Indholdsfortegnelse for November 2018 i Getaway

My mom almost freaked out when I told her that I, a boytjie from Brits, was going to the City of Gold on my own for a day. It was 1995 and we’d heard Joburg was very dangerous. Nevertheless, I took a taxi to Pretoria and then Joburg. I was wide-eyed, taking in all the sights along the Ben Schoeman highway. As we entered the CBD, people started getting off. The question was, where was I going? At the taxi rank I heard someone shouting ‘Sandton, Sandton…’ Well, why not? I asked the driver where I should get off and he said, ‘Relax.’ So I did and took in the passing scenery. The cityscape soon changed and it was obvious I was in Sandton. I walked like I’d been there…

Iganyana Tented Camp HWANGE NATIONAL PARK, ZIMBABWE Darkness had fallen. Three African scops owls were triangulating their territory in the Spooky Forest, but the elephants at the waterhole were still emitting playful squeals. Our little group of hairless apes sat chatting around the crackle and spit of the firepit in the boma. Suddenly, Terry Anders, our host, made a motion to listen. We did. There was a strange rumble coming from the western side of the camp. Then a deep, hollow grunt and a long, low moo. The rumbling and grunting and mooing went on for a long time. ‘That was about 600 buffalo,’ Terry told us wide-eyed townies when it had passed. The dust they’d stirred up hung in the glow of the lanterns. I’d flown up that morning…

FINALIST Eye for an Eye While approaching a ditch in Addo Elephant National Park, I noticed two large buffalo bulls fighting. It was clearly a serious fight. It’s always an exciting scene when two of these massive animals have a full go at each other. Their power and speed is simply unbelievable, and this image shows how easily they can injure each other. I wanted to capture the symmetry and almost-checkmate position of their horns. – By John Vosloo, Sundays River Valley Canon EOS-1D MkIV, Sigma 150-600mm, ISO 1000, f/7.1, 1/250 sec FINALIST Ocean Jewel This image of a basket star was taken at a depth of 19 metres in a new dive site we discovered, pristine and abundant with sea life, in the middle of False Bay off the…

Sibani Lodge is one of only two operators within the 2 000-hectare Mt Savannah Game Reserve, aptly named for its rolling grasslands supporting giraffe, kudu, red hartebeest, impala, sable and zebra. Main Lodge (comprising two deluxe rooms and a suite) and the two neighbouring Royal Cottages are well established, but the new Tented Camp venture had me most excited. Comprising four luxury tents, this is real-deal glamping à la East African safari – large enough to walk around in, furnished with a king-size bed, solar lanterns and couch, and with an en-suite plumbed shower, basin and loo. It’s a secluded location, and the tents share the large thatched ‘boma’: a romantic, candlelit open-plan lounge-dining area with a great fireplace, productive waterhole and savannah views. Wonderful to be in such a…

This 60-hectare wild farm straddles the Crocodile River as it wends its way past tree-lined banks, which see the occasional otter at play. Into several private riverside nooks, owner Lise Essberger has built her hideaway cottages and picnic spots, ideal places to rekindle or ignite romance. She has grown it organically over 20 years, using local materials and talents, and offset the rough and rustic structures with sumptuous Persian rugs and pretty kelims, elegant lamps, original artworks, outdoor beds and double hammocks, baths big enough for two, loads of candles and, always, a private deck with a view. It’s incredibly romantic, with the constant backing track of the fast-flowing river; and Lise and her team perfectly balance pampering with privacy. The restaurant has a great reputation but I highly recommend…

What you need to know • The smoke not only infuses meat with a distinctive flavour but also ‘cooks’ it to tender perfection. • Two energy sources are required: hot coals and moist wood chips, which create prolonged smoke. • Smoking (‘cooking’) time depends on the size of your original fire and how well the lid you use retains the smoke. Domed lids allow the smoke and heat to circulate well. • Flames are not your friend. The coals must be hot enough to sustain heat without creating fire. • Smoked meat needs to be rested afterwards for a fairly long time, to allow the muscle fibres to relax and juices to settle. If you want to serve the meat hot, carve it and pop it back in the smoker for 10 minutes or heat…

