear, made us feel like experts by the time we left. I found myself daydreaming about the sense of adventure or peace that I attain from any getaway. The national parks make us feel proudly South African, and our goal is to visit as many as we can in the Western Cape. Our last trip was to De Hoop Nature Reserve, en…

Thanda Private Game Reserve’s owners have expanded into the Indian Ocean with this gem of an islet. Not only does Thanda Island share a spot in Tanzania’s crystal waters with whale sharks, but also five of the world’s endangered sea turtles – green, hawksbill, loggerhead, olive ridley and leatherback. It’s situated in the Shungi Mbili Island Reserve, and together with Tanzanian Marine Parks and the NGO Sea Sense, they run marine conservation and education projects. You can hire this exclusive-use, 350-metre wide island surrounded by its own private coral reef (accessed from the beach) with its five-bedroom villa for about R156 000 per night (US$10 000), which includes staff, boat transfers from Mafia Island, activities, all meals and drinks.thandaisland.com GOT R1,5 MILLION TO SPARE? Book a seat on the first-ever…

Satellite Safari is an excellent resource for spotting and learning about the 1000-plus active satellites currently in Earth’s orbit. There’s a globe view that displays each satellite in its current position, a sky view showing each orbit from your specific location, plus plenty of detailed satellite info. The search function allows filtering by satellite type and, most usefully, to show only those which are visible at that exact moment. An active data connection is not required. R29,99 on Android and R39,99 on iOS. ISS Detector doesn’t list nearly the number of space objects as Satellite Safari, but the free version is great for tracking the International Space Station (ISS) and some major communications satellites. A countdown indicates the next pass overhead or you can set a notification alarm. The app…

FNB MpUMAlANGA WINE SHOW, NElSpRUIT 7 – 8 April If you’re driving four hours from Johannesburg to sample wines from a selection of 250, you might as well make a weekend of it. It’s just 70 kilometres from Kruger’s Malelane Gate (find a list of top spots to stay in the area on page 38). The show is directed by the Wine Wizard, Michael Fridjhon, so the choice is bound to be great. DO IT Tickets are R160 pp. CONTACT 011-482-5936, computicket.com SOUTH AFRIcAN cHEESE FESTIVAl, BETWEEN cApE TOWN AND pAARl 30 April – 2 May There’s cheese, so there must be wine. High-fat, high-protein foods balance the taste of tannin in wine so this makes cheese an ideal partner for your drink. This year’s festival celebrates its 15th year…

BUILD THE PERFECT JAFFLE THE CRUST Jaffles call for large, square slices of bread from a fluffy, white loaf. Save your wholegrain good intentions for another time. And spread the butter generously: if the bread is well-buttered, it’s easier to extract the jaffle from the irons and the crust turns crispy and golden. THE FILLING Sliced cheese alone won’t fill the gap, which is why savoury mince makes the best jaffle - it fills the centre cavity without being too saucy. Try leftover bolognese, bobotie mince or chilli con carne. For more jaffle recipes, see getaway.co.za 1. THE ORIGINAL The original is still the winner hands-down. The overhanging lip forms a tight seal and, on closing, cuts off the corners of the bread. As the metal is thinner,…

DRIVER'S LOG Whether it was in Joburg traffic or on the highway, the new Sixth Generation Volkswagen Kombi was smooth, impressively responsive for its size and very quiet. The spacious cockpit, high-grade premium upholstery and convenient storage compartments in the dashboard and doors made being at the helm (while the kids slept) a pleasure. The real treat, is the space. It seats eight (without compromising luggage space) but the bench seats at the back can be folded down flat or even removed without using tools. It also has two sliding doors, which made clambering in and out at each of the viewpoints a breeze for the family. VITAl STATS Engine: 2.0 TDI, 103kW Transmission: 7-speed DSG (6-speed manual also available) Top speed: 172 km/h Fuel consumption (claimed): 8.0 litres /…

GETTING THERE Airlink flies to Manzini from OR Tambo. Return flights are from R3600. flyairlink.com If you’re driving from Johannesburg, take the N17 to the Oshoek Border Post and then the MR3 to Mbabane. From there take the MR3 and then the MR103 to Malkerns and follow signs to House on Fire. NEED TO KNOW South Africans do not require a visa (don’t forget your passport though). It costs R50 per car to cross the border and drivers must have correct vehicle documents, a driver’s licence and passport. Swaziland’s currency, the Swazi Lilangeni (E), is tied to the rand, unfortunately for them. Some places may not have credit-card or debit facilities, so bring enough cash. Be mindful when driving in remote places, as there may be serious mist and there…

NISSAN QASHQAI 1.2 TURBO • 85kW of power and 190Nm of torque. Equivalent to an average 1.6-litre petrol engine without turbo. • Average consumption of 6.2 litres/100km.* • Seats four comfortably for long trips and five for shorter drives. • From R299 900.** NISSAN QASHQAI 1.6 TURBO • 120kW of power and 240Nm of torque. That’s more power than older generation, 2.0-litre engines. • Average consumption of 6.2 litres/100km.* • Seats four comfortably for long trips and five for shorter drives. • From R374 900.** *Quoted fuel consumption may vary depending on driving behaviour, road conditions and non-technical factors. **Prices correct at time of print and subject to change without notice. Contact your nearest Nissan dealer for current prices.…

‘He lay very still. Please let him just be playing dead’ ‘Whatever you do,’ said the guide, ‘don’t touch the baby turtles.’ He turned his torch on each of us in turn, like a suspicious prison guard. He seemed to linger on me longest, as though recognising the kind of reprobate who might make a grab for any small amphibian in the vicinity. ‘Tch,’ I said. He didn’t need to tell me. I’m not some American in Bermuda pants - I know you don’t touch the turtles. Of course I wouldn’t touch the turtles. Behind us the warm seawater ran up the sand and round our ankles. A bright silver moon ran a broken silver streak across a sea shining like a black mirror. We were on a dark tropical…

Tsitsikamma National Park is one of the most important and beautiful sections of coastline we have left. How many of us South Africans haven’t enjoyed the sense of wonder that it evokes as an untouched, beautiful wild place? We would like future generations to enjoy that same feeling. If small liberties are allowed, usually more compromises follow. The coastline is large enough for recreational anglers to enjoy all the other areas open to them, all we ask is that the few marine protected areas left [are managed well and those in charge] continue to do the work entrusted to them and do the right thing. We need to protect and nurture the wildlife left and help it flourish, we all have a part to play.…

1 BUY THIS ECO SURFBOARDS It’s a great irony of wholesome surf lifestyle that the boards are pretty toxic - foam and fibreglass. Now there’s an alternative here in SA. Rolling Wood, a surf and skate store that recently opened in Muizenberg, has boards made of Karoo agave and hemp cloth rather than fibreglass. They’re sealed with tree resin; even the fins are made of wood. And just like organic food, it’s a bit more pricey - a board starts at R7250. The shop also does a really good coffee.wawawave.com 2 LEARN THIS WILDERNESS TRAINING EcoTraining offers a five- or six-day course focusing on wilderness philosophy, tracking, low-impact guiding skills and bush lore. It’s not only for aspirant or experienced guides, but also for nature lovers. Training is done within…

A BRIGHTER NIGHT The 12-volt, 1800-lumen Lumi LED Flood Light is small (just bigger than your hand), robust and weather resistant with housing made of die-cast aluminium and a stainless-steel mounting bracket. It’s easy to rig up to a solar system, plug into a 12-volt car socket or a dual-battery system. When mounted three-metres in the air, it can light up seven square metres and is very easily fitted to vehicles for 4x4 trail lighting, camping or caravanning. It also comes with a lifetime warranty that guarantees 30000 hours of light. R1 499, led-lights.co.za Turn to page 102 to win two Lumi 12-volt LED floodlights…

For a long overseas trip, hard-shell luggage is the way to go. It’s naturally water- and dust-resistant, most have a simple clamshell design (great for separating dirty clothes) and can withstand abuse. It’s also super secure but can often cost an arm and a leg. We think we’ve found the case that holds up. The American Tourister Lock ’n’ Roll suitcase is made from the same stuff as the iconic Pelican Case: shock-resistant polypropylene. It also has a TSA-approved three-digit code lock and instead of a zip it has clips which seal and lock on each of the three opening edges. This means it won’t burst when over-packed and is also less likely to be tampered with. Four wheels make the bag easier on arms and shoulders than a two-wheel…