1 Seringa Cafe. Set under shady trees in the Vaalwater bushveld, you’ll feel your holiday has started after breakfast here (scrambled eggs and toast from R35). Check out the crafts next door at Black Mamba. 014-161-0643 2 Martin’s Drift border post. You need R210 (P152) to pay for a road permit (there is a card machine) and patience. I waited almost two hours in the queue to pay this fee. Fill up the car at Kwa Nokeng, just over the border. Fuel in Botswana was about R5 per litre less than South Africa. 3 Nata Lodge. An oasis for many road trippers, with a restaurant, pool and bar area. Lesser bushbabies hang out in the trees just after dusk. There are stylish Meru-style tents and more luxurious, spacious chalets on…

1 HONNE-KAMP HONDEKLIPBAAI, NORTHERN CAPE Hondeklipbaai (Dog-Stone Bay) was named after a rocky outcrop that apparently resembles a dog – but probably only after a solid session of Klippies and Coke. Be that as it may, this West Coast hamlet brims with characters and attractions, and has over time achieved legendary status as one of the Northern Cape’s premier seaside holiday destinations. A rather topsy-turvy history has seen the town go through a number of booms and subsequent collapses – copper, crayfish and diamonds – before settling on tourism. At first glance, Hondeklipbaai appears a bit haphazard, the beauty of its 14-kilometre beach not immediately tangible. The West Coast has a rough edge to it, so don’t come here expecting anything fancy. But there is a cappuccino machine at The…

I’d sent this message to my closest friend a few days before flying to the city. The longer I’d sat under our old mango tree at home and researched this concrete jungle, the more daunting it became. Hong Kong comprises more than 260 islands; 40 per cent of it has been set aside as parks and reserves and only a quarter of all land has been developed, but hilly Hong Kong cradles some of the most densely populated spaces on the planet. Thirty years ago Kowloon Walled City, a slum area the size of two-and-a-half rugby fields, was home to a staggering 50 000 people. It was demolished by the government and a park has been created on top of its foundations, but these days the district of Kowloon on…

GETTING THERE From Cape Town it takes under two hours, on the N1 before turning left on to the R43 and R46. On the way back, continue on the R46 (via Riebeek Kasteel) before joining the N7 via the R45 – also about two hours. STAY HERE The Victorian Family Loft is a comfortable and atmospheric self-catering spot (sleeps four). It’s one of several historic buildings on Church Street that comprise Cape Dutch Quarters, Jayson’s hospitality business. From R300 pp. The all-Spode breakfasts (R100 pp) in the dining room of the manor house are wonderful affairs that will take you back a few centuries. 079-051-2059, cdq.co.za The Tulbagh offers four-star rooms with all the mod cons – in a building that dates back to 1859. The restaurant offers some of…

Nick Sadleir Zimbabwe, page 88 Nick has been a cricket and travel writer for more than 10 years. With a knack for making friends the world over, he’s a budding tour guide and expert on shoestring-budget travel. Through combining these two passions, he has visited more than 60 countries and declares Zimbabwe to be his favourite of the lot. Read his story about road tripping across the country post-Mugabe. Helen Walne Nudibranchs, page 18 Wearing nothing but men’s boxers and a tank top, Helen goes freediving almost every day in the chilly waters off Cape Town. While encounters with rays, small sharks, seals and octopuses have her squealing into her snorkel, it is also the tiny creatures in the kelp forests, particularly nudibranchs (sea slugs) with their crazy colours and…

A battle of beasts ‘These cars are awesome – what you dream about as a kid.’ That’s F1 champion Jenson Button talking about the supercars that take part in rallycross. It’s the fastest-growing motorsport in the world, showcasing vehicles that may look familiar (Audi, VW Polo, Peugeot, Hyundai, Ford Fiesta) but which can go from 0 to 100km/h in two seconds (faster than F1 cars). The current world champion, Sweden’s Johan Kristoffersson, is among the 25 drivers who will be zooming around the 1km Killarney Raceway circuit in Cape Town this month at the World Rallycross of South Africa. It’s the final race of this year’s FIA championship and the only one in Africa. Tickets R220–R750 pp. 24–25 November. fiaworldrallycross.com Cycle the city Joburg’s biggest bike race, the Telkom 947…

In the space of a week, I lost my heart to the desolate beauty of the Faroe Islands (pictured above), strolled around the Eiffel Tower and dived to the bottom of the Antarctic Ocean with Javier Bardem. I also tried to race a catamaran from Vancouver to Alaska, but got seasick on day five. And all it cost was R99. My secret? A cunningly folded piece of cardboard, my cell phone and a pair of earphones. Google Cardboard was launched in 2014 as a low-cost platform to inspire interest in virtual reality (VR). Although it’s nowhere near the level of the expensive Oculus Rift or the kit featured in the movie Ready Player One, it’s still surprisingly immersive. Spend a few moments in a Cardboard headset watching a well-made piece…