Friends from Joburg are coming to town. Where do you recommend they stay? The Oyster Box. Because it’s a lot less expensive than buying a ticket to Portofino and it’s prettier and you don’t need a visa. And if you walk around the hotel you’ll discover the most amazing spaces in it and they all just work. What's your favourite? The rooftop bar. You’re looking over the Indian Ocean and the lighthouse; you could quite easily be on the Amalfi Coast. It’s just pristine. People respect your privacy there, too. They’re there when you need them and not there when you don’t want them around. And when you order coffee it’s proper and comes with all the extras, and if you order a beer, it's cold and the glass is…

Back in the 1990s, when I was a student in Cape Town, a West Coast surfing trip offered The Great Escape. A long weekend up to Elands Bay, with boards and beers and babes, was the Holy Grail, especially after year-end exams. For many Cape Town youngsters, E-Bay (Elands Bay) meant the first kiss, the first babalas, the first green tube of eternal stoke. Twenty years later, and still a sucker for surfing in all its forms, I planned a road trip to my West Coast haunts of yore. I phoned the lads, all of them a bit longer in the tooth but still surf devotees, and many were heading north too, as the wind and waves looked to be smoking. Dave suggested Swartriet, Luke said Elands, Philip was going…

GETTING THERE Blyde River Canyon is about 400 kilometres from Johannesburg. The shortest distance is to take the N4 to Belfast, then the R540 to Lydenburg, the R36 towards Ohrigstad and then the R532 to Blyde River Canyon. NEED TO KNOW Driving at night is not advised. There is a lot of mist and sometimes unattended livestock such as cattle or wild animals such as baboons also cross the road. DO THIS Visit Bourke’s Luck Potholes. The walkways are wheelchair friendly but there are parts that are a bit steep. Entrance is R30 per car and R20 pp. 013-750-2136, www.mtpa.co.za Walk the Leopard Trail that starts inside Blyde Canyon, a Forever Resort. It's free for guests staying at the resort. For day visitors it costs R50 pp. 0861-226-966, foreversa.co.za See…

MTN Bushfire is part of the Firefest Route, a festival circuit running through Southern African countries between May and June. Bushfire offers an eclectic, multidimensional programme of film, workshops and talks for artists and plenty of delicious world music. It happens in the House On Fire, which is an artistic dream of huge sculptures, intricate mosaic details, Rumi quotes across the walls and stained glass. The tagline #bringyourfire is a call to action that encourages proactive and individual contributions to social change. The crowd is diverse, Swazis and internationals. Here there are interracial couples, dreadlocked heads, fire spitters and creatures on stilts. There’s traditional dress, worn by ladies in shorts, and impis in loincloths. More than 200 local artists participate in the festival and around 800 children and 70 teachers…

When I was a kid I had one of those atlas globes that you almost never see in children’s playrooms anymore. Mine was the blow-up kind, and before it became a soccer ball, got punctured and thrown away, I’d sit and set it to spin, jabbing down with my finger and wondering if I’d ever visit that country or another one distant day. Chile was hard to put a finger on. Perhaps that’s why it intrigued me the most. I’d spin and jab, and end up in the Pacific. Spin again and again until eventually I’d skewer Santiago, and thus somehow make it certain that one day I’d see it for myself. It took almost 30 years, but last spring I finally made it: an invitation to sample the spoils…

OVERNIGHT WALKS 1 OLIFANTS WILDERNESS TRAIL A three-night wilderness experience at an intimate and rustic bush camp on the banks of the Olifants River. 2 PAFURI CROSS-BORDER TRAIL A once-in-a-lifetime, three-night trail that takes you across northern Kruger’s border into Zimbabwe. DAY WALKS 3 LOWER SABIE Investigate lion spoor and learn about hippo highways at this wildlife hot spot in southern Kruger savannah. 4 PRETORIUSKOP Koppies and valleys abound at Kruger’s oldest rest camp where you can spot sable and brown-headed parrots. 5 SKUKUZA Get away from the traffic at Kruger’s busiest area and peep through thorn thickets at the rising sun and enjoy the flat, easy-walking terrain. 6 CROCODILE BRIDGE Great for day visitors looking for another way to experience South Africa’s famous wildlife park. 7 ORPEN A wonderful…