DJI has made some major changes to its very popular Mavic Pro. These include omnidirectional obstacle avoidance and a 20mp, one-inch sensor (four times bigger than the original sensor). There is also a Hasselblad camera on board with a f/2.8, 28mm lens. The Mavic Pro 2 also shoots 4k video with D-Log (at 10-bit colour depth) and can shoot 120fps at 1080p. R29 995, dronedeals.co.za Top wildlife photographers will gather in Cape Town on 1 December for the eighth Wild Shots photography symposium. The day includes 12 sessions with speakers from seven countries, including Britta Jaschinski from Germany and Staffan Widstrand from Sweden (pictured is his shot of a king eider duck), as well as South Africans Peter and Beverly Pickford, who’ll be talking about their four-year journey…

THIS YEAR’S PRIZE The first prize is worth more than R100 000! The winner and a partner are in for a spectacular trip (and with new Canon photographic gear) to one of Africa’s most photogenic destinations: Madagascar. They will fly to Nosy Be and stay at Sakatia Lodge on Sakatia Island for a quintessential island holiday. Arranged by MadagasCaT Charters & Travel, specialists in all travel to Nosy Be. Flights courtesy of Airlink. THE 2019 GETAWAY GALLERY You can still submit your images! All entries from now on are automatically entered into the 2019 Getaway Gallery Competition – watch this space for details on the prizes. Email your images (about 1MB in size, maximum five per month) with your name and contact details to…

Eight cute cottages, each sleeping two, are dotted in the lush, groomed gardens of this 21-hectare farm and indigenous plant nursery. Each cottage is different but most are open-plan, with white steel-frame cottage-pane windows and French doors that open onto lush gardens filled with birdsong. Six are set up for self-catering; the other two have a microwave, small fridge, and tea/coffee-making facilities (these work well for one-nighters or additional friends or family of guests in the adjoining self-catering cottages). Well managed by warm David Valoyi, the cottages come with generous touches: complimentary charcoal (fires are even prepared on request) and daily top-ups of rusks, filter coffee, fresh farm milk, cream and butter from the resident dairy herd. There’s a tearoom serving great-value breakfasts and light meals if you don’t feel…

I saw a number of wedding specialists to check out their accommodation; most felt pretty cookie-cutter corporate, but Cradle Valley Guest Lodge is a class act. Owner Wilmé van Niekerk has a great eye, mixing vintage with contemporary pieces, and her gardens are as immaculate as her rooms (the venue room is a real wow). The guest lodge is deceptively large – 21 units discreetly scattered throughout the property, every one of them different, including a marvellous bridal suite with several mirror and make-up stations for the bridesmaids. Every room has a seating area and patio, and is entered from the garden; 100 per cent percale linen, coffee/ tea-making facilities, homemade biscuits, a bar fridge that you’re welcome to stock with your own drinks. This is a great choice for…

‘Trust the dust,’ said Planet Baobab guide, SK (otherwise known as Karabo Koontse). ‘Donkeys are Africa’s Ferraris,’ he continued as we bumped past a pair of them along the sandy track that led from Gweta to the Makgadikgadi Pans. The dust, finer than ground cinnamon and as white as ash, billowed up in our wake as we neared our destination for the night – Ntwetwe Pan. There’s an old debate about whether inherited traits or one’s life experiences play the greater role in shaping personality – nature versus nurture. I lived in Botswana’s capital for two years as a toddler and I’m convinced that during that time some Gaborone dust crept into my bloodstream. With eight hours to kill on the first leg of my road trip from Joburg to…

LEZYNE XL CADDY SEATPOST TUBBY BAG R1 095, twowheelstrading.co.za This easily attachable saddle bag (42x17x14cm) is designed to carry lightweight items such as clothes. It has a 7,5L carrying capacity with a maximum load of 5kg, and external drawstrings for holding extra gear. LEZYNE BAR CADDY TUBBY BAG R765, twowheelstrading.co.za  This water-resistant handlebar bag (8x6x11,5cm) holds 7L and has roll-type enclosures on both ends for easy access (it’s where I kept my phone). The velcro mounting system is intuitive and there are external drawstrings for additional storage. MOMSEN GP300 R17 500, momsenbikes.com  On a bikepacking trip in the Overberg (see page 24) the Momsen bikes comfortably outstripped the classic mountain bikes. The reason? These are gravel bikes,…