1 million That’s what most of us know about the Great Migration in the Serengeti: hills, plains and horizons swarming with more than a million wildebeest searching for fresh, sweet grass. Behind them, trailing predators turn the moving spectacle into a high drama. It’s not the full story, though, and contrary to popular belief, it’s not a single, predictable ‘event’. Rather, the migration comprises smaller ‘mega-herds’ that move throughout the year, driven by one thing: rain. And that (as we’re well aware of in South Africa) is a volatile phenomenon. That’s why, in her article, Pippa de Bruyn recommends placing ‘where’ ahead of ‘when’ while planning a trip to the Serengeti. It also means you can save big time by combining off-season rates with SADC discounts. In the May issue…

Light and Desolation. These are the words a friend of mine is having tattooed like a yoke across his collarbones. When he first told me his intentions, I confess to a mental sigh, but now I’m cheering him on. He has passed 50 and, if there's a right time to have a tattoo, in my opinion this is it. As a quinquagenarian you’re able to make a solid assessment of life and what it brings - you’re more likely to choose an apt statement to brand yourself with. My friend is an ardent environmentalist and anti-speciest and sartorialist. His assessment (or my interpretation of it): life is beauty and beast. I do agree with him. Think of the phenomenal innovation that young Dutchman Boyan Slat created to combat plastic pollution…

WHERE? MTN Bushfire Festival is one of Africa’s premier music festivals and it happens in the Malkerns valley, Swaziland, from 27 - 29 May. You’ll get five tickets to the festival, where you'll stay in luxury tents at the Gypsy Outpost Campsite. It’s a glamping site, where luxury tents are already set up, so all you need to bring is your clothes and high spirits. HOW? You'll be travelling in luxury in the brand-new Ford Everest, a spacious and very comfortable drive that can handle tougher roads with ease. It has amazing features such as noise cancellation, intuitive technology such as quick hands-free call, and fantastic performance and power on the road. Fuel to the value of R4 000 is included. THE PRIZE INCLUDES: • Five Golden Lounge tickets. These…

sufi Faouzi skali founded the Fes Festival of world sacred Music 20 years ago as a reaction to the first Gulf war, and invited musicians, religious leaders from all denominations, and thinkers as a counterpoint to the injustice and extremism in the world. This year – its 22nd – the theme is The women who Founded Fes, and there are incredible voices to be heard. This year the festival will include artists from India, Mongolia, Italy, Iran, among others. Below are two quite different, exquisite singers in the line-up. • Christine Salem is from Reunion and sings maloya, rousing music sung by slaves who worked the sugar plantations on this French island. To get a taste of it, search for her on npR Music’s Tiny Desk concerts. npr.com • Hindi…

FASTJET INCREASES JOBURG HARARE FLIGHTS Fastjet increased the frequency of its Joburg to Harare flights by four flights a week. The flights will be phased in on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays and then to each day of the week excluding Saturdays. From R3800 pp return. fastjet.com QATAR LAUNCHES DIRECT FLIGHTS TO MOZAMBIQUE Qatar now has direct flights between Doha, Qatar and Maputo in Mozambique. Cutting out the Joburg stopover reduces the travel time by two hours, so there’s more time for sunbathing. From R13000 pp return. qatarairways.com…

OUR EXPERT SAYS: 'This is game viewing in the horizontal position – lolling in your lounger!' HOW IT WORKS: TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, can we trust them? Pippa, who has reviewed accommodation for 17 years, inspected 33 properties – some rated on TripAdvisor, plus she rooted out new ones. These 16 made her list. Best all-round lodge BUHALA LODGE TripAdvisor No.3 of 7 Speciality Lodging, Malelane This large thatched house-hotel enjoys the best location along the entire Kruger border: perched above a deep, wide and very lush bend of the Crocodile River, with no visible neighbours or fencing, you feel entirely cocooned within the wilderness. In fact, Buhala is fenced into the Kruger, so it seems more like a private…