On a clear morning in early winter I met Johan Loots on Poortjies Beach in Plettenberg Bay. He was tinkering with five kayaks laid out on the beach like a fishing catch, readying them for our two-day river journey. Johan’s scruffy grey hair stuck out from under his old Hunter’s Dry cap. Built like a wrestler from decades of kayaking, he has made a life out of his passion. This former psychologist has established kayak-touring operations across Africa, from Príncipe Island to Mozambique, written three books on sea kayaking and has even designed his own split kayak (in sections for travelling). One of his recent ventures is in northern Spain, now registered as the first official kayak tour on the Camino de Santiago. His experiences there led him to create…

1 Star Ferry operates between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island, with gorgeous city and harbour views both day and night. Hour-long tours from R193 pp. starferry.com.hk  Budget option: the normal Star Ferry service is R5 pp each way (it takes about eight minutes to cross from one side to the other) – and the views are just as good. 2 HK Tramways offers a guided tour onboard a 1920s-style, open-top tram, which is a great way to orientate yourself in central Hong Kong. R175 pp. hktramways.com  Budget option: take a regular tram – there are six routes; it costs R4,80 per ride; a four-day pass is R62. 3 The Peak Tram and Sky Terrace provides the iconic view over Hong Kong. R182…

This month marks the centenary of the end of World War I. The Third Battle of Ypres, or Passchendaele, epitomised the worst horrors of trench warfare. It took place from July to November 1917, a bloody struggle for control of the ridges around Ypres, West Flanders. The walls of the Menin Gate Memorial are engraved with the names of 54 395 Commonwealth soldiers still missing from this and other battles fought around the town. South African names fill whole panels. The memorial plays host to a Last Post ceremony conducted here at 8pm every night for nearly 100 years. If you attend, and your eyes somehow remain dry, you’re stronger than most. The bugles sound the Last Post and an elderly gent calls out: ‘Age shall not weary them, nor…

‘There should be no food envy at my table,’ says Renoir Sardinha, which is why his menu is tapas only, ‘so everyone can have a taste of everything.’ Opened in July, Sprout & Sprocket Eatery is a large, relaxed veranda on a farm in Hekpoort with sweeping views of the Magaliesberg. Renoir’s kitchen opens onto the stoep, which means he gets to interact and chat with his guests while he prepares the food. Before he came here, Renoir had travelled and cooked around the world. It was in Dubai, while working at a restaurant called Zuma, that he fell in love with the idea of shared eating (the way it’s traditionally done in the Middle East). The tapas menu offers variety (at least 10 options, ranging from pâtés and petite…

The idea of bikepacking was an effortless sell to my friends, who are easily seduced by alternative adventures. And so it was that four of us found ourselves on a gravel road in the Overberg, halfway between Stanford and Riviersonderend, trying to figure out how to fit our clothes, food for two days and a five-litre box wine into our bicycle bags. Space turned out to be more limited than expected and we were forced to carry the heavier items in a backpack, the one thing we were warned not to do (on a long ride, a backpack will strain your back and make you top-heavy). The plus side was that we could now argue about who would carry the backpack. Ten minutes into our ride and we were already…

Take it yourself Be prepared, because shooting watersport is all about capturing the optimum moment. EQUIPMENT DLSR Use a fast (f/2.8 if possible) telephoto lens such as a 70-200mm, and add a 2X converter to get a bit more zoom. Or use a longer lens like a 100-400mm, or up to 600mm. You’ll need a monopod or tripod with these heavy lenses for extra stability and to save your arms. COMPACT Use one of the new superzoom cameras on the sports setting, combined with a lightweight tripod. SETTINGS Shooting with a fast shutter speed is a must, both to avoid camera shake from your telephoto lens and to freeze the action. Start from anything above 1/500 sec but upward of around 1/1200 sec for faster action. Aperture can be wide…

An exclusive lodge within the Kruger National Park, Imbali Safari Lodge continues the safari tradition of a bygone era. The 10 000-hectare private Mluwati Concession allows for open 4x4 safaris and walking safaris. Adjoining the Sabi Sands, this area of greater Kruger is one of the best game-viewing regions in Africa. Each suite has exquisite views and a private plunge pool overlooking the Nwatsitswonto riverbed and the plains beyond. Dining is an affair of splendour either in our high-ceilinged dining room or on the teak decks overlooking a busy waterhole. Alternatively, a special evening under the stars in a traditional boma setting is also a great experience. This is African splendour in a wilderness destination. Imbali.com Getaway reader’s offer: 10 per cent off your booking. Contact…