PEREGRINE SIGNATURE PIE The springbok pie. The house-made pastry is made from butter and local, unbleached, stone-ground flour. From R22,50 each. DRINK WITH IT Locally produced Everson’s cider or cold-pressed apple juice. ALSO BUY THERE Bags bulging with apples during harvest (February to April), Champagne-style cider, Elgin wines and freshly baked seed loaf, ouma brood or mosbolletjies. THE BACKSTORY The farm stall began as a roadside fruit stand in 1964. Chris Burls bought this much-loved pit stop 20 years ago (and tweaked the venison pie recipe) and his son, Justin, is now in charge. Outdoor express hatches housed in containers are the latest addition. WHERE On the N2, Grabouw. 021-848-9011, peregrinefarmstall.co.za MILLY’S OF MACHADO SIGNATURE PIE The trout pie. It’s hot-smoked trout (from the family farm) sealed in a house-made…

TEST CONDITIONS We assessed the multitools on the following: NUMBER OF TOOLS You don’t need the most tools. All you need is more tools than your neighbour. We checked how many utensils each multitool has and noted any stand-out features. SIZE Sorry, gentlemen, size does matter. We measured and weighed each multitool. Because the only thing that should weigh you down when camping is the crushing realisation that you forgot the loo paper. Formalities aside, we started the real test and rated the tools against each other (from 1 – 10) in the following disciplines: SLICING each knife was used to slice open hard plastic packaging (blister packs) known to give consumers ‘wrap rage’. OPENING each tool’s can opener was tested by using it to open a tin of tuna.…

1 sonya wore the Adidas Women’s Climachill T-shirt, awesome because it has little aluminium dots on the inside over the back that chill as you sweat – a godsend (R349). duesouth.co.za 2 There was only one day it bucketted down, but at night so we never tested the. K-Way Women’s Misty Rain Jacket that Teagan packed.it scrunches up into a tiny, lightweight ball and is 100% water- and windproof (R799). capeunionmart.co.za 3 The ground in the Baviaanskloof is rocky – luckily we had this First Ascent Ultra-Lite Sleeping Mat (weighing just 623g). it’s also easily-inflatable (R700). outdoorwarehouse.co.za 4 This Capture PRO Camera Clip is a must for hands-free hiking with a DsLR camera. The device tightens onto any backpack strap, taking the weight of a camera strap off your neck,…

The MTN Bushfire festival takes place from 27 to 29 May 2016 at House on Fire in Malkerns, Swaziland. Here’s what you need to know: TICKETS These are available online, or at the MTN Service Centres in Mbabane and Manzini (Swaziland), and cost from R350 for a day pass for adults and R180 for kids between 6 and 12. A weekend pass costs R700 pp and one including camping is from R990pp. For more options, visit bush-fire.com. NEED TO KNOW Bookings opened in March, and the 20 000 tickets on sale sell out fast. Food and alcohol are allowed in the camping areas but not in the main festival area. Take sunscreen and enough water (there’ll be water at the festival, but Swaziland is experiencing a drought). The nearest place…

GETTING THERE The easiest way to get to Kruger from Gauteng is via Nelspruit. Be sure to opt for the Schoemanskloof turn-off after Machadodorp on the N4 to avoid roadworks. The road via Bushbuck Ridge isn’t great, so drive slowly and watch out for straying cars on the unlined roads. If heading north towards Phalaborwa Gate then head up the N1 and turn off at Polokwane towards Tzaneen. NEED TO KNOW Trained field guides armed with rifles take adults and children over 13 out into the bush (maximum eight people). Morning walks generally last four hours but are easy-going; most are less than four kilometres with a break for snacks (you also score an early-morning game drive to catch nocturnal sightings of animals such as hyena before the walk as…

I can’t remember the first time I went to Melville. I just know I’ve always loved it. I was in my early twenties, studying, discovering and exploring. I was learning about what life was like after the sun had set, the raptures of happy hour (which went hand in hand with building solid relationships with cab drivers), feminism, communicating with boys sans a school uniform, poetry and art and how to dance like no one’s watching. Now, on her 120th anniversary, I’m back in this ‘hippie village’ to be reacquainted. Seated at the foot of Melville Koppies Nature Reserve, Melville was established in 1896 and is cupped by the University of Johannesburg to the right and University of the Witwatersrand to its left. One of the oldest and most vibrant…