On an elevated site within the 7 000-hectare Cradle Nature Reserve in Kromdraai, rich in ongoing fossil finds and sweeping views across the bush to the distant Magaliesberg, the Cradle is my top lodge pick. It’s exclusive – just 16 thatched, timber bungalows and a honeymoon suite; stylish, with uncluttered, contemporary Afro-chic decor, big comfortable beds, quality linen, and equipped with private decks and all the mod cons: air con, minibar, TV, tea/coffee-making facilities, free Wi-Fi. The natural pool – deep, chemical-free and crystal clear, filtered by lilies – is a great feature. The double-volume restaurant, with glass windows and doors that slide back to provide seamless flow to the outdoor deck, serves good grub along with 180-degree bush views. On offer (at an extra fee) are daily game drives…

Day 1: Joburg to Nata DISTANCE 880km ALLOW 11 hours Leave early. There’s a long drive ahead but it’s possible to get to Nata in a day. Head up the N1 north towards Polokwane and after two hours take the off-ramp to Modimolle. Keep straight on the R33 to Vaalwater. Stop for breakfast at Seringa Cafe (1), then carry on to Lephalale. From here, take the R572 and enter Botswana via Martin’s Drift border post (2). Take a right onto the B151 past Lerala and then turn left towards Tamasane to join the A1 road to Francistown. From here, take the A3 north and drive the remaining two hours to Nata Lodge (3). Aim to arrive by 4pm so you can join the game drive into Nata Bird Sanctuary (4)…

ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER Samantha Reinders’ photography career evolved from a concoction of experiences like riding shotgun in her father’s beloved Land Rover on the dust roads of Southern Africa, exploring the curious hills of Appalachia, or sandwiched between two other photographers in the press pool at the Oval Office. Irrespective of what sparked it, her chosen career has enabled her to chase penguins, fly on Air Force One, hunt with Mongolian Nomads and meet all sorts, from businessmen to homeless people. She has a master’s degree in visual communication from Ohio University, and currently divides her time between South Africa and Asia. HOW SHE GOT THE PHOTOGRAPHS In Varanassi, I spent days on the ghat whiling away the time so people got used to my presence – and I did…

GETTING THERE The trip departs from Poortjies (Keurbooms Lagoon) Beach in Plettenberg Bay, a short way off the N2. Arrive at the beach in your gear, ready to paddle. NEED TO KNOW Food, tents, bedding and all paddling equipment are supplied. A van shuttles overnight bags to the campsite, and a waterproof container goes with you in the kayak to hold your day bag. Pack a windbreaker as it gets chilly on the water, a hat, aquatic shoes/sandals and a water bottle. Johan welcomes beginners and experienced paddlers. This overnight trip can be extended by one night to include ocean paddling; there are also day trips and the option of more upmarket accommodation. Group size is 20 maximum. WHEN TO GO The Camino trip runs from mid-January to the end…

GETTING THERE The drive to Harare from Joburg is 1 100km (13 hours) – it’s best to break it up by sleeping over somewhere (see Stay Here). Vic Falls is 700km from Harare, via Bulawayo and Hwange. Mutare, the gateway to the Eastern Highlands, is 266km from Harare; Kariba Town, where most boats are moored, is 360km. NEED TO KNOW Most ‘highways’ have good, smooth surfaces and very little traffic. A 4x4 is handy if you’re going off-piste and in Harare (which has more menacing potholes than street signs). In general, our middle-aged entry-level C-class sedan handled the roads just fine. Always drive in the daytime where possible – some roads are void of verges and cat’s eyes, and towns often lack street lights, painted lines and functioning traffic lights.…

GETTING THERE Cathay Pacific flies direct from Joburg or Cape Town to Hong Kong, from R10 500 return. The Airport Express to town is R220 return (or for R460 also get three days of unlimited travel in the city). mtr.com.hk WHEN TO GO Summer (June to August) is hot and uncomfortably humid. This is also typhoon season (May to September). Winter (December to February) is dry, cloudy and cool rather than cold. Hong Kong gets super busy at Chinese New Year. GETTING AROUND The MTR (metro) is the quickest, most affordable mode of travel; a day pass costs R120. mtr.com.hk The trams on Hong Kong Island are a cheap way to see this part of the city (R4,80 per trip). The Big Bus hop-on/hop-off sightseeing service is from R100 pp…